GRAIN SPAWN 101, Start to Finish Tutorial on How to Make Mushroom Grain Spawn from Liquid Culture
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2024
- A start to finish tutorial on how to make mushroom grain spawn from liquid culture geared towards beginners. Learn how to turn a liquid culture syringe into pounds of grain spawn. From there you can inoculate any number of substrates with your colonized grain to grow your very own mushrooms. In this video, I cover every step of the grain spawn preparation process, explaining what I do, as well as why I do it. Hit me up in comments with any questions 🍄
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Your technique is absolutely perfect. Beautiful demonstration, thank you.
I appreciate the delicate care with which he handled that rocker.. I was worried.. but when it came time, he handled it like a pro.
Brotha mush love for the channel. Your content is great. Helping so much on my journey. These creatures are for real. Never felt more amazing
You're hooked, I can tell 😁 Thanks for watching and the kind words.
I had no idea. First time seeing anything like this. Can’t wait to see all the videos. This looks amazing. Thank you for introducing me to my new obsession.
The rabbit hole is deep 😁
Awesome video one of the best I’ve watched, appreciate your experience.
This is great information and not too complicated on the ingredients. After watching, I'm very enthusiastic and confident to give this a try. You are a motivating teacher. I need to watch the next stage and will look through your videos to find it. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you for watching and for the kind words. I'm always here if you have questions.
Your videos are very informative and easy to understand thanks for sharing 👍
Clearly a pro. Excellent technique here, kids. Thanks for sharing with the world.
Thank you, I appreciate your kind words.
I would like to complain about your videos being off the charts!! Your awesome sir! And it took me less than 10 min to leave this. lol!
Thank you very much, that means a lot to me. Thank you for watching 👍
Great guide, thank you 👍 some day soon I'll gather the kit I need to start growing 🙂
Super educational Thanks for making this video!
I’m brand new to mushroom growing. Inoculated my first grow bags July 31. Thank you for the information. I’m trying to learn as much as I can.
Good luck on your first grow!
When steam cooking food it's important to get the air out. When canning all that matters is the pressure as that's what causes the waters steam point to reach 125°c and maintain the desired temperature for sterilisation.
Nice video, very clear thanks.
You have awesome content. Thanks so much for putting this all together. I'm slowly gathering all of my supplies, and your videos really help build confidence going into this hobby. Thanks again.
I hope you' caught some good fish when you went you took a break for the grain to chill! Thank you for the education my friend, mush love from the FLA.,🌴🏖️🍄🔥🌅
@@jeffreyalbright3018 I did catch quite a few yellow perch that day 😁
Thanks you very much for your sharing greetings to you from Algeria 🇩🇿.
thanks a lot for the knowledge. you shared here. im starting to replicate my own spore prints from 2 years ago. so far i have been having 50/50 (only made 2 grain spawns) i hope to get better and better. will check all your channel searching for more info. have a good trip
Cool, I recently started working with the spore to agar process myself and I'm enjoying it. Thanks for watching 👍
I've got to get some of those grains. I never thought about Chicken Chow. TY
Thanks for that great video!
I love your content!! Thank you 🙏🏽
How long can fully colonized jars be stored?
Good info bro. Thanks.
This is hardest part thanks again
Nice video.Thank you.
Good video. Thanks
Man I love your videos. When I flip the tv on the first thing I check is to see if you have a new video lol. Anyway, would you ever consider doing a video on grain spawn to substrate? Using maybe a 6-20qt tub? I am a beginner. The PF Tek seems to be a little weak sauce in my opinion as far as growing potential. Learning how to grow in a tub would be ideal. Anyway, thanks again for the great content brother. You are a good dude
I don't do much sub tub stuff anymore other than with the mycelium flood method I use for Cordyceps. Maybe I could try to do some agaricus blazei on compost/manure at some point. I'll keep it in mind. Thanks for watching 😁
Cheers just started my channel out. getting some good info mush lovin
😊Love your videos brother😊
Thank you for sharing. Got my first attempt too wet. Slows down growth and very susceptible to rot. I'll do your process next attempt.
