I'm glad I found this channel since I've gotten some of the best information regarding tires and kit for my offroad trips. I carry two additional items: An airbag jack and an air powered impact gun to get the lug nuts off. Anyone who's struggled to jack up a truck and get 8 reluctant lugnuts off in 100+ degree weather like we have here in Texas and elsewhere will appreciate this. I'm in my Seventies now, not a young man anymore so any task's difficulty gets compounded by my waning strength and poorer tolerance to heat. Anything that helps me get the job done quicker with less strain greatly adds to my ability to keep offroading, something I've been doing for over 50 years and and hope to keep doing well into my Eighties!
Great vid, but I have a bit of info for you to clarify a point or two. 1) the lube that comes with the tire patch kit is actually a key component that reacts with the plugs to help them melt and seal into the hole. Technically, the lube is a vulcanizing agent. So use it! It’s not just to make it easier to insert, it’s key to sealing the hole. 2) not wider! Common misunderstanding when airing down. Your tread width is what it is, it doesn’t magically get wider when you air down. It gets Longer! Airing down increasing the square inches of tire contact patch by lengthening the tread patch in contact with the ground. Hope that helps. Btw the hub trick is pretty slick
The total contact area of the tire increases to match your psi. (Example: if you have 40 in^2 at 40 psi, you will have 80 in^2 at 20 psi per tire, assuming no weight change. Neat note, if you take your total weight and divide it by your tire pressure, you get your total contact area for all tires. Physics is neat.) This actually happens in all directions, but yes, most of the change is along the circumference of the tire.
@justinbiondi airing down is not an exact science, actually. It's different from one tire to another. Most tires don't even change shape until you get below 15psi. airing down is generally a bad idea unless you really need to increase performance because, you risk popping a bead unless you have beadlocks.
@@tracydrum6733Yeah, he’s wrong. It’s okay, we can still be friends. But think it through, the tread blocks don’t magically grow in width depending on tire pressure.
@@nathanwoods2088 You still didn't listen (or read). Sidewalls. Not tread. Sidewalls. (yes, what you said is also true, that's just not he was talking about, he was talking about how the sidewalls get weak)
@@DISOPtv Most of the advice he gave was to get someone off a trail and back to civilization though. I figure this is the same. It's not meant to get you back from the rubicon to Florida.
Great idea. I have a Jeep JKU and just got a 4Runner. Was thinking about this being a bummer the other day. Being able to share a spare would be great! How exactly would I configure this would I carry two one to go from JKU to 4R and another to go from 4R to JK? Or just build what need when/if I need it?
Great video, thanks for putting this out there. I bought my first jeep in 1976 and have owned at least 1 4x4 ever since, so needless to say, i have a little bit of experience in my bag of tricks. #1. Those tire kits are full of stuff that just isn't necessary. You need the file, glue and punch and plug, and extra valves. That's it. (I don't like long valves and I don't like metal valves - I want them to be short and pliable so they don't get broken off by rocks) Also, when plugging a hole, note the direction the object went into the tire and run both the file and the plug directly in line with that direction. Not lining up directly with the direction of the hole can make it almost impossible to get the plug in, as demonstrated in your video. I've used up to 7 or 8 plugs to 'temporarily' repair sidewall cuts. I say 'temporarily' even though that always last the duration of the run, and the trip home, and often for way too long afterwords. #2, De-beaded tires. If the tire is still on the vehicle, I can almost ALWAYS re-bead a tire by simply putting the compressor on and then using my hands and a little muscle, doesn't take all that much, to pull the tire toward towards the broken bead. It will seem like it's not working, but just be patient and before you know it, it holds and then pops. I can't tell you how many times people tell me, "You can't do that, that wont work".. and it almost always does. NOTE: Depending on where the bead is broken, or if it's broken all the way around, you may, or may not need to raise the tire off the ground. #3. Airing down PSI... Love the pre-set screw on deflators. On my old CJ's, which way about 3500-3800 lbs, I usually ran 3 to 5 PSI depending on terrain and objective. On my 4 door Wrangler which weighs about 7000 lbs, I air down to 10 - 12 PSI depending on terrain and objective. In some conditions, sand or snow I'll air down even lower. As long as you don't have a lead foot and crawl slowly, you will not pop a bead. If you get crazy, all bets are off. #4. Airing Up. What ever works for you is fine. I have the 4-way, but usually use it one tire at a time. Weird huh? I use, and love, the quick connect/disconnect nozzles. This allows you to place it on the valve and walk away and do something else. Also a good note: As far as speed, yes some compressors, air hoses, high flow nozzles etc, will pump faster/more air than others, but ultimately you are limited by the amount of air your valve will allow to pass. #5 Jacks. There's some great options out there these days, how much do you want to spend? Me, I've used a high lift jack since my first jeep. It's indispensable! I love them. I believe if you don't like the High-Lift jack, you don't understand it!. Once you know the nuances, it's a great tool! #6. Inflating a tire with flammable substance. A little is a lot! You do not need to spray the entire circumference of the wheel. Simply spray about 2 seconds in a small area, and toss a match in there. Works every time. That said, It's been decades since I've needed to do this as I can always do it with the wheel on the vehicle, without using flammables. #6. Spares. Your spacer is cool, but really, always carry a spare. It's YOUR responsibility to at least have a spare for your vehicle, and chances are, it's rare that you can't get a spare going with today's repair kits. Again, thanks for the great video.
The reason I mounted my compressor under the hood instead of inside the cab is because my wife is usually asleep in the passenger seat by the time we get back to the pavement to air up and I don’t want to wake her up. A happy wife is worth the slightly increased wear on the compressor for me.
A ratchet strap AROUND THE Circumference of the tire is the best way to put even pressure to help rebead a tire without using starting fluid or a dump tank, a propane tank that has a 1" ball valve and a nozzle that puts in a whole buncha air RFN and seats the bead. Can also be used to shoot potatoes at your buddies when they are off taking a piss in the bushes
Yep, around the circumference is the way to go. Another key to that method is removing the valve core so you can get the maximum flow and pressure to seat the bead. Once the bead pops back on put the core back in and air it up normally. Never had a problem doing it that way.
@@landonknight1631 When you seat the bead with a ratchet strap there's no explosive inflation. The bead just slides into place and maybe you get a pop as it seats, but there's no pressure in the tire, so no danger unless you're dumb enough to stick a finger in as it seats.
Nate thanks...just for reference...those stems you have are made to only install with tire off wheel I beleive. And requires a separate tool. But I use the Colby emergency stem kit. Instalation from outside the wheel. Tire on! Hope this helps. Appreciate your vids Nate!
