How to Install ARP Extended Wheel Studs
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
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In this video, I install a set of ARP extended lug on my Honda Accord. My stock wheel studs are a mere 43mm’s in length, which is plenty if I just want to install a wheel on my hub. If you want to run anything else on there, such as a wheel spacers, or even some big brake kits where you will be running different thickness rotors, you will need to install extended wheel studs. The ARP extended studs are 78mm’s in length, which is 35mm’s larger than stock.
This means for my application, I can safely run up to a 35mm spacer without having to worry about having enough threads for my lug nuts.
I’ve included the products that I used in the video, in order of appearance. Feel free to check them out!!
ARP Extended Studs ▶︎ amzn.to/2nfI8T2
Lisle Wheel Stud Installer ▶︎ amzn.to/2nci0se
Ball Peen Hammers ▶︎ amzn.to/2nhU9ZF
Dewalt Impact Driver ▶︎ amzn.to/2nsKa4b
Wire Wheel for Impact Driver ▶︎ amzn.to/2nfAc4e
Dremel Rotary Tool Kit ▶︎ amzn.to/2mZF0ZI
Astro 12SL LED Rechargeable Inspection Light ▶︎ amzn.to/2mZT5qh
Open Ended Lug Nuts ▶︎ amzn.to/2nsMc4o
Open Ended Short Tuner Lugs ▶︎ amzn.to/2mVxpLJ
Open Ended Long Tuner Lugs ▶︎ amzn.to/2nsQ7OO
My Wheel Setup:
12mm 5x114.3 64.1mm Wheel Spacers ▶︎ amzn.to/2nfEPev
Enkei RPF1 18x9+35 Wheels ▶︎ amzn.to/2nfkoyl
Hankook RS3 Tires ▶︎ amzn.to/2nleEVH
If you have any questions, feel free to send me an email at milanmastracci@gmail.com. Thanks for watching!! :)
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Hey man, you got most of it right. It's worth mentioning that this is a great time to inspect the wheel bearing, seeing that yours was very easy to spin means yours could use replacing. Ignore the hammer comments, hammering a stud out will not damage a healthy wheel bearing.
One tip I can give you; It's fine to use washers, but using a big nut instead of washers will allow it to center a little easier. Also avoid impact tools because it's very harsh and can damage the lug nut. I use a breaker bar to bring studs in, just get them in far enough to reassemble the brakes and install the wheel, then with the wheel on the car, use a torque wrench to bring them all the way in.
Also make sure to re-torque after 50 miles, then once more a few days later for good measure.
😂bruh his wheel bearings are perfect. You want it to spin easily! If it’s dragging and requires some strength to turn the hub that’s when you replace it! Please don’t comment false information.
You do realize only 4 bolts hold the hub bearing assembly on.....
RedLineBandits that’s what I was thinking lol but ohh well more work I guess
That and he didn’t tell this wonderful crowd that you have to press out the front hubs in order to change out the stud. Weather it be stock ones or extended ones . ✌🏼
@@jeffreydeleon5630 yet he changed out the studs without pulling it out ...
@@ACommenterOnRUclips that’s what she said...
@@ACommenterOnRUclips Bro. You gave yourself the username "You Tube"? Come on...
Good job making this video. Good explanatory and visual instruction. Concise, clear, informative and technical. I'm not even an import guy, too.
Good job man… only comment that I didn’t see included is that your dust shield has 2-10 mm bolts. Try removing the bolts and moving the dust shield out and down, not removing it just allowing it to move so you don’t have to cut… ALSO, by moving the shield that might allow you to find a better location to install the lugs WITHOUT shaving the bracket .. try this before cutting and shaving.. thanks again!!
You could just remove the 4 bolts that hold the hub & bearing assembly on there... No need to cut up the shield
Good vid , I think you should have also told the size of the knurl and described what the knurl is and what vehicle you were working on as well as the thread per inch ( 1/2- 20 ? or metric size)
I don't know where you guys in the comments are about this, but judging from his accent, he's in Canada and if I were him, I'd add a light film of anti-seize on 1) the threads of the studs to ease in impacting to press in, 2) on the threads in general because CA, 3) and even on both sides of the spacers to help prevent seizing in general.
I live in Phoenix where corrosion isn't an issue and I still do this practice.
Those are really good looking wheels.
I had to remove the rear hub on my honda to install the studs. Thanks man and keep up the good work :)
You make such great videos!
Thanks man!! :)
clean and to the point vid...good job
Nice job making it simple and easy
Accord is real clean!
Loving the videos, Milan! Keep it up.
Thanks buddy!! :)
Finally, you're using quality parts.
15mm or larger come with studs built into the spacer
You're correcting him when he said 25mm? Yeah, I think you're right for the most part. That's how it's been in my experience as well.
Awesome video !!!
Could you just undo the 4 bolts around the wheel bearing to remove the dust shield off
I think proper way to do that without unbolt wheel hub and not cut the brake shield is to unbolt brake shield itself and move it in a way that plug new long studs will be possible.
