Repair The Bosch VA4 Diesel Injector Pump 1/2
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- In this episode of the International Harvester TD-7 Series C Bulldozer Restoration, I will show you how I rebuilt the diesel injector pump for my bulldozer. The diesel injector pump model for this bulldozer is the Bosch VA4. This part 1 of 2. I hope you will enjoy this series of videos as I enjoyed making it for you. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me and I will be happy to answer your questions.
Thank you for these videos, they are so helpful and much appreciated.
Thank you, I appreciate your feedback
I want to thank you for making and putting up this video. It helped me to replace all the seals in my VA4-CR injector pump on my International 574 tractor. The tractor ran fine but the pump leaked in multiple locations.
The diesel pump shop wanted $1200 just to fix the leaks. Your video gave me the confidence to remove the pump and replace the seals myself.
The seal kit cost $85. My leaks are fixed and the tractor runs better than ever.
Thank you.
Good morning sir, I am so happy to hear that. I appreciate your comment.
Very helpful video and greatly appreciated. After I watch the second part of this I’m heading outside to pull the pump from my IH 3500A backhoe. Again,very glad you made and share this video.
Thank you sir, I appreciate your feedback.
Salam, Great video. Very well put together. Thanks.
Good morning, thank you for the comment and the subscription. You have a great day.
Most impressed by how you turned the injection pump sleeves from scratch. Very nice. I am thinking you have not had any problems with those parts since.
Still running fine since 2014. No issues with the injectors pump. Thank you for watching
Great video! It was big help in rebuilding a VA pump on my International tractor with a D239 engine. A few things I would like to add (respectfully). I did not use a kit. I ordered o rings and copper seal rings. From what I have read the current diesel fuel is attacking the buna n seals so I tried to use viton instead - I'm not sure what the kit uses. Viton is available from McMaster Carr in metric sizes. I am not recommending this as it is more expensive, I am just putting it out there so if Bosch quits offering kits these pumps can still be rebuilt.
Good morning, you are right. This pump can be built without the kit. I mentioned that in the second video, I had to purchase additional rings from a local seal and o-ring shop as the kit is incompetent. The pump still good, I rebuilt it in 2014. Thank you for the information and the comment. You have a great day
Merci beaucoup
merci j'apprécie le compliment
Dude, look at the views on this video! And you have more subscribers than we do now! Good job.
Thank you brother.
If you google fiat_355_455_505_605_c_p_051_100.pdf it is a repair manual for this style of pump that includes a good breakdown of the theory of operation. I tried to put the PDF in this comment but it won't let me. The enrichment/shutoff spool is actually a "shuttle" meaning it slides in and out constantly. After my rebuild I had a intermittent problem where the engine would speed up, not run away but go to a high idle. It seems to have gone away but I suspect the problem was in or around that "shuttle ".
Thank you for sharing your experience and the manual. When I rebuilt my injector pump I couldn't find any information about it. Thank you again Dave,
Dave, that's a great bit of info that may help me out. Salam has been giving me advice on my Bosch VA6 pump on our old Farmall tractor with a German D310 engine. Thanks for sharing.
The two videos you did are so helpful! Because my IH574 tractor sits idle for long periods the rust (moister in the diesel) seized the throttle speed control shaft which then caused the pin to break. My question is, how can I free the shaft to remove it? We have soaked it in WD40 but have been unable to get it out so far...
Good morning, try to clean it and dry it good. Then soak it in vinegar for two to three days. The vinegar will break the rust. Do not use heat as this will damage the heat treatment of the shaft and pin. Have you inspected all the parts inside the injector pump? If everything is ok, make sure to flush the fuel tank, fuel line, filter assembly, and new fuel filters before you re start. If you have any more questions please let me know.
I need your best guess on the throttle dowel pin size. They break off and I want to order new ones but min order is 20 pins.
Bothe the shut off n throttle pins are the same size and length. Im guessing 1mmx12mm
Let me know if you know thanks
Good evening, I am not sure on the pin size. Your best option is to get a caliper and measure the broken piece. If you don't have it. Then try to file a small nail until it fits in the hole and then measure the part that fit. Other option is to try a local hardware store as they should have them.