I have used those stems... you definitely have to de-bead the tire and push the sidewall down... but they just pull into place with a plier pretty easy. I'll have to check out the Colby kit... sounds easier.
@@OutdoorAutoDraper make a tool where you just grease up the valve stem and force it through a cone and you don't need to debead the tyre for mounting valve stems.
I carry a morrflate quad as well as a single hose with my arb twin. The thing I like about the morrflate is not having to sit by each tire in uncomfortable weather.
I've built a few with hoses, T's and a regulator. As long as you have air compressor-->regulator-->4 hoses you're good. As long as all tires are hooked up; the tires will self balance to the adjusted pressure at the regulator.
I think it gets overlooked, but having even a small air tank with a pressure regulator can do a lot for filling up tires and help save your compressor by keeping water out.
Not really a hack, but I simply never drive on the road aired down. As soon as I'm done with a trail, I immediately air back up. Even if it's for a 5 mile stretch. Sure, it takes time. But that saves wear and prevents potential heat issues. Outstanding video!
Great video very good instruction on base problems you will encounter if you drive the bush. Spent lotta years using a 2wheel drive and a set of chains getting over some amazing country in northern Alberta and BC during all the seasons of the year back in the 70's.
Monster valve from powertank. Mechanical bottle Jack with axle cradle adapter (swag off-road) and run up/down with m18 electric impact. Assorted blocks of wood. Small tarp to lay on and not in mud or show. A snow shovel. And much more. Good videos.
Tire cheat 2) The other best way to protect sidewalls is run more plies at lower pressures. For example, M/T Baja Pro XS is 4 ply, Baja Boss is 3 ply, BFG is 3 ply, nearly everything else is only 2 ply. This is reflected in the tire weight per size, get the heaviest tire in your size, it should be about 8 pounds heavier than everything else in the exact same size.
Funny, I'm here shopping new tires, and trying to find the lightest 34-35" I can. 😅 35x11.5 Falken vs 35x12.5 saves 10lbs. But D load vs E load will also save some weight. My FZJ80 currently weighs 5500lbs with me in it. I can't see it getting much heavier than about 6000 static weight, and even with two more passengers MAYBE 6500. E load is just over kill, but I have had extra plies save side walls from getting cut, so I'm still on the fence for the next tire.
@TheCajunGaijin Thick sidewalls don't air down well and if you do you run the risk of the bead coming off. They don't have the same forgiveness and flex as soft tires do. So you have to pick your battle there...
I think it depends on what you are doing with your rig. Heavy tires come with a long laundry list of downsides. If you regularly cut sidewalls for whatever reason, then the heavier tires may be a good idea. I've cut 2 tires 48 years, and much of that in rocky environments. I'm super watchful of where my tires are going, so for me it's all about light weight. A rough rule of thumb is take the extra tire weight x 4, let's say 8 x 4=32, then multiply by 10 = 320. That extra 8 pounds per tire will have about the same performance degradation as 320lbs extra in your vehicle
I love my Morrflate compressor and 4 way hose. Sure it takes a bit of time to get set up, but I almost always finish airing up and have everything packed away before anyone else that I am with finishes doing one tire at a time. But that largely comes down to the type of compressors they are using. I can do 15 to 35 psi in less than 5 minutes on my 33's.
You can use a ratchet strap down the center of the tread to help seat the bead of a tire. As the strap squeezes the tire, it forces the bead out. Just remember to release the tension as soon as the bead seats. You don't want the strap to break from the air pressure and go flying. Used this method in a tire shop fur years.
If you're going with a small group take a small/ cheap drone to scout ahead if you need to. two of my buddies and I went on a small trip, and the lead vehicle put us into a wash which was only suitable for side by side vehicles, for the last 4 miles. we were able to make it out but had we had a drone to scout the area we would have been able to avoid the issue all together.
20 years ago, I used a cheap tire plug kit to fix a tire on an VW Baja bug . Funny thing is it still holds air today. I’ve spent a lot of time working at a tire shop and the cheap plug kits worked just fine.
@@derekcoaker6579 I don't get flats often (hardly ever!) but have never had a mushroom plug fail, and I thought (meaning I'm not sure, but they might be) the mushroom plugs were more secure due to their design, as inside air-pressure pushes on the "mushroom" top of the plug and flattens it out some but there's not enough pressure to force the plug back out the hole. But again, I'm never had either type -- tacky/ribbon or mushroom -- fail EXCEPT on "unplug-able" too-thin-walled/too-flexible scooter tires (as mentioned) where NO type of plug will hold. So if you had either type on-board your car/truck, you'd be fine. I've never looked up any comparison-testing of the 2 types of plugs, but that would be interesting. Regardless of the result, as I said neither type has ever failed me so I can't say which is "best." The MAIN thing is to CARRY a plug-kit (!), and as well a 12v COMPRESSOR (of course!). IIRC, the brand I got (YEARS ago) is "Stop & Go" -- it came in a very small pouch (yellow lettering & purple "tire tread" accent). No CO2 cylinders were included but apparently they have those nowadays (google their website). But there all ALL kinds of mushroom plug kits seen on Amazon...not sure how good they are (tool-quality or rubber plug quality), would try to get a well-made one, and the Stop & Go brand seems to be quality. Now, I'm not sure which type of plug would fit my "off-road-focused" 33" Falken Wildpeak A/T3W tires on my Jeep Gladiator (Rubi) -- never had a flat and they are less likely to get one (compared to street-tires) -- but I guess I'll find out when if (when) it happens! ;-) Good luck, "Jeep Wave" (...because "It's a Jeep thing") -- BR
In my kit, I added a very small vial of dish soap. Sometimes its hard to find where the leak is! You can combine the dish soap in a mug with some water and pour the soapy water over the tyre to find the source of the leak, can use the same for radiator hoses etc. if they get a leak.
I agree with the hose ends getting gunked up when they drag across the ground not to mention you get dirtier wrapping/curling of dirty hoses. I have done a few variations of air up systems and now have settled on added air hose plumbing under my F150 with a connector at each corner of the truck and 4 short hoses that are the right length that they stay off the ground. My hose or ends typically never touch the ground. I had talked to a tire engineer from Falken years ago and he told me if you are aired down to ~20 psi give or take a couple then you should be good for a few miles on pavement if you keep it under 50 mph. I have done this quite a bit and keep an eye on tire pressures while on pavement and have never seen them go up more than 1 psi indicating they are not too hot. I have also checked the sidewalls for warmth and have not really felt much difference. He noted that many people have run tires for months/years ~15 psi low and not noticed especially before TPMS was common and required. That is on of the main reasons TPMS's were required, so many people ran around with low tires it wasted fuel and added to greenhouse gasses.
