Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
Faster Hot End & Heated Bed warm-up in Cura
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 окт 2019
- Chuck shows you how to get Faster Hot End and Heated Bed warm-up in Cura 4.3. This will cut the warm-up time in half. He shows you how the heating warm-up profile is created and how to modify it with simple settings in Cura.
Start and End GCode Files:
www.chepclub.c...
CHEP Prusa Profiles:
www.chepclub.c...
Creality Ender 3 Upgrade Package (Extruder, Silent Board & Capricorn Tubing): bit.ly/2MNvmcs
CHEP Cura Profiles:
www.chepclub.c...
Filament Friday Tool Kit:
USA - amzn.to/2N8NuOR
UK - amzn.to/2OP6pNY
Filament Friday Filament: amzn.to/2rgz3Ma
************** 3D Printers & Parts ******************************
Creality Ender 3:
From Banggood : bit.ly/2wfD5Ia
From : amzn.to/3fSIISy
From MatterHackers: bit.ly/2VVveZW
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/3hDTvSf
Creality Ender 3/CR-10 Parts:
-----------
Creality Silent Stepper Board: bit.ly/2lwwBSE
Cap Tubes & Couplings: amzn.to/2Vf8BCf
CR10/Creality Ender 3 Nozzles: amzn.to/2m39K1y
CR10/Ender3 Silicon Heater Block Cover: amzn.to/2PaxJ89
Banggood:bit.ly/2RVZySM
Solder Sleeve Kit: amzn.to/2Pqqngm
Creality Ender 3 Fan Set (24v): amzn.to/38u9aOl
CR-10 Fan Set (12v): amzn.to/2PrcCxK
T-Nuts Kit: amzn.to/2LsQZg8
Screw Kit: amzn.to/2Va8uGK
CR-10S Pro
From Banggood : bit.ly/2WXWasO
From : amzn.to/2U3BTBz
From Matterhackers: bit.ly/2Kwk3G6
CR10 Mini
From Banggood : bit.ly/2u5XNJk
From .com : amzn.to/2l8B7mX
Creality Ender 3X - Creality Ender 3 plus Glass Bed and 5 Extra Nozzles:
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/2NguWOD
CR-10:
From Banggood : bit.ly/2udpwaj
From : amzn.to/2s899uZ
Creality Ender 5:
.com: amzn.to/2IZaEFy
Banggood.com: bit.ly/2PwwHV7
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/2L2SweG
Creality Ender 3 Pro:
From Banggood.com: bit.ly/2DBG0AI
From .com: amzn.to/2QUjRUL
From MatterHackers: bit.ly/2MfPCFT
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/3hET7CL
Filament Friday Tool Kit: amzn.to/2YhMtea
Filament Friday 3D Printer Starter Kits: bit.ly/2EuojUq
Filament Friday Filament: amzn.to/2rgz3Ma
Geeetech A10:
From Banggood: bit.ly/2PfgC8u
From : amzn.to/2SsVzxD
********* $3 - Ender Style Cura Profiles Download Links: *******
Latest V5.x Profiles: rb.gy/5k981c
TPU Profiles: shorturl.at/V08bk
PETG Profiles: shorturl.at/RLEfI
(Free to Patreon Members)
**** Support the Channel *****************
EBAY USA: ebay.to/1wtxfiU
EBAY UK: ebay.eu/2qdC5iy
EBAY Canada: bit.ly/2qdGRwh
Support the Channel here and Shop at MatterHackers.com and you automatically donate to the channel at no cost to you:
bit.ly/1Ugcijp
Buy thru this link to Slice Engineering for the Best Hot Ends:
bit.ly/3yuyuze
Note:
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Financial Support through Patreon:
/ elproducts
****************************************************
Filament Friday Sticker:
Send Self Addressed Stamped Envelope to:
Electronic Products
PO Box 251
Milford, MI 48381
****************************************************
Filament Friday Playlist:
goo.gl/yJLNhr
Chuck's Arduino Book:
amzn.to/3tA31JP
Intro animation by Pablo Licari based on Filament Friday Logo by Brian Carter.
I’ve updated the .txt files. No more hidden characters from my Mac.
Fortunately you don't have a quantum computer you would have quantum number in your files for 3D printing with quantum filament
CHEP thank you so very much. Greatly appreciate your work and dedication of putting the tutorials out for us. Thanks.
