To help anyone who’s doing this and needs the gasket for the variable timing solenoid I went to Napa auto parts store the part number is 10584 which is a perfect fit..no auto part store had it or carry that gasket.. hope I helped someone and good luck on your repairs! And thank you for making this video to help others save and learn.
Did you still need to do it from the bottom of the cover or did it fit up top? Im thinking i might buy this and put it in from the top as far down as I can and gasket seal it. I'm not taking the cover off again and mines leaking a lot of oil there.
Great video, I loved the part where you pumped out the power steering fluid. Great tip. I was able to get the back reservoir hose off by unbolting the reservoir and removing the back mounting stud and going under the reservoir with long needle nose pliers. Also loosening the passenger motor mounts made getting the back valve cover off very easy.
The best way too remove rear Valve cover, place a piece of wood on a jack and place it under oil pan, remove the three 15mm bolts and 18mm bolt and remove motor mount bracket and lower the engine to clear a/c lines, p/s hose and cowl, also remove ac line mounting bracket. This 20 minutes of extra work will save u hours of time.
Absolutely yes. I tried and tried, and the cover never came off. Decided to lower the motor as you said. Wooosh... the cover came right off. I figure it will make the install faster too. Haven't done it yet. I hear its the harder part.
Thanks for this video. Helped me to get the job done. I took out the engine mount and can't imagine how difficult it was without learning that tip from the comments. Also I disconnected the power steering reservoir from the top with channel lock pliers.
Safety inspects the bolts on the top of the camshafts. VERY VERY IMPORTANT since as the engine ages, they tend to loosen. Do not ignore misfiring on these engines otherwise be ready to junk the vehicle.
I have a 2008 Ford fusion 3.0 and let me tell you I could have absolutely not done the work needed without this video. The pcm was causing the coils on the back side to melt which had taken the spark plug o rings along with them. I figured since I was in this deep I would replace the valve cover gaskets as well. I have never struggled with something as much as I have with the rear valve cover on this car. Whenever I would struggle I would watch your movements and things came right off for me. The hardest part of it all was getting it the valve cover back on. I figured out a little trick to get it back on but it that took me about 1.5-2 hours to accomplish. In the comments im reading that people cannot get it off or get it back on, IT WILL COME OFF but you have to be very patient and try everything you can possibly think of. Well done on this video and thank you for making a video that has saved me hundreds and hundreds of dollars for this repair!
Going around the comments to absolutely recommend lowering the motor for anyone doing this job. Don't even think about it. Right before you loosen those cover bolts, take off the mount bracket and lower the motor. Worth the time.
Great video man! Just did this recently for a customer, and what a beast of a job since the engine bay was nowhere near this well kept.. Couldn't get the EGR valve bolts loose (seized) so i had to slide the intake off with the tube still attached.. I should've charged for pain and suffering 😂. But, undoing the passenger side motor mounts helped clear the rear valve cover.
Another viewer commented on loosening the passenger side engine mount and that is a great idea. Wish I had thought of that. Glad you were successful and thanks for the comment. I would certainly add a line item for pain and suffering. Ha!
These sideways format engines are a real pain in the heinie to do these re and re's on. A 1/2 hour to do one side and the rest of the day to do the back side and final. Same for the plugs. My grandfather told me a story about Henry Ford's head designer coming home to find a mechanic in the sack with his wife and we have been paying for it ever since eh, LOL. You can't tell me that isn't true eh, LOL. Makes ya really miss the 70 and 80's a bunch eh. Good post bud ! At least folks could afford to have these kind of repairs then.
@@shawnglover5768 Every time I get into one of these new fangled machines I have a big box of Band-Aids handy. I end up leaking nearly every time. LOL.
