How To Remove Tire From Wheel At Home With Manual Tire Changer.
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2024
- If you're wondering how to remove a low profile tire from an alloy wheel at home, using an inexpensive manual tire changer without damaging the wheel - this video shows the complete process.
In this example, I'll be removing a 235/45R20 tire from an alloy wheel to demonstrate how well this works on a fairly large low profile tire without any wheel damage. If a manual tire changer and duck head mod works on this size, it will work on many.
If you want to know more about the actual manual tire changer and how to mount it, please see the Part 1 Installation video: • How To Install A Manua...
Part 3 covers mounting & balancing tires using this manual tire changer and a bubble balancer: • Mount and Balance Tire...
In Part 4, I'm repairing a scratched (by a careless tire shop) alloy wheel which was a big reason I wanted to start doing my own tire service in the first place: • Scratch Repair On Allo...
Part 5 Covers Easy Valve Stem Replacement (cheap valves rotted out in under a year):
• Don't Get Stranded! DI...
One Year Update - Tips & Tricks
• Mastering The Manual T...
Time Chapters:
0:00 Howdy Folks
0:28 Duck Head Mod Components
5:56 Bead Breaker Modifications
8:43 Breaking the Bead
12:19 Fitting the Wheel & Duck Head
14:16 Removing The Tire From Wheel
18:07 Conclusion
Links:
- Manual Tire Changer:
amzn.to/3DnNiVt
- Duck Bill/Head manual tire changer mod I got from eBay seller in Canada:
www.ebay.ca/itm/373624493594
- Lucid Auto Werks Ultimate Duck Bill/Head manual tire changer mod:
lucidautowerks.com/collection...
- 24" Tire Iron:
amzn.to/3jeYM6N
- Nylon Wheel Scratch Protecting Socks for above tire iron:
amzn.to/3qdmkvU
- Tire Lube:
amzn.to/3RfzdPy
- Tire Valve Stem Removal Tool Set:
amzn.to/3RhpesO
- EVA 2'x2' Foam Relief/Exercise Mats:
amzn.to/3JwD7ln
DISCLAIMER: This video is for information and entertainment purposes only. It's no substitute for prior tire removal/installation experience and/or training. You remove & mount tires at your own risk.
Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my channel which helps me keep creating content.
Please consider giving a thumbs up & subscribe if you enjoy my content - thank you & thanks for watching :) 
Авто/Мото
Manual Tire Changer One Year Update with Tips & Tricks
ruclips.net/video/QND8n_ArNRo/видео.htmlsi=XUwyuzHL1dCcrmhl
Manual Tire Changing Series: Part 1 - Manual Changer Overview & Mounting
ruclips.net/video/06Jr9t1CnNQ/видео.htmlsi=wvgbwoxDUN1l1LLG
Part 2 - Duck Head Modification & Tire Removal
ruclips.net/video/wXsloeT0QhE/видео.htmlsi=4UjZIhoC37FezvoB
Part 3 - Mounting & Balancing Tire
ruclips.net/video/IX7DvJo7A8E/видео.htmlsi=OTW5yzmpjdq7W5tL
Part 4 - Repairing Tire Shop Damaged Wheel
ruclips.net/video/hn0XbHgvnFY/видео.htmlsi=Sm4y9yX2i7_zWbcm
Part 5 - Valve Stem Replacement Without Tire Removal
ruclips.net/video/pr4bwIlc69o/видео.htmlsi=waOAvduaulSryRZl
Hi John. having changed more tires than I can count with powered machines of course what I'm about to suggest works with powered machines or your manual. when you slide the iron in the bead so that you can pull the tire over the duck, press down on the opposite side to make sure the tire is not up against the bead and down in the free space of the wheel that will give you much more room on the side you're working on.
