I've been driving 4x4s, off road for 40 plus years. As far as skinny v wide tyres, I've had both and driven all kinds of conditions, in most popular brands of car. The difference between them, depending on the vehicle, in most cases, is so small that it's not worrying about. The correct tyre depends on two things, the vehicle you own and what you want to achieve. One thing to keep in mind is that an under powered vehicle will usually perform better on a skinny tire. Tyre pressure is the be all and end all for all situations. The correct tyre pressure for all conditions is... Totally dependent on on the environment, the vehicle and can change from day to day, depending on the weather. There only draw back with mud tyres that I have found is that they can be noisy on the bitumen...
I would add that skinny tired cars tend to be older and more often than not, much lighter. Plus usually they tended to have a larger diameter than optional fatties stock vs stock, so there are a few variables there.
Ummmmmm. That make zero sense. If "an under powered vehicle will usually perform better on a skinny tire", then common sense and a kindergarten education would stretch that to any vehicle will perform better on a skinny tire.
I'd like to add saving on fuel on skinnys vs Fatty's lol Rolling resistance. You cut through most terrains instead of pushing through. You don't slide on rocks climbing up. And if you need to float air down. Skinnys all the way
I carry loads and cargos on my Hilux and I find that wider tires with the PROPER pressure makes a whole lot of difference when I am fighting uphill on a rutted and wet track.
Hey Ronny, just a tip, because I’ve been arranging repairs on these since 1986, if you want your Engel to keep working, you should cover it with something. It’s not designed as an all weather outdoor unit like a Trailblazer etc. The led display will be the first to go followed by the electronic control panel, followed by the other bits. Keeping it out of the sun will also make it a lot more efficient.
Gone Bush I’ve had mine out on the back of my pickup bed for the last 5 years (uk) loads of heavy rain, it’s held up fine ismit more the heat that gets to them?
Kyle B yep, the heat will just bake the electric controls. Kyle is yours a 5 year old fridge or an earlier model? They will still work in the weather (older models more so that the newer models) and they’ll still last a while, just not as long as if they are covered. Parking a fridge in the sun doesn’t make a lot of sense anyway. Especially one with as little insulation as an Engel.
Thank you for these videos. I just upgraded from a less capable 4x4 for more adventurous journeys. While not a complete novice, I definitely need an education and this channel is pure gold.
When I explain airing down to new folks (or their kids). 1. The lower pressure makes the ride more comfortable. 2. You get a greater foot print over rocks and such 3. Think of a balloon. Is it easier to pop a really full balloon or a deflated balloon?
What confuses me is when i see things like this: skinny tyres no deflation - Mud crawler comp: ruclips.net/video/bfz6FY9TMw0/видео.html Rock crawler comp: ruclips.net/video/DaQOGLbLrbs/видео.html (also if I was really to play the devil's advocate, talking about skinny tyres on sand yet shows a picture of a tractor on dirt!) I'm confused if there is that much difference between sand and dirt/mud, and using the example of the comp trucks, tractor, and tank, it would seem tall skinny tyres are best regardless of ground conditions or tyre pressure.
At the risk of sounding like even more of a noob to you, very interesting 1st place tractor pulling tyre and tyre pressure tips: ruclips.net/video/Qji3uqGmyQQ/видео.html She seems to be an expert and know exactly what she is talking about!
@@PeterKnagge mate - you obviously know better than generations of desert drivers. You should visit the world's deserts and educate everyone how they're doing it wrong.
Peter Knagge I’ve no experience in dirt but I still struggle to see how skinnies in sand are better. I realise pressure effects the length of your footprint. No arguments. But a wider tyre with the same length footprint as a narrow one has greater constant area. The greater the contact area the lower the bearing pressure on the sand. That goes further to reducing the amount it sinks and therefore the resulting “step” In front of the tyre as it drives. Really, is love to see a big set of fats vs real skinnies in a direct side by side on same car, aired down to same pressures up a dune, slowly. 2 gear low. 2500 rpm. See which get further to eliminate driving style and power. Both HAVE to be the same diameter though. Hmmmmm anyone???? 😬
I've lost a tire due to heat duning in the sand at 10psig with internal beadlocks. melted a hole right into the sidewall, then some more by the time I got out of the sand. I even melted a dirt bike tube running really low pressures in the dunes, but rim locks kept it together.
@@spedon2wheels267 Why would you air down just to air back up? Driving off road with too little air can quickly destroy a tire due to heat. Doesn't have to be on road. It also doesn't have to lead to an immediate failure. The heat cycles can cause long term issues with the tire.
I've had it explained to me that skinnies are better for following reasons: mud- skinnies cut thru to firmer base and get traction, rock/dirt- narrow tyre means vehicle downforce concentrated on smaller area which equals greater traction on that concentrated area.
Good job on the tyres mate. I also would’ve explained aggressive side walls protect your tyres when at low pressures whilst driving over rocky terrain. Love your work🇦🇺🤠👍🍺
(From another West Australian). With respect to skinny vs wide off-road. When airing down, the aim is to get a longer footprint, not a wider one. Apart from increasing the size of the contact patch, and therefore reducing the pressure per square inch on the ground, there’s a key reason for wanting length over width. And that is longitudinal traction. Ronny’s tyre aired down on a rock demonstrates this perfectly. Especially climbing up rocks, this ability to mold to the edge of a rock equals grip and traction. There’s a lot of tyre in contact with the rock. Highway pressure in any tyre, skinny or wide prevents this from happening. I personally prefer skinny, but Ronny’s logic is sound and backed by a lot of experience. And like Ronny, tyres with decent side wall tread blocks help in every situation too.
Perfect!! Thanks!! Also… tractor tires with narrow tires are done that way to fit between rows of planted vegetation. Wider tires would ruin their harvest . 😉
I agree with everything you said except the wide/narrow for sand and comparing it to a tractor. Airing down a wide tire would be better then a narrow for the simple reason that your overall footprint is larger in both ways maximizing flotation. More is always better so you can put all the chances on your side. You're comparison should mirror that of snow wheeling as the exact same rules apply to sand. Here in Canada we snow wheel with wide to air down for as large a footprint as possible, especially if your lead rig and breaking trail. Perfect example would be the Arctic Trucks of Iceland. Tractor and tank tracks are for mud and cross country terrain. Tractor tires are narrow so you can dig down for traction, they do not float. The tractor example dose depends on terrain. if terrain is loose, farmers will double the number of wheels for more traction or go with a much wider tire/wheel combo. But overall solid video Ronny. Cheers.
Same vehicle weight and same tyre pressure will give the same size contact patch whether wide or narrow, the narrow tyre will just get a longer footprint. The advantage of the narrow tyre is that it is running over less fresh sand, so it needs less effort to push through soft sand. The advantage of the wide tyre is that the sidewalls have to flex less for the same size contact patch, making it safer to drive at higher speeds on low tyre pressure.
