HTPLA vs PLA and more with Proto-Pasta
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2019
- Chuck has Alex from Proto-Pasta in the Filament Friday studio to discuss PLA, HTPLA, Magnetic PLA, CHEP Candy Apple Red HTPLA, and best practices for HTPLA vs PLA and more with Proto-Pasta all in this edition of Filament Friday.
Proto-Pasta Filaments shown in Video:
Candy Apple Red: amzn.to/2WuQV8G
High Five Blue: amzn.to/2My0miY
Star Dust Glitter: amzn.to/2Xzkdzc
Carbon Fiber HTPLA: amzn.to/2XB9vZ6
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CR-10:
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Наука
This video is not sponsored by Proto-Pasta they are just friends and I like talking to Alex when he can Pop-in for a quick visit.
CHEP Thanks for the explanation. Usually if I see something like this (collaboration with a company to produce something) I ignore a video and wait for the next one.
What nozzle sizes are recommended for those types of filaments?
Often 0.5 but I use 0.4 all the time.
@@FilamentFriday I have a .4 tungsten carbide nozzle so hopefully that will work
@@MyMrdmitry often you learn more than you 'need' to ignore
0:06 Unfortunately at the moment Alex was teleported he was driving his kids to school... RIP
Kids went straight off a cliff... RIP...
Thanks Chep I learn so much from this channel only been printing for 2 months and without your channel a lot of frustration. After finding it though much improvement quickly
Always the best! Thank you very much for the video!
Seriously. I like it when someone from the printing community tests new materials. If the manufacturer is still there, it's all the better. Here the name was mentioned only casually. And you have to look all the way to the end to know exactly where the material comes from. And I don't think Chuck will be influenced by that. You can see that in his other videos. As always, I liked the video.
Keep it up! Greetings from Germany
Awesome man love their materials
I love that Proto-Pasta collaborates with many creators on RUclips!
You always have very interesting information in your presentations. Love you videos. Thanks Hans ...
Didn't know Fred Durst was into 3d printing!
Great stuff thanks chuck!
Really nice discussion with Alex.
Awesomely content full video .... thx Chuck
Very nice video effect! It's not as easy to do as you made it look. A lot of good information as always. Keep up the good work.
Great video.... I'll be adding some Proto-Pasta HTPLA to my next filament order.
This was a very helpful video, I’m about to order a CR-10 mini for my first printer and filament is one of the many things I need more info on.
Very cool (pun) Chuck. Thank for that.
Great info guys, thank you both. One question Chuck, are you planning to do a how to guide on building your transporter? :-)
my man just kidnapped a dude at the snap of his fingers and everyone's talking about filament?!
We prefer the term borrowed ;)
OMG!!! I knew it! Chuck is the mad Titan!... On 3D printing! ;D lol, as always great vid Chuck
Cool video. They just got my business!
I think alot of people fail to realize that PTFE has a glass temperature of 115C, so it will not last indefinitely printing PLA and will not last at all printing at much higher temperatures, it is not a high temperature material an will melt at 320C, so maintenance of it is required, simply replacing it now and then should be suggested, but I doubt is often practiced.
I like to put the parts in boiling water. Usually 10-15 minutes later the part has slightly changed colors (natural PLA going from semiclear to a more opaque kind of white color) and in measuring a test part it shrank about 0.5% in X/Y while growing just a tiny bit in Z.
Great idea.
Don’t they deform ? Water boils at 100c pla gets soft at 60?
@@mthobbies5885 In my experience they did not deform. The water keeps a more even temperature than any convection oven I've used before - and even in a convection oven you're annealing at 100C or so.
Hi chuck i love your vids
Also, it's important to say that you need to use nozzles >0.5 for HTPLA-metal prints. 0.4 and lower clogs almost instantly.
I use 0.4 all the time without clogging.
@@FilamentFriday Are you using it with Proto-Pasta Brass HTPLA? Do you have all-metal hotend? And what type of extruder do you use? I'm using Micro Swiss All-metal hotened and BMG dual-gear extruder installed in my Ender 3 Pro. Original parts. And 0.4 and lower nozzles clogs instantly with Brass HTPLA. I don't have this problem when I switch from 0.4 tom 0.6 nozzle. And I know that my colleagues using Prusa printers have the same issue. Maybe you can recommend/shoot new video with some slicing options that will allow anyone to use 0.4 without clogging? Thanks in advance. :)
When I heard Proto-Pasta was based in WA I knew I had to try it. Just got my first printer and was torn between trying Hatchbox, Prusament, Proto-Pasta, Colorfabb, etc. I got some MH Build PLA & ABS just to have a supply of basic/cheap filament, but wanted to try a couple of nicer ones. I thought people might have been hyping it up a bit, but Proto-Pasta's HTPLA really is a dream to print with. I also got some Prusament PETG, which printed really nice until I ran into clogging problems due to a loose nozzle/heatbreak. Need to try all of them again now that I've fixed that.
