This has all been (and continues to be) such a steep learning curve. Printing a table top figure or such is one thing, but when things have to be dimensionally accurate and fit together, things get so much more complicated. Printing resin shrinkage as you mentioned, then if using that as a master, there's mold shrinkage to factor in. And then shrinkage of the casting material. So, so many variables - it's maddening.
Right? It's so much mathematical trial and error for something I thought would largely be artistic. I'm definitely getting the hang of it as I go, but I didn't anticipate some of these curve balls.
He turned out amazing! What a fantastic face. I really like that he's more realistic than the traditionally anime-ish BJD's from big companies. I would probably be interested in a pre-order, but I don't have any SD sized dolls and I don't think that size head would look great on an MSD or YOSD body :P
i have seen some of your doll tutorial like way back and been awhile and i gotta say i like the 3d printer you got its nice and great for customizing your own character that you created. part of me wanted to try get it next year on tax return and i love bjd doll its my second collection hobby.
I have a theory on why the water trick wasn't working for you. I know using hot water to help remove supports would only be easier if you are using the "proper" support settings to make the more finer connection point between the support and the print, otherwise it will pull out a lot of dimples. However with the suction of printing a large doll head you might also get more fails using those types of connection points than you would say printing minis. Which would then make sense to just remove with clippers and sanding down(especially if you have supports on easily sandable surfaces and not a highly detailed/textured design)
The 'rinsing in hot water' thing, and it ruining the sculpt might be because of the resin. Resin comes in two types for 3D printers. Water Soluble, and Alcohol Based. MOST of the people I watch that do 3D printing (cause I wanna 3d print figures and dolls too) that do Warhammer or D&D mini printing for their own games, use Rubbing Alcohol to rinse the prints before curing. Also even if your resin is water soluble, I would think it should be cold or room temp water, because heat makes things pliable.
Yeah, for a huge majority of people I've spoken to, they do what I was doing and use alcohol first for cleaning, then the hot water is specifically to soften the supports and make them easier to remove prior to the final curing. Under normal circumstances, hot water would do nothing but make the supports easier to remove. This particular issue of uncured surface phenomena has proven extremely interesting as I've experimented with it and spoken with scientists and university professors to determine exactly what's happening. I've ultimately found some good solutions for how to compensate for it, but it's way too much to address in a comment :) Hoping to make a video about it at some point soon because it's a pretty complicated problem on a mechanical level!
I am not a type loyalist... this is regular Elegoo beige :) But I have also liked using SirayaTech fast type and Anycubic's water washable eco resin. Since I mostly use my printer for making masters that will be cast in urethane it doesn't matter much what I use!
I start with spheres for the eyes, then make a flattened egg shape that suits the inside of the head. I use Blender's boolean functions to subtract the geometry of the spheres and egg from the solid 3D head. :)
@@mitchiribeetle225 They're super finicky! Blender has a basic information bit here: docs.blender.org/manual/en/latest/modeling/modifiers/generate/booleans.html But the chief problem I have is it either not working, or doing the opposite of what it's supposed to. I recently learned that when that happens, it means two or more vertices are overlapping and preventing it from working correctly, so shifting pieces by a pixel or two and trying again will help.
may i ask to join the doll printing community youre in? im looking to get a custom doll designed and printed and its been a comedy of errors so far for me
I'm actually not in any organized communities ^^; I know there are a few, but I just speak directly with people who are active in BJD printing and share photos on Instagram and the like. They have a lot more connections than I do and do a great job of helping me find people for me to talk to.
I've actually found this eco resin to have some interesting benefits that make me really glad I got it! Too much to share in a comment alone, but it may become one of my go-tos for prototyping due to some of those benefits.
I'm so excited to see how the new printer adds to your doll making process!
Doin what works for ya, is so true! different strokes for different folks. 👍😊
This has all been (and continues to be) such a steep learning curve. Printing a table top figure or such is one thing, but when things have to be dimensionally accurate and fit together, things get so much more complicated. Printing resin shrinkage as you mentioned, then if using that as a master, there's mold shrinkage to factor in. And then shrinkage of the casting material. So, so many variables - it's maddening.
Right? It's so much mathematical trial and error for something I thought would largely be artistic. I'm definitely getting the hang of it as I go, but I didn't anticipate some of these curve balls.
