I got tired of fighting with those snap rings too. Tell ya what works great is a small pry bar. I bought the cheap set for I think $10 at Harbor Freight and took the smallest one, grinded the edges to make it slim enough to fit between the lugs in the input drum, and it works great every time. No more fighting. Great video, my friend.
Great tip, man! Will look into fashioning one out of a small pry bar for tear down videos...I have no problem dealing with them once the drum is vertical but it makes for less than ideal filming angles, lol.
This is quite literally the type of video i was looking for. I ordered a 4l65e from monster transmissions and it went boom they wouldnt warranty it and now i have it being torn down and it appears to be a 4l60e instead of a 4l65e.
Sucks to hear about your experience with Monster, though I hear the same complaints with their stuff when rebuilding one of their transmissions...Had a Monster Transmissions 4L60E in my shop about 6 months ago and apart from the billet servo assembly, it was basically a stock-level build. Was marketed to handle over 500HP... Thank you for watching, Beastman!
For how expensive they are its amazing they are getting away with that it's a shame that we aren't getting the transmissions we ordered. 3700 down the drain not including labor. I'm hoping with your video here and the other you referenced in the 4l60e here helps us solve something and get a win.🎉 praying to the race gods 🙏
It's a Transgo part used to tighten up band clearance as most factory spec bands have too much which results in a harsher than usual 1-2 shift and excessive wear on the band anchors.
Hi, no need to send fan mail (I appreciate it!) but I do like coffee :) Any support here would be greatly appreciated : buymeacoffee.com/nickstransmissions
@@nickstransmissions Yeah I will probably go through your 4l60 series first since this wasn't as in depth, but they seem to be pretty much the same transmission.
Yep, procedurally, there wont be any differences between them. The 4L60E teardown vid is also much more in depth in terms of inspection points and procedures that I cover (I think you've watched it but I could be wrong). Plus my reassembly vids...If you're doing anything high performance, check out my 4L60E High Performance Part 1 and Part 4 for parts selection, tips and tricks for setting up shift firmness, mods for strength and durability, etc.
@@nickstransmissions It's for an 05 Yukon XL which is basically a suburban, so i would like it to be beefed up a bit, capable for towing and/or just getting itself around without a care. I watched your 4l80e video so far and this one, plenty more to learn....
With the drum design basically the same across all models can I use a 60E drum and install the 70E stack up of clutches and steels or is there a design difference that I’m not aware of I have a few of them, but they had six clutches, and I would like to add a clutch when I start to build them back
Yep - you can use the 4L65 or 70 apply and backing plates along with their respective 3-4 clutch and steels (the 65/70Es used .065 clutch plates and .095 steel plates) to make a 7 clutch 3-4 stack up in any 700R4 or 4L60E from 1988 on up. The forward and coast clutch apply plates, steels and frictions remained unchanged.
The reluctor gear was cast into the input shaft for all 4L60Es that reveived a turbine speed sensor starting in 2006. The tss-equipped models prolifierated across the entire 4L60E-4L65-4L70E product line by 2008. And the name (ie number) indicates relative strength/torque handling capabilies; has nothing to do with the intro of the turbine speed sensor. The 4L70E superceded the 4L65E in 2007 and had an induction-hardened reaction shaft, something the 65 did not come with. giving it more torque handling capacity (420 ft lbs vs 380 ft lbs) over the 4L65E. Hence why the designation changed from 4L65E to 4L70E. Just to clarify for anyone else reading this: The designation change to "4L70E" had absolutely nothing to do with the introduction of the TSS.
