My girlfriend and I took my truck to Raleigh from wilmington because I was quoted $ 1049.00 from DES in wilmington nc, I was lucky enough to speak with Pacfan and he said bring it up when our schedules match. I brought it up yesterday and this man saved me 700$ and knows his stuff when it comes to these sunroof/ moonroofs etc! Mine had complications initionlizing alignment and the man swapped the blind motor with the sunroof motor everything he could do besides just saying you need a whole new set up that would cost 2000$ possibly. He fixed it along with his two helpers !!! So thankful I met you guys Thanks So much for everything you did, you saved me a huge amount of money and the hassle of dealing with an incompetent company in wilmington nc when it comes to this exact issue... 😉🙂
Replaced rails on my wife's 2018 Ford Expidition Limited! You Sir are a life saver / money saver, and we thank you for your guidance! Dealer wanted charge me over $1K for a complete sunroof kit, Sunroof Doctor $166.86. Patients is key even for a mechanically inclined individual, and yes the cuss words came out. Very Helpful, Greatly Appreciated!
2019 F350 King Ranch. Sunroof jammed almost closed..Did your system reset to get it to close (*Thanks for posting). Brought truck to Bell Ford in Phoenix, Arizona and was quoted $4000 to replace the ENTIRE track and frame because "it's a one piece unit, INCLUDING MOTORS and it's cracked and broken". Brought truck home and watched your videos...seemed easy enough enough so I ordered parts from Sunroof Doctor. Quick delivery. Watched the video a number of times as I did the left side...probably took and hour from start to replaced. Second side took about 15 minutes. Another 15 to adjust, tighten, and run system reset (*again, thanks for that). Found broken bits in both tracks but now it's smooth as silk. You saved me $4000 dollars and I'm never going to Bell Ford again. THANK YOU! Wish I could send you a few bucks....
Sweet! Glad you got it fixed. And dang, 4k for the track? Whew. Last track I priced was 1,800, and it's 600 to install. I usually don't do the motors if they're still working. It's not a "one piece unit", either. You buy the track, motors, shade, rear trough and deflector separately. Usually when you do a track, you have a new track, and you just reuse the other stuff.
Thank you!! My 2017 F150 Lariat with the moon roof started crunching and wouldn’t close. I tried to get the parts from the dealer but they wanted to sell me 1K worth of parts. Got the rails from the sunroof doctor and followed your video step by step and worked perfectly. Can’t tell you how thankful I am!
This is one of the best repair videos I've seen- and it should be the _top_ result when you look up F150 sunroof repair. Thanks to this video I showed up with the right tools, the right screw heads (yes there _is_ a difference between phillips heads) and the right mindset. Saved me a buttload of money at the dealer, and felt like I had a good buddy or a neighbor walk me through it. The only trouble I ran into was at 4:36, and that was solved by some extra lube. (Yes, my inner Beavis is laughing right now). Instead of giving the dealership a whole mess of money, I bought the top end Dewalt screwdriver kit with bits, and it made this a relative breeze. You should seriously consider enabling "Super Thanks" or tippping on this video, I'd gladly kick over $20 for the nonsense this video saved me from experiencing.
Hey thanks a lot for the kind words. You will get a lot of use out of that DeWalt equipment. I know I do. I thought I did have super thanks available and enabled, I don't know if it shows up on every video or not though. I know it's on my about page. Maybe I have to go through every video and add it.
Dude, THANK YOU so flipping much. I just got tagged for another deployment and I needed to get this done ASAP. I wasn’t trying to give the stealership between $1400-$2500 depending on what was broken. Much appreciated man. Great detailed video. GB
Thank you so much! This worked on my 2018 F150. I got the part from Sunroof Doctor and it fit fine. I decided NOT to go Amazon although the part was cheaper, but I figured it wasn't worth the risk. Just a few tips: You HAVE to have your sunroof vented to get the arm out. Do this BEFORE you start to work on it. Do NOT touch the sunroof control buttons during the repair - you are going to break stuff! (Thank you Super Glue!). Watch his video on how to remove the sunroof, it's just 3 bolts on each side.
My man! THANK YOU! I owe you big time @pacfanweb !! I just finished replacing my broken rail on my F150 '16 Vista Sunroof for $150. Also followed your vid on initializing procedure. The sunroof is now back to fully functioning order and no wind noise. Dude, I'm in Raleigh and I owe you lunch. If I can send you a gift card or something It would be my pleasure. You just saved me a least a grand. Everything was just as you said. I was using shitty tools and I did it in 100 degree heat we had yesterday. Even still it only took me about an hour. Also, I didn't buy Krytox. I found a solid brand on Amazon that makes silicone lube for a very reasonable price.
Great to hear it. I've been using 3m silicone paste instead of the Krytox for awhile now on the seal. I use the silicone paste or another type of Teflon lube on the track parts themselves.
My 2018 just went. I found several plastic pieces. Will take it out with this great video and check out the entire panoramic sunroof to replace all parts needed. I can not thank you enough for your videos. THANKS!
@@mewho4393 It's new parts to replace the failed ones. Whether it's "permanent" or not, time will tell. I don't think the arms are beefed up any, but it's not a patch job since you are literally replacing all the broken parts here. You can get them from Ford or Sunroof Doctor, who sells the same parts. Probably Amazon and other places, too
Thanks so much for posting all 3 videos - it works great! Folks, while you have the glass out, make sure you run some water through the drain holes up there and make sure all 4 drain quickly. My rear passenger side drain tube was apparently crimped closed during original assembly. when that happens, the channels over flow sending water down the nearest pillar,, soaking your carpets. Then you get mold and mildew and a wonderful smelling truck. Fingers crossed that that is now fixed. Will also do the AC drain while I am at it.
Shame on ford on these sunroofs.... water leaks, can’t drive over 20mph with them open and plastic parts break an leave you with a stuck open sunroof on a $70k Limited truck.. that’s bs
@@velvetsmoooth4980 Driving with them open isn't what breaks them. Simply the act of opening them is what does that. Keep the seal lubed and always vent it first before opening it fully.
@@BLAKJAKG Possibly. If one arm got totally stuck and the cables slipped, it might have damaged the cables. A dealer isn't going to take a chance that can be worked around, they're going to replace the track. I've run across many where they were out of sync....you drop the sunroof motor, and manually line them up again, then tighten the motor back up. The cables won't move when the gear on the motor is engaged with the cables, so you have to drop it. If it just slipped and the cables aren't damaged, then you're good to go like this and just replace the arms. I've done a bunch of them this way. However, I have seen a few that were too damaged to work again and they needed tracks...usually those were ones where they got stuck open and someone forced them shut. So odds are, it can be saved, but there is a chance it's too far gone. Only way to find out is try it.
Thanks for the video. I completed this repair today. Took about 1.5 hour. Your video made the process simple I think the most challenging part was getting the new rail on the track ( not hard just had to work a little to get it in track).
Yeah, there's one certain position it has to be in for the little "feet" to go in there. Hard to show on camera. I used to struggle with them but have done so many now it's a piece of cake. You did fine.
Did both sides as I had the parts anyway. Nicely explained! I got everything out, cleaned, greased and re-installed. Went to test before I put the glass back on.....and broke the drivers side drive cable bracket at the top. So now....the next video!
Dealer did mine today. Ford Part #FL3Z-1651070-C Sunroof started acting up and was making noise when on bumpy roads, dirt, snow, etc. Found the 2 pieces of broken plastic in the tracks. Sunroof worked for a little while then it ended up getting stuck open. Unfortunately did it after warranty. the DIY job in this video is good stuff for others!
Thanks so much for posting this vid! The duel moonroof panel just collapsed on my 2017 F-150 Lariat. Seems like this is a common issue and I’m sure this vid will help a ton of people!
Thank you for this and all of your F-150 sunroof videos. I watched several and it gave me the information I needed to get my sunroof unstuck and closed before the rain comes. The rails still need replacing but if I can't get the dealership to replace it under warranty I will feel comfortable replacing it myself thanks to you and these videos.
Thank you! This was very helpful. I just did this work on my truck and referenced all 3 of your videos on it. The only thing I would add is after you remove the glass make sure the sunroof mechanism is moved to the forward position before you start the disassembly process. Mine was back and I was having difficulty getting the tracks out...moving it forward worked and it was a breeze after.
Your video's are awesome. I was able to replace the ramps and reset the sunroof and shade using your video's. Everything worked great, until I installed the accordian covers. I then got the opportunity to learn that the motor closing operation will stop and take the sunroof all the way back to full open if something causes the closing motor to work to hard. Had a heart attack, then decided to remove the accoridan covers just in case those were causing the sunroof to not close. Good news, the sunroof closed as it had before. So, I decided I dont really need those accordian covers on there anyway. Thank you for showing us how to do this repair.
All those do is cover up the greasy stuff and keep fingers from getting caught in the mechanism. If you have enough sense not to stick your fingers up in there, they serve no other purpose. So you're fine leaving them off
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, My 2015 F-150 that I build online and ordered with every single option(Pricey!), then of course the sunroof broke at 36024 miles, Ford would not honor the warranty. Even after I called it in before 36000. 😒 I took this apart a year ago to see if it was possible to repair. I saw the broken plastic slides and thought that I would have to remove the headliner to repair. You are amazing... I ordered the slides on sunroof doctor, installed and reprogrammed. (after cleaning and applying 3m silicone paste). IT'S PERFECT!!!
I got the same answer from the dealer as well. Mine was 4 miles out of warranty from the first time it was fixed. They said nothing they can do but if I pay them $130 they will evaluate the issue and submit it to Ford and see if they would cover any of the repairs. Thanks for the vids on this. It’s folks like you that take the time to show how to fix things that make a difference in this world.
@@icky007 Thanks for the kind words. I am self-employed and do this for a living, but I figure I can't get to them all, so might as well see if what I do can help someone. I certainly have come to RUclips to see if anyone has seen something I'm looking at for the first time more than once, so giving back seemed like a good idea. What's kind of funny is when I have to watch my own video to remember how to do something, lol
I wish I could give this video another thumbs up! I just finished a second vista roof repair and this video helped refresh me on all the steps. I must say this roof is so much easier to repair vs the single panel moonroofs on older F150s and Expeditions that you have to remove the headliner, I have done so many of those jobs.
I followed you RUclips video, but I must have gotten a little too aggressive popping out that pin at min: 3:53, as now that pin has been broken out of it's plastic holders on the rail. What do I have to get to fix that. Sunroof Doctor doesn't show any additional pieces for the 2017 F150
2018 F-350 Great videos.....THANK YOU Currently replacing the lower guides / cables and upper arms. Putting it all together and the "other arms" that are the same size as the upper arms are broken. Just the passenger side arm.....is there somewhere to purchase that. Do you happen to have a used one. It is the arm you are moving from 7:05 - 7:30 It is broke right where the upper are goes in to it. Appreciate any help you might have on that. Or is it something that i can get away with. It goes back but i don't to see if being able to move forward well. Thank you. Kevin
That is the trough guide and it is also the piece that your concertina blind attaches to. It is not available separately. You can only get it with a new track
These videos are great for this if it’s just that rail on both sides. I had replaced my passenger side and was working on my driver side and noticed something odd. What little movement I could do only moved the diver side and not the passenger. Upon closer inspection, the little housing/plastic piece down in the rail for that back metal arm you pop out of that hole on the track, was broken. So that little arm wont move in the track at all. So much for saving me an INSANE amount at the dealership. Oh well.... Again, you did an AWESOME job with these vids and made them very easy to follow, but unfortunately it wont save me, unless you have a video/idea how to replace that little part haha. Thanks again for these man!
Unfortunately, if it's not your arms broken like in this video, it's lower in the track and that requires a new track. Which isn't easy or cheap. I do them, too, but haven't made a video for that as it'd require someone else to film me doing it.
Pacfanweb Pacfanweb Yeahhhhhhhhh...that's what I figured haha. It's the arm coming out of the track that goes in that hole and slide up and down the track. Service desk guy says they do at least 2 a week...it's sad Ford knows this is an issue yet won't issue a TSB or fix the actual issue. Dude told me he won't even open his sunroof bc of it... Sad a Ford service guy is telling me this... He said they are going to try and salvage it if they can to save me money so fingers crossed!!! 🤞🤞🤞🤞 Thanks again for the videos though, you are saving people hundreds of thousands of dollars as a result!!!
