Hands down one of the greatest videos on the YT. I have watched it probably 25 times and built 2 transmissions along with it. I can’t thank you nearly enough for doing these vids. A real game changer that really saved my bacon in remote Alaska. The current tranny is my daily driver I’m about to put the pump bolts in, and the first one was my project truck I’ll be covering on another channel I’m starting out of inspiration from you and others covering my truck projects from engine builds to body fab. Kudos and thanks again!
Beyond happy that we were able to help!! You can thank us by subscribing and liking the video 😁 We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs ruclips.net/video/DPFRM2jOU4o/видео.html
I’m just over 3k miles since my rebuild and all seems good! Thanks again for the great video series. One thing I learned was I didn’t save myself anything by going with a cheaper rebuild kit. I ended up needing to order a lot of one off items and probably spent more than if I just bought the rebuild kit you suggested…and I spent more time waiting for every shipment. Thanks again!👍
I just want to say thank you for your 4l60e series of videos, they saved me a ton of money and frustration when I needed to rebuild mine after the forward sprag went out. Keep being awesome guys!
thank you for making such a good video. I'm 19 years old and I own a 2001 chevy Silverado and my transmission went out on me when I was coming home one day and I didn't know what to do so I started looking on how to rebuild a 4L60E transmission and I came across your video at first I was hesitant about rebuilding a transmission but by watching your video you gave me the confidence to rebuild my transmission I had never seen the inside of a transmission before so I ordered a stage 2 master rebuild kit I also ordered the reamer and the piston cause they needed to be replaced and I followed your video step by step and got everything installed into my transmission and got it all put together and installed today and it runs like a dream now thank you very much
I've been looking for this exact video for a while.. most guys go too quick or they get off in the weeds about mods and different kit options with every single part they install. I just needed a bone stock rebuild video and this is perfect. I appreciate you guys posting this because I'm about to build 3 of these and make some $$$! Thanks again!
Beyond happy that we were able to help!! You can thank us by subscribing and liking the video 😁 We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs ruclips.net/video/DPFRM2jOU4o/видео.html
Excellent video with straight to the point information! Three years strong on my first rebuild in my avalanche. Couldn't have done it without you!⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Great, the best I’ve seen so far, took their time where you didn’t have to go back and forth which I liked. Thank you guys, never would have made it without your video!
We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs ruclips.net/video/DPFRM2jOU4o/видео.html
We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs ruclips.net/video/DPFRM2jOU4o/видео.html
You guys are awesome. Thank you for making the 4L60E videos. Very well done, both in detail and presentation. I have successfully rebuilt my transmission following along to these videos. For anyone out there debating if they should take on a 4l60e rebuild…if you have the time and patience, DO IT…..just don’t forget. BAG AND TAG!!!!! The amount of parts is overwhelming at first, but they all fall into place easier than it seems.
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Dude... you should have been a brain surgeon or a heart surgeon. I know the type personally. Super thorough insures no mistakes. Awesome job. Convinced me to rebuild my own 4l60e. I worry about every single little thing and your video left nothing to worry about. Thanks for this super great video.
Thank you so much for the comment! Transmissions are very tedious with close tolerances, however, if you take your time you will have a very rewarding product and experience.
I had no idea what I was doing! I watched your videos and got a rebuild manual. I built my first one and it has been shifting/working really well. Learned alo I have since built 4 other 4l60e transmissions for a few of my family members!