Well explained. Another option is to just drill a hole in the dust shield where theres clearance from the hub.
He ended up having to notch the caliper bracket so drilling a hole in the dust shield would not have been the end. Maybe you missed that.
I have a 8th gen as well. I just replaced a rear stud recently, but for future reference, how do you do it for the front?
Thanks for the vids bro super helpful
You vs. the guy she tells you not to worry about
LOL
'A lot of extra meat'
Curtis Smith the bbc
Nice episode! I personally don't like those enkei's but hey, it's your car!
your link to the wheel studs direct me to your sparco seats
Fixed lol
Spacers with studs start at 15 mm in europe
Oh thats sweet!! Didn't know :)
When is the body kit coming then we can see more Mini videos!
Would it be even better to replace hub completely with a thicker one? Looks kinda thin
Thats all fine and dandy what about the front tho? Pretty sure you gotta remove wheel bearing
Doing it on the front is easy and anybody could work it out for themself. What i would like to see i how to do it on the front .
Thanks for the clip, we want to replace our long studs (alloy rims) and replace with short studs (steel rims) .
The wheel you are installing has no affect on the wheels you are putting on. The main reason for extended studs is so you can run a spacer while still having enough material on the lug nuts to safely secure the wheel.
Nice work.
Thanks Marco!!
Planning to buy a 6mm spacer in the back of 2014 Accord coupe , should I still need to change the studs
Do you consider that the lugnuts replacement is necessary for 12mm spacer on the accord?
Can I cut the studs for stock wheels and how would you to do it correctly?
Hi bro..nice video..Can I buy these stuff from you?. We dont have any ARP dealer here in Malaysia.
can you use your oem lug nuts after the install no problem???
big fan milan :) been watching since you were doing suspemsion on golf :)!
Thanks buddy!! #loyal
Great video!
What about the front hubs, usually those ones are so obstructive you have to grind off a side of the new lug to get it to slide through?
For my car, I need to press the wheel hub out. I will do a video on it. Other cars might be lucky enough to do the same process as what I outlined in this video.
milanmastracci Oh I see. I can't believe Automakers haven't found a way to change lugs without having to disassemble the hub. On my friends Element, We had to replace all 5 lugs on the front passenger side wheel. I grinder off the sides of each stud to slide them through. A little bit of a hack job but it worked?
What whas the tool that you used to torque the bold on top of the washers?
It is called an impact gun / impact driver. The yellow tool is an electric version which you can see here: amzn.to/2nsKa4b
I also have a pneumatic version that is a lot stronger: amzn.to/2n0qVeu
Thanks, that's nice of you answering people's questions. This is one of the reasons I like your RUclips channel 👍🏾
Hey...having the greatest issue trying to get some 72mm wheel studs if you or your viewers can suggest a supplier, I'd be glad.
It's got 1.5 treading and about 14mm diameter at the splined area.
Disculpa,
pero no le vei el caso de instalar brillos más lagos de lo normal,
Ademas de aumentar aun más, el peso en la transmision de las 4 ruedas
Lo correcto es instalar birlos
Del largo incluido el grosor del espaciador
If that was me installing it I would put some lock tight on the studs just in case but I love your videos keep it up bro..
On the backside of the studs?
Yeah on the back when you installed it
loctite is for threads, not for sliding motion so it wouldn't have helped
Yeah true but could of had something like Loctite made for the sliding bolt to be safe.
Looking forward to a fender rolling video.
Hey i live really close to you is there a way i can contact you about having my tire lettering painting white on my summer wheels. Might make for a good informatice video
Few questions. Do you have to run open end lug nuts? How hard is it to remove the front studs only? Can I use the closed spiked lugs I already have? And does the lug nut required differentiate from the studs you installed vs the shorter extended ones. These are going on a 2013 Accord V6 that I’m trying to run 19x9.5 +40 Avant Gardes on but they won’t clear my Acura RL brake calipers. So i was going to extend my front studs and slip on a 5 or 10mm spacer to clear caliper. Car is lowered on TEIN Flex Zs if that matters
I've been asking the same questions online for a pair of 19x10 +38 CV7's I'm going to be running on my 08 Coupe with RL calipers, keep getting told it matters more about spoke design and concavity, and all that more than just the offset and width itself.
Can I use those same bolts for heavier rims?
Stretching the new studs?
You should NEVER hammer on your hub. The bearings are not designed for this level of impact. There are tools designed for removing studs safely.
hey milan
what kind of impact driver you use?
you do realize that dust shield just bolts on right? lol
Negative of open lug nut is your stud is exposed to the elements
hey, i need some clarification as i followed your tutorial on the RL brake upgrade. all went well, except after switching to the nissan rotors, i discovered my aftermarket wheels dont clear the brakes. no biggie, i can run my stock 18s. but in order to install extended lugs and run my new wheels, i have to figure out what type of spacers to get for the front. is it any different than the rear 12mm spacers you have linked here? thanks in advance for your time.
