How To: Plastigage Main and Rod Bearing Oil clearances

This is how we get consistent results with plastigage as we still use this for final checkups or for initial assessment before machining and checking with our micrometer and dial bore gauge.
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And even after all the final machining is done, we still use plastigage for final checking as even the best machineshops will be prone to human errors in very rare instances, so it wont hurt to be extra sure.
here's the older plastigage video we did over 2yrs ago for reference
• How to: bearing oil cl...
and also episode 1 of the b20vtec project where this block and crank belon to, click it here
• Honda Civic SiR B20vte...
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[@SRDmotorsports]

Here’s episode 3 of the b20vtec series we used this block in! we completely assemble it here for you to binge watch
ruclips.net/video/pwwPXbQnABw/видео.htmlsi=wEquwkYDLGcdTEG0

[@nguryab]

Kudos to you Sir Ralph, another quality content. I’ve been an avid fan of your videos 🙂

[@SRDmotorsports]

Thanks thanks much appreciated

[@StraightOutThaGudda4U]

I have a question, as an engine builder like yourself, how to do determine which body of oil you're gonna do since you're working with difference clearances, once again great vid as always

[@SRDmotorsports]

A simpler way to see it like in layman’s observe Honda D16 and Bseries oil clearances and what range oil weight they were good for…
That gives atleast a simpler idea or view

[@SRDmotorsports]

as you notice we “usually” go oem daido/taiho bearings for a reason…

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@StraightOutThaGudda4U example is my engine and Jasper’s
His has been running since 2016 , a street car pulling 12s til now…
so sometimes you got to think… cuz more clearances kill oil pressure too
(next everyone needs new pump? hmm)

[@StraightOutThaGudda4U]

@@SRDmotorsports ahh okay I understand everything you said now, so basically you play within the tolerances/range of OEM and it works, tighter clearances with destroy the bearing and slightly looser clearances will save the longevity of the bearing but then again too loose of clearances can still destroy the bearing hence why you work within a specific range. It all makes sense. But usually they say all motor you can work with slightly tighter clearances and turbo you need looser clearances, what are your thoughts on that?

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@StraightOutThaGudda4U makes sense on that, and you def will get it if we include “heat” cuz it makes more power (turbo) right 😎
They generally run hotter too that’s why

[@the063one]

me: taking notes.

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@the063one def handy cuz someone has a spare GSR block too 😂 Bworks should hide his 10 wrench 😂🤣🤣😂

[@the063one]

@@SRDmotorsports hahaha 🤫🤫🤫

[@SRDmotorsports]

we always have extra 10 and 12 wrenches here and socket for the same reason it sometimes goes and hides 🤣😂

[@humbertosanchez2867]

How do u know what side of oil u gonna use

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@humbertosanchez2867 what do you mean side?

[@Built_it_by-alex]

Hey man what up? That OEM clearance is a bit too tight, with the amount of engines I rebuild I'd say .01 for mains and .02 for rods. I don't why but most 4 cylinder engines #4 main and #3 rod bearing always goes first it's so odd. I like how you keep things basic, there's so much tricks I can talk about with bearings 😅

[@SRDmotorsports]

yep that’s inches
And yep checking clearances always did good for me…