Earl, the magic word is wind SHEAR and it can increase or decrease even in the same locality if your exposed or on higher ground. We sometimes have to build internal buttresses on exposed brick homes if there are to be large open internal areas. The information about the beefing up is priceless, I had not realised, (so I am not so clever as I might think) I will be talking to my supplier in the UK next week about upgrading the gauge of the panels on my new Q to allow shed dormas . Well done Earl.
In MA we had a very heavy snow several years ago and 135 roofs collapsed. Surprisingly, several were quonset buildings. Moral of story, don't allow excessive snow to build up on the roof.
True. Also, that building codes are really meant to be a MINIMUM criteria, but they are rarely exceeded because people tend to want to do things as cheaply as possible. You can only engineer a building to withstand a defined amount of weight, and Mother Nature can always throw more at you than was anticipated.
I didn't know anything about building materials, but I was wandering if the steel frame could be reinforced with cement coating on the outside of a Qonset, I'm guessing there would definitely need to be bigger & stronger steel rods( frame).
I think the option for 18ga steel is worth the extra money. What's the life expectancy of a Q model.. I've heard like 40 years for structure and water seal. One concern is in making the investment knowing replacing the shell would be an impossible nightmare. Did you have to get a Florida Engineer to make building plans with wall energy ratings? Plumbing? Electrical? Did they start with the buildings provided plans?
What about spray foaming the outside of the Q then covering the entire structure with epdm pond liner?. The only thing that worries me is rodents possibly chewing the rubber. I’d like to do a green roof over it so the sun and cold don’t fluctuate the temperature so much. Thermal mass.
A models are the weakest structurally of all the ones they make and I tend to be biased against them for that reason. My preference would be go with a Q or S.
It's hard to answer this with a simple yes or no, there are so many variables. I'm not sure how the city water and electricity connections play into the question/answer here. Do city connections cost more because of permits etc or cost less because solar and drilling a well are expensive? What is your budget for the house? What are your quality expectations for the house and for the Quonset build? Are you doing this as a DIY build or are you hiring it out? I do know this: if it is a DIY build a Quonset is a great way to go and get a unique look for a lower overall cost than a conventional build, in most cases. But compared to buying - I have no idea how much a house like you want costs in your area. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
What gauge steels did they use on the one with the windows, the "thin" and "thick" alternating panels? I just put a deposit on a Q model whith 20 gauge panels.
You also have to remember that gauge by itself is kind of meaningless - the size , shape, and location all play into it. Larger buildings have to be heavier gauge. Q models are strongest so sometimes they can be a little thinner by comparison. Local conditions where you are building also matter a lot, because of snow/wind/seismic loads etc.
Got it thanks. Was just trying to figure out if the gauge you struggled more with due to weight/flexibility was the same gauge as mine. Need to get the right muscle to help me put it up.
@@CleverModerns also wondering if mine was priced fairly. Have seen some online priced a good bit less per sq ft with the same dimensions and steel gauge. 40x60x14, Q model, 20 gauge, end walls, 1 fully enclosed, 1 12x10 opening, deluxe trim kit, $8.75 per sq ft.
@@Brian-cw4iy Oh got it. Yeah the 20 ga panels are pretty easy to handle. We started calling them “potato chips” in contrast to the heavy ones. Like, oh good the next arch will be easy they’re potato chips. You got this.
Great question! I suppose in theory you could, but I'm not enough of an expert on welding sheet metal to offer a meaningful opinion. The steel panels are galvanized and welding would ruin the coating, although you could paint it to protect the metal from rusting after welding. If you were highly skilled at welding auto bodies and such you might be able to do it. It would probably void the manufacturer's warranty although that might not matter to you.
Welding galvanized steel is toxic..must have breathing aperatice and ventilation..welding thin metal usually is Done by Tig welder or oxy cetaling..it takes a very special skilled welder and is expensive..I don't recommend it.bolts work fine.
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If I were to ever have a Quonset hut home, I would love to have my garage, art studio and home all in the same building. Out in the countryside.
That sounds absolutely lovely!
You don't want the garage in the same building if you have a gasoline vehicle.
Earl, the magic word is wind SHEAR and it can increase or decrease even in the same locality if your exposed or on higher ground. We sometimes have to build internal buttresses on exposed brick homes if there are to be large open internal areas.
The information about the beefing up is priceless, I had not realised, (so I am not so clever as I might think) I will be talking to my supplier in the UK next week about upgrading the gauge of the panels on my new Q to allow shed dormas .
Well done Earl.