I'm digging how thorough you are. I'm just starting out and currently at my parents so I don't have room to set up a flow hood. I'll definitely check out more of you vids
You can do a lot without a flow hood. Focus on using liquid culture to make grain spawn and growing on pasteurized fuel pellets.
I got a 3d printed one off Etsy for 110$
Instead of laminar flow, use a HEPA air purifier with a dry cleaning bag on the output. Cut two arm holes and it’ll create a clean environment for basic tasks, like inoculating spawn jars
A cheap homemade still air box will get you growing quick, easy, and inexpensive... I have both, but usually just use my sab...
@RenegadeMushrooms eze bro about to try my first grow just trying to learn as much as possible first....do I need to use LC for spawning grain? Will spores still work the same? ❤
You had me at ice fishing and michigan, go blue!!
Outstanding
15psi allows water to boil at sterilization temperatures. As long as the pot is at 15 psi and the water is boiling, everything inside will eventually reach sterilization temp. Even if the inside was only full of air, as long as it's at the right temp, it will sterilize. Amount of steam is trivial as long as there's water inside boiling under 15 psi.
I love your channel
Thank you very muck.
Thank you so much
Just inoculated my first 2 bags im in Massachusetts i see the hat lol. Hoping it goes well thabks for the vid.
Hope your first grain spawn project goes well, thx for watching 👍
Great video, learning a lot from u, starting to inoculate my second rye grain, first 1 was a fail. I feel more confident now thanks for sharing 👍
I'm here if you have questions 👍
Perfect ❤
Thanks for another! Although I've always inoculated down the sides using the same circular motion that you use, I often wonder why not just straight down the center. Then when it's obviously colonized to the outside you're certain it's fully colonized as opposed to guessing or waiting several additional days to further be certain that it's colonized to the inside where you can't really see. Never seen that explained elsewhere, but that's the way everyone seems to do it.
Yeah I here ya. It's just habit for me with the LC swirlie. I guess my thought is to hit as many individual kernels with the LC as possible. But, I always give them a shake after injecting anyway, so I'm not sure it really matters.
I think the assumption is that if you squirt it down the side of the jar the liquid will fall further down between the glass and the grain and cover more area. Also you get to see if and when the mycelium take off and when its time to shake.
I put an agar wedge right in the center. They colonized fine, but I realized the main reason people say to do it near the glass is so that you can keep an eye on their progress. I think lol When it's smack dab in the center, you basically can't tell how well it's colonizing until it's almost done. so if growth slowed for some reason, you don't realize it, and can't potentially remedy (maybe you need better incubation temps, maybe you need more holes in your lids, etc). it probably matters more to newbies, able to see results faster and able to detect potential problems with their process.
come to think of it, i wonder if doing a line straight through the center, as if cutting the jar in half with the lc, might be the best of both worlds. at least when it comes to jars you aren't going to shake like brf.
Those Microppose hydrophobic adhesive filtration disks are awesome! Ive been using them for about 2yrs now on my PP5 grain jar lids. Being hydrophobic you dont have to ever worry about the filter disks being a vector for contamination. I ordered several sets, because I thought I would be replacing them, but theyve been through dozens of PC runs and are still perfect! I havent had to replace a single one, and not a single one has come off my lids either. I HIGHLY recommend them, I recommend them so much that I promote them in my videos for free.
I was unaware that the purge sequence on the PC run is unnecessary, I will definitely try skipping it and see if my tam rate increases.
Btw, the foil is completely unnecessary as well. I quit using foil to cover my lids last year, and my tam rate did not increase in the least.
Same with gypsum in my sub/grains/LC, quit using it and absolutely nothing changed, I cant for the life of me what its purpose is in this hobby. My tam rate is still virtually zero, and there has been no loss in weight on harvest. I dont see the benefit, so its no longer an additive in my materials.
I believe the point you made about light is s fallacy, an old wives tale. I run 2 6500k LEDs in my grow space that the jars are exposed to 12hrs a day, and I never have issues with colonization. I break n shake at 30% (approx 10 days), and achieve full colonization in approx 2.5 weeks. Not saying that it helps, but it definitely doesnt hurt, in my experience.
