FIXED 100%! Sharp RP-107C (AKA RP-117) Turntable-Both-Sides-Play Linear-Tracking (+Clairtone 7979)
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Last year my friend gave me this Sharp RP-107C Both-sides-play Linear Tracking turntable. SOME REPAIR INFO BELOW.
He didn't get around to fixing it, so he let me have it. I replaced both belts (platter and tone-arm drive), glued the plastic loading gear, glued a broken drawer-open micro-switch, and it now works perfectly and sounds great!
By the way, get a load of my super RARE bin-find, a HUGE Clairtone 7979 boombox. Cousin the the Conian 7980, it just sounds great!
Both needles are still good, just amazing watching it seek both sides of the record, what a device. Sometimes it mis-counts the tracks and missed the last one, it did that twice in my video probably due to the bright light, and me not setting the seek sensitivity switch correctly.
SEE 3 LINKS BELOW for the Owner's and Service manuals, and some repair tips and info by Soundbug. He's a real expert. He tells you the CORRECT size for the two required belts (I started out buying the too-small ones):
===== Owner's and Service
www.vinylengin...
===== Repair Info posting by Soundbug:
www.vinylengin...
===== Tune-up Info posting by Soundbug:
www.vinylengin...
VinylEngine (and HiFiEngine) are two GREAT sites, tons of manuals there for FREE download, well-worth the trouble to signup. I'm registered as Bellarmine at both sites....:o):
Some people talk about it making a 'dunk' sound out of the speakers while playing, as if something is hitting the tonearms. Some say it is the clamp ring that holds the record down on the platter - I can't confirm yet. Mine started doing it, so I watched the mechanism and it does it every time the tone-arm carriages move over a smidgen during playing. Perhaps a tad of gear-train backlash, or more likely lack of grease on the runners/rollers/gears.
Also, be sure to get the FBM 21.4 platter belt (21.4"), and SBM 3.6 arm belt (3.6"). Some people sell a 20" platter belt, it is too tight! I bought both so I know.....:o)
Thanks for watching!
Terrific analysis and sort out of common problems. I've had mine since new in 1986 and had it in for numerous repairs with diminishing success. I'll try inspecting the belts once more as mine plays for moments then stops. Howdy from Big D!
Thanks for the compliments Kenwha, appreciate it!. Wow, owned since new, that is pretty rare for this vintage equipment. Yes, I would definitely check the belts, especially the tone arm carriage belt. Seems to be a common failure, mine did the same as yours when I got it. Tone-arm belt was stretched, replaced it and works perfect. You can just use an elastic to confirm it works, then look in my description for the proper belt size. Don't forget the 'hook-tool', indispensable for belt routing....:o)
FYI, here's what is happening: When you press play, the tone-arm sets down on the record and starts playing. Then after about 30 secs, the carriage has to move the tone-arm over so the tone-arm remains straight - it does this right across the record. It goes to move the carriage, the old belt slips, the electronics then detect the carriage is not moving, so it picks up the tone-arm and shuts down.
TRY THIS: Load a record, then lift and hold up the grey plastic front door and look inside. Now press and hold the FWD or CUE button a few times, and see if you can move the tone arm across the record. If you hear a motor buzz but the tone-arm doesn't move, you've got a bad carriage belt.
If you have any questions let me know anytime. Cheers Kenwha!~ Bellarmine
Where is the speed adjustment screw located?
Hi there, thanks for the question. If I recall it's located on the Right side of the drawer, open it first. You probably have to remove a black thin plastic shield to see them (couple screws), they're two small yellow-topped potentiometers. I think you adjust the 33 first then the 45, maybe vice-versa, one affects the other a bit, so just go back and forth until you get it right. See the service and owner's manuals at VinylEngine in my video description. They also have printable strobe disks for checking the speed. Let me know if you need more help, Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hello, Im pretty late to this video to be asking questions but I recently purchased a non-working 117 and was able to replace the platter belt and the loading tray gear. As of right now the loading mechanism works fine and all the buttons seem to be responsive. However, the existing problem right now is that when pressing play, the tray closes and the clamp goes down on the record but the tonearms do nothing. Pressing the cue button also does nothing for me. I was wondering if you could offer any advice because I am stumped. Im pretty sure its an electrical problem but I havent seen anything suspicious.
