milanmastracci, I just finished watching an older video on cleaning rubber floor mats. WHAT I NEED TO KNOW IS ... How to clean mold off of rubber floor mats permanently. Can you create a video on this? Thank you.
This was super clear and useful without a lot of nonsense or fluff. Thank you very much for sharing. I believe I can now make informed decisions on how to proceed with my big brake, suspension and wheel upgrades.
What a wonderful video, no lies, nothing but great and accurate information. None of this "This is your Boy" BS, No stupid music that last and last, no of this was brought by this company and that company. I hope you get all the view you deserve! Triple
interesting analysis on slip on and bolt on spacers. You actually made me hit pause on my decisions as I now have to revisit and reevaluate which of the two is most efficient option for my F150 STX. Spacers seem to be the easier and cheaper option than offset rims for an older model truck. Not really feeling put $3K work of rims and tires on 12 year old truck
Thanks for the great info! I recently bought a car and the owner had put 4x4.0” wheels on a car that is 4x100. At high speeds it would shake badly. I just ordered new wheels and an adapter. It’s difficult to find 12” 4x100 wheels!
Excellent video, thanks. Just another point to remember is to use the same design of the OEM bolt head when fitting the aftermarket extended bolts, ie don’t mix radius with tapered.
I believe youre talented, your good reasoning and rationales. One thing about your “cheap spacers.” Just because one is less expensive and cheaper, it does not mean it sucks. There are cheap alloy spacers that undergone T-6 Treatment.......makes them stronger.
Yeah, the ones on Bonoss's website are listed at $100-300 dollars for just two of them. I have a Saturn SL2 DOHC, with lots of modification that has H&R sort springs , GYB GR2 struts and a polyurethane master bushing kit including both dogbone engine mounts and i'm wanting to push my rear wheels out at least an inch so the rear wheels are flush with the fenders like the front ones are. I have the stock sawbade wheels and plan to keep them and get them powder coated back to the new aluminum alloy finish like it was from the factory to cosmetically make the car look better, without spending thousands one wheels and tires. I eventually want to get Enkei RPF1 15X7's though to lose about 4 Lbs of rotating mass or unsprung weight down the road and do the Subaru WRX racetech coilover mod that several people have done with the Saturn because the aftermarket industry never supported these cars and were Saturn racist, even though they were a rocketship at 2290 LBS (mine with the Seibon carbon fiber hood and no spare tire, don't ask, I lost it somehow...lol).
Dude - I really enjoy the videos you make. They are very well filmed and also extremely informative. Keep doing them please! My question to you when you get around to it ... debunk the WD40 headlight fix miracle I am seeing all over youtube. Does WD40 clear out yellowed headlights?
Adding spacers can accelerate your wheel bearing wear, so keep that in mind. By increasing the offset of the wheel, you place more stress on the axle's studs, and in a front axle application on the unit bearings (or spindles) and ball joints of the axle. You also increase the tire scrub radius, changing the way the vehicle handles and increasing the difficulty of slow-speed turning.
My wheels fix in with bolts. When I mount bolt on spaces the bolt head slightly interferes with the wheel mounting pad on aftermarket wheels. Stock wheel sit flush on it cause they have plenty of space in between the mounting pad pattern. Lucky the aftermarket wheels didn't need the spacer as much as the stock ones did.
Great video. I lowered my 2019 Mazda3 and decided to go with the slip on spacers and extended studs for simplicity and safety. Yes installing extended studs cost me an hour and a half of my life that I’ll never get back, but something about bolt on spacers always freak me out.
