Tomorrow I can pick up my engine block from the machine shop. I hope you will stay one step ahead of me so I will make no mistakes in putting this engine back together. Keep them vids coming... Thanks!! Arjan from the Netherlands
Good job and it always pays to be thorough when you are spending your own hard earned money on any machine work / custom mods or builds, and or just re-building your own engine etc, a critical small step like this can save major catastrophe / failure down the road, and if the clearances are wrong / You could be starving the bearings of oil / harsh metal on metal, and your rebuild will be very short lived. Great job by the video host, and I enjoyed watching. Keep up the Great work!
Good job Dale and great explanation on using Plastigage . You would be surprised on how many people don't use it , they just trust the machine shops work . I have seen many mistakes by machine shops with clearance problems .
Another thing to remember is that metric plastigage exists because you will need it in many more modern engines. There is plastigage made so that the numbers are not just conversions of inches, rather the numbers are nice even metric numbers. 1:50 in addition, it will spread around the plastigage, giving you an incorrect measurement. 4:35 or if the clearance is too wide, there will not be enough oil pressure.
You never ever put the crank in dry. You put a thin micron layer of oil on the bearing and on the cap bearing. Then place the plastigauge on the crank. This dose 3 things 1 protects the crank and bearing from any friction damage 2 gives you a more accurate reading with a total clearance and 3 makes it easier to clean the plastigauge compound off the crank.
I prefer my micrometers and dial bore gauge. I have seen too many people over the years get false readings on connecting rods, simply by the way they remove the rod cap.
Hey Dale. Building my 98 TJ 4.0 right now. I've enjoyed all your videos. Totally helpful! I'm a little confused about the process of using plastigauge to check rod bearing clearances. Do you check the ring gaps, install the pistons & then do the plastigauge? how do you rotate the crank, without lube, to do the check??? Thanks! Steve
Dale, These videos have been absolutely fantastic. Soon I will being a 4.2 rebuild. What book or source did you reference for the oil clearance measurement? I have a Haynes manual and it’s quite ambiguous. TIA Mike
Main bearing in 4.0s dont really wear our normally because there are so many of them. The rod bearings are what would far more often need to be plastigaged.
Hi Dale! I understand what you explaining bout clearance. I have a 2005 Chevy equinox with 3.4 engine, i did some research about the clearance i need but i really dont understand the numbers. Is a bit complicated for me. Can you help me and tell me what color platigauge i need please. Thank you a lot.
I'm replying in case you still don't have a answer to your question. You can get a detailed book from part stores or on line for your car or truck that has the rebuild information in it. Just find the clearances it calls for and then buy a plastic gauge that matches what it is calling for.
what if the plastigage are different in size ? how will i know if there is something wrong with the crank shaft ? My motor was rebuilt, and #4 bearing was tight, and would not move. what do i do then ?.
Hey, I was just curious and am hoping you can advise me, but I am looking to replace my main bearings and possibly rod bearings in my CJ5 258 (1979). Can I do that with the engine still in the Jeep? I just did an engine overhaul besides - ALL new gaskets top end and bottom end, including rear main and front main through timing cover, so I'm going to drop the oil pan again and replace the bearings - engine was slightly oil starved and I dont want any future issues. Any advice/suggestions would seriously be appreciated. Thanks!
"Guys, don't move DRY metal on metal. it will scratch". All through the video "Don't move dry on dry metal. VERY end he wipes off the gauge while the cranks still on the block :P:P:P:P. It will be fine though i'm just playin.
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Tomorrow I can pick up my engine block from the machine shop. I hope you will stay one step ahead of me so I will make no mistakes in putting this engine back together. Keep them vids coming... Thanks!! Arjan from the Netherlands
+Arjan Wilhelm Very cool. You can learn from my mistakes. Haha! 😂
@@JeepSolid Hi Dale, It's Arjan again! Question, did you place the rear main seals to do this test? Thanks a lot. Greetings from Holland
@@jbhk7977 Haha, hoi John! Ik woon in Lelystad. Je kunt mijn revisie volgen op het Nederlandse Jeep forum. Topic heet Arjan's Cherokee.
Nope. Didn't place the rear main seal for the test.
Good job and it always pays to be thorough when you are spending your own hard earned money on any machine work / custom mods or builds, and or just re-building your own engine etc, a critical small step like this can save major catastrophe / failure down the road, and if the clearances are wrong / You could be starving the bearings of oil / harsh metal on metal, and your rebuild will be very short lived. Great job by the video host, and I enjoyed watching. Keep up the Great work!
thx for this clear explanation of plasigage :) (i'm rebuilding a 2.25D land rover engine from the mid 1980's)
Good job Dale and great explanation on using Plastigage . You would be surprised on how many people don't use it , they just trust the machine shops work . I have seen many mistakes by machine shops with clearance problems .
Yeah, it's a good thing to check. Pretty easy
Another thing to remember is that metric plastigage exists because you will need it in many more modern engines. There is plastigage made so that the numbers are not just conversions of inches, rather the numbers are nice even metric numbers.
