I have a drill Doctor, and chucked it. And went back to hand sharping, seen your video made it. Clamp it down to my sander. couldn't believe how well this wood jig worked. I ended up playing with it for over a hour sharping Drill bit. I plan on up grading it a little. you should of went for a Patent its that good. Ron
Hi Joe, I have used a face sander to sharpen drills and other metal objects for many years now. One thing that I have learned the hard way is that if there is a build-up of wood dust in the sander, it can set on fire. Not right away, but may-be many minutes later when you are not in the room to see it catch fire. This is more likely to happen if there is a blower fitted to exstract the dust into a container as it fans any sparks. Another tip that I use is with two hexigon nuts of the same size. Put the nuts next to each other side by side on a flat surface resting on thier flats, then use the 60 degee's angle between the nuts to judge if the drills are equal on both sides and that the angle is near to 59 degree's. I hope that these tip's help others, as much as your tips have helped me.
A more probable fire risk, is when people grind a lot of aluminum, and then start to grind iron or steel, which creates "Thermite" (the iron oxide burns fiercely with the aluminum dust)... Actually, most steel train rails are welded by burning aluminum dust with iron oxide. The chemical reaction is extremely energetic (exothermic).
The General drill sharpener that was purchased at the yard sale works very well, in fact i improved on it making the numbers easier to read and more accurate , drill bits have two cutting surfaces/side you could not achieve by the hand method of your approach.
It works for him. I admire his ingenuity and willingness to share his ideas. Most of the comments are constructive if not appreciative. Some comments could have been deleted immediately. Good job. Glad to see it. I like making jigs.
Ditto from me. One tip I might add from unfortunate experience is to lose the particle board for stuff like that. I've got a whole shop full of nice accessories and jigs I built for my radial saw and routers which I now wished didn't have any p.board components. Much of it is still usable, but some has lumps and swelling which cancels out the work I put into making it accurate. I now figure if I plan on using it more than once, it's at least worth birch plywood or something. Take Care
I made one to see if I could do it, I was so surprised when it actually sharpened my drill bits,,,,THE FIRST TIME. With arthritis it is hard to hold the small bit but I could do it. I did put a stop so the bit addresses the disc level. A great addition to my work, thank you Joe.
I have and used a sharpener like that general for over 35 years. If you want a drill sharpened to better than new condition, and you want to take the extra 30 seconds to set it up. You can not beat how perfect it will sharpen a twist drill. You can adjust every aspect and angle on the bits. If any one has trouble I will be glad to help you out.
Check out Greg Halligan's workshop video comparing the Drill Doctor to the Craftsman/General drill sharpening jig. He uses an 8" bench grinder. However, I took a suggestion of his to use a belt sander with the jig and built a simple step to mount the jig with my 1" x 30" Delta belt sander. Works great! These devices are way easy to use and will deliver consistent excellent results every time. IF IF IF people will just read the instructions completely and take the time to set it up right from the first. Big IF, I know.
Thanx! Now, after watching this, I went to my grinder which has a positionable tool rest for up, down, and tilt. Putting my diy drill guide on (just angle iron mounted on a small board with a keyway attached beneath to sit in the slot) and as I'd been manually tilting the bit upward to grind the relief, I realized all I had to do was loosen the tilt clamp and...voila! Just the same as your jig!
If the cradle pivot center was in the same plane as the bit's center while being sharpened, you wouldn't need to push the bit into the sanding disk as the cradle is rotated upwards. The heel of web behind the edge being sharpened would then extend past the circle radius from cradle pivot to sanding disk, formed as the cradle is rotated upwards. If the cradle pivot point is adjustable (eg: riding in a slot in the cradle and jig), the heel relief can be adjusted to suit the diameter of the bit. This would allow consistent heel relief for each cutting edge vs. relying on operator skill. A stop in the cradle behind the bit would also factor out the major part of variation between flutes due to operator control.
I've been ruining drill bits on my Drill Doctor for years. Saw your video last night. Built a similar one today. This is the first time I've managed to sharpen a drill bit which drills a satisfactory hole. Thanx for sharing your thoughts on this great jig. jp ps. threw my Drill Doctor machine in the garbage. That company is probably liable for fraud and misrepresentation charges.
Thank you Joe for the idea for a sharpening jig. Your jig looks fairly simple and practical. It may be possible to acquire the skill to do a perfect job of sharpening the bit with your bare hands. But that may take years. A jig allows you to reach that level of perfection in hours if not minutes. Sharpening a bit without a jig looks like trying to draw a 12 inch straight line without a ruler.
I tried the General many years ago and wasn't able to understand how to set it up properly. I was given a Drill Doctor, the model 500 and the video included with it was clear and I had no trouble with it. As for how easy it is to use....My wife watched the video and set it up in a few minutes to sharpen over 500 drill bits I bought at auction, various sizes, both regular twist drills and carbide tipped drills for masonry and concrete. They all turned out beautifully and she only took a few days to sharpen them. She sold them at her craft shows for 50 cents for bits under 1/4" and a dollar for a bit larger and made a nice bit of change. Drill Doctor is a good tool.