Appreciate the tip 👍
Hi John, simple fix for the risk of it dropping is a bungee cord to recoil it back up. The amount of resistance is going to be super low but enough to stop it dropping
I just bought one these tire changers and having watched many RUclips videos, I have noticed that the base components provided for bolting the unit down seem to be problematic in a number of ways, and so I decided to discard them and simply bolt the square flange at the base of the tube directly to the concrete floor. I used flush drop-in anchors so I could remove the machine when not needed, with no protrusions. Mounting in this way removes anything from the equation that can flex, and has resulted in an absolutely rigid installation. This mounting option also eliminates anything that can mar sensitive rims during bead breaking. I will definitely be building the duck head mod! Thanks so much for your informative videos!
I did the same and have inserts installed in the concrete both inside and outside the shop for a choice of where to work.
Thanks for posting this series. I'm rarely happy with the job on replacement tires. I've always wanted to try these manual tires changers.
Thanks for watching
These are some nice mods. Thank you for sharing. We have several kids driving their own cars and buying good junk yard tires. One of these tire changers will help with cost. Something I use on my garage jack to protect surfaces is a hockey puck. They are really hard but seem to provide protection. Drill a hole in one and glue over that bolt.
I first came across your vids as an rc heli fan but have stayed for all your content. Is there anything you cant turn your hand to!?😂 Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertse. Great to see you back creating great content 👍
Jack of all - master of none 🙃 Appreciate the support. 👍
Great video, Thanks. BTW---weld a little weight to that pin and that will keep it straight up.
I’m looking forward to new tire’s getting mounted, thanks John 👍😁
You and me both 🙂
All you gotta do now is the balancing when you put the new tires on.. great video mate 🤙🏼🇦🇺
That's the plan 👍🙂
Hi John, good video, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it & thanks for watching
Thanks for your top video ✌🏼
Thanks back for watching 👍
Superb info thanks for sharing :)
My pleasure
Instead of rare earth magnets, I used a HF 1"x18" bar magnet. Place magnet on breaker tube, raise tube to where bar magnet touches both column and under round hub. Now tack weld in place on column and under hub. Cut excess magnet off just below hub. Magnet was free, works better than a bungee cord. Good luck ☝️
👍
About breaking the bead working your way around wirh lube is key like you said I noticed most people don't do it and fight the bead breaker and bend it. That was the first thing I was going to reinforce the bead breaker but it doesn't need.
Hi John. I removed the pin from the tire changer and drop in a 3/8" drive extension through the lug hole and into the slot where the pin was.
Good idea
Yes, I am interested in part 3 ! I quite often have one TPMS sensor needing a new battery and I have to wait until the tire needs replacement. With this DIY method, I will be able to replace it myself anytime the TPMS battery fails. Would also be useful for my vintage BMW which had one of its rim scratched by the tire shop👺👺 Now you have to teach us how to balance the tire/rim at home !!!😉 Is this rim /tire for your MB ??
@1983dmd - Not sure when BlackCircles.ca starts its annual spring sale, but once I get the new running shoes here, I'll aim to get a half decent mounting video done.
Balancing I'll likely still have done at the local tire shop afterward. Hopefully they can't screw that up too - haha. I may order one of those bubble balancer doo-dads however just to see how well it might work; I'm not holding my breath with only a static balance on wide wheels. Good eye on the wheel brand.
I've replaced many TPMS sensors without dismounting the tire. Just break the outside bead only, push the sidewall down, change the sensor. If you don't have room, you can use some wood to help keep the bead down while changing the sensor. If the replacement sensor is the same weight, no balancing necessary because you didn't change the tire position on the rim. You can always weigh the old and new on a postal scale but typically the difference in weight even from different TPMS manufacturers is usually less then the smallest wheel weight anyway.
Given the price of the component parts, might want to look at the No-Mar brand changers. They are a little more expensive, but they come with polymer tips on the bead breaker and the tire changing bar so they won’t scratch alloy wheels. I bought mine for motorcycle tires and haven’t changed a car tire, but their videos show that most of their models will also handle car tires. Probably won’t handle the tires on my Chevy 2500HD though. 🙂
12:50 on mine, the pin goes through to the bottom so it can be repositioned as needed from under the platform as you place the wheel on.
You seem to be the only person on RUclips doing videos about this tire changer that understands Newtonian physics! Well done!!
