Same issue on our ford 5000. When my father in law died, this was one of those lessons we never went over. Thank you very much for this, saves me a lot of time with the battery charger.
Dead battery and broken key switch replaced and would not charge. This voltage regulator polarization trick fixed it! Thanks. You saved me time and money and I learned something new.
i watched 3 video's on how to do this and this is the only one that made any sense to me. just got my new regulator in and that stupid red light finally shut off. thanks for making this video, i couldn't have done it without you.
Farmboy is spot on with his video! However, this method ONLY applies to Type "B" generators. Lucas is a type "B" and usually found in older Ford tractors. Many older tractors use Delco-Remy generators and these are Type "A" generators. Type "A" generators require a different "flashing" or "polarisation" method than shown in this video. Using the wrong method could damage your electrics! Also, the voltage regulators come in Type "A" or "B" flavors as well. They are not interchangeable! Be advised!!
Love all your videos Farm Boy! I look at the weather in the background in your videos and see that my brother in Roswell and friend in Hogansville are still enjoying the warm, sunny weather down there! We are now having morning temperatures up here in RI in the low 30's.
You are my new hero. I changed the battery in my IH 404 and soon as I started it the light kept blinking and eventually the battery wouldn't start the tractor. Thanks very much. Also I liked that you went right into it.
This video helped me fix the charging problem on my Massey Ferguson 50. Thanks a lot. I tried a different technique but that one did not work so figured I would give this a try. Like you, I had to jumper it twice to get it to work. The reason it was not charging was I recently replaced the battery in it.
Thanks very much for making this video, I have been having trouble charging on my ferguson fe35, turns out this was the fix I needed! Very pleased to have identified the issue.
And to think, I was about to buy a new regulator! I damn sure appreciate that little bit of info., I was getting really tired of charging the battery every time I wanted to use the little tractor.
Gonna try this trick on my ford 2000. Recently got it running again after a 32 year lay up, got no charge to the battery and light on the dash. Also got no lights or horn working. Thanks for the video.
Thank you Farmboy, I've had problems with my 55Ford, been restoring it and never had to deal with flashing a generator. Some idiot looking at the car, back when we thought we'd sell it, hooked up a 12 volt battery to it. The car's a 6v system so it fried out the regulator. Anyway, Im replacing it tomorrow and your video was a nice easy to understand guide to polarizing the generator, so thanks man. :)
I have been charging a battery on a Ford 4000 for 2 years since my father in law passed. I was about to replace the generator and voltage regulator, found this video and so far it’s fixed.
I like your video. I'm preparing to fire up my rebuilt 48 ford pickup for the first time this week and this helps a lot. I like how it didn't work the first time because that's the way things usually go! At least when I'm doing these jobs!
Thankyou from my heart .... have done numerous tests , new dynamo , new reg box , and GEN light did'nt go out ... checked all thwe wiring , and had given up ..... thanks to your video .... got it sorted !!!! BLESSINGS to YOU !!!
Bought a ‘64 Case 441 a few weeks ago and have been LOSING MY MIND trying to figure out why I can’t get this f@#%ing generator light to go out! A RUclips video from my man FarmBoy30117 and an old pice of copper wire and now my battery is charging and the generator light goes out! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
This is called polarizing the generator. You must do this because the generators magnetic field needs to be set for negative or positive ground. Don't do it and you could burn up your generator and ruin your battery. It is far easier to make a quick connection just for a second between the battery connection of the starter and the "A" terminal of the generator. Same connection electrically with no digging or fumbling. Just a quick tap is all you need. The generator should turn about 1/8 of an inch and you know it is done. Nice farm!
That is obviously a regulator for a generator that has an internally earthed field. For an externally earthed field in the generator momentarily short B and D terminals together. The earth for the externally earthed field is connected to the voltage vibrating contact in the regulator. Circuit to earth is completed via the earth tag on the regulator.
you are a life saver thank you for this video I have been trying to find out what is wrong with my case 220 1975 tractor it would not charge after I change the batter. A BIG THANK YOU
@@farmboy30117 Hey it worked! I'm sitting here with an ol timer right now, re-watched your video and he is yelling at me to tell you to get rid of the Lucas parts haha, says they caused him lots of problems.... Go Delco he says. Just making an ol man happy.
