Thank you for sharing, I used black duck for motorcycles tires and red duck for automotive tires…. They both works wonders !! I was negative on silver duck… it’s off my list! Lol great video!
That stainless one is what is basically used on many tire changers today. The problem is your rod prevents it from positioning correctly. You didn't have the lead flat positioned correctly. It won't dig into anything if it is positioned correctly. The stainless one is superior when positioned correctly.
The stainless and black duckbill work great when mounted to a motorized turn table (I use them on a daily). Watching the video, I was able to see how they struggle on a manual machine. Good demonstration, I’ve never used a manual unit before and was intrigued on how it operates.
@@ManthatsCool100 i use a motorized tire changer. The head stays stationary while the wheel assembly turns clockwise. So I guess it would equal to the same, as he is doing in the video
@Frank Lopes well frank what I mean is the way he does it counter clockwise the ducks head is pushing it down around the rim in essence its doing the same thing but one thing that I have noticed is that there is a pinch point doing it clockwise. So I'm wondering if that would be the better way to go, I'm thinking of putting the nylon head on my machine for this reason
Thanks for taking the time on this video, nice job. I have been rolling with the red bill and it has done the job for me well. I don't see any bill being able to eliminate the need to keep the opposite side bead in the drop center of the wheel.
Thanks for the comment John. Yeah, the red bill seems to do a nice job. I agree, seems to me getting the opposite side in the drop center is key no matter what duckbill is used!
Thanks a ton! You just saved me about $50 that I would have spent trying these out. Looks like my red one will do just fine. I was hoping one would work well without the drop center tool, but it seems that tool is worth its weight. I tried skimping and doing without it after I first built my machine, but I discovered that if I didn’t have one of my 7yr old daughters near by holding a tire iron, mounting them by myself was tough. I’ll just keep using my new drop center tool and call my machine done.
where did you get the attachment that is bolted to the side that your using to slide the poll in its two clamps bolted to the duckbill frame seen at 3:10
I made it. It is really quite easy to add and I think makes the tire changer a lot easier to use. I used two split collars: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063L0E9W I drilled and tapped a hole in them to mount them to the side of the tire changer. Then I just used a section of steel pipe inserted through the two collars.
@@JohnsDIY thanks for the link, yes i like that mod that way your not fumbling with the bar on the face of the rim. ok so you tapped the collars and bolted it to the duckbill attachment, its hard to see in the video are those allen headed bolts? im assuming the head of the bolt is on the duckbill attachment and not inside the collar so that there would be room to clamp the pipe inside the collar. what bolt size/thread did you use?
@@Madmax.3 Yep, you are right the head of the bolt is on the other side of the tire changer square tubing. The bolts are M6 x 1.0. I put together a document with some pictures and more details at: accordrepairsdiy.wordpress.com/category/miscellaneous/ Let me know if you have any other questions!
To demount a tire place the tire iron just behind the duckbill, exactly where you placed your polyurethane special tool, NOT on the tail of the duckbill. Also, the stainless steel duckbill should be mounted on a square tube to prevent any twist or turning.
I was wondering how well that circular pipe was kept from rotating to maintain alignment against the forces. A square section tube would do better in that regard, but wouldn't allow fine tuning of the alignment if it's welded in place, which is the advantage of the round tube.
Fantastic video with great lighting, camera angle, and voice descriptions. You gave me the inspiration to make my own duckbill arm for my HF tire changer, assembled using a Tractor Supply Jobsmart wire welder. Unlike the Lucid design, mine doesn't have needle bearings but it still works. The aluminum tire lever and bead clamp tool were the other critical pieces in your setup that made it much easier to mount/dismount tires than using just tire levers.
I originally used this video to justify getting the black duck head for my Ranger tire machine which came with a steel duck head but without any provision for plastic protectors. After a few years of mounting motorcycle and car tires, I found that the extra profile of the plastic head makes mounting and unmounting stiff or low profile tires much more difficult than it should be. I've gotten to the point of shopping for a new steel head that looks like the one you show in the video. The small plastic inserts will be more than enough to protect the rim, and on my tire machine the post is octagonal, so no chance of spinning out of alignment.
Thanks for the information! I'd love to hear what you think once you try it out. I can definitely see your point that it might be better especially for low profile tires as it seems like the overall cross-section is reduced with the metal head.
@@richardyelich4695 No, sorry I don't since I didn't build it. This tire changer was purchased from Lucid Autowerks (Ebay Store). I made a few minor modifications (adding the spin handles on the top and the bar holder on the side) but the unit itself is just the Lucid Autowerks product.
Great Video! I really like the way you setup your lever with the pipe and clamping collars. I would like to know more about what you used (sizes etc). I saw your earlier video with the worm gear clamps and this is obviously much better. In my case I need to be able to do ATV, Mower, Trailer & Auto tires so I am a little concerned that doing it the way you did may limit how much I can reduce the radius of the duck head and prevent me from doing smaller wheels & tires. What are your thoughts if any on that? What is the smallest diameter wheel you have done a tire change on with your setup?
Thanks for a good video and an interesting comparison. I began mounting my own tires in the '60's when they wanted an extra fee (very expensive fee) for doing alloy wheels and no guarantee and no liability if they damaged them. I've mounted numerous tires over that time, many manually with irons, and many with a manual changer, and I've never felt the need for such a device and doubt I would have the patience to use it.
Thanks for the nice comment! I have stuck with the red one because it continues to work great for me, even many tire changes later. (Not to say that the black one wouldn't probably have been fine too.) In fact, I just mounted and balanced a new set of Vredestein winter tires last night ahead of a possible snowstorm in our area tomorrow!
Just to dissapoint you but the "stainless unit from fleabay is not stainless but chomed steel. I know because mine is chipped and rusting after a cple years
Thanks, I have the Derek Weaver machine and I’m looking at options for my ATV wheels. Those tires are 5 times tighter to install than any automotive tire I’ve done. I’m hoping the plastic head works better with the smaller diameter rim.
I have the black one and I was wondering if another duckbill may work better. Your video answered my question. I believe I will stick with what I have for now. Thanks!!!
FYI for anyone making one of these improvements to their Horror Fright tire machine, if you're planning on removing wider, mud style tires, think of the width when cutting your center pivot tubing to length. I made mine 12" I believe and it's not high enough to remove a 12.5" wide tire.. Time to rebuild it. V2
Got it rebuilt and it works like a charm on 33x12.50-15" mud terrains. Now I just need to make a plastic tool like the one he has. I had pieces of an old plastic cutting board but they snapped after a couple uses, so I need to come up with a stronger plastic tool to hold the bead in place while I peel the tire off with my new adapter.