I suggest cutting off the floppy alignment pin and just using a bolt. This way, you place the wheel on the changer then easily spin it until the wheel stud hole aligns with the hole in the base and drop the bolt in. Don't need 3 hands to hold the tire/wheel while trying to align the floppy pin.
Thanks for the tip on the pin. When I installed the Neodymium magnets to hold the bead breaker up, I also put one beside the pin shaft and it now always sits upright let allows articulation for the various hole placements. Working great now 🙂
Love it.
👍
Put a flexible plastic long tube, like foot or so in length, that fits over the pin bolt "hole aligner" to guide it through the lug nut hole of the wheel then it will guide itself over that bolt below then just pull it off once onto tire changer mount. 12:21
Nice! Im in Canada also, so I got the manual tire changer from Princess Auto. Just received my duck bill from Amazon, now I need to start building!
My brother has a 3D printer, maybe il ask him to make the centering cone. What material did you print it out of?
Where did you find your tire/bead lube?
Thank you!
PLA (100% infill). Amazon.
On the breaker.. a spring in the pipe would pull it up or down and hold it there.
The pin that goes through one lug nut hole to hold rim from spinning when tighten down, have to put plastic tube atound it from when it moves, wont mar your rim.
This mod is a nice, clean installation, but it costs too much for me. I constructed mine out of some round and square tubing, a Hunter duckbill and a bit of welding for about $35. I did add some extra metal to the bead breaker on this HF tire changer because it was weak for use on run flats but I also have a separate dedicated bead breaker operated manually. By the way, the round tube on the bead breaker won't last much longer than the bars from the tube to the spoon so get some 4130 for that. One thing that was unanticipated is that a 3 ft bar on a setup like this seems to exert a lot more force than some of the automated machines for removing and installing a tire. Tires that slowed or stopped a powered machine were a snap with my setup. I lathe cut a couple of centering cones from aluminum. Bead breaking is the biggest pain in the butt so I'm considering a mod that would use an air powered hydraulic ram in place of the original, flimsy bead breaking stuff.
Hi John. Great video! Could you share the link for the 3D printed centering cone that will fit these tire changers? Thanks in advance.
There is no link, I made mine in a couple minutes on Tinkercad. The center tube diameters vary on these things as I mentioned in the video so if you want a cone that fits, it's best to make your own so its sized correctly for the tube.
Thanks for these videos. There’s a lot of garbage out there regarding this topic… I’d love to know if you think it would do a light truck (LT) 10 ply tire?
No idea on LT tires since I've never done one. The only thing I can relay after doing 26 tires now, is every one gets a little easier as you perfect your personal technique and I can't see a LT tire being much of a problem. I think I remember a Lucid Autowerks video of him doing a truck tire without issue. Likely best to contact one of the duckhead head mod builders to get their take on limitations.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks!
Hi John. I was just getting ready to cut my duck head adapter attachment tube in order to fit the collars and needle bearings just as you have done. I have the same exact one as you that I purchased off E bay from the Canada seller. I noticed how much lower this brings the duck bill down closer to the rim. I noticed in your video that the tire hits the top arm when removing the second bead. Doesn't seem to be an issue on your wheels but on my wheels, that are much deeper, dish/ bowl type, this looks to be an issue. I think the solution would be to cut the original threaded center post off the stand and weld an extension pipe, the same amount that would be cut off in order to maintain the clearance of the original design. Even if you purchased the Lucid auto works adapter you would still have the same issue. I'm giving this mod a second look because of this. Any thoughts or ideas?
Excellent question Richard. Yes, that's the concern with any modification and it's ultimately the users call. The old risk/benefit logical decision process; in this case swing arm to wheel clearance vs. swing arm stability on the center post. I had measured all my wheels and knew it wouldn't be an issue. Even did some 255/40/18's without issue as they sit lower on the plate than these MB wheels shown in the video, but if your wheel sits high on the plate or is uber wide, clearance very well may be an issue without coming at it in a different way. 🤔
Pool noodle or pipe insulation on pipe bead breaker helps protect . Also bungee connected to the changer post helps along with magnets
Do you thing this kind of manual tire changer would work for even bigger, low profile tires? Like 265/35 R18 or 295/35 R21. I also like that it doesn't take so much space.