@@charlieboy3321 They were perfect for 3 years. Definitely worth the extra effort of replacing the studs. And honestly the studs are very simple to replace (you might have to remove the rear wheel hubs in order to get the clearance to install the extended studs though). I only did 12mm (.5 in) spacers and an inch drop in ride height all around so it looked clean and not too over the top. I would 100% do it. Quick tidbit, I sold the Mazda and bought a 2014 BMW 328d Sports Wagon (yay) but before I sold the Mazda I brought everything back to stock and it converts right back with no issues. If your car requires you to remove the rear hub to install the extended studs, don’t forget to use anti-seize on the hub bolts when you reinstall them. I had quite the battle taking those bolts out after 3 years 😂
First off want to say what a great informative video that cleared up my confusion on adapters vs spacers .Personally I only need a 12 mm(1/2”) spacer to clear my new calipers .. my question is concerning my ride quality and handling going forward… with a updated wheel alignment would I see changes / issues with cornering and handling performance … thanks
I am a welder by trade. An aluminum chunk on the back of a hot peice of steel, [aka brake router and spacer] will absorb the heat from the steel and spread it across the aluminum. It makes a great heat sink on stainless steel to prevent overheating the material. That groove would increase airflow and add cooling. It makes total sense to me. I would say at the center of the rotor, though, it would have less of and effect because with steel, heat tends to concentrate in the area heated. So that is also something to consider....
My cars has been tracked for 5+ years with bolt on billet aluminum spacers with 0 issues lol. Of course you're preaching what people should do with 0 track experience.
The thicker the spacers, the more wear your wheel bearings will have. Yes, you can get away with it for awhile, but that growling noise will tell you that the bearings need to be changed.
Would u have to do an alignment after installing spacers? I've heard it wears the tires faster, and puts extra load on the suspension and makes the car hard to steer? Thoughts
You don't need to do an alignment afterwards. It doesn't put more wear on the tires, it does slightly put more load on the suspension, and over so slightly does cause the steering to be a bit harder, however it would be no different than putting aftermarket wheels and tires on the car. I wouldn't worry in the slightest given what I mentioned. I would buy spacers again 👍
Quick question here: Is it a problem if the total surface diameter of the spacer is smaller than the central diameter of the hub and wheel, even though the other characteristics match perfectly?
Have you ever heard of a mechanic putting loctite on your lug nuts? If you torque them to spec, there is no need what so ever. I've been using slip-on and bolt-on spacers for years with ZERO failures.
Awesome video , how do you feel about retorquing the spacer because everytime I get tires put on at a dealership they always recommend coming in for retouque
Just put 1.5 inch wheel spacers on my Nissan frontier and they rub the inner fender when turning sharp with only stock wheels and tires. Now I have to fix that.
What about the added stress on Bearing components? The larger the offset not compensated for in the original design the more stress you will put on your bearings, if you now go and put bigger wheels on or add weight to the rotating mass it would be even worse??
The difference in running a spacer, will be like the difference between carrying an extra person in your car or not. It will theoretically create more stress, but it isn't harmful enough to cause excessive wear.
Good video. However, a couple of points. The PCD isn't the outside diameter of the studs, it runs through the centre of the studs. You say both :-) Not sure how having a groove on the mating surface improves grip by reducing the contact area. An explanation would be helpful.
Great tutorial! Usually, after you torque the wheels you are required to re-torque them after driving them for 15-25 miles. Is there a need to re-torque the bolt-on spacers the same way? If so, that would entail removing the wheel and then having to re-torque the wheel after the spacer re-torque.
@@milanmastracci Yeah, I've read actually a day or two ago that if use spacers that your spring rate, although, technically stays the same, the spring rate to the wheels get reduced, I.E. say like if in the rear, your springs get softer in the rear, and also u increase wear on your wheel bearings, even though your looks improve on the car.
Depends on your goals. If you're looking to clear large brakes that you've just installed, you would have to measure to determine what the minimum thickness is, however if you're simply looking to have better wheel fitment and move the wheel outward, it depends on how flush you like it. Hope that helps!
Why do they come in pairs of two? I have a mini cooper and decided I want 15mm spacers but do I have to get them in different sizes for front and back?
I’m thinking of ordering a set of 5mm hubcentric spacers, but it doesn’t have a lip to complement the larger bore of an aftermarket wheel. Would you suggest using the spacer and adding on hubcentric rings as well?
I have them on my challenger and I have had wheel spacers on many many vehicles and they don’t really hurt anything if they aren’t more than 1.5 inches maybe 2 at the most
Love the video only thing confusing me is the twork concept? How many turns you have to do on each nuds.. Also you have to trim the studs on the bolt on spacer to the exact length of the studs on the car?