Great video. Really helpful. I had a problem with mine it wouldn't lift at the back so I had to loosen the motor to get the brackets on. Unfortunately I forgot to hook up one of the drip tray arms and ran the sunroof and broke the arms. $390 later It's all working good.
Thank you, thank you. Great information. Watched all 3 videos about sunroof lube, removal and replace rails. Did job myself. Dealer said fix would be $1,500-$2500. Cost me $160. Parts from Sunroof Dr. I appreciate you sharing your experience and helping people out. What a nice thing you’ve done, must feel good!
I use the internet just like everyone else does to find out things I don't know, and this is one thing I thought that I'm pretty much an expert at that others might like help with. And I can't fix them all, but maybe I can help.
Excellent video quality - stable and informative with clear and accurate instruction. This saved me $3600 - dealer was going to swap the entire sunroof frame. This should be a recall given the number of failures. Got the part from SunroofDoctor.com (I called them to order and was amazed with their knowledge of the problem, the part, and the procedure). With your videos to remove the glass, fix the part and then reinitialize it, it was really a breeze. My total cost $170: part, tax, shipping and a cold beer. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I believe they have the same parts sold at the dealers. If they have been upgraded I can't tell it. I've laid new ones and old ones side-by-side and I can't see any difference. I guess it's possible that the plastic is stronger or something, but you'd think the parts book would say it was upgraded, and it doesn't.
Very useful demonstration, sir. I have a question. How could I decide if it's the sunroof arm malfunctioning or another part? Will you please explain this?
Can't thank you enough for the videos and all the quick responses to my many many questions. Mine was so bad I couldn't get it to the vent position to even start the rail replacement and then they got out of sync. Enjoy dinner on me, the gift card is on its way! 👍.
At 1:30, you move the trough guide out of the way. I've tried pulling the outside arm away from it to move the guide back, but the guide won't move back. The rear tab never fully clears its slot. Suggestions?
@Pacfanweb No. I turned power on to the truck and pushed the vent button. It does not operate the vent. The only buttons that work are the sunshade buttons. They will move it from fully back to halfway back and vice versa. I did find a broken plastic piece on the passenger side - it was laying loose, not wedged.
@@bills3866 Okay, so that's why. It must be vented to do the repair. It's not fully shut, so it won't go to vent. Linked in the description is a video on how to manually align the lower guides. You can also use that to manually place them in the vented position if it won't go by itself. If you cannot get it to vent electrically, that might be worth a try.
@Pacfanweb After putting the front glass back on, I used your initialization video (thanks so much for that) and got it to the vent position. Will pick up this repair again, probably next week. The initialization procedure also allowed the shade to fully close which was my biggest issue for now since I rarely use the moonroof. Many thanks for your great videos and awesome help!
@@bills3866 Glad it worked. The shade won't shut more than halfway if it doesn't "think" the glass is fully shut. So if the glass is even a millimeter from totally shut, the shade only goes half shut. You must have gotten it fully shut, which is also evidenced by the fact that it will now vent. When you remove the glass again, take careful note of the broken pieces you fish out of the track. See my video about which pieces are which before you potentially waste time putting the arms in when the track itself might be bad. Hopefully, it won't be, but check to be sure.
Thank you for making this video. Getting my new parts from the Sunroof Doctor tomorrow for around $154. BTW I call Ford parts first and the parts guy told me they redesigned this with 2 motors. He told me the price was $1600. I think my comment was "oh hell no"
That would be for an entirely new track. And they do now specify the 2 motors be replaced, too, but I don't see any reason to do so. The old ones will work fine, I've done a ton of them reusing the old motors. If you do need one motor, though....you need them both, because the new ones will not initialize with an old one.
@@SealofPerfection I stripped one of the bolts on the sunroof motor and broke one of the plastic support brackets when trying to remove the stripped bolt. I ended up buying the same exact model of sunroof motor as the old one. I’m trying to initialize now with no luck. Any suggestions? In fact, nothing is working motor or shade… are they connected somehow? Also, this is on a 2018 Navigator and the map lights turn on/off by touching the light not a map light button. Have you ever initialized one of these setups before? I’m having a hard time doing it in under 3 seconds (the Ford General Procedure for this vehicle is similar to that of an F150).
@@YamahaFreak1299 Problem is, if one of the motors is the new model and one is the old, they won't work together. If it won't do anything, that's probably the issue. Somewhere around 2018-ish is when they put out a new upgraded motor. If you bought a new one, you may well still have the old style in your truck, and they will not work together.
@pacfanweb your video saved me a ton of money. My sunroof was stuck in the retracted position so I removed the three screws on each side and was able to slide it back out to the closed position and then up into the vented position. Then I bought the part from the dealer and installed within 2 hours! Thanks a ton!!!
Awesome video! I have one question. The piece you line up to pop off the rail has come off/out of the screw drive track. I cannot get them to line up nor can I find a position to get the roller down in the track.
Got everything back together! My issue is the round piece that hinges down onto the screw track is positioned differently passenger side to driver side. Can these be adjusted? I'm afraid to close and brake the new track.
@@zsc032284 If you're talking the round piece that goes through the larger part of the hole on the arms, then yes...they have to be lined up with each other. If yours are not, then the cables have slipped. Usually you can just re-align them and it's okay. In unlucky situations, the cables are damaged and you need a new complete track. To re-align, you drop the sunroof motor down a bit to disengage the gear from the cables, then manually (usually with a big screwdriver for me) line them up with each other, then lock the motor back down and proceed normally. The headliner in the rear is held up by strong magnets. Just pull down on it to get at the motor. Drop the headliner in the rear, and loosen the sunroof motor. It's the one on the driver's side. There are two identical motors back there, and the passenger side one runs the shade. So, the motors have 3 Torx 25 screws in them. Remove one, and loosen the other two so they are just barely in there, and you can drop the motor down to where the gear isn't contacting the cables anymore. Then put the guides back in sync, and tighten the motor and you hopefully will be good.
At 3:21, you remove some part from somewhere but you can't see what it is or how you removed it because your hand was in the way. Can you explain what that is? Thanks in advance.
That was the plastic piece that has the 2 Phillips screws in it. Sorry, my daughter was filming and it didn't show, but if you back the video up to where I point out those 2 screws, it's the plastic piece that they are holding down.
I took my front glass off to find the tracks broken like most. Ordered new parts but my roof won’t vent so is there a way manually vent it? The two round knobs that pop through on the last step to remove the broken track, on mine are all the way at the back. Is there a way to get them to the front of the vehicle so they can be popped through?
@marcus smith I have the exact same problem, did you ever figure it out? When my tracks are all the way forward, the lower guides are all the way to the back of the channel and won't move. I removed the small plates from each side (the ones with 2 screws) thinking they may be keeping it from venting, but it still doesn't vent.
Would this be the same on a Ford F-150 Raptor 2013? I heard a pop on one side and the moonroof is no longer closing. Noticed a loos metal rod that is no longer engaged in the back end. Would appreciate some advice...!
Unfortunately not. That is a completely different sunroof. The only fixed through Ford is to replace the entire track. There are aftermarket parts you can buy and basically disassemble the entire track Andre manufacturer it. It's much less expensive. Interesting, I looked at a Raptor yesterday with that exact problem. About the same year
@@SealofPerfection Went at the Ford dealership and they quoted me $4K to replace the entire sunroof, tracks, rail...! IDIOTS! CAN NOT TRUST A FORD DEALER EVER! I do not know what to do...!
@@gt-c- Well that is what it needs, but that sounds kind of high to do the job to me. I typically charge 600 to replace the track. So that plus whatever the track costs. There's also a fix for the track can be rebuilt
Yeah, the new TSB now said to replace the accordion-looking shields as well. I get them off without mangling them just fine, but I guess it's for others who just yank them off and damage them.
Anybody know where I can find that Troth track part? It’s that piece in the video starting at 7:08 where he says don’t forget to do his. I need to replace that.
@@marcorusso2705 there are several online places but the dealership is generally about as cheap for me. Your mileage may vary depending on your dealer.
Thanks for your time,keep up the good work. Will be trying this soon. Im subscribed hope to see more tip and tricks on f150. Great truck but bad sunroof engineers.
This helps to the tune of $700! My driver's side arm just broke on my 17 F-350....I wish I would have found out about the sunroof cleaning and lubrication maintenance before it broke, other wise I would have done it! My truck is 18 months old, but I have about 37k miles on her. How easy is it to remove the broken-off plastic bits from the track? Can i do that without removing the rear glass panel or dropping the headliner? I have little pieces in my track now causing havoc. Thanks again, this is just what I was looking for!!!
Glad it helps! The broken pieces: Just depends on where they are. Usually they're up front and you can fish them out, but a couple of times I've had to take the rear glass loose and get to them in the back. You don't have to take it out. Just remove the front one (you'll have it out already anyway), go ahead and take the trough out (you had it loose anyway), then remove the Torx 25 bolts holding the rear glass in. (I think there are 3 on each side, might be 4). Then just slide the rear glass forward so you can see the rear of the track.
Thank you thank you thank you. I heard one of the plastic pieces break about a year or two ago and haven’t used my sunroof since in fear that I’ll never get it closed. I got the courage to use it today and sure enough my sunroof got stuck open and it started to rain 10 minutes later. Thankfully I was close to home. I got the arms from the dealership for about $130 and changed them quickly and easily myself. I’d be interested in a video on the rear middle window. The pulley on the bottom driver side popped off and now my window slowly opens on its own and I have to manually push it shut daily. The cable is too tight to re-hook it. Not sure if I need to buy a whole new assembly or if there’s a easier way to loosen and reattach the cable ball into slot/pocket on the window.
Thanks. Very informative video. The quality of the vid is outstanding. Good job. I have an appointment to get mine repaired and of course I'm fully expecting the Dealer Shuffle.
Hopefully not. Of course, I'm a specialist subcontractor for dealers, so I do more of these than probably anyone, but these are very routine around here. I guess YMMV if a random tech that has to work on everything get ahold of it.
Great Video, trying to fix my 2017 F-150, The sunroof will not stay closed unless I stop it with the button and it will not go into the vent postion, any tips?
@@Annie-pr4mc Might be a bad motor then. The new ones are updated so you would have to replace both of them because the old ones will not program together with the new one
Very great video i bought the 2 rails but i noticed that the piece that was also broken was the one attached to the end of the chain looking thing is this common? Thanks!
Not sure which piece you're talking about. If it's the long black piece that runs from side to side, that's the trough, or "drip tray" and they do break occasionally.
Vent or tilt the sunroof, then take off the concertina shields (the accordion things) and there are 3 screws on each side holding the glass in. I have a video on that, too
Thanks for the video - I found both my arms need to be replaced. When looking at what happened I noticed that the Driver side and the Passenger side arms are not equal. The passenger side arm is about 5” back/behind the Driver side arm. I ran the Sunroof Initialization a few times but it did not line up the two arms - any suggestions? The point of reference I am measuring from is where the arm is attach to the track - the round head you push through the arm to attach the arm to the track.
Hi sir, thank you for the video. I am running into an issue though. In order to get my tracks to line up I had to run the sunroof system reset after I took the glass off. The tracks did line up during the reset process however now I cannot get the sunroof in the tilt position in order to get the new arms back on. When I hit the close button I hear the motor responding but no movement. When I hit the open or tilt button there is no sound or response at all. Any tips or advise you could give me would be much appreciated!
@@SealofPerfection Yes, the motor runs when I hit the close button and continues to run until I release it. There is no response or noise when I hit the open or tilt button. I tried doing the reset cycle again and only the sun visor responses. It seems like it is not recognizing that is is in the closed position or the motor is no longer connected to the pulley mechanism.
@@SealofPerfection Yes sir, its running steadily. It seemed like the reset initially worked because it processed trough all of the motions and no weird noises as if something would have come loose. But after that no response when I push the buttons. I am getting the hint that the reset should only be done with the glass in place?
@@chrismyers1413 No, I've done the reset many times without the glass. If the motor is humming along and nothing is moving, then something else is broken, and everything else only comes with the entire track. The lower guides...the part with the round piece that sticks through the hole on the arms....take a screwdriver and see if either one of them moves freely. They shouldn't.