Snow driving isn't directly relatable to sand. It has similarities but is more a blend on mud & sand. Your footprint is related to ground pressure, it doesn't matter whether you have wide or narrow tyres, your ground pressure will be the same if you have the same amount of tyre in contact with the ground. This is a function of weight and tyre pressure, the width of the tyre is immaterial. The wider tyre differs only in that the shape of the footprint is not as long, you've got more rolling resistance which has to be overcome. The additional wheels on tractors is due to requiring less ground pressure in order to not sink in particular situations. As per the examples given, sometimes wider is better, sometimes narrower is better.
@@JeremyPetho if we are talking about comparing a 12.50 to a 10.50 then yes, i would agree and say the difference is marginal and hardly worth saying that one is better then the other. But if the comparison is more extreme from a 245mm to a 315mm then obviously the larger will be better.
@@k2svpete On the contrary. both sand and snow driving share the same basic wheeling principals. Ask anyone who lives in an extended snow climate like us in Canada. Experience and motorsports has proven this. Theoretical thinking if you never done it cant be used to justify and win your point. Mud in the comparison has no place as snow dose not have the viscosity and density resistance that mud has. The primary function of a tractor tire is traction in dirt and little mud. Both of which have a hard pack near the surface, unless your mud ends up being a soft spot. Sand is not part of a tractors function unless it has flotation tires. So with that cleared out of the way, i stick by what i said about it not being a popper example.
I bet the thing with wide vs skinny is more like somewhere in between but the range of tyres people use is close enough together to not make enough difference. You would have to go to the extremes to really see the difference. There’s probably a compromise on either end and something in between is ideal. The biggest gains are from pressure then height as both give the longer “track”. I’ve been sand driving in a Nissan xtrail and the only reason I’ve been stuck is from clearance and getting crossed up
Hi Ronny , I love the content you create, I’ve been a viewer for 4 years, to the point that I bought my first 4x4, nothing new, it’s a 99’ dodge Dakota with a 5.2 v8. I live in Florida reason I have an American pickup, but all the knowledge you’ve put out I’ve applied since I first when our off-roading , definitely learned a lot . Through trail and error, but it’s lots of fun. Wanted to say thank you ! Thank you for sharing your moments with your friends and beautiful landscapes you’ve shown me, Australia is definitely beautiful ! Keep up the work ! Also if I can send you something that’d be an honor , just to show my gratitude.
One big plus for skinnier tires is snow. Wide tires slide in snow much more than slim tires. My tires are currently 285mm and I am looking to reduce down to 255mm.
The choise there also depends on the depth of snow. Shall you drive through the snow or on top of the snow. Little snow - you want skinnys. They sink through and should grip the layers under the snow. If it's deep snow so your vehicle get stuck cause it's getting hold up by the undercarriage you should get tires for "over snow capacity", which means fat tires. Just look at many of the vehicles on Iceland.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this and part 2--- I'm new to 4 wheeling-- and will be buying a lexus GX470 (softroader as you call it) and I've learned a LOT from you... thanks again.. (and NO I'm not going to be rock crawling..). I am a REAL softroader only.. :)
The example of track width on tanks proving that wide tyres don't give better flotation on soft ground is a little iffy, Ronny. Bulldozers that operate on swampy ground use wide tracks (swamp tracks can be up to a metre wide) and dozers that operate on hard ground use quarry tracks which may be less than 400mm wide. Using swamp tracks on hard ground reduces the dozers' pushing ability dramatically. So, in that case, ground pressure equals load carrying ability.
Interesting video, using correct tyre pressure for the terrain is definitely important and underrated.I just got back from central Australia and navigated sand,rocks, corrugations and didn't get a single puncture.Take the time to air down when required can save you the time and trouble of using your spare.
I'm enlightened LOL Guru Ron. Can't but agree with all you said. Min wheel size is 18" on mine, with a 265/65x18 AT they are down to 14psi (1 Bar) for sand and 20 - 25 psi for tracks. Glides over corrugations at 25psi. I'm not a fan of mud (I don't like the cleaning)
We have little mud in Norway but every educated driver here knows that skinny tires are best for snow due to less resistance,,, that's why I have skinnier tires on 16" rims for winter and wider tires with 18" for summer on my Jeep WJ,,, also, most ppl have dedicated snow tires with softer rubber during winter months (it's mandatory), but many 4x4 drivers us also Mud+Snow tires, and then often studded.
A good explanation, but not perfect. Flotation on sand is a matter of PSI. The lower your PSI (pounds per square inch) the greater the flotation it's simple math. Contact area times psi equals vehicle weight.
Oddly enough, I was looking at this yesterday. Mate has a Disco 3 with 20" (?) wheels on it and he's looking at putting some better wheels/tyres on it. We took the wheels off one side and put a couple of 16" wheels with 33" tyres under the wheelarches, just to see how it looked. It looked... weird. Even though the tyres barely fit under the arches, the wheels look comically small. The Disco 3 is pretty heavy so I guess LR could argue that they HAD to fit 19" wheels so they could fit big brakes but, let's face it, if Toyota can get a 79 to stop using brakes that fit inside a 16" wheel so could LR if they wanted to. Pretty sure that the main reason LR fit big wheels and low-profile tyres to their newer cars is simply a design choice.
Yep - A dilemma Roadtyres (esp on huge rims) may slice the sidewall (pinch - on rocks / ruts) or crack the sidewall if lowered too much at all.. not a good recipe for anything off Asphalt. Too bad a lot of Luxo wagons have "huuge brake disks -for racing - and can't take smaller rims, and no guard clearance (or lift kit - due to very complex suspension / monocoque ) for bigger tyres. Shows flash ain't everything. j
The discovery is a very good 4X4 but you can't fit smaller rims so not really suitable for hard off road driving. Land Rover has basically gone upmarket now anyway and are not really building vehicles for off road life anymore.
Due to having such large brakes the disco 4 3.0l can only fit specific 18 inch wheels at the smallest but with a set of 285 60 18s you can let them down to 15 psi on the sand no probs! One better is the disco 4 2.7 which can still fit 17s as the brakes are the same as a disco 3. 285 65 17 will fit but the spare has to be let down to fit in the hole. I agree it's a shame the new Land rovers are all plastic and the defender is now dead.but keeps us Toyota fans happy to see the Land rover owners admitting defeat and crossing over to the correct side🤣
I love watching y’all Aussies more than our states guys. If a Aussie thinks it’s bs, y’all say it’s bullshit. If a US guy thinks it’s bs, well we candy coat over sensitive feelings. Stay true Aussies, we love you here in Tennessee
The actual only terrain where wider tires are mandatory are peat bogs. Up here in Canada i work on them and trust me, narrow tires will get you dug deep in seconds
Pro-tip:- Get a TPMS that displays temperature info and it can help you optimise tyre pressures on any surface. Look at your tyre temp's on the road, air-down when you go off-road and look at your tyre temp's again. Once you've got an idea of what your normal tyre temp's are, you can air down more if you need to and you'll know when your tyres are starting to overheat. Also, another tip related to TPMS:- If you've got steel wheels, you can drill a 2nd hole in the rim and fit a 2nd valve so you can mount external TPMS sensors permanently.