I learned that lesson the hard way too. I got by with it by just sticking a piece of tubing under it to act as a spacer, but when I have to do some wider tires I am just going to build a 2nd arm rather than bother with modifying the 1st one. I used 2x4 rectangular tubing for my first one, so you can imagine how much clearance I lost due to that.
Thanks. I almost bought the stainless steel duckbill tonight, but I opted for the black one instead. I just recently bought the Harbor Freight manual tire changer. My only complaint so far is the tire change pry bar. I don’t want to seem overly critical but it’s pretty much useless. So I opted to get the aftermarket duckbill kit. I’m hoping that it will make my tire changer work even better.
Interesting comparison video. Well done. It does seem that the stainless steel version would work quite well if it were indexed so that it could not rotate under pressure. Maybe square tubing instead of round for that one? I use the red one with good results. I do not have the Lucid setup, just a highly modified HF changer.
Thanks so much for making this video man. My double garage will be finished soon and I will get me a flux core wire welder and the tire changer (45 €) and the duckbill (25 € to 35 €) and get going.
Hi David, I put together a document with details about the clamp collars and bar holder at: accordrepairsdiy.wordpress.com/category/miscellaneous/ Let me know if you have any questions!
yes, please, I would love to know how to make or get made all the parts. I have the black duck bill but nothing to keep in place except pushing it towards the tire. Thought I screwed up not getting the red one cuz the red one seems to grab all the way around the rim lip. So I'm with Bart, if you could that would be amazing.
stainless steel duck bill wont work right on your tire changer you need a square shaft so it does not rotate under pressure . also the rotating force should be as close too the duck head as possible or it will twist and did into the rim.i bought a red duck bill just wait until you mount a touring tire . switching to black
i like your adapter where you attach your bar to get some real leverage while taking tire off and putting it on....too bad Lucid didn't put that into their design as a stock item
Yep, the base part of the tire changer is from Harbor Freight. It has held up quite well and I'd recommend it (especially for the price). The bead breaker on it is not great in my opinion. It is a little weak and tends to bend sideways under normal to heavy use.
Thank you for a great film. Where you can buy those Duckbill Holders? I purchsed 2 extra Duckbills (Black and Red), but they both don't fit my HF Tire Machine Attachment. The orifinal Duckbill on that attachment has centers of the holes at 68 mm apart, but in the Duckbills I got those distances are a bit different. I assume I need to find corresponding holders for Red and Black Bills. Thank you again.
@@JohnsDIY Thank you, it is good to know, but I have that thing what you call arm. I nrrf just the holder (the cylindtical tube w/a flange attached to it), they don't have it. But thank you.
I'm having problems with the black and the red one on motorcycle tires. The red stands too far away from the rim because the lower lip is too wide for motorcycle rims. The black one will not stay down when the tire iron goes over it.
as a kid i used a manual coats tire machine after taking off 4 tires on a car trailer then re mounting 4 more they were 15" of course but i was exhausted, but i recently bought a motorized one, and i will say i dont feel like i have the control with it its just kind of a either no pressure or full boar, im curious if the nylon one would be the better way to go
I'm so confused. I have been in entire business for over 37 years and used several different brands of Tire changers and never have I ran the machine reversed to do any amount or dismount please explain
Thanks for the comment Steve! You have definitely got me beat on experience. I've only ever used this manual, hobbyist tire changer and never a commercial tire changer. However, I'm not sure what you mean about running it reversed? Do you mean the spin direction? I believe I was using the same effective rotational direction as is used on all the commercial automated tire changers I have seen. What might be confusing is that normally (on automated machines) the wheel rotates and the duckhead is stationary whereas on manual machines like this, the wheel is stationary and the duckhead rotates. On all the commercial tire changers I have seen (links to a few videos below for example), the tire spins in the clockwise direction. For the manual tire changer, this is equivalent to spinning the duckhead in the COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction, as I was doing in this video. Rotating the wheel clockwise is equivalent to rotating the duckhead counterclockwise. Notice that in the videos below using commercial tire changers as well as in my video with the manual changer, the trailing edge of the tire exits over the "bill" part of the duckhead because the relative rotation is the same. But let me know if you think differently or if I misunderstood your comment or if you know of other tire changers which operate differently. Here are a few examples of commercial tire changers, showing the wheel rotating clockwise (when looking down at it), which corresponds to rotating the duckhead counterclockwise in the manual tire changer: ruclips.net/video/8hOZXIr1ujE/видео.html www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsOUtR_lT ruclips.net/video/BsOUtR_lTeE/видео.html
Hi Warren, good question. The tire iron ends up on top of the duckbill (between the duckbill and tire). I find that as I rotate the duckbill around with the tire iron in that position, often the duckbill lifts the tire up but doesn't cause the tire to start riding up over the rim edge. When that happens, I think there are two options. First, you can pull out the tire iron and insert it next to the duckbill (where I put my "special tool"). This forces the tire to start riding up over the edge of the rim. Or second, you can insert the special tool instead. I think either method works, but I prefer the polyethylene tool for two reasons: sometimes when you pull out the tire iron to move it, the tire slips back off the duckbill, and secondly the polyethylene tool won't mar up an aluminum rim (though probably if you are careful that's not a big deal). If you look at the following video starting at 6:02 you'll see an illustration of this issue and how the polyethylene tool solves it: ruclips.net/video/J2jNd3bgZuQ/видео.html
The polyethylene tire bar is just a homemade thing. I just cut a stick out of a sheet of HDPE and then shaped it a little with sand paper! The HDPE actually cuts and sand really easily (to my surprise).
@@jerrycaldwell7739 That's a good idea! That would probably be perfect and the cheapest route if you have on kicking around! For $15 you can get a 18" x 12" x .5" sheet of HDPE on amazon if your wife doesn't want you cutting up hers :)
@JohnNH Very nice job with the duckbill demonstration. I like the way that you keep things nice and mellow, as opposed to trying to become some kind of a RUclips video star. Would you mind telling me what you paid for the Lucid Autowerks tool. I'm also assuming that you're using a Harbor Freight Wheel Changer Base, so I was wondering if you've mounted it to a wooden cross base instead of hammer-drilling your concrete floors and adding concrete anchors of some kind. By the way, where did buy some of those nice general purpose tire tools. Have a good one and thank you.