What's the diference between G28 home and G1X0.1,... ;move to start position
edit ; figured it out. G28 is home other is just prep for prep lines
Thank you!
Hey Chuck, why not just hit the pre-heat function? I always do that on my Ender 3 Pro, and then insert the mem card. Once heated, I then change the filament to the colour I want, and hit "go". The preheat temp can be edited to 60 and 200 in the printer under Control / Temperature / PLA Temp.
Just wanted to note that I copied the gcode from the website just now and there are still hidden characters. Easy fix but a bit confusing until I opened the video in RUclips to see this comment.
Thank you!
You keep solving problems I didn't even know I had! Keep doing what you do pal :)
I’ll try!
Same here
;**** Start Preheating ***
M140 S{material_bed_temperature}; start preheating the bed
M104 S{material_print_temperature} TO; start preheating hotend
G28; home
M190 S{material_bed_temperature}; heat to bed setting in Cura and WAIT
M109 S{material_print_temperature} TO ; heat hotend to setting in Cura and WAIT
;*** End Preheating ***
thank you
god bless you, sir
you my friend,.... you
I have found its better to let the bed come up to temperature and let it stabilize for a few minutes first before starting the print - especially for large prints that use the majority of the bed. During heatup the bed will expand unevenly (due to some portions of the bed being hotter than others), but after a few minutes this will start even out across the entire bed. I now get perfect first layers every time, even for large prints.
Hi CHEP!
Instead of using the material_bed_temperature variable I use the material_bed_temperature_layer_0 variable if not the first layer temperature setting will not be used at all. I made this change on the Start G-Code and worked like a charm!
For the cases when bed takes much longer to heat up than the hotend - just add few more lines to you start code. Begin heating the bed and wait until it reaches 40C; you may need to experiment and find the right temperature for your bed type/size. Then follow the instructions from this video - continue heating the bed further till the final temperature and at the same time start heating the hotend. Both will reach desired temperatures simultaneously.
I am what you can consider a newbie or amateur in 3D printing. I had no clue and just straight away bought a 3d printer ender 3 pro. You videos has helped me a lot. I really appreciate it. Big thanks CHEP 👍❤️
I just got my first Creality machine Friday. The new Ender 5 Pro. I immediately incorporated your heating settings into all my profiles and it works great. Huge reduction in time to start the actual printing. Thanks, and keep up the good work.
Sir, you are truly the gift that keeps on giving to the printer community
That's an elegant solution. I just preheat the printer to my desired settings when turning it on. So when I start the print everything is already set up and there is no delay at all
I think it's a good thing the bed is heated first... if you're using glass that is. When the thermistor reports back 60C, the surface of your glass itself might be something like 40C. So it gives the heat time to permeate through the glass, which in itself is a bad conductor of heat.
Test it and find out. I use a swipe of glue stick on my glass and often can print PLA without heat. So it depends on your setup.
AND if you use a gauge, you could see that, with a glass on top of the heated bed, the print surface will slightly bend during the heat, caused by the materials heating at different speeds with different dilatation factors. So waiting for 3 or 4 minutes after the sensor reports you reached the final temperature of your bed is a good habit to make sure your bed geometry is stabilized.
Cura is awesome. Chuck Hellebuyck is awesome.
I loved that little beep at the end! Thanks for sharing this tip!!!
Heating both at the same time = decent. Determining the rate of heating for both and applying some math so they end heating about the same time = pro. You've given me ideas! :D
I've been searching for month about that feature ! I actually never waited for the bed to heat up for manually set the hotend go to 200°C. I always thought it wasn't recognized. The bed take quite a long time to heat up, i never waited to see afterward. And i never could find the right words to describe it on google search. Thank you ! You're making my printer life so much easier ! (I'me currently bingewatching most of your videos. Most of it works too on Alphawise printers)
Haha same here!
Took in use in my Ender 3 Pro immediately!
Also moved "G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed"
before M190 and M109 waiting commands so that hot nozzle is not in contact to the magnetic bed while heating.
I believe the reason for heating the bed then the nozzle is to lessen oozing not to slowly work out the power supply. Printing some CPE or exotic dilaments requires 90 or even 100+ C which could take a long time for large build plates. Some machines take 5 or more minutes to get to 100 and it would be bad for the nozzle to be at said temp for that long since it can cook certain materials and cause jams.