I would also add the Colby emergency valve stem to your list. If you get the RED you don’t need a wrench to install it. One of these saved me when I got a flat with my hot rod. I don’t have a spare because of the different tire sizes and keep spare Colby stems,plugs and air pump. The stem cracked and started leaking and it was super easy to install. I was on my way in less than 5 minutes. There are other tools to install rubber valve stems but they need lube to work and even then can be super hard to install stems with. The Colby stems work so good you could actually use them permanently in place of rubber or metal stems.
I have 4 oversized aftermarket wheels and a stock steel spare wheel. The tires are oversized, the spare wasn't. My spare tire now is still narrower but the circumference is the same as the other 4. Resetting a bead(s). A ratchet strap around the circumference will help push the sidewalls out against the rim, ideally sealing it to fill with air.
Great video, thx! I. carry two Milwaukee M18 inflators, I can inflate two tires at once and have spare if one breaks. Also, you can still buy inner tubes for most tire sizes that could work in a pinch and not take up too much space/weight to carry. I like the Coyote deflators and Safety Seal tires plug kit, both are made in USA.
All your ideas are very good and very well fought out the only thing I do different than you on getting the bead back on is I have a circumference strap that goes all the way around the outside of the tire with ratchet action it works very well has never let me down
I just have smallish, but rated for large trucks & RVs, compressor with a short-ish hose but a long 12V cable that alligator clips onto my starter battery. I got it at O'Reilly's. A longer wire takes up less space in my rig than a longer hose. I don't care how long it takes to air up my tires. I've got all day anyway. I'm out there to be out there. Not to rush to the next destination.
This is the first of your videos that I've seen. I usually go into this type of video with pretty low expectations, but I found your video to have a lot of "meat" to it! Good job!
Run the ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire. Tighten strap to force sidewalls out toward bead. Remove valve core to slow maximum air flow. Air up until bead seats then reinstall valve core.
You mentioned about taking the battery pack that has an air compressor integrated in its system. Good idea. We went a different route. Since we had Ryobi tools, they had an air compressor that runs on the same battery system as our tools, the One+. It's "budget friendly". It's not $8-900. We got our air compressor from Ryobi for less than $170. It's not part of the electrical system of our FJ. We take and store it when needed. Hope this helps.
I agree with multi tire inflators, however I'm very good at setting it up, tons of practice lol and they all have quick connectors and I'm up and connected to my air compressor in under 45 seconds
You know what's great for airing down? Your re-inflation gear. Make a DIY 4 tire inflator, put a gauge and a gate valve on it, deflate all your tires at once and don't bother with the extra gear just to deflate.
I mean, I just use the old ARB ez deflator, like the ones he's saying to not bother with. It's all brass with a steel shaft, and other than some O rings, will probably last me a lifetime. I don't really get the hype for airing down fast, less than 1 minute a tire is pretty okay with me. Plus, it's just part of the process, gets you out of the seat for a little bit.
Great info, I have been using my ryobi air compressor from Home Depot priced at $150. It’s been 5 years and it still works, half the price of fancy ones and it airs up my stock tire sized tundra when off-roading no problem. Sometimes less is more.
Im pretty sure NRS straps are holding my life together! HAHAHAH The tire spacer idea is brilliant! My "hack" is to have a diverse crew to wheel with. Some trades people as well as those in the medical field make a great team!
That is a good Hack... and yes... nrs straps hold my trucks together and even my pants up sometimes... we are a rafting family so we have been using these for a long time.
Never heard of the hub adapter before either. Good Idea. I don't travel in groups often, but it drives me crazy to watch other channels like @ExpeditionOverland where they have a fleet of different vehicles and they are all carrying a ton of stuff and not really taking advantage of the fact they have this purpose built convoy.
Thank you for all of this valuable info! We usually have newer tires on our rig but we have gotten by for way too long on luck. Will be ordering a couple new items for our toolbox.
I have covered little bits of this stuff in other videos but I get questions on Air up & Down and other related Items I figured it was time to consolidate it all into one video...
i have a three gallon air tank to get 140 psi out of. it is regulated to 31 psi. for airing up. and use a air line locking cap. but yes those gismos for dropping psi are good to have.
Always carry rated towing and yanking(snap) straps, with shackles, preferably soft shackles. Also, a properly sized, and trusted, jack... Whether Hi-Lift, or any other variation or style.... Just know that it works for your vehicle's height and whatever most likely situations you may encounter.
I choose to use Makita portable hand held air compressors. They use 18v makita batteries, I have a bunch of those. A battery can inflate three to four tirers. I have 38s on my Jeep. It has a digital read out, and you can set the pressure that you want the pump to stop. I have four of them and that makes the task fairly fast.
@@cooksadventures8748 Great minds think alike. lol The newest model inflates even faster. I still have to use a velcro strap to keep it going though. Wist they would have an auto trigger lock.
I’ve heard the morrflate guy on the snailtrail podcast say schrader valves have a max flow of 1.5 cfm. If you use one of the 4 hose systems, you can shove 6 cfm in there and won’t back pressure a fancy compressor as much……and won’t overheat it as easily
Yup... I called that out in the video... the advantage to those 4 hose systems is the heat reduction.... the other solution is to change your valves to high flow ones from a company like Apex
@@OutdoorAuto my bad then! Sorry for starting out with the downer comment. This video is awesome. Really appreciate all the excellent info you’ve been putting out there.
For mismatched tire sizes, put them on the rear axle and lock your ARB. This will prevent spinning the spider gears, which is what can wear out with mismatched tires.
30 mph = 50 kmphr. A Canadian. We had to figure that all out in the 1970's when we went to the metric system. Most towns are 7 miles apart. Your gallon is actually metric, because your quart is a litre. We had to convert the imperial measurement to a metric equivalent.
in my decades of driving very rough trails. i have never damage any of my valve stems. buy the short rubber ones and they are pretty well safe from rocks. the hard steel ones will get hurt. and only once i hurt a sidewall. never had a flat off road.
Great info. I have one of the NAPA twin compressors similar to the ones Morrflate and a couple other companies sell. I only air one tire at a time and I always finish before the guys with the quad setups. I was in the process of switching tire carriers and went trail riding without a spare with a group. I have a TJ and I carry a TJ to JK wheel adapter for the reason you mentioned. As luck would have it I cut a tire on the trail and I couldn’t find anyone in the group willing to give up their spares. Lol. I now carry a spare all the time. Lol
Concerning spare tires, make sure it's not past the expiration date. Maybe five years ago, I had to use my spare tire. About 1/4 a mile down the road, the side wall blew out. Also having a full size spare means when you replace it, you don't have to order a weird sized donut.
