Hello, german here, i found this vid better than original Tormeks, i bought this wonderful tool for my water grinder ( not Tormek, to expensive, but also good one weldinger 250) allthoughI‘m capable of sharpening bits,but, this is pure perfection 🥰❤️ Thanks for explaining Sir!
A clear description of using the Tormek drill bit sharpener. Some have commented that Tormek accessories are unnecessarily complicated. I do not agree. I have had my Tormek now for some months. Doing things by eye is fine for those that can - at my age and with my eye sight I can't any longer with sufficient accuracy. The drill bit sharpener leaves nothing to chance and eliminates the possibility of sharpening drill bits at incorrect angles. A great tool and a great accessory.
+Peter Pearson Even if you can sharpen by hand, you still can't do split point by hand grinding. Easier to drill with a cordless drill too, since most of the required "feeding" force comes from the chisel edge that doesn't really cut. Extended cutting life because of less heat sounds like a lie.
Hi Alan, I have just got this drill sharpening system and I have to say I find it superb. Your video made it very easy for me to set it up. All my old drill bits which were due to go to recycling have now been given a new life. Thanks for a great video.
Absolutely brilliant tutorial! It's so cool they added a drill attachment and used the facet method that's supposed to drill with less pressure according to a Modern Machine Shop article by Joe Mazoff.
That is a very clear description of how to sharpen drill bits, I have recently got myself a new set of bits, and you notice the difference with the 4 facit edges, thanks for making the video, I feel more confident when making this purchase
Alan, I enjoyed this video. Thank you. I realise it was some time ago, you are still the professional I knew and respected from the days of visiting your shop. Good old days.
I have watched a few of these videos on Tormek drill sharpening jig and yours by far made the understanding of it clear and simple , well done my friend , thank you
Alan, not sure what you do for a living but this is one of the best demonstration videos I've seen. Thank you so much, pretty much made up my mind on which manufacture I want to purchase. Cheers!
Now that is a very informative clip in reference to that subject. By far the best I have seen so far. Thanks alot for the effort! Best regards from Germany.
Great attachment.I have been sharpening all my drill bits by hand since I started my apprenticeship in1965.I will definitely buy one of these.I will continue passing on my hand drill bit sharpening skills to others .Regards Johnny.
Finally got the DBS-22 for my T7. It works even better than expected as I find I am able (with care) to sharpen much smaller (5/64") drills than the 3mm minimum that Tormek specify. Before and after hole borings are very revealing in that hole concentricy and entry/exit cleanliness are all hugely improved. I'm very much impressed and delighted with my purchase. Thanks again for the great demo video.
I can’t believe it’s been 9 years since my last comment. My T7 and DBS-22 are still going strong (no issues at all in this time) and I can highly recommend them both.
That's a beautiful drill bit! I wish I could get my hand-sharpened bits to look ANYTHING like this. But I cannot. I don't have the $1,000 for the machine being demonstrated here, either. If I did, I'd buy one; just for the fun of doing such precise work if for no other reason. But reality sets in. I haven't used $1,000 worth of drill bits in my entire life. The ones that get used (and dulled) the most often are also the hard ones to sharpen: the 1/8" - 1/4"; and they're cheap. Would love to own that machine and really appreciate the demo.
You wouldn't buy a complete Tormek setup just for drill bits. You would buy the DBS-22 if you already have a Tormek for your other sharpening needs and you also want to be able to sharpen drill bits.
they must have some of the most creative and brilliant people working for this company they keep coming up with amazing attachments. must be German. not that i can even afford any of the even basic packages.
I bought one of these and it Is well made, It Is very accurate, It is Expensive but Boy is it a long and laborious job to sharpen a few drills as the stone ,even coarsened is too fine and takes an age to sharpen a worn/ damaged drill. Now I only use it to sharpen special job drill when I want a really good cut
I remember in college I had to sharpen a drill bit by hand and it was so frustrating. But I'm glad I did it because once you learn it eventually becomes so easy to do and you don't have to buy jigs and by hand it can be done in under a minute sometimes
£180 in the UK, just for the attachment. Buys just shy of 1800 drill bits on Amazon.If it takes 3 minutes to sharpen one, that works out at £2 per hour for your time on top. I know some people like 'playing workshops' rather than making things- guess they are the target market.