I like the Idea Chep, but I find the bed first means it has 1-2mins to stabilise the temp across the bed as much as possible before laying plastic.
Thank you; this tip will prove very useful. I know that if I go into my Anycubic Mega temperature settings and manually set the hot end, I can heat both hot end and bed at the same time without blowing a fuse. This is what I have been doing before seeing this video.
I can see why Cura would want to be conservative, but they should make it an option.
And I thought this was common knowledge. :-)
For the CR-10 I have been using this with Ideamaker for quite a time:
M190 S40 ;pre-heat bead to 40 with waiting
M140 S{temperature_heatbed} ;set bed temperature without waiting
M109 T0 S{temperature_extruder1} ;set extruder temperature and wait
M190 S{temperature_heatbed} ;set bed temperature and wait
And in PrusaSlicer this is it:
M190 S40 ;pre-heat bead to 40 with waiting
M140 S[bed_temperature] ;set bed temperature without waiting
M109 S[temperature_0] ;set extruder temperature and wait
M190 S[bed_temperature];set bed temperature and wait
So the 40°C pre-heating is the headstart my bed needs in order to have the nozzle and the bead reach the end-temperature at about the same time.
This requires a little tuning based on your end-temperatures, your printer and your enviroment.
Agreed, the problem with starting bed/extruder at the same time is that the extruder tends to ooze once it reaches its temperature.
The test strip removes any ooze for me.
So, does this works with the CR-10S? I have always thought that it is annoying to not have them heat up at the same time
@@jacobwiebe293 There is no reason why it should not work on the CR-10S as well. But as I wrote it requires some tuning in order to make the bed and the nozzle reach their target temperatures at about the same time.
BTW: For initial layer temps instead of the normal print temp use:
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}
Just copy and paste :)
Can't on mobile. F you RUclips.
There might be a caveat worth mentioning here. I have a glass bed and personally I prefer to preheat the bed for longer than even the delay in the nozzle heatup allows for because the bed feedback temp is for the plate not necessarily the bed. Glass takes a bit longer to soak the heat into especially when started up cold. This may or may not actually be a problem, just my preference.
Yeah I wouldn't change that on my Anycubic i3 Mega because I noticed the bed takes a lot longer to heat up. If the hotend starts with the bed, by the time the bed is ready, the filament would be roasting inside of the hotend and cause clogging.
Coming to say this. My Ender 3 with glass plate had horrible first layer adhesion.
Found your post on the web about this and used it to greatly reduce my frustration during the start of prints. Thanks!
Oh, I did have to make a change, though. It didn't like the T0 at the end of 2 of the lines, so I had to remove it and it still works fine.
Same with me. Had to remove the "T0" at the end of the two lines of gcode to get it to work.
From what I remember reading the primary reason for heating the bed and the hotend separately in series instead of in parallel is more so that you're not cooking your filament in your hotend while waiting for your bed to head up. The hotend can warm up so much faster than the bed (at least in my printer) due to the differences in mass.
WHAT!! REALLY! I've been pre-heating my printer from console panel since almost day one because of this.
Serious thanks.
I always use the Preheat in the printer's menu. They heat up both hotend and bed at the same time. Works very well on CR10S and Anet6.
@CHEP you should use the _layer_0 instances of both variables, to make the behaviour fully consistent with the profile settings. I would also suggest to set the M104 at a fixed lower temperature (140-160) to prevent oozing in case the bed takes longer than the extruder to reach temperature.
I was procrastinating on this one for a long time. Had modified my old 3D Printer to operate this way. But, when replaced it I had been used the preheat setting; which was always the wrong temperature.... So, you "forced" me to update my start and end code. Works great! So, thanks for sharing.
Another useful tip, thanks.
My MP Select Mini has a feature that I wish Marlin (or octoprint) could incorporate. When the heated bed is about four degrees from the setpoint it starts heating the hot end. With octoprint on my CR-10 I manually start heating the bed and when it's about 8 degrees from setpoint I start heating the hot end then select print.
Very interesting thanks for taking the time to post this, I myself prefer to heat the bed up 1st, rather than leave the hotend idling at printing temperature cooking the filament inside it while it waits, on a printer with a fast heating AC heated bed though I can see the merit of doing this, but on my old cr10 which can take some time to heat up enough to print PETG and cant quite get hot enough for ABS without an enclosure, I wouldnt do it, thanks again and this is certainly food for thought...