I persevered with a Drill Doctor for years. Never got a good result, too much flex in the whole plot..I do 'em by eye now with an angle grinder. Works for me.....
its like reinventing the wheel .. ive tried em all. i still use my first method . a block of wood and my eye. your way i would need several different sized jigs. but its the best and easiest ive seen
Hey..... Don't worry in the least about negative criticism. We all do what we find the best and the easiest way to do things. If the end result is a tool that cuts good, then if standing on our heads got it that way then so be it. I might make up something similar both for drill bits and for lathe tools.... Simple jigs are as good as not so simple jigs.
Hey Joe, I just stumbled a crossed your channel looking for how to videos. I've been throwing away drill bits for years. I've tried sharpening them and never get a good quality cut I'm looking for. I thought about a drill doctor. look at them, almost purchase it and then put it back on the shelf. I know if you add up all the drillbits I've tossed it would probably pay for several drill doctors! Your simple jig is the stuff I like! If you don't have the right tool make it! Thanks!
Joe your jig is good and a lot of people say the drill doctor is better.. i have used the drill doctor and it is very nice for sharpening drill bits for wood. for metal bits you should use oil or water to cool your work so you keep the temper. when you sharpen your bit and you see sparks flying you are heating the edge up past the temper point. for wood this is perfectly fine. for metal try oiling your wheel or wetting it. either way awesome jig and nice job.
oiling your wheel ? WHAT ?? this is NOT a Whetstone where you use mineral oil to sharpen a knife... oiling a piece of sandpaper ? that was his "wheel" in the demo.. now if your wheel is the standard aluminum oxide like with the standard bench grinder, never do something that will compromise the integrity of that type of wheel either !
While the "do not overheat" advice is solid, remember that a slower than a bench grinder, sanding wheel, which has a larger diameter and uses sand paper, produces lower temperatures that the grinding wheel, because is also "pumps" a lot more air into the contact point.But using a small, aquarium pump to direct a concentrated stream of air helps a lot at avoiding overheating, and avoids having to use water or oil.
Drill Doctor much much better, but your jig makes perfect sense - the only thing that is tough is doing both flutes equally with your jig. If it works for you then go for it! I have a drill doctor and after two boxes of dull bits, I broke down and bought one. Fantastic is my only response. Now I have too many drill bits!
This popped up in my feed as there were other similar videos on utube. I was told Ai is handling what people see. Nice video, well done. I would have liked to see you test the drill bit by drilling a hole to see how crisp it would be. I'm impressed I imagine there would be no tear out despite not having a backing on the material been drilled. Great little invention.
Just thought of something? If you made the fulcrum of the turning point just below the drill, the action of turning the drill to give clearance would be done automatically and you would not have to move the drill towards the sander by hand to give clearance.
Have been disappointed with the crap jigs from the hardware store and have been looking for something simple and was taken by your approach. Will be making one tomorrow. Only a DIY - no tradesman, so should do me fine. Cheers Joe for sharing your jig.
I love your simple Idea. I started making three jigs out of Corian ( lifetime ) solid countertop material by DuPont. One is mine and my mechanic gets one, because I have sharpened his drill bits while he works on my car as they frustrate him..
Good jig well thought out. Rather than pushing the drill forward. If you tilt the jig up with the drill on the back edge touching the sandpaper, then come down to the cutting edge, you won't have to move the drill on the jig.
I like it, but I would have made a way to quickly clamp the bit down. I would also have made the fixture fit in the track, so you could move it to a fresh place on your sanding disk. After sharpening 6-8 bits, I'll bet your sand paper wears through to the backing plate. Thanks for the great idea,,,
Thanks for the video. I don't know about you, but I need to check the angle and if the cutting edges are even. Starrett make a really nice little attachment for their hook rules that attaches a 59 degree stop with measurements marked on it,onto the rule and that lets you check your angle and also check the length of the cutting edges. Fast and simple just hold the drill bit along the rule and look for light at the cutting edge. All the best
Thanks. Watching this made me rethink my drastically overengineered plans for a knife sharpening jig. New version just has the sharpening angle cut right off of a block of wood so the blade can be held against that while the hone is run over the remaining flat surface to maintain the angle. There's something to be said for simplicity. Might add a stiff brush as wear-surface for the hone and magnets and/or rubber underneath but the thing just works.
Very Nice! I'll take a homemade jig built to spec any day over something so complicated. Haven't bothered learning this skill but my drawer of dull bits is overflowing and my index missing too many important sizes. Give a man a bit and he'll drill for a day. Give him a jig and.......
I am almost done building your drill bit jig. I appreciated the tour of your workshop. My grinder is mounted on a saw horse table which didn't have a good platform so I took the factory guides off it and made one out of boards. Had to level it since the grinder is on a saw horse table with plywood sheets. In all it is fun to work through it. You set the example and it is much appreciated. Can't wait to sharpen some drill bits. Thank you.
Good morning, I'm from Brazil, I really liked the way you sharpen drills. How many degrees is the lateral slope? Can I sharpen bits from 0.6mm to 2mm? Could you do a demonstration?
