I did... look on the page.. there should be pics somewhere showing the insides more clearly. I hope! I also made an additional piece to hold all the LEDs in position. Just a strip of styrene with holes for the leads to go through.
Acrylics and enamels don't use the same thinners so don't react. Turpenoid is very mild as well so doesn't attack the primer underneath unless you REALLY overwork it.
does it have to be oil pants? im doing a huey helicopter iv just finished assembly and paint i just need to add decals. also do i need clear coat? becaus im going to try to add shipped paint effect and maybe bullet holes to make it look like it went through a battle zone. note this will be my first time doing waethering and this is my 3rd model. thank you for your time. i sure learnt alot from this vid. ZK
I purchased some Abteilung Dark Mud, but they must have changed the formula because it doesn't have any grey in it. Any suggestions for alternative grey oil paint?
Mike. How do you use this weathering/streaking technique in the areas that have lots of plant-ons and machinery bits sticking up (the back quarter of the saucer being a great example)? I used the your method on a 1/144 Bandai falcon and everything worked great on the open panel areas (the ocher and filth on Step 2 really gave a warm weather-stained look) but more "complex" areas like the engines or the antenna dish looked a little too black & white. It was almost like I didn't have enough space to get a good streak/smear and would end up with very patchy areas that were too intense and had to be cleaned up with Terpenoid. Similar question goes for the sides of the Falcon with all the pipes and bits. Stark black & white doesn't work well when the panels have the nice ocher tone. I'm getting ready to start on my DeAgo Falcon but I'm worried about these "busy" areas. Thanks.
...do i have to use modelers paint for weathering my Star Wars vehicles? at wal-mart they have water based acrylic craft paints that are really cheap...
Hi there, Some of the colors used are not available right now( starship filth, the rust colors, faded blue etc. do you have any recommendations for substitute colors or oils from another company?
hello , Have you varnished the model before the process of discoloration or not ? I do not understand the sentence at 0.38 . I hope to read you soon. gboy1801.
did you airbrush the base code ? Could you list all the colors you used from start to finish pleas? Maybe add it to the description, that would be amazing. Thanks in advance
+NapFloridian It would be amazing if I had the energy to do that... considering between email and these videos comments I've done that hundreds of times already. Please read through the build progress on my website. THAT would be amazing. Sorry to be snarky, but I refuse to answer those questions again when the info is already available.
+FichtenFoo ok, one question you did no have on your website... did you airbrush to "base" the falcon yes or no? just that you only have to write a yes or no. thanks
Ross c Turpenoid is less caustic to the ACRYLIC paint than mineral spirits and turpentine. no reall effect unless it gets to a non acrylic primer underneath.
Thanks, sorry im new and have some bandai kits, i take it turpinoid will work with enamel wash? on a acrylic base paint So far i have use this but the paint just goes sticky and ruins
Just be super careful with Bandai kits and thinners. Turpenoid is fine as long as you don't slop it on and let it sit in cracks, but mineral spirits and any of the AK/MIG/AMMO thinners with make the plastic brittle and crumble. Learned that the hard way on my Scopedog ankles and AK thinner.
What did you do to the model before this video? Sorry, I'm new to painting models and I'm getting the Bandai Millennium Falcon. I just want to know what to expect. Thanks!
I couldn’t find a complete build post on his website. However, he did have a photo montage of the model from first paint to completed weathering. He applied a base coat of medium grey. Then preshaded the panel lines with what looks like a very dark grey, and covered that with the final color coat. If he used a terpenoid solvent then my guess he used an acrylic based paint.
Thanks for the reply...I'm building the Revel remake of the 1/72 Falcon...and it's been a while since I've painted something this detailed (I normally work with RPG miniatures). Never worked with oils before and so I'm nervous. You make it look so easy, though!
Michael. You replied below that your weathering techniques wouldn't work well with acrylic paints. Can you expound a little and tell me why acrylics won't work. Also, it looks like your applying the weathering on a flat coat surface. I assume that things won't work out as well if the surface is gloss coated? Thanks.
James Wise I used acrylics for the base coat using them for the weathering would mean using thinner that would ruin the base. Plus acrylics don't blend as well due to the quick dry time.
+Paul Beard , The Revell Master Series 1/72 Falcon is the Fine Molds Falcon, they are one and the same. The only difference between the two is that you do not get the full color decal pages, they are black and white.
Sure as hell wish I knew what I am doing wrong, I can’t even come close to replicating these effects. No matter what I do, the paint turns into a giant muddled mess. I’ve tried different paints, thinners, brushes, clear gloss coat, clear dull coat.. it all turns out the same.