1800 drill bits for 180 pounds in the UK, Huh? Well they must really be some very shitty chinese drills. And if you use shitty chinese drills to do any real machining you'll soon learn to regret it. You will NOT EVEN GET ANYTHING CLOSE TO 1800 American, UK, Euro made drills for 180 pounds ! Lol! An American 115 piece set covering wire gauge, letter sizes and fractional (only up to 1/2" in fraction) will run you close to $500 US/ Know how I know that? I own $3000 of American drills from 0.056" to 0.987", two or three drills of each size. Sounds to me like YOU are the one who likes 'playing workshops' and I doubt you make anything. Put that in your pipe and smoke it. Here's a pro tip for you: NEVER, EVER, USE chinese TAPS, DIES, DRILLS, REAMERS, or ENDMILLS. REMEMBER THAT, if you able to.
I bought the foley belsaw sharpening jig for the 1055 which i don't have. I use a standard bench grinder. although i didn't pay much for it. The tormek system may take a little longer to set up but it is much better than what I bought.
Is not terrible man . I'm a tool & die maker so i grind drills daily, but I usually ream the holes i drill so i don't put too much thought into a twist drill . as long as it cuts on both sides and goes straight i don't really care if it looks pretty .
Thanks for a very nice video! I have a T7 and all jigs except from this, need to go get one of those :) .. The one thing I do love more than anything else with the tormek is that it gets perfect everytime you use it, my turning tools are perfectly sharp and perfectly shaped every time with no effort! :) (not affiliated)
Hi Jeff, I think I would have to try this first, but am pretty sure that you could achieve the same effect by just adjusting the rake angle.Cheers,Alan
Hello Alan, thank you for the video. I am currently working on a diy grinding jig for the Tormek and would like to know the distance between the P and the S stop. Can you measure this for me? Thanks in advance and greetings from Germany.
Excellent demo video thank you. Very clear and precise. Such a shame some previous commenters have felt it necessary to post negative remarks. You just can't please everyone I guess.
Good demo of how to use the attachment. However, it should be noted that this implementation of a 4-facet grind does not produce a split-point drill. The centre part of the drill bit still has a negative relief angle, i.e. it scrapes instead of cutting, just like the standard 2-facet grind. As stated in the demo, however, the bit will not easily wander when starting a hole, unlike a bit with a 2-facet grind.
You have the correct tool, you have the correct car parts, so I'm not going to keep on cracking my skull open trying to fit and fringle or even loose finger knuckles! than leave it be for now, I can do other things for the time beeing
Both grinder & sharpening jig look excellent products, but at what price? You really should have indicated price. I noticed the setup appeared rather high unless you perhaps are short. Overall a great & very clear video of a device which does what most sharpening routines cannot, except ay be the most skilled of metal-workings pros.
It's a very accurate and nice machine and a jig. However, I figure the cost of maintaining that sharpening machine will definitely exceed cost of drill bits. It could be used for some high quality and expensive drill bits though...
It’s a lovely tool. I’ve had mine close on 10 years. It’s cost me not a penny over the original purchase price and has saved innumerable drill bits (mostly quality Dormer brand) in that time. The improvements in drilling accuracy and time saved by always using properly sharpened drills has proved more than justification enough for me.
I doubt you can even get one complete set of high quality drill bits up to 22 mm for the price of a DBS-22. Of course if you include the Tormak grinder in the price. but with this machine you can sharpen almost every tool like knives, scissors, axes, chisels, lathe bites.... And you can actually fit the DBS-22 to almost every bench grinder by using an adapter or by making the adapter by yourself.