Hi Codeco, no problem thanks for your question, I'll do my best to help.
First off, have you checked / replaced the carriage belt, the one that moves the tone arms back and forth? You should be able to use the buttons to move the tone arm across the platter, whether there's a record loaded or not.
TRY THIS: Lift and hold up the grey plastic front door and look inside (no record needed, might need a flashlight). Now press the FWD button once, and see if the tone arm moves in about an inch, and the platter starts spinning. You should then be able to hold the FWD or REV buttons to move the tonearm back-and-forth, and then press CUE to drop it down (don't worry about the needle it won't get damaged).
If while you're doing this, you hear a motor buzz but the tone-arms don't move, you've got a bad carriage belt.
Hope this helps Codeco, do let me know if I can further assist. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Hello, thanks for the quick response. The carriage belt for the tonearm mechanism seems to be intact. As for your suggestion, it was unsuccessful. When pressing FWD/RWD/CUE/PLAY I hear and see everything with the loading tray and clamp but nothing happening with the tonearms. What is strange though is when I unplug the connecters at CNP107 and CNP102 (circuitboard directly underneath Side A tonearm) I can then hear the buzzing coming from that motor. The only thing I can really think of is that mechanism in the back right of the system which I believe is what is supposed to actually move the arms and that SUCKS. If you could narrow anything else down I would appreciate it, thanks.
@@codeco3456 Hi Codeco, sorry to hear that, let's see if I can dig up anything else. I assume you have both the owner's and service manuals from Vinyl Engine?
Important, when you press any of the buttons, does the platter start to spin or not?
Also, you say you can hear the motor 'buzz' when you unplug the wires, do the tone arms move when it runs? (they should).
If the tone arm motor runs the tone arms should move back and forth.
What should happen, is after closing the drawer, you press FWD, the platter starts to spin, the tone arm motor runs, tone arm moves in an inch or two. Then you press CUE, you hear a 'click' and it drops down.
Finally, if you can get the arm to drop down, if you nudge it gently inwards, the carriage will move to re-center it. That is how it tracks across the record.
Hope this helps, let me know........:o) Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Well I do have the service manual but not the owners manual. And no, the tonearms do not move when the motor buzzes in the back. Unfortunately, the platter also does not spin when pressing the FWD/RWD buttons. So far the only thing that still works is the loading tray and track selection interface :(
@@codeco3456 Hi Codeco,
Sorry to hear that. At this point 3 things stand out ot me:
-1-If the motor at the back runs, the tone arms should move (unless it is spinning the wrong way). If they don't move I suspect a mechanical / belt problem.
-2-Even if the tone arms don't move, the platter should start spinnning when you press PLAY or FWD.
-3-Since as you say, apparently 'nothing' is working except the loading drawer, I suspect there might be a loading fault - maybe the switch that senses the drawer is closed is broken / not working.
Speaking of which, I just remembered that the drawer closed sensor switch gave me trouble on my own unit. After gluing my gear and reassembling the drawer, I *broke* my microswitch and had to glue it! The little switch tab got caught the wrong way and snapped off. I had to make a small strip of flexible plastic out of a yogurt tub and glue the switch tab back on with it, still working fine now.
Again hope this helps Codeco, good talking with you. If you want, my real email is my username without the 33, followed by rogers and com. Best wishes!~ Bellarmine
Nice job...thanks for the great tips...
You're welcome DaySpring, glad it was helpful! Any questions let me know. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hello friend, I have a Sharp RP 117, It worked perfectly, but it started to get addictive, just play the first track (or a piece of the 1st) and go back to the beginning ...
Do you know what I should do?
Hi, thanks for the question! Here is a pile of info. To start with I would say the small belt that moves the tone-arms across the record is worn out/broken. My belt was stretched when I got it, and it did something similar - plays for about 30secs, then shuts down.
What is happening, is when you press play, the tone-arm sets down on the record and starts playing. Than after about 30 secs, the carriage has to move the tone-arm over so the tone-arm remains straight - it does this right across the record. It goes to move the carriage, the old belt slips, the electronics then detect the carriage is not moving, so it picks up the tone-arm and shuts down.
Try this: Load a record, then lift and hold up the grey plastic
front door to see inside. Now press and hold the FWD or CUE button a few times, and see if you can move the tone arm across the record. If you hear a motor buzz but the tone-arm doesn't move, you've got a bad belt.