Without doing those sizes, I can say for sure; 295 is a bloody wide tire! Last week I did a set of 255/40/R18 and had no issues (each set gets easier and faster with more practice). This specific duckhead mod will easily extend out to accommodate an R21, so that's not what I would be hesitant about. The dimension I would be worried about however is the width of the tire.
The distance between the duckhead swing arm to the top of the wheel could be the limiting factor with really wide tires (when removing the back bead). As shown in this video, even the 235's where rubbing on the edge of swing arm when I was doing the back bead. Certainly not enough to prevent removal however. Also, a 21" tire would likely be large enough in diameter to get over the swing arm when you are removing the back bead so that large diameter might help in that respect.
The space between the swing arm and wheel is also dependent on the wheel shape. These MB wheels in the video sat fairly high in relation to the plate on the manual changer so that brought them closer up toward the swing arm. The 255/40/18's I did last week had lots of room because the wheel sat lower on the plate.
Moreover, if I didn't mod my duck head mod attachment by cutting about 4" off the end to make it function like Lucid's (clamped on both ends of the center tube), then there would be a good deal more height. Of course it then wouldn't sit as securely on the center tube.
In short, there are lots of variables involved but with a little ingenuity, thought and perhaps further mods, these manual changers with duckhead swing arms should be able to do pretty much any size passenger vehicle tire I would think. The more I use it, the more it impresses me.
Great video! I need to do this upgrade to my HF changer
Any chance you can upload or point us to the STL files for the cones you printed?
Mine are not sized for the HF changer tube so they wouldn't fit. I made them really quickly in about 1 minute on Tinkercad. There might be one on Thingiverse if memory recalls; but again, the center tube diameters vary so it's best if you make yours for your specific changer.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks, I'll give that a try.
what size and where did you get the thrust bearings and lock collars? Im in Canada as well
Tube diameters will vary on these manual changers so the only way to correctly size the collars and thrust bearings to know you are getting the right size, is to measure the center tube on your specific changer. I ordered all my bits off eBay.
Spring works better than magnets
Could you put your bar in the end of the square tube and pull it around? It would give you more leverage and prevent the bar from hitting the rim if it slipped. Also put a flat do nut type of rubber ring on the tire changer's base where the pin goes up. Make a hole in the ring to tightly fit through the hole. That should keep the pin from wobbling and missing the stud holes.
Yes you could; once you have successfully lifted the bead over the duckhead and got it started of course. I have tried both ways of dismounting and find doing it the way I demo in the video is the quickest with the most control and keeps the duck-head in the best alignment.
I do however always use the bar in end of the top tube when mounting tires: ruclips.net/video/IX7DvJo7A8E/видео.html
Good idea on the rubber around the pin for vertical positioning. I ended up putting a rare earth (neodymium) magnet in the pin base when I put rare earth magnets on the bottom plate and bead breaker which has been working great at keeping the pin positioned upright, yet still allows full range of movement.
Thanks for your top video .What size is the bushing ?
As sated in the video, sizes of the tubes vary so there is no one size bushing that fits all. You have to measure the OD of the center post on the changer and ID of the duck head mod tube to determine spacer size. Some just wrap window washer fluid bottle plastic around to take up the slop, some get actual bronze bushings - it's totally up to the DIYer and what you have handy.
@@Rchelicopterfun Gracias Amigo God Bless you.
really nice John. I think we will need to install a tire changer. Just a few years ago it was #12-$15 at Our local tire guy and that is now $32 per tire + tax and disposal so you are up tpo $35-40 a tire which is exhorbatant. We have a lot of cars and trucks and always look for deals with used tires but if you dont buy new from the tire shop you pay thru the nose. Online tire sales have killed the cheap installs so now the shops really charge. Even Wall mart is up to nearly tire shop prices in our area. We go to Canada sometimes and could probably bring stuff to you depending upon where you live.
