Hi, the other tormek vids say to keep the knife holder perpendicular to the horizontal guide rod & as your blade travels to the tip, you simply lift the handle but don't rock the knife to sharpen the tip! What do you think about that technique vs yours?
I ordered mine the day it released! For me it was a game changer, especially because i like to do controlled angle honing. It makes going from the wheel to the hone seamless and I have been getting results around 80 grams consistently!
I just tested that the other day because I have the front vertical mount and wow it was great using the hone when the angle is perfect 👍 I agree will be a game changer for many Tormek Users
@@ALXSHARPEN same for me I set the angle and set the angle for the front for the honing then just sharpen no stopping on the T4 at low angles its had to set the angle a little bit though
Thats one reason why I generally like to do a minimum of a few reproofing stokes now since the new angle setter came out I have not been using the sharpie method much. I generally set the angle I want then do 80-600-1000 gritt on my CBN wheels the 80 stokes I monitor with my digital scope when it looks good I then go do my 600 and 1000 and I am done and in general it take me around 5-6 min a knife. It's been great
Great review 🙂 I have a question: I noticed that you have more of a swinging movement when you reach the tip of the knife. I have seen on other videos that the knife should be lifted outward from the wheel in a radial direction relative to the wheel. What is your take on this?
Not sure what you mean by swing I lift the handle up if you swing out you will have a wider bevel at the tip you can tip out a little but it should be very small amount
@@ALXSHARPEN Yes, that is exactly what I thought, because I lift straight up as well to avoid the wider bevel… I must be the camera angle that tricks me 🙂
@@canasta84 probably I often get people asking if I'm stropping edge leading because it looks that way on the camera when its running edge trailing but the frame rate of the camera make it look opposite for some reason so they send me things saying don't you say alway edge trail for stropping and I say yes and the say it look like it going edge leading and i say trust me it's not it's just the camera angle and frame rate
@@canasta84 I was watching for that too, and Paul was spot on. One of the Tormek videos references a temporary perpendicular drawn line on a static stone. By keeping the entire blade edge from crossing over is the practice goal, and then becomes an imaginary line when dynamic. Paul kept the blade from crossing imaginary line.
Great build quality, better than I expected. You do need to set the protrusion again when moving to a larger or smaller diameter wheel though. Your water stone must be about the same size as your other wheels, or you don’t mind the slightly steeper angle. This is not optional when going from grinding to the strop wheel (amazing results!). Thank you for the great vids!
That's not correct I refer you to Tormek Training video below you can go to time 9:40 and you will see that I am correct. You do not need to set protrusion on every wheel it doesn't change. It would only change if you removed it from the jig. ruclips.net/user/live5T4wtZSi4rE?si=bN_QtXRgpU3A-4Of go to time 9:40
Thank you Paul! Thanks to axman in Canada for getting us a few of these after SS sold out. Even a day quicker shipping to SoCal, than from the cheese state😎
Great to hear this is going to help me speed things up for my Tormeks process that’s for sure I love now have a way to get such precision settings on them👍
It´s amazing, I have 2 tormek side by site like you, also the twice as sharp with huge vacuum hose, same test tool and also the same, or very similar, microscope. What are the odds?
You can measure the diameters of the two waterstones, divide by two so that you now have the radius. subtract the Japanese water stone from your other water stone and that is your offset for the height change of your holder. You can verify that you are good by putting the angle jig on and verifying you are still touching at three points on the Japanese waterstone setup.
Nice demonstration. Not one but you have three Tormek machines. I only have one and love it. My friends think I am extreme, wait till I tell them about you. Ha.
Thanks for informative video. I'm guessing that this jig also negates having to check the diameter of consumable wheels before using the WM 200-I personally find that a PITA. Definitely putting the KS 123 on my wish list. BTW, noticing the Canadian flag in the background, is that a shout out to your Cdn subscribers or is there another connection? Cheers, Kire
My Father and Grandfather were born in Canada my Grandmom was from France and married my Grandfather moved to Canada after WWII had my father. His dad passed away when he was young so my Grandmother moved to Fall River ,MA because we had relatives there too. My father and Grandmom became American Citizens, but my Dad always had a love for Canada, Hockey and had many cousins, aunts and uncles in Matane Canada
Paul when you went to the Japanese stone you failed to set the distance of the knife blade as required. If the stone is a different diameter to the first stones you will not be getting a true 15° angle. Is that correct.?