Great stuff man!!! Best explanation by far! What would you recommend for an 04 GX 470. Not lifted, No off roading. Just going for an more aggressive stance with a wider foot print. Thanks
I just need something to put space between the brakes on my Challenger to be able to use a steel wheel Spare wheel I put together. The car has 20" mags...I made up a spare the same ride height from a 17" rim and a 245 / 65/ 17 tire but- when I put it on it rubs something...Can I use a slip on spacer? Glad I saw this video cause I almost bought the one with studs...I don't need it.
I shoupd have watched this before I putchased my wheel spacers from Premier Auto Acc/ebay. The are 25mm hub centric 6061 T6 aluminum, but now am nervous to put them on.
Great video!! Very informative! Clarification so I understand correctly.. so if I just need 8mm spacers I would need extended studs? I’ve seen other videos where they just slip-on the spacers less than 10mm.
All comes down to how many threads you have with the stock studs. Once the stud is broken loose, count the number of turns and multiply the pitch ((1.25 or 1.5). Then minus the 8 mm and see if you have enough threads left
Can I rely solely on Bonoss giving me the correct parts for the job? Like: I preferred 15mm front and 25mm rear from Bonoss for a Genesis GV70. They all are bolt on and is it ok to use a dab of never seize on the hub? And use blue loctite on the bolts of the spacer after it’s TQ to 84ft lbs? Then put the wheel in and TQ to the manuals spec? Or skip the loctite and drive it for 100miles and take the wheels off and check TQ of the spacers since it a new mating ? Someone mentioned to buy new rim lug nuts as it’ll look ugly now but not sure why if using stock hardware?
@milanmastracci is it possible to stack spacers, and is it safe? I'm trying to achieve a -10 offset. I currently have a +55 offset and I was only able to get a hold of a 60mm wheel spacer which would put me at -5mm offset. I came across a 5mm spacer and was wondering if its possible to stack the two spacers together to achieve a -10 wheel offset. Thanks for any input.
One thing you didn't mention - wheel spacers can also be used to convert to different wheels. For example, my Jeep has factory 5x4.5" spacing. The spacers allowed for newer 5x5" spaced wheels.
I got an mx5 Nd. I 'd like ti mount spacers like the blackones. The question is: they should be all the same measures? I would like 15mm for the front and 20mm for the rear. Helppp
if i want to run a 13mm slip on style spacer do i have to change my bolts? will my stock hub bolts be long enough to use? really don't want to mess around with my stock parts if i don't need to.
As much as needed, as little as necessary. Ideally you'll want to go to a max of 1.5", as the larger the spacer, the more stress it puts on your factory studs. For most applications, 1" is usually more than enough.
Great video! This is information. I ha e a question. I saw that they had 2 different model numbers for the g37 coupes. BONOSS Forged AL7075-T6 Active Cooling 5×114.3 Hubcentric Wheel Spacers for Infiniti G37, BONOSS Forged AL6061-T6 Active Cooling Hubcentric 5×114.3 Wheel Spacers for Infiniti G37 I'm trying to figure out which one to get. Thank you.
I have two German cars, my wife's is a 2001 2ltr W203 and I have used the same process and brand, except that they are wheel lugs. For this one I would like to know if I can fit an adapter type spacer from the Mercedes fitment to bring it out to 114.3 bolt pattern? I have heard of the 120pcd to 114.3pcd and also the other way around but with lug bolts I am not sure? The other car is a BMW X5 and to be honest I am not in love with lug bolts at all, it runs staggered wheels 10" rears and 9" fronts and I would really like to make them fill out the wheel well just that bit nicer. It is a 2006 E53d, standard BMW rims and the only other thing I might consider is to fit 10" on the front and then fill them out or just change to wheel studs. What is your thoughts on this? Thank you for a very excellent lesson on wheel spacers. Well done!