Primed with Duplicolor sandable dark grey primer, base coated with Tamiya Acrylics, then it's oil paint and Weber odorless turpenoid. Don't overwork it during or between steps.
Well. After trying this technich I completely wrecked the project. I am staying as far away from this as possible and use a simple wash. No way not again.
John Beckman so what specifically went wrong? Did you use too strong of a thinner? We're your base paints enamel which the thinner would eat? I and many armor modelers use this same technique all the time without issue. Or if there is an issue, it's a chance to troubleshoot and learn from a mistake. Giving up is the worst.
FichtenFoo Honestly it was a rookie mistake. I need to change my post to indicate that one should really give it a try a few times before attempting. The video makes it look so easy. It was really difficult trying to fix the mess I made. Mostly upset at myself for ruinging a 60 dollar model.
I guess that if one is to try this, you must understand the paint you are using and practice practice practice. Next time I would thin the acrylic before brushing. Plus a tiny amount of paint goes a Looooong way. So watch that too as a little blob will be very hard to remove.
Found you just in time. I have just purchased a milinium Falcon and will be starting it soon.
I did... look on the page.. there should be pics somewhere showing the insides more clearly. I hope! I also made an additional piece to hold all the LEDs in position. Just a strip of styrene with holes for the leads to go through.
Thanks for the videos! I'm currently building MPC's 1989 Millennium Falcon and using your techniques to finisher her off!
Acrylics and enamels don't use the same thinners so don't react. Turpenoid is very mild as well so doesn't attack the primer underneath unless you REALLY overwork it.
does it have to be oil pants? im doing a huey helicopter iv just finished assembly and paint i just need to add decals. also do i need clear coat? becaus im going to try to add shipped paint effect and maybe bullet holes to make it look like it went through a battle zone. note this will be my first time doing waethering and this is my 3rd model. thank you for your time. i sure learnt alot from this vid. ZK
I tried this technique. It really works.
I purchased some Abteilung Dark Mud, but they must have changed the formula because it doesn't have any grey in it. Any suggestions for alternative grey oil paint?
Mike. How do you use this weathering/streaking technique in the areas that have lots of plant-ons and machinery bits sticking up (the back quarter of the saucer being a great example)? I used the your method on a 1/144 Bandai falcon and everything worked great on the open panel areas (the ocher and filth on Step 2 really gave a warm weather-stained look) but more "complex" areas like the engines or the antenna dish looked a little too black & white. It was almost like I didn't have enough space to get a good streak/smear and would end up with very patchy areas that were too intense and had to be cleaned up with Terpenoid.
Similar question goes for the sides of the Falcon with all the pipes and bits. Stark black & white doesn't work well when the panels have the nice ocher tone.
I'm getting ready to start on my DeAgo Falcon but I'm worried about these "busy" areas. Thanks.
...do i have to use modelers paint for weathering my Star Wars vehicles? at wal-mart they have water based acrylic craft paints that are really cheap...
any substitute for the turpenoid thinner? will normal thinner do fine? any brand of oil paint that you recommend?
Do you paint the oils directly over the acrylic base coat or do you seal it with something first?
Hi, I have a question, which grey base color you used for Star wars models (not the primer)?
is their any product that can replace odorless turpenoid?
Probably been asked before... what base colour did you use?
Hi there,
Some of the colors used are not available right now( starship filth, the rust colors, faded blue etc. do you have any recommendations for substitute colors or oils from another company?
Awesome!!!! well done!
Great overview on oil weathering. Now to find some of that odourless turps.
If you're in the US, they sell it at Hobby Lobby. You can also purchase on Amazon.
@thevosovics HLJ or Hobbywave... can't recall.
What is the base color that you use (this light grey)?
hello ,
Have you varnished the model before the process of discoloration or not ?
I do not understand the sentence at 0.38 .
I hope to read you soon.
gboy1801.
How does your base coat not get eaten by the turps mixed with the oil paint? I tried this and it ate in to my base.
Daniel Thompson see replies.
Where did you find those metal tins? I have been looking for those without any success! Thanks and that Millenium Falcon is amazing.
Hobbywave like 5-6 years ago. haha!
Hobbywave? Never heard of it. Is that like a Hobby Lobby or something?
*****
It's a model and supply website website. look for the dotcom in case I can't post the link here. They're called "Mr. Paint Tray".
OMG! Awesome. Cheap and you get 10 trays. How much was shipping I live in the US in Indiana?
***** No idea, it was 6 years ago. ha! I think their shipping is flat-rate in the US/Canada, but you'll have to look.
did you airbrush the base code ?