You are so very right ! 👍❤️🙏🍀
I’m really excited for the coming videos! My resin printed arrived 3 days ago and there’s loads to learn 😊
Sometimes the machines just come haunted, and all logic goes out the window for the majority of prints. 😂😂😂 I speak from experience with the Mars 2
It looks beautiful, Lomi! I love seeing your learning processes, it's so inspirational, and I watch your videos over and over again to learn from you!
So cool! Your crafting videos and journey is so rewarding to watch!
You take all the time you need for more practice, see you next time. :D
He turned out amazing! What a fantastic face. I really like that he's more realistic than the traditionally anime-ish BJD's from big companies. I would probably be interested in a pre-order, but I don't have any SD sized dolls and I don't think that size head would look great on an MSD or YOSD body :P
He is going to be so handsome! 😍
Very exciting stuff :)
i have seen some of your doll tutorial like way back and been awhile and i gotta say i like the 3d printer you got its nice and great for customizing your own character that you created. part of me wanted to try get it next year on tax return and i love bjd doll its my second collection hobby.
If I had actual money I would love one of your dolls!
I have a theory on why the water trick wasn't working for you. I know using hot water to help remove supports would only be easier if you are using the "proper" support settings to make the more finer connection point between the support and the print, otherwise it will pull out a lot of dimples. However with the suction of printing a large doll head you might also get more fails using those types of connection points than you would say printing minis. Which would then make sense to just remove with clippers and sanding down(especially if you have supports on easily sandable surfaces and not a highly detailed/textured design)
The 'rinsing in hot water' thing, and it ruining the sculpt might be because of the resin. Resin comes in two types for 3D printers. Water Soluble, and Alcohol Based. MOST of the people I watch that do 3D printing (cause I wanna 3d print figures and dolls too) that do Warhammer or D&D mini printing for their own games, use Rubbing Alcohol to rinse the prints before curing.
Also even if your resin is water soluble, I would think it should be cold or room temp water, because heat makes things pliable.
Yeah, for a huge majority of people I've spoken to, they do what I was doing and use alcohol first for cleaning, then the hot water is specifically to soften the supports and make them easier to remove prior to the final curing. Under normal circumstances, hot water would do nothing but make the supports easier to remove. This particular issue of uncured surface phenomena has proven extremely interesting as I've experimented with it and spoken with scientists and university professors to determine exactly what's happening. I've ultimately found some good solutions for how to compensate for it, but it's way too much to address in a comment :) Hoping to make a video about it at some point soon because it's a pretty complicated problem on a mechanical level!
may i ask, which resin do you use?
I am not a type loyalist... this is regular Elegoo beige :) But I have also liked using SirayaTech fast type and Anycubic's water washable eco resin. Since I mostly use my printer for making masters that will be cast in urethane it doesn't matter much what I use!
How the heck did you hollow out the head? Ive been trying to do that it for ages!
I start with spheres for the eyes, then make a flattened egg shape that suits the inside of the head. I use Blender's boolean functions to subtract the geometry of the spheres and egg from the solid 3D head. :)
@@LomisPlayground Thank you! I remember reading about Booleans, but I could never get it to work the way I wanted to.
@@mitchiribeetle225 They're super finicky! Blender has a basic information bit here: docs.blender.org/manual/en/latest/modeling/modifiers/generate/booleans.html
But the chief problem I have is it either not working, or doing the opposite of what it's supposed to. I recently learned that when that happens, it means two or more vertices are overlapping and preventing it from working correctly, so shifting pieces by a pixel or two and trying again will help.
i thnk making the eyes or teeth fit from the inside is very hard to sculpt lol are there any good tutorials for it?
I honestly haven't found any yet! It's been a terrible bout of trial and error for me.
may i ask to join the doll printing community youre in?
im looking to get a custom doll designed and printed and its been a comedy of errors so far for me
I'm actually not in any organized communities ^^; I know there are a few, but I just speak directly with people who are active in BJD printing and share photos on Instagram and the like. They have a lot more connections than I do and do a great job of helping me find people for me to talk to.
Welcome to the dark side of 3d printing. Eco resin is a gimmick and no less toxic than standard resin but if you get it cheap then it's worthwhile.
I've actually found this eco resin to have some interesting benefits that make me really glad I got it! Too much to share in a comment alone, but it may become one of my go-tos for prototyping due to some of those benefits.
@@LomisPlayground I am lucky that Monicure3d is not far from me so I pretty much just use their resins cause I can waddle into the store.
I like this male doll ‘s face ! Looks male and not feminine!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻❤️🙀👵🏻😱👍🏻🖖🏼👽👍🏻