How to Compress Rear Brake Caliper "No Special Tools"
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- Опубликовано: 18 фев 2018
- How to compress a rear caliper. Rear brake service tips.
In this video, you will learn how to Compress/wind back a Rear Ebrake Style Brake Caliper and several tips on performing a rear brake pad service properly. Brake Caliper Piston Compressor Windback. This is what should be used: amzn.to/2ECIIWW
It is not recommended that you compress a wind back caliper in this fashion and you run the risk of damaging the rubber boot or damaging the brake caliper piston. I only recommend using this method if you are in a jam.
Here are the Amazon links to the products I used in this video
Oil filter pliers: amzn.to/2HtPT1e
Channel Locks: amzn.to/2HpmHsh
Brake grease: amzn.to/2EEgye4
Silicone Brake slide lube: amzn.to/2sEGHUC
Brake clean: amzn.to/2FdiIyi
My other video on replacing rear drum brakes: • How To Replace Drum Br...
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The Flat Rate Mechanic. 25 year ASE Master Automotive Technician and Advanced level ASE certified
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of The Flat Rate Mechanic, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information or improper use of this information. The Flat Rate Mechanic assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this automotive repair video. The Flat Rate Mechanic recommends safe practices when working on cars or trucks with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this repair video. Due to factors beyond the control of The Flat Rate Mechanic, no information contained in this automotive repair video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. 
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"THIS METHOD SHOULD ONLY BE USED IF YOU ARE IN A JAM" Here is the proper tool: amzn.to/2ECIIWW THERE IS A REAL RISK OF DAMAGING THE CALIPER.
Here are the Amazon links to the products I used in this video
Oil filter pliers: amzn.to/2HtPT1e
Channel Locks: amzn.to/2HpmHsh
Brake grease: amzn.to/2EEgye4
Silicone Brake slide lube: amzn.to/2sEGHUC
Brake clean: amzn.to/2FdiIyi
My other video on replacing rear drum brakes: ruclips.net/video/I7xXOHyST4A/видео.html
A large C clamp and one of the old pads. A C clamp can be used for other things also.
Here is a follow-up video in hope to prevent damaging the brake caliper. ruclips.net/video/qY8-b7W4Db8/видео.html
If no special tools are required C-clamp should work fine
@@x-man5056 I don't think you want to use a C clamp for this type of caliper set up, it TURNS in. I've used needle nose pliers or a home-made tool made out of PVC pipe works like a champ.
@@jonbrausa6205 Nope nope.
I spent 2 hours trying every thing I could find on RUclips to no avail. The C clamp trick worked for me previously but not this time.
I watched this video and thought this is never gonna work. I figured what the hell…….I’ll try it.
In 5 minutes, the piston was compressed and I had the brakes back together. I never would have thought of this but this trick was a lifesaver.
Thank you soooooo much. Made a believer out of me.
It helped me out a ton, I was stuck with this tundra caliper piston and as soon as I turned it clock wise it decompressed. Those 2k dislikes are nuts.
I put an old brake pad on top of the piston and use a c clamp to compress it. Never had a problem. Doesn't work with screw-in pistons, but I bought a cube thing and it's worked on the couple of cars I owned that have those. Always good to pick up new tips. Thanks.
guess we work the same ..lolo i see my comment was a copy of yours .
I always used your method, I don't understand why you want to turn the piston manually, the pistons of screw type turn by themself, any ideas?
These piston don’t push in boys it’s a screw type piston
Why is half the people doggin this guy, he obviously made the video to help out people in a jam to get the job done, great job dude this video just help me out tremendously, like to see more tricks done on other parts
Thanks, man.
I think people are just trying to stop others from doing this. You're 100% creating more problems down the road by using channel locks. Minimum he is gouging the piston which will rip the boot eventually. It's just a bad idea to show people how to do things the wrong way. That's the common rule of mechanics everywhere. That car is on the roads with all our families also. You want a caliper to lock up.on the road next to you and have a hub fly off? Remember its.not just a job it's everyone's safety as well.