What you said may be true for vehicles from Japan and Asia but cars from Europe are different VW/Audi for instance he wheel hub might have a chamfer at the base of the hub and the corresponding spacer must have a chamfer on it's mating surface so the spacer sits flush sometimes this poses a problem because those type of spacers have a chamfer on the wheel side too and IF your aftermarket wheels don't have a deep enough chamfer the wheel won't sit flush to the spacer...research this before going out and buying any spacer, most "tuner shops" will not take back spacers if they've just been "test fitted". Another thing the smaller (thinner) slip on spacers are not hub AND wheel centric they are only hub centric so if you use those use proper torquing procedures there comes a point of no return IMO when using the thin ones is it worth it?
Recently bought a 2002 mk4 that had 20 mm spacers on the rear and 12 mm in front. All these spacers have 10 holes but only 5 are used. I do not know anything about spacers but these look exactly like the bolt on you show here. But! Mine are not bolted on but used as spacers using only the lug bolts to hold the rim. ..question; is this safe? And , would it cause a vibration? I have vibration at 40 mph.. What should I do? Buy the spacers that do not bolt on to the bearing hub? Thanks..
Can I get a like for the dirt on my face? 🐛
hello adam lz! oh wait youre milmast 🤣
Dude it's to long of a video. U can do the same and get more views with a 7 min video
milanmastracci,
I just finished watching an older video on cleaning rubber floor mats. WHAT I NEED TO KNOW IS ... How to clean mold off of rubber floor mats permanently. Can you create a video on this? Thank you.
This will work if the idiots at bonoss would answer their email about buying this product .....
I have 6 girl friends. Ok. And they cook
This is a SOLID video. Really well put together and thoroughly explained. Thanks for sharing this great content.
This was super clear and useful without a lot of nonsense or fluff. Thank you very much for sharing. I believe I can now make informed decisions on how to proceed with my big brake, suspension and wheel upgrades.
My guy here does an incredible job explaining everything in detail about what you need to know about spacers.
This is perhaps the most comprehensive video I’ve seen on spacers.
Dude that had to of been the best instruction video I have seen I really found it very professional clear and thorough keep em coming
What a wonderful video, no lies, nothing but great and accurate information. None of this "This is your Boy" BS, No stupid music that last and last, no of this was brought by this company and that company. I hope you get all the view you deserve! Triple
Really digging your content and realizing your from Ontario makes it even better.. good shit bro! Keep it up!
interesting analysis on slip on and bolt on spacers. You actually made me hit pause on my decisions as I now have to revisit and reevaluate which of the two is most efficient option for my F150 STX. Spacers seem to be the easier and cheaper option than offset rims for an older model truck. Not really feeling put $3K work of rims and tires on 12 year old truck
I'm going to send my spacers with studs back now and buy longer studs seems that's the proper way till I buy new wheels
Your the greatest man!! Detailed and informative 👌
I appreciate that! Thank you! 👊
Thanks for the great info! I recently bought a car and the owner had put 4x4.0” wheels on a car that is 4x100. At high speeds it would shake badly. I just ordered new wheels and an adapter. It’s difficult to find 12” 4x100 wheels!
Without any doubt the best video I’ve seen on wheel spacers. I know now what I need and how to install them. Thank you for your time.
Glad to help! Cheers Andy
Excellent video, thanks. Just another point to remember is to use the same design of the OEM bolt head when fitting the aftermarket extended bolts, ie don’t mix radius with tapered.
I believe youre talented, your good reasoning and rationales. One thing about your “cheap spacers.”
Just because one is less expensive and cheaper, it does not mean it sucks.
There are cheap alloy spacers that undergone T-6 Treatment.......makes them stronger.
Yeah, the ones on Bonoss's website are listed at $100-300 dollars for just two of them. I have a Saturn SL2 DOHC, with lots of modification that has H&R sort springs , GYB GR2 struts and a polyurethane master bushing kit including both dogbone engine mounts and i'm wanting to push my rear wheels out at least an inch so the rear wheels are flush with the fenders like the front ones are. I have the stock sawbade wheels and plan to keep them and get them powder coated back to the new aluminum alloy finish like it was from the factory to cosmetically make the car look better, without spending thousands one wheels and tires. I eventually want to get Enkei RPF1 15X7's though to lose about 4 Lbs of rotating mass or unsprung weight down the road and do the Subaru WRX racetech coilover mod that several people have done with the Saturn because the aftermarket industry never supported these cars and were Saturn racist, even though they were a rocketship at 2290 LBS (mine with the Seibon carbon fiber hood and no spare tire, don't ask, I lost it somehow...lol).