I used to fly airplanes for a living out of Greenville SC. We had an old DC 3 and we had to flash the field on those generators too. It was a little scary with all the sparking and such. Jim in Chile.
The reason cows have 3 stomachs is so they can get all the nutrients out of what they eat. Horses only have one stomach so they need a better quality hay.
looking for a hood for my 460 utility tractor and just watching videos and came across yours, i was just showing somebody how well my tractor starts and yes somehow left the key on and it's dead now ha, it was totally dead, all have to see if it's charging when i fire it up, if not i now know what to do thanks.
hey farmboy, first of all great video! that was really helpful. I'm helping my father-in-law work on his d14 Allis Chalmers tractor and the battery won't charge. it's a positive ground 12v generator. the ammeter shows discharge and a multimeter on the battery shows the same thing. I stuck a wire between the 2 points it showed me on the diagram for the voltage regulator but it still doesn't charge. I also checked the voltage between the 2 leads on the generator and it doesn't show anything. what do you think the problem is? is there another way for me to check and see if the generator is even working?
I wonder if you have any thoughts on my problem - which is: I have a little 1960 Jacobsen 8hp garden tractor that won't charge the battery. I've had the Delco 12v starter/generator rebuilt by shop that only works on electric motors. I've replaced all the wiring. I have a new ignition. I have a new voltage regulator that I put in today thinking/hoping that I had replaced the last item in the charging system. I saw your polarizing / re-flashing the Field video which I did with the old VR before I fried it. Do I have to do it to the new voltage regulator? Do you have any other advice if not? Thanks for your help!
Bob, I'm in no way an expert on alternators/generators, but I can tell you that (on our Ford 3000) when the battery is disconnected, I have to reflash the field to get it to charge. I'm not sure how it works on your garden tractor though.
Hey bo, I got a strange situation with my Ford 3000 diesel. It was cranking fine and then the battery went out on it. I replaced the battery cleaned all connections and now it wont turn over unless I jump the starter with a screw driver, I had the starter tested and it was hitting every time. Mine doesnt have the neutral safety switch hooked up. Any ideas?? Its driving me crazy
That might be true but when you get an old Ford running, man is she skookum! I've got a 550 backhoe from 77 and even with that small motor she has a lot of pull and she can still lift her self up with the hydraulics
Where can I get a electrical ignitition diagram, my tractor wont start, check my switch is working, my neutral switch is working, for here its supposed to go to the ignition coil and started. But started worn even click. Anyone have a electrical diagram to follow wire by wire the ignition please thank you
hey farmboy. I have a mf 35. my generator gets really hot when I turn off the tractor. I have to disconnect the battery. I've changed the generator still same problem. you reckon its the regulator? I've checked all the wiring. cheerrs
I would reckon that's the issue as long as everything is wired correctly. Sounds like the power is back-feeding into the generator. I suppose a diode or something is bad.
You said to touch the positive? It sure looked like there was a negative on top of the battery in your video , Also, my tractor is a positive ground, would that matter?
You touch the positive to the field terminal. I have no experience with positive grounds but I will assume the generator puts out positive power to the battery. Never seen one that put out negative power.
Same issue on our ford 5000. When my father in law died, this was one of those lessons we never went over. Thank you very much for this, saves me a lot of time with the battery charger.
I’ve saved many of my neighbors, and friends money doing this simple task. Thanks for sharing!
Dead battery and broken key switch replaced and would not charge. This voltage regulator polarization trick fixed it! Thanks. You saved me time and money and I learned something new.
i watched 3 video's on how to do this and this is the only one that made any sense to me.
just got my new regulator in and that stupid red light finally shut off. thanks for making this video, i couldn't have done it without you.
Glad it helped!
