Always was told plug gap should be between 052-056?. I’m currently using motorcraft asf42c copper plugs gapped .054. Runs perfect this is a ‘92lx 5.0 hatch
They are done with a chip tune. The interactive device I am using is a Moates quarterhorse. Unfortunately chips have become in very short supply so that game may be ending.
Loved that I found this channel, very informative exactly what I was looking for on stock configuration. Could you tell me the plugs you used part number thanks 0.45 gap is correct
It’s really only necessary on the dyno. I like to have one installed if the car has forced induction, but the most important aftermarket gauges for any NA Foxbody are oil pressure and coolant temperature in that order. The factory oil pressure gauge essentially tells you nothing. If you race it, you need a real tach and a shift light too because the factory tach is brutally inaccurate at higher RPM.
Hey there. I’m stumped and wonder what your thoughts are. I’m having an issue where my ‘87 GT starts great and idles great when cold starting. As soon as I turn it off and try to restart, it cranks and cranks but won’t start. If I give it gas it will start but runs rough. I’ve checked fuel pressure, timing, and TPS voltage. All is perfect, 38lbs, 12 degrees and 0.96v. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, TFI module and IAC with others that I have on the shelf. None of these fixed the issue. I checked the temp of each cylinder, at the Headers and all cylinders are hot when running. So I don’t think have a dead injector, wire or plug. My computer was rebuilt at FoxResto a couple months ago and it didn’t start acting up until about 250 miles after it was reinstalled. I ran a code reader on it and didn’t get any codes except for emissions stuff because I’ve taken it all off. Thoughts? As always, great video for us shade tree enthusiasts.
Is this still a speed density car? I saw a guy recently saying that his cap and wires were so leaky that they were interfering with his TFI and causing it to run poorly. If you just let it run does it eventually act up or only after a restart?These kind of problems can be hard to sept out in person, never mind from a symptom list over the internet.
@@tecmotiondyno Thanks for the reply. It has been converted to mass air. It is only causing an issue when starting it warm. I think I may have found the issue. I replaced the engine coolant temp sensor but that didn’t fix it. Next I checked fuel pressure and it would slowly drop with the key on and engine off. I pulled the vacuum line off the regulator and fuel dripped out. I think the regulator is bad. I checked my spark plugs and they are all fouled with black suet.
If you didn’t disconnect the battery to reset the keep alive memory (kams) that stores the fuel trims would make sense why your running rich when loose plugs were drawing in more air the ecu composited for that You can reset the kams in BE with car running
@@tecmotiondyno true for idle i assume you have a afr gauge stock form they do run rich at wot low 12afr if I remember I’m no expert Check out leech motorsports channel helped me under stand Binary Editor more
Most of them that I have seen, which is a LOT, didn’t run quite this rich in stock trim. It looked good all through cruise with little fuel trim required, but at WOT it was too rich for best power. Also, if you want to know the truth, the fuel trims don’t enter into the equation at WOT for the factory PCM. At WOT it ignores the O2 sensors and any learned trims and runs purely open loop based on the pre programmed tables and functions and the signal from the MAF.
@@tecmotiondyno that is correct and at wot the fuel base open loop file I think at 180 degrees and 80 load and up it’s 12.35 afr Anyway great videos can’t wait to see what’s next
The happiest part of this particular test is the confirmation that this engine is basically working fine and ready for next steps. Stay tuned for the 10 minute tune up!
@@tecmotiondyno, My foxbody currently has UR45GP plugs in it, would that be the correct plug for it? That’s what the previous owner had in it and they seemed to have a good tan colour, if not,what would you put in it?
If it has stock heads they should be fine - Those are platinum and would not be my first choice, but they do have the advantage of lasting longer and on a stocker you aren't likely to run into a pile of problems that a platinum plug might cause. Gap them 0.045" for a stock NA application.
Clint Garrity's Binary Editor and a Moates Quarterhorse. Unfortunately, Craig Moates threw in the towel in November and you can no longer buy that hardware.
Really enjoy the videos, years ago I remember the "10 minute Tune Up" and other small mods like Redline fluids, etc. Does anyone still use those fluids?
I did and dynoed the 10 minute tune up on this car, so that video is coming. As I am working through those dyno sessions I am finding that each of these steps seems better as a standalone video rather than putting every change into one video, and I suspect that it is a little easier to get your mind around one change at a time. I was surprised at the result here, and I suspect that the result would have been different if this was an upgraded car. It just goes to show that the stock ignition system is good enough to overcome quite a few real problems I guess!
Nice video man 👌 I'd like to learn more about flat top pistons and piston to valve interference. Maybe you could cover it in a future video? Thanks again I'll be watching.
Another great video. Is there a video where u explain what is actually needed. Example vacuumed lines / EGR ? I got a 89 that just don’t seem to be running great. Going threw all your videos and trying to get it figured out.
I'm not sure that I quite understand your question? Do you mean for the tune up or to get one of these cars to run right in general? This video has a few of the really common mistakes that I see if you haven't seen it yet: ruclips.net/video/-W5QwwIAhv4/видео.html
@@tecmotiondyno well I guess what I was meaning is. Correct rout of vacume lines. Also if car has plate where egr was at. And plug is just tapped up. Can that be a cause of issues ? I see a lot of videos of people eliminating stuff like EGR & Some vacuum lines.