@cal48koho - Yep, seems all services keep costing more and more; with quality often getting worse and worse unfortunately. I don't mind paying top dollar for quality work, but when I'm getting my alloys scratched more times than not, and having to go back several times because the balance was so bad over the past decade at various tire shops, I basically had enough. The final kicker was our local shop in our remote location refusing to do anything that resembled a lower profile tire, even for a simple patch repair, so I was in a real bind until I found a few of these manual tire changer duck head mod forum posts and started researching the process.
The other factor as you pointed out is the actual tire cost savings that can be found online at places like Tire Rack in the US and Black Circles up here in Canada which I've used now for my last 6 sets of tires. They are always a good 20%+ less than the best quoted prices from even discount shops with free shipping right to my door to boot :)
Thanks for watching & commenting 🙂👍
I may be missing something, but wouldn't it be easier to stick your bar into the 90 deg duck adapter(square channel) for leverage, instead of standing 180 deg on the other side and using the bar to grunt/hump the adapter around at the rim? Your mod for this is awesome!
Yes, two main reasons:
1. When starting the rotation, you need precise control of the removal tire iron to both pull on the tire bead while keeping the tire bead from dropping off the duck head which is only possible if you are manipulating it from the back side; even using both hands on the iron while using your body to swing the big bar. That control would not be possible with the big bar in the top tube.
2. There would be too much flex on the duck head down tube, at least with lower profile tires with stiffer sidewalls like these ones. Keeping the bar as close to the duckhead as possible ensures it won't flex much.
However, you do use that square tube in the method you suggested when mounting the tires as shown in part 3: ruclips.net/video/IX7DvJo7A8E/видео.html
@@Rchelicopterfun Okay, Makes sense. Thx
Remove the pin and insert a rod or a screwdriver from the top. This will prevent you from lining the pin to the lug nuts hole.
Nice! 👍
try a tire stud and use a lug nut to hold down the rim but make sure the stud is a little taller than the rim
Better than holding it down with the centering cone?
@@Rchelicopterfun YES IT WILL HELP YOU MIGHT TRY TO BOLT THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE STUD SO THAT YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO ANY WELDING YOU MAY LIKE IT YOU MIGHT LIKE WELDING IT.
Are these duckbills made of hard plastic?... or how do they not mark up the rim as they run around? I mean, it looks like it's sitting on top and with the pressure from the tire bead I always assumed it's riding the surface of the rim. Thanks for the demo, this is my tire size also.
This one like many is made from Nylon (strong & slippery). It rides against the lip of the rim. As long as the rim surface is clean (no sand, grit or balance beads), and has tire lube on it, the Nylon won't scratch. I also mention how well Nylon tire iron socks work in the one year update video: ruclips.net/video/QND8n_ArNRo/видео.html
The tire iron had the most potential to scratch the wheels, but not anymore with those wonderful Nylon socks 🙂
I have the harbor freight manual tire changer. Is there a duck bill kit for it?
They are universal.
I wonder if a "screen door spring" would work just as well as a rare earth magnet. even if it slips.. well Gravity.. I would also be inclined to try a longer bar to slip over the original bar tool for more leverage It looked like if the bar was longer you wouldn't have to continue to 'bump it'.
Good thoughts on the spring. As for more leverage during bead breaking, there is more than enough. I wasn't pushing down that hard. There is a very fine line between where the foot is apply force on the bead and slipping backward on the sidewall. Any harder and the foot just compresses the sidewall downward to the point it slips backward into the middle of the sidewall without budging the bead loose; this is not good for the tire either. Having done 20 wheels now and getting easier & faster each time, it just seems the tire lube has to pernitrate the bead before it will budge regardless of force applied (at least when using this design of foot on these manual changers).
Where did you get your tire changer? A link would be great
In description as usual.
I wonder if this solution here would also work for motorcycle wheels/tires.
Not sure? Perhaps someone with a duckbill/head mod who has used it for that application will chime in.
There is a motorcycle wheel attachment that used to be available from HF but also from other places that accepts the small axle diameters. Some rear wheels with larger center openings will fit on this setup. I use the Mojolever for removing and installing motorcycle tires.