Do you know what the part is called that the accordion blind attaches to? You slid it back and called it a trough guide…It also sits in the middle of the track and slides back and forth..That is also broken on my truck.
Great video and extremely helpful. I was unable to get the sunroof to the vented position, but the ramps were so badly damaged I was still able to remove them. The new guides would not go on with the position the sunroof was in, so I tried to reset the the sunroof. It worked and the slide finally came forward enough that the round part would go through the hole. The problem is that I believe it came too far forward and will not longer slide back. When I try to push the close button, the motor makes a grinding sound. The vent and open button do nothing at all. Any recommendations?
Yikes. A grinding sound means the motor is moving but the cable is not, and the gear is jumping against the cable. That means one of the cables is totally jammed and won't slide. It usually means the track is toast and needs replacing. To figure it out and possibly save it, you can drop the headliner in the rear, and loosen the sunroof motor. It's the one on the driver's side. There are two identical motors back there, and the passenger side one runs the shade. So, the motors have 3 Torx 25 screws in them. Remove one, and loosen the other two so they are just barely in there, and you can drop the motor down to where the gear isn't contacting the cables anymore. Remove the glass, and try to manually (I use a big screwdriver) move the guides. One will be stuck. Then you need to find whatever is stopping it from moving. Should be a plastic piece from the old guides, most likely. If you find it and remove it, then put the guides even with each other, tighten the motor back up, and you might get lucky. If not, you'll need a new track, unfortunately.
Thanks for the quick reply! You're awesome. I was able to remove the motor today and both guides slide freely. I do not believe an obstruction is the issue. I tried all three cycles with the motor out and the motor only turns when I am pushing the close button. When vent or open are pushed, nothing happens. I am wondering if the issue now might be in the motor. I did notice some metal shavings around the gear. I think I am going to replace the motor regardless, but do you think the motor could be the problem that it will only go one direction?
If you want, you could swap the motor from the shade over there, program it and see if it works. They are identical. They always have shavings and material on them, though. And especially if it was grinding. That probably isn't the issue. If the guides are moving freely when you do it manually, you probably cleared whatever was restricting them whether you knew you did it or not. Absolute worst case scenario is, the cables are damaged. But that is very rare. Try the shade motor and see if it moves the glass. Then put the glass motor to run the shade...it's much less load. Hopefully that'll do it.
Thank you, Pacfanweb! I apologize my response is delayed, but I was able to get it working. I pulled the shade motor out and hooked it up to the sunroof side. It would also only run when I pushed the close button, so I figured my sunroof motor was fine. I put it all back together and initialized and I have a working sunroof. For anyone interested, I was able to find a way around it if you are unable to get the sunroof to the vented position. I can’t say I recommend it, but it worked for me. If it doesn't work, you'll be stuck replacing the whole track, but I didn't see any other option. My sunroof would not go from fully opened to closed. It would get stuck about a half inch from being up all of the way. I followed Pacfanweb right up until 3:25 of the video. If you aren’t in the vented position this is where you will get stuck. You can see the round piece in the video is approximately ¾ of an inch from the hole. When you aren’t vented you are much further away. I was approximately 4 inches. The piece of the guide that slides through the track (Pacfanweb’s finger is almost pointed at it at 1:25 of the video) is actually small piece of metal coated in a lot of plastic. I took a small flat screwdriver and started prying little pieces of the plastic off at the seam between the plastic and metal. I was able to break enough of it off that I could eventually pull the slide out of the track while the round piece was still in the guide. Once the slide was out, I could easily push the guide back far enough to pull the round piece through the circle. The other side worked out the same way. Make sure you clean out any plastic pieces from the track. The next problem you’re stuck with is that the round parts are attached to the cable and they will not budge. You cannot slide them far enough forward to get the round part back through the hole of the new track. You need to drop the rear headliner and get to the motor. The one on the drive side is the sunroof motor. I dropped the motor which freed up the cable. Using the video, I eyeballed where the round parts should be on the track. I also measured to make sure both sides were lined up. Once lined up, put the motor back in so that it locks the round piece back in place. Then continue on from 4:25 in the video forward.
Great video! Hopefully I don't need it but I do have a related question. My 2018 F-150 moonroof opens to vent just fine but when I try to fully open the window it shutters lightly as it opens. It operates as advertised when closing. I don't see any broken parts and was wondering if there are any recommended lubrication points that would help resolve this issue.
Worked like a champ! The extended warranty people said the guides were "exterior" trim and not covered on my 2015 F-150 King Ranch ...I have one question: Is there a way to test the glass when you put it back in for leaks? Or do they all leak some into the sunroof pan? I have some water coming in at the rear glass/front glass right in the corner on both sides. It seems to drain fine but I was wondering if that is normal? Or if there is a way to make it fit tighter during reinstall of the glass
It's normal. That's what the trough and drains are for. All sunroofs pass water like this. You can have someone run water over it and try adjusting the glass up/down where they meet and you might find a point that it slows it down some, but it will never totally stop it. Even brand new ones on the lot do it.
Replaced both brackets with the ones from Sunroof Doctor. Ran the reprogramming without issues. After I tried to make sure all off the functions we working properly, the sunroof got stuck again. Snapped the bottom edge of one of the brackets below the channel for the sliding pin. I can send a pic. Thoughts?
I have the cable at the motor spins broke and one side of the guild that connects to the rail is broken. Do they make a after market part for that? Only part I can find it the whole frame assembly. Not sure if the assembly comes with the parts I need. Thank you
What if the shuttles that ride the rails with the knob are not lined up anymore and in synch with each other from side to side? Right now I’ve got the passenger side plastic part replaced, however the drivers side shuttle is in a completely different location on the rails and I cannot reinstall the new plastic guide.
If the lower guide is not lined up with the other side, it'll never work until you manually line them up again. To do so, you'll need to pull down the headliner in the rear and loosen/drop the sunroof motor down so the gear is disengaged from the cables. It's the motor on the driver side (really kind of in the middle) and it's attached with 3 Torx #25 screws. Loosen them enough to disengage it. Then with the glass out, you can manually (I use a big screwdriver) push the lower guides all the way forward until they are at the absolute max tilted position. That way, you'll know they're lined up instead of trying to eyeball them in the closed position. Then tighten the motor back up, reinstall the glass and proceed with the initialization and you should be good.
Great video! What kind of grease do you recommend for the track? Also, what would you recommend for lubrication for the seal around the sunroof afterwards? Thank you very much!!
Do you have video on adjusting sunroof. Track broke on my 2015 f150 Removed glass to get broken piece out and ordered new part Sunroof is now lower with airleak
I don't, but I adjust this way: Open it, then close it. (not vented, regular open) Adjust the back to where the rubber is slightly higher than the rear glass. Adjust the front to where the rubber is flush with the roof. Note that sometimes they won't go that high, and in that case you just adjust it as far as it will go.
First let me say thank you for the video. I had a local garage tell me since this is so " Labor Intensive" (their words not mine) it would be $640.I will tackle this job soon...doesn't seem that labor intensive to me. Thanks again
I can do these in about 20 minutes. It's not remotely "labor intensive". It's intimidating to some that haven't tried it, but once you do it...if you're even remotely comfortable with tools, you'll be glad you did. Probably the shop that quoted you either wanted to replace the entire track, or they simply didn't realize what was involved.
I just had a sunroof shop who said they do "dozens of these a week", and try to tell me it took hours, they had to take off the roof panel, and sides, etc... even after I told them I have a 2017 (older models do require this). Scammers.... I never mind paying for work, but they wanted 850 for what should take them 20 mins. Even at 1 hour of labor and parts, that's an insane markup. Gonna try this myself.
This is such a money-saving video. Thank you for all the details and tips. BTW, don't be tempted by those cheap Amazon and Ebay arms. Don't do it. They won't align right. Buy from Sunroof Doctor or the stealership.
On one side of my sunroof, I am missing the black plastic piece that goes next to the tabs (the piece that is attached with the two small screws). Is this piece absolutely necessary for install? I can't find that piece by itself to purchase anywhere. Thank you.
I am trying to replace my sunroof rails, but to do it, it has to be in the vented position. My problem is that button doesnt do anything. The only one that has any reaction is the forward button that Just shifts a little, but doesnt do anything. The rear button doesnt do any either which tells me the truck thinks the sunroof is back, but it is not. Is there anyway to manually vent it so I can get it apart and replace the rails?
@@SealofPerfectionWould that be the initialization procedure and just stop once it vents? If not, which video is it? I think I watched them all now and havent seen a way to manually vent it.
@@stevek3270 no use the one where you can manually align the guides. Instead of aligning them you can just run them all the way to vent while the motor is dropped
saw a video of a guy that just removed the broken piece and it worked just fine. I can get mine to go back if I just push down on one side that sticks. should I still replace both, or see if a broken piece is holding it up and remove that piece. Also you said that it has to be reprogrammed. DO i have to bring it to Ford for that?
No, I have a video of how to program it, too. I have removed the broken piece that was jamming the lower guide and then it worked...but once the arms start coming apart, they will keep coming apart, so you might as well replace them because they are going to fail again eventually.
I followed your instructions and completed the replacement of the guide arms. Thank you for the clear instructions. Unfortunately this didn't fix my issue. I found about a 1 inch plastic piece in the rail and couldn't find the culprit, I have no clue where that piece came from. During initialization the vent portion tries to adjust and attempts to move the glass with no success. I was reading that the plastic piece I found could be from the track and it might need to be replaced. Your thoughts?
If it's this piece, it's part of the lower cable guide, and requires a track to replace, unfortunately cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150forum.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_2511_21edc2835f0d8d801357a4d8b099e98670412bee.jpg
@@SealofPerfection I found your post on F150 forum. I have the expensive repair! Really sucks! I have to find someone in NC that can fix this. Thanks for the help.
@@SealofPerfection @@SealofPerfection Really!? Do you fix these for a living? If your close can I set up an appointment. Is there anyway to PM on RUclips?
@@numbthumb5636 I do this for a living, yes. Raleigh area. You'd still need to get the track, though. I do mostly dealership work, and they typically have the parts there.
My sunroof is currently stuck in the full open position. I followed another video on you tube and unplugged the motors thinking it would allow me to slide the glass forward to get in the close position then plug the motor back up to open to the vent position to fix. Well that didn’t work. The glass still is stuck. Any suggestions how to get it closed to even begin to repair?
That means some of the broken pieces are restricting the movement. Usually I just force it shut over top of the broken pieces and you just have to take your chances that it's not going to break the lower part of the track. You really don't have any other choice. Back the glass up a little bit so you can get a running start and just push it really hard
But what causes these parts to break is it the lack of lubrication between the sunroof seal and the body of the truck or what ? Is there any preventive maintenance ?
It's several things. One is, the parts were too weak and they have been redesigned and are stronger now. Two, the glass "sticking" puts an enormous strain on the arms when you open them. You can lube the seal to stop this. I have a video on where to lube it. Three, that area where the sunroof track "lives" between the headliner and the roof gets HOT. Very, very hot. It takes a toll on the plastic components over time.
Well, I was almost ready to make the 16hr drive to have you fix my truck. Had a body shop helping me to find the problem. We couldn't find any obstacles in the track. Was ready to give up and a second guy in the body shop took a look. Lo and behold he saw a plastic piece in rail! We removed and now it moves to vent position. Praise the Lord! A few questions... 1) I saw some green substance on screws that hold in the rear and front glass. I assume some type of thread lock. Do I need to use some loctite on threads? 2) do you have a torque spec for the small torx screws? 3) the new rails that I got from my local Ford dealer came with the plastic bag cut open and some type of black lubricant covering the whole new rails. Do they normally come lubed or had someone tried them and returned them? 4) Should I clean them off and put fresh lube on? What is the best to use? 5) last, any pointers on adjusting the front and rear glass when reinstalling? Thank you for all your help!
They have recently started to come with the lube already on them. So I am using it instead of mine. I still would put something on the track where it'll slide, though. Liquid Wrench Lithium with Cerflon is good. 3M Silicone Paste is also good, and it works as well for lubing the seal where the windows meet. I have a video for that, too. It's a MUST to do. I don't bother with Loctite. I tighten them snugly with my electric drill. Don't crank them down ridiculously. Adjustment: Make the front even/level with the roof. Same with the back glass. Start the back of the front window slightly higher than level with the back window, because it usually drops a bit the first time or two after you open it. So I start it a millimeter or two high, and then it ends up right where you want it. And again, be SURE to clean/lube that seal. And then initialize it.
