I absolutely love the 660s, I'd been running the 615's at least since the early 2000s so I already love Falken, but the 660s are a different breed all together. For me, they were super grippy and even though it took me awhile to trust that the tire is really that sticky on track, once I got used to them, I was kickin' butt. Good to know that the PSI should be slightly higher than what I was running, I was doing about 32/33ish so next season I'll air them up a bit more. Great video!! (Now back to the k swap vids, ha.)
Really enjoyed this comparison and the discussion on proper setup for track. I have a 98 ITR I track on a regular basis and have been using RE71R for years but of course they are discontinued now. RT660 is a great replacement.
@@XenomorphLV426 If you can find them at a reasonable price the 660 seem to be the go to replacement. Not so easy to find a good price on Falken in Canada so many are trying other brands likes Nangang, Nexxen etc
@@motoiq I'm opting for the Whiteline ones which seem to be rated highly. I guess we'll see after allignment and track day since I don't have camber plates up top 😭
This talk about street setup vs race setup, can MotoIQ make a video about optimal tire and suspension setup for those vehicles with minimal upgrades but still like to autocross or canyon carve?
I wish those Falkens were available in Europe, would be fun to try them out on my car. Is a writeup on the Integra coming? I'm curious to see what you guys did to it (apart from the classic MotoIQ-style KW/Whiteline/Stoptech/OS Giken treatment). p.s. @6:28 My man!
I have rt660s. Everyone in my scca region uses either these or ao52s in autox and they all say these are for autox only, that they get greasy after a few full send laps on a road course. I do both autox and occasional track days and next track day is next month. Im nervous about bringing these but Im going to gamble. Im surprised you guys ran 35 hot, all the other fast camaros in my division like to run low 30s hot
@motoiq I'll take your word for it. It's going to be hot at Thunderhill in June so I was thinking trying 30psi frnt and 29psi rear cold and let em warm up. I'm sure there's variables to each setup. I'm still on stock sway bars but I'm slightly lowered and running almost -3 camber up front and -2 in rear. Sway bars/end links are my next upgrade
@motoiq I know I was limited -1.9 before I put on camber plates, now I'm at -2.8 but I want to bump it up closer to -3.2. The really fast camaros in my group run -3.5+ but my car is my daily so I don't want to go too aggressive. Before my RT660s I bought sport cup 2s which are 550$ a tire in my size and made the mistake of going on a 16 hour road trip with them. 2200$ flushed down the toilet. I try to swap wheels now everytime I go on a trip but I like to keep the grippy tire on for summer cruising and to drive to the nearest track which is 3.5 hours away from me
I didn't know more negative camber can help the wear of a tire. I heard conventional wisdom before describe the tires wear was greater with more negative camber. Is this true for the street, but not for the track where the cornering is more aggressive? Or is the wear only greater with bad toe?
That's in relation to the environment the vehicle is being used on. A daily driver will destroy the inside shoulders of tires with excessive camber. The tire wear will be much more consistent on the street with milder camber settings. On the track or track-style driving (autocross, touge, etc), you're better off matching the camber to your intended driving style to utilize more of the contact patch on the tire efficiently.
what cold and hot pressures worked best ? I ran 34 hot on my bmw 228i square setup (255x35x 18") and they cupped badly and wore a lot esp on the inside center area of the tire. Running MCS 2way suspension with about -3.5 on the front
Cold pressure varies widely due to ambient conditions but most cars seem to work with 35 psi plus hot on this particular tire. This does not apply to other brands and model of tire,
For the most part, it is still a DOT tire. It would make sense to subject the tire to a heat cycle on non DOT tires prior to use, but with DOT tires, almost always you are able to fully utilize the tire after mounting (after the mold coating is worn off the tire).
Honestly, any tire in this category requires warming up to perform as intended and have a desired temperature range to be at their best. Otherwise, you'll cause stiffening, cracking, etc to the tire compound and damage it prematurely. Some tires do respond differently or warm up at a different rate than others.
Have tested in temps of 50degs. Took 3 laps to get any heat into them. Corner exit grip was junk. Even after one track day they were slower then the a052. Ran at national tour one day and pulled them off. Went back to my 30run a052 and was back into top 10pax the next day.
Love seeing that SE-R out there mixing it up, hell yes
Most underrated Japanese sport compact.
Nissan will never make cars like this again
Sounds like a good trackday tire where warm up laps really eat into fun time!
Came for the Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero music... Did not disappoint.
GSR and SE-R, love it
Yep '90s FWD superheros!
Reminds me of the old SCC subscription days
The old street terrorists!
I absolutely love the 660s, I'd been running the 615's at least since the early 2000s so I already love Falken, but the 660s are a different breed all together. For me, they were super grippy and even though it took me awhile to trust that the tire is really that sticky on track, once I got used to them, I was kickin' butt. Good to know that the PSI should be slightly higher than what I was running, I was doing about 32/33ish so next season I'll air them up a bit more. Great video!! (Now back to the k swap vids, ha.)
Really enjoyed this comparison and the discussion on proper setup for track. I have a 98 ITR I track on a regular basis and have been using RE71R for years but of course they are discontinued now. RT660 is a great replacement.
This is exactly my predicament. I can't order a new set of RE71Rs. I'm researching of these are a worthy replacement?
