Love these cellar project videos. Would be really cool to see a map of the cellar project overlay in the video to help conceptualize what the route looks like.
good suggestion. When we make a progress video and try and remember to do something like that (although can't promise I will remember ). I think Magnus did some sort of cellar map in his cellar video when he came down. off the top of my head I think it was in the 'Olympic crack climbing' one. glad you like the vids. thanks for watching
etdrefiel second session had much more progress (although didn't film it). Crux boulder problem in 2 sections, before ripping a monster flap across the knuckles 😅
Daniel Parker you know when something has been there so long it just blends in with the surroundings and you don't notice it anymore...that's happened with that pad. Totally forgot that could be a useful thing, haha
Wide boyz tape is the best! PERIOD. Paddle hands! That little beginning slope part is almost exactly what i built, for practicing my golf swing haha!. Thankyou again for the inspiration.
haha thanks, we like to think Wide Boyz tape is pretty good as well :) crack climbing always help the golf. its like the double fist golfers grip when offwidthing. offwidthing meets golf, who would have thought it
haha, I feel like this one could take all winter to do the full link there and back. hopefully make some progress vids for you guys further down the line :)
it's always funny when people ask for the Blueprints of the cellar or how we built it. Probably just worth sending them this video. -random wood -screws -bosh it together -crack on haha
That is the most bosh route I’ve ever seen, nice work as always . By the way could you wonderful lads tell me how to get to century crack? I’m going to Utah in a bit and I’d like to see it to have some crack inspiration.
I am currently getting down with a sickness for not even a week now but knowing I can't go to the gym just itches me. Well watching people climb eases the itch a bit. :)
Jeremy Parker wide is too restful these days, gotta keep the pump high and moves hard 😉 But maybe we could chuck in a couple of century offwidth laps at the end for good measure
When you put the niblets in, are you making it like some real world crack where you can't get your feet in and training for that situation, or is it just for the sake of making it harder?
its for both. feet in this thin hands has become too easy over the past few years, so we need to spice it up a bit. training with the feet outside makes it way harder, meaning when you go back to putting feet in the crack it'll feel a doddle. thats the theory
Doug Crabtree it's just smooth wood in the hard section we are trying. Where the crack is white we have our Wide Boyz soft grip in there. We have a mixture of both throughout the cellar. But plain wood is good for the squeezing power 🙂
Jesus wept, I'm a joiner and a reasonably experienced climber (although I shy away from cracks) And often tried this at work when I'm joisting out a floor, I can't even lift my feet of the floor! I need to practice. Cheers for the motivation lads. Videos are great.
Doug Crabtree haha briallint, always get chance to practice, great stuff. You could even get some pinch training going on the joists. Glad you like the vids, thanks for watching
So much stoke! How wide do your boards need to be for a crack machine to not have your finger tips go through on hand jams? Did you guys texture them? Thanks!
in the cellar, we have reject Wide Boyz volumes (i.e. the ones that had problems and we couldn't sell), so they have the normal soft grip. and then the other wooden bits are just wood, no texture. in regards to depth, it depends on crack width and body part you're putting into it. If you're building a hand crack make sure its a bit longer than the length of your hand. thin hand crack about hand length, offwidth needs to be a bit deeper of course as you'll be sticking arms and legs in. just measure the body part and match the crack depth accordingly. simples
I know the rule is you must use the niblets for your feet to make it harder, but I am wondering is it not possible to have a pure crack be 8C or harder in the cellar?
yes, it is possible to do that, before our 2019 trip to the desert we did an 8c link with just crack features for hands feet. however we were keen to mix it up a little bit and try something new, we've done pure crack down there (ahem) for years so its time to try something different :)
Are you using the footholds instead of the crack to make it harder or is there some other reason, why you don't use the crack with your feet? Awesome series by the way, love the cellar project!
we're using the foot holds (niblets) around the edge to make it harder and just to mix it up a little bit. we've trained for years down there with feet in the crack and that gives a certain style of crack climbing which weve become pretty confident at, but we though we'd try something new, mix it up, create a different kind of movement and difficulty whilst crack climbing and training.