Unrelated to your video, I also learned from a lab tech that agar can be poured at much lower then previously recommended temp. If you are decent at pours, you can actually pour at 100f as opposed to the recommended 130f. Ive adopted this method and have been using it for about 2yrs. I normally pour around 130 plates per run, and the agar doesnt set up on me until after I finish the pour. Pouring at the lower temp reduces both bubbles and condensation on the plate lids.
I love the microppose lid gear as well, made my life so much easier. I still use the foil lid covers for my LC. I personally saw an up-tick in contamination without them which I determined was probably a result of a few of my well-used RTV injection ports being so swiss cheesed that they allowed contams in after awhile. For that reason I stuck with them. I use the silicone lid shields from Microppose.com on my grain jars now just to give my lid gear a bit of protection from direct steam, but I remove them after the PC. I also run 6500K LEDs. My limited testing has shown a bit faster growth (mostly at jump off) between dark and direct fruiting light. I have a video on that on my channel. The difference may be so insignificant that it doesn't matter much in the long run, but as I said, my testing has been very limited. Certainly total darkness is not necessary, that notion died long ago, but I still give them a bit of protection from direct fruiting light. I haven't graduated to pouring my own agar yet, but I get what you're saying. I just buy my plates pre-poured. For me it's really just a time issue at this point. I've also noted the same with the gypsum. Sometimes I add it, sometimes I don't, and haven't noticed a difference. I mostly just add it now because I'm trying to use up the giant bag I have.
@@RenegadeMushrooms haha! I did that as well, I had a huge bag of gypsum because it was cheaper to buy in bulk. I used it simply because Im such a cheapo I couldnt throw it away and not use it 🤣
You got those silicone lid covers? How do you like them? I have 5 dozen grain jars in rotation, and I saw what it would cost to buy enough for all those lids, and again, Im a cheapo so I didnt pull the trigger. They look really nice though.
As far as agar goes, if I had more expendable cash I would definitely sub out my pours. Kids are hella expensive though, and I can only afford to DIY
@@WhiteBeardHashtag1205 I here ya, I have my first one about to go to college. As far as time and money go, I don't have much of either 😂 but with agar plates I'm buying my lunch for now. I do like the silicone lid shields. After about 20 or so PC runs they seem like they will last forever. They pop on and off easy like a swim cap.
Nice video.
Thanks man. Just thanks. Awesome.
Alright my first attempt went bad, attempting number two after watching your vid 😂🤞🏻
Moisture balance and a good lid setup are the two keys. I'm sure this attempt will ho much better.
Update: we have mycelium! 😁🎉 Your lid video was super helpful too! Thanks!
Yea same here 1st attempt ended in a moldy mess. I used a pre made spawn bag I got from online not sure what went wrong. Round 2 is to follow your instructions step by step! Wish me luck and happy growing.
Love your videos. tape 3 quarters to the rocker to make it a little less annoying and still maintains correct psi
Cool trick, thx for watching. I've actually come to love the rocker swizzle of the presto, but I might be the only one 🤔
Definitely might be the only one 😆 I have been contemplating buying one of the induction plates for awhile to get it out of my kitchen
@@nic9779 Those 1300 watt waring pros I run get the job done. But not alot of juice to spare.
Might have to pull the trigger. I tried a cheap electric single burner I had awhile back and found out real quick that it was not powerful enough kept kicking off
Awesome video, you are one of my favorite RUclipsrs to watch for sure! Now to the question. When you add this grain spawn to your pasteurized fuel pellets, what ratio do you use?
I add about one pound of grain to every bag. Finished bags weigh about six pounds. Nice smallie 👍
@@RenegadeMushroomsthanks! I happen to live next to an awesome lake for smallies. It’s Lake St. Clair in Michigan, great for Walleye and Muskie too!
On one of your vids I observed you wrapping your plates but not with parafilm. I'm very interested in how you got the plastic wrap into the 1" size. I'd love to see a vid on the process you take making the small rolls for wrapping plates and jars. Keep on teaching I'm loving the learning process!