Maybe preheat the nozzle to a standby temperature, high enough to heat up quickly to print, low enough to not cook the filament.
heating the bed first also means that it has time for the whole bed to soak up the heat and even out. The whole minute or 2 saved waiting for the hotend to heat up has its benefit and if you cant handle that minute or 2 wait.. 3d printing really isnt going to be a good time for you lol.
great tip, was always annoyed with that featured. Love how you always start your videos with "I'll show you how.." :) Wish you made more videos though, probably my favorite RUclipsr for 3d printers
Videos take time and I still have a day job.
@@FilamentFriday I guessed that, the amount of time that goes into video editing and making them as great as you do pays off, appreciate your commitment to the 3d printer community
If you're unsure if you should enable this on a printer that might have too weak of a PSU, you could always check if the printer will do that by itself already by using the preheat feature. If that heats both the hotend and the plate at the same time, that's basically the manufacturer saying it's okay to do that.
I would think that the bed heats up first so that the glass/surface can heat can soak in and throughout the glass. The bed would need more time than the nozzle would.
Love all your videos btw!
This is exactly right. The hotend usually heats up _very_ fast anyway, so it's not a big delay, but an easy approximation that doesn't require manual timings or other complications to make it work with most printers, while still allowing a bit more time for temperatures to settle and spread from the heating element to the print platform.
If you can move the thermistor, placing it _ON_ the platform, as far away from the heating element as possible would be a good way to remove the need for this, but can be inconvenient to implement, and would be very error-prone to do as a default for consumer printers.
I assumed that it was that way since the bed temp needs to heat the entire plate, outside of the sensor location so the prints would stick better.
Thanks so much for this my friend, I always look forward to Fridays for your helpful tips, my 3D printer has totally transformed my life and has made me so very happy, the help I get from you is like having a helpful uncle in the background, we all value you so much Chuck, thanks so much for this its little things that make all the difference, your a great guy.
Thank you!
Thank you VERY VERY MUCH !
Also added G29 (Auto Bed Leveling with BLTouch) after G28, so ABL is performed while heating
Performed while bed is heating? So you're not allowing your bed to come to temperature before leveling and having completely different bed calibration...might as well not use bed leveling!
Very nice tip. I applied it to my Ender 5 and it's working great.
I'm using this Cura start gcode sequence for my Ender 3 V2, more precise and interactive. Also, prevents filament oozing during the BLTouch bed probing.
;*** Start Bed and Nozzle Preheating ***
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start preheating the bed
M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; start preheating hotend (prevents oozing)
;*** End Preheating ***
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M117 Homing all axes
G28 ; Home all axes
M117 Bed tramming
G29 ; BLTOUCH Auto LEVEL
G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z20 F5000.0 ; Move to heating position
M117 Heating nozzle and bed
;*** Start Nozzle heating ***
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; start heating hotend
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start heating bed
;*** End Nozzle heating ***
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
M117 Priming the nozzle
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
;*** Single Print Start Tone
M300 S1000 P500 ; chirp to indicate starting to print
;*** End Single Start Tone
If you want to be more precise, heat the bed first then do the auto bed level
@@gergohochoner6597 That is what this cura sequence is doing. :)
Nice! I was wondering too but didn't find the time to do the research myself. Because when I use the option "Preheat PLA" on my ender 3, it does heating both at the same time. Thx!
Awesome video, there's so many things we just accept as normal and don't question. I have ofton wondered why it takes so long but never thought to look into it... Thanks Chep
Dear Chep:
Thank you very much for your very useful lessons for 3d printer beguinners, like me! I've improved my profile with these two great tips!
Best regards and keep up your good job!
I never changed the start G code, but on my Anycubic Mega S, sometimes I would go to the preheat option in the printer's UI and set both the hotend and bed to the desired temps and it heats just fine taking less time. What's cooler is that you can immediately go to the gcode to print, and it will still heat the bed first, but the preheat has already set the hotend to head and that isn't overridden, saving more time there as well. So basically you can set it to preheat and go to print immediately and you get the same effect as modifying the start gcode, except it's slightly more manual every time.
