FYI a better solution : (you don't need to glue it that way (a bit ugly), the problem comes from the black ring, not screwed tight enough to hold the stainless mount ring.) 1 - Locate/set the right mounting location of the lens to your adapter, unscrew the lens from the adapter (paying attention that the lens body and thread turn at the same time). 2 - With a flat screw driver lightly mark/scratch on the "stainless" mount the location of the "I" (located between the xmm I Fxx on the lens body). 3 - unscrew the 3 tiny flat head screws from the black ring (be careful, they are easy to strip). 4 - Apply pressure to the stainless mount toward the lens body and tighten the black ring (the one with the screws) until it is tight (the ring is threaded) making sure the stainless mount doesn't turn and stay aligned. 5 - Before tighting the screws, test the alignement with the adaptor on the camera body, if it is perfect you can tighten the screws (gently) other wise unscrew the black rear ring and redo from 4 or if your mark wasn't right redo from 2. If no luck : unscrew the black ring completly and glue the stainless ring to its aligned position to the lens body and reassemble.
Pretty good lens for street. The one I got was called "Newyi" but it's exactly the same. Mine also came with extension tubes and a leica-clone lens hood
I have one on its way to me next week, I can't wait! I currently have the 25mm f1.4 that you showed in the beginning, and it's annoying having the focus ring in back and the aperture ring in front. I'm glad this one fixed that.
I have the 35mm f1.6 version Newyi. Mine doesn't spin freely. I use it on a micro 4/3. I also have the 25mm f1.4 that you show in the video it has a cool swirly bokeh effect.
I had this for a day recently. Not bad for nearby obects, but for ladscape the corners fall apart big time. It is an awesome size though, like a pancake. I upgraded to the red ring one, which usually has a green ring, it is better but way heavier, not sure if keeing it as the edges are pretty bad for landscape. Centre sharness is great.
Mine didn't have the mount problem - I think there is just variation in manufacture quality. One thing I noticed about this lens is that as you adjust focus there is an amount of zooming of focal length so your framing changes slightly. Not a biggie but distracting and not good for video if you are changing focus.
lol I knew there had to be some out there that didn't have a moving mount. Mine doesn't seem to have the strange zooming you mention- I guess it really is a gamble.
I'm curious to know if the newer 25mm 1.8 version covers the APS-C sensor. The uglier one (25mm 1.4) certainly does not. The older 35mm 1.7 works great, with a little vignetting that looks cool IMO.
Hi, I bought a vintage cine lens. Mount diameter is 16 mm. I do'nt know what type of mount it is. Its not C mount. I have C-EOS M adapter which does not fit on it. I guess I may require a special step up ring on which I could use C-EOS M adapter to use it on my Canon mirrorless camera. Your expertise would be highly appreciated. The lens was by mistake described as C mount. 1.5 INCH f1.9 SUPER COMAT TAYLOR AND HOBSON Lens ? MOUNT 16mm Movie lens. Do you have any adapters 1. which can adapt this lens to my Canon EOS M?2. Is there any D mount Cine lens to C adapter? Thanks for your expert opinion.
Is this considered a wide angle on a crop sensor? Just picked one up. I hope so haha, Im looking to record myself doing music in a small room. I only need from the waste up. Probably sitting at a table. Do you think this will cover it? great review. subscribed.
Equalibrum so depends on the crop sensor- if you have a micro 4/3 like me, then the 25mm translates to 50mm film so not wide really. but for your purposes that might not be a problem. if you have an APSC crop sensor like a Sony then 25 translates to 37mm which is wider. let me know how it works out if you have any issues with it!
Thanks for the advice. I have a question: is the older f1.4 fujian significantlly brighter? I've heard that the newyi is not actually f1.8, but about f2.2 or something like that. Would that mean that the older fujian is also not as fast as it claims, or is it that much brighter (f1.4 vs f2.2)? Thanks.
it is, but at cost- the wider it goes the more and more the picture starts to get really hazy. as for is it accurate to 1.4? i don't know but i wouldn't bet on it. the error margin is probably such that you may get a slightly different brightness from lens to lens (like if you bought 2 of the same exact fujians they might be different). all in all, i would not categorize these as your serious professional use lenses. i strictly recommend that these be in the fun/artistic category- they're cheap, they're fully manual so you have full control, and sometimes its more fun to not get exactly what you pictured. sometimes the lens surprises you- it gives you more interesting shots. but if you're going to a paid shoot, yeah i wouldn't bring any of these haha.