@matthew wenzel Right? "in a jam" being the main point 😩
@@cecewd405 in a jam? what are you talking about. how about having the right tool before you do the job. There are hundreds of stores that sell the cube, or the set. this video shows bad practice, and encouraging others to follow suit.
@Dope Flakes correct tool at any auto parts store $5. New caliper because you destroyer the boot $50 minimum.
I used a pair of large needle nose pliers with a bolt inserted between the jaws to lock them at the proper distance to match the holes in the piston. Worked great.
Wish I could shake your hand right now. The piston trick worked flawlessly over that worthless cube I bought. And the tip about placing a lugnut on was priceless. Thank you my friend!
I just want to thank all you U Tubers for posting helpful videos for those of us that don’t really know mechanics. 👍
Thank you so much thanks to you I managed to decompress my calipers. I was on the point of throwing in the towel and paying somebody to do it for me! 👍👍
This is exactly what helped me change my brake pad my brake piston was stuck abs I didn’t know how to compress it like this.This taught me a new way to decompress a brake piston that is stuck
Thanks for this video. You have saved me much heartache. I have changed the brakes on over 20 different vehicles and have never had to spin the caliper Piston. I've always used a c-clamp. Until today when doing the brakes on my Ford C-max I actually bent my c-clamp trying to compress the caliper Piston. Now I know
Bent the clamp woah interesting
Same here ! They are always changing what worked great for some other stupid way of doing things. Engineers need something to do as usual.
Dude I’m a 73 yo who has never done a break job and the other videos never mention the this. I ran into a problem collapsing the the caliper. This was a life saver, thank you Thankyou, Thankyou.
Stuck with an Elantra at 8pm at night, ruined the old pads when removing them, this video was literally a lifesaver.
I have a 97 accord and this helped me compress my piston! You do what you gotta do.
Well done, sir. If I ever encounter those dreadful calipers, I will be sure to follow your advice.
Mustangs have those 😤
Hey Man, just dropped a line to say thanks, I was stuck for a mechanic this evening and sorted the back driver side brakes myself with your help!
Felt like a dummy for not thinking of something so simple. Thank you for this video.
This is a great way of doing this I thought my caliper was broken. 30 minutes max I was done. Life saver!
Awesome, glad video helped out!
You are both good idiots, one more Upton idiot the other
On older calipers all you needed to do was press the piston back in with a large C clamp and an old brake pad. Screw in caliper pistons require a specific tool. If you try to press in, screw in pistons you will end up damaging the calipers and the pistons requiring new ones.
Thanks Flat Rate - I just used a variation or your technique on my 2013 Ford Explorer rear caliper and it worked fine. There was plenty of caliper sticking out so there was no risk of damaging anything. Instead of using an oil filter wrench to apply the pressure, I used a C-clamp which I re-tightened every 1/8 or so turn of the piston.
Sorry to see all those negative comments. Some people just can't think outside the box or appreciate that many things are possible with the right level of finesse and care,
Do you have problems with the braking system? I need to get my right rear brake done once a year.
@@patrickfritchley9210 Sounds like you need a new caliper, or need the one you have serviced.
If you don't know, have it looked at.
@@patrickfritchley9210 Thinking on it, that's odd that a service center wouldn't find an issue? Wheel hub? Did you mention the frequency of pad issue?
Dude. I was about to just throw out my van. I saw this video and my uncle and I both are super appreciative. You saved the day, my friend.
To the people watching, careful about using WD-40 or any other type of petroleum based lubricants on your brakes. It can cause the rubber in your dust boots and seals to start swelling and lose their shape, after which they will start to leak. It's recommended to use silicone based lubricants when working with brakes, like caliper grease or silicone spray.