@@XenomorphLV426 If you can find them at a reasonable price the 660 seem to be the go to replacement. Not so easy to find a good price on Falken in Canada so many are trying other brands likes Nangang, Nexxen etc
Incredible production quality again
Love these tires!! THE TRUTH!!!
When Mike mentioned the rollover I thought of my factory setup. Camber bolts to be installed! More track videos plsss! Thanks
Generally you got to be careful with camber bolts, they tend to slip and do not have enough adjustment.
@@motoiq I'm opting for the Whiteline ones which seem to be rated highly. I guess we'll see after allignment and track day since I don't have camber plates up top 😭
i really love the falken azenis they grip too well
Awesome review! I use the rt615 on mine...wish I can try the new one! Great video
This talk about street setup vs race setup, can MotoIQ make a video about optimal tire and suspension setup for those vehicles with minimal upgrades but still like to autocross or canyon carve?
I wish those Falkens were available in Europe, would be fun to try them out on my car. Is a writeup on the Integra coming? I'm curious to see what you guys did to it (apart from the classic MotoIQ-style KW/Whiteline/Stoptech/OS Giken treatment).
p.s. @6:28 My man!
Its been done, check out the project car section on MotoIQ.
@@motoiq Oh, right, thank you. Out of habit I looked into the Honda section and couldn't find the Integra there... Silly me, sorry.
I have rt660s. Everyone in my scca region uses either these or ao52s in autox and they all say these are for autox only, that they get greasy after a few full send laps on a road course. I do both autox and occasional track days and next track day is next month. Im nervous about bringing these but Im going to gamble. Im surprised you guys ran 35 hot, all the other fast camaros in my division like to run low 30s hot
35 works better for there tires.
@motoiq I'll take your word for it. It's going to be hot at Thunderhill in June so I was thinking trying 30psi frnt and 29psi rear cold and let em warm up. I'm sure there's variables to each setup. I'm still on stock sway bars but I'm slightly lowered and running almost -3 camber up front and -2 in rear. Sway bars/end links are my next upgrade
You need more front camber.
@motoiq I know I was limited -1.9 before I put on camber plates, now I'm at -2.8 but I want to bump it up closer to -3.2. The really fast camaros in my group run -3.5+ but my car is my daily so I don't want to go too aggressive. Before my RT660s I bought sport cup 2s which are 550$ a tire in my size and made the mistake of going on a 16 hour road trip with them. 2200$ flushed down the toilet. I try to swap wheels now everytime I go on a trip but I like to keep the grippy tire on for summer cruising and to drive to the nearest track which is 3.5 hours away from me
Dude, that SR tho.
What were the lap times!?
I didn't know more negative camber can help the wear of a tire. I heard conventional wisdom before describe the tires wear was greater with more negative camber. Is this true for the street, but not for the track where the cornering is more aggressive? Or is the wear only greater with bad toe?
That's in relation to the environment the vehicle is being used on. A daily driver will destroy the inside shoulders of tires with excessive camber. The tire wear will be much more consistent on the street with milder camber settings. On the track or track-style driving (autocross, touge, etc), you're better off matching the camber to your intended driving style to utilize more of the contact patch on the tire efficiently.
This is for track use, street use, a lot of negative camber will wear the tires faster.
what cold and hot pressures worked best ? I ran 34 hot on my bmw 228i square setup (255x35x 18") and they cupped badly and wore a lot esp on the inside center area of the tire. Running MCS 2way suspension with about -3.5 on the front
Cold pressure varies widely due to ambient conditions but most cars seem to work with 35 psi plus hot on this particular tire. This does not apply to other brands and model of tire,
RE:The higher pressures. Is that due to softer sidewalls or is there another reason for a tire preferring higher pressure?
The sidewalls are actually stiffer than the 615K. Sometimes a tire will just like more or less pressure.
I’m getting these tires to daily drive my car hit the canyons like twice a month I’ll let you guys know how they did once I’m done with them
How'd you like them?
what about the tread splitting/splicing issue that some have encountered with the RT660?
We haven't encountered that yet but we haven't gone through too many yet.
Falken nice!
no warm up is it also sticky ??
It needs much less than typical
Is heat cycle a thing for these tires?
less that other tires of this type.
For the most part, it is still a DOT tire. It would make sense to subject the tire to a heat cycle on non DOT tires prior to use, but with DOT tires, almost always you are able to fully utilize the tire after mounting (after the mold coating is worn off the tire).
Tires are garbage in any temps under 60degs
052 and the re71 are far better if You live in an area that temps get below 60degs
Not for track driving where the temperatures will build up quickly, autocross perhaps.
Honestly, any tire in this category requires warming up to perform as intended and have a desired temperature range to be at their best. Otherwise, you'll cause stiffening, cracking, etc to the tire compound and damage it prematurely. Some tires do respond differently or warm up at a different rate than others.
@@legendaryslickzz3286 These tires warm up really fast, like in less than halfway through your out lap!
Good thing I live in southern California.
Have tested in temps of 50degs. Took 3 laps to get any heat into them. Corner exit grip was junk. Even after one track day they were slower then the a052.
Ran at national tour one day and pulled them off. Went back to my 30run a052 and was back into top 10pax the next day.