Thanks for the comment! I can't remember what I paid for the Lucid tool, but I do remember that I looked after I had bought it and it had gone up in price dramatically. I think there was also a good discount on it when I got it (maybe he was just starting out?). It looks like there is at least one competitive product on Ebay now so maybe that will drive the price down some. Yes, it would be better to have the tire changer mounted down, but I don't have a permanent place to do that in my small garage. It works okay on the wooden base, but definitely takes a little practice (to make sure you are standing on it when turning the tire changer). The tire irons are just the $5.99 ones from Harbor Freight! : www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-general-purpose-tire-iron-93230.html
16:26 you are too far inside, the lip should be a bit farther away outward to the rim edge. I use the black plastic duckbill but found that the aluminium one is more sturdy and does the job better ones you figured out how to use it the way its designed.
Thanks for the comment! I don't do a huge number of tire changes, but the original nylon duckbill has held up just fine. I think it will last a LONG time, especially if kept well lubed.
Hi Ronald, not sure which modification pieces you are referring to, but here are some links that might help: Hunter red duckbill: www.amazon.com/Mount-Demount-Head-Hunter-Changers/dp/B00LC4MLPK Black duckbill: www.amazon.com/Plastic-Demount-Hunter-Accuturn-Changers/dp/B00LC9F7I8 Stainless Steel Duck Head: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797T938G/ Lucid Autowerks manual tire change upgrade kit: www.ebay.com/str/lucidautowerks Bead clamp tool: www.ebay.com/i/183884462011 www.amazon.com/Changer-Clamp-Center-Universal-Hunter/dp/B06ZYTFRGB
Ebay then : Car Tire Changer Mount/Demount Head Quick Tyre Remover Tool Dia 30mm 17.7* 8.5cm , I have this one and love it , it's all in the adjustment just like all the others .
I think you are referring to the polyethylene tool used to start the dismount? It is just a handmade tool. I took 1/2" thick piece of HDPE (you can get on Amazon) and just cut a narrow strip out of it and sanded a bit of a contour on the end. It turns out that HDPE cuts easily with a regular table saw and sands well with regular wood sandpaper. I think you could use a piece of wood or something instead of the HDPE. It just helps to have something to stick in the opening to get the tire to start coming off the rim there...
Good catch! I have fixed the link. Here is the corrected link: www.ebay.com/itm/Tire-Changer-Nylon-Mount-Demount-Duck-head-early-model-machines-Fits-Coats/190922259342
Thanks for the nice comment! The stick is homemade. I cut it out of a 1/2" thick sheet of HDPE (high density polyethylene) on a table saw, then just sanded the end to round it over a bit. To my surprise the HDPE sanded/tooled really nicely!
It is just a homemade thing. I took a piece of 1/2" thick HDPE high density polyethylene and just cut a 1" inch strip off on the table saw and then sanded a rounded profile on the end. To my surprise the HDPE cut and sanded really nicely! Some folks suggested sticking the tire iron there instead of on the duckbill, but I worry about scratching up the rims.... Probably any wood or plastic stick would work okay. Having the end tapered down helps insert it as the gap is pretty narrow... Also the HDPE is really tough - it'll bend but doesn't seem to ever break.
@@john_c Thank you! You made that look very easy, to where I'm going to procure one, and have a friend fabricate the modification. Here in Alaska, switching out snow tires every fall and spring, is a fact of life, and begin$ to add up. Likewise, one can rarely get into the tire shop, on a day of their own choosing, as doing so becomes a stampede, when the time comes. Thanks again for sharing.
Good question! I have experimented with quite a few. I started with the NoMar tire lube. It works very well. It is thick and very slippery. However it is also very messy. I have also tried the white EuroPaste. It is also pretty good. I would say not as slippery as the NoMar lube but is less messy. Primarily, now I use Ru-Glyde which is just a liquid (compared to the EuroPaste paste and NoMar gel). It is still pretty slick but not nearly as slippery as the other two I would say. However, it is super quick and easy to use and leaves zero mess to clean up. If you are just starting out with manual tire changes or don't have a duckbill attachment, you might start with the NoMar lube as it will make it easiest to mount the tire without any bead damage. The NoMar lube is also very handy if you have a tire which doesn't want to seat the bead (usually tires with larger sidewalls). The NoMar lube is thick and fills the gap between the tire and rim and makes it easier to inflate stubborn tires. However, the Ru-Glyde is definitely my go-to now primarily because of its convenience and since there is no need to clean after. It still provides enough lubrication to make mounting quite easy if you have a duckbill attachment. It does dry out pretty quickly (unlike the other two) so you do have to work pretty quickly or reapply if necessary.
we have automatic tire changers but I like this one, its more work might be cheaper and something good to have when the pedals go bad or when it sticks.. how much would something like this cost
If I consider my labor as free, I’ve got less than $200 in the machine I built. Might actually be close to $100, but I didn’t keep track. $40 for the tire machine from Harbor Freight. $25 for the steel I had to buy. Some stuff I had laying around. $15 for the duck bill. I think my drop center tool was $15-$20. Add in the cost of hardware and that’s the total. My machine doesn’t have the fancy thrust bearings that you get with the kit that you can buy. I might add them later, but frankly I don’t see the need for them. I’m sure it makes it feel a lot smoother, but 2” thrust bearings aren’t exactly cheap unless you buy them out of China.
I think they are around $10-$20 on ebay... Below is a link to one option I found in a quick search... Hunter red duckbill: www.amazon.com/Mount-Demount-Head-Hunter-Changers/dp/B00LC4MLPK Black duckbill: www.amazon.com/Plastic-Demount-Hunter-Accuturn-Changers/dp/B00LC9F7I8
Just to make sure it is clear though, the Harbor Freight tool doesn't come with the rotating duckbill accessory on the top. I purchased that separately from Lucid Autowerks on eBay (no affiliation).
Yes, the HarborFreight base part is really cheap, but the Lucid Autowerks attachment has gone up in price quite a bit. I think he had two versions, one that you had to assembly that was a little cheaper. But yes, I think it would be in that price range approximately. The Lucid attachment that I have is very well made, top quality. The HarborFreight base works just fine too, except that the bead breaker is not great. Usually the bead breaker starts to bend over time. I have seen some folks reinforce it which seems to help. You can also get the dedicated HarborFreight bead breaker which isn't too expensive and is a LOT more rugged (if you have the space for it).