You are exactly correct about side walls of mud tyres being the issue with pressures on sand but in my experience it's about a 15psi problem. Standard 31" Grandtrek at 30psi are like my now 33" mud tyres at 15psi. The Grandtrek's are just way better on super soft sand BUT.... all tyres are different and for myself I'll never run mud's on a beach because when you hit the really soft sections you have less air to go down if your already at 15psi on mud terrains
Good show, I agree with most points. I live and play in the Malaysian part of Borneo, and have been to the Indonesian side as well. I have also been part of a Malaysian expedition that shipped cars over to Africa and traversed the Sahara (over some 40 days) from Sudan to Morocco, about half of which was across the desert (as opposed to roads). On tyres for sand, I agree that MTs can be used since all our Malaysian cars ran on sponsored Kumho MTs and managed the dunes. It must be noted, however, our local guides were running near-bald HTs and ATs, and their vehicles generally had an easier time in the soft stuff. Better, more-experienced drivers? Perhaps, but that would also require us to recognise which tyres these better drivers chose. It wasn't because they were poor, since they were paid very well for the job. As for skinnies versus wide on slippery mud, we have many trucks running on timber logging trails that are generally well maintained, and can support laden trucks up to 80 tonnes. However, they are meant to be used only when dry, and all heavy vehicles stop moving as soon as it rains, wherever they are. Light 4X4s are used to go pick up the crews, and these light utes run skinny tyres, the idea being to cut through the thin layer of slippery mud (about 50mm thick) and reach the hard stuff underneath. Wide tyres used by recreational drivers don't fare so well on these tracks. It is not really about which can or cannot, but more abut which is BETTER for what conditions.
Oh, in Sahara, we ran 14psi (1 Bar) as "normal" and further down to 7PSI (0.5 Bar) when someone got stuck. Stayed at these pressures for several days, until we got back on what passed for a "road", whereupon we aired up to 20psi.
I agree with 99% of what you said in this video but I do remember driving out of Israelite Bay one trip it was raining and the clay track was slippery with deep bog holes everywhere. I had skinny AT's and a low powered 2.8 pretend turbo, all the other boys had wide tyres and more horsepower. I could idle through the bogholes and had no problems steering while the other guys had to gun it through and had trouble staying on the track. The skinnies cut through the slippery clay and gripped underneath whereas the fatties slipped on top of surface. But that's only once.
Wide tires on sand is the easiest to believe. Wanting to float logic says large footprint, but as you point out wider means more rolling resistance and your footprint is already pretty large when aired down.
I was just wondering about the reasons behind lowering the psi on the trailer tires because the plan is to build myself semi-offroadish camper trailer for family vacations. At first I wasn't really considering either way to be the "right" way, but this explanation makes sense, so it will have lower psi also then. Just the info and explanation I needed at this moment, thumbs up.
Hey Ronnie try staying with longer tyre then saying wider I understand you but others don't thanks for the good work and fun things you all do in Aussie
Great video Ronny 👍👍👍 though u can’t get through to some people, still stubborn to the end, mainly to lazy to let their tyres down, especially the entry to Fraser Island, (Inskip Point) , so funny the utube videos on that place, also good point about the people with lots of power thinking that will get them through, all points I believe true on your video, P.S I was at the same Xmas party as you recently but to shy to say hello to you and Torbs, (big personalities) I regret it though, should of said hello, never mind next time, take care, looking forward to next video thanks buddy 👍👍👍 Louis
I'm new to your channel and somewhat new to off roading so I have little experience to argue for or against anything you say. I do value all that you say and will take most of it to heart. The only issue that you may want to look into is the bit about Tank tracks. I say this because if you research the German invasion of Russia in WW2 when they had mud and snow to deal with their narrow tank tracks were insufficient and caused them to get stuck. They tried some temporary "fixes" via just attaching slightly wider tracks and eventually just had to re-engineer them, and for all newer Tanks they came with wider tracks. They attributed some of the Russian victories not just the the T-34's sloping armor but to wider tracks that enabled them to move better in mud, snow, and marshy ground. How does this relate to 4x4ing, lol heck if I know other than your reference to long tank tracks. It is quite okay to tell me I'm wrong because it won't be the first time and I may have misunderstood you or the WW2 video's. Either way I hope to keep learning until they put me in a casket.
I think the wide vs narrow debate is so contentious because there are so many variables. Driving style is just as important as conditions. Also it seems to be more of a ratio thing. A 235/85/16 is "skinnier" than a 235/75/15 even though they are both 235mm wide. The latter is a much shorter tire; making it wider in comparison to it's height. But the former would be better off road because it's "longer" (fewer rotations per mile/km) just like was mentioned in the video. Also ratio of tire size to vehicle size (length, width and weight). The 235/75/15 would be better on a small stock setup because the vehicle would maintain it's original characteristics. Thus be more predictable. I agree about wider tires causing drag, but if the tires have side-biters, then that could be advantageous. Also tire weight comes into play here. Too much unsprung weight can overwork the suspension and cause breakages or cause the vehicle to be difficult to control. Also drag could be negated by more power or more gearing. There's a point of diminishing returns to every situation. Balance is key.
SAND: How does floating on sand compare to float on snow. The Ratrac (for ski slopes) has also wide chains in order not to sink. Isn't at the end the amount of the area counting? Construction work lorries do have 4 axles with 4+4+2+2 tires in order to have more flotation. Don't wide tires have more with and lenght when in right pressure? Thanks for your cool explanatory videos!
Lowering your tire pressure for sand is about displacement and surface area. A wider tire is going to benefit for sure. Also tank tracks are wide. Maybe not proportional to their length but they are wide, they don’t need to be wider since they get their additional surface area from length
What's your opinion on LT vs P rated tires? The new 4Runners stock size comes in both: P is SL load range, LT is E load range, I went with P since that one feels much better on the road and saves on gas, and I only do mild off-roading. While i agree with your points about airing down all the way, I'm worried about the weaker sidewalls on the P rated ones when airing down. Also one thing I noticed you didn't discuss... I wonder how much clearance one loses when airing down.
Believe it or not, it actually matters what kind of sand you are trying to traverse (geologist here). Blow sand derived from a pre-existing dune sandstone, like in a lot of areas in Utah, is maimly round quartz grains that act like ball bearings: there is very little friction because the grains rotate. Wide tires work better because there is so little grip. However, blow or beach sand from granite or non-dune sandstone sources has more angular feldspar grains and therefore is more "grippy" on the tires' bottoms and sides. Skinnies work better because of greater frictional contact area.
I live in Central QLD where there's no grading - they just lay down rock shrapnel every six months, especially up to Gun Powder from Isa and CC. Here's one for the mix: if you don't run 50psi cold, you'll get a little rock pyramid that will stand up and punch through your sidewall. Some advice for the GRR, Bloomfield Track South of Isa and the Tanamai Track, after Wolf Creek. All the Central NSW, WA and QLD Stations just shake their heads when reading these generalisations.
Myth 5 probably comes from the days of "rag" tyres because I always had rag tyres and they got a better footprint in mud when aired down I always had the old bar tread so plenty of sidewall tread 6.00, 6.50, 7.00, 7.50 R16 no steel belting at all 8 ply nylon
Airing down tires is good especially on rock crawling, especially steep, and sharp due to ur theres jsur sliding especially on a rainy day, so you need that tire to deflate, and wrap around the tires as much as you could, but ofc not too much. Deflating ur tires too much, will damage ur side walls.