Great video brother, it really helped me out. I watched this and had no issues. Getting the valve cover back on was hell but I got it. Great music too. Thanks
Thank you for this video. Last weekend I did the front valve cover to change the vvt solenoid but struggled to get the power steering reservoir off so I have to go back and do the rear valve cover and now I feel like I can get it done
I really appreciate your video and the detail you put into it. I also wanted to share my experience. I barely managed to get the back cover off and once I did and got it ready to go back on, it would not physically go back in place no matter what I did! I was so frustrated. I ended up having to take the coolant tank loose, unbolting the passenger motor mount, unhooking the ac lines (the system was already discharged from a previous accident that damaged the condenser) and had to use a jack under the oil pan to move the engine up and down enough to squeeze it in place. This is after I ruined the first replacement gasket trying to get it on the first time! One of the most frustrating experiences I've had on what should be a simple gasket replacement!
I appreciate the feedback. That rear cover is tricky for sure. Sorry you had to disassemble so much to get it back on but glad you got it done. Thanks for watching!
Tilt the back valve cover up enough to get an 8mm wrench and take the the vvt solenoid loose and lift the VC off together. Came right off. I tore my hands and arms up trying to get it off. Just remember to put them back on the same way it came out.
Yeah.. I think I'll just deal with a leaking rear valve cover for the rest of the life of the car. Keep the oil topped off and take my chances. Now way in hell I'm gonna attempt all that bs! Lol
Awesome video. I found if you remove the rear ps tank stud, you can twist and move the tank over enough to get vice grips on the hose clamp and pull it off without having to use that special tool.
I tried it twice in the last two years. I took the intake manifold, EGR valve, but I did not remove the Power Steering reservoir. Mine is not that bad it only has the oil pan slightly wet. I have been using high mileage oil, which definitely slowed down the leak. I have had the problem for three years. I believe I shall have to do that job when it starts to drip. Your video will definitely help. Thank you!
By the way, do we have to take off the power steering hose from the bottom? I do not have the hose clamp you used in the video. I hope the job can be done without taking the hose from the bottom. Your engine looks like new and the bottom is also very clean. Thank you!
You can try that but the rubber hose is full of fluid. So, you may end up with a mess on the valve cover. Let me know how it goes if you try it. Thanks!
Haha the music, the editing cuts and tips were absolutely flawless and makes doing this procedure seem much less nerve racking with a clear step by step visual and HD too! I will definitely save a couple hundred dollars doing this myself! Dealer put me at $1,100 to do this, not anymore I cancelled the appointment! The rubber bushings on those valve cover bolts, are they reusable? Or it better to replace them?
Great video David! I'm working on an oil leak on my son's 2007 3.0l Fusion. Already dropped the oil pan but noticed additional leaking higher up above the LH exhaust manifold and to the right near the belt.
I got the gasket kit from felpro. The spark plug tube seals were fine but the gasket lacked the curves for 3 bolt holes for the rear cover. Gasket didn't fit. 4 other brands on Rock Auto had the same issue. Just stick with OEM ford parts folks
You don’t have to replace the bolts. The gasket kits include new seals for the bolts but I didn’t want to deal with cutting off the old rubber and then forcing on the new seals. It would certainly be more inexpensive though.
Thank the heavens. Pheww. I thought I was gonna have to order new bolts and leave the car dismantled 2 weeks. The Fel Pro kit comes with the main gaskets, the spark plug well gaskets, the bolt seals, and four other seals I have yet to identify jeje. But the job is going. This video is a Godsend.
28:55 Removing the back valve cover what a 100% pain, until it wasn't. The cheat code.....evacuate the coolant lines and disconnect them. You valve covers will slide on and off as easy as the fronts do.
How many miles on engine when you needed to replace valve cover gaskets.... Also did you happen to know about what a repair garage would charge on labor.... Great video
Thank you for the video! Do you have an oil leak? FordTechMakuloco, a famous Ford Master Technician on RUclips, mentioned that the 3.0 was notorious for oil leak from the T joint, which is on the passenger side right below the alternator. I have been having a wet oil pan for more than two years now. At first, I thought the problem was caused by a leaky valve cover gasket, but I am not sure now. I can't see whether the rear valve cover area is wet, but I can see the lower areas (T joint) are wet. I can't find a video about how to fix the T joint leak.