He didn't reply so I hope I can help you: The clearance angle (if that's what you meant) is between 14 and 7 degrees, depending on the size of the drill bit and how hard materials it's intended for. 11 degrees is a normal angle for "normal" drills up to 12 mm and 9 degrees for a little bigger bits. Smaller bits, larger angle. I havent found any general sharpening device that can sharpen as small bits as you mentioned. The usual sharpening machines and jigs start from about 3 mm. To sharpen these small drills can hardly be done by hand and they are pretty cheap anyway.
Congratulations Joe, this is one of the simplest yet most clever and effective jigs. However one needs to do some more preparatory work especially for drills less than 9mm, or broken ones,otherwise he will end up with funny results. It all has to do with what rotational position you touch the bit on the grinder.Your demonstration bits were big and new enough to touch them correctly by just watching the original line..This is not always possible. I will try uploading a complimentary video.
Your idea is halfway there. In your video you show the drill bit on top of a pivoting cradle which makes the drill bit moce away from the sander as its pivoted up to grind the relief and the user having to feed the drill bit towards the sander to grind the relief. What if you changed the pivot point and have the drill bit under the pivot point, it would then feed in automatically to grind the relief.
just wanted to let you know theres something even better now the new bench grinders the one tool rest is grooved for a drill bit lay the drill bit on and a twist of the drill done i couldnt get better unless i took it to a pro
I hate to tell you, but the General is much faster, and way more accurate. If you read the instructions, you will see that it is only a matter of bringing the bit into contact with the grinding medium, and swinging it back and forth, no raising and pushing, and it sharpens it exactly to spec.
jim again thanks sharpin my first drill bit works great had a drill dr the big thing with them if your sharpening lots of bits would keep ya in the poor house buying them sleeves i found you only get 2 or 3 bits and you have to change the sleeve
Large drill bits are very easy to sharpen by hand on the bench grinder, fine stone. But , my precision work require small drill bits for metals, carbon steel, brass, aluminum, stainless steel, copper white metal. How does your rig work on drill bits 1/8 inch diameter and smaller, all the way down to number 60 ? I have nearly 100 of them waiting for sharpening. Best regards, Patricia,
Drill bits smaller than 1/4" or 3/16" are HARDER to sharpen, either with a jig or machine or by hand. Trying to sharpen such small bits as 1/8 or much smaller is a matter of luck, and those are so inexpensive that it is counter productive to try.
TheMrGorbasa - I think you want to know why the drill is rotated during sharpening...That is to provide a relief angle behind the cutting edge of the drill of ~10 degrees (8~12 degrees is normally used).
Joe........yours is a very good practical idea, and with just a few refinements your simple idea can likely be improved upon to further reduce any required skills or human error. In the Tubalcain video notice how close his pivot point is to the sander. Your pivot point is a bit farther back, about midway the bit length. This causes more radial swing of tip and a correspondingly greater linear distance the bit must travel (slid) to maintain contact with sander when you pivot/slide. Just wondering if it's possible to incorporate a close pivot somehow working off of an eccentric type cam lobe to eliminate the need to slide the bit inward by hand? Maybe I'll work up a simple drawing on this to see where my idea leads. I suspect the fatal flaw in using a lobed pivot point might be that it only works best for a certain bit diameter............maybe a lobe of adjustable eccentricity would work for all sizes......but then again it complicates your simple solution.
Isn't that paper only for wood sanding? For metal you need a grinding disc. You can get cheap ones to attach to a drill or use a bench grinder. The right tool/material for the job comes to mind.
How do you tell if you are grinding more on one side ? With that POS it has a screw to keep the bit the same length on each side. The drill doctor is more perfect. With your home made jig you can get it to work one or two times then your bit is all out of shape.
Hi, thanks for sharing, I recently found the disc sander will be more effective to sharpen stuff... This jus seem to be doing the trick maybe I copy it. Do you make the disc grinder, how many HP, how many rpm, how many HP? Thanks and keep it up
Thanks for the reply, this information will become handy. I'm currently sending a model to a aluminum foundry to make the disc, mine will be for metal, I will chek your video for more information. Keep up the good job!
i was always told if u dont know how to maintain a tool u shouldnt be using it...and that has stood me well in all aspects of life....i was sharpening bits, chisels, knives and even saws wen i was a kid.....ppl buying sharpeners for £300 and still dont know how to use them correctly.....nothing beats the the feel of a tool in ur hand, ur touch is better than and machine will ever be...imho
+Brat4PrimeMinister I know what you're saying and agree, to a point, but your hand can only get you so much precision, once you venture into .0001"/.0025mm land, your hand can't really keep up with a proper machine.
Thanks Joe. Nice way to guide the bit. I especially like the big sanding disc. Where do you get the paper to fit? I left the 9" one my Dad made for me at the old house when we moved and I've been kicking myself since.
I get ALL of my sandpaper and associated items from Industrial Abrasives - www.industrialabrasives.com/ I've been a customer since the mid-90's - besides being super friendly all of their products are top notch and their prices are very good. Another thing about them is you can have sandpaper sizes made that aren't listed in the catalog - now, other companies may do that but I haven't bothered to ask or look around.
jig is OK except that the bottom of your pivot block should lay flat on your base board and no radius on the front.This will start the sharpening of both sides of bit at same level. please respond! THANK YOU!
