I was having a problem with the dryer not turning ON at all. One of the first things I did was to check continuity on the thermal fuse. I did not disconnect the leads to it just as you showed in your video when you tested it for continuity. I tested everything you showed and still no smoking gun, other than the centrifugal start switch that is mounted to the motor . I finally went back and tested the thermal switch a second time and with the leads attached I got the continuity tone from my multi-meter. I then disconnected the leads, something I was told to always do when testing a component to isolate completely from the circuit. This time, I did not get the tone, and the meter displayed OPEN. So, I reconnected the leads on the thermal fuse and tested again, and again, I got a tone and continuity. Well, I tried your suggestion to bypass the thermal switch, I had a dual flat face male connector to single male flat face adapter, pushed the two female connectors on to it, covered it with electrical tape and plugged in the power cord and flipped the start switch up on the console and the motor started spinning. I immediately powered OFF since I did not have the drum installed, but it worked! So, even though I was testing across the two contacts on the thermal fuse, it was still finding continuity through the circuitry and giving me a FALSE reading of continuity. The recommendation to this is always isolate the component, when possible, from the circuit it resides on to insure the test results are not skewed by other pathways in the circuit. Remember, electricity, like water always finds another way to the least resistance path to ground . :-)
I've watched both of your dryer repairs video, and thought you do a good job of explaining the basics, to the unknowing. And in all my years, I've never seen a light in a dryer. (But I buy inexpensive ones). Also, I hear about these thermal fuses, but my electric Maytag doesn't have one. But it does have a thermostat.
When you check a switch or thermal fuse, you really need to unplug one or both wires. if you don't you could get a false pass since your also testing the circuit that is parallel to the part you are testing if you dont unplug one of the wires to open the circuit loop.
If you came to this video from PART 1, you can skip to 4:55 in the video and you will pickup where you left off. Use the Amazon Affiliate links below to order parts needed for this repair. Thermal Fuse - amzn.to/2I1nlyS Dryer Door Switch - amzn.to/2CLFv4i 7 in 1 Screw Driver - amzn.to/2HQZwdT Shop Vac - amzn.to/2uAAyaa Dryer Vent Hose - amzn.to/2FOovMD
why couldn't you just solder the broken coil or connect the broken coil with a wire connector for high temp connections. comment. it would save that $70 bucks. if the fix dose work.
ALAN PARADISE I didn’t say it can’t be repaired. I would just rather buy a new one than repair a 14yr old coil that will likely break again. I’m pretty sure a machine made that coil. A man made the machine though.
@@TightWadDIY Yes I would too.but. I would try to fix it first. I fixed a coil and lt last 6 years MORE on a 16year old dryer Then I replace it because the motor coils fail it would of cost me the motor just to rebuilt it. SO i got 22 years and its still going strong.
I was having a problem with the dryer not turning ON at all.
One of the first things I did was to check continuity on the thermal fuse.
I did not disconnect the leads to it just as you showed in your video when you tested it for continuity.
I tested everything you showed and still no smoking gun, other than the centrifugal start switch that is mounted to the motor .
I finally went back and tested the thermal switch a second time and with the leads attached I got the continuity tone from my multi-meter. I then disconnected the leads, something I was told to always do when testing a component to isolate completely from the circuit. This time, I did not get the tone, and the meter displayed OPEN. So, I reconnected the leads on the thermal fuse and tested again, and again, I got a tone and continuity. Well, I tried your suggestion to bypass the thermal switch, I had a dual flat face male connector to single male flat face adapter, pushed the two female connectors on to it, covered it with electrical tape and plugged in the power cord and flipped the start switch up on the console and the motor started spinning. I immediately powered OFF since I did not have the drum installed, but it worked!
So, even though I was testing across the two contacts on the thermal fuse, it was still finding continuity through the circuitry and giving me a FALSE reading of continuity. The recommendation to this is always isolate the component, when possible, from the circuit it resides on to insure the test results are not skewed by other pathways in the circuit. Remember, electricity, like water always finds another way to the least resistance path to ground . :-)
I've watched both of your dryer repairs video, and thought you do a good job of explaining the basics, to the unknowing. And in all my years, I've never seen a light in a dryer. (But I buy inexpensive ones). Also, I hear about these thermal fuses, but my electric Maytag doesn't have one. But it does have a thermostat.
Interesting. I’m surprised there isn’t a thermal fuse in yours.
@@TightWadDIY I found a thermal device, (no continuity) buried inside the heating element housing, along with others in line.
This video and your fuse video saved me two service calls...Thanks!
SnapperKC Great! I’m glad it helped you out.
I think I am just gonna do this now. Yep! Thank you!
I hope it works for you too!
When you check a switch or thermal fuse, you really need to unplug one or both wires. if you don't you could get a false pass since your also testing the circuit that is parallel to the part you are testing if you dont unplug one of the wires to open the circuit loop.
Good to know. Thanks for adding valuable information.
If you came to this video from PART 1, you can skip to 4:55 in the video and you will pickup where you left off. Use the Amazon Affiliate links below to order parts needed for this repair.
Thermal Fuse - amzn.to/2I1nlyS
Dryer Door Switch - amzn.to/2CLFv4i
7 in 1 Screw Driver - amzn.to/2HQZwdT
Shop Vac - amzn.to/2uAAyaa
Dryer Vent Hose - amzn.to/2FOovMD
My math teacher told me to subscribe. Idk why? Lol
Hank Hill Haha. Is your math teacher Coach Hughes?
TightWadDIY yep. 😂! Tell him Chauncey subscribed. 👍🏻
Thank you for this video !
ImForgivenToo You are welcome. Were you able to get yours fixed?
@@TightWadDIY
Not yet, but I believe the culprit to be the "push to start" switch...
Thank you !
ImForgivenToo Here is another video I made with more details and potential issues. ruclips.net/video/wsl2Y7UbNGo/видео.html
My dryer is Nat work is no electricity on my dryer okay
why couldn't you just solder the broken coil or connect the broken coil with a wire connector for high temp connections. comment. it would save that $70 bucks. if the fix dose work.
ALAN PARADISE I would rather spend $70 and not risk burning down my home.
@@TightWadDIY You wouldn't burn down your home if you do it right. If man made that coil .Man can repair it. Any thing can be repaired.
ALAN PARADISE I didn’t say it can’t be repaired. I would just rather buy a new one than repair a 14yr old coil that will likely break again. I’m pretty sure a machine made that coil. A man made the machine though.
@@TightWadDIY Yes I would too.but. I would try to fix it first. I fixed a coil and lt last 6 years MORE on a 16year old dryer Then I replace it because the motor coils fail it would
of cost me the motor just to rebuilt it. SO i got 22 years and its still going strong.
I am Chika I. Kalu. Your fan who just subscribed to show.
Pls how can i generate electricity for household appliances from a spark plug?
You can’t. A spark plug is used in combustion engines. It doesn’t generate electricity.
LOL. This is a joke, right? :D