Mine never grow algae, but I clean it and change the water out once a month, otherwise it gets slimy in there. Probably a pinch of salt wouldn't hurt either.
30W Incandescent lightbulb is what I used last winter, I just put a lamp inside my closet, pointed it in a separate direction and it kept the space pretty warm. I later added microcontroller with temp probe and relay to keep the temp at steady 25C but I could go without that
It's actually getting difficult to find incandescent bulbs in NY. Stores only sell LEDs. The pet stores still have the warming lights for reptile cages though.
@@RenegadeMushroomsSame in Europe but some stores still sell them in small quantities, not for lighting but for "special applications", not sure what exactly are those but I'm happy they're not completely banned
Good info. I just started dabbling in mycology this week but I’ve been religiously watching any video related to the subject for an about a month and a half now. I’m fortunate enough to have my fish room warm enough to be my incubator.
Very informative channel, thanks bro. Im colonizing at like 68 to 70 at substrate level. I would like to 75 but will see i already see some mycelium after 2 days from spawn to bulk
It's a seasonal thing for me in the basement. Mostly in the spring when the ground is still cold, but it's warm enough outside that the furnace isn't running as much.
Hey love your videos! Supper interested in your substrate incubating procedure. I’m preparing to split blue oyster grain spawn into 4 fuel pellet bags using your method. Just wondering about the procedure you use to get to the fruiting stage. I’m very new about to start my first run.
I let them incubate at around 65 to 70 F until they are fully white plus a week, but that depends on your strain. Some will pin very aggressively so you have to watch them closely for emerging pins. At full white up plus one week, or whenever you see tiny pins, put them in the refrigerator at 40 F for 24 to 48 hours to cold shock. Cold loving oyster strains love a good cold shock. Then cut your slits and move them to fruiting with high humidity and air exchange. Check out these videos for demos and more info: ruclips.net/video/uyEZLDJ15UE/видео.htmlsi=_81d-sD5GdOv0DTV ruclips.net/video/dpYuUuHainM/видео.htmlsi=z8RWNl8bXMlJW02D
I received my grain spawn today and going to inoculate tomorrow, but I have 2 more questions haha. Should I pasteurize the night before and inoculate the next day? And should I incubate in an open room or should I put them in a container to block light ? Thanks for all your videos I love your style of doing things
@@kevinking9649 I prefer to pasteurize the same day, but you should allow 1.5 hours for pasteurization, then 2 to 3 hours for cooling. You can do it the night before and just store them in the fridge til the next day if you want. Once the bags are sealed properly you can store them in open air, I put mine on wire shelves. Just don't let the bags touch because of potential heat build up. You don't need total darkness, but you don't want them in really bright light or direct sunlight. Mine aren't covered at all, they are just in a darker corner of the room.
The heater I'm using is fully submersible, dial and everything. I've been using it fully submerged for years with no issues. I say in the video to "make sure you have a fully submersible aquarium heater"
This works well for me, it's a more even heat. As long as you change the water out and clean it once a month it shouldn't grow mold. You can also use seed mats, but I would put a towel between the mat and the jars to avoid overheating from direct contact.
Thank you Brother
Make sure to add That peroxide to the water. It will grow algae. I used to use that back in 2004.
Mine never grow algae, but I clean it and change the water out once a month, otherwise it gets slimy in there. Probably a pinch of salt wouldn't hurt either.
Vinegar works as well
@@HornyFungi you guys are cleaver. Polypropylene is chemically compatible with vinegar and is considered to be excellent for it
Awesome idea. Thank you for sharing
I use a couple of seedling heat mats propped up against the side of the monotub and regulated by a vivosun temperature controller
Always Brilliant Thanks RM🍄
Great video - very helpful!!! 👍
👊
Great information. My substitute is like 68 to 70 im seeing some mycelium growth all ready 2 days after spawn to bulk. So ill wait to add heat.