Ummm.. you must not do a lot of machining. First off the "high quality" life time supply sizes: number 1- 60, letter A - Z, and those up to 22mm (lifetime supply, oh really?) would cost you a fortune (do know how I know that? I own $3000 of American made drills ranging from 0.056" to 0.987", two or three of each size!!) Secondly you failed to state what you would do if most of you "LIFEtime supply" of drills got dull. You're a dumbass. Better stick to simpleminded woodworking projects.
Considering the price I could have bought a lot of drillbits, and with the time it takes to become familiar with the DBS-22, it is not much of a financial gain unless one's time is of little or no value. Also, the rig is not really precise enough to warrant the exuberant price. also beware that there are problems with bits lifting if the feed is excessive. On a scale from 1 to 10 - about 6.
+Steve Keller Have sharpened well over 100 drill bits so far, and am warming a somewhat to the gizmo. Bought a magnifier with a measuring grid, because getting true centering on the bits is not always so easy. I am retired, so I have time to do the sharpening for friends and acquaintances, but it ain't much of a business proposal as I would be lucky to make 5 quid an hour. Am working on a chuck so I can sharpen smaller bits as well on the SJ-250 I just ordered. That's the kind of things you can do when there's no woman in the house ;-)
Looking closely when the holes are drilled through the flat bar, there is a slight raised ring around the bottom of the hole which indicates that the drill hasn't been sharpened evenly and is drilling oversize.
Thanks for a great video. I have a seperate set of drills for brass. The brass drills have an additional grind in the flute to remove the hook on the cuttung edge so the drill does not rapidly bury itself into the brass and snap. Instead it is almost a neutral rake on the edge so it shears the material and produces little splinters of brass, but does produce a very smooth hole. Can that grind be done on this jig? Even if it can't I think I am going to buy one. Best regards. Jeff
Tormek DBS-2 Will only work with T-7 or the T-3. Sharpen any bit between 1/8 inch and 7/8 inch At $310 plus tax it should have a capacity all the way up to 3 inches in diameter. It's too expensive for my needs if I could find one used for $60 or less...
"Drills aren't a precise metal removal tools,..." - anybody who has that mentality just doesn't know any better. Hole location, finished hole size, etc. all suffer from hand grinding. You wouldn't sharpen the sides of an end-mill by hand, would you? if you don't get how that's the same, you should be pounding nails on a construction site. This is a neat unit for artisans and not designed to replace a Darex or tool and cutter grinder. It all comes down to what's appropriate for your needs...
Exactly... especially the part about "You wouldn't sharpen the sides of an end-mill by hand, would you?" .. and to this I would add: You wouldn't' sharpen a REAMER by hand would you? A moments thought will reveal that we use a drill first, several thou small than the chucking reamer, to achieve desired size..so we want a drill that PERFORMS CORRECTLY !! So that the subsequent reaming operation bring us to the blueprint size we are looking for.
Very nicely done video; however, this system seems like so much overkill to me. I use a tool rest with a drill bit jig machined into it. I lightly press my bit in and then slide up, which gives me great results. Your stone rotates so slowly also, which seems counter-productive to me. Anyway, to each his own.
Hi Alan I am struggling to understand the tarmac drill bit sharping jig There are two different marks on the bit holder I don’t know which one to follow Primary fastest is I think ok But when I do the secondly fastest it doesn’t grind o the straight side off the bit it does it on the round side please let me where I am making mistake Regards Kulwinder Singh jutla
With "normal" light sharpening you should follow the thin horisontal mark. With broken drills you should use the thicker mark, because drills are spiral-shaped, and if you grind a lot of material from the drill the "rotation angle" of the drill will change. You actually need to grind the first facet of a broken drill until the edge is in line with the thin mark. Then you can go to the secondary phase of the sharpening.
This would be ok for a commercial business that sharpens bits for a living.. But to use at home too expensive..... What I drill I take my chances with free hand and have had success that I am happy with.
but... the jig is made of cast aluminum... practically plastic. seems too flimsy IMO. maybe for a home garage but, nothing big like a machine shop where my bits usually either explode or catch on fire from 316L. did a good job though
You feed and speed must be horribly wrong. I work at Swagelok for about 10 years and on CNC lathes and mills. We work primarily with 316L occasionally Inconel & Monel --- Drill bits are 135° - 140° . usually carbide or cobalt. 4 facet grind, coolant thru fed.