Having an eos m3 with , 18-55 kit lens, 22mm prime, and the SMC Pentax M f/1.7 will this bring anything new to the table? I'm interested in it for cinematography
so here's the thing- this lens is more akin to a cine lens than a photography lens only in the sense that the aperture ring is clickless. you can roll the aperture smoothly if you're doing something like moving the camera from a really dark place to a really bright place for example. all cine lenses do this. what sets it apart from a standard cine lens however, is universal accessories like follow focus do not fit the tiny rings without modification. also, like i mention in the video, don't expect high quality construction- but if you baby the lens you should be fine. for $30-50, coupled with mods to adapt it to follow focus etc- it might be the best bang for buck cine-like lens especially considering a potential equivalent cine lens, say the Rokinon 24mm T1.5 is $400. another thing to consider is using an ND filter the front diameter is 37mm which is kind of rare so most likely you will have to get a ring adapter for whatever size ND filter you have. all in all, can't really complain cuz the price is so low (under $30 now) even with all the mods you can have a standard setup. for me personally, I've already moved on to actual cine lenses with better durability
@@cforcalvin Cool I'm all about bang for the buck, I'm pretty good at babying stuff so I won't have a problem with that ha, I got my step up rings and nd filters ready. The other reason I was considering this lens is to double up as a cheap macro lens with the c-mount macro rings. I really don't see how the price can be beat.
Which mirrorless body are you using this on? I just got one off ebay, and I can't get it to focus to infinity, no matter what I do. I have MFT and Sony mirroless.
i'm using the olympus pen-f, which is MFT- what is the issue exactly? like if it never reaches infinite even when you rotate the ring to the max, that sounds like there's a macro extension ring maybe screwed on in-between the lens and the camera mount adapter- and you should take off the macro ring and screw the lens back onto the mount adapter. sometimes the lens focuses far past infinite at the point where it should be infinite- and that happens with a lot of adapted lenses (not just cheap ones). when that happens, i cut out small rings from cardstock or index cards and stack them in-between the lens and the mount adapter to push it forward a tiny bit so that the infinite point matches.
yes, also- be careful with using it. Try not to be too rough with it. Although it is metal construction, the internal design has many faults: one of which is the aperture ring's end points aren't rock solid. If you push too hard, it can accidentally go past either end point which would break the aperture ring control. But even if it does break, don't hesitate to return it- they'll gladly refund you and you can just get another one if you want.
Really appreciate this video, needed a nice review, I own both fujians so still in need for something 1.8 or 1.4 this seems great, any tips on how how to get a good copy in ebay?
So after some more research, fujian may have created this as a new version of the 35mm and 25mm and any of the other "brands" with the same style are basically the same lens. So unfortunately error margin will be the same no matter where you get this lens, which is kind of up in the air. What you can do though, is look at where the lens is being shipped from- if it says coming from China, expect the customer service to be non-responsive. Hong Kong is more responsive. But I bought one of these from California, US and the first one broke (ring didn't turn iris anymore) so I sent it back and they refunded me no problem. What's annoying is that the lens is made of better materials than the old one, it has sharper glass, more blades and better designed blades... but the assembly construction is hit or miss. And really, you should find a seller who you think will give you good customer service because you might need it. Now there are two versions of this lens, the C-mount and the dedicated mount (micro 4/3, sony). I'm only talking about the C-mount version, it could be that the dedicated mount is better quality as it tends to be more expensive ($70-90) but I think what you're really paying for is the guarantee the mount won't move like the C-mount ;P.
