Excellent tutorial. I just shared with a buddy who picked up a new-to-him WR yesterday and needs to do the fork seals. Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I really appreciate hownl thorough you were in explaining the steps. A lot of people breeze over some of the important details.
Thanks for this. I’ve got a 2017 that started leaking and wasn’t sure if it was a repair I could diy, but this looks simple enough for a knuckle buster like myself.
This was super helpful, thank you. I have a 2010 WR250X and it just started leaking, I'm totally going to give it a shot thanks to your video. The bummer is they stopped selling the seal kit for some reason but the parts can still be bought individually.
@@skrabill thanks! The microfishe oem area for the 250x says not available, same with RevZilla, so I thought it was discontinued. After you mentioned it I just tried all bike specific aftermarket parts and it shows up there alongside the aftermarket kits.
According to the Service Manual, the fork oil type is 01, and stock oil level is 4.13" down from the top of the tube. I would suggest getting your hands on a Service Manual if you need more specific information.
Thanks for this video Steve ;) Before I start this job How much fork oil will i need to purchase (to put to that level)? Curious if your stock bushings looked worn to you after you saw them?
First on the bushings .... no, they didn't look worn, but I replaced them anyway since there they came in the kit and there is no reason to save them. As for oil, it takes a little more than a quart to do both forks, so I buy two quarts when I do the seals. You'll wind up with a little left over, but you'll need more than one quart.
Depends on how big the bottle is, lol. They should take about 21oz each, so that works out to be a little less than a quart for each fork. You're going to need two quart sized bottles to do both forks.
Not a very good one, unfortunately. You can tap the seal in place with a screwdriver and a hammer very gently, but you run the risk of damaging the seal.
Yes, get a piece of pvc that has the same internal diameter as your fork, cut it in half and use a hose clamp to hold it together. Honestly it’s probably about 1/10 the cost of the tool and 1/5 as good lol
@@rowannadon7668 yes, indeed. I actually just did that with a piece of PVC pipe, and it worked. What I had a bit of trouble with, was not having a good amount of surface to hammer on. I used a rubber mallet, of course :) So, the big advantage of the Motion Pro tool is not requiring hammering with a mallet. But, that tool costs approx $60 in my country and I would use that once per year, maybe less frequent even.
@@kevinroberts361 Thanks, Kevin. After some sweating and cursing, I bought a Motion Pro seal driver in the end :) It works like a charm. No regrets for the money spent.
@@skrabill Thanks. While doing this job, are there any additional parts I should get while its disassembled. A review for this kit said it didn't include wipers or sliders(dont remember exactly). But I'm not sure what he meant by that.
@@anonymous_friendIf you buy the OEM Fork Seal Kit W003B-00-00 EVERYTHING is included. Wipers, seals, slides, etc. The only thing you'll need to buy extra is Fork Oil. Note that the snap ring is not included in the kit, so you'll want to be careful removing it so it can be re-used.
If I were just to do a fork oil change at which part of this video would I stop to add oil? would I still need to go as deep as removing the seals etc just for an oil change?
You would stop as soon as you got the cap off. I'd loosen the cap, pull the forks, remove the cap, remove the spring, then dump them upside down, cycle them a few times to get as much old oil out as possible, then collapse and fill per the video. Pulling the spring out would be as far as you'd go.
The allen bolt at the bottom holds the center piece in place (with the plastic on it). It doesn't hold the two tubes together. I didn't remove the center section, so I didn't mess with the allen bolt. Once you remove the dust cap and the cir-clip, the two tubes will come apart as shown in the video.
Excellent tutorial. I just shared with a buddy who picked up a new-to-him WR yesterday and needs to do the fork seals. Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I really appreciate hownl thorough you were in explaining the steps. A lot of people breeze over some of the important details.
Thanks for this. I’ve got a 2017 that started leaking and wasn’t sure if it was a repair I could diy, but this looks simple enough for a knuckle buster like myself.
This was super helpful, thank you. I have a 2010 WR250X and it just started leaking, I'm totally going to give it a shot thanks to your video. The bummer is they stopped selling the seal kit for some reason but the parts can still be bought individually.
The fork seal kit is still available. I just checked on Rockymountain and they have plenty of them in stock.
@@skrabill thanks! The microfishe oem area for the 250x says not available, same with RevZilla, so I thought it was discontinued. After you mentioned it I just tried all bike specific aftermarket parts and it shows up there alongside the aftermarket kits.
Thank you so much for this video. It was amazing to follow along with.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Steve, I just got finished w my fork seals on my WR 250R, super easy thanks to you
Awesome video! Just replaced the seals on both of my forks successfully. Thanks!
You saved my day sir! big thank you and cheers from Poland
Covered the necessary items and how to’s. Thanks.
