Thanks a million for that I got the front cam chain to loosen without to much problem after removing the tensioner bolt. When I got to the rear cylinder I tried for over an hour to release the tension off the timing chain. No way could I get it to release after I had removed the tensioner bolt Then I watched your video over and over and realised it can’t be that hard. Finally I hit the G spot and bingo the chain came loose and I had an orgasm. Thanks again mate, I was contemplating having to take off the chain tensioner Greetings from Brisbane Australia Regards Murray
I shimmed an '07 last year and by removing the cap/spring and pressing the ratchet (tab) you can pull the rear cylinder cams without removing the cct body which for me is easier as the frame gets in the way. I GUESS Suzuki added the oilway for the pressure to assist the spring. I used to get Kasasaki zxr11's with cct's like the Gen 2 you showed and sometimes the spring wasn't man enough to adjust the chain to the next tooth so you had a rattle at idle. Fix was to back off the two mounting bolts 1 flat at a time until you heard the click to the next detent then button it up. So as the cam chain wears, the spring extends which reduces the preload on he plunger and around 30k miles on ZX's you get a rattle. I did a KTM and the cct was fully controlled by oil pressure just like BMW's...great design/engineering as you get a "cushion" for the chain (1 reason why KTM's rattle from new) and a good reason to change engine oil regularly
Thanks for posting this. I was curious to see the operation of the later generation CCT's before I started screwing around with my VStrom 650 later this winter. Just seeing how the gen2 CCT works, that seems like it'd be a heck of a lot easier to relieve cam chain tension (if you can hit that unlocking tab after undoing the spring+bolt) when doing a valve shim change as opposed to making a damn tool to try to lock the gen1 in place and/or removing completely.
I have a 1st gen SV which is around 36k km on it and I'm thinking of changing the timing chain. Is it necessary to change a cam chain tensioners as well due to timing chain change? If so, is it possible to change the spring which is inside this 1st gen tensioner?
there is a gasket between the tensioner and the head. you cant just pull it though since you need to make sure the bike doesnt skip time. grab a service manual online
On my 05, I have a stripped thread on one of the cam caps, and I want to remove it, do I need to remove the tensioner entirely to do that? Or can I just take the central bolt out a bit? Accessing it is so difficult lol
@@Mad8vCycles I'm planning on taking it to a local shop to see if a time-sert insert could be done, there's only like 2mm of material around the thread though so it might not be an option. Not sure what else could be done, maybe a helicoil? Seems like the holder material is pretty soft aluminum. Right now I'm wrestling with the throttle body which seems to have never been removed before!
@@Mad8vCycles That makes sense... I just got the front cylinder tensioner off, but the cam chain is still tight, does that mean I need to remove the rear tensioner as well? I just want to get this cam holder off without the timing getting messed up as you mentioned. I'm confused why the cam chain is still tight..
@@0x7FFFFFFFFFFF pull the spark plugs so that compression doesnt turn the engine. Also put it in a position where the cams arent pushing on the valves (top dead center)
Madv can i use an 03+ intake boots for 99+ models? I know about the f.pump nozzle but i think if they are the same ill take vacuum from the petcock line. Thanks
pretty sure the airbox boots are different. rear intake manifolds are different between 1g and 2g. front manifolds are the same. if you need a 1g rear manifold, i can probably scavenge one off something. also, youll need an impact screwdriver otherwise those screws are a bitch
I tought that the rear manifold leaked bc rear carb spited fire. It was running lean after i changed the exhaust, when cold it backfired and hesatated til 4-5k, exh temp was 400 at front 600 rear. Any ho half a turn of the a/f screws and it sings now. So the rear manifold of 2gen is diferent in dimensions not only the nozzle? LOVE to buy from you but where i live importing from america is still a luxury🙃
Thanks a million for that
I got the front cam chain to loosen without to much problem after removing the tensioner bolt.
When I got to the rear cylinder I tried for over an hour to release the tension off the timing chain.
No way could I get it to release after I had removed the tensioner bolt
Then I watched your video over and over and realised it can’t be that hard. Finally I hit the G spot and bingo the chain came loose and I had an orgasm.
