I can't tell you how appreciative I am of all these videos you're making. I'm tooling up to start building my first acoustic, and I'm all about the diy tools! I hope your channel explodes with subscribers. Keep it up!
Nice build. That tip on using floor sander disc's instead of a "specially made for luthiers" sanding disc at probably twice the cost is gold. Not sure how much you plan to be using this but you may want to put in some sort of sleeves in the MDF where the rods go thru. Gonna be a lot of in and out as well as wobble and the file action of that all thread. Those hole will go wonky pretty fast.
I'll definitely be adding to this jig. I'm planning to double up on the thickness and probably adjust the length of the threaded rod too. Its a work in progress at the moment.
That's genius how you just turn it over and it's ready to rock. Very clever. New to your channel. Subscribed for the acoustic building series and I've seen a fair few great ideas already. Well done. Thinking out the box. Keep up the great work matey!
If there's a rock festival near to you, turn up after the event and ask if there's any tents being thrown away. The fibre glass poles can be cut to length and used as go bars,all you have to do is put a rubber end on it. Stewmac sell 10 of fibre glass go bars for £54 ($70) you'll probably will need 20 so total cost £108 ($140) so quite a saving! They are more flexible then women sticks.
A couple tips : .1 you shouldn't have to contour sand your neck block to the shape of the mold . Because your mold should be absolutely flat right there in the area that your block is supposed to be . Because the first thing you do when you attach the neck is to sand the outer part absolutely flat and perpendicular to your centerline. This is critical so that your neck will fit tight against the body while maintaining the centerline.. also helps in routering out the V-block. So actually sanding it to the contour makes it so you have to sand it even thinner .. ask me how I know..lol 2. I think your go-bars might be a few thousands too thick. And make some shorter ones because as you get away from the middle of the deck the space is shorter . Also helps to have the top plate with the radius facing up so you don't have as much of a variance of bending on your Go-bars.
I think you might want to shorten the lengths of the all thread as well it would also make if a bit more ridge. You also mentioned in your live stream that you wanted to double up on the thickness of the MDF which will help as well. It is plenty high enough. Maybe take off 10" to 12" inches
I agree that it could be shorter. Like this whole process, it's a learning experience for me. The all thread will be easy to adjust the height. I will be getting some material to make it thicker as well. We'll see how this works.
@@borgonianevolution The Flexible sticks would just be adjusted in lengths to match the shorter distance between the top and bottom. Also in the long run the fiberglass rods he mentioned that he may switch to would also be a better option providing a more consistent pressure I believe.
I can't tell you how appreciative I am of all these videos you're making. I'm tooling up to start building my first acoustic, and I'm all about the diy tools! I hope your channel explodes with subscribers. Keep it up!
Thanks! Spread the word. Good luck on your build. It's an amazing project. I'm planning to start my 2nd very soon.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to make this content. Really good stuff.
Nice build. That tip on using floor sander disc's instead of a "specially made for luthiers" sanding disc at probably twice the cost is gold. Not sure how much you plan to be using this but you may want to put in some sort of sleeves in the MDF where the rods go thru. Gonna be a lot of in and out as well as wobble and the file action of that all thread. Those hole will go wonky pretty fast.
I'll definitely be adding to this jig. I'm planning to double up on the thickness and probably adjust the length of the threaded rod too. Its a work in progress at the moment.
That's genius how you just turn it over and it's ready to rock. Very clever. New to your channel. Subscribed for the acoustic building series and I've seen a fair few great ideas already. Well done. Thinking out the box. Keep up the great work matey!
If there's a rock festival near to you, turn up after the event and ask if there's any tents being thrown away. The fibre glass poles can be cut to length and used as go bars,all you have to do is put a rubber end on it. Stewmac sell 10 of fibre glass go bars for £54 ($70) you'll probably will need 20 so total cost £108 ($140) so quite a saving! They are more flexible then women sticks.
nice Jeff, Peace and Progress!
Great stuff Jeff!
Thanks man!
looking good
Nice!
A couple tips :
.1 you shouldn't have to contour sand your neck block to the shape of the mold . Because your mold should be absolutely flat right there in the area that your block is supposed to be . Because the first thing you do when you attach the neck is to sand the outer part absolutely flat and perpendicular to your centerline. This is critical so that your neck will fit tight against the body while maintaining the centerline.. also helps in routering out the V-block.
So actually sanding it to the contour makes it so you have to sand it even thinner .. ask me how I know..lol
2. I think your go-bars might be a few thousands too thick. And make some shorter ones because as you get away from the middle of the deck the space is shorter . Also helps to have the top plate with the radius facing up so you don't have as much of a variance of bending on your Go-bars.
💥💥💥💥
I think you might want to shorten the lengths of the all thread as well it would also make if a bit more ridge. You also mentioned in your live stream that you wanted to double up on the thickness of the MDF which will help as well. It is plenty high enough. Maybe take off 10" to 12" inches
I agree that it could be shorter. Like this whole process, it's a learning experience for me. The all thread will be easy to adjust the height. I will be getting some material to make it thicker as well. We'll see how this works.
Wouldn't the shorter height just make it harder to bend the flexy stix into place to hold the braces during glue ups?
@@borgonianevolution The Flexible sticks would just be adjusted in lengths to match the shorter distance between the top and bottom. Also in the long run the fiberglass rods he mentioned that he may switch to would also be a better option providing a more consistent pressure I believe.
Great video. !!!
Sorry typo meant wooden sticks!
What was the sand paper size?
How would cut your curve if you didn't have a cnc?
This isn't my video but this is how I'd do it if I didn't have a cnc. ruclips.net/video/thZIo_RdSdU/видео.html
Thanks for getting back with me and the feed. Your video's are awesome. I'm sure I will be ask more questions in the future
What size may I ask are the MDF sheets?
I made these 24x24" and 3/4" thick.
@@homebuiltshop Hey thanks for getting back to me
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯👍❤️
Is that a OneFinity CNC machine?
Yes it is. It worked great.