LISTEN TO THIS GUY!
letme add NEVER USE ANY PETROLEUM IF IT CAN GET IN SYSTEM OR ON RUBBER note caps KARL KNOWS
@@mikerafone4736 Fkn idiots, it harms nothing...mechanic for 45years, its WD40 idiots, not acid LOL
Even though it's been proven that wd40 doesn't cause them to swell? Just like the old untrue myth of wd40 damages bike chains... False
@@bb-ballistics1706 Then go soak you caliper boots in wd40 and report back after about a month lmfao
Bravo. Nicely done. My break were squishy after I installed new break and I couldn't figure it out for the life of me.. after watching your video I found the gap between the break pad itself and the piston. Found the piston forward until it touch the break pad and now the break are nice and stiff thanks man.
Yes! backing the piston back out to remove any gaps is a really important and key step that very few videos mention
I watched half a dozen videos specific to my car and NONE of them mentioned turning the piston. I was thinking I'd have to buy new calipers. thanks for posting this, it was EZ PZ doing it this way!
I tried everyway i know how. Came to youtube for help. I used a C clamp instead of a oil filter clamp. Im ganna follow this channel. Thanks for the help👍
As a longtime part-time mechanic, I find this video to be excellent and your work to be right on point!
So you agree with this defective video. Did you know a real solid mechanic would always open up the bleeder screw and use a caliper tool or at least a c-clamp with the old brake pad placed on the piston. So you're just one of those weekend warrior part-time mechanics huh who doesn't know anything and follows RUclips videos like a reject
@@willsrestorations well actually since you don't know what you're talking about, this is a screw-in parking brake caliper, so you're failed philosophy of using an old brake pad and a C-clamp does not work on this type of a caliper, it has to be screwed back in place, either with the proper tool that fits the caliper piston, or like this gentleman improvised, with the channel locks and the oil filter wrench, obviously your head is up your ass because you're thinking of the standard front calipers in which case yes, you could use an old brake pad and a C-clamp and collapse the piston, and no, you don't need to open the bleeder screw, I've been doing mechanical work for 45 years thanks, so save your weekend warrior comments for yourself loser!
@@willsrestorations What a vile human being you are.
@@Syncopia were you able to stop at the pharmacy today and grab your lunch. Obviously not. Go kick rocks
@@willsrestorations you're a pillock. Firstly you don't need to back off bleed nipples for rear twist in pistons you melt, nor do you need to do it on 90% of cars as its only certain types of master cylinder that you can ruin the diaphragm and on some cars like VW if you do bleed as you twist it can throw up a fault on the ABS module hence why VW don't specify it, any golf owner pre mk6 will testify to this and how they had to VCDS a ABS bleed after bleeding off the nipple on the rear brakes as they were wound in. Piston crowns are usually a mess and never perfectly flat unless you overhauled the caliper with an aftermarket piston, manufacturer pistons are a joke they don't sit flush on the pad to begin with so who the hell are you trying to kid with your imaginary perfectly square old pad as some sort of leveling device🤣 mate a set of irwin quick clamps will by fact force the piston in squarer than your silly method. In fact using old pads as a squaring device is the actual BODGE. Plus how can you wind the piston in then if the pads over the top of the piston crown blocking your angle? 🤣 did you even think before you spoke?
I managed to turn my one piston using pointed nose pliers, but the other refused to cooperate. Your tip on squeezing and turning at the same time worked for me. Saved me a lot of further trouble.
Another way is to use needle nose and locking pliers to rotate piston...I did it that way..works good
You’re my fing hero just saved me HOURS with 10 minutes of screen time!!!!!
Watching from Yosemite Kentucky. I'm changing front and rear brakes and rotors on my 2011 Ford Flex. Thanks much for sharing.
Glad to help
Thanks for the tip. Normally I never have a problem screwing those pistons back into the caliper with next to no compression pressure at all , but alas, I finally ran into a stubborn one, even with the bleeder open. I was about to run out and rent a compression tool from my parts supplier, but thought I would do a quick search. It worked like a charm. 2 minuets later, back in business. Thanks again.
