Axle seals shouldn’t be too bad. Doesn’t hurt to pull the wheels and hubs first so you can buy brake kit too if you need them. If your like me, you don’t want to be pulling those wheels and hubs off anymore than you have to when your a 1man shop. Good video. Thanks!
I had to look it up. “Polarizing your 12-volt generator is necessary for your generator to work in conjunction with the regulator. A generator, unlike an alternator, can run off both positive and negative current. A regulator always runs off positive current. As a result, if the generator is not polarized to a positive charge and positive current is sent into the terminals, the generator can be damaged as well as the other motors and switches on the same current.”
I'm in the same pickle with a 68 Ford 3000 tractor. Gen. light stays on and drives me crazy. Regulator looks new but I cleaned it anyway. The generator will spin but I have to help it to get started. I read to put a meter on it and if it reads 30 its good, if 5 its bad. I got a 4 but I don't trust my multimeter skills. What I was looking for on your video is if there is supposed to be a third wire going to the battery to do the charging or if that's something that happens through the battery cables? I didn't see one but I was only getting quick glimpses. My best guess it my gen. is bad even though it spins.
@@mjmcomputers Yeah, turns out the generator was bad. I converted to an alternator and it charges like a champ. No third wire going to the battery to do the charging like I've seen in some setups. What confused me is it would spin when hooked to power....which I was told means its good...but I had to help it get started...just enough to leave me skeptical.
@@mjmcomputers Yes, it works well. I ordered the cheapo kit off Ebay. I wish the tach cable I ordered was a couple inches longer (40") and it sets awfully close to the exhaust manifold. I might have to fabricate something into extra heat shielding. The wiring was very simple but the cheapness of the kit proved challenging. You're going to have to make a few things work. They welded a part of the bottom bracket on upside down so the alternator doesn't rotate unless you grind a corner. The spacer was too short so I had to cut a longer one. They give you a male and female spade connector you're supposed to put together but they're two different sizes so you're going to have to dig out your own. Its a good idea anyway because their connectors are so cheap and thin they fall apart. You're going to have to buy a longer fan belt. Other than that I'm pleased. The battery is charging well. The headlights work. The warning lights are out. That's saying something considering I don't know anything about wiring. A guy called Farmboy I believe has a video on the same kit. You can watch him cuss it as he does the install.
Happy Birthday, MJ, keep these video's coming very interesting presentations.
Thanks!
Axle seals shouldn’t be too bad. Doesn’t hurt to pull the wheels and hubs first so you can buy brake kit too if you need them. If your like me, you don’t want to be pulling those wheels and hubs off anymore than you have to when your a 1man shop. Good video. Thanks!
Good idea, thanks!
Hard to see from the video but looks like the drive belt is too loose. That will affect charging capability.
I would assume the flashing puts magnetism back in the magnet through the winding??
I had to look it up. “Polarizing your 12-volt generator is necessary for your generator to work in conjunction with the regulator. A generator, unlike an alternator, can run off both positive and negative current. A regulator always runs off positive current. As a result, if the generator is not polarized to a positive charge and positive current is sent into the terminals, the generator can be damaged as well as the other motors and switches on the same current.”
Nice job, man.
Thanks!
I'm in the same pickle with a 68 Ford 3000 tractor. Gen. light stays on and drives me crazy. Regulator looks new but I cleaned it anyway. The generator will spin but I have to help it to get started. I read to put a meter on it and if it reads 30 its good, if 5 its bad. I got a 4 but I don't trust my multimeter skills. What I was looking for on your video is if there is supposed to be a third wire going to the battery to do the charging or if that's something that happens through the battery cables? I didn't see one but I was only getting quick glimpses. My best guess it my gen. is bad even though it spins.
I don't think there are any other wires, mine just stopped working and I'm pretty sure the generator needs new brushes. Maybe your does as well?
@@mjmcomputers Yeah, turns out the generator was bad. I converted to an alternator and it charges like a champ. No third wire going to the battery to do the charging like I've seen in some setups. What confused me is it would spin when hooked to power....which I was told means its good...but I had to help it get started...just enough to leave me skeptical.
@@jeffreygleaves2931 did you get one of the conversion alternators with the tach drive? I've considered one of those.
@@mjmcomputers Yes, it works well. I ordered the cheapo kit off Ebay. I wish the tach cable I ordered was a couple inches longer (40") and it sets awfully close to the exhaust manifold. I might have to fabricate something into extra heat shielding. The wiring was very simple but the cheapness of the kit proved challenging. You're going to have to make a few things work. They welded a part of the bottom bracket on upside down so the alternator doesn't rotate unless you grind a corner. The spacer was too short so I had to cut a longer one. They give you a male and female spade connector you're supposed to put together but they're two different sizes so you're going to have to dig out your own. Its a good idea anyway because their connectors are so cheap and thin they fall apart. You're going to have to buy a longer fan belt. Other than that I'm pleased. The battery is charging well. The headlights work. The warning lights are out. That's saying something considering I don't know anything about wiring.
A guy called Farmboy I believe has a video on the same kit. You can watch him cuss it as he does the install.
I don't get it. With the old regulator you had 14.4V at the battery, right? That should be okay, so why a new regulator.
Voltage dropped off and didn’t charge.