Nice job Steve. I'll be doing the same job in the next couple months. Great to see the guts before I get in there.
Too many wheelies, and a group ride this weekend, thanks for the info!!!
Great video! Looking forward to watching more of your videos regarding the wr250r!
Thanks, great video, doing mine today and a little peek before I tore in was great!
Good video. I need the oil weight and level. I just picked up an 08 that has leaking forks. Will be doing this as soon as the parts get here.
According to the Service Manual, the fork oil type is 01, and stock oil level is 4.13" down from the top of the tube. I would suggest getting your hands on a Service Manual if you need more specific information.
Thanks for the vid mine just started leaking after removing it from winter storage
Finally, a year later I'm going to change my seals. So thankful your video is still up! Did you say the oil level was 4-1/8" from the top?
Thanks for the vid Steve, will be doing this soon so it will come in very handy! Great job! Will have to get thode special tools! Haha
Thanks for this video Steve ;)
Before I start this job
How much fork oil will i need to purchase (to put to that level)?
Curious if your stock bushings looked worn to you after you saw them?
First on the bushings .... no, they didn't look worn, but I replaced them anyway since there they came in the kit and there is no reason to save them. As for oil, it takes a little more than a quart to do both forks, so I buy two quarts when I do the seals. You'll wind up with a little left over, but you'll need more than one quart.
Very thorough... Much appreciated. Is one bottle of fork oil enough for both forks?
Depends on how big the bottle is, lol. They should take about 21oz each, so that works out to be a little less than a quart for each fork. You're going to need two quart sized bottles to do both forks.
Thanks, Steve. I'll do the same work on my WR250F. Your video is much appreciated. Is there any good alternative to that seal driver tool?
Not a very good one, unfortunately. You can tap the seal in place with a screwdriver and a hammer very gently, but you run the risk of damaging the seal.
Yes, get a piece of pvc that has the same internal diameter as your fork, cut it in half and use a hose clamp to hold it together. Honestly it’s probably about 1/10 the cost of the tool and 1/5 as good lol
@@rowannadon7668 yes, indeed. I actually just did that with a piece of PVC pipe, and it worked. What I had a bit of trouble with, was not having a good amount of surface to hammer on. I used a rubber mallet, of course :) So, the big advantage of the Motion Pro tool is not requiring hammering with a mallet. But, that tool costs approx $60 in my country and I would use that once per year, maybe less frequent even.
@@tiberiulaurian7408 Rocky Mtn has a Tusk seal driver for 45 dollars. I got one.
@@kevinroberts361 Thanks, Kevin. After some sweating and cursing, I bought a Motion Pro seal driver in the end :) It works like a charm. No regrets for the money spent.
Thank you, good job
Thanks for the video. Is the oem fork seal kit for one tube or both? Do I need to buy two seal kits? Thanks
The kit comes with everything you need to do both forks.
@@skrabill Thanks. While doing this job, are there any additional parts I should get while its disassembled. A review for this kit said it didn't include wipers or sliders(dont remember exactly). But I'm not sure what he meant by that.
@@anonymous_friendIf you buy the OEM Fork Seal Kit W003B-00-00 EVERYTHING is included. Wipers, seals, slides, etc. The only thing you'll need to buy extra is Fork Oil. Note that the snap ring is not included in the kit, so you'll want to be careful removing it so it can be re-used.
Thank you!
Dude great video. Turn the AC on you sweating like a dog lol
It's Oklahoma in the summer. Can't do anything about it, lol.
If I were just to do a fork oil change at which part of this video would I stop to add oil? would I still need to go as deep as removing the seals etc just for an oil change?
You would stop as soon as you got the cap off. I'd loosen the cap, pull the forks, remove the cap, remove the spring, then dump them upside down, cycle them a few times to get as much old oil out as possible, then collapse and fill per the video. Pulling the spring out would be as far as you'd go.
Does the dampening rod always fully retract? Im doing my forks and noticed one not retracting fully while the other comes down completely
If one of them is sticking, it may be a good idea to take it to a suspension professional. Something isn't right. It's either gunked up or bent.
Could you drop a link for that seal driver??? the 46mm Tusk one from Amazon doesnt work???
Really? Mine is a Motion Pro 08-0492 which is a 46-47mm.
www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0492-46mm-Ringer/dp/B009D29ADY
how did you separate the two tubes without undoing the 14mm allen key bolts at the lower end ?
The allen bolt at the bottom holds the center piece in place (with the plastic on it). It doesn't hold the two tubes together. I didn't remove the center section, so I didn't mess with the allen bolt. Once you remove the dust cap and the cir-clip, the two tubes will come apart as shown in the video.
Ditemi voi cosa devo fare sono curioso se coivate a pallone