So this is my understanding of how Chinese manufacturing works: if it looks the same- it's the same exact blueprint and most likely the same materials. The factory and the distributor may be different, and therefore the QA may be different. So if they charge more like the 7artisans brand does, most likely the error margin is less. Since this very particular no-brand version is around $30, the error margin may be quite high. If you have fundamental mechanical prowess, then taking a gamble on this one might be in your favor. But if you don't want to deal with any of that and just have peace of mind, you'd probably be happier spending more on lower error margin.
not sure to buy 25 or 35 mm of it, i use Olympus pen ep 3 so i think it would be good to choose 25mm for getting full view of a scene i am shooting, but it seems like 35 mm takes better photos and look more fancy, what would you advice?
well these new versions, both the 25 and 35 are useful for different styles of photography/cinema. 35 is more useful for close-ups and portraits and 25 is more useful for street. it depends on what you prefer to shoot- if you're like me who mostly does street photography, I would go with the 25.
there's a typical Fujian (older model) that was literally taken off of cctv security cameras and I have that one also- it's not the same design inside and out. The glass isn't as sharp, there's a bit of vignetting and blurred edges to the picture, there are less blades so the bokeh isn't as smooth. But to its credit, the older one is more rugged- it can withstand several drops and the rings are more sturdy and solid. I also appreciate the rubber grips. So durability the older one wins (although it's not really fair cuz they probably have a million of these already made in the 80's sitting in a warehouse), the new ones are redesigned and so built with today's material standards (which suck compared to back then, they don't make em like they used to) but the performance is clearly better with this new updated version. Just don't expect to to take a beating ;)
for Fuji, make sure to get the Fuji c-mount adapter as Fuji is not micro 4/3. and Fuji's I think have larger sensors so there may be a chance of vignetting, but they do claim support for up to APS-C (Fuji, Sony) so there's a chance there's no vignetting. in terms of overall build quality, it's been over a year since I made this review so they may have improved the quality of production since that time but knowing China, they probably have already designed new versions that look completely different and if you are trying to get the exact one I'm reviewing, most likely that will be same exact line and you will have to rely on luck.
my honest opinion is that you research newer versions- but they might be a bit more expensive because they probably fixed all the problems of the older versions
so most C-mount lenses are really only possible for mirrorless cameras cuz the distance has to be fairly close to the sensor- and the opening of most mirrorless cams is extremely close to the sensor. but DLSR’s have a fairly large gap to accommodate for the mirror gate so yeah even if someone designs a c-mount adapter for DSLR’s the result is not going to be ideal. the lens being so far away it may have difficulty with focusing correctly and insane vignetting (plus with a lot of DSLR’s having somewhat larger sensors that might exaggerate the vignetting even more- which would result in a circular image)
none of what you see here, is not edited- meaning it has been adjusted to be softer. I'm mostly showing the differences in sharpness between lenses. Pre-editing, the lens will give you about the same contrasty saturated colors as any other lens.
cmount on its own doesn't vignette on a m43 sensor- it depends on the lens. the one here especially doesn't- the older fujian 25mm is a much smaller profile and vignettes a little. I have a tiny 2"x1" vintage cmount lens that vignettes so much- the picture's a circle. i can't speak for apsc...
I saw this video and bought this lens.... It can't focus past 2 feet. Almost as if it's only made for close-ups. Infinity is basically 2 ft away... Such a waste of time this lens is. I'd avoid this if I haven't bought it's yet
something's wrong with your particular lens then- just return it. mine goes to infinite just fine. it's less than 40 bucks, you're going to have to expect some error margin. you want a completely error free experience? get the official olympus 25mm 1.8. it's $400 but hey at least you won't waste your time.
FYI a better solution : (you don't need to glue it that way (a bit ugly), the problem comes from the black ring, not screwed tight enough to hold the stainless mount ring.)
1 - Locate/set the right mounting location of the lens to your adapter, unscrew the lens from the adapter (paying attention that the lens body and thread turn at the same time).
2 - With a flat screw driver lightly mark/scratch on the "stainless" mount the location of the "I" (located between the xmm I Fxx on the lens body).
3 - unscrew the 3 tiny flat head screws from the black ring (be careful, they are easy to strip).
4 - Apply pressure to the stainless mount toward the lens body and tighten the black ring (the one with the screws) until it is tight (the ring is threaded) making sure the stainless mount doesn't turn and stay aligned.
5 - Before tighting the screws, test the alignement with the adaptor on the camera body, if it is perfect you can tighten the screws (gently) other wise unscrew the black rear ring and redo from 4 or if your mark wasn't right redo from 2.
If no luck : unscrew the black ring completly and glue the stainless ring to its aligned position to the lens body and reassemble.