I will check but I want to say no once you set the blade measurement that doesn’t change you just adjust for angle on all the following stones. It shouldn’t change and should only need to be set once but I will check it to be sure I am correct.
I checked and I did it correctly once you set the protrusion of the knife on your first stone you don’t need to do it again it just the measurement of the jig to the apex that doesn’t change and also why it make changing wheels fast.
@@ALXSHARPEN That is only if the stones are the same size. The diamond stones are the same size so no need to set the protrusion again, but it does need to be set went moving to the 4000 grit Japanese water stone
@@ALXSHARPENI took your advice on the TWS system by the way. Spent 3k today on the Ookami Gold plus the CBN 350. The other 2k was all on new Tormek equipment and some CBN dowels.
@@PatrickBesanson It's a great machine I use two of them one for all my household scissors and garden gear and one for salon shears just be sure to watch all the training videos that it came with it. They have lots of great info on Salon shears and how to do them properly. They have a very specific way to remove the burr and polish the convex edge.
@@ALXSHARPEN Noted. Now I have to find a DVD player in my closet full of old A/V equipment🤪. I have seen some of TAS videos on their RUclips page. Not sure if those DVD’s have been duplicated to RUclips yet.
I don't agree I used it today on a swiss army knife did excellent job unless you mean even smaller like a pen knife have not tried anything that small but see no reason why it wont work great
Hi, the other tormek vids say to keep the knife holder perpendicular to the horizontal guide rod & as your blade travels to the tip, you simply lift the handle but don't rock the knife to sharpen the tip! What do you think about that technique vs yours?
I ordered mine the day it released! For me it was a game changer, especially because i like to do controlled angle honing. It makes going from the wheel to the hone seamless and I have been getting results around 80 grams consistently!
I just tested that the other day because I have the front vertical mount and wow it was great using the hone when the angle is perfect 👍 I agree will be a game changer for many Tormek Users
@@ALXSHARPEN same for me I set the angle and set the angle for the front for the honing then just sharpen no stopping on the T4 at low angles its had to set the angle a little bit though
hey Paul whats the solutions your using ??? as in the australia the tormek solutions is very expensive in australia.look forward to your reply. thanks
They finally did it. Thanks Tormek
When they have them amazom or sharpening supplies.com currently both are still out
The sharpie method works as long as your bevel is the same on each side. However sometimes from the factory they are not the same.
Thats one reason why I generally like to do a minimum of a few reproofing stokes now since the new angle setter came out I have not been using the sharpie method much. I generally set the angle I want then do 80-600-1000 gritt on my CBN wheels the 80 stokes I monitor with my digital scope when it looks good I then go do my 600 and 1000 and I am done and in general it take me around 5-6 min a knife. It's been great
Great review 🙂 I have a question: I noticed that you have more of a swinging movement when you reach the tip of the knife. I have seen on other videos that the knife should be lifted outward from the wheel in a radial direction relative to the wheel. What is your take on this?
I have that question too.
Not sure what you mean by swing I lift the handle up if you swing out you will have a wider bevel at the tip you can tip out a little but it should be very small amount
@@ALXSHARPEN Yes, that is exactly what I thought, because I lift straight up as well to avoid the wider bevel… I must be the camera angle that tricks me 🙂
@@canasta84 probably I often get people asking if I'm stropping edge leading because it looks that way on the camera when its running edge trailing but the frame rate of the camera make it look opposite for some reason so they send me things saying don't you say alway edge trail for stropping and I say yes and the say it look like it going edge leading and i say trust me it's not it's just the camera angle and frame rate
@@canasta84 I was watching for that too, and Paul was spot on. One of the Tormek videos references a temporary perpendicular drawn line on a static stone. By keeping the entire blade edge from crossing over is the practice goal, and then becomes an imaginary line when dynamic. Paul kept the blade from crossing imaginary line.
Nice! Waiting to get one. Now would that fit on the Wen? Also what about on a belt sander laying down for example the buck tool 2 by 42?
Great build quality, better than I expected. You do need to set the protrusion again when moving to a larger or smaller diameter wheel though. Your water stone must be about the same size as your other wheels, or you don’t mind the slightly steeper angle. This is not optional when going from grinding to the strop wheel (amazing results!).
Thank you for the great vids!
That's not correct I refer you to Tormek Training video below you can go to time 9:40 and you will see that I am correct. You do not need to set protrusion on every wheel it doesn't change. It would only change if you removed it from the jig. ruclips.net/user/live5T4wtZSi4rE?si=bN_QtXRgpU3A-4Of go to time 9:40
Thank you Paul!