What aftermarket wheels do you have that won't fit because of the rotors?
milanmastracci velgen vmb9, 20x10.5, the way the wheelface/spokes are dont clear the caliper. but that aside, the nissan rotors taking up most of the oem hub is the real issue as im not sure how to center the wheel with no hub for it to center around (with the right hub ring). i saw your 12mm spacer has a hub built in, whats your front setup? i want to order the right stuff before going back in and installing extended studs. thanks for your time
hi what to yours braking system that you from infinity n painted red
Could you DIY front one ?
Did you get the nissan????
Going tomorrow to take another look at it :)
Dose it wrk on Toyota verossa car ????
sent you 2 messages a few weeks ago about headlights for a truck....
Where?
And how about honda civic gen 10? Anyone knows if the hub is atached with 4 bolts? Or i have to bend the stud? :( or take the hub and replace bearing also? 😢
Good video. But there's only 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing...it took you longer to do all the banging and cutting then it would've just to take the 4 bolts out... lol but thx anyways 👌
Y not just buy wheels that fit? And your studs are not more beefy. Just longer.
Do those fit all Nissan?
thanks!
You don't need spacers if you get the correct offset
You are correct, only if the wheels you want aren't available in the desired offset / spec.
You can't hit the back of the stud with a hammer to get it through?
Not enough room
Need these ASAP, regular studs sucks azz break easily n have no strength.
That was a caliper not a micrometer
When installing new studs why can't u just remove the hub
If it is easily removable, you 100% can :) You will still need to remove the braking system to get access to it
That's a caliper not a micrometer
It seems like you're working harder to not work lmao.
this process is too traumatic just to fit these bolts, it would be the safest way to do wheel spacers but i would just get proper wheels
shared and liked your video
Thanks buddy!!
Bro you gotta clean that car. Stupid dirty lol.
Thought it said APR lol (then I was like, APR doesn't make Honda parts XD)
Noti squad
Your damaging the wheel bearings
If you're wheel bearing can't take a few wacks of a hammer on the studs, then your hub is already worn out and needs replacing. In fact his hub in the video could probably be replaced based on how easy it is to spin it.
@@sethglenn9022
WRONG. Wheel bearings are NOT designed for this type of impact. Do it right, or don’t do it at all, just being lazy.
It would have been just as easy to remove the hub and not butcher your car...
Waddup dude:D
Yo :)
:0 u replyed to me :D
Hella flush.
heyyyyy!!!
Hey hey
milanmastracci I always be watching your videos man great work! I have a question is it possible to put jeep srt8 calipers on a jeep grand Cherokee laredo? I seen on ur videos that u add spacers and other things but just want to make sure if I can
I don't see why not? Before you go ahead and buy the callipers, take a look at the spindles to see if they have the same mounting points / if they are the same part number. If they are, than you can guarantee they will be a direct bolt on
milanmastracci would I need to add spacers and anything else if u add those different calipers ?
milanmastracci
this is what I found online
Knuckle, Grand Cherokee; Left; w/SRT8 - 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee [5290649AB]
Our brand new Knuckle, Grand Cherokee; Left; w/SRT8 is a factory Jeep auto part for 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee and also suitable for these sub models: Laredo, Limited, Overland, SRT8. Purchase from the world's biggest OEM parts supplier on the web. Confidently purchase online - it's fast
So many things wrong with this. #1 Never hammer a stud out. There is a bearing in the hub and you risk damaging it by doing this. #2 The brake dust shield is removable with maybe 4 screws but that's not important because #3 Take the hub off, again it's held on with 4 screws. Use a press to remove and reinstall the new studs. #4 Never drive studs on with screws! You may stretch the stud and create a weird load on the stud from pulling the stud through instead of pushing it through from behind.
Orian Iglesias #1. Yeah you’re risking damaging the bearing. But as long as you know what you’re doing. That’s totally fine.
#2. Brake dust shield IS removable, but you need to take the knuckle off and press out the hub to do so. Which means, plus, you probably will need a new bearing.
Correct: #2. it’s a rear wheel, you don’t need knuckle off and press hub out. But you do need take the hub off by removing 4 bolts at back
I seriously doubt you're gona stretch an ARP stud by pulling it through. Your comment sounds good in theory but a bit dramatic, the only part I agree with is the hammering ruins the bearing. Having said that, you hammer the bearing harder to install it so I doubt a few soft taps fuck it up. Lastly, don't make the removal of the hub sound easy by saying it's just 4 screws, it is well and truly a cunt of a job.
Hammering definitely can ruin a wheel bearing. But stretching a stud would be if you’re not careful while driving the nut in. You’d have to make sure the stud is straight as you drive the nut in. Just to be on safe side you can slowly do this with rachet. Impact would increase the risk of damaging the stud but it can be done either way just gotta be careful
who liked the video before watching like me ? (:
rani kutbi noone
I did
yo
hey