Great video! One thing you didn't consider in your discussion about 4 tire inflators is that they aren't as hard on your compressor. You get less back pressure, thus less heat with a 4 tie hose, and heat kills compressors. Your typical Schrader value is only rated for about 150 LPM. So the restriction comes from there as well as the single hose for the compressor. For example, I have a 300 LPM compressor. So if I use a single hose with it, I'm "wasting" about 150 LPM, or half of my airflow. Guess what happens when you do that? Yup, you generate heat, which is hard on the compressor, AND effects your duty cycle.
Cheap double pump compressors from Amazon work great. I use two at the same time, I always get my tires up to street pressure before anyone. But this is from sand pressure at 8psi.
I don't understand the popularity of those valve core deflators either! I have a set similar to yours, take a lap screwing the on, then a lap screwing them off. Easy peasy. I use two $50 amazon digital air compressors to air up. One for each side, i'm done in about 10 minutes. They have worked great for almost 5 years now! (Plus i can move them i to whatever rig i'm riding in for the day!)
Based on the thumbnail I was skeptical about viewing this, but did so anyways. Glad I did. While the first few points were geared for the novice, I did learn from the second third (shout out to Car Talk) of your video. Also happy you included a link to the air chuck you discussed. About the adapter ring, anyone in my trail group better coordinate that before getting on the trail cus my spare is dedicated for my vehicle and they better supply the adapter ring.
My channel is a bit weird… it really is just a sharing/ teaching channel so we try to cover a variety of skill levels… you obviously saw that immediately
Spare control arm bolts and torque paint! My jeep lj front axle turned into a 3 link for a little! Found the bolt. But couldnt find the nut. Luckily my buddies tire carrier had a extra bolt i could take that used the same nut.
Who makes/where can you purchase the mini air hose reel shown in your video. I have seen this question asked multiple times without answer. I am very interested in getting one for my rig.
Sooo... at 21:10, I see you've created a "fuse" and are staying a safe distance away from the explosive force. But what about my buddy Walter? He's got his face right in there (although he IS doing the "safety squint")😂
Walter lives by a different code then the rest of us... I also have it on good authority that he once did this using axe body spray... so... who's the real legend?
I'm actually heard of someone taking a piece of rubber and just melting it to fill a hole. I've never tried it but I guess if you had to it's worth a shot. I guess maybe you could carry a bike tube or something like that to have some just rubber material to use.
Not all alcohol is the same when trying to use it as an antifreeze. Plus if you do not use enough alcohol the alcohol will simply condense allowing the water to freeze. Putting cheap alcohol in the freezer is a poor mans way of getting higher proof alcohol, the water freezes out leaving the alcohol behind.
@outdoorauto I would have sold you my 03 Sequoia thats 85% finished for over landing. And its clean 😊. I'm looking forward to see what you do to the Land cruiser
I want to do a sequoia build some day… I pretty much have to build and then sell cause I can’t afford to keep all these… but I really like the sequoias
Could you look at 110/120V tankless air compressors for hybrids like the new Landcruiser and Tacomas? They should be available way cheaper and more powerful. Maybe even look at cheap harbor freight air compressors and then removing and capping the tank connection?
I'm glad I found this channel since I've gotten some of the best information regarding tires and kit for my offroad trips. I carry two additional items: An airbag jack and an air powered impact gun to get the lug nuts off. Anyone who's struggled to jack up a truck and get 8 reluctant lugnuts off in 100+ degree weather like we have here in Texas and elsewhere will appreciate this. I'm in my Seventies now, not a young man anymore so any task's difficulty gets compounded by my waning strength and poorer tolerance to heat. Anything that helps me get the job done quicker with less strain greatly adds to my ability to keep offroading, something I've been doing for over 50 years and and hope to keep doing well into my Eighties!
Battery powered tools work better because you are not relying on an air compressor which may not have enough volume to drive an air tool.
Great vid, but I have a bit of info for you to clarify a point or two. 1) the lube that comes with the tire patch kit is actually a key component that reacts with the plugs to help them melt and seal into the hole. Technically, the lube is a vulcanizing agent. So use it! It’s not just to make it easier to insert, it’s key to sealing the hole.
2) not wider! Common misunderstanding when airing down. Your tread width is what it is, it doesn’t magically get wider when you air down. It gets Longer! Airing down increasing the square inches of tire contact patch by lengthening the tread patch in contact with the ground.
Hope that helps.
Btw the hub trick is pretty slick
The total contact area of the tire increases to match your psi. (Example: if you have 40 in^2 at 40 psi, you will have 80 in^2 at 20 psi per tire, assuming no weight change. Neat note, if you take your total weight and divide it by your tire pressure, you get your total contact area for all tires. Physics is neat.) This actually happens in all directions, but yes, most of the change is along the circumference of the tire.
@justinbiondi airing down is not an exact science, actually. It's different from one tire to another. Most tires don't even change shape until you get below 15psi. airing down is generally a bad idea unless you really need to increase performance because, you risk popping a bead unless you have beadlocks.
Your sidewalls get wider not your tread listen to the guy speak
@@tracydrum6733Yeah, he’s wrong. It’s okay, we can still be friends. But think it through, the tread blocks don’t magically grow in width depending on tire pressure.
@@nathanwoods2088 You still didn't listen (or read). Sidewalls. Not tread. Sidewalls. (yes, what you said is also true, that's just not he was talking about, he was talking about how the sidewalls get weak)
The idea of a hub adapter is genius... and makes a lot of sense if you are offroading with other makes and models of rigs on a regular basis!
I have smart friends 😂
Some wheels are hub centric, so don't ruin your buddy's wheel.
@@DISOPtv Most of the advice he gave was to get someone off a trail and back to civilization though. I figure this is the same. It's not meant to get you back from the rubicon to Florida.
Great idea. I have a Jeep JKU and just got a 4Runner. Was thinking about this being a bummer the other day. Being able to share a spare would be great! How exactly would I configure this would I carry two one to go from JKU to 4R and another to go from 4R to JK? Or just build what need when/if I need it?
❤@@TheCajunGaijin
This is one of the best channels on RUclips. Hands down.
Great video, thanks for putting this out there. I bought my first jeep in 1976 and have owned at least 1 4x4 ever since, so needless to say, i have a little bit of experience in my bag of tricks.