@@dudewecanfixit question I have a 4l60e 4x4 in a 98 gmc jimmy(s10). I have a 4l80e 4x4 out of a 2001 chevy truck. Can I repin/wire it to run the 4l80e in place of the 4l60e? I also consider drive shafts and possible Trans crossmember may need mods
I don't know how the electronics compare, but if you dig around on some forums I bet someone has done it. There are also stand alone transmission controllers
This is handsdown the best breakdown video for the 4L60E. I have a question though. My 03 Escalade shift 2.3 and 3.4 look exactly like the ones in this video ( @ 1:48:41 ). However, I can't seem to find a new 2-3 valve anywhere that looks the same in design, even though all the sellers have so-called "2-3 and 3-4 4L60E" valves. They just look completely different. I'm concerned about putting one of these new ones that have a completely different form. My transmission threw a P0756 code and stayed in first gear, which led to me discovering that it wasn't the actual 2-3 solenoid, but the valve itself- it was stuck and would not move. Now I have the dilema of it getting stuck potentially again, even though I managed to get it out, without taking down the entire valve body off because I don't have a torque gun or rachet. when it's time to put it back on I just want to be able to have the valve go in and move around easy, and while putting it back in, you can feel that if I use a little more force to push it in, that it will get stuck again. Not to mention scratched, and also potentially scraping the bore hole itself. I've gone through 2 bottles of PB Blaster and 2 of WD-40, which 95% of it ended up all over my body , and 2 cans of compressed air cans lol. I'm waiting on some tools, but basically I need to clean that bore hole cautiously, with the valve body still attached from under the truck. Solenoids tested perfectly in Ohms and click sound with voltage. Shift valve 2-3, and 3-4 along with its shuttle, were cleaned using Scothbrite and trans fluid nicely, and inspected, and don't seem damaged. I think it's just that I can't see inside the bore hole, and get to cleaning it well- the fluid that was in there was nasty and almost completely black, so I know there is gunk and debri. It's just been a pain to try to get the valve out, and when I finally did, now the bore is super dirty and it's difficult to get a good angle to clean it. I'm basically waiting for a flexible nylon brush (like the ones to clean bottles or glass tubes), and a long drill bit accessory that lets you spin it from an angle and while its bent at a gentle low speed. I was advised against using brass or steel bristle ones, obviously. - I also have to be careful the metal of the brushes don't ding the inside of the bore, so I have to basically get it in there by hand, and hold the handle from touching the inner walls of bore, or just brush it by hand, flush the holes with fluid, blow it out with compressed air, and repeat this, until the valve can slide in clean. Each time I try, I also have to re-clean the valve, in case it picked up some deebri from the still-dirty bore hole. I wish there was a hone that is flexible and can be used at an abgle, to basically re-polish the inside of the bore nicely without taking off the valve body. I'm not an expert, and afraid of taking more bolts and pieces off wihtout the right tools. I'm about to lose my mind, and all I want to do is have a backup valve, atleast for the 2-3, because this procedure of cleaning the bore and testing to see if the valve glides, can also damage or start to scratch the shift valve- and the point is I can't find the 2-3 shift valve that looks like how mine actually is, and also just how it is in this video. Would you know why all sellers offer a different looking one? If I use one of these new ones, the cavity holes and specific fluid routes that my current valve regulates will not be the same ones if I buy these new valves. In other words, between my current valve and these on the market, where they have the fatter sections along them, they don't match up. Is that because there was an improvement made and I "should" use one of the new design ones? Any advice? I am really trying to avoid taking down the valve body, or that will be a completely new mission and track, and the only thing holding up the process from wrapping up is that stuck valve issue. Any suggestions would be godsent at this point! * You can see visually what I mean. Here is the supposed "4L60E 2-3 shift valve" that's being sold out there (www.amazon.com/Sonnax-HD-2-3-Shift-Valve/dp/B00BYG7S5E). And like the ones in your video, and in my truck, here's what the original ones that I took out actually looks like (www.2carpros.com/images/question_images/10191/original.gif) Notice in the diagram, it is part #368, and as you can see it's the 2-3 valve that goes with a shuttle along with shift solenoid B, and it has 5 "grooves" whereas the ones being sold out there only have 4. A completely different shape almost. What am I missing, or am I right in noticing a major difference? lol Thanks!
In your situation, I would recommend going to a local transmission shop and seeing if they have a spare or a core with the same valve they could sell or give you. Also, removing the valve body can be done with the transmission in place. Having the valve body on a work table would make it much easier to see if the bore is damaged and also to clean it. You can rent a torque wrench from your local automotive store like O'Reilly's to reinstall it. You will need new gaskets however.