@@nickstransmissions should I caution what I read and learn information that I got from reading into the ATRA handbook or manual and this is “in my word this is what it told/taught me. in 2006 with the 4L65E being redesigned (strengthened) and the added input, speed sensor, came the introduction of the 4L70E basically a much stronger design of the 4L65E so yes he treated and hardened or strengthen reluctor style shaft, and added strength all-around. it also stated in the book that the 60-65-70Es was beginning its phase out and would be ending production, however, all of them began receiving the ISS in the year 2007 by end of year 2008 they would all be discontinued and a complete new design would be introduced in 2009 so I wasn’t trying to misinformed anyone with my earlier comment I was just pointing out that all 70s came with a reluctor cast into the shaft as it was the first one to actually receive the input speed sensor in 2006 not the 60 nor the 65 they did not receive it till 2007 tho transmission builders when working on the transmissions would start to see in early 2006 the provisions for the ISS but no ISS present as the transition started to come into place and this could be found in all versions of four-speed transmission. and I am aware of the numbers equaling the strength of the units 60E through 85E.
"4 L 70 had a reluctor shaft as it was the addition of a input speed sensor that gave the 70 it’s name" That's what you wrote and anyone interpreting it would think you're stating that the addition of the reluctor gear on the input shaft and input speed sensor is what prompted the name change to 4L70E so that's why I posted a clarification. And to answer your question about the ATRA, yes I have seen them put out inaccurate information in the past. It's not common by any stretch of the imagination but I've seen a few inaccuracies or omissions in their literature (same with the ATSG publications). I wouldn't not refer to them for information as 99.9% of their stuff is correct/accurate; no organization is going to be perfect and occasionally a mistake may make it to published materials. Hopefully that clears things up...Thanks again for watching and for your comments!
Good video. Having the chance to rebuild either a 60 or 65. The 65 would be the better choice in your opinion? Can either be used on a 5.3 or 6.0? Meaning are they all compatible together? Is the kit one would buy specific for the 65?
Thanks - The 4L65/70E variants are compaitble with any Gen3 small block (LS1-9 & 4.3-6.2L truck engines). You can buy clutch and steel modules specifically for the 4L65E (Alto's HE clutch module is what Ive been using lately in all 4L60Es) ...I will ask you your other question-after watching the video and seeing all the differences, what would you rather have for your vehicle?
@@nickstransmissions well I feel either will suffice for my situation but knowing I could have the added 5th planet gear makes ya feel good ya know. Haha.
Hey Jason, yes - if you can get a 4L65E for a few hundred bucks and it's in good shape, absolutely buy it. "I have a chance to get a 3KZD core for relatively cheap. Is this a better option than the current 5SCD or 4CHD? Plan is to 5.3/6.0 my old C10 and want the best possible option" Check out my video on buying a used 4L60E - I provide a bunch of inspection tips and pointers that you can do without taking anything apart to determine if there's any major problems with the unit: ruclips.net/video/nG8VYHKSMv0/видео.html
@@nickstransmissions adding the 5 gear front&rear planets to a current 4L60 as easy as just adding them during the rebuild? How much more torque/HP would it help with absorbing?
Per GM, the new five-pinion planetaries combined with other upgrades (heat treated stator and input shaft splines, upgraded reaction shaft) add about 20-25% torque handling capacity over the base 4L60E. You can add any 4L65E parts to any 4L60E of the same vintage (in other words, 2001-2006 for the 4L65E, 2007+ for the 4L70E when it comes to the pump and input drum, respectively). There is some debate as to whether spending the money for five-pinion planets is really worth it as you'll be shelling out over $200.00 per planet for OEM GM planetary carriers (I wouldn't buy aftermarket planets).
Why do you not use a file when removing the selector shaft? It makes it so much easier to rotate it and go around the flared edges with a small file. It takes just a second and it slips right out no prying, banging hammering, chiseling
No particular reason other than my current method usually works. What you saw in that video is very, very unusual. It usually takes one-three taps, if at all, with the hammer. Most of the time, a pry bar is sufficient to remove it. Thank you for watching!
So if there is no forward gears and M1 M2 M3 don't work either but reverse does its that roller or the sprag? And also there was 1 time I got it to go into forward gear out of nowhere and it went about 20 feet at idle speed and as soon as I tried to accelerate there was a metal clunk sound and it hasn't went back into drive since again.