I just cut up a roll of saran wrap with a hacksaw. I must say though, I just bought some parafilm and it works much better.
Look for tree grafting parafilm it is much cheaper than the lab grade stuff and is usually an inch wide and much cheaper
Thank you for making this video! I appreciate the time you took to explain everything the way you did. Did you simmer or boil the water separately?
No, for this method I simply use hot tap water. No simmer or boil needed.
@@RenegadeMushrooms Thank you so much for answering me!
13:04 I love the passive roast 😂
Could you sense the sarcasm 😁
Yet again another flawless video. Thanks brother. If I wanted to make only one quart jar of grain spawn, how much water would I add to the mixture grain? I know you said they expand about 40%
I've never done the TEK where you just add a pre-measured amount of water to the grain and PC. I always just soak in hot water overnight. You could just fill the jar a little over half full with grain, then fill the jar with hot water and soak overnight. The key is to make sure you allow the grain to air dry before packing it into the jar for the PC run. Wet grain is no bueno.
I've never heard anyone say LC is prone to contam. MSS are way more prone to contam if not put to agar first. This video is great. Very easy tutorial to make some grain jars. Mush love!
is prone to contam bacause is a nutritious medium for bacteria, so everytime you use a liquid culture you run a risk, still is the best method to inoculate
Yeah it is more prone. I test my jars on agar before use
THANKS ALOT . tony
Same, I never vent for any sterilization and works fine.
thank you for this, you just showed why my grain inocculation did not go well at all. got yeast contam . grain was too wet and some split ....
Split grains greatly increase risk of contams, as do grains that are too wet. That's why I settled on this method, perfect moisture balance and no burst kernels. Hope it works out for you.
Thanks for watching 👍
Waiting that 10min helped me stop breaking the bottom of my LC jars. Maybe a coincidence,I don’t know.
Thanks for the video, can you use mixed corn for chickens ? It’s wheat and cut maize . Thanks
This was super helpful!! I’m currently planning on doing experiments that involve mushrooms and I needed to learn how to grow them quick. This was super easy to follow and it uses resources that almost anybody can get. Two questions I have though, when you refer to a “clean room” what exactly do you man? Like a room with not much dust or a space that’s simply organized? Second after the mycelium is solid or fully formed (if that’s the correct terminology) what’s next? Do you have a video following that that shows how to let the mushrooms fully grow? Sorry if those are dumb question I just want to ensure success on my mushrooms growth! Thank you for the wonderful video! 😊
Hi there. By "clean room" I just mean a room where your work surface has been wiped down with bleach cleaner or 70% isopropyl with low air flow and no house plants or other items that may spread mold spores (molds like trichoderma live naturally in soil). Wearing gloves and a face mask also help.
I try to show techniques that have high success rates just in a clean room, but ideally you'll want to look into building or buying a still air box or flowhood if you're going to get seriously into this craft. What you do next depends on the species of mushrooms, but I will link some more videos that will help you on your way. Thanks for watching 👊
ruclips.net/video/HD_k-dAyE5Y/видео.htmlsi=SDD65X4RiHLFoCBM
ruclips.net/video/uqRKDePYu2o/видео.htmlsi=8Xdq2zLzHoQ1WzJS
ruclips.net/video/uyEZLDJ15UE/видео.htmlsi=vYdD6YPZvzLPEI0T
Do you use the silicon gaskets with the pp5 lids for your grain spawn? I remember you do it for LC but was unsure for grain spawn. Trying to find out if they’re necessary for quart grain jar spawn pp5 lids
They're not necessary for me as long as I keep the jars in a clean storage tote for incubation, but they definitely seal much better with the gaskets. If you're working in a dirty air environment or incubating in open air, I would definitely use the gaskets.
I'm a newbie to growing mushrooms. I'm almost ready to do my first batch. I'm loving your videos. I'm learning a lot.
I have a question. What's the reason for moving the cultured spawn from the jars to the hardwood pellets? After a few weeks, can't you just harvest the mushrooms right from the jars?
BTW, I'm in western NY as well.