#1. Those tire kits are full of stuff that just isn't necessary. You need the file, glue and punch and plug, and extra valves. That's it. (I don't like long valves and I don't like metal valves - I want them to be short and pliable so they don't get broken off by rocks) Also, when plugging a hole, note the direction the object went into the tire and run both the file and the plug directly in line with that direction. Not lining up directly with the direction of the hole can make it almost impossible to get the plug in, as demonstrated in your video. I've used up to 7 or 8 plugs to 'temporarily' repair sidewall cuts. I say 'temporarily' even though that always last the duration of the run, and the trip home, and often for way too long afterwords.
#2, De-beaded tires. If the tire is still on the vehicle, I can almost ALWAYS re-bead a tire by simply putting the compressor on and then using my hands and a little muscle, doesn't take all that much, to pull the tire toward towards the broken bead. It will seem like it's not working, but just be patient and before you know it, it holds and then pops. I can't tell you how many times people tell me, "You can't do that, that wont work".. and it almost always does. NOTE: Depending on where the bead is broken, or if it's broken all the way around, you may, or may not need to raise the tire off the ground.
#3. Airing down PSI... Love the pre-set screw on deflators. On my old CJ's, which way about 3500-3800 lbs, I usually ran 3 to 5 PSI depending on terrain and objective. On my 4 door Wrangler which weighs about 7000 lbs, I air down to 10 - 12 PSI depending on terrain and objective. In some conditions, sand or snow I'll air down even lower. As long as you don't have a lead foot and crawl slowly, you will not pop a bead. If you get crazy, all bets are off.
#4. Airing Up. What ever works for you is fine. I have the 4-way, but usually use it one tire at a time. Weird huh? I use, and love, the quick connect/disconnect nozzles. This allows you to place it on the valve and walk away and do something else. Also a good note: As far as speed, yes some compressors, air hoses, high flow nozzles etc, will pump faster/more air than others, but ultimately you are limited by the amount of air your valve will allow to pass.
#5 Jacks. There's some great options out there these days, how much do you want to spend? Me, I've used a high lift jack since my first jeep. It's indispensable! I love them. I believe if you don't like the High-Lift jack, you don't understand it!. Once you know the nuances, it's a great tool!
#6. Inflating a tire with flammable substance. A little is a lot! You do not need to spray the entire circumference of the wheel. Simply spray about 2 seconds in a small area, and toss a match in there. Works every time. That said, It's been decades since I've needed to do this as I can always do it with the wheel on the vehicle, without using flammables.
#6. Spares. Your spacer is cool, but really, always carry a spare. It's YOUR responsibility to at least have a spare for your vehicle, and chances are, it's rare that you can't get a spare going with today's repair kits.
Again, thanks for the great video.
This is great stuff… thanks for taking the time.
The reason I mounted my compressor under the hood instead of inside the cab is because my wife is usually asleep in the passenger seat by the time we get back to the pavement to air up and I don’t want to wake her up. A happy wife is worth the slightly increased wear on the compressor for me.
That adds up 👍
Similar for me - but it is the dog. She is so scared of different noises and she is usually inside the truck when I air up.
A ratchet strap AROUND THE Circumference of the tire is the best way to put even pressure to help rebead a tire without using starting fluid or a dump tank, a propane tank that has a 1" ball valve and a nozzle that puts in a whole buncha air RFN and seats the bead. Can also be used to shoot potatoes at your buddies when they are off taking a piss in the bushes
Yep, around the circumference is the way to go. Another key to that method is removing the valve core so you can get the maximum flow and pressure to seat the bead. Once the bead pops back on put the core back in and air it up normally.
Never had a problem doing it that way.
Just be sure to be ready to release the strap asap once the bead seats lol
@@landonknight1631 When you seat the bead with a ratchet strap there's no explosive inflation. The bead just slides into place and maybe you get a pop as it seats, but there's no pressure in the tire, so no danger unless you're dumb enough to stick a finger in as it seats.
Yeah I use the ratchet strap method also. 👍
Nate thanks...just for reference...those stems you have are made to only install with tire off wheel I beleive. And requires a separate tool. But I use the Colby emergency stem kit. Instalation from outside the wheel. Tire on! Hope this helps. Appreciate your vids Nate!
I have used those stems... you definitely have to de-bead the tire and push the sidewall down... but they just pull into place with a plier pretty easy. I'll have to check out the Colby kit... sounds easier.
Colby kit is great since you don’t have to mess with the bead.
@@OutdoorAutoDraper make a tool where you just grease up the valve stem and force it through a cone and you don't need to debead the tyre for mounting valve stems.
I carry a morrflate quad as well as a single hose with my arb twin. The thing I like about the morrflate is not having to sit by each tire in uncomfortable weather.
@@JoshLC80 me too
@@BuzzyfuzzMe too, but I use the Thor version. It is awesome so far.
I've built a few with hoses, T's and a regulator. As long as you have air compressor-->regulator-->4 hoses you're good. As long as all tires are hooked up; the tires will self balance to the adjusted pressure at the regulator.
I think it gets overlooked, but having even a small air tank with a pressure regulator can do a lot for filling up tires and help save your compressor by keeping water out.
Not really a hack, but I simply never drive on the road aired down. As soon as I'm done with a trail, I immediately air back up. Even if it's for a 5 mile stretch. Sure, it takes time. But that saves wear and prevents potential heat issues. Outstanding video!
Super helpful! Great video
Thanks 🙏… we still need to team up on a video some day… next year you should join our budget build competition.
@@OutdoorAuto for sure, would love to meet up some day
Great video very good instruction on base problems you will encounter if you drive the bush. Spent lotta years using a 2wheel drive and a set of chains getting over some amazing country in northern Alberta and BC during all the seasons of the year back in the 70's.
Monster valve from powertank. Mechanical bottle Jack with axle cradle adapter (swag off-road) and run up/down with m18 electric impact. Assorted blocks of wood. Small tarp to lay on and not in mud or show. A snow shovel. And much more. Good videos.
Thanks!
Thank you so much, I appreciate the support for the channel.
This video was really well done. Thanks for putting the time in. I need to go look at my patch kit now.
I am very new to off-roading and I did choose #5 correctly! I have that very set to air down.
Simply got to be "the best" meat & potatoes kind of tire/air down/patch//air up/ off road related best practices sh*t ever👍
Thanks... feedback is super helpful.
Your videos have always been good, but they just keep getting better. Way to go on this one!
Tire cheat 2) The other best way to protect sidewalls is run more plies at lower pressures. For example, M/T Baja Pro XS is 4 ply, Baja Boss is 3 ply, BFG is 3 ply, nearly everything else is only 2 ply. This is reflected in the tire weight per size, get the heaviest tire in your size, it should be about 8 pounds heavier than everything else in the exact same size.