7:06 "That was close" to me meant that his head almost hit the drill... Then I realize they were still talking about the climb. BTW the beta is to layback the crack!
danballarin there has been more than 1 occasion we've come away with an injury not from the crack...mainly scraping ourselves against the edge of doorways. We'll try the layback next session 😉
@ 1:40 what is with this guy's little teeny-weeny ponytail on the top of his head above his forehead lol? is that his normal hairstyle? or did he lose a bet or something? :P
I can't fully remember the previous set but other than monos, did you guys ever set fingers on the super steep stuff? Or is it too weird to make with boards on overhangs? I built some wooden cracks under my balcony (with wide boys grip tape of course) but the finger crack is pretty ridiculous and painful! Thanks for the content, you guys are beasts!
we have made finger cracks before in the really steep section, but just some crappy mono thing, with small screw ons to hook your fingers over inside, in all honesty it didn't work that great. You can actually see it next to the thin crack when we come through the small doorway. the best success weve had with building finger cracks is when we have made big pods in the wood and had it angled anywhere from 20 to 45 degrees. it's inevitable that proper locking finger jams in roofs is going to be quite painful and pretty desperate
I guess quite a lot of the crack terms are in Pete's book, so they are vaguely official, haha. although niblets and Paddle hands, isn't in there. Paddle handing is called something else in there (or thinking about it maybe it's just descibed in the roof section but doesn't actually have a name) . but I think the Paddle Hand name is going to catch on. we're gona keep using it
Man I really want one of those for Christmas😅. Quick question, how do you grade cracks? It's something I've never really managed to get my head around.
Josef Little one of what for Christmas? Grading cracks, we just relate it to other cracks that have been established by others and our own first ascents. We relate crack grades to other cracks and not really other sport routes for example. Compare to a similar genre 👍
@@WideBoyz thanks for the tip. It's kind of hard to do that in the Czech Republic though. Everything is based off of how drunk the guy who did first ascent was at the time. I'd like to get a crack machine for Christmas, should've made that clearer sorry😃.
@@joseflittle4493 when we climbed in the Czech I remember I guy saying to me 'we go to the pub at the end of the day, not to celebrate the days climbing, but to celebrate we are still alive' haha
Visit our Wide Boyz shop here > wideboyz.com/wide-boyz-shop/
Pete in a couple of weeks: "lets try this blindfolded"
haha, that would be totally desperate, goodness...
Love these cellar project videos.
Would be really cool to see a map of the cellar project overlay in the video to help conceptualize what the route looks like.
good suggestion. When we make a progress video and try and remember to do something like that (although can't promise I will remember ). I think Magnus did some sort of cellar map in his cellar video when he came down. off the top of my head I think it was in the 'Olympic crack climbing' one.
glad you like the vids. thanks for watching
i love the mix of climbing and banter (friendy banter) its so fun to watch good luck with the project
Alice littlejohn thanks, and cheers fôr tuning in each week 👍
Is this bate to lure Ondra into your cellar?
squireltheo too right, haha. We need someone to be able to climb it 💪
@@WideBoyz The word "climb" has lost all meaning now, you guys are doing it in a cellar
@@eloytoro traverse horizontally maybe??!
This is great! I'm looking forward to see how you have progressed on this
etdrefiel second session had much more progress (although didn't film it). Crux boulder problem in 2 sections, before ripping a monster flap across the knuckles 😅
I love that there's a fresh crash pad wrapped in plastic, yet these guys are falling on couch cushions.
Daniel Parker you know when something has been there so long it just blends in with the surroundings and you don't notice it anymore...that's happened with that pad. Totally forgot that could be a useful thing, haha
Wide boyz tape is the best! PERIOD. Paddle hands! That little beginning slope part is almost exactly what i built, for practicing my golf swing haha!. Thankyou again for the inspiration.
haha thanks, we like to think Wide Boyz tape is pretty good as well :)
crack climbing always help the golf. its like the double fist golfers grip when offwidthing. offwidthing meets golf, who would have thought it
Posted a no effort video of the wood, C clamps, and tow strap Crack build. wideboyz asked for a pic. so heres the response.
Cellar videos are always my favorite.
Glad you like them!
I`ve been waiting for THIS!!!
and now its here. hope to get some progress videos up at some point in the near(ish) future
Gaah! "Paddle hands"... Love it. Crack route I did yesterday had a stretch of paddle-hands pulling an overhang and it was utterly desperate.
We used to hate the paddle hands, but now we've learnt to love them. Get the paddle out and get swimming to desperation
4:30 everyone checked their phone
I did when I was editing it...multiple times, haha
Awww Yesss!! So great to watch you guys really battle something. Proper Try Hard faces and everything! 😂. Really inspiring stuff! Lovin it!!
Crimp Cunningham .Climbing in North East England it's certainly gona be a tricky one to link is that...
1:13 Perfect editing to show what "pretty okay really" means XD
haha, you get what we mean ;)
This videos always make we wish I had a cellar to get cracked out in😉 excited to see who manages to weasel there way to the end first
haha, I feel like this one could take all winter to do the full link there and back. hopefully make some progress vids for you guys further down the line :)
This has to be the sickest training space in climbing. So blue collar and truly hard. Crack on boys!
it's always funny when people ask for the Blueprints of the cellar or how we built it. Probably just worth sending them this video.
-random wood
-screws
-bosh it together
-crack on
haha
Good effort!