Check out this 4L60E build strategy video for a list of all parts that I replace during an overhaul - let me know if you have any questions after watching but it will give you a comprehensive list of everything that should go back into these transmissions. The 4L60E featured is a 2009+ unit but if you have a 96-2008 trans, you would purchase a new manual lever position sensor instead of an internal mode switch along with a new pressure switch manifold assembly and 3-2 control solenoid. Everything else is the same. Video: ruclips.net/video/_JxEWdjnpRc/видео.html
I buy all my parts locally, including the Power Packs but you can grab them on eBay, Transpartswarehouse.com, Transtar, CobraTransmissionParts.com and more.
Hi Josiah, thank you for watching... Yes and No...Let me explain... Yes - the transmission will technically bolt up to a 96 Gen 1 SBC (the top bolt hole won't be used) No - it's not a direct plug in play swap owing to the differences in bell housing dimensions, input shaft, torque converters and flex plate bolt patterns between the Gen 1 4L60Es and Gen3/LS 4L60Es like the 4L65E (no 4L65 or 4L70s were produced to be compatible with the Gen 1 engine platform). You will need an adaptor kit like this one from JEGS to make an LS/Gen3 4L60E mate and work correctly on a Gen1 SBC application: www.jegs.com/i/GM%20Performance/809/19154766/10002/-1?CT=999
Man this has had me having more white hairs. I’ve cracked the housing for the 2nd time. The 1st time while using the stock shaft. Because extended arms have been put in rear to center back tire, I felt that 3/4 made a difference due to it not being long enough. The 2nd time I did a popular drive shaft upgrade using a ford interceptor shaft with impala original yoke would be the correct length and it crack again. An this time the car was not being reved up pass 3500 rpm. Im not over 450hp. All new poly mounts. Any suggestions to solving this issue? I appreciate your response to the adapter.
Hi Doug - don't I go into an explanation about load release springs in the video? If not, I'll provide my take here though there's at least a few vids where I discuss them and use cases for and against but I can't remember exactly which ones... Who told you the latter?
Nick, I found a spring on my floor. Its about as long as a pinkie finger nail. Its really short. Really stiff. Its width is about as long as half a pinkie nail. I didn’t see it come out when working on the housing pump. What could it be for? Ty
Hey Nick, I rewatched your video, really enjoyed level of detail. I have a gold ring I pulled out of transmission. Have no idea where it came from. Its about 3.4 inches by 3.4 inches. Any thoughts? Can I send you an email to take look? I would also pay you for your time. Thx mate
@@nickstransmissions thanks Nick! Here is another good question, what are your thoughts on the longer servo pin? I picked up a corvette servo, should I use the gold ring still?
You can download the manual here: atsgbookstore.com/4l60e-4l65e-4l70e-update-handbook/ You always want the ATSG or ATRA manual for the unit you're working on handy, especially if you're new to transmission rebuilding. My videos will get you really close but having the manual in combination with those videos will give you everything you need to work on or rebuild the transmission correctly the first time.
I have a 04 LQ9 6.0 engine and I want to drop it in an old Chevy truck. What transmission would you recommend? I’d like to know your professional opinion. Thanks
Hi, what's the application (DD, towing/hauling/working, racing, etc) and how much power will the engine be putting out (will be be ran in stock form or modded/upgraded)?
@@nickstransmissions I’m sorry I didn’t specify. It’s a bone stock engine off a 2004 Cadillac Escalade LQ9 6.0 swapped in a 1982 C10. (No transmission) Nothing fancy. Just wanted something reliable to cruise around with the O’lady. I appreciate your quick response!
You're welcome and no worries...If you're wanting to keep your options to a 4L60E or 4L80E and plan on using a factory ECM + harness to control the trans, I'd go with whatever that harness and PCM was initially designed to control...Either trans would work in a DD/cruiser application (I'd not recommend any of the 6, 8 or 10 speeds simply due to greater level of complexity and operating costs relative to the 4-speeds). Otherwise you can look at a 700R4 w/an adaptor plate for the TC as the Generation 3 small block (LSX family) used a different TC and bell housing, input shaft and pump for those engines compared to the legacy small block / big block Chevys. You'd have to research the specific steps that need to be taken to integrate it into the whole powertrain but many have done it. If going with a 4L60E, I would do some basic upgrades to the unit so you prevent any issues once the truck is back on the road...