Not sure... I think the failed coil kills the driver circuitry in the pcm. Usually they can be repaired but not always. The company I used was called Circuit Board Medics. It looks like they are offering Motorcraft replacement coils and spark plugs now. circuitboardmedics.com/ford-pcm-repairs/
@@DavidJWarEagle Thank you for the info. I'm watching you struggle with that back valve cover and man I feel more frustrated than you probably were lol!
This happened to my 2007 mercury milan , I used the same company to repair the computer .. I didn't know it was because of the failed coil... Very interesting
You can use the fel pro gaskets for the vvt solenoid. The smaller one is correct you just have to put RTV around the gasket and then put grease or oil around the inside so it slides around the solenoid easily
The rubber seals had perished. Rather than buying new bolts/studs there are valve cover gasket kits that include new seals for the bolts. The caveat is that you have to cut off the old seals and then force on the new seals. I didn’t want to fuss with that so I replaced them.
Thank you, I’m going to attempt this now. My valve covers were leaking for awhile now and I’ve just been keeping an eye on it and topping off the oil but it’s to the point where it’s dripping considerably. The rear cover just looks.. so intimidating... and would probably take me at least 2 days possibly longer. I was planning to go to a junkyard and start ripping the engine apart and learn to do it that way lol but I will refer to this video instead, so I’m only doing it once and for real. If I have questions I’ll ask em. That was such a handy tip with the valve cover studs/bolts, they snap into place. Are they a one time use? Do you have to purchase new ones? Thanks!
You’re welcome! You can either buy new bolts from Ford or Fel-Pro makes a kit to replace all of the rubber pieces. The Fel-Pro kit will be significantly less expensive but will require a little more time to cut off the old rubber from the bolts and reinstall the new rubber pieces. I chose to buy new bolts but they around $7 USD a piece from the Ford dealer. The main reason I bought the stuff from the dealer is that the Fel-Pro gaskets are blue and I wanted it to look OEM. Silly, I know. I should have all the Ford part numbers in the description of each video for your reference. As far as I know they don’t sell new rubber gaskets for the VCT solenoids but mine have been fine to reuse. I just left them in the valve covers. I think the Fel-Pro kit includes those. Try to stay patient with it and take a break if you need to. Good luck!
Great video, great editing and clear audio. Very helpful and encouraging. I would like to share that when I look in the Ford dealership for the Spark plug well gaskets, I get that the part number 3M4Z-6C527-AA is not correct for my 08 Mercury Milan. Instead I get 6E5Z-6C527-EB. I wonder if the difference is because my car is a Mercury or the year? In any case, thanks for putting this together, it truly helps to understand the "gotchas" that I wouldn't have known by simply looking at the engine and complexity of it all. Look forward to many more videos. BTW, did you ever get the oil pan gasket done? Is there a video coming? :-)
I don’t know for sure on the part number but it very well could be that yours is newer and a Mercury. I would use what is recommended by Ford to be safe. It looks like the front exhaust manifold has to be removed to remove the oil pan, and the rusty manifold bolts are making me lean towards hiring that job out. I’m sure there will be other projects to make videos about. Thank you for the kind words.
What mistake did you make with the bolts on the back valve cover gasket bc I’m about to change my valve cover gaskets and I don’t wanna make the mistake you’re saying you made.
That’s the PCV valve and you turn it counter-clockwise to remove. I did an early video about replacing it so please excuse the poor editing. ruclips.net/video/xJGy4VS-t5c/видео.html
Hey David, Ive been following your video step by step. I've come to a dilemma in regards to getting the power steering hose off the elbow from underneath. Is there a reason why you didn't remove the hose from the top where it goes in the spout of the reservoir?.
@@DavidJWarEagle Hey david, something else I wanted to ask you. I noticed when you go to take off the bolts that hold down the cover, it looks as if the air intake manifold has been removed all the way from where you had it suspending earlier on a bungee cord. Did you take it off all the way?