Hi Salam, Thanks for the great video. I also have a leak at the speed adjuster shaft on the VA4 pump. Just wondering do you think the O-rings and wipers could be replaced while pump is still installed on dozer? Worried that I might loose a spring or the coupler during the removal of the shaft/ bushing. I'd appreciate your thoughts.
Hi John, I highly suggest to remove the injector pump from the engine, clean it and you can work on it in a clean environment just incase something fly :) so you can find it easy. One important thing about the removal I forgot to mention, If your engine is running good, make sure you mark the injector pump body to the engine so you can put it back the same way and it should run the same, as you can move the pump CW or CCW just little to adjust the fire timing/advancement. when you open the engine cover, keep rotating the engine until the dot on the injector pump meets with a dot on the other gear and leave it there so you can re install the pump at the proper timing order.
I wish you the best of luck,
If you have more questions, please let me know
@@SalamSayhood I agree. The pump is likely to be very dirty. Probably best to remove it from the engine.
Thanks so much for putting up this video I have a 1972 IH 2400 backhoe and it has a Bosch VA-BR pump very much like the one in your video. This is the first video I was able to find detailing how to put it back together. Where did you order the parts kit from. Mine has a small leak which is troublesome.
Hello Jim, Thank you for the comment, I ordered mine from a local diesel repair shop, They did not have the kit at the time but they ordered it for me from somewhere in Houston, Texas. It cost me about $24. Like I said in the video, I had to purchase some extra missing parts for the Bosch kit from a local seal and O-Rings place called HD distributors. If you can't find the kit and you have to order O-Rings, Seal and wipers, make sure to let them know the material can handle diesel fuel.
@@SalamSayhood Thanks
@@SalamSayhood Hello Sir! Its seems to you been well knowledge agout va4! So could you tell me ; If mine pump have a stuck bypass valve,could i take it out ,and fix it:pump in place in engine? Just open it ,spring in place? Or do i need to open cup the spring holder and take spring out?
Hello sir, I have some experience with injector pumps. The best advice I can give you:
1- make sure the fuel system is clean and diesel flow freely to the pump.
2- make sure you bleed the pump from air in the fuel lines.
3- check and see if the pump is trying to pump diesel to injectors by loosening one of the lines to any injector and see if diesel is leaking out while you trying to run the engine.
If no diesel coming out and you want to try to fix the issue, then do the following:
1- clean the area around the pump and engine timing cover.
2- open the timing cover and rotate the engine manually until the dots meet each other (one on the pump gear and one on the engine gear).
3- take note or pictures of all the connections to the pump.
4- remove the pump from the engine.
5- disassemble the pump on a clean table and make sure the work area is clean just in case you drop something so you can find it easy.
6- clean and inspect all the parts of the pump.
7- follow the instructions on my 2 videos to re assemble the pump.
You can try to work on the pump while it’s in the engine however, injector pump when failing you have to make sure everything inside is good to minimize further damage. The bypass valve or the pump assembly a lot of time they fail due to damage from dirty diesel or rust. I wish you the best of luck and if you have more questions please let me know.
Hi Salam. I was wondering if you could help with any ideas . I have a Fiat 640DT tractor fitted with a BOSCH VA4 CR type injector pump and it has started revving up by itself in bursts from idle to full boar. I have fitted new filters , cleaned the air filter , checked all fittings for leaks etc but now i am running out of ideas. It has to be something in the injector pump but what part can cause it to just rev up and down by itself ? I don't think this type of pump has a govenor spring that could break. I'm stumped so please can you help. Cheers. Chris.
Good morning Chris,
Please check or inspect the following:
1- the two arms on the injector pump (springs, wear or any type of damage).
2- the linkages to the injector pump.
3- make sure the fuel lines are good. On my machine, I replaced the metal pipes with fuel line hoses from the tank all the way to the fuel filter assembly and from the injectors return line to the tank. Make sure no leaks.
4- bleed any air in the fuel system. After you replace the fuel filter, make sure the fuel flows to the pump. Remove the 10mm bolt on the top of the injector pump and allow the fuel to come out until there is no air in the fuel. Make sure the fuel tank is full while you are doing the bleeding.