Wish I knew it had to be vented to do this up front cuz now the slide pins or whatever they're called on each side connected to the cable are not aligned with each other. Is there a way to get them even with each other again or is it screwed?
Need to drop the roof motor in the rear, then you can manually line them up. And I'm pretty sure I say in the video it has to be vented. I don't know how you got them in there without it being vented.
I truly appreciate you!!! I just bought a 2020 Lariat and it came with the dual moonroof. I've honestly opened it 1x, and frankly I'm inclined to never open it again, seeing the other posts/channels mentioning the failures...just in case it has an issue. I'm hoping that the plastic has been replaced by metal in the 2020 year, but I'm pretty sure it hasn't, would you know if the track mechanisms are metal now? if so, it would help to ease my concerns, I think?
The actual track itself that everything mounts into has always been metal. The lower guides, which can break sometimes, are a mixture of metal and plastic. You can guess which part breaks.
So it won't stay up against the glass? Better look and see if the springs are still in place. They are hooked to the plastic pieces that you bend and pull on the arm to get loose. If you forgot to put that part back in place, that'd do it
Just ordered the rails for my 2018 F150. My sunroof is stuck in the full open position. I saw a post on a Ford forum where you mentioned you can force it closed. Do you have any videos to post showing how to do this? Thank you!
I don't have one of me doing that, sorry. Basically you have the engine running and someone to hold the clothes button continuously, and then you grab the metal frame of the front glass and pull it as hard as you can forward while the glass is moving and you basically try to force it to overcome the broken pieces that are making it back up. Sometimes it takes a few tries and you do run the risk of breaking something else, but there's really no other way to do it because you cannot take the glass out while it's retracted.
@@SealofPerfection Took me about 8-10 tries but I finally was able to get it to close. And I found the broken piece of plastic in the track. Thanks for the awesome video and reply. Next up, replacing the rail!
Any idea what would cause the glass to not close as soon as it hits the wind deflector arm? I just replaced the upper guides and if I hold the deflector arm down just a bit then it will close
Thanks for the video! 2015 f-150... replaced the ‘rails’ as you mention above. Still got the snap crackle and pop when I tried to open sunroof. It looks like the small plastic part that lined up with rail busted on one side. Is there any else that can be replaced consumer friendly ? I don’t see any other parts that can be purchased. Is this a complete sunroof kit replacement issue?
Into Several pieces, and the two metal pins that slide into the arms . Drivers side rail appears to have become disconnected/broken from the actual moving motor driven guide. Only engages in the most forward position? Not sure if it that makes sense. Now even when the roof glass is put back on, it won’t pull up snug enough to seal tightly. Now my main concern is not even sunroof operating, just keeping the rain /leaks out. I realize it’s super hard to diagnose through a description. Thank you again, I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
@@mmcardwell If you're saying the lower guide that moves, the one that sticks up and has the round piece is loose? That's bad. That means track replacement. You can't get those part separately. One thing you can try to get it to the "closed" position: Pull the headliner down in back. Loosen the motor. 3 Torx #25's. Drop it down enough to disengage the gear. Then you should be able to use a screwdriver or something to force the lower guide to the "closed" position, or hopefully close to it. Get them lined up and in sync with each other, anyway. Then you tighten the motor and probably unplug it so nobody accidently opens it and you have to start over.
@@SealofPerfection thank you! Did that and at least got the roof glass back in. Do you just eyeball the glass/rubber seals when you align that front piece of roof glass, to match the back piece more or less? And lastly, what’s the easiest way to ‘disconnect sunroof power but still allow for the sunshade to be used? Fuse? Black tape over the 3 sunroof buttons ? :-P Man, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Been a big help.
@@mmcardwell I usually just install the front one a hair higher than the rear, as they always settle back to about flush. To get to the motor, you pull down the headliner in the rear, it's the motor on the driver side of the car. Make sure the shade is where you want it before you disconnect the motor, because once you disconnect the motor, neither will work
So how would you remove the little slide with the round thing that vents the glass up and down? I normally remove the hole frame and set on a table, rivets from the back should be 3 on each side, pry apart because it will have glue and then slide everything out of the back! More labor intensive for sure as you have to unmount side air bags so wouldn't recommend this to anyone without experience. Just asking if its possible sliding it forward
You talking the lower part? You can't replace it. The parts aren't offered, except with the entire track. They DO offer them for the 2014 and earlier trucks, but not for the 15 and newer.
Question if you can help at all please. Got a 2015 f150 platinum I removed the glass and the tilt part was piped out of the groove I got them popped on then removed the rails for replacement Should the motor and everything still work without glass in or does it bypass All mine will do now is make grinding noise from motor. Thanks
Did you fish out the broken pieces? And did you make sure the two lower guides, the part with the round piece, are still in sync (lined up) with each other?
@@SealofPerfection It's in and works great. Your video was super helpful. Lubing up that back seal made a huge difference too. Seriously works better than new after the grease that you suggested in another video.
Did you purchase the replacement parts from a Ford dealer? I have the problem and have confirmed broken plastic in the rail/ramp/guides. Just need the parts to repair.
Yep, I am a water leak and sunroof repair specialist and I did the job for a local dealer here. Parts came from their own parts dept. Roughly 150 for the parts, give or take.
@Yar Nunya Just saw this. Where does the water drain from? The door itself? The door drains on these models are ridiculously small and very prone to getting clogged up. I clean then out and enlarge them a bit, but there's only so much you can do...they are just a bad design and will always be susceptible to blockage.
Will the replacement for 2013 F150 be the same? Everything I saw on RUclips shows people taking their entire interior apart to replace the plastic brackets
Thanks for the video. I performed this repair on my 2016 Lariat yesterday. Everything was straight forward and went well. However, after using the roof several times throughout the day....It broke off a chunk of the plastic from the brand new guide while closing at the end of the day. What other part of the system would you recommend that I look at now? I'm thinking something has to be slightly bent or warped.
You 100% sure it's not a piece of plastic from the old broken ones? I've never seen one break that quickly. And you lubed the rear of the window seal as well?
I installed the new tracks but now i cannot get the horizontal plastic drip tray that meets in the center of both pieces of glass to stay up when the sunroof is closed. I can pull it back in place under the the clips on either side and it hold the plastic tray up i can open the sunroof and it hold up but when i close the sunroof the tray just hangs amd it rattles like hell any ideas?
If the drip tray is attached to both guide arms like it's supposed to be, then that would place it right on top of those "springs" that it sits on, that hold it tight against the glasses when closed.
Question, my dealership has done this repair like 4 times .. now I've noticed a small gap onlh in the corners where the 2 sunroof glasses meet. Was told by my dealership that this is normal and there is a trough that collects any water that gets through and drains it under the truck. Well mine is flooding my vehicle. Any thoughts. Was told that you have to remove the dash and seats to remove the sunroof assy, could r hey have left something disconnected thats causing this to leak. Leak seems to be equal on both sides, but all electronics on passenger floor got soaked. Any help is greatly appreciated.
It IS normal, and there IS a trough...however, it can only collect so much before it gets overwhelmed. And the drains have to be flowing perfectly to keep up. If yours is a 15 or 16, there is an updated seal that fits tighter that will greatly slow the water down. Catch is, it only comes on a new glass, which is pretty expensive, but it does work. Could they have left something loose? Heck yeah...if they forgot to plug the drain hoses back in, that would definitely do it. You don't have to remove the dash at all to do the sunroof. The book does say you have to remove the seats, though. I don't do it that way, but that's how the manual says to do it. But not the dash.
So mine is having the same issues, the arm is broken just like the one in the video, but the "round thing" is already in the end of the slot, almost ready to pop out and not connected at all to the cable underneath that moves the sunroof back and forth. is this normal or is that piece broken as well? in other words, how is that "round thing" attached to the cable that slides back and forth to activate Vent, Closed, and Open modes? does it pop on and off, or if its not connected do i have bigger problems?
You're saying the "round thing", which is the lower guide, moves freely? If so, that's bad news, it means you have to have the whole track assembly. If it's just out of time or sync with the other side, no prob...you just drop the sunroof motor loose and line them up again.
@@SealofPerfection yea i looked at it closer after pulling the ramps out and both of them are disconnected/broken off from the cable. i cant find the piece that connected them on either side, my only hope i think is to carefully form a jb weld bond around the cable and guide without getting any in the track.
@@nateb26 Were you able to fix yours? Mine broke on the driver's side. I was hoping to somehow fix it without replacing the entire track assembly just because of a small plastic part.
My girlfriend and I took my truck to Raleigh from wilmington because I was quoted $ 1049.00 from DES in wilmington nc, I was lucky enough to speak with Pacfan and he said bring it up when our schedules match. I brought it up yesterday and this man saved me 700$ and knows his stuff when it comes to these sunroof/ moonroofs etc! Mine had complications initionlizing alignment and the man swapped the blind motor with the sunroof motor everything he could do besides just saying you need a whole new set up that would cost 2000$ possibly. He fixed it along with his two helpers !!! So thankful I met you guys Thanks So much for everything you did, you saved me a huge amount of money and the hassle of dealing with an incompetent company in wilmington nc when it comes to this exact issue... 😉🙂
Replaced rails on my wife's 2018 Ford Expidition Limited! You Sir are a life saver / money saver, and we thank you for your guidance! Dealer wanted charge me over $1K for a complete sunroof kit, Sunroof Doctor $166.86. Patients is key even for a mechanically inclined individual, and yes the cuss words came out. Very Helpful, Greatly Appreciated!
2019 F350 King Ranch. Sunroof jammed almost closed..Did your system reset to get it to close (*Thanks for posting). Brought truck to Bell Ford in Phoenix, Arizona and was quoted $4000 to replace the ENTIRE track and frame because "it's a one piece unit, INCLUDING MOTORS and it's cracked and broken". Brought truck home and watched your videos...seemed easy enough enough so I ordered parts from Sunroof Doctor. Quick delivery. Watched the video a number of times as I did the left side...probably took and hour from start to replaced. Second side took about 15 minutes. Another 15 to adjust, tighten, and run system reset (*again, thanks for that). Found broken bits in both tracks but now it's smooth as silk. You saved me $4000 dollars and I'm never going to Bell Ford again. THANK YOU! Wish I could send you a few bucks....
Sweet! Glad you got it fixed. And dang, 4k for the track? Whew. Last track I priced was 1,800, and it's 600 to install. I usually don't do the motors if they're still working.
It's not a "one piece unit", either. You buy the track, motors, shade, rear trough and deflector separately.
Usually when you do a track, you have a new track, and you just reuse the other stuff.
Thank you!! My 2017 F150 Lariat with the moon roof started crunching and wouldn’t close. I tried to get the parts from the dealer but they wanted to sell me 1K worth of parts. Got the rails from the sunroof doctor and followed your video step by step and worked perfectly. Can’t tell you how thankful I am!
This is one of the best repair videos I've seen- and it should be the _top_ result when you look up F150 sunroof repair. Thanks to this video I showed up with the right tools, the right screw heads (yes there _is_ a difference between phillips heads) and the right mindset. Saved me a buttload of money at the dealer, and felt like I had a good buddy or a neighbor walk me through it.
The only trouble I ran into was at 4:36, and that was solved by some extra lube. (Yes, my inner Beavis is laughing right now).
Instead of giving the dealership a whole mess of money, I bought the top end Dewalt screwdriver kit with bits, and it made this a relative breeze. You should seriously consider enabling "Super Thanks" or tippping on this video, I'd gladly kick over $20 for the nonsense this video saved me from experiencing.
Hey thanks a lot for the kind words. You will get a lot of use out of that DeWalt equipment. I know I do. I thought I did have super thanks available and enabled, I don't know if it shows up on every video or not though. I know it's on my about page.
Maybe I have to go through every video and add it.
@@SealofPerfectionok, I see it in the app now, sent. Thanks again!
Dude, THANK YOU so flipping much. I just got tagged for another deployment and I needed to get this done ASAP. I wasn’t trying to give the stealership between $1400-$2500 depending on what was broken. Much appreciated man. Great detailed video.