Thanks for replying @@dudewecanfixit You know, funny thing, I fixed it myself. True DIY style, tho, but it's fixed. So, the mystery of the valve is: apparently, the valve that is sold everywhere as the current "2-3 shift valve for 4L60e tran" is actually fine to use, even tho you see it has one less notch (or where 2 would be in the old style, there is 1 long one now.) Supposedly, (and there's not just one source you can find this at- I had to do a LOT of tab-fu on my browser) my "old" valve's style presented problems that these new valves being sold "fix" with the new design. By blocking certain holes and pressure channels it improves performance, apparently, and works just fine without breaking anything. I was very concerned, so trust me, I LOOKED, and this is the case. As for the full fix, yeah the bore hole was very dirty. I used a combination of sprays like PB, WD, tran fluid, and air duster cans, to clean it (valve body still on) with high quality NYLON bristle brushes; like the ones to clean bottles or glass tubes. I bought sets, in an assortment, and there were size gurths from lollipop handle to as wide as the circumference of a penny. Carefully, and by bending the flexible handles at an angle, I would scrub the bore hole, one time only per brush, after rinses with the sprays. I'd get it in as strainght as possible, then straighten out the handle as much as do-able, as I pushed it inside. All the way to the back, then twist the brush as I pull it out, I'd scrub the hole like that. It took 10 brushed, because I was scared of re-using a brush, for the sake of not ripping a bristle off and getting that stuck in the bore hole. Finally, and THIS is really what did the trick, I had a magnetic tip pen, like the ones that retract like an old radio antenna. Luckily I could shrink it down to about 3" in length (exactly the amount of space I had from the enterance of the bore hole to a greasy obstruction of space) and slowly, holding it like a cigarette with one hand and with the other expanding it into the hole LOL yes I did this, I would gingerly drag it along the floor of the bore hole. Let me tell you, it scooped up a TON of metallic sludge that was so microscopic, you couldn't see it unless you pieced all the pieces together into like a drop, which the tip of the magnet picked up enough to form one DESTRUCTIVE drop of metallic sludge. I say "this did the trick" because in one of my attempts to put the old valve back in after a thorough cycle of the rinsing and blowing, the valve kinda got stuck again. After I used the magnet, it went in much smoother, and I was still hesistant to use the "new design" valve, which I already bought just in case. The old valve was a little dinged up and that was a factor. In the final cleansing, the new valve went in perfectly, and the shuttle, so did the solenoid. I only made the decision to use the new valve design for 2 reasons: one, out of necessity and in like "F-it" moment, just cause I wanted to get my truck out of where it was for a week. BUT, the more intelligent part of the decision, and second reason, was that I studied the valve body design REALLY intimately, and traced every valve channel that these new valves would be blocking or not blocking. After careful logical thinking, by analysing the fuid channels, nothing really was being affected other than Overrun, which would only be in a situation that I'd be hauling something on a hitch and in manual 3rd or 2nd, a situation I do not see myself ever in. What the new desigtn does is pretty much give it a "heavy duty" ability, by creating more pressure in one of the valleys. I don't know eactly, but something along those lines. What I mostly was looking for is if it blocked any critical functionality that didn't make sense to go through with. That was not the case after carefully studying the valve diagrams from the 4L60E 500-page service manual lol. Not only did I get the truck home, but I have never felt it more powerful and clean while shifting since I bought it in 2018! When in 2nd, you can really feel the torque right on the tip of your foot on the accelerator; the slightest push on the pedal and whooosh! Instant reaction and quick pickup power! I have never been happier, not just with the performance of the truck, but with the 'fixing it myself' thing. In the future, now that I know it well, when I have a chance and the proper tools, and the right time, I WILL DEFINITELY be playing with it more, and this time taking off the whole valve body, maybe even just buying a new one, and all the Sonnax upgrades for the springs and other valves, with new OEM solenoids. Crank case had a good amount of fluid in it. I thought I'd have to put all (almost) 11 liters in it, but was good with 2 gallons. Have 1/8 of a gallon still left after cautiously slowly getting her back up to full in cold and hot tests. No leaks (so far) running daily at almost 2 weeks now. I'm not pushing her hard. I'm just happy she's running again, and have learned to appreciate what I have more. Thanks! Your video was a HUGE part of the educational process, and a confidence booster!
Thank you so much for making this and the quality you did it in. I have been wanting to build my 4l60e and was scared. I used your video and just finished it about 2 hours ago and shifts like butter. Thanks for helping me with my confidence and by watching your video I was able to do a good job. You guys are awesome!
because of this awesome video i rebuilt my o6 chevy pu trans and it works perfectly. put a lot of upgrades in it to shift better and hold pressure while towing. worked the first time. thank you so much. saved me about 3500. at a shop. Watching again today because i did another just the pump and missed two little things. will try again . Awesome and thank you so much/.
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1:59:01 the lockup solenoid filter... The new harness has a solenoid that is black, and has no t-slot for the screen filter... so do you use the conical screen on the black solenoid. Whereas you show a tan solenoid and the filter fits into the t-slot. So the question is, on the black lockup solenoid, is the conical screen (which you show, but ignore) to be used?
I'm not 100% sure. Check to see if the new solenoid has a filter in it. If it does, you're good to go. If not, I would assume, but cannot verify, that the other conical filter would work on that style solenoid. I do apologize that I cannot verify because I have not had my hands on that style solenoid.