I notice you don't run bead locks on your wheels. I've also seen video of a truck popping as many as 3 tires off the bead driving off camber with aired down tires. How do you manage without bead locks? Do you use narrow wheels (rims)?
I can tell you 100 % that low pressure damages tyres quite quickly - had to change a tyre after driving off road for a longer distance, it was full of black sooth...
Ronnie I used kumho tyres which failed miserably and cracked all up the side walls the reason they wouldn’t exchange them after on 7k was that I admitted airing down in different terrains this was against what they recommend
The science behind narrow and wide tyres is... Wide tyres give good lateral grip and narrow tyres give good longitudinal grip. Why ? You know how a sliding tyre has less grip and you need to regain traction before you can load the tyre again. It's the same thing with narrow and wide tyres. Picture a tyre rolling along, the part of the tyre that is flat on the road is stationary on the road and has time to attach to the road on a micro level. The part of the tyre that is being put down on the road and the part that is lifting off the road is travelling at a different speed and is not attached - effectively sliding and having less grip. The longer the contact patch the greater the amount of tyre attached compared to the amount being put down or lifting up so you have good longitudinal traction. When cornering hard the tyre has slip angles and the side walls of the tyre are being put down and lifted up in the same way as above. The problem is because the tyre is narrow the ratio of tyre attached to tyre being put down or lifted up is less so less grip on direction change. = Wide tyre for cournering and narrow and tall for longitudinal grip. Waldo's believe it or not.. do do do do do.
Hey Ronny. I got a question about the rim size. My car has now "285/70-17" tires. I thought about changing them to "33X12.5X15" or probably "32x11.5x15". They first ones are just about 1 cm more in diameter and about 3 cm wider, the second ones are just slightly smaller than the originals, but they have quite a lot of rubber more. The tyre size does still fit without any modifications. Do you think, such 15"-rims with these tires are better for offroad driving? The entire stuff about tires and their size is some mysterious science to me, and I haven't tried as many different tires as you already have. Maybe you have some advice for this matter. Thanks.
Haha! I am a victim of large wheels, and wide tires. Its more laziness than mistaken. I had a 2006 tahoe that i drove in soft sand. Truth be told the 265 tires on a 17" wheel didnt help me. Got stuck in the mud in the middle of summer. I went to a 32" tire that is 305 wide on 20" wheels and i floated over the same terrain i got stuck in. I also drove an h2 hummer with 315 tires on 18" wheels. Stopped to take a picture and i got stuck. Took my tahoe with the 305 on 20 wheels to the same spot loaded with an icebox and water and i glided right out of that same spot. All my friends are running 16 and 18's with 285 tires I still don't listen to them and run 305's on 20s as it works for me and I feel giving your speech I may start to experiment with lowering tire pressure on 20s and seeing the difference between what I had and what I have
On snow: If you're driving on snow that is not deep, a narrow tire will do fine. If you are driving on snow that is deep, like 1 meter+, get the biggest and widest tire you can get on the smallest possible rim. 37"+ on 15" rims.
With a Disco 4 or late model land rover your options to go down to an 18" rim are very limited. I know Compomotive PD1881 which is 18" alloy will fit on a Disco 4 (I have a set of these with 265/60/R18 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx's on.). And Tuffant do 18" steels for them. I think you can get Land Rover 18" rims on, but you do need to shave the brake caliper down to clear the spokes of the rim... Ive heard of owners doing this, but never seen it done. Its worth doing if you find your using the Disco on serious terrain. Even with an 18" rim, the amount of airing down you can do will not be much, but on 18" rim you could put something like a Cooper ST Maxx on it, which has a toughened sidewall so they can take it. I'm not so dilligent with airing down as I should be... My Disco 2 has 16" rims with 245/75/16's I could air them down a fair bit, last time I went out, I didn't bother. And there was one section, where it would have helped tremendously. Seriously, carry a decent compressor in the car and air down them sodding tyres.
Hey I have a question, how big of a lift and tires do you have and how much ground clearance? I am in the US and want to get into 4 wheeling. If I got a Jeep JL Rubicon and put a 2 inch lift and 35 inch tires on it would it be capable enough to do the things you do in your videos? Or do you need much more extensive modifications? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I love your videos.
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Tractors have tall skinny tires to minimise track width and maximise the surface area of crops
Designing a narrow track tractor with wide tyres would be an easy achievement for engineers. It's all a fine balancing art
No there are still plants between the wheels when driving over
I've been driving 4x4s, off road for 40 plus years. As far as skinny v wide tyres, I've had both and driven all kinds of conditions, in most popular brands of car. The difference between them, depending on the vehicle, in most cases, is so small that it's not worrying about. The correct tyre depends on two things, the vehicle you own and what you want to achieve. One thing to keep in mind is that an under powered vehicle will usually perform better on a skinny tire. Tyre pressure is the be all and end all for all situations. The correct tyre pressure for all conditions is... Totally dependent on on the environment, the vehicle and can change from day to day, depending on the weather. There only draw back with mud tyres that I have found is that they can be noisy on the bitumen...
I would add that skinny tired cars tend to be older and more often than not, much lighter. Plus usually they tended to have a larger diameter than optional fatties stock vs stock, so there are a few variables there.
Ummmmmm. That make zero sense. If "an under powered vehicle will usually perform better on a skinny tire", then common sense and a kindergarten education would stretch that to any vehicle will perform better on a skinny tire.
I'd like to add saving on fuel on skinnys vs Fatty's lol Rolling resistance. You cut through most terrains instead of pushing through. You don't slide on rocks climbing up. And if you need to float air down. Skinnys all the way
I carry loads and cargos on my Hilux and I find that wider tires with the PROPER pressure makes a whole lot of difference when I am fighting uphill on a rutted and wet track.
Any of the round rubber things you use under your vehicle work better if you call them “tires” especially since the “i” is skinnier.
Hey Ronny, just a tip, because I’ve been arranging repairs on these since 1986, if you want your Engel to keep working, you should cover it with something. It’s not designed as an all weather outdoor unit like a Trailblazer etc. The led display will be the first to go followed by the electronic control panel, followed by the other bits. Keeping it out of the sun will also make it a lot more efficient.
Gone Bush I’ve had mine out on the back of my pickup bed for the last 5 years (uk) loads of heavy rain, it’s held up fine ismit more the heat that gets to them?
Kyle B yep, the heat will just bake the electric controls. Kyle is yours a 5 year old fridge or an earlier model? They will still work in the weather (older models more so that the newer models) and they’ll still last a while, just not as long as if they are covered. Parking a fridge in the sun doesn’t make a lot of sense anyway. Especially one with as little insulation as an Engel.
Thank you for these videos. I just upgraded from a less capable 4x4 for more adventurous journeys. While not a complete novice, I definitely need an education and this channel is pure gold.
When I explain airing down to new folks (or their kids).
1. The lower pressure makes the ride more comfortable.
2. You get a greater foot print over rocks and such
3. Think of a balloon. Is it easier to pop a really full balloon or a deflated balloon?
I like it!