30W Incandescent lightbulb is what I used last winter, I just put a lamp inside my closet, pointed it in a separate direction and it kept the space pretty warm. I later added microcontroller with temp probe and relay to keep the temp at steady 25C but I could go without that
It's actually getting difficult to find incandescent bulbs in NY. Stores only sell LEDs. The pet stores still have the warming lights for reptile cages though.
@@RenegadeMushroomsSame in Europe but some stores still sell them in small quantities, not for lighting but for "special applications", not sure what exactly are those but I'm happy they're not completely banned
Good info. I just started dabbling in mycology this week but I’ve been religiously watching any video related to the subject for an about a month and a half now.
I’m fortunate enough to have my fish room warm enough to be my incubator.
Awesome, sounds like you have a good location.
Very informative channel, thanks bro. Im colonizing at like 68 to 70 at substrate level. I would like to 75 but will see i already see some mycelium after 2 days from spawn to bulk
68 to 70 should be fine 👍 Thanks for watching and commenting.
I use a version of one of these setups too. My grow space also stays a bit too chilly for the warmer loving species ❄️
It's a seasonal thing for me in the basement. Mostly in the spring when the ground is still cold, but it's warm enough outside that the furnace isn't running as much.
Is it enough to heat a room ?
@@asshoub That works fine too, this is just a lot cheaper and more energy-efficient if you just need to keep some jars or bags warm.
excellent
If you don't have air conditioning is there any way to cool a small space?
I've used a cooler with ice packs to fruit enoki before and it worked well. Small wine refrigerators are another option.
What temperature would you set it for oysters in general?
Depends on the species or strain, but 70 F should work for most.
Hey love your videos! Supper interested in your substrate incubating procedure. I’m preparing to split blue oyster grain spawn into 4 fuel pellet bags using your method. Just wondering about the procedure you use to get to the fruiting stage. I’m very new about to start my first run.
I let them incubate at around 65 to 70 F until they are fully white plus a week, but that depends on your strain. Some will pin very aggressively so you have to watch them closely for emerging pins. At full white up plus one week, or whenever you see tiny pins, put them in the refrigerator at 40 F for 24 to 48 hours to cold shock. Cold loving oyster strains love a good cold shock. Then cut your slits and move them to fruiting with high humidity and air exchange. Check out these videos for demos and more info:
ruclips.net/video/uyEZLDJ15UE/видео.htmlsi=_81d-sD5GdOv0DTV
ruclips.net/video/dpYuUuHainM/видео.htmlsi=z8RWNl8bXMlJW02D
Awesome thanks
I received my grain spawn today and going to inoculate tomorrow, but I have 2 more questions haha. Should I pasteurize the night before and inoculate the next day? And should I incubate in an open room or should I put them in a container to block light ? Thanks for all your videos I love your style of doing things
@@kevinking9649 I prefer to pasteurize the same day, but you should allow 1.5 hours for pasteurization, then 2 to 3 hours for cooling. You can do it the night before and just store them in the fridge til the next day if you want. Once the bags are sealed properly you can store them in open air, I put mine on wire shelves. Just don't let the bags touch because of potential heat build up. You don't need total darkness, but you don't want them in really bright light or direct sunlight. Mine aren't covered at all, they are just in a darker corner of the room.
Awesome I’m ready now haha thanks for the quick response. You’re on it man haha. Keep up the good work bud. Mush love
This Heater dont with the Red under Water!!Is a Sideheater!!
The heater I'm using is fully submersible, dial and everything. I've been using it fully submerged for years with no issues. I say in the video to "make sure you have a fully submersible aquarium heater"
What size aquarium heater for mono tubs? Have a recommendation Renegade?
Thanks!
i tought this was a mold culprit and i was going to use seed mats... please HALP
This works well for me, it's a more even heat. As long as you change the water out and clean it once a month it shouldn't grow mold. You can also use seed mats, but I would put a towel between the mat and the jars to avoid overheating from direct contact.
@@RenegadeMushrooms thank you so much you are awesome
@@RenegadeMushrooms right. im going to clean it with peroxide