I can't help but think the average home diyer could never justify the cost of all these fancy sharpening tools, they might as well buy new drills. However, a short length of one inch angle and a G cramp is all anyone needs to put a good edge on a drill bit, some don't even need the angle iron...
300 dollars for the drill sharpening attachment, another 500-800 dollars for the wet grinder equals fuck that. That buys a lot of new drill bits and a lot easier and way cheaper ways to sharpen drill bits. I have a lot of sets of drill bits that I use one is a Drill Hog 115 piece cobalt also their metrics and their bits are guaranteed for life. If I break one I send it in and they send me a new one no questions asked. Another set I have is a 3/4 to 2 inch in 64th incriminates Norseman they aren’t cheap but I don’t have to sharpen them every time I use them. You would be amazed at how long a drill bit can keep its cutting edge if sharpen it properly and use it properly. I see people on videos all the time thinking as long as they use cutting oil they can turn that bit as fast as they can and bury it as hard as they can. I have to remind them it’s not sex. Lol
Nope. That's a conical point you are referring to. That geometry leaves a wide "chisel point" which actually plows the metal at the point as the drill bit is driven down the thru the material. Drill can walk thus and also requires a much greater force to drill down into the material, which dulls it much faster. Commercial cheap drills (especially shitty chineese drills) are done teat way to... well, be CHEAP!
Hello,
german here, i found this vid better than original Tormeks,
i bought this wonderful tool for my water grinder ( not Tormek, to expensive, but also good one weldinger 250) allthoughI‘m capable of sharpening bits,but, this is pure perfection 🥰❤️
Thanks for explaining Sir!
A clear description of using the Tormek drill bit sharpener. Some have commented that Tormek accessories are unnecessarily complicated. I do not agree. I have had my Tormek now for some months. Doing things by eye is fine for those that can - at my age and with my eye sight I can't any longer with sufficient accuracy. The drill bit sharpener leaves nothing to chance and eliminates the possibility of sharpening drill bits at incorrect angles. A great tool and a great accessory.
+Peter Pearson Even if you can sharpen by hand, you still can't do split point by hand grinding. Easier to drill with a cordless drill too, since most of the required "feeding" force comes from the chisel edge that doesn't really cut. Extended cutting life because of less heat sounds like a lie.
Hi Alan,
I have just got this drill sharpening system and I have to say I find it superb. Your video made it very easy for me to set it up. All my old drill bits which were due to go to recycling have now been given a new life. Thanks for a great video.
the most good tool for sharpening that i have seen because makes not only the sharpening age but all the work that the drill needs!!!
Absolutely brilliant tutorial! It's so cool they added a drill attachment and used the facet method that's supposed to drill with less pressure according to a Modern Machine Shop article by Joe Mazoff.
That is a very clear description of how to sharpen drill bits, I have recently got myself a new set of bits, and you notice the difference with the 4 facit edges, thanks for making the video, I feel more confident when making this purchase
Alan, I enjoyed this video. Thank you. I realise it was some time ago, you are still the professional I knew and respected from the days of visiting your shop. Good old days.
I have watched a few of these videos on Tormek drill sharpening jig and yours by far made the understanding of it clear and simple , well done my friend , thank you
Alan, not sure what you do for a living but this is one of the best demonstration videos I've seen. Thank you so much, pretty much made up my mind on which manufacture I want to purchase. Cheers!
Beautifully clear communication skills.
सर आप धन्यवाद आप के ये अटेचमेंट से कोई भी डिरल की धार को लगा सकता है सर बहुत बहुत धन्यवाद सर। किशोर कुमार
Now that is a very informative clip in reference to that subject.
By far the best I have seen so far.
Thanks alot for the effort!
Best regards from Germany.
Great attachment.I have been sharpening all my drill bits by hand since I started my apprenticeship in1965.I will definitely buy one of these.I will continue passing on my hand drill bit sharpening skills to others .Regards Johnny.