Was just about to search this video topic. Browsing RUclips and the algorithm read my mind.
Dude - I really enjoy the videos you make. They are very well filmed and also extremely informative. Keep doing them please! My question to you when you get around to it ... debunk the WD40 headlight fix miracle I am seeing all over youtube. Does WD40 clear out yellowed headlights?
Adding spacers can accelerate your wheel bearing wear, so keep that in mind. By increasing the offset of the wheel, you place more stress on the axle's studs, and in a front axle application on the unit bearings (or spindles) and ball joints of the axle. You also increase the tire scrub radius, changing the way the vehicle handles and increasing the difficulty of slow-speed turning.
One of the BEST video ever, very professional, informative and good quality of audio and video :) Rock guyz
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words ☺️
are you also considering the disk size on three-piece work wheels for example when trying to find out the size of extended studs?
100% solid video, answered all my questions. Appreciate the hard work and info!
Glad to help!
First video I see on the channel and its awesome. Very well explained!!!
My wheels fix in with bolts. When I mount bolt on spaces the bolt head slightly interferes with the wheel mounting pad on aftermarket wheels. Stock wheel sit flush on it cause they have plenty of space in between the mounting pad pattern. Lucky the aftermarket wheels didn't need the spacer as much as the stock ones did.
Great video. I lowered my 2019 Mazda3 and decided to go with the slip on spacers and extended studs for simplicity and safety. Yes installing extended studs cost me an hour and a half of my life that I’ll never get back, but something about bolt on spacers always freak me out.
Have you had any issues with them so far? I plan on putting some on my 2015 Mazda 6
@@charlieboy3321 They were perfect for 3 years. Definitely worth the extra effort of replacing the studs. And honestly the studs are very simple to replace (you might have to remove the rear wheel hubs in order to get the clearance to install the extended studs though). I only did 12mm (.5 in) spacers and an inch drop in ride height all around so it looked clean and not too over the top. I would 100% do it.
Quick tidbit, I sold the Mazda and bought a 2014 BMW 328d Sports Wagon (yay) but before I sold the Mazda I brought everything back to stock and it converts right back with no issues. If your car requires you to remove the rear hub to install the extended studs, don’t forget to use anti-seize on the hub bolts when you reinstall them. I had quite the battle taking those bolts out after 3 years 😂
First off want to say what a great informative video that cleared up my confusion on adapters vs spacers .Personally I only need a 12 mm(1/2”) spacer to clear my new calipers .. my question is concerning my ride quality and handling going forward… with a updated wheel alignment would I see changes / issues with cornering and handling performance … thanks
I loved your last video about putting wheel spacers on your Nissan! Now I can learn even more! Keep up the fantastic vids!!👍
Happy to hear that Ziggy!! Thank you 🙌
Great review; professional and thorough. Thank you very much!
yes bro
delivered as promised! I wanted to know and you provided, thanks. I have an RX350 Lexus that I am looking for spacers specifically for the rear
Fantastic video…really well explained, good level of technical detail but skilful presented, so still easy to understand. Well done!!
👏👏👏
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great info. Thank you! NO BS. Just info! Great Job!
Don’t know how I’m just finding your channel, this video was legit
Dude awesome content and very well explained you covered everything great I’m happy to say I’m confident in doing this soon thanks a million
Haven’t watched your videos in a while. But the mustache is looking good👍👍👍
I am a welder by trade. An aluminum chunk on the back of a hot peice of steel, [aka brake router and spacer] will absorb the heat from the steel and spread it across the aluminum. It makes a great heat sink on stainless steel to prevent overheating the material. That groove would increase airflow and add cooling. It makes total sense to me. I would say at the center of the rotor, though, it would have less of and effect because with steel, heat tends to concentrate in the area heated. So that is also something to consider....