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Totally Amazing, Patience (that I need before I reconnect just the exterior wiring ) and Step-By Step!!! WOW!!! I have more YT videos than I can shake a stick at and they are all helping a former Computer Programmer enjoy getting an S10 fixed and running. HUGE THANKS to all of you!!!
My grandfather was chief engineer of GM's hydra-matics division and he and his team designed the 4l60,. He would have loved how well this video was made. I did as I am currently rebuilding one. Thank you for the best 4l60 video series out there! Grandpa would have really liked you guys.
Thank you so much! We appreciate the feedback. Your grandpa definitely helped design one of the most versatile and easy to repair transmissions on the market. Please subscribe and check out our new channel, homestead development!
@@dudewecanfixit Thank you, that's nice to hear. He had his hands in any tranny coming out of GM from the 50s on through the 70's I knew what he did when I was a kid in the 70's but I didn't realize the true significance and scope of such things then. What a gift it must have been to participate in those times. As I live off grid, I'm interested in your other channel too. Thanks again.
@@dudewecanfixit hey guys, update on the tranny rebuild. It was a total success. Super quiet and shifts like a dream. I did a ton of research but it was this video that caused me to say, " dude, I can fix it."
Awesome video, a clear step by step approach to rebuilding your trans vs some other videos out there which seem more like a refresher course for some guys
you all are the greatest! you helped me from start to finish. it took me a couple of times to get it right. but thanks to you both, I finally got it right. couldnt have done it without you. thank you so much!
I followed all the steps and everything was great but I had no reverse when I put it back. I had to pull the trans again and redo the pump stator rings, this is where the reverse magic happens apparently, I replaced the old rings and didn't have the proper tool to resize them once I got them on and tried to do it makeshift with hose clamps and a plastic sleeve wrapped around them to go in between, I compressed them too much and they were not making a good enough seal on the shaft. I pulled the pump and used the $40 Ring Buddy tool to resize them properly. I learned that if the pump goes in too easy on reassembly, something is wrong, if it goes in too hard, something is wrong and you will tear or nick the seal if you force it. Pay attention on this part guys. Also the input drum seals were the hardest part of the job really, a PITA to get that piston back in with both seals intact. I used some cable ties to shrink down the seal on the outside one then put it in the freezer for 20 minutes so it would hold that shape until it warmed up. I used a water bottle top cut down to size to put over the middle shaft for the inside one. The piston slipped right in. I tore a seal on the first attempt using the feeler gauge method so be careful either way. Overall great video.
How did you know the stator rings were causing your reverse problem? I’m in the process of rebuilding mine and already thinking to myself if something is wrong I’ll have no idea what the cause may be.
@@cjf3838 I went back in my head through each step and remember checking all my pistons with air before putting the pump back in, I also remember the pump being a little too easy to drop back in and knew I used a homebrew makeshift tool to compress the rings, watched a few people putting pumps back in on YT and knew I should have felt some resistance from the rings. It was an educated guess and when I put the actual tool on it after pulling it apart again, I knew immediately that was the issue because the play on the shaft was noticeable.
I am going to be doing a rebuild step by step using your videos for a 2008 Tahoe 4L60 that has 250k miles on it. I lost 3rd and 4th.. and no check engine codes for transmission. But I have a question. At about 1:47:30 you started to talk about the valve body and the torque converter regulator valve. You said in most cases that after 100k miles on the valve body the bore is going to be reamed out and the torque regulator valve would not be doing it’s job correctly, and you will get a check engine code. And also that you would have to get the bore reamed and use the Sonnax Oversized Torque Converter regulator vale kit. Did you mean to say that the bore would most likely be damaged over 100k miles and would need to be reamed out? Can I get some clarity because you reused yours and I’d like to do the same because reaming seems to be a pretty expensive process? Thanks for your video's
It is a common problem and is recommended to have the oversized valve installed to guarantee you won't have any issues. If you were not having issues before, it may be acceptable to skip the upgrade. If you can afford it though, I would recommend it. I think the kit comes with the tool and a few valves for around $200 The transmission in this vehicle had the same issue as yours. Lost third and fourth gear. I do not think we replaced the valve and it has been fine for a few years now.