Hey there and welcome 👍 Some mushrooms will fruit straight from grain, but your yields will be very low. Grain spawn is really just intended to be a nutrient rich carrier for mycelium, not a fruiting substrate. By moving it to a sawdust or other larger substrate block, your yields will GREATLY increase. Also, most raw substrate material is way cheaper than grain per pound.
@@RenegadeMushrooms That makes sense! Thanks! BTW, I have accumulated a ton of questions as I've gotten into this. I'll try to ask them one at a time and over the course of time, just so I don't overwhelm you (not that you can't handle the questions). Keep up the great job teaching all of us.
@Philip Augustine Thanks Philip, I'll check it out.
A few questions for you sir. How much LC ml do you put in each jar roughly? was the total spawn time 2-3 weeks? How long can your colonized jars last if you want to put it off for a bit, can you fridge them into dormancy? or is it best to colonize the bulk substrate blocks and store those a bit like store bought mushroom kits. Im trying to get a feel for the timeline for the various steps and shelf life on those steps. Thanks! appreciate the content.
3 - 5 ccs for a quart jar of grain typically. You are better off fridging your grain jars than substrate bags because most species are less likely to fruit on straight grain, and jars take up less space. It's still better to use them as soon as possible, but you can hold them off for a bit in the refrigerator. Just don't do that with a tropical species like pink oyster or almond agaricus because fridge temps will kill them. Colonization times for grain and sawdust are typically 2 to 3 weeks with most species.
Hi, I love your videos but I cannot find any information on the internet how to introduce the grain spawn to the growing bags and how much grain spawn you need per kg to start the mushroom growing. It would be nice if you can let me know or show a video how to do this.
Thanks very much and keep up the good work.
Check out my oyster mushroom growing video, it shows the entire process in detail. Here's a link:
ruclips.net/video/uyEZLDJ15UE/видео.html
I only use pasteurization, I don't sterilize, so I use 1 quart or about 1 lb. of grain spawn per 5 lb. bag of sawdust. My finished fruiting blocks are a little over 6 lbs.
Thanks for the great video! I am very motivated and love your method. What was the growth time to full colonization? You gently shook the jars after 7 days, but did not mention the period until colonization was complete. I appreciate this varies, bt a rough guide will suffice. TIA
Generally two to four weeks for full colonization with most species.
Thanks @@RenegadeMushrooms
I prepared my first batch of LC from spores and ready for the next step - testing for contamination on agar and then on to inoculating grain. Can you please advise on the types of syringes and needles you recommend including needle gauge size? Disposable or reusable? Luer locks? Thanks so much!
I personally prefer 20cc syringes and 14 or 16 gauge needles, both Luer Loc. You generally get what you pay for, B-D brand stuff is nice. I use disposable.
Thanks for this. I have done some grain spawn by putting it in an Instant Pot with excess water for 5 minutes, and immediately releasing the pressure, then air drying it like you show. It seems to give the right amount of moisture without bursting any grain. I hope I didn't miss this in the video, but I was wondering if you see any benefit from adding gypsum or a small amount of sawdust to the grain spawn. Some folks seem to say that a small amount of a future substrate will help the speed of growth in the end. And gypsum for the sulfur. I guess I've done it without gypsum before, too, but I don't think I have done it enough to notice a difference. Others say add 1/2 teaspoon of lime per jar to keep the pH from dropping too low. Any thoughts on that stuff? Thanks again. Very straightforward videos with subtleties on the art explained well.
The only benefit I've seen from adding sawdust to grain is that the sawdust absorbs excess moisture if your grain is too wet. If you're going to add anything, I prefer wheat bran rather than sawdust because the wheat bran will add more nitrogen and increase the yield of your finished blocks while still helping to absorb excess moisture. I show that in this video:
ruclips.net/video/S38v-5Bi65w/видео.html
Other than wheat bran, I generally don't add anything to my grain. Thank you for watching, and for the kind words 👍
Nice video! What if I don't have a flow hood? Will this be an issue? Are there alternatives or safe practice I can use without one? Thank you
Most people start with a still air box until they can afford to buy or build a flowhood. Check out the "nocbox" from North Spore.