Finally got the DBS-22 for my T7. It works even better than expected as I find I am able (with care) to sharpen much smaller (5/64") drills than the 3mm minimum that Tormek specify. Before and after hole borings are very revealing in that hole concentricy and entry/exit cleanliness are all hugely improved. I'm very much impressed and delighted with my purchase. Thanks again for the great demo video.
00
I can’t believe it’s been 9 years since my last comment. My T7 and DBS-22 are still going strong (no issues at all in this time) and I can highly recommend them both.
That's a beautiful drill bit! I wish I could get my hand-sharpened bits to look ANYTHING like this. But I cannot. I don't have the $1,000 for the machine being demonstrated here, either. If I did, I'd buy one; just for the fun of doing such precise work if for no other reason. But reality sets in. I haven't used $1,000 worth of drill bits in my entire life. The ones that get used (and dulled) the most often are also the hard ones to sharpen: the 1/8" - 1/4"; and they're cheap.
Would love to own that machine and really appreciate the demo.
And if you spend a little more money for a solid carbide drill bit in those measurements, it'll last you even longer.
You wouldn't buy a complete Tormek setup just for drill bits. You would buy the DBS-22 if you already have a Tormek for your other sharpening needs and you also want to be able to sharpen drill bits.
The best tutorial video I've seen. Brilliant work!
they must have some of the most creative and brilliant people working for this company they keep coming up with amazing attachments. must be German. not that i can even afford any of the even basic packages.
+WV591 Swedish.
I just got my DBS-22 and Tomek T8 today. I like your videos and they are a great compliment to the instruction manual.
I bought one of these and it Is well made, It Is very accurate, It is Expensive but Boy is it a long and laborious job to sharpen a few drills as the stone ,even coarsened is too fine and takes an age to sharpen a worn/ damaged drill. Now I only use it to sharpen special job drill when I want a really good cut
You do use the Silicon Carbide (SB) stone (black one) I hope?
If not: Thats your issue. Toolsteels are too hard to do on the SG stone.
I remember in college I had to sharpen a drill bit by hand and it was so frustrating. But I'm glad I did it because once you learn it eventually becomes so easy to do and you don't have to buy jigs and by hand it can be done in under a minute sometimes
£180 in the UK, just for the attachment. Buys just shy of 1800 drill bits on Amazon.If it takes 3 minutes to sharpen one, that works out at £2 per hour for your time on top. I know some people like 'playing workshops' rather than making things- guess they are the target market.
1800 drill bits for 180 pounds in the UK, Huh? Well they must really be some very shitty chinese drills. And if you use shitty chinese drills to do any real machining you'll soon learn to regret it. You will NOT EVEN GET ANYTHING CLOSE TO 1800 American, UK, Euro made drills for 180 pounds ! Lol! An American 115 piece set covering wire gauge, letter sizes and fractional (only up to 1/2" in fraction) will run you close to $500 US/ Know how I know that? I own $3000 of American drills from 0.056" to 0.987", two or three drills of each size. Sounds to me like YOU are the one who likes 'playing workshops' and I doubt you make anything. Put that in your pipe and smoke it.
Here's a pro tip for you:
NEVER, EVER, USE chinese TAPS, DIES, DRILLS, REAMERS, or ENDMILLS. REMEMBER THAT, if you able to.
The beauty of this jig is that you can so easily adapt the cutting geometry to suit any material not just wood.
Najlepše je tvoje predavanje in natančno lp
I bought the foley belsaw sharpening jig for the 1055 which i don't have. I use a standard bench grinder. although i didn't pay much for it. The tormek system may take a little longer to set up but it is much better than what I bought.
Is not terrible man . I'm a
tool & die maker so i grind drills daily, but I usually ream the holes i drill so i don't put too much thought into a twist drill . as long as it cuts on both sides and goes straight i don't really care if it looks pretty .