@@nickstransmissions Very informative! My best option that fit my application would be the 4L60E with a stage 3 performance upgrade. Keep it simple to a minimum. I value your opinion and once again, I appreciate your time! Thanks.
Hi George, I don't share my location on youtube but if you are looking for transmission services or to have something rebuilt, please reach out to me in a direct message via the Tahoeyukonforum.com...My user name on there is Nicktransmissions.
I got tired of fighting with those snap rings too. Tell ya what works great is a small pry bar. I bought the cheap set for I think $10 at Harbor Freight and took the smallest one, grinded the edges to make it slim enough to fit between the lugs in the input drum, and it works great every time. No more fighting. Great video, my friend.
Great tip, man! Will look into fashioning one out of a small pry bar for tear down videos...I have no problem dealing with them once the drum is vertical but it makes for less than ideal filming angles, lol.
This Technician is a Beast! Wow!
Thank you, Dr. Charles Glover - appreciate the kind words!
Thanks for the help Nick, Love your videos Brother.
You're welcome, Marty and thank you for watching!
This is quite literally the type of video i was looking for. I ordered a 4l65e from monster transmissions and it went boom they wouldnt warranty it and now i have it being torn down and it appears to be a 4l60e instead of a 4l65e.
Sucks to hear about your experience with Monster, though I hear the same complaints with their stuff when rebuilding one of their transmissions...Had a Monster Transmissions 4L60E in my shop about 6 months ago and apart from the billet servo assembly, it was basically a stock-level build. Was marketed to handle over 500HP...
Thank you for watching, Beastman!
For how expensive they are its amazing they are getting away with that it's a shame that we aren't getting the transmissions we ordered. 3700 down the drain not including labor. I'm hoping with your video here and the other you referenced in the 4l60e here helps us solve something and get a win.🎉 praying to the race gods 🙏
Yep, absolutely true and it's a shame but, to any one who asks, I tell them to stay far away from Monster Transmissions.
Figured out gold ring it was part of the servo woo what a relief!!!
It's a Transgo part used to tighten up band clearance as most factory spec bands have too much which results in a harsher than usual 1-2 shift and excessive wear on the band anchors.
@@nickstransmissions incredible! Btw how do I send in fan mail?
Hi, no need to send fan mail (I appreciate it!) but I do like coffee :) Any support here would be greatly appreciated : buymeacoffee.com/nickstransmissions
Excellent, I have one of these to rebuild, maybe this winter.
Thanks, man! I have plenty of rebuild videos for the 4L60/65 so feel free to watch and post questions when you start your rebuild.
@@nickstransmissions Yeah I will probably go through your 4l60 series first since this wasn't as in depth, but they seem to be pretty much the same transmission.
Yep, procedurally, there wont be any differences between them. The 4L60E teardown vid is also much more in depth in terms of inspection points and procedures that I cover (I think you've watched it but I could be wrong). Plus my reassembly vids...If you're doing anything high performance, check out my 4L60E High Performance Part 1 and Part 4 for parts selection, tips and tricks for setting up shift firmness, mods for strength and durability, etc.
@@nickstransmissions It's for an 05 Yukon XL which is basically a suburban, so i would like it to be beefed up a bit, capable for towing and/or just getting itself around without a care. I watched your 4l80e video so far and this one, plenty more to learn....
With the drum design basically the same across all models can I use a 60E drum and install the 70E stack up of clutches and steels or is there a design difference that I’m not aware of I have a few of them, but they had six clutches, and I would like to add a clutch when I start to build them back
Yep - you can use the 4L65 or 70 apply and backing plates along with their respective 3-4 clutch and steels (the 65/70Es used .065 clutch plates and .095 steel plates) to make a 7 clutch 3-4 stack up in any 700R4 or 4L60E from 1988 on up. The forward and coast clutch apply plates, steels and frictions remained unchanged.