That is the most bosh route I’ve ever seen, nice work as always . By the way could you wonderful lads tell me how to get to century crack? I’m going to Utah in a bit and I’d like to see it to have some crack inspiration.
CowTooons send us an email at info@wideboyz.com we'll get back to you on there
I am currently getting down with a sickness for not even a week now but knowing I can't go to the gym just itches me.
Well watching people climb eases the itch a bit. :)
keep watching and keep the psyche up. get better soon
You call yourselves the Wide Boyz and there's nothing wider than (baggy?) fists. Go on, put a few cheeky stacks in. It's clearly not hard enough yet 😅
Jeremy Parker wide is too restful these days, gotta keep the pump high and moves hard 😉
But maybe we could chuck in a couple of century offwidth laps at the end for good measure
@@WideBoyz 😳
Love what you guys are doing, but it drives me crazy that there is a bunch of garbage down there. Any chance you could clean up?
Sean Ferrell Tom....have you seen this?! Clean your bloody mess up 😂
@@WideBoyz strategically placed padding ? 😀
David Hulme did you see the one still wrapped up in its packet, haha!
When you put the niblets in, are you making it like some real world crack where you can't get your feet in and training for that situation, or is it just for the sake of making it harder?
its for both. feet in this thin hands has become too easy over the past few years, so we need to spice it up a bit. training with the feet outside makes it way harder, meaning when you go back to putting feet in the crack it'll feel a doddle. thats the theory
Is there anything to provide friction in between those wooden sections or are they just smooth?
Doug Crabtree it's just smooth wood in the hard section we are trying. Where the crack is white we have our Wide Boyz soft grip in there. We have a mixture of both throughout the cellar. But plain wood is good for the squeezing power 🙂
Jesus wept, I'm a joiner and a reasonably experienced climber (although I shy away from cracks)
And often tried this at work when I'm joisting out a floor, I can't even lift my feet of the floor! I need to practice. Cheers for the motivation lads. Videos are great.
Doug Crabtree haha briallint, always get chance to practice, great stuff. You could even get some pinch training going on the joists. Glad you like the vids, thanks for watching
So much stoke! How wide do your boards need to be for a crack machine to not have your finger tips go through on hand jams? Did you guys texture them? Thanks!
in the cellar, we have reject Wide Boyz volumes (i.e. the ones that had problems and we couldn't sell), so they have the normal soft grip. and then the other wooden bits are just wood, no texture.
in regards to depth, it depends on crack width and body part you're putting into it. If you're building a hand crack make sure its a bit longer than the length of your hand. thin hand crack about hand length, offwidth needs to be a bit deeper of course as you'll be sticking arms and legs in. just measure the body part and match the crack depth accordingly. simples
Are you guys still working towards the crucifix project? Or has it been deemed too hard for now?
baby steps. but a step back for the mo, mainly due to covid and traveling
I know the rule is you must use the niblets for your feet to make it harder, but I am wondering is it not possible to have a pure crack be 8C or harder in the cellar?
yes, it is possible to do that, before our 2019 trip to the desert we did an 8c link with just crack features for hands feet. however we were keen to mix it up a little bit and try something new, we've done pure crack down there (ahem) for years so its time to try something different :)
damn now this is content! looking forward to more progress :)
yes, we'll look at doing another video with some progress :)thanks for watching
@@WideBoyz I reckon Tom has the best desperation gurn but Pete gets top marks for colouration with that lovely pink hue.
@@mischahawker-yates2651 odd, usually Pete tends to pull some outrageously ridiculous faces...
Looks like a lovely place to climb 😂
haha, i'm sure its got worse over the years. more chalk dust and sweat and dusty mattresses. I can't see it improving anytime soon either!
@@WideBoyz especially after Chalky Magnus has been there doing some cheeky crimping 😂
David Hulme cheeky bugger...😂
Are you using the footholds instead of the crack to make it harder or is there some other reason, why you don't use the crack with your feet?
Awesome series by the way, love the cellar project!
we're using the foot holds (niblets) around the edge to make it harder and just to mix it up a little bit. we've trained for years down there with feet in the crack and that gives a certain style of crack climbing which weve become pretty confident at, but we though we'd try something new, mix it up, create a different kind of movement and difficulty whilst crack climbing and training.
and glad you like the cellar videos. hopefully gona get an update video on the project in the next few months :)
could i ask what crack glove they are? :)
Jess Doxey prototypes 👍
They look great
lets go!
MrTotoro98 bish bash bosh 💪
I notice you guys never seem to set finger jam cracks in the cellar. Is that cause a finger crack in a roof is impossible or some other reason?
Pete “totally desperate” Whittaker
too bloody right, haha
In my gym that would be a 6a at max..
Kidding of course, looks bonkers hard!
love to go to that gym, haha!!