Still want to try some Prusament PLA and ASA and some other brands of PLA/PETG. But for now, Proto-Pasta HTPLA is by far my favorite to print with, gives the best results and the colors are awesom. I redid all of my printer parts with it. I got "For the Lulz" Metallic Green, "Deep Ocean Swell" Satin Cyan, and "Raspberry Bliss" Satin Magenta (for my niece). For the Lulz is so ugly it's good, and actually looks really nice with Satin Cyan, so I'm using both of those on my printer.
We have the Ender 5 pro and when we print with proto pasta HTPLA, we always have problems
I've been meaning to try Proto's stuff...I just didn't understand what the benefit of HTPLA was/is....still not entirely sure? Wish he had more colors...I'm leery of glitter jams :)
I love proto pasta filament. It really prints better than anything else I've ever used. Yes it's kind of pricey, but your getting a high end product.
Another great Video Chuck-nice to see you again Debunk this "NEED" for another upgrade-this time an all metal hot end that so many of the "experts" in the forums insist is required for better prints across the board.
Awesome video! Thanks for all the insights. I wanted to ask if Ender 3 prints the HPLA Nebula multicolor and other proto pasta HPLA with no problem or do I have to consider upgrades in hardware?
prints flawlessly
Pretty interesting subject, man! Thanks a lot! 😃
Oh, and BTW... Well done, Thanos. 😐
Wish they had info on website for each filament that said recommended nozzle size and type.
I have some HTPLA that I haven't tried yet. Thank you for the temperature info. Is there a recommendation for how long to bake a print for? Does the look of the surface finish alter indicating it's done?
Drew Lakebrink - Yes, it will change shade a bit. Time depends on the print size.
Drew Lakebrink
Try to find the data from the manufacturer.
I tested out annealing some PLA-X3 prints (HobbyKing sell this as “PLA-X” - it is made by MCPP in Holland), and the information given was preheat to 110 degC then 20 to 60 minutes depending on print size and thickness and let cool in the oven. Twenty minutes seemed correct for quite large chess pieces.
If you don’t know, then just print some samples and experiment with temperatures around 110 degC plus or minus a bit. Note that the print will shrink, and could warp. The stuff I did is specifically designed for low shrinkage with annealing, and came in pretty much exactly as the manufacturer claimed.
Alex has been making the rounds lately. I'm not complaining, just noticing.
Thanks for the info. So my micro Swiss upgrade is not going to print as much detail as my stock hot end? Bummer!
I'm not so sure that's a good takeaway. Although Alex does have a point, there are thousands of people who have gone to all metal (including me, I needed to print Polycarbonate {PC} up over 300°C. You don't suddenly lose the ability to print detailed prints with an all metal hotend. It's a pretty complex subject with many factors. I see Alex's point but I think it's a tiny bit overstated, IMHO. Education is the key to getting good 3D prints and people like Alex and Chep play a vital role in helping people understand how much chemistry and physics are involved. Now don't you wish you paid more attention in science class? LOL! ;-) Keep learning, you and your MicroSwiss will be fine.
Another great video Chep! Alex is a great guy, loads of good info, now if Proto-Pasta was just a bit cheaper ... LOL! (Well, maybe ...)
Still, I'm not adverse to getting higher end plastic, as several have noted you usually get what you pay for from most companies. Personally, I'm starting to edge towards the higher end plastics now that I see the results are there for important prints. That said, I'd have to have a specific need to pony up for such pricey plastics. Good info tho'
I'm having a hell of a time printing PETG, I can get a real good first layer but the walls will just be trashed bumpy wavy not always there. Ender 3 and inland PETG, any tips would be amazing
kreepykoopa - ruclips.net/video/-CtMZgThiNQ/видео.html
Inland PETG varies in quality and I am not buying any more. I like eSUN Black PETG - it prints like PLA at the higher PETG temperature and would suggest that as a first spool if you are going to try PETG for the first time.
Sounds like you may have moisture in the PETG. It happened to me. Search RUclips for Food Dehydrator for drying filament unless you want to plot down $ 130 for Print Dry System.
The quality difference between different brands of PETG can be huge: I started with Orb Polymer (back when they were in business, obviously) and really liked it; switched to colorFabb as a replacement when the first finally ran out (but even then, only because I got a colorFabb economy roll for really cheap); and then recently I finally ran out of the colorFabb but could not find a replacement black economy roll so (what with normal-sized rolls being relatively expensive) I bought some eSun to try (given its price and generally good reviews). In each case I had to spend several frustrating hours changing my print settings to get each to print nicely (or sometimes at all!), but even then it is obvious how much better the colorFabb is compared to, say, the eSun. Although I don't use PLA very often anymore, I don't recall having to modify anything other than, say, the print temp when going from one brand/color to another. PETG is not in the same boat at all.
