You can still get the hologram effect / chatoyance. I re-did an AK and watched your video before I did it. 1. Sand to bright wood, until you get to a 220 grit finish, (you can do 320, but you have to use fresh paper with light pressure.) 2. Stain with Sedona Red Stain by dipping a shop towel in the stain, then squeezing the stain back out of the cloth. 3.5 . Optional - soak some boiled linseed oil into the wood. The aforementioned oil stain was supposed to fix that though. 3. Using amber shellac and an 8 oz cup, add two shot glasses of denatured alcohol, and 1 shot glass of shellac. (1lb cut.) Saturate a shop towel with this shellac mixture and apply it with long strokes, making sure it soaks into the wood. This is how you get the 3D effect. For more orange color, go ahead and use Shellac straight out of the can. If you want, you can French Polish your gun.
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 -- All wood gives you a hologram effect. You need a finish that soaks into the wood as well as builds a protective layer. This is why I suggested diluting amber shellac into alcohol. The alcohol thins the shellac out so it's easier for it to soak in to the wood. You MUST keep the gun out of moisture in order to preserve the finish. -- Iodine helps give you the color. There are MANY ways to get color though. My comment is 5 years old now, so I have better ways of doing it now. -- You can use a shop towel to wipe Gunstock stain on the stock to get a red-ish color. Then after a day of cure time, wipe it with a shop towel wetted with rubbing alcohol. This will reduce the intensity of the stain and clean the pores in the wood. Then, add coats of Tung oil, or Antique oil. This should take about 8 coats. It's more moisture resistant. You can get a water-proof setup with Epoxy, but you need to use water or alcohol based dye. I simply haven't experimented enough with that process to make any suggestions though. My epoxy work is typically done on surfaces that are already attractive and we're just trying to preserve that appearance.
@@Dr_Xyzt Cool thank you so much for replying. When you say gunstock stain do you mean the gunstock 231 color stain? Did you thin the iodine at all and how did you apply it?
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 Yes, gunstock 231. No iodine at all. Stain it and let it sit overnight. Wipe excess with an alcohol dampened shop towel. If you want it more brown, you can put a light coat of black walnut on first. Gunstock stain has a bit of red in it. Apply coats of Minwax Tung Oil or Antique oil as instructed on the can.
So far so good, I did a lot of prep, sanded to a very smooth finish and its soaking up the iodine great. Im going to use Garnet shellac instead of amber to see how it looks.
When you state “colored iodine” is there a very specific color I should look for? I have the amber shellec ready to go, just need to try and get some iodine. Thanks in advance!
The shellac he mentioned in this video is actually pretty thick. It will give you the brush strokes your looking for like the Russian's. The advantage the chips have is they have a longer shelf life and you can mix up as much as you need and not waste any.
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 Yeah read that too. I ordered amber and ruby shellac to test it out on my bare stock. Hope the results will be good. That stuff is expensive... And I was wrong, you mix it with ethanol/alcohol not with turpentine...
@@majormassenspektrometer Ya it's super expensive. That's the only thing stopping me from ordering a bunch of different colors of shellac's and dye stains. So you must of went with the flakes then? Are you gonna use both or mix them or do some testing and pick the best one?
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 I've been reading on the internet about original russian AKM finishes for about three days now and if you google for it, you get some pretty good advice from it. What I want to try out is from a website from which the author makes a pretty knowledgeable impression. For Izhmash Finish he writes to use 2.5-3.0lb cut pure shellac (ruby) and apply 2-3 layers max. For the Tula finish one should use dark pine tar as a 50/50 mix with turpentine, apply it, let it dry then rub the excess pine tar off with a turpentine soaked cloth and after that apply ruby shellac. That is what I want to try out. I ordered some different coloured flakes like ruby and amber. Just want to try out different things. I also got Swedish dark pine tar and turpentine to go with it. Just for trying it out I spent more money than I'm comfortable with but what the heck you only live once.
I think shellac is fine for the stock but I have seen the shellac on the front hand guards literally melt and turn into a gooey mess when the barrel got hot enough on a friends AK. I used tongue oil on my front guards.