They are usual available on ebay and amazon for about $10. If you search on bead clamp tool you should find it. Here are a few links to some: www.ebay.com/i/183884462011 www.amazon.com/Changer-Clamp-Center-Universal-Hunter/dp/B06ZYTFRGB
It is custom made, but it is really easy to make. You can buy a small sheet of HDPE at Amazon or elsewhere and then just cut it and sand it a bit to shape. It actually cuts and sands pretty easily.
I think I like the stainless duck head, the tone of your voice to me sounded like for what ever reason you was sure the steel head was not as good as the other ones.
Great video. Are these duckbills meant to contact the rim as you are removing the tire? Or ride just above it? I have one similar to the black one and it flexes a lot when removing the tire and contacts the rim. Is this normal?
It is not meant to contact the rim, it should be slightly off the rim. I prefer the metal duckbill because it is thinner and works better. The technique shown in this video was not how it should have been adjusted. The plastic ones are meant to be a consumable item for shops, just in case the operator makes a big mistake, the plastic duckbill will flex and or break, protecting the rim and the expensive machine from costly damage.
Good question! I just wimped out and purchased one from Lucid Autowerks. Unfortunately, as others have noticed they are pricey and have gone up in price quite a bit since I purchased one.... lucidautowerks.com/products/ultimate-manual-tire-changer
@@Empok_Nor The handle on the top is quite easy to add with just an aluminum bar and some revolving handles you can get online. The side mounted bar is pretty easy to add too, just using some split collars you can also buy online and a section of steel pipe you can get at Lowes/Home Depot. If you want to add these and need any details, let me know if I can help!
@@JohnsDIY wow it's up to $430 for that upgrade. I'm making my own tire changer that'll be hitch mounted and I'm going to try using a wheelchair motor to make it powered too. I'm expecting to be under $100 for my build.
I will say with the cast iron duck head, it is better, but it takes a bit more skill i have worked with them all liked that one the best once you get the hang of it
Thanks for the nice video, the only comment I would have is that a round tube does not belong in a square tube, that's why you will have problems with the stainless steel duckbill.
I assume you mean the tool to keep the tire in the drop center? If so, here is a link to one (not sure there is the exact one, but there are a bunch of these around on Ebay and Amazon):
It seems to me the problem with the chrome one was the design of your round pipe going into a square hole (tube) allowing the duckbill to twist because of the poor mating fit between the dissimilar round pipe and square tube. You can clearly see it move in the video. If your down pipe was a square sliding fit it would never twist to hit the rim. So I say the problem isn’t with the chrome duckbill it’s with your tool design
Really excellent comparison and camera work,, thank you, just what I needed to know. Love the mounted rotated lever, not seen that before.
Thank you for sharing, I used black duck for motorcycles tires and red duck for automotive tires…. They both works wonders !! I was negative on silver duck… it’s off my list! Lol great video!
Thanks for the comment! It seems like a lot of motorcyclists change their own tires. Thanks for the info on your experience!
That stainless one is what is basically used on many tire changers today. The problem is your rod prevents it from positioning correctly. You didn't have the lead flat positioned correctly. It won't dig into anything if it is positioned correctly. The stainless one is superior when positioned correctly.
The stainless and black duckbill work great when mounted to a motorized turn table (I use them on a daily). Watching the video, I was able to see how they struggle on a manual machine.
Good demonstration, I’ve never used a manual unit before and was intrigued on how it operates.
frank im curious if you mount or dismount the tire the way he showed here, i mount my tire clockwise he demostrated his counterclockwise, thoughts?
@@ManthatsCool100 i use a motorized tire changer. The head stays stationary while the wheel assembly turns clockwise. So I guess it would equal to the same, as he is doing in the video
@Frank Lopes well frank what I mean is the way he does it counter clockwise the ducks head is pushing it down around the rim in essence its doing the same thing but one thing that I have noticed is that there is a pinch point doing it clockwise. So I'm wondering if that would be the better way to go, I'm thinking of putting the nylon head on my machine for this reason
Worked on machones a few years, personally i loved the stainless the best. Will probably use it on my manual, for motorcycle tires
Thanks for taking the time on this video, nice job. I have been rolling with the red bill and it has done the job for me well. I don't see any bill being able to eliminate the need to keep the opposite side bead in the drop center of the wheel.
Thanks for the comment John. Yeah, the red bill seems to do a nice job. I agree, seems to me getting the opposite side in the drop center is key no matter what duckbill is used!
Thanks for a great demonstration. This will help in my own build.
Thanks a ton! You just saved me about $50 that I would have spent trying these out. Looks like my red one will do just fine. I was hoping one would work well without the drop center tool, but it seems that tool is worth its weight. I tried skimping and doing without it after I first built my machine, but I discovered that if I didn’t have one of my 7yr old daughters near by holding a tire iron, mounting them by myself was tough. I’ll just keep using my new drop center tool and call my machine done.
Offcut of wood will keep the bead down in the well
The metal duck bill on my Coates power tire remover goes from round to square that hold it in place
where did you get the attachment that is bolted to the side that your using to slide the poll in its two clamps bolted to the duckbill frame seen at 3:10
I made it. It is really quite easy to add and I think makes the tire changer a lot easier to use. I used two split collars:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063L0E9W
I drilled and tapped a hole in them to mount them to the side of the tire changer. Then I just used a section of steel pipe inserted through the two collars.
@@JohnsDIY thanks for the link, yes i like that mod that way your not fumbling with the bar on the face of the rim. ok so you tapped the collars and bolted it to the duckbill attachment, its hard to see in the video are those allen headed bolts? im assuming the head of the bolt is on the duckbill attachment and not inside the collar so that there would be room to clamp the pipe inside the collar. what bolt size/thread did you use?
@@Madmax.3 Yep, you are right the head of the bolt is on the other side of the tire changer square tubing. The bolts are M6 x 1.0. I put together a document with some pictures and more details at:
accordrepairsdiy.wordpress.com/category/miscellaneous/
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Awesome video. Where did you get the polyurethane tire spoon? I have chrome rims with low profile tires, so they're really stiff to remove
To demount a tire place the tire iron just behind the duckbill, exactly where you placed your polyurethane special tool, NOT on the tail of the duckbill. Also, the stainless steel duckbill should be mounted on a square tube to prevent any twist or turning.