Pretty good lens for street. The one I got was called "Newyi" but it's exactly the same. Mine also came with extension tubes and a leica-clone lens hood
Great hack! Still works in 2019. Yes thanks for the recommendation
? It's 2020 and I am sure it will work till forever...
i bought my 35mm f1.6 yesterday for my lumix g7 and it's great even in low light thanks to the aperture
I have one on its way to me next week, I can't wait! I currently have the 25mm f1.4 that you showed in the beginning, and it's annoying having the focus ring in back and the aperture ring in front. I'm glad this one fixed that.
hope it works out for you and also hope you get a solid one! (as some have reported, theirs didn't come with the same issues that I faced)
I love my fujian 35 1.7 for its center sharpness and swirly bokeh. Just bought that 25 1.8 for general use.
I have the 35mm f1.6 version Newyi. Mine doesn't spin freely. I use it on a micro 4/3. I also have the 25mm f1.4 that you show in the video it has a cool swirly bokeh effect.
Thank you for the review and advice!
I had this for a day recently. Not bad for nearby obects, but for ladscape the corners fall apart big time. It is an awesome size though, like a pancake. I upgraded to the red ring one, which usually has a green ring, it is better but way heavier, not sure if keeing it as the edges are pretty bad for landscape. Centre sharness is great.
That lens is also described as a Fujian sometimes as a mark II version.
Matthew Huizing yes this is the Fujian MK II. They love changing the names. But didn't bother naming the one I ended up with.
@@qualo99 The fujian MK II is 35mm though, this one is 25mm?
Mine didn't have the mount problem - I think there is just variation in manufacture quality. One thing I noticed about this lens is that as you adjust focus there is an amount of zooming of focal length so your framing changes slightly. Not a biggie but distracting and not good for video if you are changing focus.
lol I knew there had to be some out there that didn't have a moving mount. Mine doesn't seem to have the strange zooming you mention- I guess it really is a gamble.
that looks a lot like the 7artisans, I will reviewing that soon
Mine came in today and its really sharp
own one, had a couple before. they're good for the price.
I'm curious to know if the newer 25mm 1.8 version covers the APS-C sensor. The uglier one (25mm 1.4) certainly does not. The older 35mm 1.7 works great, with a little vignetting that looks cool IMO.
Hi, I bought a vintage cine lens. Mount diameter is 16 mm. I do'nt know what type of mount it is. Its not C mount. I have C-EOS M adapter which does not fit on it. I guess I may require a special step up ring on which I could use C-EOS M adapter to use it on my Canon mirrorless camera. Your expertise would be highly appreciated. The lens was by mistake described as C mount. 1.5 INCH f1.9 SUPER COMAT TAYLOR AND HOBSON Lens ? MOUNT 16mm Movie lens. Do you have any adapters 1. which can adapt this lens to my Canon EOS M?2. Is there any D mount Cine lens to C adapter? Thanks for your expert opinion.
I just picked one up. My lens already has the mount on the adapter.
I wish you shot this in 4K. I got my Panasonic G7 for $499 when it's on sale.
Is this considered a wide angle on a crop sensor? Just picked one up. I hope so haha, Im looking to record myself doing music in a small room. I only need from the waste up. Probably sitting at a table. Do you think this will cover it? great review. subscribed.
Equalibrum so depends on the crop sensor- if you have a micro 4/3 like me, then the 25mm translates to 50mm film so not wide really. but for your purposes that might not be a problem. if you have an APSC crop sensor like a Sony then 25 translates to 37mm which is wider. let me know how it works out if you have any issues with it!
Thanks for the advice. I have a question: is the older f1.4 fujian significantlly brighter? I've heard that the newyi is not actually f1.8, but about f2.2 or something like that. Would that mean that the older fujian is also not as fast as it claims, or is it that much brighter (f1.4 vs f2.2)? Thanks.
it is, but at cost- the wider it goes the more and more the picture starts to get really hazy. as for is it accurate to 1.4? i don't know but i wouldn't bet on it. the error margin is probably such that you may get a slightly different brightness from lens to lens (like if you bought 2 of the same exact fujians they might be different). all in all, i would not categorize these as your serious professional use lenses. i strictly recommend that these be in the fun/artistic category- they're cheap, they're fully manual so you have full control, and sometimes its more fun to not get exactly what you pictured. sometimes the lens surprises you- it gives you more interesting shots. but if you're going to a paid shoot, yeah i wouldn't bring any of these haha.