Thanks for a very nice video! I have a T7 and all jigs except from this, need to go get one of those :) .. The one thing I do love more than anything else with the tormek is that it gets perfect everytime you use it, my turning tools are perfectly sharp and perfectly shaped every time with no effort! :) (not affiliated)
Hi Jeff, I think I would have to try this first, but am pretty sure that you could achieve the same effect by just adjusting the rake angle.Cheers,Alan
12:31 when the sound turns to 'nails on chalkboard' - you know you've got a sharp bit!
Hello Alan, thank you for the video.
I am currently working on a diy grinding jig for the Tormek and would like to know the distance between the P and the S stop. Can you measure this for me? Thanks in advance and greetings from Germany.
It is 14.6mm, but the black one(S) also screws open to a wider distance
Excellent demo video thank you. Very clear and precise. Such a shame some previous commenters have felt it necessary to post negative remarks. You just can't please everyone I guess.
Excellent maîtrise de haut précision '
Bravo
Good demo of how to use the attachment. However, it should be noted that this implementation of a 4-facet grind does not produce a split-point drill. The centre part of the drill bit still has a negative relief angle, i.e. it scrapes instead of cutting, just like the standard 2-facet grind. As stated in the demo, however, the bit will not easily wander when starting a hole, unlike a bit with a 2-facet grind.
You have the correct tool, you have the correct car parts, so I'm not going to keep on cracking my skull open trying to fit and fringle or even loose finger knuckles! than leave it be for now, I can do other things for the time beeing
Both grinder & sharpening jig look excellent products, but at what price?
You really should have indicated price.
I noticed the setup appeared rather high unless you perhaps are short.
Overall a great & very clear video of a device which does what most sharpening routines cannot, except ay be the most skilled of metal-workings pros.
Brilliant video. Very well explained and edited🤝
It's a very accurate and nice machine and a jig. However, I figure the cost of maintaining that sharpening machine will definitely exceed cost of drill bits. It could be used for some high quality and expensive drill bits though...
It’s a lovely tool. I’ve had mine close on 10 years. It’s cost me not a penny over the original purchase price and has saved innumerable drill bits (mostly quality Dormer brand) in that time. The improvements in drilling accuracy and time saved by always using properly sharpened drills has proved more than justification enough for me.
@petcatznz Thanks for your comment. As you say you cannot please everyone, I just do as I do, they don't have to watch. :-)
Good video. Easy instructions to follow. Thank you.
Which would I rather spend money on? A lifetime supply of high quality drill bits, or a drill bit sharpener (both cost the same)? Let me see...
I doubt you can even get one complete set of high quality drill bits up to 22 mm for the price of a DBS-22. Of course if you include the Tormak grinder in the price. but with this machine you can sharpen almost every tool like knives, scissors, axes, chisels, lathe bites....
And you can actually fit the DBS-22 to almost every bench grinder by using an adapter or by making the adapter by yourself.
Ummm.. you must not do a lot of machining. First off the "high quality" life time supply sizes: number 1- 60, letter A - Z, and those up to 22mm (lifetime supply, oh really?) would cost you a fortune (do know how I know that? I own $3000 of American made drills ranging from 0.056" to 0.987", two or three of each size!!)
Secondly you failed to state what you would do if most of you "LIFEtime supply" of drills got dull. You're a dumbass. Better stick to simpleminded woodworking projects.
Excellent video! Thank you sir!
Considering the price I could have bought a lot of drillbits, and with the time it takes to become familiar with the DBS-22, it is not much of a financial gain unless one's time is of little or no value.
Also, the rig is not really precise enough to warrant the exuberant price.
also beware that there are problems with bits lifting if the feed is excessive. On a scale from 1 to 10 - about 6.
+Steve Keller Have sharpened well over 100 drill bits so far, and am warming a somewhat to the gizmo. Bought a magnifier with a measuring grid, because getting true centering on the bits is not always so easy. I am retired, so I have time to do the sharpening for friends and acquaintances, but it ain't much of a business proposal as I would be lucky to make 5 quid an hour. Am working on a chuck so I can sharpen smaller bits as well on the
SJ-250 I just ordered. That's the kind of things you can do when there's no woman in the house ;-)
$430 in Australia...!!!