Great video while I’m researching proper technique. I’m all for the soaking and pressure cooking, but curious why you don’t boil. Is that dependent on grain type or you do you just skip boiling altogether?
I prefer to skip boiling all together because no matter how careful you are, boiling always leads to increased numbers of burst grain kernels. Burst kernels increase contamination risk so I go with methods that minimize them as much as possible. Starting with hot water, and just soaking and monitoring has always worked much better for me. You can adjust your starting water temp and doak time to suit your needs and grain type. Here's a couple more of my videos that might help you out.
ruclips.net/video/sPxdyCY0Ys0/видео.htmlsi=-gn5DItm5lvSkRxB
ruclips.net/video/AKwpj4Gc700/видео.htmlsi=S0h4EpzFzPOUBgus
Do you prefer working with the flow hood to the side? I'm about to build a hood but not looking forward to facing directly into the wind, which seems to be the usual orientation. I'm going to try your suggestion of wheat -- many of my popcorn spawn jars seem to start out ok but then stall and gradually get ugly. I don't see mold until they've gone seriously downhill so I wonder if contamination can develop so gradually?
The side orientation is just the way I've always done it so I'm used to it. Some people prefer it blowing right at you though. Both work, just personal preference I think. Anything wider than 2' and the side orientation wouldn't really work. As far as the spawn goes, yes, it's always a race between the mycelium and the contamination. Even when we PC bacteria survive, just in a weakened state. Popcorn is pretty prone to contamination in my experience. It is one of my least favorite grains. I think you will love wheat.
The reason for having it facing head-on is that even when ‘clean’, the human body is a ready source of contaminants, mostly from commensal organisms.
Side-on can be fine, but you’ll just have to be careful that your hand doesn’t come between the flow and the sterile medium.
Of course if you don’t want it bowing towards your face you could configure it pointing towards you and down at about 45 degrees. With that configuration you’ll probably also want a screen.
As suggested in the vid, the needle is the only thing which is making contact with the media so you just have to flame it and I always also squirt some 70% IPA onto the injection ports a minute before inoculation.
I also like LC but am no expert so have some contam issues, but that’s largely from experimenting with recipes. A lovely clear dextrose makes it easy to see contam and it’s a beautiful thing indeed when you have a nice jar with great clouds of mycelium but no turbidity (as that’s the best indicator of contam).
Thank you again for all you are sharing.
I'm going to ask about Rye.
Same hydration as wheat?
Handle it the same as wheat?
Basically yes, I haven't done a lot of work with Rye personally but I think it's just a bit slower on the hydration than wheat. The hot water overnight soak still seems to get it nicely hydrated though.
I have a question I seen in the background on the left side at 12.20 you have glass jugs and I recognized the plastic thing on top that looks like a bubbler and was just wondering what you used those for? I had a few of those that I found and couldn't figure it out so I put a little water in the chambers and used it as a bubbler for a gravity bong worked well but heat and plastic don't get along lol
They are "air locks" used for making homemade wine. I make 6 gallon batches of wine now and then 😁 They prevent air from entering the jugs, but allow CO2 from the yeast to escape.
Hi, great tutorial, thank you. What temperature do you keep your jars at while running the mycelium.
65 to 70F for me works good for most varieties. If you're growing tropical strains that like it a bit warmer I use one of these:
ruclips.net/video/wV69bbHtSFg/видео.htmlsi=I0aw2O2nrvcvmHtn
Great video, so much information. Unless I missed it, what temperature range is good for growing out the mycelium in grain spawn? I have a cold house, but I can use a heated seedling mat under a tub if necessary. Thank you.
65 F is fine if you have a room at that temperature. You have to be careful with heat mats, a little too cold is better than too warm.
@@RenegadeMushrooms Thanks! My basement is in the low to mid 50's this time of year. I'll use the heat mat and set the thermostat to the high 60's.
Awesome video. I didn't catch you say how much LC you are putting inside of the jar or that doesn't matter?
For quart jars I usually to 4 ccs or so. You usually get around 12 ccs in a store-bought LC syringe so I like to get three jars done with them. It depends on species though. You would want to go heavier with slow growing species, especially if you're making your own LC.