GB
Thank you and you are very welcome. Glad to help. Stay safe
Thank you so much! This worked on my 2018 F150. I got the part from Sunroof Doctor and it fit fine. I decided NOT to go Amazon although the part was cheaper, but I figured it wasn't worth the risk.
Just a few tips: You HAVE to have your sunroof vented to get the arm out. Do this BEFORE you start to work on it. Do NOT touch the sunroof control buttons during the repair - you are going to break stuff! (Thank you Super Glue!). Watch his video on how to remove the sunroof, it's just 3 bolts on each side.
Just replaced the rails on my 2015 F150 using this for reference, went perfectly! Thanks for documenting this process.
Have you had any issues with your sunroof since this rail replacement?
@@corycutrell5901 - No issues at all. Still works like new. Was really easy to do the replacement as well.
My man! THANK YOU! I owe you big time @pacfanweb !! I just finished replacing my broken rail on my F150 '16 Vista Sunroof for $150. Also followed your vid on initializing procedure. The sunroof is now back to fully functioning order and no wind noise. Dude, I'm in Raleigh and I owe you lunch. If I can send you a gift card or something It would be my pleasure. You just saved me a least a grand. Everything was just as you said. I was using shitty tools and I did it in 100 degree heat we had yesterday. Even still it only took me about an hour. Also, I didn't buy Krytox. I found a solid brand on Amazon that makes silicone lube for a very reasonable price.
Great to hear it. I've been using 3m silicone paste instead of the Krytox for awhile now on the seal.
I use the silicone paste or another type of Teflon lube on the track parts themselves.
How did you replace the rail? Where did you find the part? Places where I live want to charge me $1500-$3600 to repair/replace broken rail.
My 2018 just went. I found several plastic pieces. Will take it out with this great video and check out the entire panoramic sunroof to replace all parts needed. I can not thank you enough for your videos. THANKS!
Just finished this install on my 2017 Raptor. I can’t thank you enough for your 3 videos on this process with all the details.
Glad it helped! Remember to keep the seal cleaned and lubed and the new parts will last longer
Is this a permanent fix? If so do I get it from Ford?
@@mewho4393 It's new parts to replace the failed ones. Whether it's "permanent" or not, time will tell. I don't think the arms are beefed up any, but it's not a patch job since you are literally replacing all the broken parts here.
You can get them from Ford or Sunroof Doctor, who sells the same parts. Probably Amazon and other places, too
@pacfanweb thank you
I have my raptor at the dealer now for this. They're telling me I need new rails a its $3300!!! Are you near Chicago? Lol
Thanks so much for posting all 3 videos - it works great! Folks, while you have the glass out, make sure you run some water through the drain holes up there and make sure all 4 drain quickly. My rear passenger side drain tube was apparently crimped closed during original assembly. when that happens, the channels over flow sending water down the nearest pillar,, soaking your carpets. Then you get mold and mildew and a wonderful smelling truck. Fingers crossed that that is now fixed. Will also do the AC drain while I am at it.
Check the rear cabin vent behind the seat and the rear sliding glass while you're at it.
They have leaks from everywhere
Shame on ford on these sunroofs.... water leaks, can’t drive over 20mph with them open and plastic parts break an leave you with a stuck open sunroof on a $70k Limited truck.. that’s bs
Alfred Ferrill How come you can’t drive over 20mph? Thanks!
Alfred Ferrill let me know if you can comment on this. I have had mine open driving over mph no problems. Is there something I should be looking for?
@@velvetsmoooth4980 Driving with them open isn't what breaks them. Simply the act of opening them is what does that.
Keep the seal lubed and always vent it first before opening it fully.
@@SealofPerfection Hi, The dealer says my track is too far out of sync to just replace arms. Is there truth to that?
@@BLAKJAKG Possibly. If one arm got totally stuck and the cables slipped, it might have damaged the cables. A dealer isn't going to take a chance that can be worked around, they're going to replace the track.
I've run across many where they were out of sync....you drop the sunroof motor, and manually line them up again, then tighten the motor back up. The cables won't move when the gear on the motor is engaged with the cables, so you have to drop it.
If it just slipped and the cables aren't damaged, then you're good to go like this and just replace the arms. I've done a bunch of them this way.
However, I have seen a few that were too damaged to work again and they needed tracks...usually those were ones where they got stuck open and someone forced them shut.
So odds are, it can be saved, but there is a chance it's too far gone. Only way to find out is try it.
Thanks for the video. I completed this repair today. Took about 1.5 hour. Your video made the process simple I think the most challenging part was getting the new rail on the track ( not hard just had to work a little to get it in track).
Yeah, there's one certain position it has to be in for the little "feet" to go in there. Hard to show on camera. I used to struggle with them but have done so many now it's a piece of cake. You did fine.
Did both sides as I had the parts anyway. Nicely explained! I got everything out, cleaned, greased and re-installed. Went to test before I put the glass back on.....and broke the drivers side drive cable bracket at the top. So now....the next video!
At least now you know how part of the repair is going to go
Dealer did mine today. Ford Part #FL3Z-1651070-C
Sunroof started acting up and was making noise when on bumpy roads, dirt, snow, etc. Found the 2 pieces of broken plastic in the tracks. Sunroof worked for a little while then it ended up getting stuck open. Unfortunately did it after warranty. the DIY job in this video is good stuff for others!
Fl3z-1651070c
Thanks so much for posting this vid!
The duel moonroof panel just collapsed on my 2017 F-150 Lariat. Seems like this is a common issue and I’m sure this vid will help a ton of people!
Thank you for this and all of your F-150 sunroof videos. I watched several and it gave me the information I needed to get my sunroof unstuck and closed before the rain comes. The rails still need replacing but if I can't get the dealership to replace it under warranty I will feel comfortable replacing it myself thanks to you and these videos.
Thank you!
This was very helpful. I just did this work on my truck and referenced all 3 of your videos on it. The only thing I would add is after you remove the glass make sure the sunroof mechanism is moved to the forward position before you start the disassembly process. Mine was back and I was having difficulty getting the tracks out...moving it forward worked and it was a breeze after.
Glad it helped. Yes, it has to be in the vented position in order to do this repair. Pretty sure I state that in the video at some point
Your video's are awesome. I was able to replace the ramps and reset the sunroof and shade using your video's. Everything worked great, until I installed the accordian covers. I then got the opportunity to learn that the motor closing operation will stop and take the sunroof all the way back to full open if something causes the closing motor to work to hard. Had a heart attack, then decided to remove the accoridan covers just in case those were causing the sunroof to not close. Good news, the sunroof closed as it had before. So, I decided I dont really need those accordian covers on there anyway. Thank you for showing us how to do this repair.
All those do is cover up the greasy stuff and keep fingers from getting caught in the mechanism. If you have enough sense not to stick your fingers up in there, they serve no other purpose. So you're fine leaving them off
@@SealofPerfection There is a guide behind the part you are showing. Do you know if it can be purchased? Mine is broken
@Phil Hrenchir Mine was doing the same thing it would hit the accordion cover rod and would open back up I did the rest procedure and it worked fine
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you,
My 2015 F-150 that I build online and ordered with every single option(Pricey!), then of course the sunroof broke at 36024 miles, Ford would not honor the warranty. Even after I called it in before 36000. 😒
I took this apart a year ago to see if it was possible to repair. I saw the broken plastic slides and thought that I would have to remove the headliner to repair. You are amazing... I ordered the slides on sunroof doctor, installed and reprogrammed. (after cleaning and applying 3m silicone paste). IT'S PERFECT!!!
Fantastic! Glad to hear you got it working
I got the same answer from the dealer as well. Mine was 4 miles out of warranty from the first time it was fixed. They said nothing they can do but if I pay them $130 they will evaluate the issue and submit it to Ford and see if they would cover any of the repairs.
Thanks for the vids on this. It’s folks like you that take the time to show how to fix things that make a difference in this world.
@@icky007 Thanks for the kind words. I am self-employed and do this for a living, but I figure I can't get to them all, so might as well see if what I do can help someone.
I certainly have come to RUclips to see if anyone has seen something I'm looking at for the first time more than once, so giving back seemed like a good idea.
What's kind of funny is when I have to watch my own video to remember how to do something, lol
Thanks! You really helped me out! The job took me around an hour doing it my first time and went perfectly smoothly!
I wish I could give this video another thumbs up! I just finished a second vista roof repair and this video helped refresh me on all the steps. I must say this roof is so much easier to repair vs the single panel moonroofs on older F150s and Expeditions that you have to remove the headliner, I have done so many of those jobs.
I followed you RUclips video, but I must have gotten a little too aggressive popping out that pin at min: 3:53, as now that pin has been broken out of it's plastic holders on the rail. What do I have to get to fix that. Sunroof Doctor doesn't show any additional pieces for the 2017 F150
I did it just like you said in the video. Got parts from Amazon for 69 bucks. Works like new now. Thanks 🎸🎸
2018 F-350 Great videos.....THANK YOU Currently replacing the lower guides / cables and upper arms. Putting it all together and the "other arms" that are the same size as the upper arms are broken. Just the passenger side arm.....is there somewhere to purchase that. Do you happen to have a used one. It is the arm you are moving from 7:05 - 7:30 It is broke right where the upper are goes in to it. Appreciate any help you might have on that. Or is it something that i can get away with. It goes back but i don't to see if being able to move forward well. Thank you. Kevin
That is the trough guide and it is also the piece that your concertina blind attaches to. It is not available separately. You can only get it with a new track
These videos are great for this if it’s just that rail on both sides. I had replaced my passenger side and was working on my driver side and noticed something odd. What little movement I could do only moved the diver side and not the passenger. Upon closer inspection, the little housing/plastic piece down in the rail for that back metal arm you pop out of that hole on the track, was broken. So that little arm wont move in the track at all. So much for saving me an INSANE amount at the dealership. Oh well.... Again, you did an AWESOME job with these vids and made them very easy to follow, but unfortunately it wont save me, unless you have a video/idea how to replace that little part haha. Thanks again for these man!
Unfortunately, if it's not your arms broken like in this video, it's lower in the track and that requires a new track. Which isn't easy or cheap.
I do them, too, but haven't made a video for that as it'd require someone else to film me doing it.
Pacfanweb Pacfanweb Yeahhhhhhhhh...that's what I figured haha. It's the arm coming out of the track that goes in that hole and slide up and down the track. Service desk guy says they do at least 2 a week...it's sad Ford knows this is an issue yet won't issue a TSB or fix the actual issue. Dude told me he won't even open his sunroof bc of it... Sad a Ford service guy is telling me this... He said they are going to try and salvage it if they can to save me money so fingers crossed!!! 🤞🤞🤞🤞 Thanks again for the videos though, you are saving people hundreds of thousands of dollars as a result!!!
Totally awesome followed this guide exactly and installed the new guides to my sunroof on my own. Thanks for posting!
Great video. Really helpful. I had a problem with mine it wouldn't lift at the back so I had to loosen the motor to get the brackets on. Unfortunately I forgot to hook up one of the drip tray arms and ran the sunroof and broke the arms. $390 later It's all working good.
I wish you would have checked my other video, you could have bought one off of 21 or newer and saved about half that money. But glad you got it fixed
Thanks!
Thank you, thank you. Great information. Watched all 3 videos about sunroof lube, removal and replace rails. Did job myself. Dealer said fix would be $1,500-$2500. Cost me $160. Parts from Sunroof Dr. I appreciate you sharing your experience and helping people out. What a nice thing you’ve done, must feel good!
I use the internet just like everyone else does to find out things I don't know, and this is one thing I thought that I'm pretty much an expert at that others might like help with. And I can't fix them all, but maybe I can help.
Excellent video quality - stable and informative with clear and accurate instruction. This saved me $3600 - dealer was going to swap the entire sunroof frame. This should be a recall given the number of failures. Got the part from SunroofDoctor.com (I called them to order and was amazed with their knowledge of the problem, the part, and the procedure). With your videos to remove the glass, fix the part and then reinitialize it, it was really a breeze. My total cost $170: part, tax, shipping and a cold beer. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Awesome, glad the videos helped and you got it fixed!
I’ve heard the newer fords have better parts and are not having this issue. If we get the parts from the sunflower doc are the newer parts?
I believe they have the same parts sold at the dealers.