Nice idea and you maybe able to sharpen brill bits to drill wood with your little jig just fine; however I don't use those bits on wood I use those types on different types of metal what they were designed for. I cannot see down to a thousandth of an inch so I will use the tool you called junk because your too lazy to set it up. the tool works well and is very accurate if used properly. they have been around for nearly 75 years and mine is under the Craftsman name. I have mine setup on a grinder and it takes just a minute to load a bit grind it razor sharp with the point dead center of the bit
His tool would word good if he knew how to use it better. The angle is key, but there is 2 angles per side. When make the first major cut you will notice the blade not hitting is more less on a 90. or straight up. then to do your blade rotate clockwise till the point that was facing up directly matches point on the other side. But I agree with what your saying. Shit like this is to more less get you out a bind. Say at camp need a bit or a buddies place who lives to far to drive home to drill a dam hole and it snaps, tools not with you. If like me there is no way in fucking hell i'll claim defeat, I call Geeter.. you know.. Geeter fuckin Dune..lol
Sharpening small bits with that jig would not work! That 825 might take a few minutes to setup and learn how to use but its does small bits with ease. If you want to sell that 825 I'd take it off your hands anytime.
A Great Video, ignore the trolls, I personally loved the pacing and attention to detail. I learned a lot Would it be possible to add in pin to add the initial registration of the jig to a 90 degree angle before you lift up?
+John Olynyk It's worn out 80 grit. The make of disc sander is I Made It In My Shop. The size is 16" - the link to it is www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/sanding.htm
As it is NOT a grinding wheel, but a slower turning SANDING wheel, the risk is very low, althoug painful, but not really all that dangerous. Just use a Little care.
Well , I had seen the video you mentioned and thought that was good, but your jig makes thing easier except one , ie , pushing the drill bit upwards while sharpening it . That seems a bit clumsy but can be easily overcome if we install a push rod attaching to a spring behind the drill bit . The push rod will keep the drill bit touching the grinding wheel while we move it upwards . I hope you understand what I mean .
Guess who's going to build one of these? I've got a "Drill Doctor", that "General" thingy and various other contraptions and NONE work worth a tinker's damn. This inspired fixture (you can't say "jig" any longer you know) just might be what we've all been searching for. The only part I missed is how to establish and keep the proper angle between fixture and sanding disk both horizontal and vertically within the fixture and base plate when sharpening. Did I fall asleep? But Thanks anyway! JD
Hey Dan, just watched your Video again and it seems to me that a "stop block" is needed to keep the rocking action to a certain degree of accuracy, thus allowing the point angle to be always the same side flute to flute. What do ya think?
this is the exact same motion the drill doctor provides. only problem is the stupid little wheels in it wear and just generally suck. I think i will make one of these jigs for my apex grinder!
I have a drill Doctor, and chucked it. And went back to hand sharping, seen your video made it. Clamp it down to my sander. couldn't believe how well this wood jig worked. I ended up playing with it for over a hour sharping Drill bit. I plan on up grading it a little.
you should of went for a Patent its that good.
Ron
Hi Joe,
I have used a face sander to sharpen drills and other metal objects for many years now. One thing that I have learned the hard way is that if there is a build-up of wood dust in the sander, it can set on fire. Not right away, but may-be many minutes later when you are not in the room to see it catch fire. This is more likely to happen if there is a blower fitted to exstract the dust into a container as it fans any sparks.
Another tip that I use is with two hexigon nuts of the same size. Put the nuts next to each other side by side on a flat surface resting on thier flats, then use the 60 degee's angle between the nuts to judge if the drills are equal on both sides and that the angle is near to 59 degree's.
I hope that these tip's help others, as much as your tips have helped me.
A more probable fire risk, is when people grind a lot of aluminum, and then start to grind iron or steel, which creates "Thermite" (the iron oxide burns fiercely with the aluminum dust)... Actually, most steel train rails are welded by burning aluminum dust with iron oxide. The chemical reaction is extremely energetic (exothermic).
The General drill sharpener that was purchased at the yard sale works very well, in fact i improved on it making the numbers easier to read and more accurate , drill bits have two cutting surfaces/side you could not achieve by the hand method of your approach.
It works for him. I admire his ingenuity and willingness to share his ideas. Most of the comments are constructive if not appreciative. Some comments could have been deleted immediately. Good job. Glad to see it. I like making jigs.
Ditto from me. One tip I might add from unfortunate experience is to lose the particle board for stuff like that. I've got a whole shop full of nice accessories and jigs I built for my radial saw and routers which I now wished didn't have any p.board components. Much of it is still usable, but some has lumps and swelling which cancels out the work I put into making it accurate. I now figure if I plan on using it more than once, it's at least worth birch plywood or something.
Take Care
I made one to see if I could do it, I was so surprised when it actually sharpened my drill bits,,,,THE FIRST TIME. With arthritis it is hard to hold the small bit but I could do it. I did put a stop so the bit addresses the disc level. A great addition to my work, thank you Joe.
That jig you got from the yard sale works amazingly well. It's not hard to use. the manual has like 4 pages, with large print
I have and used a sharpener like that general for over 35 years. If you want a drill sharpened to better than new condition, and you want to take the extra 30 seconds to set it up. You can not beat how perfect it will sharpen a twist drill. You can adjust every aspect and angle on the bits. If any one has trouble I will be glad to help you out.