Simple and efficient. Same issue with prusaslicer
On CR10s manually configuring the commands CONTROL>TEMPERATURE>NOZZLE/BED has the same effect, in that the nozzle and bed will heat up simultaneously.
When I print, the first thing I do is manually set the temps I will print at straight after turning on the machine (assuming the bed is clean), that way I can then prep my stl/gcode for print while the machine heats up; the bed taking the greater amount of time. By the time I've then prepped the files the the printer is ready to go.
When I first got my 3D Printer I did consider this tweak but realised that extra offset time while the extruder is heating _could_ give the bed a more time to thermally expand.
Ultimately I'd love someone with an Infrared camera to prove this hypothesis.
If you have a 300+ watt bed and a glass build plate, can confirm, it's an issue. My bed heats up as fast at my nozzle, so my first layer is really bad if I don't preheat the bed for a minute. It takes a second for the heat to soak through the glass. If my bed heater wasn't super overkill, I don't think it would be an issue.
*For those that just wish to copy/paste the lines used in the video, see below*
;****Start Preheating ****
M140 S{material_bed_temperature}; start preheating the bed
M104 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start preheating hotend
G28 ; home
M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; heat to bed setting in Cura and WAIT
M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; heat hotend to setting in Cura and WAIT
;*** End Preheating *****
Thank you very much. I had trouble using Chep's code as it appears in his file. Why does he have those extra slashes?
@@allonmessenberg3129 I see what you mean, I did not look at it before. To me, it looks like it could be CR/LF line end conversion problems with the file host he is using.
@@allonmessenberg3129 he was using his Macintosh editor and it was saving his files with each hard return composing of two characters - carriage return (return to the first letter of the row) and line feed (move paper up one line). PC as a standard would save ASCII text as a single character of CR/LF that does both the carriage return and line feed together. These were instructions to line to printers originally on what to print and how to move the print head around.
TL;DR - It's a holdover from the early days of computing where different file encoding schemes were in use.
I use a separate heat bed and it is hot all the time, I keep it pretty hot, 65c to 70c but I have a 1/4 aluminum tool flat bed, I use a mirror, stick glue and I have no problem with parts not sticking, unless the bed is not leveled correctly, love it! I have a CR10 self upgraded to CR10s.
The primary idea of heating the bed then the hotend as a universal code was not because of power consumption but because of some printer may use between 5-40 min (or longer) to heating a bed while the hotend usually does not take more than a min to heat up. If we take the extreme of those cases the hotend will be cooking the filament in over half an hour which give a nice black dot of burnt filament when starting to print at best. And worst case scenario is that the filament clogs.
I made mine preheat the hotend to 100c and the bed to full temp and once the bed reaches full then the hotend goes to full.
When it's on do you wait or do you need to go somewhere in the settings
@@zambiekill7046 not sure if i understand your question. But i changed the start code in the slicer (simplify3d and cura, i use both) to include preheat of hotend to 100c and bed to its target (63c) then once bed hits 63 the hotend automatically goes to its target (220c) and its starts printing once the hotend reaches 220c
Here is what I put in my start G-code:
M140 S{material_bed_temperature}
;Start heating the bed
G4 S60
;wait 1 minute
M104 S{material_print_temperature}
;start heating the hot end
M190 S{material_bed_temperature}
;wait for bed
M109 S{material_print_temperature} ;wait for Hot end
This will delay the hot end so that it reaches temp closer together. On my A8 (12v supply), it take 2:25 seconds to heat the bed and about 1:30 to heat the hot end.
So it saves me a minute doing it this way.
One downside - if you use octoprint, it pauses the serial port so you don't get the nice temperature graph until the minute wait is over.
Thanks! Exactly that code I searched!
I am so happy that my Ender 3 seems to have come factory direct with either no beeper or a broken one! If it fixes itself I'm going to cut the traces!
Just print out the plug that's on Thingiverse, make it very quite.
For print and bed temperature, your start gcode should use {material_print_temperature_layer_0} and {material_bed_temperature_layer_0} to allow for the first layer temperature to be different than the rest of the print. Also, I read in the comments that you updated the txt file to remove the bad characters, the web snippets still have errors (guess which I tried to use...). Thanks for the great tip!
What error do you see in the snippets?