If they have been upgraded I can't tell it. I've laid new ones and old ones side-by-side and I can't see any difference.
I guess it's possible that the plastic is stronger or something, but you'd think the parts book would say it was upgraded, and it doesn't.
Very useful demonstration, sir. I have a question. How could I decide if it's the sunroof arm malfunctioning or another part? Will you please explain this?
@@zainalsalimi8948 Done right here:
ruclips.net/video/chfqa9zQgS0/видео.html
@SealofPerfection, thanks for sharing your knowledge and helping out.
Can't thank you enough for the videos and all the quick responses to my many many questions. Mine was so bad I couldn't get it to the vent position to even start the rail replacement and then they got out of sync. Enjoy dinner on me, the gift card is on its way! 👍.
I’m having the same issue. How did you get it to the vent position? We’re you able to remove the glass without it being vented?
At 1:30, you move the trough guide out of the way. I've tried pulling the outside arm away from it to move the guide back, but the guide won't move back. The rear tab never fully clears its slot. Suggestions?
Do you have it vented? You can't create the clearance if it's not.
@Pacfanweb No. I turned power on to the truck and pushed the vent button. It does not operate the vent. The only buttons that work are the sunshade buttons. They will move it from fully back to halfway back and vice versa. I did find a broken plastic piece on the passenger side - it was laying loose, not wedged.
@@bills3866 Okay, so that's why. It must be vented to do the repair. It's not fully shut, so it won't go to vent.
Linked in the description is a video on how to manually align the lower guides.
You can also use that to manually place them in the vented position if it won't go by itself.
If you cannot get it to vent electrically, that might be worth a try.
@Pacfanweb After putting the front glass back on, I used your initialization video (thanks so much for that) and got it to the vent position. Will pick up this repair again, probably next week. The initialization procedure also allowed the shade to fully close which was my biggest issue for now since I rarely use the moonroof. Many thanks for your great videos and awesome help!
@@bills3866 Glad it worked. The shade won't shut more than halfway if it doesn't "think" the glass is fully shut. So if the glass is even a millimeter from totally shut, the shade only goes half shut.
You must have gotten it fully shut, which is also evidenced by the fact that it will now vent.
When you remove the glass again, take careful note of the broken pieces you fish out of the track. See my video about which pieces are which before you potentially waste time putting the arms in when the track itself might be bad. Hopefully, it won't be, but check to be sure.
Thank you sir. Just used your video to replace my tracks. Your instructions were perfect. Greatly appreciated!
Worked for me, very helpful video. Had some alignment issues but dropped the motor like you show in your other video and everything worked out
Thank you for making this video. Getting my new parts from the Sunroof Doctor tomorrow for around $154. BTW I call Ford parts first and the parts guy told me they redesigned this with 2 motors. He told me the price was $1600. I think my comment was "oh hell no"
That would be for an entirely new track. And they do now specify the 2 motors be replaced, too, but I don't see any reason to do so. The old ones will work fine, I've done a ton of them reusing the old motors.
If you do need one motor, though....you need them both, because the new ones will not initialize with an old one.
@@SealofPerfection I stripped one of the bolts on the sunroof motor and broke one of the plastic support brackets when trying to remove the stripped bolt. I ended up buying the same exact model of sunroof motor as the old one. I’m trying to initialize now with no luck. Any suggestions? In fact, nothing is working motor or shade… are they connected somehow?
Also, this is on a 2018 Navigator and the map lights turn on/off by touching the light not a map light button. Have you ever initialized one of these setups before? I’m having a hard time doing it in under 3 seconds (the Ford General Procedure for this vehicle is similar to that of an F150).
@@YamahaFreak1299 Problem is, if one of the motors is the new model and one is the old, they won't work together. If it won't do anything, that's probably the issue.
Somewhere around 2018-ish is when they put out a new upgraded motor. If you bought a new one, you may well still have the old style in your truck, and they will not work together.
@pacfanweb your video saved me a ton of money. My sunroof was stuck in the retracted position so I removed the three screws on each side and was able to slide it back out to the closed position and then up into the vented position. Then I bought the part from the dealer and installed within 2 hours! Thanks a ton!!!
And don't use it until you get the arms replace now and be sure to lube the seal where the two glasses meet
@@SealofPerfection yup! Got the silicone lube. Cleaned the rubber and lubed. Thanks!
Awesome video! I have one question. The piece you line up to pop off the rail has come off/out of the screw drive track. I cannot get them to line up nor can I find a position to get the roller down in the track.
Got everything back together! My issue is the round piece that hinges down onto the screw track is positioned differently passenger side to driver side. Can these be adjusted? I'm afraid to close and brake the new track.
@@zsc032284 If you're talking the round piece that goes through the larger part of the hole on the arms, then yes...they have to be lined up with each other.
If yours are not, then the cables have slipped.
Usually you can just re-align them and it's okay. In unlucky situations, the cables are damaged and you need a new complete track.
To re-align, you drop the sunroof motor down a bit to disengage the gear from the cables, then manually (usually with a big screwdriver for me) line them up with each other, then lock the motor back down and proceed normally.
The headliner in the rear is held up by strong magnets. Just pull down on it to get at the motor.
Drop the headliner in the rear, and loosen the sunroof motor. It's the one on the driver's side. There are two identical motors back there, and the passenger side one runs the shade.
So, the motors have 3 Torx 25 screws in them. Remove one, and loosen the other two so they are just barely in there, and you can drop the motor down to where the gear isn't contacting the cables anymore.
Then put the guides back in sync, and tighten the motor and you hopefully will be good.
At 3:21, you remove some part from somewhere but you can't see what it is or how you removed it because your hand was in the way. Can you explain what that is? Thanks in advance.
That was the plastic piece that has the 2 Phillips screws in it. Sorry, my daughter was filming and it didn't show, but if you back the video up to where I point out those 2 screws, it's the plastic piece that they are holding down.
I took my front glass off to find the tracks broken like most. Ordered new parts but my roof won’t vent so is there a way manually vent it? The two round knobs that pop through on the last step to remove the broken track, on mine are all the way at the back. Is there a way to get them to the front of the vehicle so they can be popped through?
@marcus smith I have the exact same problem, did you ever figure it out? When my tracks are all the way forward, the lower guides are all the way to the back of the channel and won't move. I removed the small plates from each side (the ones with 2 screws) thinking they may be keeping it from venting, but it still doesn't vent.
Would this be the same on a Ford F-150 Raptor 2013?
I heard a pop on one side and the moonroof is no longer closing.
Noticed a loos metal rod that is no longer engaged in the back end.
Would appreciate some advice...!
Unfortunately not. That is a completely different sunroof.
The only fixed through Ford is to replace the entire track.
There are aftermarket parts you can buy and basically disassemble the entire track Andre manufacturer it. It's much less expensive. Interesting, I looked at a Raptor yesterday with that exact problem. About the same year
@@SealofPerfection Went at the Ford dealership and they quoted me $4K to replace the entire sunroof, tracks, rail...!
IDIOTS!
CAN NOT TRUST A FORD DEALER EVER!
I do not know what to do...!
@@gt-c- Well that is what it needs, but that sounds kind of high to do the job to me.
I typically charge 600 to replace the track. So that plus whatever the track costs.
There's also a fix for the track can be rebuilt
This video is helpful !! working on a customer car with the same issue. There is a TSB on them. Awesome step by step instruction .
Yeah, the new TSB now said to replace the accordion-looking shields as well. I get them off without mangling them just fine, but I guess it's for others who just yank them off and damage them.
Thanks for walking me through it. Got it done but broke the trough arms. JB weld in process.
I have some if it doesn't work
Anybody know where I can find that Troth track part? It’s that piece in the video starting at 7:08 where he says don’t forget to do his. I need to replace that.
If you're talking about the plastic piece, it only comes with the entire track, unfortunately.
@@SealofPerfection would you know where I can purchase it?
@@marcorusso2705 there are several online places but the dealership is generally about as cheap for me. Your mileage may vary depending on your dealer.
Thanks for your time,keep up the good work. Will be trying this soon. Im subscribed hope to see more tip and tricks on f150. Great truck but bad sunroof engineers.
This helps to the tune of $700! My driver's side arm just broke on my 17 F-350....I wish I would have found out about the sunroof cleaning and lubrication maintenance before it broke, other wise I would have done it! My truck is 18 months old, but I have about 37k miles on her.
How easy is it to remove the broken-off plastic bits from the track? Can i do that without removing the rear glass panel or dropping the headliner? I have little pieces in my track now causing havoc.
Thanks again, this is just what I was looking for!!!
Glad it helps!
The broken pieces: Just depends on where they are. Usually they're up front and you can fish them out, but a couple of times I've had to take the rear glass loose and get to them in the back. You don't have to take it out. Just remove the front one (you'll have it out already anyway), go ahead and take the trough out (you had it loose anyway), then remove the Torx 25 bolts holding the rear glass in. (I think there are 3 on each side, might be 4). Then just slide the rear glass forward so you can see the rear of the track.
Thanks again! Have a great evening!
Thank you thank you thank you. I heard one of the plastic pieces break about a year or two ago and haven’t used my sunroof since in fear that I’ll never get it closed. I got the courage to use it today and sure enough my sunroof got stuck open and it started to rain 10 minutes later. Thankfully I was close to home. I got the arms from the dealership for about $130 and changed them quickly and easily myself.
I’d be interested in a video on the rear middle window. The pulley on the bottom driver side popped off and now my window slowly opens on its own and I have to manually push it shut daily. The cable is too tight to re-hook it. Not sure if I need to buy a whole new assembly or if there’s a easier way to loosen and reattach the cable ball into slot/pocket on the window.
Really appreciate the videos, they were really helpful. Completed this today in about an hour by myself. Thank you again.
Thanks. Very informative video. The quality of the vid is outstanding. Good job. I have an appointment to get mine repaired and of course I'm fully expecting the Dealer Shuffle.
Hopefully not. Of course, I'm a specialist subcontractor for dealers, so I do more of these than probably anyone, but these are very routine around here.
I guess YMMV if a random tech that has to work on everything get ahold of it.
Thank You!!! The fix went smooth with your help! The plastic was broken similar to the video. Wish my sunroof had less plastic... :/
Great Video, trying to fix my 2017 F-150, The sunroof will not stay closed unless I stop it with the button and it will not go into the vent postion, any tips?
Have you run the initialization procedure?
@@SealofPerfection Tried to, but the procedure will not run, tried several times
@@Annie-pr4mc Might be a bad motor then. The new ones are updated so you would have to replace both of them because the old ones will not program together with the new one
Very great video i bought the 2 rails but i noticed that the piece that was also broken was the one attached to the end of the chain looking thing is this common?
Thanks!
Not sure which piece you're talking about. If it's the long black piece that runs from side to side, that's the trough, or "drip tray" and they do break occasionally.
Pacfanweb gotcha I’ll see if i can find the name for the piece exactly little hard to explain haha thanks
How do you get to that stage? I have a 2017 F250 superduty with panoramic sunroof. How do I get the glass off to do what you did in the video?
Vent or tilt the sunroof, then take off the concertina shields (the accordion things) and there are 3 screws on each side holding the glass in. I have a video on that, too
Thanks for the video - I found both my arms need to be replaced. When looking at what happened I noticed that the Driver side and the Passenger side arms are not equal. The passenger side arm is about 5” back/behind the Driver side arm. I ran the Sunroof Initialization a few times but it did not line up the two arms - any suggestions? The point of reference I am measuring from is where the arm is attach to the track - the round head you push through the arm to attach the arm to the track.
Hi sir, thank you for the video. I am running into an issue though. In order to get my tracks to line up I had to run the sunroof system reset after I took the glass off. The tracks did line up during the reset process however now I cannot get the sunroof in the tilt position in order to get the new arms back on. When I hit the close button I hear the motor responding but no movement. When I hit the open or tilt button there is no sound or response at all. Any tips or advise you could give me would be much appreciated!
Is the motor running, or does it just kind of "bump" and try to move but can't?
@@SealofPerfection Yes, the motor runs when I hit the close button and continues to run until I release it. There is no response or noise when I hit the open or tilt button. I tried doing the reset cycle again and only the sun visor responses. It seems like it is not recognizing that is is in the closed position or the motor is no longer connected to the pulley mechanism.