How long do you leave the part in the oven at 110C (Carbon HTPLA)?
Farshad Bagheri - Depends on size of model. 15-20 minutes should do it.
100c for 30 min is the normal. 100c = 212f
This video is missing something important: the maximum temperature that the proto-pasta HTPLA filament can withstand once baked. That's what this is all about, isn't it? Strangely, not even their website mentions it in the product page.
I've found an article in their blog, which suggests 160°C, but that sounds almost too good to be true.
The HDT goes from about 55C to 85C post annealing. Just how high you can go without ruining the print really depends on how much force is on it or in other words how much stiffness you need it to maintain with force pushing against it before it deforms.
The great material, I like their brass-HTPLA. It feals like a metal and can be blue-ed like a real brass. My only complain is -- it shrinks on 2 dimensions, but expands on 3rd when you heat-treat at 110c for 10 minutes. Unfortunately, it's hard to predict the change of sizes( in order to prescale it in slicer) -- it looks like heaftier models shrink and expand less, but skinnier modles shrink and expand alot.
ProtoPasta might be nice, but the price is just nuts!
you get what you paid for
@@chaddanylak8706 I typically live by the phrase "you get what you pay for....up to a point". Since I get great prints from PLA from Microcenter, I can't see protopasta printing 400% better, for 400% of the price, unless Protopasta levels my bed for me, then cleans the glue off the mirror every few prints. I'm sure it's good stuff, but I haven't had any failed prints that were related to filament in 5+ years.
Its the type of filament. Metal included to polish or patina. The sparkle finish that hides the layer lines. It’s a premium filament that you won’t use daily but have a few spools for specific projects is worth the investment IMHO.
@@FilamentFriday I'd like to see an honest test of PP HTPLA vs Microcenter's HTPLA. Does it print 400% better?
Microcenter sells Prototype-Pasta HTPLA. They don’t have an Inland HTPLA. So I don’t understand the request.
can you print play with additives with the normal nozzle?
Yes
Oh man he went all Thanos at the end!
So, if I dont bake my print, I wont get the benefit of HTPLA?
Not really.
I'd buy pp but it's like 100cad for half a roll haha. Their colors pop so nice too
Well I know this is an older video but I was wondering what you thought about the difference between HTPLA (or Tough PTLA from MHs) vs PETG as far as (1) thermal capabilities, (2) overall toughness, (3) UV resistance, and (4) color choices for those everyday prints that I usually make in PLA but might end up in the sunshine - I live in Seattle so that's not so much of an issue....but still :). I would like your opinion on an everyday, go-to print material besides PLA. BTW you have such a great channel - sharing your knowledge and experience is very generous! - Thanks!
Any PLA can be baked but I’ve printed standard PLA functioning parts that hold up fine outdoors in Summer. HTPLA shrinks but is a bit more controlled than PLA so it has minor advantages. PETG is brittle to me. I don’t really like printing it.
@@FilamentFriday So is PLA your go-to filament for most things then - unless a use-case requires a specific filament?
Yes. Exactly. And there are different brands of PLA with unique features so you still have choices.
@@FilamentFriday I can't thank you enough - please know that your willingness to share your knowledge doesn't go unappreciated!
I've wondered what htpla was
How do you ALWAYS know what to make videos on?
Would HTPLA be appropriate for 3D printing lava lamps?(not the globe obviously)
Sure. Depends on the light source heat.
I post process prints all the time
I'm so happy I decided to buy a 3d printer.
hello, I follow you recently, I'm entering the 3D printer world, could you tell me a good printer? best value for money. thank you very much, very good video on the PLA .
Christian Saitta - I really like the Ender 3. Links in description. I have a full playlist on it.
The CR-10 is a good machine
@@FilamentFriday THX
CREALITY cr-10
Why not use boiling water?
Hello, maybe someone can help me. Im new to 3d printing and im about to buy my first printer. I have read a lot of articles on which printer to buy but im still not sure which i should get. At the moment im trying to decide between the Comgrow Creality Ender 3 which isnt that expensive and the Anycubic I3 Mega which costs more than the Ender 3. Im not sure if I should pay a little bit more and get the I3. Also I dont want to buy a new printer that often, so the printer Im getting should be "up to date" and working for 2 or 3 years. My usage will be mostly for fun things but definetely also for some instrumental or useful things.
I hope you can give me a recommendation for a good printer. I wish you a nice day (sorry for my english)
Here is my review of the Anycubic I3:
ruclips.net/video/bLPKvHIJorY/видео.html
And Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro:
ruclips.net/video/-dv1iWXPhWg/видео.html
Both work well for me.