I find I get far less contamination in jars than bags. I work in front of a flow hood too..
Kinda noticed this also, maybe it’s because you eliminate any issues that can come with the lid/self healing injection port
that’s mainly due to the fact that bags are full of seams and areas where contam can get in vs jars where there are only one or two possible areas where contam can be introduced
Merci je le vidéos en Français svp
Maybe you should try sterilizing for longer times with bags, I have heard many recommend it and it makes since that they would require it
It takes longer to get to the proper temperature due to the bulk, takes longer for the middle to get hot enough.
🇰🇪 Very insightful.✅
That’s very interesting, thank you. I used to soak then put my grain in boiling hot water and just let it sit heat turned off for about 30min. This way the grain gets extra plump (the light cooking makes it suck more water than just the initial soaking. It used to work just fine, yet since a few weeks I’m running into sour rot contamination problem which had me ditch so many grain jars. I am then switching to your technique to put a dryer grain into my grain spawn jars. Let’s hope I get rid of this awful bacteria 🤞
Hopefully it helps, losing jars is a real bummer.
Awesome video once again. I don't have a Blue seal store here any more. I tried looking up Blue Seal wheat grain, I didn't get a hit with any just saying Wheat grain??? Is there a specific name on that bag you where showing? Thanks again
It's used for chicken feed. If you have a country store like tractor supply around they should have wheat or oat grain in big bags. Either will work, although I prefer wheat. Red or white wheat both work great, just check out the poultry/livestock feed department.
Thanks for all your informative videos! I sterilized some rye grain January 30 (I got a wee bit excited and got ahead of myself). Will the grain still be hydrated enough to inoculate? Also do you have to add air vents in the tote you place the inoculated jars in?
That's a long time to leave grain, you might want to resterilize it or just make a new batch. I prefer vents in my incubation totes. I just stuff the holes with balls of polyfil.
@@RenegadeMushrooms Thanks for getting back to me. Yeah I figured it was too long. It wasn't my intention to wait that long, but you know how life sometimes gets in the way of the things that you like to do LOL
@@elizabethhappiestwhengarde2938 Indeed 😁
great video!!! LOL @ "wetter is better" comment
Your lids have self healing injection ports but is there nothing to allow for gas exchange?
9:45
Microppose injection port and filter disc in every lid.
Love the videos and advice. However went looking for the Blue Star Wheat Chicken feed. The only one they have in the Blue/Red bag was made of Cracked Corn, Oats, Wheat and called Scartch Chicken Feed. What do I look for. Also could find a wheat only their web site. What I look for or what's it called ? Thanks in advance for your help.
Its Blue Seal, not Blue Star, just want to make sure you're searching the right company. The other thing I've come to realize is that grain availability is very regional. That being said, you should be able to find wheat. Do you have any agricultural feed stores near you? They would know. You just have to be careful buying wheat that is intended to be used as seed. Seed grains are commonly treated with chemicals to aid in germination. You don't want the chemicals obviously.
If you don't use all your lc do you have to take off the needle and put the luer lock tips back on or can you just leave needle and cap it
Just leave the needle cap on and store it in a ziplock bag in the fridge.
on 9-12-22 i used my 6 qrt.pressure cooker to process 1 bag of rye grain , i just wraped the top of the bag around the grain and covered up the filter patch ; when i took it out of the p.c. the bag was loose and had a lot of condensation inside . can i put the grain into a towel to dry if again and the refill the bag and process it with the filter patch uncovered this time. ? thanks .please a.s.a.p.
That's why I don't like bags for spawn in small scale pressure cookers, more often than not it turns out badly. I always use jars. You can reuse the grain as long as you don't have a ton of burst kernels. Just get the moisture content right and repackage it. If there are a lot of burst kernels, you need to start over. Burst kernels lead to contams big time.
where can i see your video of the different canning jar lid setups for putting in PC. Thanks.
This video shows my favorites, these are the one's I use:
ruclips.net/video/Wm4znts9f1g/видео.html
What temperature do you shoot for when incubating the jars?