Thanks again mate, I was contemplating having to take off the chain tensioner
Greetings from Brisbane Australia
Regards
Murray
glad it helped :)
I shimmed an '07 last year and by removing the cap/spring and pressing the ratchet (tab) you can pull the rear cylinder cams without removing the cct body which for me is easier as the frame gets in the way. I GUESS Suzuki added the oilway for the pressure to assist the spring. I used to get Kasasaki zxr11's with cct's like the Gen 2 you showed and sometimes the spring wasn't man enough to adjust the chain to the next tooth so you had a rattle at idle. Fix was to back off the two mounting bolts 1 flat at a time until you heard the click to the next detent then button it up. So as the cam chain wears, the spring extends which reduces the preload on he plunger and around 30k miles on ZX's you get a rattle. I did a KTM and the cct was fully controlled by oil pressure just like BMW's...great design/engineering as you get a "cushion" for the chain (1 reason why KTM's rattle from new) and a good reason to change engine oil regularly
Thanks for posting this. I was curious to see the operation of the later generation CCT's before I started screwing around with my VStrom 650 later this winter. Just seeing how the gen2 CCT works, that seems like it'd be a heck of a lot easier to relieve cam chain tension (if you can hit that unlocking tab after undoing the spring+bolt) when doing a valve shim change as opposed to making a damn tool to try to lock the gen1 in place and/or removing completely.
yep, super easy.
Hi,
Yes gen 3, euro V, year 2021 tensioners are the same as the last one shown from you with the oil
Thank you! Havent had those motors apart yet
I could send you a photo if you want
@@Mad8vCycles
I have a 1st gen SV which is around 36k km on it and I'm thinking of changing the timing chain. Is it necessary to change a cam chain tensioners as well due to timing chain change? If so, is it possible to change the spring which is inside this 1st gen tensioner?
You can actually swap an 03+ in.
I dont think the internals are serviceable
Ive got leaking issue with the 3rd gen, started at the tensioner bolt, tighten it down and will observe if anything happens
there is a gasket between the tensioner and the head. you cant just pull it though since you need to make sure the bike doesnt skip time. grab a service manual online
I have a vstrom 650 2022 that is making that dreaded vstrom noise, lol. I wonder if a faulty timing chain tensioner could be the problem?
Pop a valve cover off and see how loose the timing chain is? Stethoscope the engine and find the source of the noise?
how to check gen2 for working properly ?
2nd half of the video
On my 05, I have a stripped thread on one of the cam caps, and I want to remove it, do I need to remove the tensioner entirely to do that? Or can I just take the central bolt out a bit? Accessing it is so difficult lol
It will probably jump time or jam up without the cam holder. If you loosen the tensioner you might be ok. How are you planning to fix the threads?
@@Mad8vCycles I'm planning on taking it to a local shop to see if a time-sert insert could be done, there's only like 2mm of material around the thread though so it might not be an option. Not sure what else could be done, maybe a helicoil? Seems like the holder material is pretty soft aluminum.
Right now I'm wrestling with the throttle body which seems to have never been removed before!
All its doing is holding the valve cover so it shouldn't need to be super strong
@@Mad8vCycles That makes sense... I just got the front cylinder tensioner off, but the cam chain is still tight, does that mean I need to remove the rear tensioner as well? I just want to get this cam holder off without the timing getting messed up as you mentioned. I'm confused why the cam chain is still tight..
@@0x7FFFFFFFFFFF pull the spark plugs so that compression doesnt turn the engine. Also put it in a position where the cams arent pushing on the valves (top dead center)
Ima swap for the 2gen into 1st.. theyre simple and faster ..😂
Early ones are popular for swapping over
Madv can i use an 03+ intake boots for 99+ models? I know about the f.pump nozzle but i think if they are the same ill take vacuum from the petcock line. Thanks
pretty sure the airbox boots are different. rear intake manifolds are different between 1g and 2g. front manifolds are the same. if you need a 1g rear manifold, i can probably scavenge one off something. also, youll need an impact screwdriver otherwise those screws are a bitch
I tought that the rear manifold leaked bc rear carb spited fire. It was running lean after i changed the exhaust, when cold it backfired and hesatated til 4-5k, exh temp was 400 at front 600 rear. Any ho half a turn of the a/f screws and it sings now.
So the rear manifold of 2gen is diferent in dimensions not only the nozzle?
LOVE to buy from you but where i live importing from america is still a luxury🙃
Just the vac nozzle. Pretty sure dimensions are the same