I would very much appreciate someone to show me how to set one up and use it properly
thanks
+denison gunner You can down load the manual from the net. Set up is straight forward and easy to use, consistent results every time
Check out Greg Halligan's workshop video comparing the Drill Doctor to the Craftsman/General drill sharpening jig. He uses an 8" bench grinder. However, I took a suggestion of his to use a belt sander with the jig and built a simple step to mount the jig with my 1" x 30" Delta belt sander. Works great! These devices are way easy to use and will deliver consistent excellent results every time. IF IF IF people will just read the instructions completely and take the time to set it up right from the first. Big IF, I know.
Thanx! Now, after watching this, I went to my grinder which has a positionable tool rest for up, down, and tilt. Putting my diy drill guide on (just angle iron mounted on a small board with a keyway attached beneath to sit in the slot) and as I'd been manually tilting the bit upward to grind the relief, I realized all I had to do was loosen the tilt clamp and...voila! Just the same as your jig!
If the cradle pivot center was in the same plane as the bit's center while being sharpened, you wouldn't need to push the bit into the sanding disk as the cradle is rotated upwards. The heel of web behind the edge being sharpened would then extend past the circle radius from cradle pivot to sanding disk, formed as the cradle is rotated upwards. If the cradle pivot point is adjustable (eg: riding in a slot in the cradle and jig), the heel relief can be adjusted to suit the diameter of the bit. This would allow consistent heel relief for each cutting edge vs. relying on operator skill. A stop in the cradle behind the bit would also factor out the major part of variation between flutes due to operator control.
I've been ruining drill bits on my Drill Doctor for years. Saw your video last night. Built a similar one today. This is the first time I've managed to sharpen a drill bit which drills a satisfactory hole. Thanx for sharing your thoughts on this great jig. jp
ps. threw my Drill Doctor machine in the garbage. That company is probably liable for fraud and misrepresentation charges.
Had my Drill Doctor for years. Money well spent, love it.
You have helped me in solving my problem. So simple and your explanation was clear.Thanks,,Thanks for your idea.
Thank you Joe for the idea for a sharpening jig. Your jig looks fairly simple and practical.
It may be possible to acquire the skill to do a perfect job of sharpening the bit with your bare hands. But that may take years. A jig allows you to reach that level of perfection in hours if not minutes. Sharpening a bit without a jig looks like trying to draw a 12 inch straight line without a ruler.
Joe Johns, your sharpening jig IMHO is nicer than gold. This is mastery. Salute Sir.
I have been using a jig like the one you don't like (Craftsman) and I love it. it keeps the relief exact on each side.
I tried the General many years ago and wasn't able to understand how to set it up properly. I was given a Drill Doctor, the model 500 and the video included with it was clear and I had no trouble with it. As for how easy it is to use....My wife watched the video and set it up in a few minutes to sharpen over 500 drill bits I bought at auction, various sizes, both regular twist drills and carbide tipped drills for masonry and concrete. They all turned out beautifully and she only took a few days to sharpen them. She sold them at her craft shows for 50 cents for bits under 1/4" and a dollar for a bit larger and made a nice bit of change. Drill Doctor is a good tool.
Hi Joe, the best ever......industries like to make everything so difficult and you did it so simple........my hero......greetings from Aruba. Vale.
Sorry, but I'm with Joe, So simple, so easy, I'll be making myself one of these.
Thanks Joe, Well done
I persevered with a Drill Doctor for years. Never got a good result, too much flex in the whole plot..I do 'em by eye now with an angle grinder. Works for me.....
its like reinventing the wheel .. ive tried em all. i still use my first method . a block of wood and my eye. your way i would need several different sized jigs. but its the best and easiest ive seen
Hey..... Don't worry in the least about negative criticism. We all do what we find the best and the easiest way to do things. If the end result is a tool that cuts good, then if standing on our heads got it that way then so be it. I might make up something similar both for drill bits and for lathe tools.... Simple jigs are as good as not so simple jigs.
I have a General 825. It is OK. It will get drill bit cutting lips even.
Hey Joe, I just stumbled a crossed your channel looking for how to videos. I've been throwing away drill bits for years. I've tried sharpening them and never get a good quality cut I'm looking for. I thought about a drill doctor. look at them, almost purchase it and then put it back on the shelf. I know if you add up all the drillbits I've tossed it would probably pay for several drill doctors! Your simple jig is the stuff I like! If you don't have the right tool make it! Thanks!
Joe your jig is good and a lot of people say the drill doctor is better.. i have used the drill doctor and it is very nice for sharpening drill bits for wood. for metal bits you should use oil or water to cool your work so you keep the temper. when you sharpen your bit and you see sparks flying you are heating the edge up past the temper point. for wood this is perfectly fine. for metal try oiling your wheel or wetting it. either way awesome jig and nice job.
oiling your wheel ? WHAT ?? this is NOT a Whetstone where you use mineral oil to sharpen a knife... oiling a piece of sandpaper ? that was his "wheel" in the demo.. now if your wheel is the standard aluminum oxide like with the standard bench grinder, never do something that will compromise the integrity of that type of wheel either !