Thanks to axman in Canada for getting us a few of these after SS sold out. Even a day quicker shipping to SoCal, than from the cheese state😎
Will this work with the FVB for the Tormek t8?
Received my angle setter KS-123 last week and loving it.
Great to hear this is going to help me speed things up for my Tormeks process that’s for sure I love now have a way to get such precision settings on them👍
Thanks for the video. Perfect timing. Just received my new angle setter.
Let me know your thoughts on it
It´s amazing, I have 2 tormek side by site like you, also the twice as sharp with huge vacuum hose, same test tool and also the same, or very similar, microscope. What are the odds?
15° on the jig will be 15° on the knife? Or do we need or halve something? Manual dies not seem to be very clear.
No need to half anything if you want 15 degrees set it to 15
You can measure the diameters of the two waterstones, divide by two so that you now have the radius. subtract the Japanese water stone from your other water stone and that is your offset for the height change of your holder. You can verify that you are good by putting the angle jig on and verifying you are still touching at three points on the Japanese waterstone setup.
I’ll buy your old WM-200. I love ‘em! Super fast and work perfectly.
No i still need it for wood tools it’s great for chisels
Nice demonstration. Not one but you have three Tormek machines. I only have one and love it. My friends think I am extreme, wait till I tell them about you. Ha.
Just got it today! Nice! Only thing is what if you changed knives? Will that change the angle as well? Oh and it worked in the WEN snapped in and all.
Thanks. Just received mine.
I just received mine. The bevels are still uneven. Have you addressed this somewhere?
Very Informative. Thank you!
Thank you Paul!
Thank you once again Paul
Oh thats handy, didnt even know it existed
Yes it’s nice to see them recognize that this is a great knife sharpener but we needed a better angle setter for awhile and now we have it 👍
Thanks for informative video. I'm guessing that this jig also negates having to check the diameter of consumable wheels before using the WM 200-I personally find that a PITA. Definitely putting the KS 123 on my wish list. BTW, noticing the Canadian flag in the background, is that a shout out to your Cdn subscribers or is there another connection? Cheers, Kire
My Father and Grandfather were born in Canada my Grandmom was from France and married my Grandfather moved to Canada after WWII had my father. His dad passed away when he was young so my Grandmother moved to Fall River ,MA because we had relatives there too. My father and Grandmom became American Citizens, but my Dad always had a love for Canada, Hockey and had many cousins, aunts and uncles in Matane Canada
Good stuff.
Thanks for sharing.
👍👍👏👏🇺🇲
Very nice👍
Thanks a lot
Paul when you went to the Japanese stone you failed to set the distance of the knife blade as required. If the stone is a different diameter to the first stones you will not be getting a true 15° angle. Is that correct.?
I will check but I want to say no once you set the blade measurement that doesn’t change you just adjust for angle on all the following stones. It shouldn’t change and should only need to be set once but I will check it to be sure I am correct.
I checked and I did it correctly once you set the protrusion of the knife on your first stone you don’t need to do it again it just the measurement of the jig to the apex that doesn’t change and also why it make changing wheels fast.
@@ALXSHARPEN That is only if the stones are the same size. The diamond stones are the same size so no need to set the protrusion again, but it does need to be set went moving to the 4000 grit Japanese water stone
I guessing you’re not going to sell your Japanese stone anytime soon now? I’ve been meaning to email you about that.
No sorry not yet the new angle setter got in a last minute stay from the Governor 🪦💀
@@ALXSHARPENI took your advice on the TWS system by the way. Spent 3k today on the Ookami Gold plus the CBN 350. The other 2k was all on new Tormek equipment and some CBN dowels.
@@PatrickBesanson It's a great machine I use two of them one for all my household scissors and garden gear and one for salon shears just be sure to watch all the training videos that it came with it. They have lots of great info on Salon shears and how to do them properly. They have a very specific way to remove the burr and polish the convex edge.
@@ALXSHARPEN Noted. Now I have to find a DVD player in my closet full of old
A/V equipment🤪. I have seen some of TAS videos on their RUclips page. Not sure if those DVD’s have been duplicated to RUclips yet.
Difficult to use on smaller knives
I don't agree I used it today on a swiss army knife did excellent job unless you mean even smaller like a pen knife have not tried anything that small but see no reason why it wont work great
wunnerful