@@chrismyers1413 So it's running steadily, but nothing is moving? That isn't good if that's the case.
@@SealofPerfection Yes sir, its running steadily. It seemed like the reset initially worked because it processed trough all of the motions and no weird noises as if something would have come loose. But after that no response when I push the buttons. I am getting the hint that the reset should only be done with the glass in place?
@@chrismyers1413 No, I've done the reset many times without the glass. If the motor is humming along and nothing is moving, then something else is broken, and everything else only comes with the entire track.
The lower guides...the part with the round piece that sticks through the hole on the arms....take a screwdriver and see if either one of them moves freely. They shouldn't.
Thank you for this video. Helped me do this myself! Thumbs up from Texas!!
Do you know what the part is called that the accordion blind attaches to? You slid it back and called it a trough guide…It also sits in the middle of the track and slides back and forth..That is also broken on my truck.
Unfortunately that is not available separately. You can only get that with the whole new track
Great video and extremely helpful. I was unable to get the sunroof to the vented position, but the ramps were so badly damaged I was still able to remove them. The new guides would not go on with the position the sunroof was in, so I tried to reset the the sunroof. It worked and the slide finally came forward enough that the round part would go through the hole. The problem is that I believe it came too far forward and will not longer slide back. When I try to push the close button, the motor makes a grinding sound. The vent and open button do nothing at all. Any recommendations?
Yikes. A grinding sound means the motor is moving but the cable is not, and the gear is jumping against the cable.
That means one of the cables is totally jammed and won't slide.
It usually means the track is toast and needs replacing.
To figure it out and possibly save it, you can drop the headliner in the rear, and loosen the sunroof motor. It's the one on the driver's side. There are two identical motors back there, and the passenger side one runs the shade.
So, the motors have 3 Torx 25 screws in them. Remove one, and loosen the other two so they are just barely in there, and you can drop the motor down to where the gear isn't contacting the cables anymore.
Remove the glass, and try to manually (I use a big screwdriver) move the guides. One will be stuck.
Then you need to find whatever is stopping it from moving. Should be a plastic piece from the old guides, most likely.
If you find it and remove it, then put the guides even with each other, tighten the motor back up, and you might get lucky.
If not, you'll need a new track, unfortunately.
Thanks for the quick reply! You're awesome. I was able to remove the motor today and both guides slide freely. I do not believe an obstruction is the issue. I tried all three cycles with the motor out and the motor only turns when I am pushing the close button. When vent or open are pushed, nothing happens. I am wondering if the issue now might be in the motor. I did notice some metal shavings around the gear. I think I am going to replace the motor regardless, but do you think the motor could be the problem that it will only go one direction?
If you want, you could swap the motor from the shade over there, program it and see if it works. They are identical. They always have shavings and material on them, though. And especially if it was grinding. That probably isn't the issue.
If the guides are moving freely when you do it manually, you probably cleared whatever was restricting them whether you knew you did it or not.
Absolute worst case scenario is, the cables are damaged. But that is very rare.
Try the shade motor and see if it moves the glass. Then put the glass motor to run the shade...it's much less load. Hopefully that'll do it.
Thank you, Pacfanweb! I apologize my response is delayed, but I was able to get it working. I pulled the shade motor out and hooked it up to the sunroof side. It would also only run when I pushed the close button, so I figured my sunroof motor was fine. I put it all back together and initialized and I have a working sunroof.
For anyone interested, I was able to find a way around it if you are unable to get the sunroof to the vented position. I can’t say I recommend it, but it worked for me. If it doesn't work, you'll be stuck replacing the whole track, but I didn't see any other option. My sunroof would not go from fully opened to closed. It would get stuck about a half inch from being up all of the way.
I followed Pacfanweb right up until 3:25 of the video. If you aren’t in the vented position this is where you will get stuck. You can see the round piece in the video is approximately ¾ of an inch from the hole. When you aren’t vented you are much further away. I was approximately 4 inches.
The piece of the guide that slides through the track (Pacfanweb’s finger is almost pointed at it at 1:25 of the video) is actually small piece of metal coated in a lot of plastic. I took a small flat screwdriver and started prying little pieces of the plastic off at the seam between the plastic and metal. I was able to break enough of it off that I could eventually pull the slide out of the track while the round piece was still in the guide. Once the slide was out, I could easily push the guide back far enough to pull the round piece through the circle. The other side worked out the same way. Make sure you clean out any plastic pieces from the track.
The next problem you’re stuck with is that the round parts are attached to the cable and they will not budge. You cannot slide them far enough forward to get the round part back through the hole of the new track. You need to drop the rear headliner and get to the motor. The one on the drive side is the sunroof motor. I dropped the motor which freed up the cable. Using the video, I eyeballed where the round parts should be on the track. I also measured to make sure both sides were lined up. Once lined up, put the motor back in so that it locks the round piece back in place. Then continue on from 4:25 in the video forward.
Great video! Hopefully I don't need it but I do have a related question. My 2018 F-150 moonroof opens to vent just fine but when I try to fully open the window it shutters lightly as it opens. It operates as advertised when closing. I don't see any broken parts and was wondering if there are any recommended lubrication points that would help resolve this issue.
Worked like a champ! The extended warranty people said the guides were "exterior" trim and not covered on my 2015 F-150 King Ranch ...I have one question: Is there a way to test the glass when you put it back in for leaks? Or do they all leak some into the sunroof pan? I have some water coming in at the rear glass/front glass right in the corner on both sides. It seems to drain fine but I was wondering if that is normal? Or if there is a way to make it fit tighter during reinstall of the glass
It's normal. That's what the trough and drains are for. All sunroofs pass water like this. You can have someone run water over it and try adjusting the glass up/down where they meet and you might find a point that it slows it down some, but it will never totally stop it. Even brand new ones on the lot do it.
Replaced both brackets with the ones from Sunroof Doctor. Ran the reprogramming without issues. After I tried to make sure all off the functions we working properly, the sunroof got stuck again. Snapped the bottom edge of one of the brackets below the channel for the sliding pin. I can send a pic. Thoughts?
send a pic to my username at gmail
I have the cable at the motor spins broke and one side of the guild that connects to the rail is broken. Do they make a after market part for that? Only part I can find it the whole frame assembly. Not sure if the assembly comes with the parts I need. Thank you
Thank you for showing us this, much appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻
What if the shuttles that ride the rails with the knob are not lined up anymore and in synch with each other from side to side? Right now I’ve got the passenger side plastic part replaced, however the drivers side shuttle is in a completely different location on the rails and I cannot reinstall the new plastic guide.
If the lower guide is not lined up with the other side, it'll never work until you manually line them up again.
To do so, you'll need to pull down the headliner in the rear and loosen/drop the sunroof motor down so the gear is disengaged from the cables.
It's the motor on the driver side (really kind of in the middle) and it's attached with 3 Torx #25 screws. Loosen them enough to disengage it.
Then with the glass out, you can manually (I use a big screwdriver) push the lower guides all the way forward until they are at the absolute max tilted position. That way, you'll know they're lined up instead of trying to eyeball them in the closed position.
Then tighten the motor back up, reinstall the glass and proceed with the initialization and you should be good.
Great video! What kind of grease do you recommend for the track? Also, what would you recommend for lubrication for the seal around the sunroof afterwards? Thank you very much!!
For the track itself, and the seal, 3M Silicone Paste works great. That's what I use, and it's great for many other things as well
@@SealofPerfection Thank you again. Excellent advice. Ford needs to take a few notes from you and their sunroofs. God bless!
Do you have video on adjusting sunroof. Track broke on my 2015 f150
Removed glass to get broken piece out and ordered new part
Sunroof is now lower with airleak
I don't, but I adjust this way:
Open it, then close it. (not vented, regular open)
Adjust the back to where the rubber is slightly higher than the rear glass.
Adjust the front to where the rubber is flush with the roof.
Note that sometimes they won't go that high, and in that case you just adjust it as far as it will go.
First let me say thank you for the video. I had a local garage tell me since this is so " Labor Intensive" (their words not mine) it would be $640.I will tackle this job soon...doesn't seem that labor intensive to me. Thanks again
I can do these in about 20 minutes. It's not remotely "labor intensive". It's intimidating to some that haven't tried it, but once you do it...if you're even remotely comfortable with tools, you'll be glad you did.
Probably the shop that quoted you either wanted to replace the entire track, or they simply didn't realize what was involved.
I just had a sunroof shop who said they do "dozens of these a week", and try to tell me it took hours, they had to take off the roof panel, and sides, etc... even after I told them I have a 2017 (older models do require this). Scammers.... I never mind paying for work, but they wanted 850 for what should take them 20 mins. Even at 1 hour of labor and parts, that's an insane markup. Gonna try this myself.
Is there any way to manually put on vent position? That middle button for the vent position is not moving the glass at all
Yes. See my video in the description about how to line up the lower guides. You can manually move the track that way
Just fixed mine, thank you soooo much! Let's see how long it lasts.
Keep that seal where the two glasses meet cleaned and lubed, that is the key to longevity.
This is such a money-saving video. Thank you for all the details and tips. BTW, don't be tempted by those cheap Amazon and Ebay arms. Don't do it. They won't align right. Buy from Sunroof Doctor or the stealership.
Yes I tried them once. That was enough. They are not good at all.
On one side of my sunroof, I am missing the black plastic piece that goes next to the tabs (the piece that is attached with the two small screws). Is this piece absolutely necessary for install? I can't find that piece by itself to purchase anywhere. Thank you.
@@KirkCesena email me your address and I will send you one
@@SealofPerfection Will do. You are awesome. Thanks!
@@SealofPerfection Email sent!
I am trying to replace my sunroof rails, but to do it, it has to be in the vented position. My problem is that button doesnt do anything. The only one that has any reaction is the forward button that Just shifts a little, but doesnt do anything. The rear button doesnt do any either which tells me the truck thinks the sunroof is back, but it is not. Is there anyway to manually vent it so I can get it apart and replace the rails?
Yes, I have a video linked in the description that you can use to do that
@@SealofPerfectionWould that be the initialization procedure and just stop once it vents? If not, which video is it? I think I watched them all now and havent seen a way to manually vent it.
@@stevek3270 no use the one where you can manually align the guides. Instead of aligning them you can just run them all the way to vent while the motor is dropped
saw a video of a guy that just removed the broken piece and it worked just fine. I can get mine to go back if I just push down on one side that sticks. should I still replace both, or see if a broken piece is holding it up and remove that piece. Also you said that it has to be reprogrammed. DO i have to bring it to Ford for that?
No, I have a video of how to program it, too.
I have removed the broken piece that was jamming the lower guide and then it worked...but once the arms start coming apart, they will keep coming apart, so you might as well replace them because they are going to fail again eventually.
Great video, fixed mine tonight. This video made it easy. Thank you
What do you do if the large pins that move forward and backward are not in the same position. Right pin is to far forward by 1 3/8" ?
This:
ruclips.net/video/uQqhIRTP1GY/видео.html
I've got a 2015 Ford Fusion with a cracked sunroof glass. Just wondering if the mechanisms are similar? Is there a guide for just replacing the glass?
I followed your instructions and completed the replacement of the guide arms. Thank you for the clear instructions. Unfortunately this didn't fix my issue. I found about a 1 inch plastic piece in the rail and couldn't find the culprit, I have no clue where that piece came from. During initialization the vent portion tries to adjust and attempts to move the glass with no success. I was reading that the plastic piece I found could be from the track and it might need to be replaced. Your thoughts?
If it's this piece, it's part of the lower cable guide, and requires a track to replace, unfortunately
cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150forum.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_2511_21edc2835f0d8d801357a4d8b099e98670412bee.jpg
@@SealofPerfection I found your post on F150 forum. I have the expensive repair! Really sucks! I have to find someone in NC that can fix this. Thanks for the help.
@@numbthumb5636 I am in NC
@@SealofPerfection @@SealofPerfection Really!? Do you fix these for a living? If your close can I set up an appointment. Is there anyway to PM on RUclips?
@@numbthumb5636 I do this for a living, yes. Raleigh area.
You'd still need to get the track, though. I do mostly dealership work, and they typically have the parts there.