60 - 70 F
Random question, is the term field capacity refer to grains or only substrates of wood, manure, straw ect.? Just for my own information. Thx
That's a good question. Off the top of my head, I have to say I've mostly heard it used in regard to substrate hydration vs grain in mycology circles. Always referring to hydrating a substrate to it's optimum moisture content.
If you used spores instead of LC would you squirt it in the jar differently?
No, maybe just add a little more because of the germination lag. Honestly it's a waste to squirter spores on to grain though. Make your spores into LC, expand it, then LC to grain. Pennies on the dollar.
I never leave the rocker weight off. I leave it on the whole time and everything continues to work fine.
After transferring grain spawn to my sterile strata do I have to have an air filter on meh poly bag?
The bag needs to breathe so yes you either need an air filter or breather holes in the bag. As a general rule, for sterilization with supplemented substrates, you need a filter patch bag. For pasteurized grows with unsupplemented substrate, you can just poke holes in any old bag or container, or use a filter patch bag if you wish.
Assuming you refrigerate your spawn jars, how long can you wait between PC and inoculation?
It's best to use them asap, but I would say two weeks tops.
What were the carboys and airlocks for? Just noticed it in the background and was curious.
I make homemade wine and hard cider. That's a six gallon batch of blood orange sangria.
@@RenegadeMushrooms I like you. Lol. I'm growing pink lemonade blueberries and hoping to have enough this year to make a melomel with it. Appreciate the reply.
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1 question that I have is What I have going on is freshly planned Hardwood Sawdust.
Do I have to prepare the sawdust Before I Add from the jars.
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I only use hardwood fuel pellets, but I think you want to let fresh sawdust age for a couple of weeks before using for substrate. If you have Facebook, ask at the "Mushroom Growers for Beginners and Experts" FB group.
Did you loosen the jars before you put pc or you just make sure they are tight?
You want them tight.
Would you do anything differently if you were using cracked corn instead?
I wouldn't recommend cracked corn, it's pretty prone to contamination. If you're looking for cheaper options, bird seed works much better. Especially if you find it without the sunflower seed in it. Wheat and oats are cheap and you can find them at most farm and feed stores and they work great. Just my 2 cents.
"Liquid Culture is really prone to contamination uf you suck at it". - Renegade Mushrooms I lost my shit hahha
Hey got a question I used a LC on rye and it looks like some of the rye cracked open and I see white. Is this normal?
It's really tough to tell without seeing a picture. White is good though generally, any other color, not so much. Just keep an eye on it and keep me posted. Post a new comment though or I probably won't see it.
I'm thinking on getting into growing mushrooms now having said that I'm into making wine,beer and "other" form of alcohol this also needs to be sanitized and I use "Star sand" do you think I can use this as a sanitizer for this new endeavor?🤔
I actually was just reading a discussion on this very topic on FB and I also did some research on Shroomery. From what I've read, Starsan is far less effective than 70% isopropyl and not recommended for mycology. Some people have tried it on not been happy with the results.
@@RenegadeMushrooms cool thanks for the quick response.😉
Do we loosen the jars while in the pressure cooker and c9ver with foil?
Don't loosen the lids, but cover them with foil lids or I also like the silicone lid shields from Microppose.com.
Can you store fully colonized grain jar spawn in fridge, with the intention to be taken out later to inoculate substrate?
Yes, unless it's one of the tropical strains that can't tolerate fridge temps like pink oyster.
What temperature do you keep the grain spawn ?
I prefer 65 to 70 F
Is there a reason you don't use the metal lids with inoculation ports, etc.?
Metal lids work fine, but they rust eventually and are tougher to drill holes in. I still use metal for liquid culture, but plastic for everything else.
Correct me if I'm wrong but those totes have a hole on each side , near the handle area that could be closed with microspore tape.
Yeah I have several generations of them with different hole patterns. They are all 105 quart sterilite totes with 1.5 to 2 inch holes. You can use micropore tape to cover them, but I just use balls of polyfil. The goal is to allow a bit of airflow but still control it to reduce contams.