I was wondering how well that circular pipe was kept from rotating to maintain alignment against the forces. A square section tube would do better in that regard, but wouldn't allow fine tuning of the alignment if it's welded in place, which is the advantage of the round tube.
Fantastic video with great lighting, camera angle, and voice descriptions. You gave me the inspiration to make my own duckbill arm for my HF tire changer, assembled using a Tractor Supply Jobsmart wire welder. Unlike the Lucid design, mine doesn't have needle bearings but it still works. The aluminum tire lever and bead clamp tool were the other critical pieces in your setup that made it much easier to mount/dismount tires than using just tire levers.
I originally used this video to justify getting the black duck head for my Ranger tire machine which came with a steel duck head but without any provision for plastic protectors. After a few years of mounting motorcycle and car tires, I found that the extra profile of the plastic head makes mounting and unmounting stiff or low profile tires much more difficult than it should be. I've gotten to the point of shopping for a new steel head that looks like the one you show in the video. The small plastic inserts will be more than enough to protect the rim, and on my tire machine the post is octagonal, so no chance of spinning out of alignment.
Thanks for the information! I'd love to hear what you think once you try it out. I can definitely see your point that it might be better especially for low profile tires as it seems like the overall cross-section is reduced with the metal head.
Do you have a diagram information on the unit you built
@@richardyelich4695 No, sorry I don't since I didn't build it. This tire changer was purchased from Lucid Autowerks (Ebay Store). I made a few minor modifications (adding the spin handles on the top and the bar holder on the side) but the unit itself is just the Lucid Autowerks product.
Great Video! I really like the way you setup your lever with the pipe and clamping collars. I would like to know more about what you used (sizes etc). I saw your earlier video with the worm gear clamps and this is obviously much better. In my case I need to be able to do ATV, Mower, Trailer & Auto tires so I am a little concerned that doing it the way you did may limit how much I can reduce the radius of the duck head and prevent me from doing smaller wheels & tires. What are your thoughts if any on that? What is the smallest diameter wheel you have done a tire change on with your setup?
Great video - answers the exact question I had - Now I know the answer - brilliant - vids like this make RUclips amazing.
Thanks for a good video and an interesting comparison. I began mounting my own tires in the '60's when they wanted an extra fee (very expensive fee) for doing alloy wheels and no guarantee and no liability if they damaged them. I've mounted numerous tires over that time, many manually with irons, and many with a manual changer, and I've never felt the need for such a device and doubt I would have the patience to use it.
Thanks pal that was really interesting Have you stuck with the red one or did you change over to the black one.
Thanks for the nice comment! I have stuck with the red one because it continues to work great for me, even many tire changes later. (Not to say that the black one wouldn't probably have been fine too.) In fact, I just mounted and balanced a new set of Vredestein winter tires last night ahead of a possible snowstorm in our area tomorrow!
Good afternoon. What is the length from tubercle to tubercle without beak, in a red duckbill?
Thanks for the comparison of the different duckbill styles. This video was very helpful and I hope you continue to make more videos like this!
Ditto
Just to dissapoint you but the "stainless unit from fleabay is not stainless but chomed steel. I know because mine is chipped and rusting after a cple years
Thanks for the information! I did not know that but I guess I'm not too surprised. Thanks!
Thanks, I have the Derek Weaver machine and I’m looking at options for my ATV wheels. Those tires are 5 times tighter to install than any automotive tire I’ve done. I’m hoping the plastic head works better with the smaller diameter rim.
I have the black one and I was wondering if another duckbill may work better. Your video answered my question. I believe I will stick with what I have for now. Thanks!!!
FYI for anyone making one of these improvements to their Horror Fright tire machine, if you're planning on removing wider, mud style tires, think of the width when cutting your center pivot tubing to length. I made mine 12" I believe and it's not high enough to remove a 12.5" wide tire.. Time to rebuild it. V2
Got it rebuilt and it works like a charm on 33x12.50-15" mud terrains. Now I just need to make a plastic tool like the one he has. I had pieces of an old plastic cutting board but they snapped after a couple uses, so I need to come up with a stronger plastic tool to hold the bead in place while I peel the tire off with my new adapter.
I learned that lesson the hard way too. I got by with it by just sticking a piece of tubing under it to act as a spacer, but when I have to do some wider tires I am just going to build a 2nd arm rather than bother with modifying the 1st one. I used 2x4 rectangular tubing for my first one, so you can imagine how much clearance I lost due to that.
Thanks. I almost bought the stainless steel duckbill tonight, but I opted for the black one instead. I just recently bought the Harbor Freight manual tire changer. My only complaint so far is the tire change pry bar. I don’t want to seem overly critical but it’s pretty much useless. So I opted to get the aftermarket duckbill kit. I’m hoping that it will make my tire changer work even better.
Awesome job man. Really appreciate you taking the time and money to do that. Cheers
Thanks for the nice comment!
Where did you get the top that holds the duck bill ? Did you make it or did you buy it somewhere?
Mount the chrome duck bill on a square pipe to stop the twisting
That's a good idea!
Interesting comparison video. Well done. It does seem that the stainless steel version would work quite well if it were indexed so that it could not rotate under pressure. Maybe square tubing instead of round for that one?
I use the red one with good results. I do not have the Lucid setup, just a highly modified HF changer.
That's a good point Corey. That might have put the stainless steel head at some disadvantage.
Great video , just ordered harbor freight one looks like I need some upgrades in the future
Nice! The duckbill add-on definitely helps a lot!
Thanks so much for making this video man. My double garage will be finished soon and I will get me a flux core wire welder and the tire changer (45 €) and the duckbill (25 € to 35 €) and get going.
Thanks i used black and think the red will work best fir auto tires...
Please share the details of your clamp collar used so I can modify mine too pleeeease
Hi David, I put together a document with details about the clamp collars and bar holder at:
accordrepairsdiy.wordpress.com/category/miscellaneous/
Let me know if you have any questions!