I completed the job in the evening over a few days after work, probably 8 to 10 hours with shooting video. I wanted to flush all the power steering fluid but the main goal is to lower the fluid level in the tube between the reservoir and the pump. This will prevent a mess when the reservoir is removed. I don’t see any way to avoid draining some power steering fluid but you might be able to drain less than I did.
I couldn’t figure out what a replacement part number was for that seal at a local Ford dealer. Hopefully the community can figure that out and let us know.
If memory serves me there is a bracket near the power steering reservoir on the back that holds the A/C line. I pushed/bent that towards the rear of the vehicle to provide more clearance. I think I showed that in the video.
Going around the comments to absolutely recommend lowering the motor for anyone doing this job. Don't even think about it. Right before you loosen those cover bolts, take off the mount bracket and lower the motor. Worth the time.
No bleeder valve but I did use a hand vacuum pump and PS reservoir cap to draw a vacuum while turning the wheels lock to lock. That worked well to get the air out.
I had already pulled the coils when I realized that I need to remove the power steering reservoir. Not ideal because the injectors were firing but it was okay. There is also a cam sensor on each head that can be unplugged but the front one is hard to get to if memory serves me.
@@DavidJWarEagle I got it all back together but now it's idling incredibly bad and throwing a bunch of codes... I'm assuming I just forgot a connector and I'm gonna go through and check everything tomorrow.
Going around the comments to absolutely recommend lowering the motor for anyone doing this job. Don't even think about it. Right before you loosen those cover bolts, take off the mount bracket and lower the motor. Worth the time.
To help anyone who’s doing this and needs the gasket for the variable timing solenoid I went to Napa auto parts store the part number is 10584 which is a perfect fit..no auto part store had it or carry that gasket.. hope I helped someone and good luck on your repairs! And thank you for making this video to help others save and learn.
Did you still need to do it from the bottom of the cover or did it fit up top? Im thinking i might buy this and put it in from the top as far down as I can and gasket seal it. I'm not taking the cover off again and mines leaking a lot of oil there.
Great video, I loved the part where you pumped out the power steering fluid. Great tip.
I was able to get the back reservoir hose off by unbolting the reservoir and removing the back mounting stud and going under the reservoir with long needle nose pliers. Also loosening the passenger motor mounts made getting the back valve cover off very easy.
Oh, loosening the passenger side motor mount! Great idea, wish I had thought of that. I’m glad the video was helpful!
Going around the comments to absolutely recommend this for anyone doing this job. Don't even think about it. Lower the motor. Worth the extra 20 mins.
The best way too remove rear Valve cover, place a piece of wood on a jack and place it under oil pan, remove the three 15mm bolts and 18mm bolt and remove motor mount bracket and lower the engine to clear a/c lines, p/s hose and cowl, also remove ac line mounting bracket. This 20 minutes of extra work will save u hours of time.
That’s something to try. Thanks for the suggestion.
Absolutely yes. I tried and tried, and the cover never came off. Decided to lower the motor as you said. Wooosh... the cover came right off. I figure it will make the install faster too. Haven't done it yet. I hear its the harder part.
Thanks for this video. Helped me to get the job done. I took out the engine mount and can't imagine how difficult it was without learning that tip from the comments. Also I disconnected the power steering reservoir from the top with channel lock pliers.
Glad the video helped you out. I do wish I had learned about the engine mount/lowering the engine before hand. Thanks for the kind words.
Safety inspects the bolts on the top of the camshafts. VERY VERY IMPORTANT since as the engine ages, they tend to loosen. Do not ignore misfiring on these engines otherwise be ready to junk the vehicle.