I think it'll be fine. Ideally, they would be spotless, but if you cleaned them up, the ATF should do the rest. Automatic transmission fluid has a lot of detergents in it, hence why the inside of the transmission is so clean. It should finish cleaning any small particles that you missed and keep them suspended in the fluid. Just make sure to change the fluid every 30k miles
@@dudewecanfixit mine spit all the fluid out when I started it. I know you waited 10 to 15 minutes. I waited 30. And it still spits out. Idk what to do
This was very useful, you guys helped me build 2 4l60e transmission's.. keep up with the word out there. You're doing a lot for people. Keep it going!!!
DO NOT drive the pump bushing out from the INSIDE! There's a lip in the pump! You must drive the bushing from the outside towards the inside to remove it and install the new one from the inside until it reaches the lip.
@@BobbyBaran There is a lip cast into the housing, if you look closely you'll see it, it prevents the bushing from working its way out of the pump... with the seal removed you should see it. I took a pic but have nowhere to post it with ease.
Excellent video. I have a 95 corvette with the one piece case will the arrangement and internal components be the same as the one you did in this video?
I used a large Crescent on the input drum around the shaft then 2 large clamps to compress input drum cage so feet of clamps on Crescent then the threaded part on the cage 👍
I stripped my sunshell during a hard acceleration. This video walked me through everything to get my transmission rebuilt. I decided to upgrade some of the components while I was at it. I installed a monster sun shell, sonax pinless accumulator pistons, zpack clutches, transgo shift kit, Corvett servo and high stall converter. I have it installed and is working great. Feels better then before. If driving casually it has very soft shifts that you can't feel but if you get on the gas the shifts get much firmer and faster. The only issue I have is my shifter display is acting a little weird and the column feels kinda sloppy in park. I'm sure a simple adjustment of the shifter cable or neutral safety switch will correct it. Feeling pretty happy right now. Thank you guys for making such a thorough video.
@dudewecanfixit I tried adjusting it, then I replaced it twice with no improvement. It turned out being a broken wire on one of the harnesses that plug into the neutral safety switch. Fixed the wire and everything is working perfectly now. Thanks again.
You are absolutely the best. I have never seen the inside of a transmission and I got a used 94 4l60e. I want to do a complete rebuild. I was wondering if you could recommend the best kit to do this. Thank you
Thanks a million I never even had 1 apart now just gotter dun. I had to use some shim stock to get one of the pistons in but other than that I went step by step with no problem.
2:06:11 Hey Anthony question how’s this transmission holding up To this date with the parts and rebuild kit that you got for this build I started to tear down mine and I want to see if I will go this route I love watching your videos especially the LS 5.3 Head Gaskets one’s it gave me the confidence to do the ones in my truck and now I’m working on my other truck 4l60e that needs work with the 3/4 burnt clutch pack Thanks bro keep up the good work.
Thank you again! I just replaced my broken sunshell. I put my trans together and noticed my input shaft play has almost no play at all. I can turn the shaft by hand but I have almost no play at all. Is this an issue or can I install the transmission?
Just wanted to say a big thank you on these videos. After watching them many times I have rebuilt mine. I am at a stand still waiting on a 1-2 accumulator spring. It’s been fun with a slight headache lol. Thanks again
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@@Gmt400 thank you! Ivalmist got the tranny dropped i will start by taking it apart and see how confusing it is lol im just a weekend wrencher reboaced several engines but ner opened a tranny.
at 1:26 I put mine in until it will not drop any lower. It feels fully seated in. However, the top drum is no longer touching the thrust bearing by just a little bit. Now it IS sitting on the new hardened sun shell so it is as far in as it will go. Is this still correct or should that very top drum still touch the thrust washer and my aftermarket hardened "the beast" sun shell have a defect?
1:28:26 I torqued down my pump and now I don't have enough space for the seal. Did I miss something or should I loosen it up to make room for seal then torque down the bolts?
My pump doesnt have a seal around it. The case has a seal. Figured it out just in case anyone has this question. I drive 2005 4wd tahoe, with np246 rear transfer case.
I think this is well a explained tutorial. If you have the slightest bit of mechanical knowledge I believe this video is a huge help. Especially for the guys that don't have PROPER TOOLS. YOU KNOW THE TYPE..THE ONES LIKE YOU. THE ONES THAT DONT WANT TO GO SPEND HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS ON SPECIALTY TOOLS ONLY TO NEVER USE THEM AGAIN. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO. Im doing my transmission this weekend..fingers crossed and praying it goes well ..