Is this the same tire changer that harbor freight sells? I wonder if your other parts are compatible… 🤔
Yes; as covered in part 1 of the series: ruclips.net/video/06Jr9t1CnNQ/видео.html
will 21" low profile work? 245/35/21 , 265/35/21 tire size
The limitation on wheel diameter size is the length of the Duck-Head mod swing arm. This one I have, the swing arm is long enough to do up to 22" wheels.
As for wheel/tire width and profile height, that is more complicated to answer:
1st. Mechanically, max wheel/tire width is dependent on the length of the Duck-Head mod center post and the distance of the wheel backing plate to the front lip of the rim (wheel offset). You'll notice in this video, when I was removing the back bead, the tire was rubbing on the swing arm. Still very doable, but the fact I cut mine shorter to accommodate the length of the center tube on this specific changer, I inadvertently compromised maximum tire removal width.
I have done some 255/40 wheel&tires which were wider but the wheels also had more offset so even though the wheels/tires were wider than the ones in this video, they barely touched the swing arm because the wheel sat lower on the changer's mounting plate.
If I ever get wheels that are both wider and have less offset, I may have to weld the piece of tube I cut off the duck-head mod and make my center post longer on the changer. There are other options to such as using a spacer ring and not have an upper clamp while removing the bead.
2nd. Low profile tire workability is just as much skill dependent. I know I could do a 245/35/21 (couldn't do a 265/35 because I cut mine short) and provided it's not a run flat. However, I also know I would not likely have been able to do that size at my first attempt and without a few extra tools I have purchased since like the drop center tool and nylon tire iron socks. Every set of tires I do I getter better at and it becomes easier and I become faster/more efficient. In short like any skill, the more you do/practice, the better you get.
3rd. Tire lube & cleanliness are critical. Don't skimp on either.
I wonder, do you think it could work for this size of tire 295/45R20?
Don't see why it wouldn't. Might have to raise the height of the duck mod adapter on the center post to clear the tire when removing the back side bead (specific duck head mod and wheel offset dependent of course).
Don’t understand why you can’t drop a pin with a head on it down through the lug bolt hole ?
That's because there is nothing preventing anyone from doing that; mod it however you wish.
bungie straps
You really like that word snot , don't ya.
You bet!
It's Snot too bad after all-
😅 😮 It’s too bad the manual tire changer kits are not useable as is, and have to be heavily modded. I have most tools including air tools, but not a welder or 3D printer.
Lucid will customize his duckbill kits if you contact him with your specific manual changer dimensions including center cones if you don't want to make your own cones or centering device out of any material you have on hand, including hardwood. I used what I have on hand for efficiency. No welder needed; beefing up the breaker arms is just a precaution if you have stubborn beads or some dumbass at the tire shop used bead sealant which essentially glues the beads to your rims.
You could just as easily bolt angle iron to the bead breaking foot arms. As with all DIY projects - use what you have on hand to make it work, necessity is the mother of invention.
That's half the fun, coming up with good ideas that work. Harbour freight low prices are another plus. Harbour freight needs to have a "tool modification day or weekend" where we could see these mods in person from fellow customers 🎉 surprised HF hasn't copied and selling the duck bill mod in store
Harbor Freight $54 Dollars and 99Cents you get the whole manual tire changer the whole kit and kabootle 👍🏻
For 99% of passenger car and light truck tires a manual machine is perfectly adequate.
I hope so... 🙂👍
You only briefly mentioned the dynamic balance and didn't explain its purpose. With the bubble balancer is that you will only get a static balance. You can actually achieve a really solid static balance. Static balance can be perfect to where you feel zero vibration, but a poor dynamic balance can cause the steel belt to shift
Seems like all of the tools pay for themselves even if all you do is change out to winter/summer tires.
Yep, it's going to be a different payback (if any) depending on one's specific situation. For me living 600km round trip from the city, this equipment paid for itself with even one patch repair. Of course the many others who do their own tire services are not doing it to save money, they are doing it for the convenience it offers, self reliance, sick of getting their wheels back scratched at the shops and another skill set to add to their DIY tool box. 🙂