Rent? You can buy one with a full set of different heads for less than $10 on Amazon
@@TheMuddatrucker yeah the £10 ones are a joke they snap and will hurt you as well as bust your piston up. The £20-30 ones are fine though as they aint powdered metal shafts and all that nonsense. Powdered metal parts on tools send loads of unsuspecting users to hospital.
This method worked well for me. Instead of using oil filter pliers, I used a C-clamp with the foot that spins against the piston face. Worked like a champ! Thanks for this video!
A C-clamp and a drill works wonders on rear drive shaft rotors aswell . fast and efficient
Just an additional input. Use one of the old pads against the piston to prevent any nicks/scrapes. Also if there are 2 piston it will compress both of them at the same time. And ALWAYS remove the cap from the master cyclinder.
NOt for this system, u need to push and turn clockwise... the parking brake mechanism is inside the piston
@@ricebike Good to note that
Thank you sir I thought it was going to be a simple brake job but your video saved my a$$
A guy tries to help and gets negative comments, not every one has every tool, not every one needs to have every tool, thats why people use hacks and if it helps someone so what, good job.good video good advice, 👍👍👍👍
Yes this guy's technique is on point I'm a backyard mechanic and have done alot of brakes and I have had issues with the calipers I definitely won't have issues again thank man for this video
What a awesome tip to get the brake piston back. That helped me a lot. Thanks!
I gotta admit that at first I was thinking to myself "here we go with another hack job video" but you did a professional job and had lots of tips for beginners. Nicely done!
I pulled out my phone and watched this video and now my rear brakes are done! Thanks!
I love to see all these people calling you a hack saying you will damage the seal or the piston. The seal is at the far end of that piston, deep inside the caliper. I do it the same except using a c-clamp to push it down, for over 20 years and never messed one up. You would have to be intentionally trying to destroy something. The rubber you can see is is just a dust cover. If you have days to wait on Amazon, go ahead. But to get on here and criticize someone else? Post a video yourself and show us exactly how doing what he's doing is going to harm it, or come to work at my shop and tell me you need that tool to finish the job, then go find another job.
Exactly, after having the tool fail on me a few times I've been using channel locks and a piston collapsing tool for the front. As long as you don't tear the boot there is NO problem doing it this way. I've done it like this for 30 years now. NEVER had an issue. I've seen more failed brake jobs because the mechanic did a shitty job then anything else
I've also been doing the c-clamp trick for about 20 years, never wrecked anything yet. Easy for people to hate I guess.
No thanks, I’ll do it the correct way 👍🏻
If you were in my shop and I saw you do this. You will be fired on the spot and your pay docked for damages incurred and the time to fix your screw up.
You will STOP🛑 .....eventually 🚧🚧
That is one of the best videos I've seen. Your explanation is spot on with each step. Thank you.
I just put the pad over the piston and push it in with a large pair of channel locks nice video well done...
👍 good demo. Its never too late to learn a new technique
just a note , the caliper piston usually has recessed areas were the inner brake pad seats in to. you can rotate the piston to line up with them. If you dont line up the pad to fit the pad to the piston caliper can be installed but will be misaligned. This will wear pads unevenly and may cause a soft pedal feel. Also apply and release the parking brake to verify operation.
As well as misalignment the piston can rotate and may cause the nut in the parking brake to wind toward the pad, causing pad wear. (Remember how you wind the piston in to back-off the parking brake, it's the reverse.)
I'm a newbie,I still can't get my piston to turn
Twisting the piston back with needle nose pliers pushed into the slots for the rewind tool is a better alternative. Less risk of damaging your piston where it seals on the square profile seal.
This worked great and was easier than expected, thanks!
Or at a real push the proper tool😎
Needles nose pliers to pinch your skin and also slip off the piston,
Helped me out in a jam. I had everything set to go, only need to compress the piston, but it wasn't budging. Found this video, and it helped tremendously. Thanks!
You just saved me a couple hundred bucks with this video. Thanks!!