Hello, could you put in a detailed step-by-step description of how did you make this tire removal arm ??
yes, please, I would love to know how to make or get made all the parts. I have the black duck bill but nothing to keep in place except pushing it towards the tire. Thought I screwed up not getting the red one cuz the red one seems to grab all the way around the rim lip. So I'm with Bart, if you could that would be amazing.
stainless steel duck bill wont work right on your tire changer you need a square shaft so it does not rotate under pressure . also the rotating force should be as close too the duck head as possible or it will twist and did into the rim.i bought a red duck bill just wait until you mount a touring tire . switching to black
i like your adapter where you attach your bar to get some real leverage while taking tire off and putting it on....too bad Lucid didn't put that into their design as a stock item
Did you buy the lower half of the tire changer from harbor freight
Yep, the base part of the tire changer is from Harbor Freight. It has held up quite well and I'd recommend it (especially for the price). The bead breaker on it is not great in my opinion. It is a little weak and tends to bend sideways under normal to heavy use.
Thank you for a great film. Where you can buy those Duckbill Holders? I purchsed 2 extra Duckbills (Black and Red), but they both don't fit my HF Tire Machine Attachment. The orifinal Duckbill on that attachment has centers of the holes at 68 mm apart, but in the Duckbills I got those distances are a bit different. I assume I need to find corresponding holders for Red and Black Bills. Thank you again.
Thanks for the comment! The duckbill arm that I have came from Lucid Autowerks:
lucidautowerks.com/collections/ultimate-manual-tire-changer
@@JohnsDIY Thank you, it is good to know, but I have that thing what you call arm. I nrrf just the holder (the cylindtical tube w/a flange attached to it), they don't have it. But thank you.
I'm having problems with the black and the red one on motorcycle tires. The red stands too far away from the rim because the lower lip is too wide for motorcycle rims. The black one will not stay down when the tire iron goes over it.
as a kid i used a manual coats tire machine after taking off 4 tires on a car trailer then re mounting 4 more they were 15" of course but i was exhausted, but i recently bought a motorized one, and i will say i dont feel like i have the control with it its just kind of a either no pressure or full boar, im curious if the nylon one would be the better way to go
How will these work on my 16in truck tires, I have an old coats manual changer
Thank you for this video, the third one makes the job easier.
thanks for the video, in your opinion whats the best model?
I'm so confused. I have been in entire business for over 37 years and used several different brands of Tire changers and never have I ran the machine reversed to do any amount or dismount please explain
Thanks for the comment Steve! You have definitely got me beat on experience. I've only ever used this manual, hobbyist tire changer and never a commercial tire changer.
However, I'm not sure what you mean about running it reversed? Do you mean the spin direction? I believe I was using the same effective rotational direction as is used on all the commercial automated tire changers I have seen. What might be confusing is that normally (on automated machines) the wheel rotates and the duckhead is stationary whereas on manual machines like this, the wheel is stationary and the duckhead rotates. On all the commercial tire changers I have seen (links to a few videos below for example), the tire spins in the clockwise direction. For the manual tire changer, this is equivalent to spinning the duckhead in the COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction, as I was doing in this video. Rotating the wheel clockwise is equivalent to rotating the duckhead counterclockwise. Notice that in the videos below using commercial tire changers as well as in my video with the manual changer, the trailing edge of the tire exits over the "bill" part of the duckhead because the relative rotation is the same. But let me know if you think differently or if I misunderstood your comment or if you know of other tire changers which operate differently.
Here are a few examples of commercial tire changers, showing the wheel rotating clockwise (when looking down at it), which corresponds to rotating the duckhead counterclockwise in the manual tire changer:
ruclips.net/video/8hOZXIr1ujE/видео.html
www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsOUtR_lT
ruclips.net/video/BsOUtR_lTeE/видео.html
The red one is like the Rabaconda street bike changer for motorcycle tyres.
Great comparison and nice work!
Thanks for the nice comment!
Can you explain why it is necessary to use your "special tool" when the tire iron is already in position?
Hi Warren, good question. The tire iron ends up on top of the duckbill (between the duckbill and tire). I find that as I rotate the duckbill around with the tire iron in that position, often the duckbill lifts the tire up but doesn't cause the tire to start riding up over the rim edge. When that happens, I think there are two options. First, you can pull out the tire iron and insert it next to the duckbill (where I put my "special tool"). This forces the tire to start riding up over the edge of the rim. Or second, you can insert the special tool instead. I think either method works, but I prefer the polyethylene tool for two reasons: sometimes when you pull out the tire iron to move it, the tire slips back off the duckbill, and secondly the polyethylene tool won't mar up an aluminum rim (though probably if you are careful that's not a big deal).
If you look at the following video starting at 6:02 you'll see an illustration of this issue and how the polyethylene tool solves it:
ruclips.net/video/J2jNd3bgZuQ/видео.html
Could you add a link for the polyethylene tire bar? Thanks great info!!!
The polyethylene tire bar is just a homemade thing. I just cut a stick out of a sheet of HDPE and then shaped it a little with sand paper! The HDPE actually cuts and sand really easily (to my surprise).
@@JohnsDIY That's what I thought! Maybe from an old cutting board?
@@jerrycaldwell7739 That's a good idea! That would probably be perfect and the cheapest route if you have on kicking around! For $15 you can get a 18" x 12" x .5" sheet of HDPE on amazon if your wife doesn't want you cutting up hers :)
@JohnNH Very nice job with the duckbill demonstration. I like the way that you keep things nice and mellow, as opposed to trying to become some kind of a RUclips video star. Would you mind telling me what you paid for the Lucid Autowerks tool. I'm also assuming that you're using a Harbor Freight Wheel Changer Base, so I was wondering if you've mounted it to a wooden cross base instead of hammer-drilling your concrete floors and adding concrete anchors of some kind. By the way, where did buy some of those nice general purpose tire tools. Have a good one and thank you.
Thanks for the comment! I can't remember what I paid for the Lucid tool, but I do remember that I looked after I had bought it and it had gone up in price dramatically. I think there was also a good discount on it when I got it (maybe he was just starting out?). It looks like there is at least one competitive product on Ebay now so maybe that will drive the price down some.
Yes, it would be better to have the tire changer mounted down, but I don't have a permanent place to do that in my small garage. It works okay on the wooden base, but definitely takes a little practice (to make sure you are standing on it when turning the tire changer).
The tire irons are just the $5.99 ones from Harbor Freight! :
www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-general-purpose-tire-iron-93230.html
Did you make that part for the tire machine or did you buy it
Oh hey how do you like your us general tool chests? I’m strongly considering getting one myself.
They have been great! I really don't have any complaints about them at all. Definitely a good value for the money in my opinion!
@@JohnsDIY Thanks!