While the "do not overheat" advice is solid, remember that a slower than a bench grinder, sanding wheel, which has a larger diameter and uses sand paper, produces lower temperatures that the grinding wheel, because is also "pumps" a lot more air into the contact point.But using a small, aquarium pump to direct a concentrated stream of air helps a lot at avoiding overheating, and avoids having to use water or oil.
The best demo on sharpening a drill bit, Thank you.
Drill Doctor much much better, but your jig makes perfect sense - the only thing that is tough is doing both flutes equally with your jig. If it works for you then go for it! I have a drill doctor and after two boxes of dull bits, I broke down and bought one. Fantastic is my only response. Now I have too many drill bits!
This popped up in my feed as there were other similar videos on utube.
I was told Ai is handling what people see. Nice video, well done.
I would have liked to see you test the drill bit by drilling a hole to see how crisp it would be. I'm impressed I imagine there would be no tear out despite not having a backing on the material been drilled. Great little invention.
You're a good problem solving individual. Thanks for the great idea.
"Jesus. What a piece of shit." That had me cracking up. Nice jig and good video!
The only thing I would add to this video would be a demo drilling with a dull bit then after sharpening the bit show how it drills through metal.
That's really good! I made one with a 180 degree 'V' shape but this is easier to use. Thanks for the video...
Thanks for sharing Joe. You could add a magnifying glass and light to sharpen small drill bits.
Just thought of something? If you made the fulcrum of the turning point just below the drill, the action of turning the drill to give clearance would be done automatically and you would not have to move the drill towards the sander by hand to give clearance.
Excellent idea. One commenter above thought the same.
Simple and Easy. Good Job. I just saw it now, it could helped me before , but I will use this method from now. Thanks man. :)
I also believe in keeping it simple. Thanks for sharing. Nice jig
Have been disappointed with the crap jigs from the hardware store and have been looking for something simple and was taken by your approach. Will be making one tomorrow. Only a DIY - no tradesman, so should do me fine. Cheers Joe for sharing your jig.
I love your simple Idea. I started making three jigs out of Corian ( lifetime ) solid countertop material by DuPont.
One is mine and my mechanic gets one, because I have sharpened his drill bits while he works on my car as they frustrate him..
Good jig well thought out. Rather than pushing the drill forward. If you tilt the jig up with the drill on the back edge touching the sandpaper, then come down to the cutting edge, you won't have to move the drill on the jig.
Freehand and lots of practice is still the best! Some people just don’t have it?
Or are just too lazy to try and learn!
I like it, but I would have made a way to quickly clamp the bit down. I would also have made the fixture fit in the track, so you could move it to a fresh place on your sanding disk. After sharpening 6-8 bits, I'll bet your sand paper wears through to the backing plate. Thanks for the great idea,,,
Add some wax to lubricate the pivoting piece and the back plate,and also on the bed that the bit rests on.
Thanks for the video. I don't know about you, but I need to check the angle and if the cutting edges are even. Starrett make a really nice little attachment for their hook rules that attaches a 59 degree stop with measurements marked on it,onto the rule and that lets you check your angle and also check the length of the cutting edges. Fast and simple just hold the drill bit along the rule and look for light at the cutting edge. All the best
It would help if you had the pivot table level each time and did not hit the bit on the sanding block when resetting the bit for the next pass.
Brilliant, this is so simple and effective.
Great idea, thank you!!
It's a really bad idea to use a wood sander on metal IMHO. Compare the hardness of the materials and the intended use of the machine.
Interesting setup. Please tell us something about the disk sander as well.
LOL'' I bought that same piece of crap metal jig myself and have never used it'' Will give your jig a go, looks like it works good'' cheers!
got one of that funny looking bit holder, had it 4 15 years never new how to use it so i got rid of it
that is such a good idea, Joe Johns! standing ovation.
Thanks. Watching this made me rethink my drastically overengineered plans for a knife sharpening jig.
New version just has the sharpening angle cut right off of a block of wood so the blade can be held against that while the hone is run over the remaining flat surface to maintain the angle.
There's something to be said for simplicity. Might add a stiff brush as wear-surface for the hone and magnets and/or rubber underneath but the thing just works.
And WHERE is the "New" version????
Very Nice! I'll take a homemade jig built to spec any day over something so complicated. Haven't bothered learning this skill but my drawer of dull bits is overflowing and my index missing too many important sizes.
Give a man a bit and he'll drill for a day. Give him a jig and.......
I am almost done building your drill bit jig. I appreciated the tour of your workshop. My grinder is mounted on a saw horse table which didn't have a good platform so I took the factory guides off it and made one out of boards. Had to level it since the grinder is on a saw horse table with plywood sheets. In all it is fun to work through it. You set the example and it is much appreciated. Can't wait to sharpen some drill bits. Thank you.
Good morning, I'm from Brazil, I really liked the way you sharpen drills. How many degrees is the lateral slope? Can I sharpen bits from 0.6mm to 2mm? Could you do a demonstration?