My cars has been tracked for 5+ years with bolt on billet aluminum spacers with 0 issues lol. Of course you're preaching what people should do with 0 track experience.
The thicker the spacers, the more wear your wheel bearings will have. Yes, you can get away with it for awhile, but that growling noise will tell you that the bearings need to be changed.
Great presentation. Research scrub radius and the effect of too much offset on scrub and wheel bearings.
Would u have to do an alignment after installing spacers? I've heard it wears the tires faster, and puts extra load on the suspension and makes the car hard to steer? Thoughts
You don't need to do an alignment afterwards. It doesn't put more wear on the tires, it does slightly put more load on the suspension, and over so slightly does cause the steering to be a bit harder, however it would be no different than putting aftermarket wheels and tires on the car. I wouldn't worry in the slightest given what I mentioned. I would buy spacers again 👍
@@milanmastracci ohh awesome thanks
What brand are the bolt on spacers you showed on the video?
Sorry if im repeating the question
Quick question here: Is it a problem if the total surface diameter of the spacer is smaller than the central diameter of the hub and wheel, even though the other characteristics match perfectly?
I’m putting spacers on my Jeep and was wondering why you didn’t use locktite on the threads? Everyone is telling me to use it.
Have you ever heard of a mechanic putting loctite on your lug nuts?
If you torque them to spec, there is no need what so ever. I've been using slip-on and bolt-on spacers for years with ZERO failures.
Thank you, learned so much!! I’ll keep you updated to what I do!
Adding a 1/2 spacer, with out the hub centric is ok? In the old days, most wheels were loose until you tightened the lug bolts carefully.
Awesome video , how do you feel about retorquing the spacer because everytime I get tires put on at a dealership they always recommend coming in for retouque
For a minute you looked like Adam LZ 😆
Lol facts
@@dreyusalexander718 😆
Frrrr
most informative car channel i have come across thankyou
Loved this video. Solid content and engaging presenting style.
this helped me alot. Will absolutely be buying the BONOSS bolt ons. Thanks for the review and info.
Just put 1.5 inch wheel spacers on my Nissan frontier and they rub the inner fender when turning sharp with only stock wheels and tires. Now I have to fix that.
Follow the spacer manufactures torque specs for your spacer. They may be different then your factory torque specs.
Homie, your video was super informative and helpful for what I’m trying to do on my daily driver 2012 civic. Thanks man 👍
Glad it helped Victor! 👊
What about the added stress on Bearing components? The larger the offset not compensated for in the original design the more stress you will put on your bearings, if you now go and put bigger wheels on or add weight to the rotating mass it would be even worse??
The difference in running a spacer, will be like the difference between carrying an extra person in your car or not. It will theoretically create more stress, but it isn't harmful enough to cause excessive wear.
Good video. However, a couple of points. The PCD isn't the outside diameter of the studs, it runs through the centre of the studs. You say both :-) Not sure how having a groove on the mating surface improves grip by reducing the contact area. An explanation would be helpful.
Great tutorial! Usually, after you torque the wheels you are required to re-torque them after driving them for 15-25 miles. Is there a need to re-torque the bolt-on spacers the same way? If so, that would entail removing the wheel and then having to re-torque the wheel after the spacer re-torque.
One of the best explanations about wheel spacers , thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you 😊
The hub centric ones are the best of course, great video!!!
Yes they are!
@@milanmastracci Yeah, I've read actually a day or two ago that if use spacers that your spring rate, although, technically stays the same, the spring rate to the wheels get reduced, I.E. say like if in the rear, your springs get softer in the rear, and also u increase wear on your wheel bearings, even though your looks improve on the car.
Was that on video where they showed a rear wheel of a pickup came off and the tire flipped over a jeep on the expressway?
absolutely clear explanation. thank you very much. you are a nice instructor.
Glad it was helpful!
is there a guideline for choosing thickness of offset or is it more of a esthetic consideration in moving the wheel outward?
Depends on your goals. If you're looking to clear large brakes that you've just installed, you would have to measure to determine what the minimum thickness is, however if you're simply looking to have better wheel fitment and move the wheel outward, it depends on how flush you like it. Hope that helps!