Great video guys. Do you happen to have the measurements of the homemade tool you made to compress the spring packs. Id like to get one made so its ready for when i start my rebuild? thanks
I noticed you did not ream out the bore and put oversized torque converter regulator valve in. I am hesitant to do this as well (I have 05 Suburban) due to the $80 specialty tool. I did not have the 1870 code before, and am wondering how critical this replacement is?
My 1997 GMC 1500 5.7 liter vortec 4l60e transmission 12 years ago was rebuilt and had a transgo shift kit and corvette servo up grade.For instance if I was to order a rebuild kit would the one that you used in this video be okay for me to order?
I know the vid is 2 years old but I just wanna say thank you for such a good video, I was able to rebuild my 4L60 flawlessly by following your vid. Thanks again
Thank you for your awesome step by step assembly and wear check instructions. Make it look so easy. Right tools are a must. This video was a life saver. Took me 20 minutes to find a clip ring plier that would pull output shaft ring. my case was worn so couldnt get oneway/silencer out easily.Took hour to find tools to twist oneway around against silencer enough to pull oneway out. So nice to pop oneway back in the case despite the silencer. Case is worn a bit but its not going to be a drag machine or wall climber truck.
Beyond happy that we were able to help!! You can thank us by subscribing and liking the video 😁 We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs ruclips.net/video/DPFRM2jOU4o/видео.html
Not fully rebuilding mine but I am replacing drum assembly and major seals and gasket. I dropped a check ball in one of the holes and one somewhere else. I also forgot where they go. 1. where can I find new ones 2. is there a diagram anywhere showing where the check balls seat.
Awesome video, thanks. I ran across it while trying to find out if the internal components can be swapped from a first generation one piece case to a second generation 2 piece case. The first gen one piece case on my 97 suburban got the threads of the bottom cooling line cracked and i have a 2 piece case from a 97 Blazer to which I plan to swap the internals of my old tranny, which was working good when I broke the threads. I know the 4 bolt tail adaptor to the transfer case is different, as the second generation tail has 6 bolts. Thanks for your input.
@@dudewecanfixit I don't know just yet, I already took apart the Blazer tranny, which looked quite good except for some rust in the valves of the valve body. I soaked the whole body on tranny fluid (which is an amazing cleaner by the way) and was able to get the valves out. Meanwhile, I bought a tranny rebuild kit and will rebuild this one using the valve body and the torque converter from the original tranny. I have been told that the internal components from 1996-1999 are interchangeable, will post the answer when I get to the actual swap.
@@dudewecanfixit hey, I've got to complement you. I've watched numerous videos on the 4l60e rebuild and yours was the only one that showed the simple check on the 3-4 ball valve. 👍 This was one of my concerns about taking on this project, as a shade tree-er....do 99% right and there's that one thing that's overlooked, requiring me to pull the tranny out a second time. Right on brother, thanks for sharing. One more thing, any recommendations on the second gear reem. Effin sonnex wants almost $200 for their reemer, ffs.
Thank you. Just took for the test drive. 06 chevy half ton 4x4. First time doing it and it works great. You saved me 3700.00 wow. Yhe only thing I purchased were some small c clamps to remove the last spring pack in the tail shaft. Hope it lasts. Thanks again. Ginna do my allison now. Awesome video.
As a follow up I found it was shifting soft. So I pulled the valve body off and found the gasket had moved and covered some of the small holes. At the same time I put a stage 1 transgo it in it and a corvette servo. Wow works perfect. Thanks again.
@@bbay1977 I did the stage 4 kit from a company out of Vegas . useed stock sunger it was ok. Put in 5 cylinoids and a trans go shift kit. The cost was around 700. I did all yhe work but some pressed bushings were fone at a shop for 100.
@@douglasmueller4684 Oh okay thanks for the reply. So I see someone can save some cash but not a whole lot really. I haven't really got any good prices on transmissions. I checked my fluid again today and it did look burnt, so i was going to change the fluid and filter and I hope that fixes it.my issue is that I own a 2002 camaro and no lift 😆. Even changing the filter and fluid will be a pain to change. I do have some ramps, but if that doesn't fix my issue then I will have to see if i can push it off the ramps. Thanks
@@bbay1977 you can shop around and their are stock kits in the 250 to 300 range. The shops installed to were between 2800 and 4200 to rebuild it. Good luck and hope you get it to work.