Could you list all the colors you used from start to finish pleas? Maybe add it to the description, that would be amazing.
Thanks in advance
+NapFloridian It would be amazing if I had the energy to do that... considering between email and these videos comments I've done that hundreds of times already. Please read through the build progress on my website. THAT would be amazing. Sorry to be snarky, but I refuse to answer those questions again when the info is already available.
+FichtenFoo ok, one question you did no have on your website... did you airbrush to "base" the falcon yes or no? just that you only have to write a yes or no.
thanks
does the turps not make the paint go sticky like thinners does?
Ross c Turpenoid is less caustic to the ACRYLIC paint than mineral spirits and turpentine. no reall effect unless it gets to a non acrylic primer underneath.
Thanks, sorry im new and have some bandai kits, i take it turpinoid will work with enamel wash? on a acrylic base paint
So far i have use this but the paint just goes sticky and ruins
Just be super careful with Bandai kits and thinners. Turpenoid is fine as long as you don't slop it on and let it sit in cracks, but mineral spirits and any of the AK/MIG/AMMO thinners with make the plastic brittle and crumble. Learned that the hard way on my Scopedog ankles and AK thinner.
Thanks for sharing.. Really great techniques, gona use it for me PG Falcon 😁 I noticed you don't do panel lines?
Finally some videos. It's about time HAHAHA!!!! Great stuff. Thanks Mike.
What did you do to the model before this video? Sorry, I'm new to painting models and I'm getting the Bandai Millennium Falcon. I just want to know what to expect. Thanks!
look at fichtenfoo.com for the full sbs
I couldn’t find a complete build post on his website. However, he did have a photo montage of the model from first paint to completed weathering. He applied a base coat of medium grey. Then preshaded the panel lines with what looks like a very dark grey, and covered that with the final color coat. If he used a terpenoid solvent then my guess he used an acrylic based paint.
Can the streaking be done with acrylic paints?
Foster Payne: it can be done poorly ...
Thanks for the reply...I'm building the Revel remake of the 1/72 Falcon...and it's been a while since I've painted something this detailed (I normally work with RPG miniatures). Never worked with oils before and so I'm nervous. You make it look so easy, though!
Michael.
You replied below that your weathering techniques wouldn't work well with acrylic paints. Can you expound a little and tell me why acrylics won't work. Also, it looks like your applying the weathering on a flat coat surface. I assume that things won't work out as well if the surface is gloss coated? Thanks.
James Wise I used acrylics for the base coat using them for the weathering would mean using thinner that would ruin the base. Plus acrylics don't blend as well due to the quick dry time.
streaking has never been so much fun lol!! brilliant iv sub'd
Is this the revell model kit
Im pretty sure its the FInemolds Kit.
+Paul Beard , The Revell Master Series 1/72 Falcon is the Fine Molds Falcon, they are one and the same. The only difference between the two is that you do not get the full color decal pages, they are black and white.
Oh sweet, thats really good to know as its easier to get the Revell version here where I stay.
I just got it...it's awesome.
Exhaust stains should be parallel to the direction of flight, not on a radius like rust stains. I know the filming model has the same mistakes.
looks great
Sure as hell wish I knew what I am doing wrong, I can’t even come close to replicating these effects. No matter what I do, the paint turns into a giant muddled mess. I’ve tried different paints, thinners, brushes, clear gloss coat, clear dull coat.. it all turns out the same.
Primed with Duplicolor sandable dark grey primer, base coated with Tamiya Acrylics, then it's oil paint and Weber odorless turpenoid. Don't overwork it during or between steps.
Well. After trying this technich I completely wrecked the project. I am staying as far away from this as possible and use a simple wash. No way not again.
John Beckman so what specifically went wrong? Did you use too strong of a thinner? We're your base paints enamel which the thinner would eat? I and many armor modelers use this same technique all the time without issue. Or if there is an issue, it's a chance to troubleshoot and learn from a mistake. Giving up is the worst.
FichtenFoo
Honestly it was a rookie mistake. I need to change my post to indicate that one should really give it a try a few times before attempting. The video makes it look so easy. It was really difficult trying to fix the mess I made. Mostly upset at myself for ruinging a 60 dollar model.
I guess that if one is to try this, you must understand the paint you are using and practice practice practice. Next time I would thin the acrylic before brushing. Plus a tiny amount of paint goes a Looooong way. So watch that too as a little blob will be very hard to remove.
John Beckman were you using tube oil paint or tube acrylics? Because there's a huuuuuge difference.
FichtenFoo tube acrylics.