Farmboy is spot on with his video! However, this method ONLY applies to Type "B" generators. Lucas is a type "B" and usually found in older Ford tractors. Many older tractors use Delco-Remy generators and these are Type "A" generators. Type "A" generators require a different "flashing" or "polarisation" method than shown in this video. Using the wrong method could damage your electrics! Also, the voltage regulators come in Type "A" or "B" flavors as well. They are not interchangeable! Be advised!!
Love all your videos Farm Boy! I look at the weather in the background in your videos and see that my brother in Roswell and friend in Hogansville are still enjoying the warm, sunny weather down there! We are now having morning temperatures up here in RI in the low 30's.
Weather's been very nice for the past week. 40's in the mornings and 70's in the afternoon.
You are my new hero. I changed the battery in my IH 404 and soon as I started it the light kept blinking and eventually the battery wouldn't start the tractor. Thanks very much. Also I liked that you went right into it.
This video helped me fix the charging problem on my Massey Ferguson 50. Thanks a lot. I tried a different technique but that one did not work so figured I would give this a try. Like you, I had to jumper it twice to get it to work. The reason it was not charging was I recently replaced the battery in it.
Awesome, thanks for the feedback! Glad it helped!
Thanks very much for making this video, I have been having trouble charging on my ferguson fe35, turns out this was the fix I needed! Very pleased to have identified the issue.
Thanks, glad it helped!
And to think, I was about to buy a new regulator!
I damn sure appreciate that little bit of info., I was getting really tired of charging the battery every time I wanted to use the little tractor.
Gonna try this trick on my ford 2000. Recently got it running again after a 32 year lay up, got no charge to the battery and light on the dash. Also got no lights or horn working.
Thanks for the video.
Thank you Farmboy, I've had problems with my 55Ford, been restoring it and never had to deal with flashing a generator. Some idiot looking at the car, back when we thought we'd sell it, hooked up a 12 volt battery to it. The car's a 6v system so it fried out the regulator.
Anyway, Im replacing it tomorrow and your video was a nice easy to understand guide to polarizing the generator, so thanks man. :)
Ian Knau You're welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Just followed this advice and got my generator working again as it should. Thank you for this video!
Glad it helped John!
Thank you. I actually started melting new wiring because I hadn't done this. Everyday is learning
I have been charging a battery on a Ford 4000 for 2 years since my father in law passed. I was about to replace the generator and voltage regulator, found this video and so far it’s fixed.
I like your video. I'm preparing to fire up my rebuilt 48 ford pickup for the first time this week and this helps a lot. I like how it didn't work the first time because that's the way things usually go! At least when I'm doing these jobs!
Thanks Bill! It often goes that way for me too ;)
Thank you farmboy for making this video you have helped me a lot, l have a similar problem with my 1968 sears tractor.
Thanks for posting, worked for my 4000.
Great video a simple solution for a big problem. Thanks
I've just bought a Leyland,and the seller changed the battery before I picked it up ,, gonna try this gem of a trick,,soon as ,,
Thankyou from my heart .... have done numerous tests , new dynamo , new reg box , and GEN light did'nt go out ... checked all thwe wiring , and had given up ..... thanks to your video .... got it sorted !!!! BLESSINGS to YOU !!!
That's great! Thanks!
Bought a ‘64 Case 441 a few weeks ago and have been LOSING MY MIND trying to figure out why I can’t get this f@#%ing generator light to go out! A RUclips video from my man FarmBoy30117 and an old pice of copper wire and now my battery is charging and the generator light goes out! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Great video, worth a thousand words.
Just what i needed to see. Thanks man
Great video, you explained it well and has saved me a lot of work, thanks
You're welcome! Thanks!
I'm just finding this video, excellent, I'm having same problem
Thanks
This is called polarizing the generator. You must do this because the generators magnetic field needs to be set for negative or positive ground. Don't do it and you could burn up your generator and ruin your battery. It is far easier to make a quick connection just for a second between the battery connection of the starter and the "A" terminal of the generator. Same connection electrically with no digging or fumbling. Just a quick tap is all you need. The generator should turn about 1/8 of an inch and you know it is done. Nice farm!
