To each their own, but I removed the "lip stop" with the 2 small screws. I line up the cutting edges to be vertical and parallel to the wheel's side, by eye. It's one less "figity" adjustment I need to make. The bit rolls easily in the "V" groove to line it up. I've sharpened hundreds of bits this way on my old Craftsman and a newer identical version off Amazon, my spare! I do a lot of drilling in metal, even stainless steel, are real bugger to drill. I just finished drilling two 1" diameter holes in 1/4" mild steel plate. I started with a 1/4" pilot, then a 1/2", next a 3/4" and finally the 1" diameter.
I have one of these. The front anti-rotation clip retained with 2 screws is as I understand, meant to orient the indexing of the flutes to create the chisel point (this alignment may be shown in the tool instructions, google for a .pdf file on the tool if needed)...On your demo, the clip is protruding too high for the size bit. It should just engage the flute just enough so that the trailing edge of the flutes are plumb vertical. to each other. The clamp is what stops rotation, not the edge guide. Also, progressive light nibbling on the grind prevents overheating temper loss. I spray water / dishsoap mix on the wheel to keep bit cool, and/or spray tip during grind. Its a great tool, thanks for the video...many are perplexed by the appearance of the fixture, but you did explain the steps quite well....Thx! (tool is made by General, No. 825)
If the "lay" of the grinding marks is parallel to the cutting edges as you are showing you will have a very weak cutting edge. Particularly you will experience chipping if you drill any hard or tough metal. The base of that tool needs to be tilted to one half of the grinding angle to get your clearances to come out like a factory bit. And HSS drills, especially with Cobalt, are nearly impervious to loss of hardness because of being hot from grinding. And please, wear a respirator. The grinding dust from tool steels and carbide will literally wreck your lungs.
These sharpeners have been around for decades under hundreds of different brand names. They’ve been made in Japan, Taiwan and China but I picked up an original made in the USA one recently and I’ll be hanging onto that one. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
thanks . same as craftsman 6677 or general 825 . after watching some vids , and some trial and error , i'm well pleased with mine . i advise to install a locknut (the thread size on my general 825 is 1/4 coarse) on end of threaded rod , to avoid losing the lower thumb wheel . the indicator can , in some instances , hold the bit from laying (lying?) in the trough correctly . adjust it to just barely touch the bit , and tighten the bit clamp securely .
Thanks for the Demonstration. I purchased one of the Shop Fox drill bit sharpeners quite awhile back and never got around to using it yet. You have a good understanding of its operations. I am going to use it for the first time tomorrow morning. I have everything set up. It seemed like the perfect stable invention when I looked at it online.
My bit sharpener is exactly like yours, except it’s an antique Craftsman. It belonged to my great grandfather back in the late 1930s, but it still works very well. Still using his Craftsman drill press as well, though I did need to restore it.
Grinding on the side of a brittle wheel can cause it to break up and hurl fragments at very high speed. You should get a CBN wheel if you want to grind on the side. Bench grinders look harmless but they are extremely dangerous.
Maybe you can tell me too, please, how you adjust the 2 screws in front and with the piece of thin sheet from them lifted up . I wanted to send you a picture, but I don't know how
Hi great demo! I just bought one of these from a thrift shop for £4! Mine is new but without the box so there were no instructions etc. Your demo explained it's use very well 👍
It seems like this product works well but I have two concerns. First, grinding on the side of the grinding wheel seems like a safety issue unless the wheel is made for it, secondly, after some time the side of the wheel would develop a groove or a concave wear pattern and I'm not sure how that would change the sharpening pattern. How would you then true up the side of the grinding wheel.... ?
Wouldn't it be better to use the lower part of the stone so it will cut evenly on the drill, where as using the middle of the stone, the stone will cut from the top down.
The side of that grinding wheel is not to be used for grinding - only the face is to be used. It creates a very unsafe condition if you start removing material from the side of the wheel.
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Finally someone actually gives good instructions :: Thanks
Great video. I watched this before setting up my sharpener and was very pleased with the results. Thank you!
To each their own, but I removed the "lip stop" with the 2 small screws. I line up the cutting edges to be vertical and parallel to the wheel's side, by eye. It's one less "figity" adjustment I need to make. The bit rolls easily in the "V" groove to line it up. I've sharpened hundreds of bits this way on my old Craftsman and a newer identical version off Amazon, my spare! I do a lot of drilling in metal, even stainless steel, are real bugger to drill. I just finished drilling two 1" diameter holes in 1/4" mild steel plate.
I started with a 1/4" pilot, then a 1/2", next a 3/4" and finally the 1" diameter.
Thank you - a straight forward explanation on how to set one of these up . . . .
I have one of these. The front anti-rotation clip retained with 2 screws is as I understand, meant to orient the indexing of the flutes to create the chisel point (this alignment may be shown in the tool instructions, google for a .pdf file on the tool if needed)...On your demo, the clip is protruding too high for the size bit. It should just engage the flute just enough so that the trailing edge of the flutes are plumb vertical. to each other. The clamp is what stops rotation, not the edge guide. Also, progressive light nibbling on the grind prevents overheating temper loss. I spray water / dishsoap mix on the wheel to keep bit cool, and/or spray tip during grind. Its a great tool, thanks for the video...many are perplexed by the appearance of the fixture, but you did explain the steps quite well....Thx! (tool is made by General, No. 825)
Thanks for noticing. A good catch, I thought I saw that had not used my new sharpener yet.