Hey Mike, yes - Wind Shear! Thank you! I'm curious what your supplier says about how they handle the structure. Keep me posted! Cheers -
Would it be cheaper to have windows in the roof instead of sides( especially if you plan to put the building in the ground.?
If cement can't be used to reinforce the frame of a Qonset frame( or can) what other materials could be used?
In MA we had a very heavy snow several years ago and 135 roofs collapsed. Surprisingly, several were quonset buildings. Moral of story, don't allow excessive snow to build up on the roof.
True. Also, that building codes are really meant to be a MINIMUM criteria, but they are rarely exceeded because people tend to want to do things as cheaply as possible. You can only engineer a building to withstand a defined amount of weight, and Mother Nature can always throw more at you than was anticipated.
I didn't know anything about building materials, but I was wandering if the steel frame could be reinforced with cement coating on the outside of a Qonset, I'm guessing there would definitely need to be bigger & stronger steel rods( frame).
I think the option for 18ga steel is worth the extra money.
What's the life expectancy of a Q model.. I've heard like 40 years for structure and water seal. One concern is in making the investment knowing replacing the shell would be an impossible nightmare.
Did you have to get a Florida Engineer to make building plans with wall energy ratings? Plumbing? Electrical? Did they start with the buildings provided plans?
What about spray foaming the outside of the Q then covering the entire structure with epdm pond liner?. The only thing that worries me is rodents possibly chewing the rubber. I’d like to do a green roof over it so the sun and cold don’t fluctuate the temperature so much. Thermal mass.
To Iggy's point, how about a garage and storage/office units from containers with quonset roofs?
How strong is it during a hurricane...
The factory engineers design these things for Florida and other hurricane zones all the time.
Your examples only include the Q& S models but what about the A models if built on a 5’ tall foundation wall ?
A models are the weakest structurally of all the ones they make and I tend to be biased against them for that reason. My preference would be go with a Q or S.
Is it cheaper to build a Quonset than to buy a house, especially if you are not connecting electricity from the city or water from the city?
It's hard to answer this with a simple yes or no, there are so many variables. I'm not sure how the city water and electricity connections play into the question/answer here. Do city connections cost more because of permits etc or cost less because solar and drilling a well are expensive? What is your budget for the house? What are your quality expectations for the house and for the Quonset build? Are you doing this as a DIY build or are you hiring it out?
I do know this: if it is a DIY build a Quonset is a great way to go and get a unique look for a lower overall cost than a conventional build, in most cases. But compared to buying - I have no idea how much a house like you want costs in your area. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
What gauge steels did they use on the one with the windows, the "thin" and "thick" alternating panels? I just put a deposit on a Q model whith 20 gauge panels.
I think they were 20ga and 16 ga. IIRC.
You also have to remember that gauge by itself is kind of meaningless - the size , shape, and location all play into it. Larger buildings have to be heavier gauge. Q models are strongest so sometimes they can be a little thinner by comparison. Local conditions where you are building also matter a lot, because of snow/wind/seismic loads etc.
Got it thanks. Was just trying to figure out if the gauge you struggled more with due to weight/flexibility was the same gauge as mine. Need to get the right muscle to help me put it up.
@@CleverModerns also wondering if mine was priced fairly. Have seen some online priced a good bit less per sq ft with the same dimensions and steel gauge. 40x60x14, Q model, 20 gauge, end walls, 1 fully enclosed, 1 12x10 opening, deluxe trim kit, $8.75 per sq ft.
@@Brian-cw4iy Oh got it. Yeah the 20 ga panels are pretty easy to handle. We started calling them “potato chips” in contrast to the heavy ones. Like, oh good the next arch will be easy they’re potato chips. You got this.
I think you answered my question about windows in roof🤔🤔( skylights?)
Can you weld to the structure?
Great question! I suppose in theory you could, but I'm not enough of an expert on welding sheet metal to offer a meaningful opinion. The steel panels are galvanized and welding would ruin the coating, although you could paint it to protect the metal from rusting after welding.
If you were highly skilled at welding auto bodies and such you might be able to do it.
It would probably void the manufacturer's warranty although that might not matter to you.
Welding galvanized steel is toxic..must have breathing aperatice and ventilation..welding thin metal usually is Done by Tig welder or oxy cetaling..it takes a very special skilled welder and is expensive..I don't recommend it.bolts work fine.
We're did you buy your jenson windows?
We got these at Home Depot. They are Jeld-Wen brand.
people use rebar and shotcrete on these structures
Man edit your thoughts before you produce this. This information is valuable but watching was painful.