Great advice
Funny, I'm here shopping new tires, and trying to find the lightest 34-35" I can. 😅
35x11.5 Falken vs 35x12.5 saves 10lbs.
But D load vs E load will also save some weight. My FZJ80 currently weighs 5500lbs with me in it. I can't see it getting much heavier than about 6000 static weight, and even with two more passengers MAYBE 6500.
E load is just over kill, but I have had extra plies save side walls from getting cut, so I'm still on the fence for the next tire.
@TheCajunGaijin Thick sidewalls don't air down well and if you do you run the risk of the bead coming off. They don't have the same forgiveness and flex as soft tires do. So you have to pick your battle there...
I think it depends on what you are doing with your rig. Heavy tires come with a long laundry list of downsides. If you regularly cut sidewalls for whatever reason, then the heavier tires may be a good idea. I've cut 2 tires 48 years, and much of that in rocky environments. I'm super watchful of where my tires are going, so for me it's all about light weight. A rough rule of thumb is take the extra tire weight x 4, let's say 8 x 4=32, then multiply by 10 = 320. That extra 8 pounds per tire will have about the same performance degradation as 320lbs extra in your vehicle
Get C-load at your own risk. I run E. Maybe the first 5 min the bumps are felt more, but after that no big deal, I got used to it.
Motomaster Twin inflator is my favorite. It's sold at Canadian Tire.
I love my Morrflate compressor and 4 way hose. Sure it takes a bit of time to get set up, but I almost always finish airing up and have everything packed away before anyone else that I am with finishes doing one tire at a time. But that largely comes down to the type of compressors they are using. I can do 15 to 35 psi in less than 5 minutes on my 33's.
As soon as my friends saw my morrflate setup, they started waiting to use mine instead of whatever they had 😂
You can use a ratchet strap down the center of the tread to help seat the bead of a tire. As the strap squeezes the tire, it forces the bead out. Just remember to release the tension as soon as the bead seats. You don't want the strap to break from the air pressure and go flying. Used this method in a tire shop fur years.
Great tip
Wow, actually great advice, a lot of these advice videos are so generic and simplistic, great to watch something useful, this was worth the watch.
Oh whew… these videos are a hard balance to find… thanks for the feedback
If you're going with a small group take a small/ cheap drone to scout ahead if you need to.
two of my buddies and I went on a small trip, and the lead vehicle put us into a wash which was only suitable for side by side vehicles, for the last 4 miles. we were able to make it out but had we had a drone to scout the area we would have been able to avoid the issue all together.
20 years ago, I used a cheap tire plug kit to fix a tire on an VW Baja bug . Funny thing is it still holds air today. I’ve spent a lot of time working at a tire shop and the cheap plug kits worked just fine.
They really do… I am amazed what the can hold
Yes, the old "sticky ribbon" type of plugs work fine...but for some time now, I've been carrying/using a mushroom-type plug kit.
-- BR
@@billredding2000 So they work well? I've never knew about them till reading your comment. Was curious what the advantages were?
@@derekcoaker6579 I don't get flats often (hardly ever!) but have never had a mushroom plug fail, and I thought (meaning I'm not sure, but they might be) the mushroom plugs were more secure due to their design, as inside air-pressure pushes on the "mushroom" top of the plug and flattens it out some but there's not enough pressure to force the plug back out the hole. But again, I'm never had either type -- tacky/ribbon or mushroom -- fail EXCEPT on "unplug-able" too-thin-walled/too-flexible scooter tires (as mentioned) where NO type of plug will hold. So if you had either type on-board your car/truck, you'd be fine.
I've never looked up any comparison-testing of the 2 types of plugs, but that would be interesting. Regardless of the result, as I said neither type has ever failed me so I can't say which is "best."
The MAIN thing is to CARRY a plug-kit (!), and as well a 12v COMPRESSOR (of course!).
IIRC, the brand I got (YEARS ago) is "Stop & Go" -- it came in a very small pouch (yellow lettering & purple "tire tread" accent). No CO2 cylinders were included but apparently they have those nowadays (google their website).
But there all ALL kinds of mushroom plug kits seen on Amazon...not sure how good they are (tool-quality or rubber plug quality), would try to get a well-made one, and the Stop & Go brand seems to be quality.
Now, I'm not sure which type of plug would fit my "off-road-focused" 33" Falken Wildpeak A/T3W tires on my Jeep Gladiator (Rubi) -- never had a flat and they are less likely to get one (compared to street-tires) -- but I guess I'll find out when if (when) it happens! ;-)
Good luck,
"Jeep Wave" (...because "It's a Jeep thing")
-- BR
Dry rot will leave you stranded.
In my kit, I added a very small vial of dish soap. Sometimes its hard to find where the leak is! You can combine the dish soap in a mug with some water and pour the soapy water over the tyre to find the source of the leak, can use the same for radiator hoses etc. if they get a leak.
I agree with the hose ends getting gunked up when they drag across the ground not to mention you get dirtier wrapping/curling of dirty hoses. I have done a few variations of air up systems and now have settled on added air hose plumbing under my F150 with a connector at each corner of the truck and 4 short hoses that are the right length that they stay off the ground. My hose or ends typically never touch the ground. I had talked to a tire engineer from Falken years ago and he told me if you are aired down to ~20 psi give or take a couple then you should be good for a few miles on pavement if you keep it under 50 mph. I have done this quite a bit and keep an eye on tire pressures while on pavement and have never seen them go up more than 1 psi indicating they are not too hot. I have also checked the sidewalls for warmth and have not really felt much difference. He noted that many people have run tires for months/years ~15 psi low and not noticed especially before TPMS was common and required. That is on of the main reasons TPMS's were required, so many people ran around with low tires it wasted fuel and added to greenhouse gasses.
That sounds awesome.
I would also add the Colby emergency valve stem to your list. If you get the RED you don’t need a wrench to install it. One of these saved me when I got a flat with my hot rod. I don’t have a spare because of the different tire sizes and keep spare Colby stems,plugs and air pump. The stem cracked and started leaking and it was super easy to install. I was on my way in less than 5 minutes. There are other tools to install rubber valve stems but they need lube to work and even then can be super hard to install stems with. The Colby stems work so good you could actually use them permanently in place of rubber or metal stems.
I have 4 oversized aftermarket wheels and a stock steel spare wheel. The tires are oversized, the spare wasn't. My spare tire now is still narrower but the circumference is the same as the other 4.
Resetting a bead(s). A ratchet strap around the circumference will help push the sidewalls out against the rim, ideally sealing it to fill with air.
