Hi Ade, Those connectors are quite easy to disassemble, each pin is kept in by a plastic clip in the connector body, which you can lift a bit, using a sewing pin or needle, to release the pin inside. It normally only needs to be lifted a tiny bit to release the pin.
hI Ade. It is not just the parts you have made in this video. The whole series has been about attention to detail. Great work. I am just starting a home design Hit & miss engine. Only published part 1 so far. Taken a leaf from your book. Slowly does it & quality 1st. Regards. Steve.
Hi Ade, you could always cut a slot in the base plate in line with and underneath the support bracket for the plug to pass hrough, then when reassembled the bracket would cover the slot.
Ade, might you not have room for the timing wheel and hall sensors in board between the drive belt and the cam?? It might look a lot better there and let you hide the wires much more. Just my two punneth. 🤔
Hi Ade. Each man to his own, but you could have drilled the tapping holes, clearance holes for the bolts and tapped the holes in one operation. Would have saved a bit of time and guaranteed exact alignment for each of the holes. I know because I have misread the position of a hole on a PCD and bollocked the part up. Best wishes mate, am loving the series.
Ade the plastic plug you have for your ignition wire you can lift the plastic tabs with a small screw driver just remember what order your wires came out of the plug
Re: The cylinder oiler - The screw is for metering the oil flow (can also use it for shutting the oil off when the engine is stopped). If you look carefully at the plans, there is a 0.010" flat filed on the side of the screw to allow the oil to flow past the threads (Sheet 14, top row, middle view). Looking forward to the first run 🙂
Hi ADE. Just wondering if you could mill a slot under the outer bearing that the sensor plug could it through and then the outer bearing support would cover the hole, apart from the small outlet for the wire?
Should be able to pull those pins out of the plug by lifting the little plastic tags you can see in there. Use a small sharp point of say a model knife. As in this video: ruclips.net/video/4Ri8i5ITI8o/видео.html
![Metal Lathe [Restoration] - 1930s RANDA](/img/1.gif)
Some real quality machining Ade. Great attention to detail. Looking good. Cheers Nobby
Hi Ade, Those connectors are quite easy to disassemble, each pin is kept in by a plastic clip in the connector body, which you can lift a bit, using a sewing pin or needle, to release the pin inside. It normally only needs to be lifted a tiny bit to release the pin.
Coming along nicely. Love the little bit of Cymraeg at the end. Diolch un fawr i chi hefyd. Keep the videos coming, I may try and copy you one day!
Great video Ade.
good video ADES
Great job Ade thanks for posting
nice job Ade
Thanks ADE
Gday Ade, I really like the look of the fuel tank, getting closer now the end now mate, cheers
hI Ade. It is not just the parts you have made in this video. The whole series has been about attention to detail. Great work. I am just starting a home design Hit & miss engine. Only published part 1 so far. Taken a leaf from your book. Slowly does it & quality 1st.
Regards.
Steve.
Hi Ade, you could always cut a slot in the base plate in line with and underneath the support bracket for the plug to pass hrough, then when reassembled the bracket would cover the slot.
Thanks Ade
Well done, I really like the fuel tank design. Thanks for your time in all you do to make these videos.
You can remove the pins from the molex connector it’s fairly simple to do just need the right tool
If you lift slitly the tabs on the side of the plug the pins pull out vary easy
Ade, might you not have room for the timing wheel and hall sensors in board between the drive belt and the cam?? It might look a lot better there and let you hide the wires much more.
Just my two punneth. 🤔
Hi There, Ades, those pins come out very easily just gently lift the plastic tab and slide the pin out.
Looking good, very clever, Well done Ade.
Hi Ade. Each man to his own, but you could have drilled the tapping holes, clearance holes for the bolts and tapped the holes in one operation. Would have saved a bit of time and guaranteed exact alignment for each of the holes. I know because I have misread the position of a hole on a PCD and bollocked the part up. Best wishes mate, am loving the series.
Ade the plastic plug you have for your ignition wire you can lift the plastic tabs with a small screw driver just remember what order your wires came out of the plug
Re: The cylinder oiler - The screw is for metering the oil flow (can also use it for shutting the oil off when the engine is stopped). If you look carefully at the plans, there is a 0.010" flat filed on the side of the screw to allow the oil to flow past the threads (Sheet 14, top row, middle view).
Looking forward to the first run 🙂
Ahh. now I get it . Thanks for that . Cheers Ade.
Good job buddy
Hi ADE. Just wondering if you could mill a slot under the outer bearing that the sensor plug could it through and then the outer bearing support would cover the hole, apart from the small outlet for the wire?
Should be able to pull those pins out of the plug by lifting the little plastic tags you can see in there. Use a small sharp point of say a model knife.
As in this video: ruclips.net/video/4Ri8i5ITI8o/видео.html
Hi Ade, when you drilled the fuel tank lid bolt holes did you let the DRO work it out or calculator and Zeus book?.
Just used Zeus book and dro calculator . as got lazy with DRO plotting .