What confuses me is when i see things like this:
skinny tyres no deflation -
Mud crawler comp: ruclips.net/video/bfz6FY9TMw0/видео.html
Rock crawler comp: ruclips.net/video/DaQOGLbLrbs/видео.html
(also if I was really to play the devil's advocate, talking about skinny tyres on sand yet shows a picture of a tractor on dirt!)
I'm confused if there is that much difference between sand and dirt/mud, and using the example of the comp trucks, tractor, and tank, it would seem tall skinny tyres are best regardless of ground conditions or tyre pressure.
At the risk of sounding like even more of a noob to you, very interesting 1st place tractor pulling tyre and tyre pressure tips: ruclips.net/video/Qji3uqGmyQQ/видео.html
She seems to be an expert and know exactly what she is talking about!
@@PeterKnagge mate - you obviously know better than generations of desert drivers. You should visit the world's deserts and educate everyone how they're doing it wrong.
Peter Knagge I’ve no experience in dirt but I still struggle to see how skinnies in sand are better. I realise pressure effects the length of your footprint. No arguments. But a wider tyre with the same length footprint as a narrow one has greater constant area. The greater the contact area the lower the bearing pressure on the sand. That goes further to reducing the amount it sinks and therefore the resulting “step”
In front of the tyre as it drives. Really, is love to see a big set of fats vs real skinnies in a direct side by side on same car, aired down to same pressures up a dune, slowly. 2 gear low. 2500 rpm. See which get further to eliminate driving style and power. Both HAVE to be the same diameter though. Hmmmmm anyone???? 😬
Dropping air pressure destroying tires: the problem arise when driving too fast. Sidewall flex creates heat... and is bag for tires
That’s why we have compressors
I've lost a tire due to heat duning in the sand at 10psig with internal beadlocks. melted a hole right into the sidewall, then some more by the time I got out of the sand. I even melted a dirt bike tube running really low pressures in the dunes, but rim locks kept it together.
@@spedon2wheels267 Why would you air down just to air back up? Driving off road with too little air can quickly destroy a tire due to heat. Doesn't have to be on road. It also doesn't have to lead to an immediate failure. The heat cycles can cause long term issues with the tire.
I've had it explained to me that skinnies are better for following reasons: mud- skinnies cut thru to firmer base and get traction, rock/dirt- narrow tyre means vehicle downforce concentrated on smaller area which equals greater traction on that concentrated area.
Good job on the tyres mate. I also would’ve explained aggressive side walls protect your tyres when at low pressures whilst driving over rocky terrain. Love your work🇦🇺🤠👍🍺
even my 404 unimog on 42" v-tread tyres needed to be aired down
(From another West Australian). With respect to skinny vs wide off-road. When airing down, the aim is to get a longer footprint, not a wider one. Apart from increasing the size of the contact patch, and therefore reducing the pressure per square inch on the ground, there’s a key reason for wanting length over width. And that is longitudinal traction. Ronny’s tyre aired down on a rock demonstrates this perfectly. Especially climbing up rocks, this ability to mold to the edge of a rock equals grip and traction. There’s a lot of tyre in contact with the rock. Highway pressure in any tyre, skinny or wide prevents this from happening. I personally prefer skinny, but Ronny’s logic is sound and backed by a lot of experience. And like Ronny, tyres with decent side wall tread blocks help in every situation too.
I always used tall narrow tyres on my old suzuki Samurai and it worked really well on all surfaces. Need to look at vehicle weight as well.
Perfect!! Thanks!! Also… tractor tires with narrow tires are done that way to fit between rows of planted vegetation. Wider tires would ruin their harvest . 😉
Man.. You Chanel is the best in youtube. Congratulations
I agree with everything you said except the wide/narrow for sand and comparing it to a tractor. Airing down a wide tire would be better then a narrow for the simple reason that your overall footprint is larger in both ways maximizing flotation. More is always better so you can put all the chances on your side. You're comparison should mirror that of snow wheeling as the exact same rules apply to sand. Here in Canada we snow wheel with wide to air down for as large a footprint as possible, especially if your lead rig and breaking trail. Perfect example would be the Arctic Trucks of Iceland. Tractor and tank tracks are for mud and cross country terrain. Tractor tires are narrow so you can dig down for traction, they do not float. The tractor example dose depends on terrain. if terrain is loose, farmers will double the number of wheels for more traction or go with a much wider tire/wheel combo.
But overall solid video Ronny. Cheers.
Tractors driving in mud use extra tires mounted outside the other tires so its 4 wheels on the drive axle, even seen some with 6 wheels on same axle
Same vehicle weight and same tyre pressure will give the same size contact patch whether wide or narrow, the narrow tyre will just get a longer footprint.
The advantage of the narrow tyre is that it is running over less fresh sand, so it needs less effort to push through soft sand.
The advantage of the wide tyre is that the sidewalls have to flex less for the same size contact patch, making it safer to drive at higher speeds on low tyre pressure.
Snow driving isn't directly relatable to sand. It has similarities but is more a blend on mud & sand.
Your footprint is related to ground pressure, it doesn't matter whether you have wide or narrow tyres, your ground pressure will be the same if you have the same amount of tyre in contact with the ground. This is a function of weight and tyre pressure, the width of the tyre is immaterial. The wider tyre differs only in that the shape of the footprint is not as long, you've got more rolling resistance which has to be overcome.
The additional wheels on tractors is due to requiring less ground pressure in order to not sink in particular situations. As per the examples given, sometimes wider is better, sometimes narrower is better.
@@JeremyPetho if we are talking about comparing a 12.50 to a 10.50 then yes, i would agree and say the difference is marginal and hardly worth saying that one is better then the other. But if the comparison is more extreme from a 245mm to a 315mm then obviously the larger will be better.
@@k2svpete On the contrary. both sand and snow driving share the same basic wheeling principals. Ask anyone who lives in an extended snow climate like us in Canada. Experience and motorsports has proven this. Theoretical thinking if you never done it cant be used to justify and win your point. Mud in the comparison has no place as snow dose not have the viscosity and density resistance that mud has.
The primary function of a tractor tire is traction in dirt and little mud. Both of which have a hard pack near the surface, unless your mud ends up being a soft spot. Sand is not part of a tractors function unless it has flotation tires. So with that cleared out of the way, i stick by what i said about it not being a popper example.
I bet the thing with wide vs skinny is more like somewhere in between but the range of tyres people use is close enough together to not make enough difference. You would have to go to the extremes to really see the difference. There’s probably a compromise on either end and something in between is ideal. The biggest gains are from pressure then height as both give the longer “track”. I’ve been sand driving in a Nissan xtrail and the only reason I’ve been stuck is from clearance and getting crossed up
Hi Ronny , I love the content you create, I’ve been a viewer for 4 years, to the point that I bought my first 4x4, nothing new, it’s a 99’ dodge Dakota with a 5.2 v8.