1:50 in addition, it will spread around the plastigage, giving you an incorrect measurement.
4:35 or if the clearance is too wide, there will not be enough oil pressure.
Good tips. Thank you!
thanks for showing me how to use a plastigage. didnt know how to use it but i know how now. thank you
You never ever put the crank in dry. You put a thin micron layer of oil on the bearing and on the cap bearing. Then place the plastigauge on the crank. This dose 3 things 1 protects the crank and bearing from any friction damage 2 gives you a more accurate reading with a total clearance and 3 makes it easier to clean the plastigauge compound off the crank.
finally someone explains it so even I can understand!!!
I prefer my micrometers and dial bore gauge. I have seen too many people over the years get false readings on connecting rods, simply by the way they remove the rod cap.
red rags= lint fibers however, the content of this video was the main driver so thumbs up
Learn something new every time! Never heard of this, makes perfect sense. Definitely going to add to things to do for future engine rebuild! :D
Cool! It's pretty easy and important to check.
This is awesome. I love your videos!
Great! Thank you!
Great video.
Im just about to plastigage my LT1.
Woupd this need doing if crank etc not been touched in a motircycke engine?
Like the helper cat
Is there a need to check the clearance with plasti-gauge on the main bearings on the block?
Hey Dale. Building my 98 TJ 4.0 right now. I've enjoyed all your videos. Totally helpful! I'm a little confused about the process of using plastigauge to check rod bearing clearances. Do you check the ring gaps, install the pistons & then do the plastigauge? how do you rotate the crank, without lube, to do the check??? Thanks! Steve
Dale,
These videos have been absolutely fantastic. Soon I will being a 4.2 rebuild. What book or source did you reference for the oil clearance measurement? I have a Haynes manual and it’s quite ambiguous. TIA
Mike
I also had a ‘jeep 4.0 Engine. How to rebuild and modify’ book. You can find online. Used as a reference as well 👍
When are you going to have this thing running? Taking forever getting that engine back together!
Get on it young man! lol
Oh man, yeah. I know. Wish I had more time to spend on it, but I have another full time job and life stuff. Haha.
Well none, look forward to the next video... Like your coffee cup, where can I get one..Lol
Haha. Thanks. Sometimes need a strong cup of coffee. I think it's from the Cars movie.
Yes what if the plastigage are different from another ? good question.
Main bearing in 4.0s dont really wear our normally because there are so many of them. The rod bearings are what would far more often need to be plastigaged.
great video .great man
Thanks for the video. How do you clean the plastigage off of the bearing?
I may be wrong but didn't think you need to
Coming together well.
Thanks!
What do you do if you are too tight or too loose? Have to get modified bearings?
Hi Dale!
I understand what you explaining bout clearance.
I have a 2005 Chevy equinox with 3.4 engine, i did some research about the clearance i need but i really dont understand the numbers.
Is a bit complicated for me.
Can you help me and tell me what color platigauge i need please.
Thank you a lot.
I'm replying in case you still don't have a answer to your question. You can get a detailed book from part stores or on line for your car or truck that has the rebuild information in it. Just find the clearances it calls for and then buy a plastic gauge that matches what it is calling for.
what if the plastigage are different in size ? how will i know if there is something wrong with the crank shaft ? My motor was rebuilt, and #4 bearing was tight, and would not move. what do i do then ?.
what if the gage size is different then one another ?
Thanks for this awesome video. I have a question regarding my 345 Hemi. Where can I find the proper clearance needed so I know what to measure?
Should have shown more of the measuring.
Hey, I was just curious and am hoping you can advise me, but I am looking to replace my main bearings and possibly rod bearings in my CJ5 258 (1979). Can I do that with the engine still in the Jeep? I just did an engine overhaul besides - ALL new gaskets top end and bottom end, including rear main and front main through timing cover, so I'm going to drop the oil pan again and replace the bearings - engine was slightly oil starved and I dont want any future issues. Any advice/suggestions would seriously be appreciated. Thanks!
6d16 engine bearing clearance?
Do you use old bearings on the caps to check the clearance ?or you got to pull bearings out an check clearance with no bearings?
You install new bearing.
What size bearings you buy for 0.003 thousands Sir
Size 2
lock the crank, if it moves it’ll ruin the gauge. half the final torque is all that’s needed, the cap size is the same at half the torque
Dis
so what do you do if its too tight or too loose?
Clean and reseat the bearing and check again. If it's still not in spec, may have to get different size bearing
was that a 6 cyclyder motor or a V8 Motor ?
It's an inline 6 cylinder 4.0 liter engine.
COOL channel
Thanks! Glad to have you following along.
"Guys, don't move DRY metal on metal. it will scratch". All through the video "Don't move dry on dry metal. VERY end he wipes off the gauge while the cranks still on the block :P:P:P:P. It will be fine though i'm just playin.
I was told there would be no math😂
Haha!! Just a few numbers...
6d16 engine bearing clearance?