I'm using a Trotec w/ JobControl, but I like to use the gantry movement controls and the red dot to make sure I am square to the travel of the head... I run the red dot along the longest edge, adjust as needed to square, then position the dot on a corner of the workpiece. I make sure there is a bounding box "positioning line" that matches my workpiece in the design and then I just snap the positioning to the cursor/head location for perfect registration every time. For printed materials, you can print the bounding position line for squaring and registration, no tape measure needed.
I started etching mirrors 30 years ago by sand blasting, and then I would paint the back side to match the decor the customer wanted. Usually the job was a bathroom mirror, sometimes up to 8' long. Most were just borders, but with a diode laser, I'll bet you could get pretty artistic since they are lightweight and portable. 😊
In lightburn instead of the black square use the blue or oange labeled T1 or T2. Those are toolpaths and they don't fire the laser, so no need to toggle the output on/off.
I use air assist on everything. It will save your lens from getting full of soot. Other then that, it's a good video. Ive been lasering going on 11 yrs.
An easier way to align your work. Keep your cardboard boxes and cut them down for alignment jigs. Measure the mirror and cut a void in the cardboard. Now your machine is aligned with the void. Then you don’t have to measure, align, and jog your gantry.
I'm not sure if it'll work on an acrylic mirror since it's a "plastic". I think it would also engrave into the reflective side once it goes thru the coating, whereas a traditional glass mirror won't burn
Another way to align your work. Keep your cardboard boxes and cut them down for alignment jigs. Measure the mirror and cut a void in the cardboard. Now your machine is aligned with the void. Then you don’t have to measure, align, and jog your gantry. If you don’t need center alignment you can cut a corner and slide the mirror into the corner.
I'll give that a try. I'm putting some LED battery pack lighting behind it to see how that looks, as soon as they get here from the Temu slow boat from China..
I'd guess it's possible. You could individually hand paint the graphics or if it's a solid color you could easily spray paint it. Since I made the video I've added some LED lights to them and it really changes the look.
I'm using a Trotec w/ JobControl, but I like to use the gantry movement controls and the red dot to make sure I am square to the travel of the head... I run the red dot along the longest edge, adjust as needed to square, then position the dot on a corner of the workpiece. I make sure there is a bounding box "positioning line" that matches my workpiece in the design and then I just snap the positioning to the cursor/head location for perfect registration every time. For printed materials, you can print the bounding position line for squaring and registration, no tape measure needed.
That's smart
I started etching mirrors 30 years ago by sand blasting, and then I would paint the back side to match the decor the customer wanted. Usually the job was a bathroom mirror, sometimes up to 8' long. Most were just borders, but with a diode laser, I'll bet you could get pretty artistic since they are lightweight and portable. 😊
Yeah that possibilities are pretty limitless. Very clean and sharp images
In lightburn instead of the black square use the blue or oange labeled T1 or T2. Those are toolpaths and they don't fire the laser, so no need to toggle the output on/off.
That's a great tip to know! Thank you!
I use air assist on everything. It will save your lens from getting full of soot. Other then that, it's a good video. Ive been lasering going on 11 yrs.
An easier way to align your work. Keep your cardboard boxes and cut them down for alignment jigs. Measure the mirror and cut a void in the cardboard. Now your machine is aligned with the void. Then you don’t have to measure, align, and jog your gantry.
Nice! I was wondering if it was basically same as acrylic mirror process. Thanks
I'm not sure if it'll work on an acrylic mirror since it's a "plastic". I think it would also engrave into the reflective side once it goes thru the coating, whereas a traditional glass mirror won't burn
Another way to align your work. Keep your cardboard boxes and cut them down for alignment jigs. Measure the mirror and cut a void in the cardboard. Now your machine is aligned with the void. Then you don’t have to measure, align, and jog your gantry.
If you don’t need center alignment you can cut a corner and slide the mirror into the corner.
why don't you want air assist while engraving?
@@TheHillsHaveFPV there is some minor air flow but just a small amount, basically for blowing debris out of the lasers path.
What is the speed you are cutting at? Thanks
500mm/s
paint the back and it pops
I'll give that a try. I'm putting some LED battery pack lighting behind it to see how that looks, as soon as they get here from the Temu slow boat from China..
Just wondered….can you paint the graphic?
I'd guess it's possible. You could individually hand paint the graphics or if it's a solid color you could easily spray paint it. Since I made the video I've added some LED lights to them and it really changes the look.
You can spray or hand paint. I like to use gold leaf (fake gold) It all so comes in silver and copper.
Update* I have started spray painting the backs after engraving. It looks incredible. I like it better than lighting it with LEDS
Oh one more thing you have to get a camera and loose the tape.....lol
@@johnmcgovern4011 I've read mixed reviews with cameras on lasers so I've never really gave it much thought 🤔