I have a 2008 Ford fusion 3.0 and let me tell you I could have absolutely not done the work needed without this video. The pcm was causing the coils on the back side to melt which had taken the spark plug o rings along with them. I figured since I was in this deep I would replace the valve cover gaskets as well. I have never struggled with something as much as I have with the rear valve cover on this car. Whenever I would struggle I would watch your movements and things came right off for me. The hardest part of it all was getting it the valve cover back on. I figured out a little trick to get it back on but it that took me about 1.5-2 hours to accomplish. In the comments im reading that people cannot get it off or get it back on, IT WILL COME OFF but you have to be very patient and try everything you can possibly think of. Well done on this video and thank you for making a video that has saved me hundreds and hundreds of dollars for this repair!
Wonderful to learn this. Thanks for the kind words.
Going around the comments to absolutely recommend lowering the motor for anyone doing this job. Don't even think about it. Right before you loosen those cover bolts, take off the mount bracket and lower the motor. Worth the time.
Thank you, couldnt have done it without you! Didnt realize you had to take it all apart to change the vvt solenoid on the fusion 3.0
Glad the video was helpful! Thanks!
I just completed my rear cover today! What a pain taking off the reservoir and the valve cover itself! I hope it doesn't leak and smell anymore
Nice! Glad the video was helpful.
Great video man! Just did this recently for a customer, and what a beast of a job since the engine bay was nowhere near this well kept.. Couldn't get the EGR valve bolts loose (seized) so i had to slide the intake off with the tube still attached.. I should've charged for pain and suffering 😂. But, undoing the passenger side motor mounts helped clear the rear valve cover.
Another viewer commented on loosening the passenger side engine mount and that is a great idea. Wish I had thought of that. Glad you were successful and thanks for the comment. I would certainly add a line item for pain and suffering. Ha!
These sideways format engines are a real pain in the heinie to do these re and re's on. A 1/2 hour to do one side and the rest of the day to do the back side and final. Same for the plugs. My grandfather told me a story about Henry Ford's head designer coming home to find a mechanic in the sack with his wife and we have been paying for it ever since eh, LOL. You can't tell me that isn't true eh, LOL. Makes ya really miss the 70 and 80's a bunch eh. Good post bud ! At least folks could afford to have these kind of repairs then.
lmao
@@divulgewithchip1099 How true eh, LOL.
😂😂😂😂😩
@@shawnglover5768 Every time I get into one of these new fangled machines I have a big box of Band-Aids handy. I end up leaking nearly every time. LOL.
Great video brother, it really helped me out. I watched this and had no issues. Getting the valve cover back on was hell but I got it. Great music too. Thanks
Hey Daniel, Thanks for the kind words and I’m glad the video helped you get the job done!
Thank you for this video. Last weekend I did the front valve cover to change the vvt solenoid but struggled to get the power steering reservoir off so I have to go back and do the rear valve cover and now I feel like I can get it done
You’re welcome and glad the videos helped you. Thank you for watching!
I really appreciate your video and the detail you put into it. I also wanted to share my experience. I barely managed to get the back cover off and once I did and got it ready to go back on, it would not physically go back in place no matter what I did! I was so frustrated. I ended up having to take the coolant tank loose, unbolting the passenger motor mount, unhooking the ac lines (the system was already discharged from a previous accident that damaged the condenser) and had to use a jack under the oil pan to move the engine up and down enough to squeeze it in place. This is after I ruined the first replacement gasket trying to get it on the first time! One of the most frustrating experiences I've had on what should be a simple gasket replacement!
I appreciate the feedback. That rear cover is tricky for sure. Sorry you had to disassemble so much to get it back on but glad you got it done. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video.
Update: you can order the PCT seal by itself from Ford, I just got one this week with my other seals.
Excellent. Can you share the part number?
Yes I will soon. Also, is there a PCV on the right side of the FRONT cover? I didn’t see that messed with in the part 2 video?
Tilt the back valve cover up enough to get an 8mm wrench and take the the vvt solenoid loose and lift the VC off together. Came right off. I tore my hands and arms up trying to get it off. Just remember to put them back on the same way it came out.