I love proto-pasta, but it's so damn expensive
So the copper base can be used for printing your own PCB boards?
I wouldn't think it would conduct electricity.
No. It’s not 100% copper.
CHEP thanks for the info.
Can you solder or flow to the copper filament if you created a decent pad?
Hi Chuck, hope you are well and all the printers are behaving ;) Inspired by this video, and given I'm printing quite a few parts for a car project I'm on at the moment, I thought I'd try some of this HTPLA. Sad to report....my first attempt was a total fail. The part was printed at 100% (as suggested by Protopasta for best results), I have an accurately controlled oven so gave it a go. Within minutes, the parts was distorting and had become useless - dimensional accuracy was vital for this part. Hard to describe it but I'll have a bash - it was an adapter for a fuel filler cap. It was circular, with an OD of about 100mm with a hole in the middle of about 70mm, the bottom face was flat, the top face had a curve in one plane and it went form about 10mm thick to about 40mm thick on that curve. Basically the panel it fitted to was curved. I could have tried again of course, but given just how badly and how quickly it went wrong, I didn't want to waste time or PLA trying it again :( I could have gone cooler, but would it even anneal at lower temps?. Reading between the lines, I get the impression that the results are not only very variable but are also very dependant on ALL the variables, time, temp, print properties including size, geometry. SO, the only valid test I could do for this part would be to keep printing them. I wussed out :) All that said, thank you anyway, always appreciate your videos. Best regards.
Thanks for the feedback. I would contact protocol-pasta at the contacts in the video and give them the file to try. It can’t hurt to give them a chance to respond.
@@FilamentFriday I do appreciate I didn't exactly give it a thorough and rigorous workout!! I might try again some time, or maybe just do it in PETG and call it done ;) ASA looks interesting too, but I'd need to sort out an enclosure if I want to do that.
I have been trying to get rid of a very persistent ex girlfriend for some time,
Any chance you can do a how to video on the finger click Thing. xD
Just kidding Chep!
very informative vid as usual. Thanks man.
Most of these filaments you can't even get and candy apple red not on the list.
Why call it htpla if you have to bake it to become ht.. From other videos on.Youttube just ordinary pla when baked outperforms even abs at high temp...
ClickMe from what I’ve read, regular PLA has a high shrink % when “annealed”. HTPLA has a much smaller shrink %. If you’re heat-treating, I’m guessing it’s for a functional part where dimensional accuracy will be important. Certainly you could use regular PLA for this purpose, but I think it would require trial and error to get the exact part you want.
50$ a roll for htpla is def not worth it if you are selling parts. Better to just injection mold it.
Depends on volume. Low volume can’t recover the cost of the tooling.
So even though the HTPLA is heated to 200C in a hot end, heating it to 100C in an oven makes it more resistant to melting? The gimmicks in 3D printing are amazing.
@Lion McLionhead You should probably educate yourself on common industrial processes, like annealing, before embarrassing yourself with such a dumb comment
@@AmatuerHourCoding or you could point lion to a source to explain his question, instead of making an even dumber comment?
My understanding is it is the cool-down time that makes the difference.
Only the individual lines of filament are heated up that high at the nozzle. When you put it in the oven the entire piece has a chance for the molecular structure to unify at those layer lines.
Just an advertisement. Nothing else.
Yep. Just because it's not sponsored it doesn't mean it's not a 9 minute ad.
Not the content I subscribe for.
@@jakefromstatefarm8545 crappy argument. :) because I don't like content like this you are trying to offend me, thanks for your thoughts
Just because it's a 9 minute ad doesn't mean it's not well done with good and interesting information
pmenegatos
Useful information if you are looking for those type of filaments. Would be too expensive for those of us outside the USA (shipping is a killer), but if you are there then it’s always worth supporting local manufacturers.
When I heard Proto-Pasta was based in WA I knew I had to try it. Just got my first printer and was torn between trying Hatchbox, Prusament, Proto-Pasta, Colorfabb, etc. I got some MH Build PLA & ABS just to have a supply of basic/cheap filament, but wanted to try a couple of nicer ones. I thought people might have been hyping it up a bit, but Proto-Pasta's HTPLA really is a dream to print with. I also got some Prusament PETG, which printed really nice until I ran into clogging problems due to a loose nozzle/heatbreak. Need to try all of them again now that I've fixed that.
Still want to try some Prusament PLA and ASA and some other brands of PLA/PETG. But for now, Proto-Pasta HTPLA is by far my favorite to print with, gives the best results and the colors are awesom. I redid all of my printer parts with it. I got "For the Lulz" Metallic Green, "Deep Ocean Swell" Satin Cyan, and "Raspberry Bliss" Satin Magenta (for my niece). For the Lulz is so ugly it's good, and actually looks really nice with Satin Cyan, so I'm using both of those on my printer.