Looking closely when the holes are drilled through the flat bar, there is a slight raised ring around the bottom of the hole which indicates that the drill hasn't been sharpened evenly and is drilling oversize.
How are you planning to sharpen it any better?
How much the complete set of Tormek T7 and how to get order?
I might just buy new set of drill bits, thought a great video to have tools in your garage
very good instruction...thanks from Tennessee
Maybe you mentioned it in the video, but what model grinder are you using in this video?
Thanks for a great video. I have a seperate set of drills for brass. The brass drills have an additional grind in the flute to remove the hook on the cuttung edge so the drill does not rapidly bury itself into the brass and snap. Instead it is almost a neutral rake on the edge so it shears the material and produces little splinters of brass, but does produce a very smooth hole. Can that grind be done on this jig? Even if it can't I think I am going to buy one. Best regards. Jeff
you probably can use grind a straightforward 135 or 140° point angle without all extra neutral rake and all that.
Did you invert the guide at 11:40? It was off camera a few seconds.
The Jig is nice idea, but for that price why it is made from aluminum???
easier to cast
Won't rust.
cheaper than gold
nice video! That's a fantastic jig! But its a little bit too expensive for me...
Hello I'm form Lebanon I can sharp trimmer hair blade with tormented machine.thanks
is there a way to sharpen up the spiral blade edge?
Alan kje se lahko kupi lp is SLOVENIJE
Tormek DBS-2 Will only work with T-7 or the T-3. Sharpen any bit between 1/8 inch and 7/8 inch At $310 plus tax it should have a capacity all the way up to 3 inches in diameter. It's too expensive for my needs if I could find one used for $60 or less...
Super ! It's perfect!
Will the sharpening geometry work as well for drilling metal or are they intended to work best on wood?
Metal especially, but works extremely well on wood.
Please I want a video explaining the method of shaver blades please reply
Waoh.excellent .am afraid to ask the price tho
Great Vid, Immaculate workshop Alan.
como faço para adquiri o afiador, fiquei muito interessado, pois sou serralheiro.
Najboljši brusilec svedrov
Good job and nice review.cool machine also.
請問它能磨的鑽咀最細的是多大？
Excellent Video Alan, Thank you
Great product great demonstration
Great video. You remind me of Mr. Rogers.
Very informative, thank you.
Excelente!!! Muchas gracias.
good ok . end lubrication? is ciro
..¿no resulta mas fácil aprender a afilar las mechas de la forma tradicional , sin necesidad de invertir en tremenda tecnología?
Umím ho nabrousit v ruce, lepší a rychleji.Jinak krásná hračka,v provozu pomalá.
@trackerscott nothing's different from the titanium bits, its just a very thin coating
All things Oliver: Sadly, this is so very true!
Why is the stone running in reverse.
Hola ¿Dónde puedo comprar ese equipo para Chile? Gracias.
Osvaldo Ayala
"Drills aren't a precise metal removal tools,..." - anybody who has that mentality just doesn't know any better. Hole location, finished hole size, etc. all suffer from hand grinding. You wouldn't sharpen the sides of an end-mill by hand, would you? if you don't get how that's the same, you should be pounding nails on a construction site. This is a neat unit for artisans and not designed to replace a Darex or tool and cutter grinder. It all comes down to what's appropriate for your needs...
Exactly... especially the part about "You wouldn't sharpen the sides of an end-mill by hand, would you?" .. and to this I would add: You wouldn't' sharpen a REAMER by hand would you? A moments thought will reveal that we use a drill first, several thou small than the chucking reamer, to achieve desired size..so we want a drill that PERFORMS CORRECTLY !! So that the subsequent reaming operation bring us to the blueprint size we are looking for.
KOLIKO je cena tega pripomoćek in kje se da dobit
Como lo compro soy del Ecuador tienen alguna sucursal por acá cuanto cuesta
Thank you !
What about router bits sharpening jig?