@@FilamentFriday In the start g-code, there is an invisible unicode FEFF in front of the T0 on the M104 and M109 lines. I copied/pasted the lines and my nozzle would not heat until I removed the invisible characters.
Very useful.
I use a simpler but not quite as good method- Use Ender 3 menu go "Prepare" then "Preheat PLA" then immediately after start print. So bed is heating to 45C while extruder going to 185C at same time. Then print settings send bed to 60C while extruder sits at 185C until print settings move on from bed heating to extruder heating.
Kneecapper on my CR10 and new Ender 3 I setup my pre heat temp for my Petg using the abs pre heat to 240 and 80 bed. Its so good. Always pre-heat beds and nozzle before going to cura so when Im done in cura its printing time.
Yes.
I always use preheat on my Anet A8.
If bed leveling, always best to do that with a warm bed anyway.
Why don't you already set preheating to 60degrees also?
@@steffengr.5556 Because I don't know how and this way does not take much longer. How do you set preheat to 60C?
@@Cloudman572 Control > Temperature > Preheat PLA Conf > ;)
i tend to turn my printer on a few minutes before i'm ready to start printing to get it heated up while i save my files to the sd card that i'm about to print. adding these lines to the start code would be the same amount of time but would save me an extra walk to the garage.
Thank you very much for this.
I would always pre-heat the printer from the printer settings first and than select the file, this is much better.
One suggestion though, I don't agree with leaving Home in the middle while we wait for the printer to heat up.
I feel that it can be an extra load on top of all the power draw.
Also is something that I rather be performed at the end and quickly than having the hotend very close to the bed stationary.
I had one of my surfaces damaged because of that.
Either way is a very easy change from anyone that prefers it that way, thank you very much :)
Life saver xD
For a glass bed, I have found that the separate warm up times allow the glass to be fully saturated by heat before the machine begins work. I couldn't get anything to stick to bare glass when warming them up simultaneously... as soon as I stopped being impatient and let them warm up separately (along with cleaning with iso alchohol) it worked beautifully. So... don't do this with glass.
You can add a pause and still speed things up but it’s your choice.
THANKS for saving me all that typing! LOL
Thanks for all the help!!!!
This has driven me crazy for so long. I’ve gotten around it by setting my temps in an octoprint phone app(OctoClient) before I start every print.
I've always set the temps manually in Octo so they would heat up together. This is convinient!
Search for the "preheat" plug in. It will place a button below the "start print" button and will use the first temp settings it can find in the gcode. Better work flow!
I just use the prepare menu on the endear 3 Pro, select the preheat both and then select print from card and the item. It preheats both at once and then starts printing as son as its done.
Thank you! I always preheat in the Ender itself to prevent this. "Preheat PLA" starts heating both.
This is the exact fix i was hoping to find for my MP select mini. I've added MOSFETs for both the hotend and bed as well as a300W power supply so power won't be any issue but they just never heat simultaneously. Going to try this out tonight.
this G-Code you did I can confirm works on my Ender 3 and my Geeetech A20M. for start and finish for heating and beeps.
Thanks for the tip, a really good one.
Works like a champ Chep! Thanks and keep 'em coming.
Fantastic, worked liked a charm and speeds up the auto bed levelling too.
Thanks for a really useful bit of info, I wont have to sit and wait for each to heat up etc ...the start chirp is great as well... Laurie
Ooooh nice! Gona try that tonight@ thank you, love your Cura tips!
Thanks very much. This worked great on my Ender 6. I was manually starting everything in Octoprint before starting a print - this is sooooo much better. THANKS!!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
With that knowledge I was able to customize the thing my way. Thank YOU so, so much!
The start and end g code has a significant impact on printer operation. It is surprising it does not receive more attention.
What do you mean by that, the current code or Chucks mods?