I love the OG mechanics that you know have seen some silly things in vehicles over the years. It’s amazing how resistant the older vehicles were to general maintenance neglect. The ecu in the Fox Mustangs was very good at compensating for problems and was not like the new age vehicles that throw codes or kill power at the slightest issue. If a new vehicle had plugs like this it would no doubt be throwing a cel and misfire code. It’s also amazing the power was unaffected by the horrible spark this vehicle was putting out. I would say I’m sure even though the dyno doesn’t show it this vehicle idles and drives a lot better overall because of the tune up he did. Looks like an HCI setup and tune would be the best route for some good power. Should be able to pick up 60-80 or more rwhp with a good set up if not more. It really woke up my 93 when I replaced the heads intake and cam. Good informative video.
One thing to keep in mind is that guys do heads, cam, intake, AND a supercharger, and the stock ignition system usually still works with those combinations, or with just an upgraded coil. The stock ignition is much more powerful than the anemic stock powerplant required, and that's probably why we didn't get any power improvements when upgrading from the really terrible, worn out, and mismatched components that were on the car - the junky parts just didn't degrade it below the basic requirements of the stock engine. If the car had a bunch of power upgrades on it, changing out these bad ignition components would almost certainly have made a difference. An H/C/I setup would be a great way start with this car to turn it into a really fun cruiser that would seem contemporary in terms of performance.
![FendiDa Rappa - Clock Dat ft. Shamar Marco [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3NBU8KHdxYY/mqdefault.jpg)
Your the man! Those UR5’s are for stock heads right?
Yes. They are right for a bone stock car like this. Very wrong for an aftermarket aluminum headed car!
@@tecmotiondyno autozone sold me motorcraft sp450-x copper will these work on stock heads ?
Always was told plug gap should be between 052-056?. I’m currently using motorcraft asf42c copper plugs gapped .054. Runs perfect this is a ‘92lx 5.0 hatch
What do you plug your computer into to tune it because it's not like the modem cars they people plug into to the obd under the dash
They are done with a chip tune. The interactive device I am using is a Moates quarterhorse. Unfortunately chips have become in very short supply so that game may be ending.
Loved that I found this channel, very informative exactly what I was looking for on stock configuration. Could you tell me the plugs you used part number thanks 0.45 gap is correct
This car got NGK UR5.
@@tecmotiondyno thanks for the reply, I am with this channel. I have a 60,000km all original 88 lx vert 1-32 in the paint and trim code.
Nice. I have always loved these cars, and now it seems maybe the rest of the world is starting to catch up!
do you recommend a wide band even on a stock fox?
It’s really only necessary on the dyno. I like to have one installed if the car has forced induction, but the most important aftermarket gauges for any NA Foxbody are oil pressure and coolant temperature in that order. The factory oil pressure gauge essentially tells you nothing. If you race it, you need a real tach and a shift light too because the factory tach is brutally inaccurate at higher RPM.
Hey there. I’m stumped and wonder what your thoughts are. I’m having an issue where my ‘87 GT starts great and idles great when cold starting. As soon as I turn it off and try to restart, it cranks and cranks but won’t start. If I give it gas it will start but runs rough. I’ve checked fuel pressure, timing, and TPS voltage. All is perfect, 38lbs, 12 degrees and 0.96v. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, TFI module and IAC with others that I have on the shelf. None of these fixed the issue. I checked the temp of each cylinder, at the Headers and all cylinders are hot when running. So I don’t think have a dead injector, wire or plug. My computer was rebuilt at FoxResto a couple months ago and it didn’t start acting up until about 250 miles after it was reinstalled. I ran a code reader on it and didn’t get any codes except for emissions stuff because I’ve taken it all off. Thoughts? As always, great video for us shade tree enthusiasts.
Is this still a speed density car? I saw a guy recently saying that his cap and wires were so leaky that they were interfering with his TFI and causing it to run poorly. If you just let it run does it eventually act up or only after a restart?These kind of problems can be hard to sept out in person, never mind from a symptom list over the internet.
@@tecmotiondyno Thanks for the reply. It has been converted to mass air. It is only causing an issue when starting it warm. I think I may have found the issue. I replaced the engine coolant temp sensor but that didn’t fix it. Next I checked fuel pressure and it would slowly drop with the key on and engine off. I pulled the vacuum line off the regulator and fuel dripped out. I think the regulator is bad. I checked my spark plugs and they are all fouled with black suet.
One thing is for sure, the regulator shouldn’t do that. Fix the stuff that you know is broken, then reevaluate.
If you didn’t disconnect the battery to reset the keep alive memory (kams) that stores the fuel trims would make sense why your running rich when loose plugs were drawing in more air the ecu composited for that
You can reset the kams in BE with car running
If you watch the datalog you can see that the long term fuel trim is “1”, which means no trim. Fuel trims are not the problem here.