I live in Florida reason I have an American pickup, but all the knowledge you’ve put out I’ve applied since I first when our off-roading , definitely learned a lot . Through trail and error, but it’s lots of fun. Wanted to say thank you ! Thank you for sharing your moments with your friends and beautiful landscapes you’ve shown me, Australia is definitely beautiful ! Keep up the work !
Also if I can send you something that’d be an honor , just to show my gratitude.
Totally agree with everything you pointed out. Great vid mate.
One big plus for skinnier tires is snow. Wide tires slide in snow much more than slim tires. My tires are currently 285mm and I am looking to reduce down to 255mm.
The choise there also depends on the depth of snow. Shall you drive through the snow or on top of the snow. Little snow - you want skinnys. They sink through and should grip the layers under the snow. If it's deep snow so your vehicle get stuck cause it's getting hold up by the undercarriage you should get tires for "over snow capacity", which means fat tires. Just look at many of the vehicles on Iceland.
Very informative videos and right to the point. Ty👍
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this and part 2--- I'm new to 4 wheeling-- and will be buying a lexus GX470 (softroader as you call it) and I've learned a LOT from you... thanks again.. (and NO I'm not going to be rock crawling..). I am a REAL softroader only.. :)
The example of track width on tanks proving that wide tyres don't give better flotation on soft ground is a little iffy, Ronny. Bulldozers that operate on swampy ground use wide tracks (swamp tracks can be up to a metre wide) and dozers that operate on hard ground use quarry tracks which may be less than 400mm wide. Using swamp tracks on hard ground reduces the dozers' pushing ability dramatically. So, in that case, ground pressure equals load carrying ability.
Interesting video, using correct tyre pressure for the terrain is definitely important and underrated.I just got back from central Australia and navigated sand,rocks, corrugations and didn't get a single puncture.Take the time to air down when required can save you the time and trouble of using your spare.
I'm enlightened LOL Guru Ron.
Can't but agree with all you said.
Min wheel size is 18" on mine, with a 265/65x18 AT
they are down to 14psi (1 Bar) for sand and 20 - 25 psi for tracks.
Glides over corrugations at 25psi.
I'm not a fan of mud (I don't like the cleaning)
We have little mud in Norway but every educated driver here knows that skinny tires are best for snow due to less resistance,,, that's why I have skinnier tires on 16" rims for winter and wider tires with 18" for summer on my Jeep WJ,,, also, most ppl have dedicated snow tires with softer rubber during winter months (it's mandatory), but many 4x4 drivers us also Mud+Snow tires, and then often studded.
I wish snow ❄️ tires were mandatory in my State. Lots of people don’t buy them and slide all over the place
My winter and summer tires are the same dimension and I have no problems on snow
265/70 r17
Perfectly explanation of the narrow sand tire!
A good explanation, but not perfect. Flotation on sand is a matter of PSI. The lower your PSI (pounds per square inch) the greater the flotation it's simple math. Contact area times psi equals vehicle weight.
That tank Gunner was F&$k*d! Lol....
Great vids mate, here in 118f' lake Havasu, Az. USA!
Whiplash 😂😂
Yeah, I saw that. Bet his ribs be hurtin'.
Skinny tires for mud, dig down to solid surface rather than floating on a layer of mud. See R2 Agricultural tires also known as "Rice and Cane" tires.
lmao the low profile landrover tire..
Oddly enough, I was looking at this yesterday.
Mate has a Disco 3 with 20" (?) wheels on it and he's looking at putting some better wheels/tyres on it.
We took the wheels off one side and put a couple of 16" wheels with 33" tyres under the wheelarches, just to see how it looked.
It looked... weird.
Even though the tyres barely fit under the arches, the wheels look comically small.
The Disco 3 is pretty heavy so I guess LR could argue that they HAD to fit 19" wheels so they could fit big brakes but, let's face it, if Toyota can get a 79 to stop using brakes that fit inside a 16" wheel so could LR if they wanted to.
Pretty sure that the main reason LR fit big wheels and low-profile tyres to their newer cars is simply a design choice.
Yep - A dilemma
Roadtyres (esp on huge rims) may slice the sidewall (pinch - on rocks / ruts) or crack the sidewall if lowered too much at all.. not a good recipe for anything off Asphalt.
Too bad a lot of Luxo wagons have "huuge brake disks -for racing - and can't take smaller rims, and no guard clearance (or lift kit - due to very complex suspension / monocoque ) for bigger tyres.
Shows flash ain't everything. j
The considerations for sand tyres are side wall height, a lower ply rating and also the higher the tyre diameter the more sluggish your 4x4 will be
"U've got this tinly ittle footprint" That's what she said! xD
Thank you, just new to 4wd, done a bit a work but still new
Thanks Ronny
Awesome Ronny, As a newbie 4x4 these points were great. Cheers from Tassie! Edit* P.S we have snow :D
Smiling!
Good one there Ronny! Like them all and agree with them.
The discovery is a very good 4X4 but you can't fit smaller rims so not really suitable for hard off road driving. Land Rover has basically gone upmarket now anyway and are not really building vehicles for off road life anymore.
The older ones may be capable off road but the new ones sure like like a Yuppies Carpark crawler these days.
Yep, and Land Rover wonders why the Grenadier is getting such attention. It's their customer base that they left behind in pursuit of the SUV crowd.
Due to having such large brakes the disco 4 3.0l can only fit specific 18 inch wheels at the smallest but with a set of 285 60 18s you can let them down to 15 psi on the sand no probs! One better is the disco 4 2.7 which can still fit 17s as the brakes are the same as a disco 3. 285 65 17 will fit but the spare has to be let down to fit in the hole.
I agree it's a shame the new Land rovers are all plastic and the defender is now dead.but keeps us Toyota fans happy to see the Land rover owners admitting defeat and crossing over to the correct side🤣
Yeah. They're for skiers and real estate agents.
I love watching y’all Aussies more than our states guys. If a Aussie thinks it’s bs, y’all say it’s bullshit. If a US guy thinks it’s bs, well we candy coat over sensitive feelings. Stay true Aussies, we love you here in Tennessee
Please watch Dash cams Australia. You will see a really difference to USA/Russia.
Boy do we hate bullshit and injustice
I love your vids!!! All facts and no BS. keep up the good work. I am a beginner and I have learnt so much from your vids. Thanks
as always super informative Ronny! Keep up the great content!
The actual only terrain where wider tires are mandatory are peat bogs. Up here in Canada i work on them and trust me, narrow tires will get you dug deep in seconds
Very comprehensive and informative
Thanks Ronny
I never in my life thought I was see Georgia plates in a Ronny Dahl video haha. Georgia native here.
First time viewer here. Actually most of the advice also takes for dual sport riders, as my self.
Don't fall into manufactures PR, that is important.
Pro-tip:- Get a TPMS that displays temperature info and it can help you optimise tyre pressures on any surface.
Look at your tyre temp's on the road, air-down when you go off-road and look at your tyre temp's again.
Once you've got an idea of what your normal tyre temp's are, you can air down more if you need to and you'll know when your tyres are starting to overheat.
Also, another tip related to TPMS:- If you've got steel wheels, you can drill a 2nd hole in the rim and fit a 2nd valve so you can mount external TPMS sensors permanently.