Yeah.. I think I'll just deal with a leaking rear valve cover for the rest of the life of the car. Keep the oil topped off and take my chances. Now way in hell I'm gonna attempt all that bs! Lol
Awesome video. I found if you remove the rear ps tank stud, you can twist and move the tank over enough to get vice grips on the hose clamp and pull it off without having to use that special tool.
Good idea. Thanks for the suggestion.
I tried it twice in the last two years. I took the intake manifold, EGR valve, but I did not remove the Power Steering reservoir. Mine is not that bad it only has the oil pan slightly wet. I have been using high mileage oil, which definitely slowed down the leak. I have had the problem for three years. I believe I shall have to do that job when it starts to drip. Your video will definitely help.
Thank you!
You’re welcome and thanks for watching!
By the way, do we have to take off the power steering hose from the bottom? I do not have the hose clamp you used in the video. I hope the job can be done without taking the hose from the bottom. Your engine looks like new and the bottom is also very clean. Thank you!
You can try that but the rubber hose is full of fluid. So, you may end up with a mess on the valve cover. Let me know how it goes if you try it. Thanks!
@@DavidJWarEagle I have no plan to do it in the near future. I can use a plier to hold the hose. Thank you again!
Haha the music, the editing cuts and tips were absolutely flawless and makes doing this procedure seem much less nerve racking with a clear step by step visual and HD too! I will definitely save a couple hundred dollars doing this myself! Dealer put me at $1,100 to do this, not anymore I cancelled the appointment! The rubber bushings on those valve cover bolts, are they reusable? Or it better to replace them?
I would replace them so there won’t be any leaks for the foreseeable future. Thank you for the kind words!
Great video David! I'm working on an oil leak on my son's 2007 3.0l Fusion. Already dropped the oil pan but noticed additional leaking higher up above the LH exhaust manifold and to the right near the belt.
Thanks Yogi! I might try cleaning the area well and check again, after the oil pan is back on of course.
Excellent video. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this
You’re welcome! Thank you for the kind words.
I got the gasket kit from felpro. The spark plug tube seals were fine but the gasket lacked the curves for 3 bolt holes for the rear cover. Gasket didn't fit. 4 other brands on Rock Auto had the same issue. Just stick with OEM ford parts folks
You have to replace the valve cover bolts when you change the gasket?
You don’t have to replace the bolts. The gasket kits include new seals for the bolts but I didn’t want to deal with cutting off the old rubber and then forcing on the new seals. It would certainly be more inexpensive though.
Thank the heavens. Pheww. I thought I was gonna have to order new bolts and leave the car dismantled 2 weeks. The Fel Pro kit comes with the main gaskets, the spark plug well gaskets, the bolt seals, and four other seals I have yet to identify jeje. But the job is going. This video is a Godsend.
28:55 Removing the back valve cover what a 100% pain, until it wasn't. The cheat code.....evacuate the coolant lines and disconnect them. You valve covers will slide on and off as easy as the fronts do.
La
How many miles on engine when you needed to replace valve cover gaskets.... Also did you happen to know about what a repair garage would charge on labor.... Great video
I’m not sure what a repair shop would charge but this engine had about 125K miles, if memory serves me. Thanks for the question!
Thank you for the video! Do you have an oil leak? FordTechMakuloco, a famous Ford Master Technician on RUclips, mentioned that the 3.0 was notorious for oil leak from the T joint, which is on the passenger side right below the alternator. I have been having a wet oil pan for more than two years now. At first, I thought the problem was caused by a leaky valve cover gasket, but I am not sure now. I can't see whether the rear valve cover area is wet, but I can see the lower areas (T joint) are wet. I can't find a video about how to fix the T joint leak.
I don’t think so but I will look at this area the next time I change the oil.
Hi. How to test the pvc valve for that engine??
I have an 06 Mercury Milan with the same engine. Was not aware of the bad coil computer failure issue. Why is that?