16:26 you are too far inside, the lip should be a bit farther away outward to the rim edge. I use the black plastic duckbill but found that the aluminium one is more sturdy and does the job better ones you figured out how to use it the way its designed.
Thanks for the reply, and appreciate the advice! I'll give that a try.
Its good video..
So which easier?? Yellow, red or black?
(i cant listen english language)
Thanks for your answer.. Iam Indonesian.. 😀
He said he feels the red does best.
Thankyou very much.. 😊
Will the nylon ones last very long? Some have complained they break after a few uses. Have you found that to be true or not?
Thanks for the comment! I don't do a huge number of tire changes, but the original nylon duckbill has held up just fine. I think it will last a LONG time, especially if kept well lubed.
Where can I got that adapter you have attached to h.f tool?
Very good video I really like how you took your time to explain the difference and what you were seeing
Thanks for the nice comment Tim!
Hope you can read and answer me, so where can I buy the manual machine ??
Hi Luis, I purchased mine from Lucid Autowerks:
lucidautowerks.com/collections/ultimate-manual-tire-changer
Thanks for the comparison test. This is helpful.
Where do I get the the modification pieces that you have? I"m having a problem finding them!
Hi Ronald, not sure which modification pieces you are referring to, but here are some links that might help:
Hunter red duckbill:
www.amazon.com/Mount-Demount-Head-Hunter-Changers/dp/B00LC4MLPK
Black duckbill:
www.amazon.com/Plastic-Demount-Hunter-Accuturn-Changers/dp/B00LC9F7I8
Stainless Steel Duck Head:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797T938G/
Lucid Autowerks manual tire change upgrade kit:
www.ebay.com/str/lucidautowerks
Bead clamp tool:
www.ebay.com/i/183884462011
www.amazon.com/Changer-Clamp-Center-Universal-Hunter/dp/B06ZYTFRGB
Hola don donde venden esas partes para sacar y meter la llanta
Ebay then : Car Tire Changer Mount/Demount Head Quick Tyre Remover Tool Dia 30mm 17.7* 8.5cm , I have this one and love it , it's all in the adjustment just like all the others .
Qualè la migliore da usare ?
What's your special dismount tool you speak of?
I think you are referring to the polyethylene tool used to start the dismount? It is just a handmade tool. I took 1/2" thick piece of HDPE (you can get on Amazon) and just cut a narrow strip out of it and sanded a bit of a contour on the end. It turns out that HDPE cuts easily with a regular table saw and sands well with regular wood sandpaper. I think you could use a piece of wood or something instead of the HDPE. It just helps to have something to stick in the opening to get the tire to start coming off the rim there...
the black duck bill material is nylon or iron ?
The black duck bill is some type of plastic (not sure necessarily if it is nylon or not but it is definitely plastic not iron).
Great video
Yep. That's the exact black one I'm looking at and zi keep looking back to your video for refetence.
Good catch! I have fixed the link. Here is the corrected link:
www.ebay.com/itm/Tire-Changer-Nylon-Mount-Demount-Duck-head-early-model-machines-Fits-Coats/190922259342
Where did you get the nylon/teflon stick??? Thanks for the great video on these heads :)
Thanks for the nice comment! The stick is homemade. I cut it out of a 1/2" thick sheet of HDPE (high density polyethylene) on a table saw, then just sanded the end to round it over a bit. To my surprise the HDPE sanded/tooled really nicely!
@@JohnsDIY Thank you for responding!!! :)
I'll be looking for similar in my area!!!!
What kind of polyethylene stick is that, that holds the starting point off the rim, for dismount?
It is just a homemade thing. I took a piece of 1/2" thick HDPE high density polyethylene and just cut a 1" inch strip off on the table saw and then sanded a rounded profile on the end. To my surprise the HDPE cut and sanded really nicely! Some folks suggested sticking the tire iron there instead of on the duckbill, but I worry about scratching up the rims.... Probably any wood or plastic stick would work okay. Having the end tapered down helps insert it as the gap is pretty narrow... Also the HDPE is really tough - it'll bend but doesn't seem to ever break.
@@john_c Thank you! You made that look very easy, to where I'm going to procure one, and have a friend fabricate the modification. Here in Alaska, switching out snow tires every fall and spring, is a fact of life, and begin$ to add up. Likewise, one can rarely get into the tire shop, on a day of their own choosing, as doing so becomes a stampede, when the time comes. Thanks again for sharing.
What kind of lube do you use?
Good question! I have experimented with quite a few. I started with the NoMar tire lube. It works very well. It is thick and very slippery. However it is also very messy. I have also tried the white EuroPaste. It is also pretty good. I would say not as slippery as the NoMar lube but is less messy. Primarily, now I use Ru-Glyde which is just a liquid (compared to the EuroPaste paste and NoMar gel). It is still pretty slick but not nearly as slippery as the other two I would say. However, it is super quick and easy to use and leaves zero mess to clean up.
If you are just starting out with manual tire changes or don't have a duckbill attachment, you might start with the NoMar lube as it will make it easiest to mount the tire without any bead damage. The NoMar lube is also very handy if you have a tire which doesn't want to seat the bead (usually tires with larger sidewalls). The NoMar lube is thick and fills the gap between the tire and rim and makes it easier to inflate stubborn tires.
However, the Ru-Glyde is definitely my go-to now primarily because of its convenience and since there is no need to clean after. It still provides enough lubrication to make mounting quite easy if you have a duckbill attachment. It does dry out pretty quickly (unlike the other two) so you do have to work pretty quickly or reapply if necessary.
we have automatic tire changers but I like this one, its more work might be cheaper and something good to have when the pedals go bad or when it sticks.. how much would something like this cost
If I consider my labor as free, I’ve got less than $200 in the machine I built. Might actually be close to $100, but I didn’t keep track. $40 for the tire machine from Harbor Freight. $25 for the steel I had to buy. Some stuff I had laying around. $15 for the duck bill. I think my drop center tool was $15-$20. Add in the cost of hardware and that’s the total. My machine doesn’t have the fancy thrust bearings that you get with the kit that you can buy. I might add them later, but frankly I don’t see the need for them. I’m sure it makes it feel a lot smoother, but 2” thrust bearings aren’t exactly cheap unless you buy them out of China.
For motorcycle which one you recommend, red, black or silver?
Sorry! I'm not sure! I don't have a motorcycle and haven't changed any motorcycle tires yet.
Where can I get the base unit?