Iodine works great ! Also if you want that translation look buff the pieces after sanding! Tung oil also can be used as it is very durable! Nice job !!
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 it turned nice dark with 3 color shade of wood showing...but I did another just yesterday with red iodine on laminated handgaurd...kept applying till it got dark as it would go..light buff with 00 wool and true oiled it with 7 coats...thats the closest I've got to real Russian look..it shows yellow orange and dark red..i will definitely use the iodine on a butt stock...theres nothing on RUclips about iodine..but it works well...
@@dougshelton69 Dam I wish I could see it. How did you apply the iodine exactly? Did you soak it or did you thin it? Did you have any problems with the iodine guming up? Or did you apply it like wood stain and leave it on for a while and then wipe it off? When I tried applying straight iodine it kept gelling up on the stock and I could only get so much on it and so dark. You're right there's basically nothing about iodine on RUclips unfortunately
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 I used Iodine tincture ups 100% (2% iodine) from Walgreens...i just applied with a cotton patch..it dried rather quickly and about 7 coats it was dark..let stand overnight..then finished it..what brand were you using? I ordered a unfinished stock from aoa to do next...
@@dougshelton69 The brand I'm using is MedLine Ready Prep Povidone Iodine 10%. I got it from a hospital when I had surgery. But I have an unopened bottle of Walmart's Equate brand. It's Povidone Iodine 10% too. Whatever that means. Maybe I should try that kind and see if it's any different.
Has anyone been able to get this to work? I’m using a really light Birch and the same iodine and amber shellac method and mine is a bright orange. Ive also tried Sedona Red and amber shellac but to no avail.
I'm rookie who's hooked to "russian red" and started project to change WASR-10 "blond" wood to "russian red" (blood red). I got it that iodine is your "red" stain and amber shellac is finish clear (?) coat But here's my question......the furniture color "I see" in your youtude video is NOT blood red, but looks like rich glossy dark brown.....do you agree ? Don't think it's my laptop cuz I see blood red color in this youtube link - ruclips.net/video/D1QChYCAjJE/видео.html Please advise.....is your furniture blood red or rich glossy dark brown ?......thanks
Umm you might be getting confused with colors.. this video is to achieve a original Russian factory color (Izzy finish) witch is a gold/iodine colored finish... not red nor brown, If your looking for a red color you could possibly find videos just like the one you tagged in your comment for directions. Russian red isn’t an original color but more of a custom color people do with a cool name.. but no my furniture is a replica of an original Russian color not brown or red.. hope I was able to help
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 he asked about under folder stocks, I replied it ain't really sought after in America, as in Africa and Middle East, about half of all AKs have under folder stocks.
You can still get the hologram effect / chatoyance. I re-did an AK and watched your video before I did it.
1. Sand to bright wood, until you get to a 220 grit finish, (you can do 320, but you have to use fresh paper with light pressure.)
2. Stain with Sedona Red Stain by dipping a shop towel in the stain, then squeezing the stain back out of the cloth.
3.5 . Optional - soak some boiled linseed oil into the wood. The aforementioned oil stain was supposed to fix that though.
3. Using amber shellac and an 8 oz cup, add two shot glasses of denatured alcohol, and 1 shot glass of shellac. (1lb cut.) Saturate a shop towel with this shellac mixture and apply it with long strokes, making sure it soaks into the wood. This is how you get the 3D effect. For more orange color, go ahead and use Shellac straight out of the can. If you want, you can French Polish your gun.
Is the iodine what gives it the hologram effect???
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420
-- All wood gives you a hologram effect. You need a finish that soaks into the wood as well as builds a protective layer. This is why I suggested diluting amber shellac into alcohol. The alcohol thins the shellac out so it's easier for it to soak in to the wood. You MUST keep the gun out of moisture in order to preserve the finish.
-- Iodine helps give you the color. There are MANY ways to get color though. My comment is 5 years old now, so I have better ways of doing it now.