You are exactly correct about side walls of mud tyres being the issue with pressures on sand but in my experience it's about a 15psi problem.
Standard 31" Grandtrek at 30psi are like my now 33" mud tyres at 15psi.
The Grandtrek's are just way better on super soft sand
BUT.... all tyres are different and for myself I'll never run mud's on a beach because when you hit the really soft sections you have less air to go down if your already at 15psi on mud terrains
Thanks Ronny for ta effort and video you out done ya self and i learnt ALOT.
Good show, I agree with most points. I live and play in the Malaysian part of Borneo, and have been to the Indonesian side as well. I have also been part of a Malaysian expedition that shipped cars over to Africa and traversed the Sahara (over some 40 days) from Sudan to Morocco, about half of which was across the desert (as opposed to roads). On tyres for sand, I agree that MTs can be used since all our Malaysian cars ran on sponsored Kumho MTs and managed the dunes. It must be noted, however, our local guides were running near-bald HTs and ATs, and their vehicles generally had an easier time in the soft stuff. Better, more-experienced drivers? Perhaps, but that would also require us to recognise which tyres these better drivers chose. It wasn't because they were poor, since they were paid very well for the job. As for skinnies versus wide on slippery mud, we have many trucks running on timber logging trails that are generally well maintained, and can support laden trucks up to 80 tonnes. However, they are meant to be used only when dry, and all heavy vehicles stop moving as soon as it rains, wherever they are. Light 4X4s are used to go pick up the crews, and these light utes run skinny tyres, the idea being to cut through the thin layer of slippery mud (about 50mm thick) and reach the hard stuff underneath. Wide tyres used by recreational drivers don't fare so well on these tracks. It is not really about which can or cannot, but more abut which is BETTER for what conditions.
Oh, in Sahara, we ran 14psi (1 Bar) as "normal" and further down to 7PSI (0.5 Bar) when someone got stuck. Stayed at these pressures for several days, until we got back on what passed for a "road", whereupon we aired up to 20psi.
I agree with 99% of what you said in this video but I do remember driving out of Israelite Bay one trip it was raining and the clay track was slippery with deep bog holes everywhere. I had skinny AT's and a low powered 2.8 pretend turbo, all the other boys had wide tyres and more horsepower. I could idle through the bogholes and had no problems steering while the other guys had to gun it through and had trouble staying on the track. The skinnies cut through the slippery clay and gripped underneath whereas the fatties slipped on top of surface. But that's only once.
Your a legend Ronny love your work keep up these educational videos 👍🤙
Fantastic information Ronny, thanks for your effort to get it out here, cheers and stay safe.
Wide tires on sand is the easiest to believe. Wanting to float logic says large footprint, but as you point out wider means more rolling resistance and your footprint is already pretty large when aired down.
Miff number 10 - The town of Finke was originally called "Think" but then Ronnie visited.
I was just wondering about the reasons behind lowering the psi on the trailer tires because the plan is to build myself semi-offroadish camper trailer for family vacations. At first I wasn't really considering either way to be the "right" way, but this explanation makes sense, so it will have lower psi also then. Just the info and explanation I needed at this moment, thumbs up.
Hey Ronnie try staying with longer tyre then saying wider I understand you but others don't thanks for the good work and fun things you all do in Aussie
Hey Ronnie, not sure if you've ever seen this vid, but goes to show...Skinny wheels!!!
Great video Ronny 👍👍👍 though u can’t get through to some people, still stubborn to the end, mainly to lazy to let their tyres down, especially the entry to Fraser Island, (Inskip Point) , so funny the utube videos on that place, also good point about the people with lots of power thinking that will get them through, all points I believe true on your video, P.S I was at the same Xmas party as you recently but to shy to say hello to you and Torbs, (big personalities) I regret it though, should of said hello, never mind next time, take care, looking forward to next video thanks buddy 👍👍👍 Louis
I'm new to your channel and somewhat new to off roading so I have little experience to argue for or against anything you say. I do value all that you say and will take most of it to heart. The only issue that you may want to look into is the bit about Tank tracks. I say this because if you research the German invasion of Russia in WW2 when they had mud and snow to deal with their narrow tank tracks were insufficient and caused them to get stuck. They tried some temporary "fixes" via just attaching slightly wider tracks and eventually just had to re-engineer them, and for all newer Tanks they came with wider tracks. They attributed some of the Russian victories not just the the T-34's sloping armor but to wider tracks that enabled them to move better in mud, snow, and marshy ground. How does this relate to 4x4ing, lol heck if I know other than your reference to long tank tracks. It is quite okay to tell me I'm wrong because it won't be the first time and I may have misunderstood you or the WW2 video's. Either way I hope to keep learning until they put me in a casket.
Awesome video !!! loved the length of the tyre tip.
I always thought wide tyres were better than skinnys. But there are a lot of die hards still set on skinnys. Thank you for clearing that up!
on my play tires, i air straight down to 15 as soon as i hit the trail
for comfort first and foremost!
I think the wide vs narrow debate is so contentious because there are so many variables. Driving style is just as important as conditions.
Also it seems to be more of a ratio thing. A 235/85/16 is "skinnier" than a 235/75/15 even though they are both 235mm wide. The latter is a much shorter tire; making it wider in comparison to it's height. But the former would be better off road because it's "longer" (fewer rotations per mile/km) just like was mentioned in the video.
Also ratio of tire size to vehicle size (length, width and weight). The 235/75/15 would be better on a small stock setup because the vehicle would maintain it's original characteristics. Thus be more predictable.
I agree about wider tires causing drag, but if the tires have side-biters, then that could be advantageous. Also tire weight comes into play here. Too much unsprung weight can overwork the suspension and cause breakages or cause the vehicle to be difficult to control. Also drag could be negated by more power or more gearing. There's a point of diminishing returns to every situation. Balance is key.
Top video quality 100% I think this one has turned out the best. On ya
SAND: How does floating on sand compare to float on snow. The Ratrac (for ski slopes) has also wide chains in order not to sink. Isn't at the end the amount of the area counting? Construction work lorries do have 4 axles with 4+4+2+2 tires in order to have more flotation. Don't wide tires have more with and lenght when in right pressure? Thanks for your cool explanatory videos!
Lowering your tire pressure for sand is about displacement and surface area. A wider tire is going to benefit for sure. Also tank tracks are wide. Maybe not proportional to their length but they are wide, they don’t need to be wider since they get their additional surface area from length
Big high profile and wide tyres are heavy therefore harder on drive line,fuel consumption and drains power
I really wish we could get these trucks I'm the US, closest thing we have now is the gladiator but it's still much larger than this
Another great video mate 👍👍👍
What's your opinion on LT vs P rated tires? The new 4Runners stock size comes in both: P is SL load range, LT is E load range, I went with P since that one feels much better on the road and saves on gas, and I only do mild off-roading. While i agree with your points about airing down all the way, I'm worried about the weaker sidewalls on the P rated ones when airing down.
Also one thing I noticed you didn't discuss... I wonder how much clearance one loses when airing down.