My sunroof is currently stuck in the full open position. I followed another video on you tube and unplugged the motors thinking it would allow me to slide the glass forward to get in the close position then plug the motor back up to open to the vent position to fix. Well that didn’t work. The glass still is stuck. Any suggestions how to get it closed to even begin to repair?
That means some of the broken pieces are restricting the movement. Usually I just force it shut over top of the broken pieces and you just have to take your chances that it's not going to break the lower part of the track. You really don't have any other choice.
Back the glass up a little bit so you can get a running start and just push it really hard
But what causes these parts to break is it the lack of lubrication between the sunroof seal and the body of the truck or what ?
Is there any preventive maintenance ?
It's several things. One is, the parts were too weak and they have been redesigned and are stronger now.
Two, the glass "sticking" puts an enormous strain on the arms when you open them. You can lube the seal to stop this. I have a video on where to lube it.
Three, that area where the sunroof track "lives" between the headliner and the roof gets HOT. Very, very hot. It takes a toll on the plastic components over time.
Well, I was almost ready to make the 16hr drive to have you fix my truck. Had a body shop helping me to find the problem. We couldn't find any obstacles in the track. Was ready to give up and a second guy in the body shop took a look. Lo and behold he saw a plastic piece in rail! We removed and now it moves to vent position. Praise the Lord! A few questions... 1) I saw some green substance on screws that hold in the rear and front glass. I assume some type of thread lock. Do I need to use some loctite on threads? 2) do you have a torque spec for the small torx screws? 3) the new rails that I got from my local Ford dealer came with the plastic bag cut open and some type of black lubricant covering the whole new rails. Do they normally come lubed or had someone tried them and returned them? 4) Should I clean them off and put fresh lube on? What is the best to use? 5) last, any pointers on adjusting the front and rear glass when reinstalling?
Thank you for all your help!
They have recently started to come with the lube already on them. So I am using it instead of mine.
I still would put something on the track where it'll slide, though. Liquid Wrench Lithium with Cerflon is good. 3M Silicone Paste is also good, and it works as well for lubing the seal where the windows meet. I have a video for that, too. It's a MUST to do.
I don't bother with Loctite. I tighten them snugly with my electric drill. Don't crank them down ridiculously.
Adjustment: Make the front even/level with the roof. Same with the back glass.
Start the back of the front window slightly higher than level with the back window, because it usually drops a bit the first time or two after you open it. So I start it a millimeter or two high, and then it ends up right where you want it.
And again, be SURE to clean/lube that seal.
And then initialize it.
Wish I knew it had to be vented to do this up front cuz now the slide pins or whatever they're called on each side connected to the cable are not aligned with each other. Is there a way to get them even with each other again or is it screwed?
Need to drop the roof motor in the rear, then you can manually line them up.
And I'm pretty sure I say in the video it has to be vented. I don't know how you got them in there without it being vented.
My roof will not go in the tilt position to repair it, even with the glass out. Any suggestions?
Loosen the motor, drop it to disengage the gear from the cables, then move it by hand. Screwdriver is what I use typically.
@@SealofPerfection awesome, thank you
I truly appreciate you!!! I just bought a 2020 Lariat and it came with the dual moonroof. I've honestly opened it 1x, and frankly I'm inclined to never open it again, seeing the other posts/channels mentioning the failures...just in case it has an issue.
I'm hoping that the plastic has been replaced by metal in the 2020 year, but I'm pretty sure it hasn't, would you know if the track mechanisms are metal now? if so, it would help to ease my concerns, I think?
The actual track itself that everything mounts into has always been metal.
The lower guides, which can break sometimes, are a mixture of metal and plastic. You can guess which part breaks.
I replaced the sunroof arms no problem but my center drip channel wont stay in place it falls down and any help would be appreciated
So it won't stay up against the glass? Better look and see if the springs are still in place.
They are hooked to the plastic pieces that you bend and pull on the arm to get loose. If you forgot to put that part back in place, that'd do it
Just ordered the rails for my 2018 F150. My sunroof is stuck in the full open position. I saw a post on a Ford forum where you mentioned you can force it closed. Do you have any videos to post showing how to do this? Thank you!
I don't have one of me doing that, sorry. Basically you have the engine running and someone to hold the clothes button continuously, and then you grab the metal frame of the front glass and pull it as hard as you can forward while the glass is moving and you basically try to force it to overcome the broken pieces that are making it back up. Sometimes it takes a few tries and you do run the risk of breaking something else, but there's really no other way to do it because you cannot take the glass out while it's retracted.
@@SealofPerfection Took me about 8-10 tries but I finally was able to get it to close. And I found the broken piece of plastic in the track. Thanks for the awesome video and reply. Next up, replacing the rail!
Any idea what would cause the glass to not close as soon as it hits the wind deflector arm? I just replaced the upper guides and if I hold the deflector arm down just a bit then it will close
Did you re-initialize it after you replaced them? It needs to relearn
I re-initialized it and it works fine now. Think I might have missed a step from the video. Thanks for the help
Thanks for the video! 2015 f-150... replaced the ‘rails’ as you mention above. Still got the snap crackle and pop when I tried to open sunroof.
It looks like the small plastic part that lined up with rail busted on one side. Is there any else that can be replaced consumer friendly ? I don’t see any other parts that can be purchased. Is this a complete sunroof kit replacement issue?
You talking the plastic piece that you kind of "flex" out of the way to get to those small screws?
That only comes with the track.
How broken is it?
Into Several pieces, and the two metal pins that slide into the arms . Drivers side rail appears to have become disconnected/broken from the actual moving motor driven guide. Only engages in the most forward position? Not sure if it that makes sense.
Now even when the roof glass is put back on, it won’t pull up snug enough to seal tightly. Now my main concern is not even sunroof operating, just keeping the rain /leaks out.
I realize it’s super hard to diagnose through a description.
Thank you again, I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
@@mmcardwell If you're saying the lower guide that moves, the one that sticks up and has the round piece is loose?
That's bad. That means track replacement.
You can't get those part separately.
One thing you can try to get it to the "closed" position: Pull the headliner down in back.
Loosen the motor. 3 Torx #25's. Drop it down enough to disengage the gear.
Then you should be able to use a screwdriver or something to force the lower guide to the "closed" position, or hopefully close to it. Get them lined up and in sync with each other, anyway.
Then you tighten the motor and probably unplug it so nobody accidently opens it and you have to start over.
@@SealofPerfection thank you! Did that and at least got the roof glass back in. Do you just eyeball the glass/rubber seals when you align that front piece of roof glass, to match the back piece more or less?
And lastly, what’s the easiest way to ‘disconnect sunroof power but still allow for the sunshade to be used?
Fuse? Black tape over the 3 sunroof buttons ? :-P
Man, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Been a big help.
@@mmcardwell I usually just install the front one a hair higher than the rear, as they always settle back to about flush.
To get to the motor, you pull down the headliner in the rear, it's the motor on the driver side of the car. Make sure the shade is where you want it before you disconnect the motor, because once you disconnect the motor, neither will work
Thanks for the video. The most important part is to be sure and have it in the up position
So how would you remove the little slide with the round thing that vents the glass up and down? I normally remove the hole frame and set on a table, rivets from the back should be 3 on each side, pry apart because it will have glue and then slide everything out of the back! More labor intensive for sure as you have to unmount side air bags so wouldn't recommend this to anyone without experience. Just asking if its possible sliding it forward
You talking the lower part? You can't replace it. The parts aren't offered, except with the entire track.
They DO offer them for the 2014 and earlier trucks, but not for the 15 and newer.
Question if you can help at all please.
Got a 2015 f150 platinum I removed the glass and the tilt part was piped out of the groove
I got them popped on then removed the rails for replacement
Should the motor and everything still work without glass in or does it bypass
All mine will do now is make grinding noise from motor.
Thanks
Did you fish out the broken pieces?
And did you make sure the two lower guides, the part with the round piece, are still in sync (lined up) with each other?
@@SealofPerfection yes I did I unplugged the motor and plugged it back in and they started working properly again. Thanks
@@reidbowers_21 Ha, reboot like a computer. Makes sense.
Thank you! I'll be tackling this next weekend with the help of your video here. Much appreciated!
Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions
@@SealofPerfection It's in and works great. Your video was super helpful. Lubing up that back seal made a huge difference too. Seriously works better than new after the grease that you suggested in another video.
Did you purchase the replacement parts from a Ford dealer? I have the problem and have confirmed broken plastic in the rail/ramp/guides. Just need the parts to repair.
Yep, I am a water leak and sunroof repair specialist and I did the job for a local dealer here. Parts came from their own parts dept.
Roughly 150 for the parts, give or take.
@Yar Nunya Just saw this. Where does the water drain from? The door itself? The door drains on these models are ridiculously small and very prone to getting clogged up. I clean then out and enlarge them a bit, but there's only so much you can do...they are just a bad design and will always be susceptible to blockage.
Will the replacement for 2013 F150 be the same? Everything I saw on RUclips shows people taking their entire interior apart to replace the plastic brackets
No, that's a totally different track. 2015 and up are the same
Thanks for the video. I performed this repair on my 2016 Lariat yesterday. Everything was straight forward and went well. However, after using the roof several times throughout the day....It broke off a chunk of the plastic from the brand new guide while closing at the end of the day. What other part of the system would you recommend that I look at now? I'm thinking something has to be slightly bent or warped.
You 100% sure it's not a piece of plastic from the old broken ones? I've never seen one break that quickly. And you lubed the rear of the window seal as well?
I installed the new tracks but now i cannot get the horizontal plastic drip tray that meets in the center of both pieces of glass to stay up when the sunroof is closed. I can pull it back in place under the the clips on either side and it hold the plastic tray up i can open the sunroof and it hold up but when i close the sunroof the tray just hangs amd it rattles like hell any ideas?
If the drip tray is attached to both guide arms like it's supposed to be, then that would place it right on top of those "springs" that it sits on, that hold it tight against the glasses when closed.
Thank you! Funny, you plugged them and now this video is on Sunroof Doctor! If only I had lubed before I broke it!!
Maybe they should give me a discount since they're using my video, lol.
@@SealofPerfection They are using your video as a How To install... kinda cheap of them, especially if they aren't giving you some affiliate credit.
@@mcat823 I didn't even know until someone mentioned it here.
Question, my dealership has done this repair like 4 times .. now I've noticed a small gap onlh in the corners where the 2 sunroof glasses meet. Was told by my dealership that this is normal and there is a trough that collects any water that gets through and drains it under the truck. Well mine is flooding my vehicle. Any thoughts. Was told that you have to remove the dash and seats to remove the sunroof assy, could r hey have left something disconnected thats causing this to leak. Leak seems to be equal on both sides, but all electronics on passenger floor got soaked. Any help is greatly appreciated.
It IS normal, and there IS a trough...however, it can only collect so much before it gets overwhelmed.
And the drains have to be flowing perfectly to keep up.
If yours is a 15 or 16, there is an updated seal that fits tighter that will greatly slow the water down.
Catch is, it only comes on a new glass, which is pretty expensive, but it does work.
Could they have left something loose? Heck yeah...if they forgot to plug the drain hoses back in, that would definitely do it.
You don't have to remove the dash at all to do the sunroof. The book does say you have to remove the seats, though. I don't do it that way, but that's how the manual says to do it. But not the dash.
So mine is having the same issues, the arm is broken just like the one in the video, but the "round thing" is already in the end of the slot, almost ready to pop out and not connected at all to the cable underneath that moves the sunroof back and forth. is this normal or is that piece broken as well? in other words, how is that "round thing" attached to the cable that slides back and forth to activate Vent, Closed, and Open modes? does it pop on and off, or if its not connected do i have bigger problems?
You're saying the "round thing", which is the lower guide, moves freely? If so, that's bad news, it means you have to have the whole track assembly.
If it's just out of time or sync with the other side, no prob...you just drop the sunroof motor loose and line them up again.
@@SealofPerfection yea i looked at it closer after pulling the ramps out and both of them are disconnected/broken off from the cable. i cant find the piece that connected them on either side, my only hope i think is to carefully form a jb weld bond around the cable and guide without getting any in the track.
@@nateb26 Were you able to fix yours? Mine broke on the driver's side. I was hoping to somehow fix it without replacing the entire track assembly just because of a small plastic part.
Do you have any videos on replacing the
Track ? My eyelid broke that attaches the arm that moves up and down the track.