Thanks for the cool trick well impressed it made my day seeing that very helpful 👍👍👍
This video definitely helped me out! Didn’t want to pay $60 to rent the tool. Thank you for showing this!! Thought I was going to be stuck for a bit.
It's free at Autozone
@@dougwhiting6623 cheap ass didn't want to pay 60 he'd get back
You get your 60 bucks back
I have an 04 mazda 3, and has the same piston type, what I did was to push it with an extension and have my dad rotate it with some channel locks, I did this because I couldn't find the right tool anywhere, and I needed my car to be ready as soon as possible.
Good info here. Not to everyones liking, but the flat rate mechanic has the experience and know how to do this in a time efficient manner.
Great tip. Great advice all around.
Customer brought me a car with messed up calipers after trying to do it himself.
Leaking and torn boots.
I use the tool 100% of the time. Wait! Didnt adjust brakes! Manually activate the park brake lever. Also forgot to mention the notches in piston need to line up with tabs on brake pads.
I usually mark piston and orient it to same position when winding it in. Makes for a perfect job!
Should have at very least, made sure the beeder screw will open, pinched the line, opened the bleeder screw and evacuated the nasty shit out of the caliper instead of pumping it back upstream?
Here is a follow-up video in hope to prevent damaging the brake caliper. ruclips.net/video/qY8-b7W4Db8/видео.html
@@markwarren5644 no no no you don't bleed screw in rear calipers till after the brakes are serviced and back on mate. The screw in part is basically a chamber inside the brake chamber and to fully get the air out of that the system needs to be sealed as you wind it in. You can cause extra work on some cars bleeding as you screw in like VW they are notorious for needing an ABS module bleed via VCDS if you do it that way. Front brake wise and non-screw in type rears then your method is spot on, just not for screw ins.
Thanks man, you just saved me, i was changing brake pads, never worked on this kind of brake system...thanks
Which is the same as saying you never did a rear brake job. Not knocking you. You could be masterful doing rear drums for all I know?
rear disc
Thanks a lot... this really helped me out..ill always keep this method in mind 💯
Very good advise, thank you. I used a "proper tool" in combination with an air-ratchet and failed (on Jag S-Type 2004). Turning clockwise was very easy and solved the problem. Cheers, Peter
G-clamp.
That’s a great idea and I may have to try it if I’m ever in a real bad bind but it would probably be safer to flip the pliers and turn it the correct way so they don’t slip and gouge the piston. Once again, great idea over the crap tool
Dude!!! You made my life so much easier, thank you!!!
I used an old twenty mill socket and cut slots into it to fit the groove in the caliper so you just push in the rachet wrench with extention and modded socket and push and twist like you do with tool brake tool
Thank you very much for this video it helped out alot I would have never thought it was a twist caliper keep up the good work
I was in a pinch looked up your video thank you very much I appreciate it
THANK YOUUUU. SAVED ME A TRIP TO THE STEALERSHIP. I used the traditional piston compressor and a pair of channel locks. 2 minutes later i was done.
2 years later your brake calipers are done.. enjoy spending about $500 replacing them.
Bill Herd that’s a sad comment.
loser
Thx you so much ! I had never seen brake pistons that had to rotate. The plyer method have work wonderful you saved me a lot of time and money !
Thanks, don’t always have tool when needed, this helps.
Here’s what I do when I don’t have the spanner block available. I bolt the caliper back onto the bracket without the pads before I put the rotor on. Then use a long needle nose pliers to span the gap and push and twist the piston on. Goes fast and easy.
That is much better then using grips on a damn piston like an amature.
Exactly. Mount it back up with no pads and no rotor. Simple.my rotor compression tool is MAC and it works great.
Bout to try this right now
It worked, didn't have to buy any tools
@@the1one18 EXCELLENT! I’m glad it helped!