Not sure... I think the failed coil kills the driver circuitry in the pcm. Usually they can be repaired but not always. The company I used was called Circuit Board Medics. It looks like they are offering Motorcraft replacement coils and spark plugs now.
circuitboardmedics.com/ford-pcm-repairs/
Also, I have no affiliation with that company.
@@DavidJWarEagle Thank you for the info. I'm watching you struggle with that back valve cover and man I feel more frustrated than you probably were lol!
You’re welcome. It was challenging for sure. Thanks for watching. 👍
This happened to my 2007 mercury milan , I used the same company to repair the computer .. I didn't know it was because of the failed coil... Very interesting
You can use the fel pro gaskets for the vvt solenoid. The smaller one is correct you just have to put RTV around the gasket and then put grease or oil around the inside so it slides around the solenoid easily
Why did he change the bolts and studs?
The rubber seals had perished. Rather than buying new bolts/studs there are valve cover gasket kits that include new seals for the bolts. The caveat is that you have to cut off the old seals and then force on the new seals. I didn’t want to fuss with that so I replaced them.
Is there a need to remove the resivor
Thank you, I’m going to attempt this now. My valve covers were leaking for awhile now and I’ve just been keeping an eye on it and topping off the oil but it’s to the point where it’s dripping considerably. The rear cover just looks.. so intimidating... and would probably take me at least 2 days possibly longer. I was planning to go to a junkyard and start ripping the engine apart and learn to do it that way lol but I will refer to this video instead, so I’m only doing it once and for real. If I have questions I’ll ask em. That was such a handy tip with the valve cover studs/bolts, they snap into place. Are they a one time use? Do you have to purchase new ones?
Thanks!
You’re welcome! You can either buy new bolts from Ford or Fel-Pro makes a kit to replace all of the rubber pieces. The Fel-Pro kit will be significantly less expensive but will require a little more time to cut off the old rubber from the bolts and reinstall the new rubber pieces. I chose to buy new bolts but they around $7 USD a piece from the Ford dealer. The main reason I bought the stuff from the dealer is that the Fel-Pro gaskets are blue and I wanted it to look OEM. Silly, I know.
I should have all the Ford part numbers in the description of each video for your reference. As far as I know they don’t sell new rubber gaskets for the VCT solenoids but mine have been fine to reuse. I just left them in the valve covers. I think the Fel-Pro kit includes those.
Try to stay patient with it and take a break if you need to. Good luck!
Great video, great editing and clear audio. Very helpful and encouraging. I would like to share that when I look in the Ford dealership for the Spark plug well gaskets, I get that the part number 3M4Z-6C527-AA is not correct for my 08 Mercury Milan. Instead I get 6E5Z-6C527-EB. I wonder if the difference is because my car is a Mercury or the year? In any case, thanks for putting this together, it truly helps to understand the "gotchas" that I wouldn't have known by simply looking at the engine and complexity of it all. Look forward to many more videos. BTW, did you ever get the oil pan gasket done? Is there a video coming? :-)
I don’t know for sure on the part number but it very well could be that yours is newer and a Mercury. I would use what is recommended by Ford to be safe.
It looks like the front exhaust manifold has to be removed to remove the oil pan, and the rusty manifold bolts are making me lean towards hiring that job out. I’m sure there will be other projects to make videos about. Thank you for the kind words.
How do you know that it was the valve cover leaking ?????????
The rear exhaust manifold had oil on it across the top near the valve cover. Thank you for the question.
What mistake did you make with the bolts on the back valve cover gasket bc I’m about to change my valve cover gaskets and I don’t wanna make the mistake you’re saying you made.
Hi Kyle, what is the timestamp for the part you’re asking about?
37:30 what is the part with blue tape you removed? Not a pcv valve,? Maybe just a breather?
That’s the PCV valve and you turn it counter-clockwise to remove. I did an early video about replacing it so please excuse the poor editing. ruclips.net/video/xJGy4VS-t5c/видео.html
Hey David, Ive been following your video step by step. I've come to a dilemma in regards to getting the power steering hose off the elbow from underneath. Is there a reason why you didn't remove the hose from the top where it goes in the spout of the reservoir?.