-- You can use a shop towel to wipe Gunstock stain on the stock to get a red-ish color. Then after a day of cure time, wipe it with a shop towel wetted with rubbing alcohol. This will reduce the intensity of the stain and clean the pores in the wood. Then, add coats of Tung oil, or Antique oil. This should take about 8 coats. It's more moisture resistant. You can get a water-proof setup with Epoxy, but you need to use water or alcohol based dye. I simply haven't experimented enough with that process to make any suggestions though. My epoxy work is typically done on surfaces that are already attractive and we're just trying to preserve that appearance.
@@Dr_Xyzt Cool thank you so much for replying. When you say gunstock stain do you mean the gunstock 231 color stain? Did you thin the iodine at all and how did you apply it?
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 Yes, gunstock 231. No iodine at all. Stain it and let it sit overnight. Wipe excess with an alcohol dampened shop towel. If you want it more brown, you can put a light coat of black walnut on first. Gunstock stain has a bit of red in it. Apply coats of Minwax Tung Oil or Antique oil as instructed on the can.
@@Dr_Xyzt You only do 1 coat? I'm going for an orange color with maybe a hint of yellow/redish/brown
Looks really really good. Thanks for the great info
So far so good, I did a lot of prep, sanded to a very smooth finish and its soaking up the iodine great. Im going to use Garnet shellac instead of amber to see how it looks.
Does it look orange or is it kinda brown like his is?
When you state “colored iodine” is there a very specific color I should look for?
I have the amber shellec ready to go, just need to try and get some iodine.
Thanks in advance!
I believe it’s ether clear or colored. if it’s brown then that’s the one you want. There isn’t any different shades, just the one brown color
@@CSZerinoHow do you get the hologram effect like the Russian's???
Great video. Thanks . I really enjoyed the info. Thinking about doing this to a rifle...
Did you do it?
Very informative video. Thanks!
I read it's better to get shellac chips and mix with turpentine to a thicker mix so you get the brush texture of shellac on the wood.
The shellac he mentioned in this video is actually pretty thick. It will give you the brush strokes your looking for like the Russian's. The advantage the chips have is they have a longer shelf life and you can mix up as much as you need and not waste any.
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 Yeah read that too. I ordered amber and ruby shellac to test it out on my bare stock. Hope the results will be good. That stuff is expensive... And I was wrong, you mix it with ethanol/alcohol not with turpentine...
@@majormassenspektrometer Ya it's super expensive. That's the only thing stopping me from ordering a bunch of different colors of shellac's and dye stains. So you must of went with the flakes then? Are you gonna use both or mix them or do some testing and pick the best one?
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 I've been reading on the internet about original russian AKM finishes for about three days now and if you google for it, you get some pretty good advice from it. What I want to try out is from a website from which the author makes a pretty knowledgeable impression. For Izhmash Finish he writes to use 2.5-3.0lb cut pure shellac (ruby) and apply 2-3 layers max.
For the Tula finish one should use dark pine tar as a 50/50 mix with turpentine, apply it, let it dry then rub the excess pine tar off with a turpentine soaked cloth and after that apply ruby shellac.
That is what I want to try out. I ordered some different coloured flakes like ruby and amber. Just want to try out different things. I also got Swedish dark pine tar and turpentine to go with it. Just for trying it out I spent more money than I'm comfortable with but what the heck you only live once.
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 Will do that! Good luck with your testing!
wow you nailed it!
I think shellac is fine for the stock but I have seen the shellac on the front hand guards literally melt and turn into a gooey mess when the barrel got hot enough on a friends AK. I used tongue oil on my front guards.
What kind of shellac did he use?
Povidone iodine is available on Amazon for cheap.
Beautiful
Thank you so much!!!!
Iodine works great ! Also if you want that translation look buff the pieces after sanding! Tung oil also can be used as it is very durable! Nice job !!
If I use straight iodine will it turn out orange or is it kinda brown too?
So what are the steps for the polyurethane finish?
You can get colored iodine at most farm and ranch stores. It will be in the horse medical supply section
Can you put these on a saiga 103 ?