Awesome job I've done this before it works in a jam long as your careful of the piston boot nothing wrong with it
Good job Sir. I really appreciate your technique.👍
Instead of a oil filter wrench, a large C clamp on the tool was used plus a channel locks and it worked! Had to turn them both at the same time. What a relief.
Great idea with the oil filter wrench, perfect tool for that. Dont know why some are freaking out using the channel locks. Ive read plenty reviews that the special tool will cam out of its peg holes or crunch the boot if you are not very careful as well as being hard enough to use that you need 3 hands for it. Just because some people are afraid or uncomfortable/inexperienced it doesn't mean someone else is wrong in doing it a different way. Great tip, great job!
Im trying to figure out the one on my chrysler. The IDIOT who is responsible for this design needs a "good ol boy" whoopin. I had an accord which I bought the "7$" tool to do. It doesn't work on my t& c. The special tool ranges 100-150$ and is by special order, no loaner or rental.
100% correct. I've done well over 500 brake jobs and the piston pusher kits cause more damage than pliers do. The worst one is if you use a cheater bar on the end of the T-handle to get more turning force, they end up pushing the piston in off square and ruin the screw mechanism or the piston contacts the side wall and you damage a part that slides by the square cut seal. These dorks on here having a go at this guy know nothing as the proper procedure for a piston that won't retract with the press tool is to "apply moderate pressure to piston crown, turn with flat jawed pliers making sure the jaws are bellow the piston crown but above the area that will contact the square cut seal" That's the advice given yet these plonkers are all saying this guy is doing an unsafe job. They aren't mechanics, this guy is.
@@donniebrown2896 good one. Can get them on ebay for £20 here mate so maybe not look at the snap on one next time.
There are kits for 10 bucks to do that without the risk of damage
Thank you for this video. I couldn't figure out why the piston wouldn't compress. I didn't know it needed to twist. You saved the day!
If you tried to push the piston in instead of turning it you may have ruined the caliper
I wish I would have seen this video 2 days ago. Just changed out all of the pads and rotors all the way around my 2011 Ford Edge Sport yesterday. The rear was a real pain. I ended up removing the calipers, then the bracket, then the rotor (which was rusted on Bad), then re-installed the bracket and calipers to get leverage to get that stupid special tool in, which just kept slipping off. Took me like 10 minutes per calipers just to get the pistons in. So I ended up having to do the rear brakes 2 times each because of that stupid screw-in piston design. Will definitely try your method next time. Thanks.
Thank you! I learned more watching you do that job than anybody else’s video :)
I’m a carpenter and I use a clamp super easy, 😃😃Nice video
Yeah, that means u don't have this type of rear brake caliper. m.ruclips.net/video/zNGwq-EyfHM/видео.html
I’ve always had a real easy time using needle nose pliers shove them in the piston and spin and push all in one motion.
Johnny Branson me too, I was going to say that until I saw your post 👍
Yes, until you get a piston that refuses to turn. Then you run the risk of the pliers slipping out and tearing the boot. Its always best to use the correct tool.
Its all fun and games untill the piston is fucked and doesnt budge
Lmao I post the exact same thing then saw your comment
Me too . Easiest way
Just did this. My Cadillac manual specifically says to use the ends of a set of needle nose pliers to screw the piston back in. One side screwed back in easily, the other side would not budge. Had to replace the caliper. The core charge was more than the new part.
Great thing to use when you’re in a pinch I’ll give you that for sure! but as far as efficiency goes it takes 10x longer than just using the tool so especially being flat rate you’re losing money doing it that way, which isn’t directed towards you specifically just for others to read if other flat rate techs are watching this
Hey thanks man your video really helped out a starting mechanic today. All by myself in the shop and I have to get this escape done and had no idea what I was doing.
Did the same brake set-up on a Nissan yesterday - skipped the "put pressure on the piston" bit & just carefully wound it back in with a grips - no pressure required, it just retracts nice & smooth. Most important thing with these is to apply the handbrake when done & see does it release the pads fully when you let it off - make sure the rotor spins smoothly - this pad set-up has a real tendency to bind.