QUESTION: what if I put on 1.5 spacers and I need a little more, could I add a 1/4" slip on if I upgrade the studs? can you run double spacers?
Informative, my old 911 has 2 inch front and 3 inch back spacers.
Very informative and in depth! Awesome video bro 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Glad you liked it!
Great video, I have been looking for a good video talking about wheel spacers.
Glad you enjoyed! Be sure to share it 👍
i missed this guy so much...
Why do they come in pairs of two? I have a mini cooper and decided I want 15mm spacers but do I have to get them in different sizes for front and back?
I’m thinking of ordering a set of 5mm hubcentric spacers, but it doesn’t have a lip to complement the larger bore of an aftermarket wheel. Would you suggest using the spacer and adding on hubcentric rings as well?
Can I use 10mm slip ons without extended studs? What if I can't/don't want to do it?
I have them on my challenger and I have had wheel spacers on many many vehicles and they don’t really hurt anything if they aren’t more than 1.5 inches maybe 2 at the most
Love the video only thing confusing me is the twork concept? How many turns you have to do on each nuds..
Also you have to trim the studs on the bolt on spacer to the exact length of the studs on the car?
I’m looking to put spacer on my 5 lugs Ford Expedition 2000 4x4 needs to install a spacer conversion 5 lugs to 6. The rims are 6 lugs 2020 F150
Good info as I’m in the market for some spacers for my Mazda. Thanks
Glad to help!
Should probably add that you wanna inspect/re-torque the lug nuts in a week or 100 miles
I have a 2017 pilot and put some to me and it’s rubbing front side I have 285/45R22 wondering if space will help the rubbing
Great stuff man!!! Best explanation by far! What would you recommend for an 04 GX 470. Not lifted, No off roading. Just going for an more aggressive stance with a wider foot print. Thanks
That was an amazing schooling. Thank you very much 🙏🏽
I just need something to put space between the brakes on my Challenger to be able to use a steel wheel Spare wheel I put together. The car has 20" mags...I made up a spare the same ride height from a 17" rim and a 245 / 65/ 17 tire but- when I put it on it rubs something...Can I use a slip on spacer? Glad I saw this video cause I almost bought the one with studs...I don't need it.
I shoupd have watched this before I putchased my wheel spacers from Premier Auto Acc/ebay. The are 25mm hub centric 6061 T6 aluminum, but now am nervous to put them on.
Great video!! Very informative!
Clarification so I understand correctly.. so if I just need 8mm spacers I would need extended studs?
I’ve seen other videos where they just slip-on the spacers less than 10mm.
All comes down to how many threads you have with the stock studs. Once the stud is broken loose, count the number of turns and multiply the pitch ((1.25 or 1.5). Then minus the 8 mm and see if you have enough threads left
can't you use the slip on spacers with longer than stock wheel lug bolts?
Nice video 👍🏼👌 for me H&R are my go to always for spacers 👍🏼👌
amazing video, thanks for making this. certainly has shed some light for me!!!
Can I rely solely on Bonoss giving me the correct parts for the job?
Like: I preferred 15mm front and 25mm rear from Bonoss for a Genesis GV70. They all are bolt on and is it ok to use a dab of never seize on the hub? And use blue loctite on the bolts of the spacer after it’s TQ to 84ft lbs? Then put the wheel in and TQ to the manuals spec?
Or skip the loctite and drive it for 100miles and take the wheels off and check TQ of the spacers since it a new mating ?
Someone mentioned to buy new rim lug nuts as it’ll look ugly now but not sure why if using stock hardware?
@milanmastracci is it possible to stack spacers, and is it safe? I'm trying to achieve a -10 offset. I currently have a +55 offset and I was only able to get a hold of a 60mm wheel spacer which would put me at -5mm offset. I came across a 5mm spacer and was wondering if its possible to stack the two spacers together to achieve a -10 wheel offset. Thanks for any input.
I want to put 3/4 inch slip on spacers. My current lug studs are 1 inch. Do you recommend I use 1.5 inch studs or 2 inch ones? Thanks.