Great video, thx! I. carry two Milwaukee M18 inflators, I can inflate two tires at once and have spare if one breaks. Also, you can still buy inner tubes for most tire sizes that could work in a pinch and not take up too much space/weight to carry. I like the Coyote deflators and Safety Seal tires plug kit, both are made in USA.
I have thought about getting one of those inflators. I have been looking for a while for a decent battery powered air inflator that works well.
All your ideas are very good and very well fought out the only thing I do different than you on getting the bead back on is I have a circumference strap that goes all the way around the outside of the tire with ratchet action it works very well has never let me down
I just have smallish, but rated for large trucks & RVs, compressor with a short-ish hose but a long 12V cable that alligator clips onto my starter battery. I got it at O'Reilly's. A longer wire takes up less space in my rig than a longer hose. I don't care how long it takes to air up my tires. I've got all day anyway. I'm out there to be out there. Not to rush to the next destination.
This is the first of your videos that I've seen. I usually go into this type of video with pretty low expectations, but I found your video to have a lot of "meat" to it! Good job!
Tire cheat 1) best way to protect sidewalls is run the wisest possible tread on the narrowest possible wheel. Such as a 285 on a 7.0"
Yup. I run a 12.5 on a 7.5 and can air down as much as I want.
I keep 2 full size spares. Onboard twin viair compressors, tire repair kit.
Love the tips. PSI x 3 will give you a decent kph (metric) speed.
Run the ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire. Tighten strap to force sidewalls out toward bead. Remove valve core to slow maximum air flow. Air up until bead seats then reinstall valve core.
Exactly! Ratchet strap helps a lot… probably should have called out pulling the valve stem… we do that every time I. The shop when we mount new tires.
2 or even 3 may fit in the hole. Key is steady pressure. Got it...
You mentioned about taking the battery pack that has an air compressor integrated in its system. Good idea. We went a different route. Since we had Ryobi tools, they had an air compressor that runs on the same battery system as our tools, the One+. It's "budget friendly". It's not $8-900. We got our air compressor from Ryobi for less than $170. It's not part of the electrical system of our FJ. We take and store it when needed. Hope this helps.
I agree with multi tire inflators, however I'm very good at setting it up, tons of practice lol and they all have quick connectors and I'm up and connected to my air compressor in under 45 seconds
You know what's great for airing down? Your re-inflation gear. Make a DIY 4 tire inflator, put a gauge and a gate valve on it, deflate all your tires at once and don't bother with the extra gear just to deflate.
I mean, I just use the old ARB ez deflator, like the ones he's saying to not bother with. It's all brass with a steel shaft, and other than some O rings, will probably last me a lifetime. I don't really get the hype for airing down fast, less than 1 minute a tire is pretty okay with me. Plus, it's just part of the process, gets you out of the seat for a little bit.
Great info, I have been using my ryobi air compressor from
Home Depot priced at $150. It’s been 5 years and it still works, half the price of fancy ones and it airs up my stock tire sized tundra when off-roading no problem. Sometimes less is more.
I love it... I am a big fan of affordable solutions... spend money on gas and food and get out there
Im pretty sure NRS straps are holding my life together! HAHAHAH
The tire spacer idea is brilliant!
My "hack" is to have a diverse crew to wheel with. Some trades people as well as those in the medical field make a great team!
That is a good Hack... and yes... nrs straps hold my trucks together and even my pants up sometimes... we are a rafting family so we have been using these for a long time.
Never heard of the hub adapter before either. Good Idea.
I don't travel in groups often, but it drives me crazy to watch other channels like @ExpeditionOverland where they have a fleet of different vehicles and they are all carrying a ton of stuff and not really taking advantage of the fact they have this purpose built convoy.
Thank you for all of this valuable info! We usually have newer tires on our rig but we have gotten by for way too long on luck. Will be ordering a couple new items for our toolbox.
Fantastic video Nathan! This needs to go into my reference folder.
I have covered little bits of this stuff in other videos but I get questions on Air up & Down and other related Items I figured it was time to consolidate it all into one video...
@@OutdoorAuto Your hard work is appreciated.
i have a three gallon air tank to get 140 psi out of. it is regulated to 31 psi. for airing up.
and use a air line locking cap.
but yes those gismos for dropping psi are good to have.
Always carry rated towing and yanking(snap) straps, with shackles, preferably soft shackles. Also, a properly sized, and trusted, jack... Whether Hi-Lift, or any other variation or style.... Just know that it works for your vehicle's height and whatever most likely situations you may encounter.
Whoa man. Very informative and great video my dude! Much appreciated that you took the time to make this video, so thank you!
I choose to use Makita portable hand held air compressors. They use 18v makita batteries, I have a bunch of those. A battery can inflate three to four tirers. I have 38s on my Jeep. It has a digital read out, and you can set the pressure that you want the pump to stop. I have four of them and that makes the task fairly fast.
WHAT!?!? GENIUS! Thank you very much!!
Your the only other person iv heard of using these makita inflator. I run two of em, 1 for the rear, and 1 for the front, they are great!
@@cooksadventures8748 Great minds think alike. lol The newest model inflates even faster. I still have to use a velcro strap to keep it going though. Wist they would have an auto trigger lock.
@@ryankim3612 It has been working well for me for years now.
@@jcarieri5435 there's a new model?!?! We're still talking 18v right?
Nate this was really good! Tons of great advice here.
Awesome. I try hard… sometimes it hits… sometimes I miss…
I’ve heard the morrflate guy on the snailtrail podcast say schrader valves have a max flow of 1.5 cfm. If you use one of the 4 hose systems, you can shove 6 cfm in there and won’t back pressure a fancy compressor as much……and won’t overheat it as easily
Yup... I called that out in the video... the advantage to those 4 hose systems is the heat reduction.... the other solution is to change your valves to high flow ones from a company like Apex
@@OutdoorAuto my bad then!
Sorry for starting out with the downer comment. This video is awesome. Really appreciate all the excellent info you’ve been putting out there.
For mismatched tire sizes, put them on the rear axle and lock your ARB. This will prevent spinning the spider gears, which is what can wear out with mismatched tires.
30 mph = 50 kmphr. A Canadian. We had to figure that all out in the 1970's when we went to the metric system. Most towns are 7 miles apart. Your gallon is actually metric, because your quart is a litre. We had to convert the imperial measurement to a metric equivalent.
Real world experience spoken here. Thank you Nat.
Some good tips in there.
Where abouts is that mini hose reel from? Thanks.
Same question. Only running across huge ones.
in my decades of driving very rough trails. i have never damage any of my valve stems.
buy the short rubber ones and they are pretty well safe from rocks. the hard steel ones will get hurt.
and only once i hurt a sidewall. never had a flat off road.