Must admit it's probably not the best method, but it got the job done. Took away my frustration when it wouldn't go in and this helped greatly. Of course, proceed with caution and pay attention!
Every mechanic at one time or another has had to improvise. Great video
great video brother i do them without the tool and never had a problem.
You “never had a problem”.. a year or two later, the vehicle may beg to differ after the owner needs to spend $600 replacing both sides brake calipers.
Try them next time with the tool, ypu will wonder why you spend all that time dicking around with pliers and channel locks.
Thanks buddy. Your video has given me directions to which way to proceed. I was stuck on my explorer calibers. I didn't know that I have to turn clockwise instead of using a c-clamp to push piston back in... awesome man...much appreciated vato...👍
Yes! Was working on my brakes and rotors for the first time. Did not expect to see this as most tutorial videos don't show this style of caliber. Is this just a different or newer design?
I actually just used a C-clamp and just unscrewed it with that. The oil filter wrench didn't work for me. So just tighten the c-clamp down, then rotate it until it slips and doesn't spin the piston, then rotate it back (because now it's loose). Then just re-tighten it, and spin again and your done.
@@jackmead7292 👍👍👍
You keep on doing these videos!!!! I'm subscribed. Great vid and discussion regardless.
Great stuff. You can also loosen the bleed screw a little to allow the piston to go in easier when compressed.
Thanks for telling me that I for got about that to
Great video. Did this job recently. A few points you must remove cap from master cylinder before pushing back piston. What happened to me ( even with the cap off) the other brake cylinder seal on the same line started leaking. What I will be doing next time is undoing the bleed nipple on the brake cylinder I am pushing back. You must understand the the brake fluid in the push back cylinder must go somewhere. I thought of gripping the brake hose with a tool but my brake hose was very hard and it was not possible. Now my seals in my other brake cylinder might have been going anyway. But the pressure pushed them over the edge. There are normally opposite wheel on each brake line. So front right/ rear left and front left/ rear right. As there are two chambers in master cylinder this is a safety feature .
@@alanfrancis9225 I doubt that the other seal leaked because of your pressure on the one you were working with. There is far more pressure when you put your foot on the pedal to stop.
Yes it is good idea to loosen the bleed nipple of the piston you are pushing back which makes it very easy to push in but be aware that some brakes are of the type where the pistons rotate to push them back. A Honda accord with disks on the rear that I recently worked on was that type where the method was to rotate the piston as it was pushed back.
Happy home mechanics is reward in itself as well as being a cost saver.!!
@@Rob-fx2dw
Very good point. Probably worn seals. Yes got the tool as my rear calliper’s have to be rotated towards rear of car. Front just straight push back
Well you're freaking awesome! Thanks a bunch. I have a Mazda5 which I believe are very similar.
I have a Mazda 5 also, they are the same.
Thanks, you saved me $150C for a new caliper. Not to mention the C$200C core charge!
Take it from someone who's used several different versions of that caliper tool, they don't always work that well. In that situation this is the best way to compress that piston.
Awesome video, it helped me get out of a jam and worked well. The tool I bought was the wrong size and would not adjust at 9:30 at night. Using this method worked real well!!!
Working after sunset sucks i feel u
I've done the same on an Escape using a C clamp and adjustable pliers
Thanks for the video, i couldnt compress in my rear brake caliper to install my new brake pads, This video is helpful.
Thanks bro for the video It literally saved me on buying new brake calipers totaling about $190 😁👍
Excellent tip! I was stuck. 2014 Hyundai Veloster (rears). You saved the day! I used a big long woodworkers clamp to put the pressure on the face of the Piston while I turned it with a smaller set of water pump pliers. Works like a charm. Don't let the knucklehead naysayers give you grief! Very practical tip!