5- make sure you have clean and fresh diesel fuel.
If all the above are okay, you have to remove the injector pump and inspect the inside.
Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Hi Salam . Thank you for the reply .Yes i checked all the lines for correct flow and leaks and yes i bled the air out of the system after i replaced the filters . The revving up and down started before i replaced the filters and up till then it was running fine. What part of the injector pump do you think could be causing the problem and how. I am pretty good with mechanics but i didn't want to tear into the pump if all i had to do was remove an easy piece of it and clean it or something. Also i didn't think it was worth pulling it to pieces and then putting it back together unless i had all new seals etc. Cheers. Chris .@@SalamSayhood
Good morning Chris,
If everything outside the injector pump is good and you double check it twice, then the problem is with the injector pump. There are several components inside the injector pump to accelerate and decelerate the RPM. You could have a wear in the cam that controls the pressure flow, or the housing for it, or it could be an internal leak, or many other issues. Please check my channel, I have another video when I rebuilt the injector pump for my dump truck and I provided a lot of tips regarding repairing any type of interior pump. Please watch it first. I also have a complete playlist regarding diesel components. Repairing an injector pump is easy, you just need to make sure to do it in a clean environment in case you drop one of the little parts. My two videos regarding the VA4 pump are complete and easy to follow. Best of luck and if you have any more questions please let me know. Have a great day
Hi mister Salam l have the same pump and l have problem when the tractor is cold it wont start after l start it so hard l dont have problem while it's warm after he gets cold it wont start again what do you think its the problem? Thank you so much, this video is very helpfull.
Hello, old diesel engines in general require starter fluid in a very cold temperature. However, in temperatures above zero c, it should start easy. You can do the following:
1- set the engine valve clearances.
2- clean air filter.
3- clean fuel.
4- new fuel filter.
If the engine running fine when starts, then you have no timing issue or pump/injectors issue.
If you have more questions please let me know.
hello im have one international 644 and same probleme one pumpe intresting buy your tow parts make can you help me please ?
Hello, unfortunately I don't sale anything. You can go to machine shop in your area or if you know someone with metal lathe. They can make you these two bushings. They were very easy to build. Thank you for watching
Wow, amazing work! Great metalworking and milling skills.
I currently have my Bosch EP/VA6 pump apart because it was not pumping diesel. I still don't know why it was not pumping. I have videos on my channel about it.
Do you have any idea why the diesel would not squirt out of the lines when taken off at the injectors? Maybe something wrong with my fins (the ones you installed at about 17 minutes)?
Thanks,
Dustin
Dustin, Thank you sir for your kind words. if there was no restriction in the fuel lines, filter and no air in the lines, I am positive you already checked these, and if there is no mechanical issue with the pump, then it's most likely the bypass valve under the fins, I will check your videos in a little bit and if I see something else, I will comment on your channel.
@@SalamSayhood Oh, so the bypass maybe getting stuck would allow all the fuel to go into the body instead of into the lines and to the injectors! Wow, thank you! That is certainly something I will check.
@@servihomestead4324 how'd you come out with that? I have the same problem. Motor started bogging and stopped. Thought some trash got in there somehow. Nothing coming out of the ports. I can hear the bypass running fuel back into the tank.
@@Matticefence Hi, Dave. Followed manual, put everything back together, but never could get plug off on one end of regulator valve! Starts easier now, but runs really fast and doesn't respond to throttle bar changes at all.
@@servihomestead4324 Thanks for the reply. It helps. M Dresser International Parts manual for the 510 & 515-4 Pay Loader, doesn't cover the injection pump. Your pointer and Salam's video does help me to navigate forward. If I find something regarding the high volume throttle situation, I will pass it on. Thank you for your quick input.
I just rebuilt my pump watching you video and it is an awesome guide. I do have an issue though. Number 1 when then pump is reassembled and I rotate the shaft manually should it be smooth all the way around or should it get hard and as you get it past where the distributor goes up it gets easy again until the next time it goes to push up. I hope that makes sense. Secondly the original reason for me rebuilding was the little pin on the throttle shaft broke off. I feed everything up and made sure the little pins they go into were rotating freely but after getting it all back together the throttle side was still hard and guess what it broke that pin. I'm in the process of trying to source another one (they aren't easy to find) but when I do I don't want that to happen again. It's almost like it's pushing to far down into the slot and binding on the body underneath. Any ideas on this? Thanks in advance... Dale
Good evening,
When you rotate the pump you should feel hard then easy four times per one rotation for this pump. You are right, you are feeling the pressure of the cam and the distributor spring.