If the "lay" of the grinding marks is parallel to the cutting edges as you are showing you will have a very weak cutting edge. Particularly you will experience chipping if you drill any hard or tough metal. The base of that tool needs to be tilted to one half of the grinding angle to get your clearances to come out like a factory bit. And HSS drills, especially with Cobalt, are nearly impervious to loss of hardness because of being hot from grinding. And please, wear a respirator. The grinding dust from tool steels and carbide will literally wreck your lungs.
Thank for additional tip/instruction on the set up, makes the difference.
BJ.
Thank you for the great tutorial, great teacher.
These sharpeners have been around for decades under hundreds of different brand names. They’ve been made in Japan, Taiwan and China but I picked up an original made in the USA one recently and I’ll be hanging onto that one. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
thanks . same as craftsman 6677 or general 825 . after watching some vids , and some trial and error , i'm well pleased with mine . i advise to install a locknut (the thread size on my general 825 is 1/4 coarse) on end of threaded rod , to avoid losing the lower thumb wheel . the indicator can , in some instances , hold the bit from laying (lying?) in the trough correctly . adjust it to just barely touch the bit , and tighten the bit clamp securely .
Thanks for the Demonstration. I purchased one of the Shop Fox drill bit sharpeners quite awhile back and never got around to using it yet. You have a good understanding of its operations. I am going to use it for the first time tomorrow morning. I have everything set up. It seemed like the perfect stable invention when I looked at it online.
My bit sharpener is exactly like yours, except it’s an antique Craftsman. It belonged to my great grandfather back in the late 1930s, but it still works very well.
Still using his Craftsman drill press as well, though I did need to restore it.
Yes a Craftsman model No. 6677
Got the same one .Love Craftsman .
Grinding on the side of a brittle wheel can cause it to break up and hurl fragments at very high speed. You should get a CBN wheel if you want to grind on the side. Bench grinders look harmless but they are extremely dangerous.
I bought a similar tool and had no idea how to use it. Your video was a great help. Thanks for spending the time to explain.
Excellent instruction, thank you, cr
Maybe you can tell me too, please, how you adjust the 2 screws in front and with the piece of thin sheet from them lifted up . I wanted to send you a picture, but I don't know how
got one of these ,thanks for showing me how to use it ,very helpfull
Excellent explanation. Would you mind tell me which are the dimensions of the base sharpening drill? Greats from Honduras!!!
The black pointer is a position indicator to get both edges in the same place
Very very very excellent I like it
you should lower the front limiter (at the sharpened end) to touch drill bit for about 1-2mm
Olha…., vídeo curto MAS MUITO explicativo ❤️
ADOREI ver a simplicidade e s didática do Amigo ❤️
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Hi great demo! I just bought one of these from a thrift shop for £4! Mine is new but without the box so there were no instructions etc. Your demo explained it's use very well 👍
"Sealey SMS01, General 825, Picador no 9 Drill bit sharpening jig. WHAT YOU MUST KNOW!"
❤Дякую!!!
It seems like this product works well but I have two concerns. First, grinding on the side of the grinding wheel seems like a safety issue unless the wheel is made for it, secondly, after some time the side of the wheel would develop a groove or a concave wear pattern and I'm not sure how that would change the sharpening pattern. How would you then true up the side of the grinding wheel.... ?
Those titanium nitride coated bits are not intended to be sharpened. The coating is what keeps the bit hard.
👍
Bought one, tried to make it work for an hour, dumped it in the trash where it belongs. All that is left are bad memories and a hole in my work bench.
In your recomendations of it, might I recomend posting a link to the tool?
So, sharpen drill bit, then dull it by using it as a pointer,
Wouldn't it be better to use the lower part of the stone so it will cut evenly on the drill, where as using the middle of the stone, the stone will cut from the top down.
Excellent video, you really hurt your fingers a bunch hope they healed up ok.
Where can I find this? It's not on Amazon.
Malaysia
i need to get one i have dozens of bits to sharpen
You really shouldn't grind on the side of this type of grinding wheel, it may cause instability in the grinding wheel (may cause it to explode).
This is very light grinding and not free hand and is usually considered to be acceptable.
what i like best is your hands....................
Hola buenas seria posible la discricion de este video en español un saludo
Be careful, your fingure (upper side of thumb have injury and first fingure also he band die)😢
Thanking you, good morning gaid how to buy for me i am in India (south) Thamizh nadu ( tamil nadu state)
Give me price
The side of that grinding wheel is not to be used for grinding - only the face is to be used.
It creates a very unsafe condition if you start removing material from the side of the wheel.
Need a wheel designed to be used on sides
Con más cuidado que le arruinaste el costado 😢
I like this please send adrese
That's not how you sharpen a drill. That's completely the wrong geometry. 🤦♂️
Sorry, more bad advice from someone who does not know or have experience with this tool. Thumbs down.