Awesome vid MAN!
Thanks, man!
4 L 70 had a reluctor shaft as it was the addition of a input speed sensor that gave the 70 it’s name
The reluctor gear was cast into the input shaft for all 4L60Es that reveived a turbine speed sensor starting in 2006. The tss-equipped models prolifierated across the entire 4L60E-4L65-4L70E product line by 2008. And the name (ie number) indicates relative strength/torque handling capabilies; has nothing to do with the intro of the turbine speed sensor. The 4L70E superceded the 4L65E in 2007 and had an induction-hardened reaction shaft, something the 65 did not come with. giving it more torque handling capacity (420 ft lbs vs 380 ft lbs) over the 4L65E. Hence why the designation changed from 4L65E to 4L70E. Just to clarify for anyone else reading this:
The designation change to "4L70E" had absolutely nothing to do with the introduction of the TSS.
@@nickstransmissions should I caution what I read and learn information that I got from reading into the ATRA handbook or manual and this is “in my word this is what it told/taught me. in 2006 with the 4L65E being redesigned (strengthened) and the added input, speed sensor, came the introduction of the 4L70E basically a much stronger design of the 4L65E so yes he treated and hardened or strengthen reluctor style shaft, and added strength all-around. it also stated in the book that the 60-65-70Es was beginning its phase out and would be ending production, however, all of them began receiving the ISS in the year 2007 by end of year 2008 they would all be discontinued and a complete new design would be introduced in 2009 so I wasn’t trying to misinformed anyone with my earlier comment I was just pointing out that all 70s came with a reluctor cast into the shaft as it was the first one to actually receive the input speed sensor in 2006 not the 60 nor the 65 they did not receive it till 2007 tho transmission builders when working on the transmissions would start to see in early 2006 the provisions for the ISS but no ISS present as the transition started to come into place and this could be found in all versions of four-speed transmission. and I am aware of the numbers equaling the strength of the units 60E through 85E.
"4 L 70 had a reluctor shaft as it was the addition of a input speed sensor that gave the 70 it’s name"
That's what you wrote and anyone interpreting it would think you're stating that the addition of the reluctor gear on the input shaft and input speed sensor is what prompted the name change to 4L70E so that's why I posted a clarification.
And to answer your question about the ATRA, yes I have seen them put out inaccurate information in the past. It's not common by any stretch of the imagination but I've seen a few inaccuracies or omissions in their literature (same with the ATSG publications). I wouldn't not refer to them for information as 99.9% of their stuff is correct/accurate; no organization is going to be perfect and occasionally a mistake may make it to published materials.
Hopefully that clears things up...Thanks again for watching and for your comments!
Good video. Having the chance to rebuild either a 60 or 65. The 65 would be the better choice in your opinion? Can either be used on a 5.3 or 6.0? Meaning are they all compatible together? Is the kit one would buy specific for the 65?
Thanks - The 4L65/70E variants are compaitble with any Gen3 small block (LS1-9 & 4.3-6.2L truck engines). You can buy clutch and steel modules specifically for the 4L65E (Alto's HE clutch module is what Ive been using lately in all 4L60Es) ...I will ask you your other question-after watching the video and seeing all the differences, what would you rather have for your vehicle?
@@nickstransmissions well I feel either will suffice for my situation but knowing I could have the added 5th planet gear makes ya feel good ya know. Haha.
Hey Jason, yes - if you can get a 4L65E for a few hundred bucks and it's in good shape, absolutely buy it.