You can make all kids of change in the start/end Gcode, CURA or Prusa. It is a worthwhile area to learn and experiment with. I had trouble with my MicroSwiss hot end clogging if filament was left and cooled down. I changed the end Gcode to retract 35mm of filament before it turns off the heaters. Here are my start and end Gcodes
;Daw Start Gcode for ABL and MicroSwiss hot end
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]; set bed temp
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set hot end temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for hot end temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
G28; home all axis
G29; use EZABL or BLtouch
G4 S10; wait for 10 seconds for temp recover
M300 S1000 P500 ; chirp
G92 E0; set extruder to 0
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000; G1 Z2.0 F3000; move to save zone
G1 X0.1 Y100 Z0.3 F750 E15; extrude 15 units
G1 X0.4 Y100 Z0.3 F5000; move again
G1 X.04 Y20 Z.03 F750 E30; extrude 30 total units
G92 E0.0; reset extruder to 0
G1 Z2.0 F3000; raise hot end to z.20
;Daw END Gcode for ABL and MicroSwiss hot end
G1 E-35 F300; Retract Filament to minimize dropping filament
; retract 35 mm SLOWLY - before turning off hot end heat
; this is to prevent filament staying in MIcroSwiss hot end when cooling
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
M140 S0; Turn off Bed
G1 X5.0 F2000
G1 Y2900 F1000;
M84 ; disable motors
M107 ; turn off fan
M300 S100 P500 ; chirp
@@woodwaker1 You're correct, I extrude and wipe my nozzle on a small brass brush before starting each print. it "seems" to give me a better first line, however, I wonder how much of that is just me thinking it. I asked my question because I was wondering if there was some problem with the code Chuck published. Thanks
@@TheDgdimick I think CHEt's code is good. You make and fine tune the code that works for you. That goes back to what Just Peanuts was saying. There is a lot of power in these start and end codes. I do 4 skirt's to reprime my nozzle, and get the flow working.
David Wilson Retracting filament after a print finished to prevent clogging is a good example of a beneficial g code addition. Cleaning out clogged hot ends can be a pain.
BRILLIANT Chuck, many thanks for ending my frustration. My CR10-mini works absolutely fine with this code... I knew the PSU would handle it, because up until now, I've manually set the extruder and bed to heat together, whilst I prepared my print in Cura. Maybe you could consider looking into how to keep the extruder and bed at temperature at the END of a print ? I've tried to add copies of the heating Gcodes at the end of the Cura Gcode, but there seems to be hidden commands that are run once the Gcode completes. It really frustrates me that I have to manually set the temperatures at the end of a print, to keep things hot, whilst I remove a print and get the next one running....... Your Filament Friday channel is the best thing since sliced bred ( and beer ), Thanks Chuck....
I’m not sure exactly how to do that.
I just preheat the printer while I'm placing the parts and slicing in cura so it's ready to go by the time I compile the gCode.
CHEP you for that code, you just picked up another patron. Thanks
Thank you thank you!! Sooo annoying for me to manually go in the menu and adjust the temperature every time just to save time preheating both parts.
And now you get to deal with filament oozing as the bed warms up. Do a 2 step warmup.
The cleaning strip removes it. No big deal.
Thanks for the great tips Chuck. I really need to learn more gcode programming.
I've tried this, but went back to bed first, hot end later for one simple reason - bed temperature stabilizes while the hot end is heating up.
Thanks for the G-code Chep! that was one of my biggest annoyances with the cura software.
Uncle Chep, you're the best!
Not a bad idea. I prefer the feature in this case since I'm now using a glass bed and letting it stay at 60c for a bit longer helps with first layer.
Tanks a lot, been playing with my gcode for this, didn't work, finally cura 5.1 should have fixed the problem still didn't work, but this helps a lot thanks again.
I have been using Octoprint to preheat my CR-10S. The extruder heats up a lot faster than the bed. So usually I start the pre-heat, then submit the job. As soon as the bed reaches temp, it starts printing.
Printer settings:
Firmware Marlin 1.9
Cura 4.4.1
Profiles, modified Magic .20 and .28
modified: temps, infills and supports depending on the print job.
Extruder 205 initial layer, 200 after that
Bed 65 initial layer, 60 after that.
Stock glass bed, sometimes add glue for difficult filaments.
This works on my Tevo Nereus, saves about a 1:30. Much better!
Thank you! I was wondering why my printer wasnt heating the nozzle, didnt realize it was doing them separately
Not sure I'd want to stress a power main leg for this. Ender 3 beds in general need time to level out. Why stress the mains?
hey chep all printer's used to heat up both at same time. this setting might be better as it is below flow temp of pla M104 S150 ; you might be better of first heating nozzle to 150 first, then when bed is near ready hav nozzle reach its setting temp.. a good nozzle heater with a heat cartridge should reach nozzle temp within 15-30seconds from cold. BTW the reason for nozzle head up last is that the bed takes a lot longer to heat than the nozzle, and nozzle would ooze all over the place making a mess and not be pressurized when print began.