Okay so I've got to the servo install. For some reason it won't seat all the way down for me to put the snap ring on. What could be causing it not to seat all the way in??? Any help would definitely be appreciated. This video made it simple to rebuild my 4l60e
My 3rd and 4th clutch plate stack out of a 2011 Silverado 1500 with a 4L60/65 only had 5 steels and 6 frictions and my final gap is much bigger than yours. Is this ok? I see that they can be model specific. @video time 50:06. I tried fitting a worn out steel plus the extra friction I got and I would have to compressing the final spacer a lot to fit the retaining ring.
I would not force anything in there, it should have a small amount of play. I think there were some revisions in the transmissions in 2009. Sorry, but I'm not certain how your 2011 is set up. I would see how many of each came out and replace with the same number of each. But, you need to find someone with more experience on the newer models.
Is the yellow trans pump seal the sticks out stay on the outside or does it slide down into the transmission housing. Because mine stayed on the outside instead of going in
what kit exactly i have to order for my 4L60e 1999 s10 ? my truck stop working in Spain and cant get the transmission from state , decided to rebuild it , the problem is my truck wont change the gear from 3 to 4 thanks for great video .
Thanks for the very detailed and informative video. Im highly confident in rebuilding my 60e for my 99 Camaro Z28. I was always hesitant up until now I really appreciate you guys!!
I just re-installed transmission, and now it does not try to shift to 3rd gear. 1995 Suburban 315k miles I took on the rebuild because I lost 3rd gear and just like everything says the 3-4 clutch pack was fried. I'm sure since it used to try and shift to 3rd, this change is due to a mistake I made. Any recommendation on where to look? Absolutely loved the video and appreciate all the good information, thank you for making it.
Just in case it helps someone else, the check ball in the case they talk about checking was leaking. (I missed checking this my first time thru.) I tapped it with a hammer to seat, a bit of metal came out and then it sealed. 2,000 miles in and all is well.
I can’t find anywhere that talks about it, is the case silencer needed? I just got my trans back in pieces from my builder and working on putting it back together and cannot find the case silencer
I have a 4l60e on my 2005 Yukon and I’m getting some drips out the yoke weep hole by the ujoint. Upon removal of the housing I noticed I didn’t have the sleeve with oring, shouldn’t it be in there since my slip yoke has that hole on it? If not, should/could I add the sleeve?
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Here is one of our newer videos! ruclips.net/video/eT_slcxBV1Q/видео.html
This video gave me the confidence to take my transmission to someone to rebuild it.
Lol, at least now you know.
Lmao best comment,
Lol
I did my own, wasn’t bad.. great video
That's fantastic! Good job
This video series walked my son and I through our first 4L60E rebuild. Excellent step by step, our thanks!
I'm glad y'all enjoyed it!
Did it work?
👆🏼 What he said.. ?
How many times u have to ripe her down and put er back together again before the shit worked again?
Still working?
Hands down one of the greatest videos on the YT. I have watched it probably 25 times and built 2 transmissions along with it. I can’t thank you nearly enough for doing these vids. A real game changer that really saved my bacon in remote Alaska. The current tranny is my daily driver I’m about to put the pump bolts in, and the first one was my project truck I’ll be covering on another channel I’m starting out of inspiration from you and others covering my truck projects from engine builds to body fab. Kudos and thanks again!
That's amazing! Thanks for sharing your story, it is very inspiring to me!
Beyond happy that we were able to help!! You can thank us by subscribing and liking the video 😁
We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs
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I'm guessing that your 2 rebuilds went well?
I’m just over 3k miles since my rebuild and all seems good! Thanks again for the great video series. One thing I learned was I didn’t save myself anything by going with a cheaper rebuild kit. I ended up needing to order a lot of one off items and probably spent more than if I just bought the rebuild kit you suggested…and I spent more time waiting for every shipment. Thanks again!👍
Great point!
I just want to say thank you for your 4l60e series of videos, they saved me a ton of money and frustration when I needed to rebuild mine after the forward sprag went out. Keep being awesome guys!
This is great! Thanks for the comment!
Tell me, when your forward sprag went out was it sudden and then did you only have reverse?
thank you for making such a good video. I'm 19 years old and I own a 2001 chevy Silverado and my transmission went out on me when I was coming home one day and I didn't know what to do so I started looking on how to rebuild a 4L60E transmission and I came across your video at first I was hesitant about rebuilding a transmission but by watching your video you gave me the confidence to rebuild my transmission I had never seen the inside of a transmission before so I ordered a stage 2 master rebuild kit I also ordered the reamer and the piston cause they needed to be replaced and I followed your video step by step and got everything installed into my transmission and got it all put together and installed today and it runs like a dream now thank you very much
Wow, that's fantastic! Good job!