How about Minwax Sedona Red? GREAT JOB on both! Helpful!
I used powder dye dark walnut and deluded it to make 3 shades and lots of sanding..finished with linseed oil ..then clear coated...
What color did it end up? Did you get the hologram izzy finish???
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 it turned nice dark with 3 color shade of wood showing...but I did another just yesterday with red iodine on laminated handgaurd...kept applying till it got dark as it would go..light buff with 00 wool and true oiled it with 7 coats...thats the closest I've got to real Russian look..it shows yellow orange and dark red..i will definitely use the iodine on a butt stock...theres nothing on RUclips about iodine..but it works well...
@@dougshelton69 Dam I wish I could see it. How did you apply the iodine exactly? Did you soak it or did you thin it? Did you have any problems with the iodine guming up? Or did you apply it like wood stain and leave it on for a while and then wipe it off? When I tried applying straight iodine it kept gelling up on the stock and I could only get so much on it and so dark. You're right there's basically nothing about iodine on RUclips unfortunately
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 I used Iodine tincture ups 100% (2% iodine) from Walgreens...i just applied with a cotton patch..it dried rather quickly and about 7 coats it was dark..let stand overnight..then finished it..what brand were you using? I ordered a unfinished stock from aoa to do next...
@@dougshelton69 The brand I'm using is MedLine Ready Prep Povidone Iodine 10%. I got it from a hospital when I had surgery. But I have an unopened bottle of Walmart's Equate brand. It's Povidone Iodine 10% too. Whatever that means. Maybe I should try that kind and see if it's any different.
I never manage to get the finish I want. always getting strokes or runs.
Has anyone been able to get this to work? I’m using a really light Birch and the same iodine and amber shellac method and mine is a bright orange. Ive also tried Sedona Red and amber shellac but to no avail.
I do not believe they use birch on russians just yugos. Minwax gunstock oil stain gets it close with a gloss poly top coat. Iodine it first.
So you used iodine first then minwax gunstock? What color did it end up with?
Show us not tell us
Hell yeah man thanks!
Of course!
hello master ak47 wood materials are made of what I would appreciate if you help me
Russia Did not use Shellac they used pine tar
Very nice but tung oil is better to use than shellac but that's just my opinion.
Of course I agree as well but to keep things original
What color stain is this?
So you put polyurethane over the shellac finish?
Roy Villanueva yes I did I only used the shellac for the color
@@ThatNikeKixKid You applied one coat of Poly after the shellac dried up?
What hologram look? I havent seen Dart Vader poping out of that stock anywhere
Look closer, he's there
They don’t sell the iodine anymore over the shelf because of the meth cooks…
Me: excuse me do you guys have the iodine?
Store employee: not today meth boi
I'm rookie who's hooked to "russian red" and started project to change WASR-10 "blond" wood to "russian red" (blood red).
I got it that iodine is your "red" stain and amber shellac is finish clear (?) coat But here's my question......the furniture color "I see" in your youtude video is NOT blood red, but looks like rich glossy dark brown.....do you agree ?
Don't think it's my laptop cuz I see blood red color in this youtube link - ruclips.net/video/D1QChYCAjJE/видео.html
Please advise.....is your furniture blood red or rich glossy dark brown ?......thanks
Umm you might be getting confused with colors.. this video is to achieve a original Russian factory color (Izzy finish) witch is a gold/iodine colored finish... not red nor brown, If your looking for a red color you could possibly find videos just like the one you tagged in your comment for directions. Russian red isn’t an original color but more of a custom color people do with a cool name.. but no my furniture is a replica of an original Russian color not brown or red.. hope I was able to help
@@ThatNikeKixKid my bad....thanks
اخمس ابوشنداختين لش ماكو
اخمس غير مرغوب بامريكا .... متعب مع الرمي المتواصل. .
@@stoegerstewie8351 What are you saying???
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 he asked about under folder stocks, I replied it ain't really sought after in America, as in Africa and Middle East, about half of all AKs have under folder stocks.