"I have a chance to get a 3KZD core for relatively cheap. Is this a better option than the current 5SCD or 4CHD? Plan is to 5.3/6.0 my old C10 and want the best possible option"
Check out my video on buying a used 4L60E - I provide a bunch of inspection tips and pointers that you can do without taking anything apart to determine if there's any major problems with the unit: ruclips.net/video/nG8VYHKSMv0/видео.html
@@nickstransmissions adding the 5 gear front&rear planets to a current 4L60 as easy as just adding them during the rebuild? How much more torque/HP would it help with absorbing?
Per GM, the new five-pinion planetaries combined with other upgrades (heat treated stator and input shaft splines, upgraded reaction shaft) add about 20-25% torque handling capacity over the base 4L60E. You can add any 4L65E parts to any 4L60E of the same vintage (in other words, 2001-2006 for the 4L65E, 2007+ for the 4L70E when it comes to the pump and input drum, respectively).
There is some debate as to whether spending the money for five-pinion planets is really worth it as you'll be shelling out over $200.00 per planet for OEM GM planetary carriers (I wouldn't buy aftermarket planets).
Why do you not use a file when removing the selector shaft? It makes it so much easier to rotate it and go around the flared edges with a small file. It takes just a second and it slips right out no prying, banging hammering, chiseling
No particular reason other than my current method usually works. What you saw in that video is very, very unusual. It usually takes one-three taps, if at all, with the hammer. Most of the time, a pry bar is sufficient to remove it.
Thank you for watching!
So if there is no forward gears and M1 M2 M3 don't work either but reverse does its that roller or the sprag? And also there was 1 time I got it to go into forward gear out of nowhere and it went about 20 feet at idle speed and as soon as I tried to accelerate there was a metal clunk sound and it hasn't went back into drive since again.
Hi Shay, either low roller or rear gear set. Thanks for watching.
@@nickstransmissions is there a link to a rebuild kit you recommend that would fix this issue?
Id tear it down and inspect it prior to ordering any parts. This way you buy only what you need for it.
@nickstransmissions so just replace what's broke plus get new clutches and steels?
Check out this 4L60E build strategy video for a list of all parts that I replace during an overhaul - let me know if you have any questions after watching but it will give you a comprehensive list of everything that should go back into these transmissions. The 4L60E featured is a 2009+ unit but if you have a 96-2008 trans, you would purchase a new manual lever position sensor instead of an internal mode switch along with a new pressure switch manifold assembly and 3-2 control solenoid. Everything else is the same.
Video: ruclips.net/video/_JxEWdjnpRc/видео.html
Where do you get your power-pack clutch kit for the 65e?
I buy all my parts locally, including the Power Packs but you can grab them on eBay, Transpartswarehouse.com, Transtar, CobraTransmissionParts.com and more.
Do these have the same mounting pattern as the 1 piece 4l60e in the 96 impala?
Hi Josiah, thank you for watching...
Yes and No...Let me explain...
Yes - the transmission will technically bolt up to a 96 Gen 1 SBC (the top bolt hole won't be used)
No - it's not a direct plug in play swap owing to the differences in bell housing dimensions, input shaft, torque converters and flex plate bolt patterns between the Gen 1 4L60Es and Gen3/LS 4L60Es like the 4L65E (no 4L65 or 4L70s were produced to be compatible with the Gen 1 engine platform).
You will need an adaptor kit like this one from JEGS to make an LS/Gen3 4L60E mate and work correctly on a Gen1 SBC application: www.jegs.com/i/GM%20Performance/809/19154766/10002/-1?CT=999
Man this has had me having more white hairs. I’ve cracked the housing for the 2nd time. The 1st time while using the stock shaft. Because extended arms have been put in rear to center back tire, I felt that 3/4 made a difference due to it not being long enough. The 2nd time I did a popular drive shaft upgrade using a ford interceptor shaft with impala original yoke would be the correct length and it crack again. An this time the car was not being reved up pass 3500 rpm. Im not over 450hp. All new poly mounts. Any suggestions to solving this issue? I appreciate your response to the adapter.
Hi, unfortunately, no suggestions that come to mind as I'm not familiar with the other mods you've done to your vehicle.