Finally someone that does a proper brake job with cleaning and greasing. 👍
This is NOTHING close to a quality job. This guy shouldnt be allowed to touch a tool box.
thanks you for your amazing video i know very few will agree but if with normal tool the piston does not go back in this is a great solution i did not damage the piston or the seal rubber. i can reuse my caliper assembly now i have been using those tool like clamp vise and specially made caliper tool to get the piston to go back in and no success. but with simple pair of pliers i twice clockwise went right back in extremely easily. i have bent multiple tool finally gave up in the past and bought the all caliper assembly 300 dollar i probably did the 3 or 4 time in the past i knew there was 1 more trick to do this finally did it. thank you for your video you will save me thousand of dollar sincerely appreciate
Thank you bro you just saved me a lot of time I was out there for 4 hours trying to figure out how to do that thank you I'm subscribe thank you for your advice
This is a good solution but just be careful not to slip and mar the piston or bite the rubber boots and you should have no problem. I opted to use a pipe wrench instead of channel locks, but the filter wrench was a perfect way to keep pressure on the piston as it seats back into the calipers
You use a pipe wrench and say not to mar it up 😂😂ok. C clamp for the win!
Most of the Ford calipers that have to be pushed in the part you would grab with some pliers is not part of the piston it's just a cap and cannot hurt anything minus maybe the dust boot if you tear into that but again it's pretty easy to just grab the cap
Thanks for this video. I was teaching my son how to replace brakes on his 2012 Focus. Front was easy, back brakes sucked - until I took a break and watched this. It worked perfect.
So now you're teaching your son to be defective like you and the guy in this video. Teach your son to use a c-clamp and also open up that bleeder screw so you don't damage the ABS system or the proportioning valve as you will on many cars
@UCor8aM3CNFvblEKL7qCudCQ clamp don’t work and these you moron
Hey thanks buddy for this tipp you saved me a lot of worry& trouble arranging a lift to work, as piston popped up and could not get the Tool in there , as piston was out maximum.
Good video! Thanks for sharing.
Great video. I wish I found yours first. First time I am doing a screw in piston brake job and don't have the tool. It's at nite now with no place to get one so your tip on how to without one , gives me some hope on having it done by morning. I don't have the filter pliers but hey when you live in the country one tends to get resourceful. I'll " get,er done". Thanks.
Sometimes you have to work late and you need a tool you don’t have. Stores are closed and you need to keep working. Can’t count how many times I’ve been in that situation great tutorial for people who get the job done instead of complaining about not having/using the “proper” tool.
Well in that case, I'd wait till the next morning. I've spun in calipers with pliers and wouldn't waste the effort again after using the right tool
Chris M some people work in the morning and need their cars. I get your perfect world scenario, but sometimes you have to man up and do the job with whatever works.
@@TidalWaveDan if I was in that scenario, I'd put the old pads back until I got the tool. Thats just me.
Chris M you’re still compartmentalizing the situation to suit your argument. Sometimes it’s not a simple brake change. Could be a broken spark plug, could be a fuel pump, etc. I mean no offense whatsoever, but at this point I’m assuming you don’t know much about car repair.
@@TidalWaveDan did you miss the "thats just me", part? Of course I'm supporting my argument which is why I stated it as opinion. Arent you doing the same, "compartmentalize the situation to support your argument"? I understand working with what you have, but we aren't talking about spark plugs or anything else. We're talking about depressing a rear caliper piston. I spent atleast 20 minutes spinning my piston with vise grips before putting the old pads back and going to the parts store to rent the tool. The time before that(previous vehicle) I got it in spinning it with needle nose and it was a huge pain, never again. So again, IF IT WAS ME, I would wait until I had right tool. If you have the presence of mind to purchase new pads and take it all apart to replace, you can have the presence of mind to rent the tool before doing so. Its called forward thinking
This trick worked when my c clamp was warping, appreciate the tip!
Damn you... You put that clip back on so easily!! I always have a devil of a time with those!
I know! From bitter experience. He's done it a couple of times for sure!
This is the easy one,some models harder.
@@garymills6702 don't couple of time,once time enough.