He didn't reply so I hope I can help you:
The clearance angle (if that's what you meant) is between 14 and 7 degrees, depending on the size of the drill bit and how hard materials it's intended for. 11 degrees is a normal angle for "normal" drills up to 12 mm and 9 degrees for a little bigger bits. Smaller bits, larger angle.
I havent found any general sharpening device that can sharpen as small bits as you mentioned. The usual sharpening machines and jigs start from about 3 mm. To sharpen these small drills can hardly be done by hand and they are pretty cheap anyway.
Congratulations Joe, this is one of the simplest yet most clever and effective jigs. However one needs to do some more preparatory work especially for drills less than 9mm, or broken ones,otherwise he will end up with funny results. It all has to do with what rotational position you touch the bit on the grinder.Your demonstration bits were big and new enough to touch them correctly by just watching the original line..This is not always possible. I will try uploading a complimentary video.
Your idea is halfway there.
In your video you show the drill bit on top of a pivoting cradle which makes the drill bit moce away from the sander as its pivoted up to grind the relief and the user having to feed the drill bit towards the sander to grind the relief. What if you changed the pivot point and have the drill bit under the pivot point, it would then feed in automatically to grind the relief.
just wanted to let you know theres something even better now the new bench grinders the one tool rest is grooved for a drill bit lay the drill bit on and a twist of the drill done i couldnt get better unless i took it to a pro
I hate to tell you, but the General is much faster, and way more accurate. If you read the instructions, you will see that it is only a matter of bringing the bit into contact with the grinding medium, and swinging it back and forth, no raising and pushing, and it sharpens it exactly to spec.
great idea Joe, Thanks
Thanks, Love the simple functional design. Good job.
jim again thanks sharpin my first drill bit works great had a drill dr the big thing with them if your sharpening lots of bits would keep ya in the poor house buying them sleeves i found you only get 2 or 3 bits and you have to change the sleeve
Large drill bits are very easy to sharpen by hand on the bench grinder, fine stone. But , my precision work require small drill bits for metals, carbon steel, brass, aluminum, stainless steel, copper white metal. How does your rig work on drill bits 1/8 inch diameter and smaller, all the way down to number 60 ?
I have nearly 100 of them waiting for sharpening. Best regards, Patricia,
Drill bits smaller than 1/4" or 3/16" are HARDER to sharpen, either with a jig or machine or by hand. Trying to sharpen such small bits as 1/8 or much smaller is a matter of luck, and those are so inexpensive that it is counter productive to try.
TheMrGorbasa - I think you want to know why the drill is rotated during sharpening...That is to provide a relief angle behind the cutting edge of the drill of ~10 degrees (8~12 degrees is normally used).
Joe........yours is a very good practical idea, and with just a few refinements your simple idea can likely be improved upon to further reduce any required skills or human error.
In the Tubalcain video notice how close his pivot point is to the sander. Your pivot point is a bit farther back, about midway the bit length. This causes more radial swing of tip and a correspondingly greater linear distance the bit must travel (slid) to maintain contact with sander when you pivot/slide. Just wondering if it's possible to incorporate a close pivot somehow working off of an eccentric type cam lobe to eliminate the need to slide the bit inward by hand? Maybe I'll work up a simple drawing on this to see where my idea leads. I suspect the fatal flaw in using a lobed pivot point might be that it only works best for a certain bit diameter............maybe a lobe of adjustable eccentricity would work for all sizes......but then again it complicates your simple solution.
Again, yours is a good (Better) idea. Why you don´t do a video showing it to all of us, please?
P OS is exactly right. Thank you. I thought I lost all my eye/hand coordination when I tried to use it. Junk.
Isn't that paper only for wood sanding? For metal you need a grinding disc. You can get cheap ones to attach to a drill or use a bench grinder. The right tool/material for the job comes to mind.
Ad a stop to the bottom of the drill bit and you may have it.
Drill bits are all about equal sides.
How do you tell if you are grinding more on one side ? With that POS it has a screw to keep the bit the same length on each side. The drill doctor is more perfect. With your home made jig you can get it to work one or two times then your bit is all out of shape.
Hi, thanks for sharing, I recently found the disc sander will be more effective to sharpen stuff... This jus seem to be doing the trick maybe I copy it. Do you make the disc grinder, how many HP, how many rpm, how many HP? Thanks and keep it up
I made the whole sanding station twistedknotwoodshop.com/sanding.htm - 1 1/2 HP - RPM is 1725.
Thanks for the reply, this information will become handy. I'm currently sending a model to a aluminum foundry to make the disc, mine will be for metal, I will chek your video for more information. Keep up the good job!
i was always told if u dont know how to maintain a tool u shouldnt be using it...and that has stood me well in all aspects of life....i was sharpening bits, chisels, knives and even saws wen i was a kid.....ppl buying sharpeners for £300 and still dont know how to use them correctly.....nothing beats the the feel of a tool in ur hand, ur touch is better than and machine will ever be...imho
+Brat4PrimeMinister I know what you're saying and agree, to a point, but your hand can only get you so much precision, once you venture into .0001"/.0025mm land, your hand can't really keep up with a proper machine.
And then you age and your eyes aren't what they once were.
Thanks Joe. Nice way to guide the bit. I especially like the big sanding disc. Where do you get the paper to fit? I left the 9" one my Dad made for me at the old house when we moved and I've been kicking myself since.