@@tecmotiondyno true for idle i assume you have a afr gauge stock form they do run rich at wot low 12afr if I remember I’m no expert
Check out leech motorsports channel helped me under stand Binary Editor more
Most of them that I have seen, which is a LOT, didn’t run quite this rich in stock trim. It looked good all through cruise with little fuel trim required, but at WOT it was too rich for best power. Also, if you want to know the truth, the fuel trims don’t enter into the equation at WOT for the factory PCM. At WOT it ignores the O2 sensors and any learned trims and runs purely open loop based on the pre programmed tables and functions and the signal from the MAF.
@@tecmotiondyno that is correct and at wot the fuel base open loop file I think at 180 degrees and 80 load and up it’s 12.35 afr
Anyway great videos can’t wait to see what’s next
Nice. I like to see more videos like this one as it explains the engine state.
The happiest part of this particular test is the confirmation that this engine is basically working fine and ready for next steps. Stay tuned for the 10 minute tune up!
@@tecmotiondyno, My foxbody currently has UR45GP plugs in it, would that be the correct plug for it? That’s what the previous owner had in it and they seemed to have a good tan colour, if not,what would you put in it?
If it has stock heads they should be fine - Those are platinum and would not be my first choice, but they do have the advantage of lasting longer and on a stocker you aren't likely to run into a pile of problems that a platinum plug might cause. Gap them 0.045" for a stock NA application.
@@tecmotiondyno Thank you very much,i don’t know as much as you but i’m trying to learn, videos help a lot.
@@rhealbrisson1773 you are getting lessons from the godfather of fox body’s so you’re in good hands.
What software are you using to data log? Looks handy to have.
Clint Garrity's Binary Editor and a Moates Quarterhorse. Unfortunately, Craig Moates threw in the towel in November and you can no longer buy that hardware.
Really enjoy the videos, years ago I remember the "10 minute Tune Up" and other small mods like Redline fluids, etc. Does anyone still use those fluids?
I did and dynoed the 10 minute tune up on this car, so that video is coming. As I am working through those dyno sessions I am finding that each of these steps seems better as a standalone video rather than putting every change into one video, and I suspect that it is a little easier to get your mind around one change at a time. I was surprised at the result here, and I suspect that the result would have been different if this was an upgraded car. It just goes to show that the stock ignition system is good enough to overcome quite a few real problems I guess!
Nice video man 👌 I'd like to learn more about flat top pistons and piston to valve interference. Maybe you could cover it in a future video? Thanks again I'll be watching.
I might just have a good example in hand right now, so thanks for the suggestion!
Also, you might be interested in this video where I show how to perform a piston to valve clearance check: ruclips.net/video/BBTARNz60XM/видео.html
Another great video. Is there a video where u explain what is actually needed. Example vacuumed lines / EGR ? I got a 89 that just don’t seem to be running great. Going threw all your videos and trying to get it figured out.
I'm not sure that I quite understand your question? Do you mean for the tune up or to get one of these cars to run right in general? This video has a few of the really common mistakes that I see if you haven't seen it yet: ruclips.net/video/-W5QwwIAhv4/видео.html
@@tecmotiondyno well I guess what I was meaning is. Correct rout of vacume lines. Also if car has plate where egr was at. And plug is just tapped up. Can that be a cause of issues ? I see a lot of videos of people eliminating stuff like EGR & Some vacuum lines.
remember when people thought these were fast smoked one the other day in a full size truck times have really changed lol
They can sure be made fast, but by today’s standards stock examples are very anemic like you said.
I've got an '89 fox coupe with heads/intake/cam. I'll be booking a day with you this summer.
Sounds good. Thanks for watching!
Where are you located?
Very educational. simple but very effective 👍
Glad you liked it
Great video Matthew! If you want a car that will pick up some power from a tune up, I know a 78 Trans Am that could use one 😜
I get a kick out of all the vehicles hanging around your place!
I love the OG mechanics that you know have seen some silly things in vehicles over the years. It’s amazing how resistant the older vehicles were to general maintenance neglect. The ecu in the Fox Mustangs was very good at compensating for problems and was not like the new age vehicles that throw codes or kill power at the slightest issue. If a new vehicle had plugs like this it would no doubt be throwing a cel and misfire code. It’s also amazing the power was unaffected by the horrible spark this vehicle was putting out. I would say I’m sure even though the dyno doesn’t show it this vehicle idles and drives a lot better overall because of the tune up he did. Looks like an HCI setup and tune would be the best route for some good power. Should be able to pick up 60-80 or more rwhp with a good set up if not more. It really woke up my 93 when I replaced the heads intake and cam.
Good informative video.
One thing to keep in mind is that guys do heads, cam, intake, AND a supercharger, and the stock ignition system usually still works with those combinations, or with just an upgraded coil. The stock ignition is much more powerful than the anemic stock powerplant required, and that's probably why we didn't get any power improvements when upgrading from the really terrible, worn out, and mismatched components that were on the car - the junky parts just didn't degrade it below the basic requirements of the stock engine. If the car had a bunch of power upgrades on it, changing out these bad ignition components would almost certainly have made a difference. An H/C/I setup would be a great way start with this car to turn it into a really fun cruiser that would seem contemporary in terms of performance.