Hey Nick, what's your opinion on the load springs? It has been said that leaving them out throws off band and clutch release timing!
Hi Doug - don't I go into an explanation about load release springs in the video? If not, I'll provide my take here though there's at least a few vids where I discuss them and use cases for and against but I can't remember exactly which ones...
Who told you the latter?
Nick, I found a spring on my floor. Its about as long as a pinkie finger nail. Its really short. Really stiff. Its width is about as long as half a pinkie nail. I didn’t see it come out when working on the housing pump. What could it be for? Ty
Sounds like the bumper spring for the boost valve, goes between the boost and PR valves inside the larger PR spring.
@@nickstransmissions apreciate the follow up. Am i correct I wont need it then since Im installing a new trans go insert?
Insert? what are you referring to when you say "Insert"?
@@nickstransmissions I should have said install. Im installing a new trans go boost valve
Oh, ok...the Transgo boost valve should come with both springs so no need for the stock springs.
Vehicles make everybody look like rookies at times, we are humans!!
Nick can u do video on reverse drum round hole vs square hole
Hi Greg, I'll put one on the channel later this week or early next. Been meaning to do one as I don't any vids on those drums.
Hey Nick, I rewatched your video, really enjoyed level of detail. I have a gold ring I pulled out of transmission. Have no idea where it came from. Its about 3.4 inches by 3.4 inches. Any thoughts? Can I send you an email to take look? I would also pay you for your time. Thx mate
Glad you found where it goes!
@@nickstransmissions thanks Nick! Here is another good question, what are your thoughts on the longer servo pin? I picked up a corvette servo, should I use the gold ring still?
Do you have the ATSG manual for the 4L60E?
@@nickstransmissions i do not have the manual
You can download the manual here: atsgbookstore.com/4l60e-4l65e-4l70e-update-handbook/
You always want the ATSG or ATRA manual for the unit you're working on handy, especially if you're new to transmission rebuilding. My videos will get you really close but having the manual in combination with those videos will give you everything you need to work on or rebuild the transmission correctly the first time.
I have a 04 LQ9 6.0 engine and I want to drop it in an old Chevy truck. What transmission would you recommend? I’d like to know your professional opinion.
Thanks
Hi, what's the application (DD, towing/hauling/working, racing, etc) and how much power will the engine be putting out (will be be ran in stock form or modded/upgraded)?
@@nickstransmissions I’m sorry I didn’t specify. It’s a bone stock engine off a 2004 Cadillac Escalade LQ9 6.0 swapped in a 1982 C10. (No transmission) Nothing fancy. Just wanted something reliable to cruise around with the O’lady. I appreciate your quick response!
You're welcome and no worries...If you're wanting to keep your options to a 4L60E or 4L80E and plan on using a factory ECM + harness to control the trans, I'd go with whatever that harness and PCM was initially designed to control...Either trans would work in a DD/cruiser application (I'd not recommend any of the 6, 8 or 10 speeds simply due to greater level of complexity and operating costs relative to the 4-speeds).
Otherwise you can look at a 700R4 w/an adaptor plate for the TC as the Generation 3 small block (LSX family) used a different TC and bell housing, input shaft and pump for those engines compared to the legacy small block / big block Chevys. You'd have to research the specific steps that need to be taken to integrate it into the whole powertrain but many have done it.
If going with a 4L60E, I would do some basic upgrades to the unit so you prevent any issues once the truck is back on the road...
@@nickstransmissions Very informative! My best option that fit my application would be the 4L60E with a stage 3 performance upgrade. Keep it simple to a minimum. I value your opinion and once again, I appreciate your time!
Thanks.
You're welcome, Joey!
Where are you located
Hi George, I don't share my location on youtube but if you are looking for transmission services or to have something rebuilt, please reach out to me in a direct message via the Tahoeyukonforum.com...My user name on there is Nicktransmissions.
Just beat the crap out of that shaft 😅
Sometimes you have to beat them like they owe you lot's of money and refuse to pay!🤣