That is obviously a regulator for a generator that has an internally earthed field. For an externally earthed field in the generator momentarily short B and D terminals together. The earth for the externally earthed field is connected to the voltage vibrating contact in the regulator. Circuit to earth is completed via the earth tag on the regulator.
Thankyou for your simple and great vidio.
Thanks much for that. Now I know what the problem may be and how to fix!
Appreciate you posting this. You're my new best friend.
Glad it helped!
Great video! This helped out a lot!
you are a life saver thank you for this video I have been trying to find out what is wrong with my case 220 1975 tractor it would not charge after I change the batter. A BIG THANK YOU
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped!
Just what I was looking for, thanks, God bless
Glad I could help
Many thanks! It works, much appreciated. You are the Master!
Thank you sir. Very helpful information
Thanks alot, now i finally got my 4000 to charge
Thank you sir you just save this old southern boy some money.
Thanks a lot ,that helped me many dollars
Thank you for the video, very helpful!
Thanks! I didn't expect this is probably my issue. I had no idea you had to polarize the regulator. Well good! I dislike chasing electrical problems.
Hope it helps!
@@farmboy30117 Hey it worked! I'm sitting here with an ol timer right now, re-watched your video and he is yelling at me to tell you to get rid of the Lucas parts haha, says they caused him lots of problems.... Go Delco he says. Just making an ol man happy.
@@mikebyrne2824 Awesome
I used to fly airplanes for a living out of Greenville SC. We had an old DC 3 and we had to flash the field on those generators too. It was a little scary with all the sparking and such. Jim in Chile.
Haha, I bet!
Thanks man, this helped me on my car 1950 Dodge, same problem 6volt system!
+Jared Caudill Cool, glad it helped! I appreciate the feedback!
+farmboy30117 actually it ended up being the VR itself, opened it up and had to clean the contacts points off
Well, at least you found the issue!
Thank You . Just what I needed to Know. :) I've got the same tractor Ford 3000.
+Cathy M Phillips You're welcome! Glad it helped!
Excellent! Thank you!
I'm going out to try right now!!
Thank you so much…👍🥂
You sound like the guy in the new true grit film. Thanks I'll give that a try.
Well thank you pardner! (in my best John Wayne voice)
That Lucas voltage regulator looks like the one on my 63 MGB.
I have run into it, cheers!
Thank you.
Thank you!!!
Like iamzid, I was just trying to figure out why that light wouldn't go off on my 3000. Now I have hope! Thanks!
Thanks Christian! Hope it solves your issue!
I , thankfully , got the big blue spark , when linking and flashing between the A and F terminals .... then success !
Thanks !
3 time this video saved my tractor
Thanks!
nice one ty for it
Do you think it might be the same fix for a ford lgt 165 ? Lawn and garden serie 16hp
( k341)
The reason cows have 3 stomachs is so they can get all the nutrients out of what they eat. Horses only have one stomach so they need a better quality hay.
Would this hold true for 1949 8n 6volt as well or no.
talking about the poor quality of the hay, my dad used to say well, "it beats a snowball."
Like I try telling my mother, if they aren't eating it they ain't hungry enough!
I'm looking for the terminals that go on the voltage regulator (on the bigger tabs) anyone got a clue on what size they're called?
looking for a hood for my 460 utility tractor and just watching videos and came across yours, i was just showing somebody how well my tractor starts and yes somehow left the key on and it's dead now ha, it was totally dead, all have to see if it's charging when i fire it up, if not i now know what to do thanks.
LOL, that's how it goes Joe.
on 8n's you flash it from battery to arm??
Dad has put alternators in all our Oliver crawlers. I think they are cheaper to replace.
More dependable too!
Hi nice to meet
wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it myself....I'm off to re-flash with hopes to bring life to my 54 pontiac!
Hope it works for you Bill!
get yourself a switch ! put a wire to both sides of your switch to the flash points, wont have to move the battery etc.