When you assembled the two small cams into body, they should rotate freely. The two bushings (the one I made on the lathe in the video) should house the two shafts that activate the two cams (one for the throttle and one for the shut off.) The pins inside them should also operate freely. The only resistance you should feel is the rubber seal inside (without the spring installed). The problem with these pumps is they sit sometimes for a long time and rust may build and cause problems. Make sure all the surfaces are clean (you may have to polish the moving part with 2000 grit sandpaper) don't over do it, just make sure everything operate smoothly. If you have any more questions, please let me know.
Happy new year.
Good deal so the distributor part is right it seems... And yes they did rotate freely or they did until I tightened the plate down on it apparently. That was the original issue this pump quit in the first place and I called myself polishing it all up but I'll recheck it before I go back together again. So it looks like that pin is just a press fit maybe stainless pin. What are your thoughts on drilling that out and going back with one maybe even a little heavier to combat this issue.... I know the slot will accept it but even if not go back with the same size because other than the little pin the cam out shaft is fine.
Would you please point out what pin? See the video and tell me the time so I can check it and be able to help you. Don't drill, heat, grind on the injectors pump as this may damage it permanently.
@@SalamSayhood I've replied 3 times and none of them have posted so I will try 1 more time. (I'm assuming it maybe because I tried to post a link with it we'll see). The pins are the little ones about the 8 min mark on the part 2 video. They are the pins that engage the cam shaft to turn the fuel up/down. I did what I mentioned and drove the broken off one out and replaced it with roll pin and it works perfectly as far as shaft rotation. Now I've put it back on the tractor and can't get it to pump 1 drop of fuel out of the high side. I'm getting fuel to the front side of the pump just nothing coming out of the back even with none of the lines connected to the pump. Any ideas on that?
I got three notifications about comments but I couldn't open them. It shows "comment is no longer available". If the two shafts aligned correctly, then the out one should rotate the cam freely. Also make sure the cams are installed correctly as you can install them 180 degrees off and this will prevent the pump from injecting fuel. I explained this in the video. If you verify the cams are installed correctly, then most likely the problem could be:
1- the relief valve is leaking internally.
2- the distributor or the rotor is not installed or assembled correctly.
Please keep me updated.
I have a pump on my td7c that’s not letting the engine idle will run half to full throttle but still doesn’t have full power seems to be a fuel delivery problem. Any suggestions?
Good evening, if you set the throttle on idle, the engine will die, half to full throttle, the engine run but doesn't have full power? If this the case:
1- do you have white smoke?
2- the filter clean and no air restrictions in the intake?
3- the fuel filters clean or new?
4- the fuel tank is clean and has fresh diesel fuel?
5- the fuel lines have no restrictions or leak?
6- you added some fuel additive to clean the injectors?
7- the engine valve clearances are set correctly?
8- any knocking noise or diesel fuel get mixed with the engine oil?
9- the throttle and shut off levers on the injectors pump are free and set correctly?
Please let me know,
Everything is normal in the engine. New filters all new diesel no smoke. Simply feels like it’s not getting enough gas to run it revs really slow and is hard to start. And quickly looses power when loaded down. I added 2 stroke oil to the diesel and ran it a little longer and seem to have helped.
How about timing issue? Have some one removed the pump or adjusted the position?
Judging my the grease layers the pump has never been off.
Have you watched my second video and compared the levers of your injector pump to how I set mine? If everything chacked good, no air in the fuel lines ...etc. then most likely there is an issue with the injectors pump. One thing you can check to verify if it's injectors or pump issue, while the engine running at the slowest stable RPM, loose the nut that connects the line from the pump to injector at the injector side and for each injector and see if it's squirts diesel fuel, also notice the pressure of each and the effect on the engine. This pump is easy to rebuild, I just want you to make sure it's nothing else so you don't waist your time.