Having an eos m3 with , 18-55 kit lens, 22mm prime, and the SMC Pentax M f/1.7 will this bring anything new to the table? I'm interested in it for cinematography
so here's the thing- this lens is more akin to a cine lens than a photography lens only in the sense that the aperture ring is clickless. you can roll the aperture smoothly if you're doing something like moving the camera from a really dark place to a really bright place for example. all cine lenses do this. what sets it apart from a standard cine lens however, is universal accessories like follow focus do not fit the tiny rings without modification. also, like i mention in the video, don't expect high quality construction- but if you baby the lens you should be fine. for $30-50, coupled with mods to adapt it to follow focus etc- it might be the best bang for buck cine-like lens especially considering a potential equivalent cine lens, say the Rokinon 24mm T1.5 is $400. another thing to consider is using an ND filter the front diameter is 37mm which is kind of rare so most likely you will have to get a ring adapter for whatever size ND filter you have. all in all, can't really complain cuz the price is so low (under $30 now) even with all the mods you can have a standard setup. for me personally, I've already moved on to actual cine lenses with better durability
@@cforcalvin Cool I'm all about bang for the buck, I'm pretty good at babying stuff so I won't have a problem with that ha, I got my step up rings and nd filters ready. The other reason I was considering this lens is to double up as a cheap macro lens with the c-mount macro rings. I really don't see how the price can be beat.
Which mirrorless body are you using this on? I just got one off ebay, and I can't get it to focus to infinity, no matter what I do. I have MFT and Sony mirroless.
i'm using the olympus pen-f, which is MFT- what is the issue exactly? like if it never reaches infinite even when you rotate the ring to the max, that sounds like there's a macro extension ring maybe screwed on in-between the lens and the camera mount adapter- and you should take off the macro ring and screw the lens back onto the mount adapter.
sometimes the lens focuses far past infinite at the point where it should be infinite- and that happens with a lot of adapted lenses (not just cheap ones). when that happens, i cut out small rings from cardstock or index cards and stack them in-between the lens and the mount adapter to push it forward a tiny bit so that the infinite point matches.
i gotta try this,coz the one i got is the thinner version the one with soft edges
Thank you for your vido and for the gluing tip. Otherwise the lens is useless.
yes, also- be careful with using it. Try not to be too rough with it. Although it is metal construction, the internal design has many faults: one of which is the aperture ring's end points aren't rock solid. If you push too hard, it can accidentally go past either end point which would break the aperture ring control.
But even if it does break, don't hesitate to return it- they'll gladly refund you and you can just get another one if you want.
Really appreciate this video, needed a nice review, I own both fujians so still in need for something 1.8 or 1.4 this seems great, any tips on how how to get a good copy in ebay?
So after some more research, fujian may have created this as a new version of the 35mm and 25mm and any of the other "brands" with the same style are basically the same lens. So unfortunately error margin will be the same no matter where you get this lens, which is kind of up in the air.
What you can do though, is look at where the lens is being shipped from- if it says coming from China, expect the customer service to be non-responsive. Hong Kong is more responsive. But I bought one of these from California, US and the first one broke (ring didn't turn iris anymore) so I sent it back and they refunded me no problem.
What's annoying is that the lens is made of better materials than the old one, it has sharper glass, more blades and better designed blades... but the assembly construction is hit or miss. And really, you should find a seller who you think will give you good customer service because you might need it.
Now there are two versions of this lens, the C-mount and the dedicated mount (micro 4/3, sony). I'm only talking about the C-mount version, it could be that the dedicated mount is better quality as it tends to be more expensive ($70-90) but I think what you're really paying for is the guarantee the mount won't move like the C-mount ;P.
Is the 7artisans 25mm 1.8 any better than this one?
So this is my understanding of how Chinese manufacturing works: if it looks the same- it's the same exact blueprint and most likely the same materials. The factory and the distributor may be different, and therefore the QA may be different. So if they charge more like the 7artisans brand does, most likely the error margin is less. Since this very particular no-brand version is around $30, the error margin may be quite high. If you have fundamental mechanical prowess, then taking a gamble on this one might be in your favor. But if you don't want to deal with any of that and just have peace of mind, you'd probably be happier spending more on lower error margin.