Very nicely done video; however, this system seems like so much overkill to me. I use a tool rest with a drill bit jig machined into it. I lightly press my bit in and then slide up, which gives me great results. Your stone rotates so slowly also, which seems counter-productive to me. Anyway, to each his own.
Brew you need to get the JOOLTOOL X. It sharpens at high speeds fast & accurately with 3M abrasive. You will thank me.
@@victorj723
Jooltool cannot precision grind 4 facet --- dumbass.
Hi Alan I am struggling to understand the tarmac drill bit sharping jig
There are two different marks on the bit holder I don’t know which one to follow
Primary fastest is I think ok
But when I do the secondly fastest it doesn’t grind o the straight side off the bit it does it on the round side please let me where I am making mistake
Regards
Kulwinder Singh jutla
With "normal" light sharpening you should follow the thin horisontal mark. With broken drills you should use the thicker mark, because drills are spiral-shaped, and if you grind a lot of material from the drill the "rotation angle" of the drill will change. You actually need to grind the first facet of a broken drill until the edge is in line with the thin mark. Then you can go to the secondary phase of the sharpening.
Вопрос. Зачем такая точилка, для китайских сверл?
Very Nice tool although i prefer plane facets not curved.
olá como adiquerir esta ferramenta quanto custa
Зачетное приспособление только непонятно почему так круг медленно крутится. У нас на заводе точило такого диаметра раз в 6 быстрей вращается.
This would be ok for a commercial business that sharpens bits for a living.. But to use at home too expensive..... What I drill I take my chances with free hand and have had success that I am happy with.
I have an old sharpener, but nothing to do with this, not practical, the end result is never good. I like the precision of this tool to sharpen!
And how is this supposed to my time at the grinding wheel
but... the jig is made of cast aluminum... practically plastic. seems too flimsy IMO. maybe for a home garage but, nothing big like a machine shop where my bits usually either explode or catch on fire from 316L. did a good job though
You feed and speed must be horribly wrong. I work at Swagelok for about 10 years and on CNC lathes and mills. We work primarily with 316L occasionally Inconel & Monel --- Drill bits are 135° - 140° . usually carbide or cobalt. 4 facet grind, coolant thru fed.
I do it all by hand/eye coordination.25 years experience in auto setting makes it easier.
+Daza Maz Then why are you watching this video?
Se dobi v sloveniji in koliko je cena lp
I can't help but think the average home diyer could never justify the cost of all these fancy sharpening tools, they might as well buy new drills. However, a short length of one inch angle and a G cramp is all anyone needs to put a good edge on a drill bit, some don't even need the angle iron...
300 dollars for the drill sharpening attachment, another 500-800 dollars for the wet grinder equals fuck that. That buys a lot of new drill bits and a lot easier and way cheaper ways to sharpen drill bits. I have a lot of sets of drill bits that I use one is a Drill Hog 115 piece cobalt also their metrics and their bits are guaranteed for life. If I break one I send it in and they send me a new one no questions asked. Another set I have is a 3/4 to 2 inch in 64th incriminates Norseman they aren’t cheap but I don’t have to sharpen them every time I use them. You would be amazed at how long a drill bit can keep its cutting edge if sharpen it properly and use it properly. I see people on videos all the time thinking as long as they use cutting oil they can turn that bit as fast as they can and bury it as hard as they can. I have to remind them it’s not sex. Lol
❤
Wow!
good Sharpening Attachment
I really really don't see weekend warriors like myself spending that kind of money on sharpening my handful of bits. LOL!
Me neither.
why did you reply to your self?
It's not for weekend warriors, go somewhere else
Para comprar?
Good
I thought a drill had to be sharpened with a curved cutting surface. I mean the drill has to be rotated while it is sharpened.
Nope. That's a conical point you are referring to. That geometry leaves a wide "chisel point" which actually plows the metal at the point as the drill bit is driven down the thru the material. Drill can walk thus and also requires a much greater force to drill down into the material, which dulls it much faster. Commercial cheap drills (especially shitty chineese drills) are done teat way to... well, be CHEAP!