I didn’t want the hose to be in the way while pulling the cover and working in that area but you can certainly give that a shot.
@@DavidJWarEagle Thank you so much for your reply David. I didn't know if it was because the spout was integrated into the hose or what
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
@@DavidJWarEagle Hey david, something else I wanted to ask you. I noticed when you go to take off the bolts that hold down the cover, it looks as if the air intake manifold has been removed all the way from where you had it suspending earlier on a bungee cord. Did you take it off all the way?
I think I did remove it so that I could work from the driver’s side also, but it’s been a while since I shot that video.
Did you end up replacing the cam shaft gasket?? I watched it two times in case I missed you doing it, but I didn’t catch you replacing it.
I didn’t. My camshaft seal wasn’t leaking so I left it alone.
@@DavidJWarEagle I really appreciate you replying!! Thanks for the notice! (:
You bet. Hope the video was helpful.
How long did this take you and I'd it completely necessary to empty the power steering fluid?
I completed the job in the evening over a few days after work, probably 8 to 10 hours with shooting video. I wanted to flush all the power steering fluid but the main goal is to lower the fluid level in the tube between the reservoir and the pump. This will prevent a mess when the reservoir is removed. I don’t see any way to avoid draining some power steering fluid but you might be able to drain less than I did.
Can't get vvt sol seal over the it ?
I couldn’t figure out what a replacement part number was for that seal at a local Ford dealer. Hopefully the community can figure that out and let us know.
I did everything you did but I can’t get the valve cover off any ideas
It’s getting stuck on the ac lines
If memory serves me there is a bracket near the power steering reservoir on the back that holds the A/C line. I pushed/bent that towards the rear of the vehicle to provide more clearance. I think I showed that in the video.
Going around the comments to absolutely recommend lowering the motor for anyone doing this job. Don't even think about it. Right before you loosen those cover bolts, take off the mount bracket and lower the motor. Worth the time.
Same as mercury Milan?
Yes, as far as I know.
How did you get the power steering resovoir tube in the back on agian
I went back under the car and pushed it back on, made sure to slide the clamp back over the hose first.
Alright thanks any chance there’s a bleeder valve for the power steering or do I just have to turn it lock to lock until the air bleeds out
No bleeder valve but I did use a hand vacuum pump and PS reservoir cap to draw a vacuum while turning the wheels lock to lock. That worked well to get the air out.
How did you disable the engine from running
I had already pulled the coils when I realized that I need to remove the power steering reservoir. Not ideal because the injectors were firing but it was okay. There is also a cam sensor on each head that can be unplugged but the front one is hard to get to if memory serves me.
@@DavidJWarEagle Thank You!👊🏿
You are welcome! Thanks for the question.
I cant for the life of my get that rear valve cover back on. I accidentally tore the new gasket while trying to get it in.
Sorry to learn that. I tried to repeat the motion to take it off but in reverse, and I tried to be as gentle as possible. It is tricky for sure.
@@DavidJWarEagle I got it all back together but now it's idling incredibly bad and throwing a bunch of codes... I'm assuming I just forgot a connector and I'm gonna go through and check everything tomorrow.
@@Crackisntwack80 good now?
I did the same thing
Going around the comments to absolutely recommend lowering the motor for anyone doing this job. Don't even think about it. Right before you loosen those cover bolts, take off the mount bracket and lower the motor. Worth the time.
23:45 part numbers
YOUR CAR IS VERY CLEAN. I BET U DON'T LIVE UP NORTH.
This is true but I also clean the engine bay at least once per year, usually twice per year (early spring and late fall).
the rear cover video has 3x more views than the front cover vid ... i wonder why lol
Ha-ha! Some say he’s still removing the rear valve cover to this day.
Who the hell designed this POS. That rear cover is such a pain.