Believe it or not, it actually matters what kind of sand you are trying to traverse (geologist here). Blow sand derived from a pre-existing dune sandstone, like in a lot of areas in Utah, is maimly round quartz grains that act like ball bearings: there is very little friction because the grains rotate. Wide tires work better because there is so little grip. However, blow or beach sand from granite or non-dune sandstone sources has more angular feldspar grains and therefore is more "grippy" on the tires' bottoms and sides. Skinnies work better because of greater frictional contact area.
Another super informative video.. Keep up the great work on sharing your knowledge. I am sure many of us do not know this..😎
I live in Central QLD where there's no grading - they just lay down rock shrapnel every six months, especially up to Gun Powder from Isa and CC.
Here's one for the mix: if you don't run 50psi cold, you'll get a little rock pyramid that will stand up and punch through your sidewall.
Some advice for the GRR, Bloomfield Track South of Isa and the Tanamai Track, after Wolf Creek.
All the Central NSW, WA and QLD Stations just shake their heads when reading these generalisations.
Great video thank you Ronnie!
you choose the tyre best suited to the terrai you will play in and on
Keep up the good work Ronny!
So far 6 people that don't let their tyres down have disliked the video.
Probably those dudes with ugly over-lifted heavy duty trucks and the tiny little sidewalls who can't air down
😂😂🤣🤣
some tractor have thin tires to be able to pass through the crop and not damage it. Normally they have wider tires for more traction
Myth 5 probably comes from the days of "rag" tyres because I always had rag tyres and they got a better footprint in mud when aired down I always had the old bar tread so plenty of sidewall tread 6.00, 6.50, 7.00, 7.50 R16 no steel belting at all 8 ply nylon
Airing down tires is good especially on rock crawling, especially steep, and sharp due to ur theres jsur sliding especially on a rainy day, so you need that tire to deflate, and wrap around the tires as much as you could, but ofc not too much.
Deflating ur tires too much, will damage ur side walls.
Isn’t there a higher possibility of severe tyre damage, or even tyre failure, if you’re bouncing around due to not airing down beforehand?
I notice you don't run bead locks on your wheels. I've also seen video of a truck popping as many as 3 tires off the bead driving off camber with aired down tires. How do you manage without bead locks? Do you use narrow wheels (rims)?
Great video Ronny, there's no substitute for experience and I mostly learn't the hard way!
I can tell you 100 % that low pressure damages tyres quite quickly - had to change a tyre after driving off road for a longer distance, it was full of black sooth...
My man, 20 psi on my tires barely deflates them, I gotta take them all the way to around 10 for it to deflate properly
I'm from new England I swear by my Firestone destination AT2s handle every element.
Ronnie I used kumho tyres which failed miserably and cracked all up the side walls the reason they wouldn’t exchange them after on 7k was that I admitted airing down in different terrains this was against what they recommend
Hey Ronny
We should do a pizza cutter (skinny tyres) challenge bro
Dirty thumbs up mate
The science behind narrow and wide tyres is... Wide tyres give good lateral grip and narrow tyres give good longitudinal grip. Why ? You know how a sliding tyre has less grip and you need to regain traction before you can load the tyre again. It's the same thing with narrow and wide tyres. Picture a tyre rolling along, the part of the tyre that is flat on the road is stationary on the road and has time to attach to the road on a micro level. The part of the tyre that is being put down on the road and the part that is lifting off the road is travelling at a different speed and is not attached - effectively sliding and having less grip. The longer the contact patch the greater the amount of tyre attached compared to the amount being put down or lifting up so you have good longitudinal traction. When cornering hard the tyre has slip angles and the side walls of the tyre are being put down and lifted up in the same way as above. The problem is because the tyre is narrow the ratio of tyre attached to tyre being put down or lifted up is less so less grip on direction change. = Wide tyre for cournering and narrow and tall for longitudinal grip. Waldo's believe it or not.. do do do do do.
The greatest of all is the reliability of the TOYota...
"Fall for dees miffs" love Ronnie
Hey Ronny. I got a question about the rim size. My car has now "285/70-17" tires. I thought about changing them to "33X12.5X15" or probably "32x11.5x15". They first ones are just about 1 cm more in diameter and about 3 cm wider, the second ones are just slightly smaller than the originals, but they have quite a lot of rubber more. The tyre size does still fit without any modifications. Do you think, such 15"-rims with these tires are better for offroad driving? The entire stuff about tires and their size is some mysterious science to me, and I haven't tried as many different tires as you already have. Maybe you have some advice for this matter. Thanks.
What about when you have 19 or 20 inch wheels but 35x12.5 or larger tires?
What size rim are you running Ronny? I want to go 16's with more rubber
Haha! I am a victim of large wheels, and wide tires. Its more laziness than mistaken. I had a 2006 tahoe that i drove in soft sand. Truth be told the 265 tires on a 17" wheel didnt help me. Got stuck in the mud in the middle of summer. I went to a 32" tire that is 305 wide on 20" wheels and i floated over the same terrain i got stuck in. I also drove an h2 hummer with 315 tires on 18" wheels. Stopped to take a picture and i got stuck. Took my tahoe with the 305 on 20 wheels to the same spot loaded with an icebox and water and i glided right out of that same spot.
All my friends are running 16 and 18's with 285 tires I still don't listen to them and run 305's on 20s as it works for me and I feel giving your speech I may start to experiment with lowering tire pressure on 20s and seeing the difference between what I had and what I have
On snow: If you're driving on snow that is not deep, a narrow tire will do fine. If you are driving on snow that is deep, like 1 meter+, get the biggest and widest tire you can get on the smallest possible rim. 37"+ on 15" rims.
What type/brand of tyres does Ronny have/use?
I believe they are Maxxis buckshot II mud terrains
225/95R16 Road Grippers on 16x6 Toyota tubeless rims go alright.
I love this Beast I wish I could get one for the safari cruising here in my country
With a Disco 4 or late model land rover your options to go down to an 18" rim are very limited. I know Compomotive PD1881 which is 18" alloy will fit on a Disco 4 (I have a set of these with 265/60/R18 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx's on.). And Tuffant do 18" steels for them. I think you can get Land Rover 18" rims on, but you do need to shave the brake caliper down to clear the spokes of the rim... Ive heard of owners doing this, but never seen it done.
Its worth doing if you find your using the Disco on serious terrain. Even with an 18" rim, the amount of airing down you can do will not be much, but on 18" rim you could put something like a Cooper ST Maxx on it, which has a toughened sidewall so they can take it. I'm not so dilligent with airing down as I should be... My Disco 2 has 16" rims with 245/75/16's I could air them down a fair bit, last time I went out, I didn't bother. And there was one section, where it would have helped tremendously. Seriously, carry a decent compressor in the car and air down them sodding tyres.
Just want to clarify something, 305/70R16 are better than getting 285/75R16? I’m struggling to choose between the two.
Hey Ronny. So whats the width of your tyres?
Hey I have a question, how big of a lift and tires do you have and how much ground clearance? I am in the US and want to get into 4 wheeling. If I got a Jeep JL Rubicon and put a 2 inch lift and 35 inch tires on it would it be capable enough to do the things you do in your videos? Or do you need much more extensive modifications? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I love your videos.