7:06 "That was close" to me meant that his head almost hit the drill... Then I realize they were still talking about the climb. BTW the beta is to layback the crack!
danballarin there has been more than 1 occasion we've come away with an injury not from the crack...mainly scraping ourselves against the edge of doorways. We'll try the layback next session 😉
I'm just amazed they don't get splinters!
@ 1:40 what is with this guy's little teeny-weeny ponytail on the top of his head above his forehead lol? is that his normal hairstyle? or did he lose a bet or something? :P
kïtsune 😂 that's what 6 weeks off lock down did to him. Then he just kept it 🤷♂️
Have you guys built a Crucifix simulator yet? I want to see the Usain Bolting.
no we haven't built a direct replica of the project at the moment
You know its hard when you're only doing like 6 moves and you're already grunting on each one.
yeh!! although surprisingly the second session went better than I thought it would. slightly less grunting and slightly more moves in a row!
I can't fully remember the previous set but other than monos, did you guys ever set fingers on the super steep stuff? Or is it too weird to make with boards on overhangs? I built some wooden cracks under my balcony (with wide boys grip tape of course) but the finger crack is pretty ridiculous and painful!
Thanks for the content, you guys are beasts!
we have made finger cracks before in the really steep section, but just some crappy mono thing, with small screw ons to hook your fingers over inside, in all honesty it didn't work that great. You can actually see it next to the thin crack when we come through the small doorway.
the best success weve had with building finger cracks is when we have made big pods in the wood and had it angled anywhere from 20 to 45 degrees.
it's inevitable that proper locking finger jams in roofs is going to be quite painful and pretty desperate
Are those new prototype shoes Tom's got on? Don't recognise those UP shoes
hyau23 prototypes, i think they might be speed climbing shoes
How many of the words you use to describe a climb are official climbing terminology? How long until they are?
I guess quite a lot of the crack terms are in Pete's book, so they are vaguely official, haha. although niblets and Paddle hands, isn't in there. Paddle handing is called something else in there (or thinking about it maybe it's just descibed in the roof section but doesn't actually have a name) . but I think the Paddle Hand name is going to catch on. we're gona keep using it
DRINK every time u hear:
Thin hands
Nibblets
Desperate
Neil Harrison us or viewers?! Haha
@@WideBoyz I was imagining a drinking game for the viewers... however intoxicated crack climbing in cellar is a video I am highly keen to see haha
the amount of try hard in that cellar is insane.....
hopefully can bring you some progress videos in the near future :)
This is me on a slab crack
Let's go for that "more than 8c+"
z bajatasas 8c++ 👍
@@WideBoyz 5.9+++ in YDS?
@@EverettWilson haha yes spot on. desperate yosemite grovels...
A very complicated game of "the floor is lava"
Put some real lava down, that'll make us get our arse in gear and stop falling off. Or just shift a few more dangerous obstacles under the crack
@@WideBoyz carpet gripper strips as an incentive ?
David Hulme maybe we can put those inside the crack for extra skin toughness training
Man I really want one of those for Christmas😅. Quick question, how do you grade cracks? It's something I've never really managed to get my head around.
Josef Little one of what for Christmas?
Grading cracks, we just relate it to other cracks that have been established by others and our own first ascents. We relate crack grades to other cracks and not really other sport routes for example. Compare to a similar genre 👍
@@WideBoyz thanks for the tip. It's kind of hard to do that in the Czech Republic though. Everything is based off of how drunk the guy who did first ascent was at the time. I'd like to get a crack machine for Christmas, should've made that clearer sorry😃.
@@joseflittle4493 when we climbed in the Czech I remember I guy saying to me 'we go to the pub at the end of the day, not to celebrate the days climbing, but to celebrate we are still alive' haha
@@WideBoyz yes that basically covers it. I'm 16 though, so I don't really get that luxury 😂
Wow, that’s hard!
tricky but defo doable :) we'll keep you guys posted with an update video at some point
Wide Boyz Oh I don’t doubt for a minute that you guys will get it done. Best in the biz 💪
"it's not hard enough" :D
second session...I was seriously thinking that...then I ripped a massive flapper.
So the question is. How many handjam pull-ups can you do?
probably exactly the smae amount as we can do on a bar. not tried max pull ups on jams or bar for years though. 30ish maybe?! who knows i've no idea
So, this is what a Sheffield crack house looks like?
Just depends on the type of crack house you're visiting
If it's not 9a but still harder than 8c+, it might be 8d.
thats a great suggestion, haha. that me what it ends up being
still not sure if Tom lost some random bet with the hairdo or if its just pure stylistic choice.
mid life crisis
@@WideBoyz ok all makes sense now 😅
Anyone else check their phones at 4:33?
Ollie Barker i did when I was editing it, multiple times 😂