Great info. I have one of the NAPA twin compressors similar to the ones Morrflate and a couple other companies sell. I only air one tire at a time and I always finish before the guys with the quad setups. I was in the process of switching tire carriers and went trail riding without a spare with a group. I have a TJ and I carry a TJ to JK wheel adapter for the reason you mentioned. As luck would have it I cut a tire on the trail and I couldn’t find anyone in the group willing to give up their spares. Lol. I now carry a spare all the time. Lol
Concerning spare tires, make sure it's not past the expiration date. Maybe five years ago, I had to use my spare tire. About 1/4 a mile down the road, the side wall blew out. Also having a full size spare means when you replace it, you don't have to order a weird sized donut.
Can I ask what that hose reel system is that you have. Small enough to fit in your hand. I like that and would like to get one. Thanks
The "fuse" idea is great!
Great video! One thing you didn't consider in your discussion about 4 tire inflators is that they aren't as hard on your compressor. You get less back pressure, thus less heat with a 4 tie hose, and heat kills compressors. Your typical Schrader value is only rated for about 150 LPM. So the restriction comes from there as well as the single hose for the compressor. For example, I have a 300 LPM compressor. So if I use a single hose with it, I'm "wasting" about 150 LPM, or half of my airflow. Guess what happens when you do that? Yup, you generate heat, which is hard on the compressor, AND effects your duty cycle.
I definitely called out the heat reduction with 4 inflators in the video…
awesome bro, good advice and great attitude. love your work.
I’m so glad you acknowledged the innuendoes. Biting my tongue so hard it’s bleeding
😂 - that kind of comedy is too easy
Cheap double pump compressors from Amazon work great. I use two at the same time, I always get my tires up to street pressure before anyone. But this is from sand pressure at 8psi.
This is the most useful video overlander can post useful stuff brother 👊
I don't understand the popularity of those valve core deflators either! I have a set similar to yours, take a lap screwing the on, then a lap screwing them off. Easy peasy.
I use two $50 amazon digital air compressors to air up. One for each side, i'm done in about 10 minutes. They have worked great for almost 5 years now! (Plus i can move them i to whatever rig i'm riding in for the day!)
those lock n flate air chucks are awesome. way better than the garbage one that came with my ARB compressor.
I love them and they are really cheap considering all the garbage out there.
Good video and info. Cheers from Canada....the land of masters of unit conversions, eh.
Based on the thumbnail I was skeptical about viewing this, but did so anyways. Glad I did. While the first few points were geared for the novice, I did learn from the second third (shout out to Car Talk) of your video. Also happy you included a link to the air chuck you discussed. About the adapter ring, anyone in my trail group better coordinate that before getting on the trail cus my spare is dedicated for my vehicle and they better supply the adapter ring.
My channel is a bit weird… it really is just a sharing/ teaching channel so we try to cover a variety of skill levels… you obviously saw that immediately
With the spacers, depending on the state are illegal. Some states the spacer is legal but if the tire extends beyond the fender can make it illegal.
I think for the cost of wheel adapters, you could just go to the junkyard and buy a mostly worn out spare tire to put on a rim when out in the trail
The issue for a lot of vehicles is space… most my Jeep friends don’t have room for a spare….
Starting using Thors Lightning cable this year. Cut my air up and down time in half.
Killing it Nate. Great stuff.
Very informative video! Thank you!
That wheel spacer hack is genius!
Spare control arm bolts and torque paint!
My jeep lj front axle turned into a 3 link for a little! Found the bolt. But couldnt find the nut. Luckily my buddies tire carrier had a extra bolt i could take that used the same nut.
Thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge!
Who makes/where can you purchase the mini air hose reel shown in your video. I have seen this question asked multiple times without answer. I am very interested in getting one for my rig.
What Off-road tips do you have to share?
Never break your tip!!! Got it.
excellent! I learned a few things! Just added a couple things to my Amazon Cart!
I just have a small air compressor with small tank that plugs into my FJ’s 400 watt outlet. Cheap and portable. I’ve filled tractor tires with it.
Bring plenty of water! Used for drinking, your radiator, clean something like tools, hands, etc
Good callout, I always have a 5 gallon jug with me. I have used it to refill radiators a few times.
Great info. Never thought about a hub adapter.
Sooo... at 21:10, I see you've created a "fuse" and are staying a safe distance away from the explosive force. But what about my buddy Walter? He's got his face right in there (although he IS doing the "safety squint")😂
Walter lives by a different code then the rest of us... I also have it on good authority that he once did this using axe body spray... so... who's the real legend?
@@OutdoorAuto 😅😅😅
@@OutdoorAutoWalter either doesn't have body hair or he's recharging his canisters with another fluid.
I'm actually heard of someone taking a piece of rubber and just melting it to fill a hole. I've never tried it but I guess if you had to it's worth a shot.
I guess maybe you could carry a bike tube or something like that to have some just rubber material to use.
You can add alcohol to window washer fluid so it doesn't freeze
I try, but I keep drinking it before it makes it to the car!!
@@ryankim3612 🤣
Not all alcohol is the same when trying to use it as an antifreeze. Plus if you do not use enough alcohol the alcohol will simply condense allowing the water to freeze. Putting cheap alcohol in the freezer is a poor mans way of getting higher proof alcohol, the water freezes out leaving the alcohol behind.
@@1a1u0g9t4s2u ok put 1 cup of sugar to 1 gallon of water mix until diluted ...
Excellent information I am From United Arab Emirates ur suggestion are extremely helpful ❤❤❤❤
The best budget air compressor that I found is the Thor's hammer I love mine it might be Thor's lightning
great ideas, i love the last one!
Is that mini air reel from Apex? asking for the Discord folks
@outdoorauto I would have sold you my 03 Sequoia thats 85% finished for over landing. And its clean 😊. I'm looking forward to see what you do to the Land cruiser
I want to do a sequoia build some day… I pretty much have to build and then sell cause I can’t afford to keep all these… but I really like the sequoias
One cool air trick is to run lines to each wheel well with a chuck and you only need to hook up 4 small leads
Yeah this is the ultimate cheat
Putting it in & out all day will wear it out. Got it...
Could you look at 110/120V tankless air compressors for hybrids like the new Landcruiser and Tacomas? They should be available way cheaper and more powerful. Maybe even look at cheap harbor freight air compressors and then removing and capping the tank connection?
3:58 buy some Colby valve stems they’re awesome
Excellent video!
I'm in Canada... I math well. 🤓 Great video as always!! 👌
You guys are nice, you math well… it’s no wonder all my friends that were girls married Canadians 😂
@@OutdoorAuto 😂😂