Bought the 2500 model, So hot at night must adjust output accordingly. Still investigating. Not a complaint. I have a new Fischer Future Heat bit more complicated to set, so I doing a swap around of locations
So, here’s my query, which to date, nobody has attempted to answer. My room is approx 25000 cubic feet and is reasonably well insulated. It is equipped with storage heating which I don’t use as it is archaic and I’m not a weather forecaster. So, I employ a 3kw electric radiator. I normally have the thermostat set to 21.5 Centigrade. If I set the power control to 3kw, the radiator will quickly heat the room to the desired temperature. Then the thermostat will switch on and off, maintaining that temperature. If I adjust that power selector to 1kw, the radiator will still heat the room to the same desired temperature, but, takes longer. Then the thermostat will switch on and off to maintain that temperature, but spends more time switched on. I can also set that power selector to 2kw. This achieves the same goal, but, obviously, somewhere between the other 2 settings. Which power setting would be the most economic?
@ thanks, those were my conclusions. But what happens when the room’s thermal loss is greater than the heat supplied by the radiator. The radiator would be constantly on, trying to maintain the room temperature. Would that not be less efficient than a more powerful heater whose thermostat regulates the temperature. Which guides me to the thinking that the highest setting would be the most efficient.
It doesn't matter to me how they work. Tell me if radiators with more fins creates more heat with more surface space, and explain if a 1500w is actually 1500w. What if I don't care about efficiency and more about actual heat output.
Radiators with more fins do not generate more heat. But the greater surface area created by those fins will ensure that any heat generated by that radiator is more efficiently dispersed. If your radiator is rated at 1500w and is manufactured by a reputable brand, then yes, it will draw 1500w. Electric heating is 100% efficient. 100% of the electricity drawn by your radiator will be converted to heat! Hope this helps?
@howardskeivys4184 thank you for the clarification. I had watched a video with a guy taking a volt meter to different brands and some that said they were 1500w didn't really draw 1500w. That's where I got confused. Thank you again for the clarification.
@@johnsasquatch8619 I can think of no reasons a manufacturer would claim an inflated current rating, other to falsely boost the products heating capability. Glad I could help. 👍
IQ ceramic are not well built , expect failures and often. Also shop around exactly the same heater under another name and half the price available. The joke is you can buy a 2000w oil radiator from Argos for £90 v £700 for one of these. Both just as efficient or non efficient as each other.
Bought the 2500 model, So hot at night must adjust output accordingly. Still investigating. Not a complaint.
I have a new Fischer Future Heat bit more complicated to set, so I doing a swap around of locations
So, here’s my query, which to date, nobody has attempted to answer. My room is approx 25000 cubic feet and is reasonably well insulated. It is equipped with storage heating which I don’t use as it is archaic and I’m not a weather forecaster. So, I employ a 3kw electric radiator. I normally have the thermostat set to 21.5 Centigrade. If I set the power control to 3kw, the radiator will quickly heat the room to the desired temperature. Then the thermostat will switch on and off, maintaining that temperature. If I adjust that power selector to 1kw, the radiator will still heat the room to the same desired temperature, but, takes longer. Then the thermostat will switch on and off to maintain that temperature, but spends more time switched on. I can also set that power selector to 2kw. This achieves the same goal, but, obviously, somewhere between the other 2 settings. Which power setting would be the most economic?
@ thanks, those were my conclusions. But what happens when the room’s thermal loss is greater than the heat supplied by the radiator. The radiator would be constantly on, trying to maintain the room temperature. Would that not be less efficient than a more powerful heater whose thermostat regulates the temperature. Which guides me to the thinking that the highest setting would be the most efficient.
@@visiblekoment 👍
It doesn't matter to me how they work. Tell me if radiators with more fins creates more heat with more surface space, and explain if a 1500w is actually 1500w. What if I don't care about efficiency and more about actual heat output.
Radiators with more fins do not generate more heat. But the greater surface area created by those fins will ensure that any heat generated by that radiator is more efficiently dispersed. If your radiator is rated at 1500w and is manufactured by a reputable brand, then yes, it will draw 1500w. Electric heating is 100% efficient. 100% of the electricity drawn by your radiator will be converted to heat! Hope this helps?
@howardskeivys4184 thank you for the clarification. I had watched a video with a guy taking a volt meter to different brands and some that said they were 1500w didn't really draw 1500w. That's where I got confused. Thank you again for the clarification.
@@johnsasquatch8619 I can think of no reasons a manufacturer would claim an inflated current rating, other to falsely boost the products heating capability. Glad I could help. 👍
Avoid Best Electric Slimline Curve aluminium radiators. Absolutely appalling radiators costs a fortune in electric they are not energy efficient
IQ ceramic are not well built , expect failures and often. Also shop around exactly the same heater under another name and half the price available. The joke is you can buy a 2000w oil radiator from Argos for £90 v £700 for one of these. Both just as efficient or non efficient as each other.