Good idea!
hey farmboy, first of all great video! that was really helpful. I'm helping my father-in-law work on his d14 Allis Chalmers tractor and the battery won't charge. it's a positive ground 12v generator. the ammeter shows discharge and a multimeter on the battery shows the same thing. I stuck a wire between the 2 points it showed me on the diagram for the voltage regulator but it still doesn't charge. I also checked the voltage between the 2 leads on the generator and it doesn't show anything. what do you think the problem is? is there another way for me to check and see if the generator is even working?
Thanks Eric! I'll have to admit I know nothing about positive grounded equipment. Sorry.
farmboy30117
No problem. Thanks again for the informative videos!
I wonder if you have any thoughts on my problem - which is: I have a little 1960 Jacobsen 8hp garden tractor that won't charge the battery. I've had the Delco 12v starter/generator rebuilt by shop that only works on electric motors. I've replaced all the wiring. I have a new ignition. I have a new voltage regulator that I put in today thinking/hoping that I had replaced the last item in the charging system. I saw your polarizing / re-flashing the Field video which I did with the old VR before I fried it. Do I have to do it to the new voltage regulator? Do you have any other advice if not? Thanks for your help!
Bob, I'm in no way an expert on alternators/generators, but I can tell you that (on our Ford 3000) when the battery is disconnected, I have to reflash the field to get it to charge. I'm not sure how it works on your garden tractor though.
Thank you for the input. I'll give it a try later today and let you know.
you may have to change the idot light it flashes the field on some alternators
What if you have a 6 volt positive ground ?
Should I try to flash it if I’m getting a crazy high voltage? Or should I just replace it
If you're getting voltage, it's flashed. Probably need a new regulator.
Hey bo, I got a strange situation with my Ford 3000 diesel. It was cranking fine and then the battery went out on it. I replaced the battery cleaned all connections and now it wont turn over unless I jump the starter with a screw driver, I had the starter tested and it was hitting every time. Mine doesnt have the neutral safety switch hooked up. Any ideas?? Its driving me crazy
I'd suspect the switch or the wire from the switch to the starter is broken.
You have to be a wizard in order to keep a Ford tractor running. John Deere is for people like me that no nothing about mechanics.
That might be true but when you get an old Ford running, man is she skookum! I've got a 550 backhoe from 77 and even with that small motor she has a lot of pull and she can still lift her self up with the hydraulics
Mine is charging now thanks. But I had the tractor running because this didn’t work with it shut off
Where can I get a electrical ignitition diagram, my tractor wont start, check my switch is working, my neutral switch is working, for here its supposed to go to the ignition coil and started. But started worn even click.
Anyone have a electrical diagram to follow wire by wire the ignition please thank you
There are 2 interlocks on the Ford 3000. The high/low range has to be in neutral and the PTO has to be off.
hey farmboy. I have a mf 35. my generator gets really hot when I turn off the tractor. I have to disconnect the battery. I've changed the generator still same problem. you reckon its the regulator? I've checked all the wiring. cheerrs
I would reckon that's the issue as long as everything is wired correctly. Sounds like the power is back-feeding into the generator. I suppose a diode or something is bad.
the points are burnt together in the regulator
What if it still doesnt spark? New voltage regulator?
I'd check to make sure all the power and ground wires to the regulator are good then call it.
You said to touch the positive? It sure looked like there was a negative on top of the battery in your video , Also, my tractor is a positive ground, would that matter?
You touch the positive to the field terminal. I have no experience with positive grounds but I will assume the generator puts out positive power to the battery. Never seen one that put out negative power.
@@farmboy30117 Thanks for reply,. This method did not turn out my light so ill be testing generator , possibly regulator bad.
So run the wire from the positive to B?
I mean positive to f
@@mikedarrow3809 Yes or jumper "B" to "F"
I tried on my 2000 and 3000 tractor and it didn’t work for either one.
That's too bad Monroe!
generators don't have diodes
You're correct, but there is an in-line diode to prevent current from back-feeding into the generator
Wht the hell! Why!???