Good job on the video, where can the red duckbill be purchased. I have the Lucid kit, I just want a spare.
Thanks for the comment Clint. I found the duckbills on Amazon and Ebay, for example:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LC4MLPK
හ්,,
Xxx
can you tel me the brand and type of the manual tire changer. and were i ca get it
www.ebay.com/str/lucidautowerks (No affiliation to me)
Where did you get the black duck head from, and how much was it?
I think they are around $10-$20 on ebay... Below is a link to one option I found in a quick search...
Hunter red duckbill:
www.amazon.com/Mount-Demount-Head-Hunter-Changers/dp/B00LC4MLPK
Black duckbill:
www.amazon.com/Plastic-Demount-Hunter-Accuturn-Changers/dp/B00LC9F7I8
Thanks for the review. Nice job.
Good video demonstration..But it depends on how you used it while doing tires...
Can the harbor freight tool handle a 20 inch rim?
Yes, a friend and I successfully changed his 265/50 R20 tires for his Durango using the setup shown in the video.
@@JohnsDIY awesome. Thanks for the info. I was hesitant in buying the tool.
Just to make sure it is clear though, the Harbor Freight tool doesn't come with the rotating duckbill accessory on the top. I purchased that separately from Lucid Autowerks on eBay (no affiliation).
@@JohnsDIY does $350 for the setup sound right? Wide range of choices out there. Not looking for cheap, looking for long lasting quality
Yes, the HarborFreight base part is really cheap, but the Lucid Autowerks attachment has gone up in price quite a bit. I think he had two versions, one that you had to assembly that was a little cheaper. But yes, I think it would be in that price range approximately. The Lucid attachment that I have is very well made, top quality. The HarborFreight base works just fine too, except that the bead breaker is not great. Usually the bead breaker starts to bend over time. I have seen some folks reinforce it which seems to help. You can also get the dedicated HarborFreight bead breaker which isn't too expensive and is a LOT more rugged (if you have the space for it).
Anyone done this with a 14 or 16 ply tire? 16” trailer tire . I have a lot of issues with just the manual original way
Any more info on that black plastic clamping tool?
They are usual available on ebay and amazon for about $10. If you search on bead clamp tool you should find it. Here are a few links to some:
www.ebay.com/i/183884462011
www.amazon.com/Changer-Clamp-Center-Universal-Hunter/dp/B06ZYTFRGB
@@john_c Gold! I just picked one up for around the equivalent to $8 including delivery. Thanks for the introduction and name of the tool.
Where can a person get the polyethylene tire tool?
It is custom made, but it is really easy to make. You can buy a small sheet of HDPE at Amazon or elsewhere and then just cut it and sand it a bit to shape. It actually cuts and sands pretty easily.
What wheel Chang stand is that?
I think I like the stainless duck head, the tone of your voice to me sounded like for what ever reason you was sure the steel head was not as good as the other ones.
Thank you for posting this very helpful video !
Thanks for the nice comment!!
Great video. Are these duckbills meant to contact the rim as you are removing the tire? Or ride just above it? I have one similar to the black one and it flexes a lot when removing the tire and contacts the rim. Is this normal?
It is not meant to contact the rim, it should be slightly off the rim.
I prefer the metal duckbill because it is thinner and works better. The technique shown in this video was not how it should have been adjusted. The plastic ones are meant to be a consumable item for shops, just in case the operator makes a big mistake, the plastic duckbill will flex and or break, protecting the rim and the expensive machine from costly damage.
On the stainless steel duckbill tool don't use the bead assist clamp...
Thanks for the advice! I'll give that a try.
how do I make myself one of those steel mounting assemblies to hold and rotate the duckbill ?
Good question! I just wimped out and purchased one from Lucid Autowerks. Unfortunately, as others have noticed they are pricey and have gone up in price quite a bit since I purchased one....
lucidautowerks.com/products/ultimate-manual-tire-changer
@@JohnsDIY I wish my changer had the handle on top to tighten the unit down with and that side mounted insert for your turning leaver...
@@Empok_Nor The handle on the top is quite easy to add with just an aluminum bar and some revolving handles you can get online. The side mounted bar is pretty easy to add too, just using some split collars you can also buy online and a section of steel pipe you can get at Lowes/Home Depot. If you want to add these and need any details, let me know if I can help!
@@JohnsDIY wow it's up to $430 for that upgrade. I'm making my own tire changer that'll be hitch mounted and I'm going to try using a wheelchair motor to make it powered too. I'm expecting to be under $100 for my build.
I'd like to see some1 do some truck tires like D or E rated 10ply do some stiff tires instead of soft car tires
I will say with the cast iron duck head, it is better, but it takes a bit more skill i have worked with them all liked that one the best once you get the hang of it
Thank you...man!! You video useful for me.
Thanks for the nice comment Jiranuwatt!
Thanks man this is a great comparison 👍
The black one is only good for installation. It is awful for removal. I have never used the stainless, but the red one is the best all around.
Thanks for the nice video, the only comment I would have is that a round tube does not belong in a square tube, that's why you will have problems with the stainless steel duckbill.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, perhaps with a square tube it would keep the duckbill from rotating. I'll have to try that if I get a chance.
very nice comparison video, thank you.
Which one to choose?
Well, if it looks like a duck...
You shouldn’t need that second spoon when you dismount if you remove the first one once you pull the tire over.
Great demonstration, well done
What is that special tool that you use ?
I assume you mean the tool to keep the tire in the drop center? If so, here is a link to one (not sure there is the exact one, but there are a bunch of these around on Ebay and Amazon):
JohnNH Don’t see the link
Ooops, sorry! Here is the link:
www.amazon.com/Farmunion-Changer-Center-Hunter-Universal/dp/B07CWPTZ3Q
Great knowledge I gained ,thank you
You just did what a Walmart tire changer would take three hours to do in 10 minutes
Hahaha, too funny!
I agree 👍
With zero power😂😂
😂This made my day.
How can order sir plz help me
Bene, allora qualè la migliore?
It seems to me the problem with the chrome one was the design of your round pipe going into a square hole (tube) allowing the duckbill to twist because of the poor mating fit between the dissimilar round pipe and square tube. You can clearly see it move in the video. If your down pipe was a square sliding fit it would never twist to hit the rim. So I say the problem isn’t with the chrome duckbill it’s with your tool design
I meant to say stainless duckbill😊
Just file some flats on the tube.