Mine took same time and any ooze is cleared by the priming strip in the GCode.
Worked like a charm, thank you so much!
Thanks for the heat tips, I''ll try it soon. BTW I used the mario bros song for the end scripts, to make sure I heard it at night when the print is completed.😂
Are you sharing it anywhere?
I would also like to know if you are sharing it anywhere
@@FilamentFriday nope but I can upload it to send-Anywhere so you can download it, if you want.
@@TechnoWit3D I would really like this! :O
@@derektata @CHEP @Alex Mast
try this ..
;SuperMar
M300 S2637 P133
M300 S0 P66
M300 S2637 P267
M300 S2093 P133
M300 S2637 P267
M300 S3135 P267
M300 S1567 P267
M300 S2093 P267
M300 S0 P133
M300 S1567 P267
M300 S0 P133
M300 S1318 P267
M300 S0 P133
M300 S880 P267
M300 S987 P267
M300 S932 P133
M300 S880 P267
M300 S1567 P200
M300 S2637 P133
M300 S3135 P133
M300 S1760 P267
M300 S2793 P133
M300 S3135 P267
M300 S2637 P267
M300 S2093 P133
M300 S2349 P133
M300 S987 P267
M300 S0 P133
M300 S2093 P267
M300 S0 P133
M300 S1567 P267
M300 S0 P133
M300 S1318 P267
M300 S0 P133
M300 S880 P267
M300 S987 P267
M300 S932 P133
M300 S880 P267
M300 S1567 P200
M300 S2637 P133
M300 S3135 P133
M300 S1760 P267
M300 S2793 P133
M300 S3135 P267
M300 S2637 P267
With the M300 S{freq} P{duration} we could have the Ender play a little song when the print is completed...
I think its not as much of a problem with overloading the power supply but if you think about it, Cura was made for the Ultimaker. And the Ultimaker has a glass bed which takes a lkt longer to heat up than the hotend. That would result in the hotend reaching its temp and than basically cooking the filament inside for the time it takes for the bed to heat. And we all know what cooking the filament does in bowden setups 😆
You haven't used an Ultimaker isn't it?
I havent but I still belive the Ultimaker has a glass bed...or doesnt it?
Thank you for another great video. I have my printer setup as shown in your video. All is working great! Much appreciated!
Thanks for the tip, It annoyed me always, even so much that I manually heated both at the same time before starting the print, I also see that here I can edit that awful triangle that Cura makes the Ender 5 do before printing.
Thanks for the tips
How did you expand the G code window? I can't see all of my G code in the little window it's in. Thanks
Thank You. My ender 3 got lot faster from warmup to the print :)
2020 and you are great it's working thanks for share man
IAM gonna try it for sure!!! Waiting for that hack!! Thanks Chep!!!!
Thanks. Your videos are really helpful
Great information, thanks. Weird thing... on my Ender 3 Pro with SKR E3 Mini and TFT35 display, for some reason the display does not show the bed and hotend heating or target temperatures until the print actually commences.
You also saved the start and end gcode files on the website as rtf rather than txt. They're still readable but not copy&paste friendly :)
They appear .txt for me. Might be a Mac vs Windows thing.
@@FilamentFriday just double checked: definitely rtf, both on mac/bbedit and w10/notepad++
@@FilamentFriday Confirmed that the files have an "RTF1" header in them followed by the text section.
[edit] Here's the first line of the files: "{
tf1\ansi\ansicpg1252\cocoartf1671\cocoasubrtf500" - and there's definitely "rtf" code interspered throughout :)
Hi CHEP, I know this is an older video but do you have a video showing a start gcode that makes it so you don't have to babysit the printer on start up? I mean, I always need to clean the oozing from the nozzle as it's homing. My goal is to maybe home the printer first, then park the nozzle in a position where it can ooze but not interfere with the two purge lines it prints before printing my file. AS of now it leaves a small ball of filament in the center of the build plate even if I wipe it before it homes and sometimes it leaves a fine string from the center to the left side when it prints the purge lines. I usually use a feeler gauge to scrape that stuff off before it's ready to print.
I want to hit print but then go make breakfast and not worry about it, haha!
I don’t.