@@cforcalvin thanks very much, sir!
not sure to buy 25 or 35 mm of it, i use Olympus pen ep 3 so i think it would be good to choose 25mm for getting full view of a scene i am shooting, but it seems like 35 mm takes better photos and look more fancy, what would you advice?
well these new versions, both the 25 and 35 are useful for different styles of photography/cinema. 35 is more useful for close-ups and portraits and 25 is more useful for street. it depends on what you prefer to shoot- if you're like me who mostly does street photography, I would go with the 25.
Get em both... Less than $100 for two lenses. Why not
How does this compare to another nameless (Well sometimes it's reffered to as Fujian) 35mm F1.6 lens?
there's a typical Fujian (older model) that was literally taken off of cctv security cameras and I have that one also- it's not the same design inside and out. The glass isn't as sharp, there's a bit of vignetting and blurred edges to the picture, there are less blades so the bokeh isn't as smooth. But to its credit, the older one is more rugged- it can withstand several drops and the rings are more sturdy and solid. I also appreciate the rubber grips. So durability the older one wins (although it's not really fair cuz they probably have a million of these already made in the 80's sitting in a warehouse), the new ones are redesigned and so built with today's material standards (which suck compared to back then, they don't make em like they used to) but the performance is clearly better with this new updated version. Just don't expect to to take a beating ;)
How about for Fuji? Will it be good? Will there be vignetting? What about the infinity issues? I'm about to buy or not depending on your say...
for Fuji, make sure to get the Fuji c-mount adapter as Fuji is not micro 4/3. and Fuji's I think have larger sensors so there may be a chance of vignetting, but they do claim support for up to APS-C (Fuji, Sony) so there's a chance there's no vignetting. in terms of overall build quality, it's been over a year since I made this review so they may have improved the quality of production since that time but knowing China, they probably have already designed new versions that look completely different and if you are trying to get the exact one I'm reviewing, most likely that will be same exact line and you will have to rely on luck.
my honest opinion is that you research newer versions- but they might be a bit more expensive because they probably fixed all the problems of the older versions
Thank you, I just ordered the one on your video sir =)
I just bought a Fujian about 10 minutes before I watched this video, I kinda wish I'd watched the video first.
Finally I found a review on this lens! THANKS A LOT!
Btw, do anyone know if this lens can be used in a DSLR like Canon SL3? Or just mirrorless?
so most C-mount lenses are really only possible for mirrorless cameras cuz the distance has to be fairly close to the sensor- and the opening of most mirrorless cams is extremely close to the sensor. but DLSR’s have a fairly large gap to accommodate for the mirror gate so yeah even if someone designs a c-mount adapter for DSLR’s the result is not going to be ideal. the lens being so far away it may have difficulty with focusing correctly and insane vignetting (plus with a lot of DSLR’s having somewhat larger sensors that might exaggerate the vignetting even more- which would result in a circular image)
Thanx a lot
Are the samples here really soft or was this filtered?
none of what you see here, is not edited- meaning it has been adjusted to be softer. I'm mostly showing the differences in sharpness between lenses. Pre-editing, the lens will give you about the same contrasty saturated colors as any other lens.
Doesn't c mount vignet ?
cmount on its own doesn't vignette on a m43 sensor- it depends on the lens. the one here especially doesn't- the older fujian 25mm is a much smaller profile and vignettes a little. I have a tiny 2"x1" vintage cmount lens that vignettes so much- the picture's a circle.
i can't speak for apsc...
@@cforcalvin Alright thanks for the insight
Be sure not to glue your glove fuzz to the glass
link please?
I saw this video and bought this lens.... It can't focus past 2 feet. Almost as if it's only made for close-ups. Infinity is basically 2 ft away... Such a waste of time this lens is. I'd avoid this if I haven't bought it's yet
something's wrong with your particular lens then- just return it. mine goes to infinite just fine. it's less than 40 bucks, you're going to have to expect some error margin.
you want a completely error free experience? get the official olympus 25mm 1.8. it's $400 but hey at least you won't waste your time.
I just bought this lens and I had the same focusing problem...I made a video how I fixed this problem on my channel.
Its called a....... Drum roll........
Singkat lensa 25mm f 1.8 CCTV Lens