I get ALL of my sandpaper and associated items from Industrial Abrasives - www.industrialabrasives.com/
I've been a customer since the mid-90's - besides being super friendly all of their products are top notch and their prices are very good. Another thing about them is you can have sandpaper sizes made that aren't listed in the catalog - now, other companies may do that but I haven't bothered to ask or look around.
Thanks Joe. I'll have to check them out. It's been a long time since I purchased anything from them.
this is a geat idea ! i used to sharpen by hand and got a 50-50 results. made one of these jigs and get 100 percent results
Great! All you need to know when I comes to sharpening bits on a power sander.
Brilliant way to save money. What grit, though?
When a new disc in put on it's 80 grit - after some use sanding wood it probably gets to a worn 100 grit maybe 120.
Building the drill bit jig would have been easier if you gave the dimensions.
Buy a drill point gauge and learn to hand sharpen and go thru your bits and by the 5 th one you will get it
jig is OK except that the bottom of your pivot block should lay flat on your base board and no radius on the front.This will start the sharpening of both sides of bit at same level. please respond! THANK YOU!
nice job and good presentation. i will make one too.
Excellent idea! Thanks
Very handy device. Simple is always best. Take care, be safe!
Awesome, top of the list idea
Where did get the wheel. Had to find large wet wheels. Very good video
I like what made , but cant tell that both sides are the same if adjust scerw it the bottom of your bite
Excellent idea!
Nice idea and you maybe able to sharpen brill bits to drill wood with your little jig just fine; however I don't use those bits on wood I use those types on different types of metal what they were designed for. I cannot see down to a thousandth of an inch so I will use the tool you called junk because your too lazy to set it up. the tool works well and is very accurate if used properly. they have been around for nearly 75 years and mine is under the Craftsman name. I have mine setup on a grinder and it takes just a minute to load a bit grind it razor sharp with the point dead center of the bit
knifesharpen
DS75921 o
His tool would word good if he knew how to use it better. The angle is key, but there is 2 angles per side. When make the first major cut you will notice the blade not hitting is more less on a 90. or straight up. then to do your blade rotate clockwise till the point that was facing up directly matches point on the other side. But I agree with what your saying. Shit like this is to more less get you out a bind. Say at camp need a bit or a buddies place who lives to far to drive home to drill a dam hole and it snaps, tools not with you. If like me there is no way in fucking hell i'll claim defeat, I call Geeter.. you know.. Geeter fuckin Dune..lol
You deserve million like bro thanks
Sharpening small bits with that jig would not work! That 825 might take a few minutes to setup and learn how to use but its does small bits with ease. If you want to sell that 825 I'd take it off your hands anytime.
Couldn't be simpler. Perfect. Difficult to believe.
It shows up the misplaced tech of the production item.
A Great Video, ignore the trolls, I personally loved the pacing and attention to detail. I learned a lot
Would it be possible to add in pin to add the initial registration of the jig to a 90 degree angle before you lift up?
What grit paper do you use, what make of disc sander is that? what size?
+John Olynyk It's worn out 80 grit. The make of disc sander is I Made It In My Shop. The size is 16" - the link to it is www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/sanding.htm
J
I would add a Plexiglas shield to guard against accidentally running hand or fingers into the side of the grinding wheel.
As it is NOT a grinding wheel, but a slower turning SANDING wheel, the risk is very low, althoug painful, but not really all that dangerous. Just use a Little care.
thanx Joe. that looks handy.do one tomorrow
Thanks Joe. Nice video
that's a very good idea and simple too. I do videos too on utube about beekeeping with just common sense approach keep up the great videos.
Don.
Simple and Elegant
What grit and type of sandpaper are you using on the disc sander?
great idea ,
Thanks for sharing
Well , I had seen the video you mentioned and thought that was good, but your jig makes thing easier except one , ie , pushing the drill bit upwards while sharpening it . That seems a bit clumsy but can be easily overcome if we install a push rod attaching to a spring behind the drill bit . The push rod will keep the drill bit touching the grinding wheel while we move it upwards . I hope you understand what I mean .
well done and great idea...thanks for sharing
Clever Design, I will make one, thanks.
DS
Great Jig, thanks for sharing.
Steven Waskewicz y q
Guess who's going to build one of these? I've got a "Drill Doctor", that
"General" thingy and various other contraptions and NONE work worth a tinker's damn. This inspired fixture (you can't say "jig" any longer you know) just might be what we've all been searching for. The only part I missed is how to establish and keep the proper angle between fixture and sanding disk both horizontal and vertically within the fixture and base plate when sharpening. Did I fall asleep? But Thanks anyway! JD
Hey Dan, just watched your Video again and it seems to me that a "stop block" is needed to keep the rocking action to a certain degree of accuracy, thus allowing the point angle to be always the same side flute to flute. What do ya think?
Should read, "the same angle flute to flute". Sorry 'bout that.
the simplest jigs are nomaly the best
this is the exact same motion the drill doctor provides. only problem is the stupid little wheels in it wear and just generally suck. I think i will make one of these jigs for my apex grinder!
excellent friend, thanks for your concept