You can probably get away with a good quality elastic band for the time being if you want to try it out first.
See these 3 links below: 1st one is Owner's and Service manuals, 2nd & 3rd are two postings by Soundbug - he's a real expert. He also tells you the CORRECT size for the two required belts (I started out buying the too-small ones). VinylEngine (and HiFiEngine) are two GREAT sites, tons of manuals there for FREE download, well-worth the trouble to signup. I'm registered as Bellarmine at both sites....:o):
www.vinylengine.com/library/sharp-optonica/rp-117.shtml
www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=93095&p=943747#p781577
www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?t=39438#p475315
Let me know if you would like any more help, I may have a few more ideas. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
The Young and the Restless!!!!
Nice turntable!
Thanka for your video for RP 107. I have one question for my currrnt problem of RP107 as below. Whatever song you play, it will be played for a minute and then it will be back to its original position. please advise me if you know. Thanks from Sunny
Hi Sun Lee, thanks for the question! Here is a pile of info I send to people having this problem. To start with I would say the small belt that moves the tone-arm(s) across the record is worn out/broken. My belt was stretched when I got it, and it did something similar - plays for about 30secs, then shuts down.
What is happening, is when you press play, the tone-arm sets down on the record and starts playing. Then after about 30 secs, the carriage has to move the tone-arm over so the tone-arm remains straight - it does this right across the record. It goes to move the carriage, the old belt slips, the electronics then detect the carriage is not moving, so it picks up the tone-arm and shuts down.
TRY THIS: Load a record, then lift and hold up the grey plastic front door and look inside. Now press and hold the FWD or CUE button a few times, and see if you can move the tone arm across the record. If you hear a motor buzz but the tone-arm doesn't move, you've got a bad belt.
You can probably get away with a good quality elastic band for the time being if you want to try it out first.
See these 3 links below: 1st one is Owner's and Service manuals, 2nd & 3rd are two postings by Soundbug - he's a real expert. He also tells you the CORRECT size for the two required belts (I started out buying the too-small ones). VinylEngine (and HiFiEngine) are two GREAT sites, tons of manuals there for FREE download, well-worth the trouble to signup. I'm registered as Bellarmine at both sites....:o):
www.vinylengine.com/library/sharp-optonica/rp-117.shtml
www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=93095&p=943747#p781577
www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?t=39438#p475315
LET ME KNOW if you would like any more help Sun Lee, I may have a few more ideas. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Thanks for your kindly advise. I will try for your guideance. Best regards to you from Sunny Lee(Seoul Korea)
You're welcome Sunny Lee, do let me know how it goes or if you need any further advice. Best regards from Ontario Canada....:o) Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33Case of A side, I had found in the arm starting point position, Now normal operation is performed after manufacturing the replacement of the relevant accessory spring. It seems to be same problem regarding to B side but does not working .It still stops after 1 minute of playing. I don't know how to setting location criteria of the starting point. Thanks
Best regards to you Sunny Lee
Hi Sun Lee, I'll try and help some more, but I"m not sure if I understand you exactly.....:o) Are you saying you replaced the rubber belt that moves BOTH arms, and now one works but not the other?
Again, TRY THIS:
- Turn on the RP-107,
- Remove the record/LP,
- Close the drawer,
- HOLD UP the plastic door flap so you can see the 2 arms,
- PRESS the FWD button a few times, do BOTH arms move?
Hope this helps, let me know what else I can do Sun Lee! Bellarmine
Would be nice if it actually showed some of the repair work. It's nice that it plays but really isn't helpful.
Thanks for your comment. I actually didn't think of filming my repair work, as replacing the belts is pretty straight-forward, and the loading gear I should have replaced rather than just gluing it. However if you have any questions about the turntable MRL please feel free to drop me a line anytime. You will also find two very good links in my description that give a whole slew of tips, and the owner's and service manuals for free. I think there is also another video on RUclips that shows replacing the belt - you have to remove the covers and shields around the platter, and having a long hook tool is indispensable. Cheers! Bellarmine
This is rare on Ebay!!
And Expensive.....:o) Needed some work, my friend gave it to me several years back, guess I have a good electronics friend. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for the comment CPWolf. Cheers!~ Bellarmine