One thing you didn't mention - wheel spacers can also be used to convert to different wheels. For example, my Jeep has factory 5x4.5" spacing. The spacers allowed for newer 5x5" spaced wheels.
I got an mx5 Nd. I 'd like ti mount spacers like the blackones. The question is: they should be all the same measures? I would like 15mm for the front and 20mm for the rear. Helppp
I would like to buy one for my Mini Cooper s R56 2012 . Which one do you recommend for me . I like your Mini Cooper setup.. thanks good info
Are forged aluminum spacers okay? what does forged billet mean?
if i want to run a 13mm slip on style spacer do i have to change my bolts? will my stock hub bolts be long enough to use? really don't want to mess around with my stock parts if i don't need to.
What about minimum center clearance on a 12-10-08mm spacers very important and a common made mistakte!
do we have to have spacers on all wheels, or can we just do the front two? the car is mercedes c43 amg 2017 AWD
Are those bonoss bolt on spacers safe for long dustances?
what is the limit when it comes to the wider space?
As much as needed, as little as necessary. Ideally you'll want to go to a max of 1.5", as the larger the spacer, the more stress it puts on your factory studs. For most applications, 1" is usually more than enough.
If I use slip on spacers for my 2012 TL fwd does I need new stud s. To installed them let me know
Great video! This is information. I ha e a question. I saw that they had 2 different model numbers for the g37 coupes. BONOSS Forged AL7075-T6 Active Cooling 5×114.3 Hubcentric Wheel Spacers for Infiniti G37, BONOSS Forged AL6061-T6 Active Cooling Hubcentric 5×114.3 Wheel Spacers for Infiniti G37
I'm trying to figure out which one to get. Thank you.
What wheel spacers would u recommend for a Nissan 09 base touring 370z?
Hi.
I am going to install IMS suspension with 2" lift and 30mm spacers.
My tire size is 265/65/R17
I hope this is sufficient to prevent any rollovers.
I have two German cars, my wife's is a 2001 2ltr W203 and I have used the same process and brand, except that they are wheel lugs. For this one I would like to know if I can fit an adapter type spacer from the Mercedes fitment to bring it out to 114.3 bolt pattern? I have heard of the 120pcd to 114.3pcd and also the other way around but with lug bolts I am not sure?
The other car is a BMW X5 and to be honest I am not in love with lug bolts at all, it runs staggered wheels 10" rears and 9" fronts and I would really like to make them fill out the wheel well just that bit nicer. It is a 2006 E53d, standard BMW rims and the only other thing I might consider is to fit 10" on the front and then fill them out or just change to wheel studs. What is your thoughts on this?
Thank you for a very excellent lesson on wheel spacers. Well done!
Bonoss doesn't make spacers for my Subaru 5x100/56.1 CB.
Any suggestions?
If you send them an email, they will have what you need. I can guarantee they have spacers for you 👍
What you said may be true for vehicles from Japan and Asia but cars from Europe are different VW/Audi for instance he wheel hub might have a chamfer at the base of the hub and the corresponding spacer must have a chamfer on it's mating surface so the spacer sits flush sometimes this poses a problem because those type of spacers have a chamfer on the wheel side too and IF your aftermarket wheels don't have a deep enough chamfer the wheel won't sit flush to the spacer...research this before going out and buying any spacer, most "tuner shops" will not take back spacers if they've just been "test fitted". Another thing the smaller (thinner) slip on spacers are not hub AND wheel centric they are only hub centric so if you use those use proper torquing procedures there comes a point of no return IMO when using the thin ones is it worth it?
Great, and well explained video. Thank you
Recently bought a 2002 mk4 that had 20 mm spacers on the rear and 12 mm in front. All these spacers have 10 holes but only 5 are used. I do not know anything about spacers but these look exactly like the bolt on you show here. But! Mine are not bolted on but used as spacers using only the lug bolts to hold the rim. ..question; is this safe? And , would it cause a vibration? I have vibration at 40 mph..
What should I do? Buy the spacers that do not bolt on to the bearing hub?
Thanks..