I love sharing knowledge and hearing success stories.
Your attitude is very welcome and appreciated. Other youtuvers are more into preaching rather than showing.
Thanks!
I've been looking for this exact video for a while.. most guys go too quick or they get off in the weeds about mods and different kit options with every single part they install. I just needed a bone stock rebuild video and this is perfect. I appreciate you guys posting this because I'm about to build 3 of these and make some $$$! Thanks again!
That's awesome! We appreciate the comment and are glad that this video is useful for you
I loved watching this video. You did a wonderful job of describing everything to look for during assembly. Thank you so much for making this video.
Thank you and you're welcome! Please subscribe to our channel.
Beyond happy that we were able to help!! You can thank us by subscribing and liking the video 😁
We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs
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Excellent video with straight to the point information! Three years strong on my first rebuild in my avalanche. Couldn't have done it without you!⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Thanks awesome! Congratulations!
Great, the best I’ve seen so far, took their time where you didn’t have to go back and forth which I liked. Thank you guys, never would have made it without your video!
Thank you so much! Please subscribe to our channel for future videos
We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs
ruclips.net/video/DPFRM2jOU4o/видео.html
We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs
ruclips.net/video/DPFRM2jOU4o/видео.html
5
You guys are awesome. Thank you for making the 4L60E videos. Very well done, both in detail and presentation. I have successfully rebuilt my transmission following along to these videos. For anyone out there debating if they should take on a 4l60e rebuild…if you have the time and patience, DO IT…..just don’t forget. BAG AND TAG!!!!! The amount of parts is overwhelming at first, but they all fall into place easier than it seems.
Glad to hear it worked out for you! Bag and tag is key!
the best rebuild ...... everything in the kit were been used and cleaned. no shortcuts.... awesome!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks, we try to make the best comprehensive instructional videos!
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I like the fact that you are using a clean surface during assembly. Also, thanks for the clear narrative without hoped intonation or vendor badgering.
We appreciate the feedback. We do our best to be thorough and professional
Dude... you should have been a brain surgeon or a heart surgeon. I know the type personally. Super thorough insures no mistakes. Awesome job. Convinced me to rebuild my own 4l60e. I worry about every single little thing and your video left nothing to worry about. Thanks for this super great video.
Thank you so much for the comment! Transmissions are very tedious with close tolerances, however, if you take your time you will have a very rewarding product and experience.
I’m 21 years old and watching this video gave me confidence to rebuild my slipping 4L60e transmission on my 03 Silverado 5.3
That's great! You will definitely get to know your truck much better
How did that go? I have a 98’ c5 corvette and I might rebuild it
I had no idea what I was doing! I watched your videos and got a rebuild manual. I built my first one and it has been shifting/working really well. Learned alo I have since built 4 other 4l60e transmissions for a few of my family members!
We are stoked to hear that we were able to help!!! Thank you for watching and following along 😁
@@dudewecanfixit question I have a 4l60e 4x4 in a 98 gmc jimmy(s10). I have a 4l80e 4x4 out of a 2001 chevy truck. Can I repin/wire it to run the 4l80e in place of the 4l60e? I also consider drive shafts and possible Trans crossmember may need mods
I don't know how the electronics compare, but if you dig around on some forums I bet someone has done it.
There are also stand alone transmission controllers
This is handsdown the best breakdown video for the 4L60E. I have a question though. My 03 Escalade shift 2.3 and 3.4 look exactly like the ones in this video ( @ 1:48:41 ). However, I can't seem to find a new 2-3 valve anywhere that looks the same in design, even though all the sellers have so-called "2-3 and 3-4 4L60E" valves. They just look completely different. I'm concerned about putting one of these new ones that have a completely different form.
My transmission threw a P0756 code and stayed in first gear, which led to me discovering that it wasn't the actual 2-3 solenoid, but the valve itself- it was stuck and would not move. Now I have the dilema of it getting stuck potentially again, even though I managed to get it out, without taking down the entire valve body off because I don't have a torque gun or rachet. when it's time to put it back on
I just want to be able to have the valve go in and move around easy, and while putting it back in, you can feel that if I use a little more force to push it in, that it will get stuck again. Not to mention scratched, and also potentially scraping the bore hole itself. I've gone through 2 bottles of PB Blaster and 2 of WD-40, which 95% of it ended up all over my body , and 2 cans of compressed air cans lol.
I'm waiting on some tools, but basically I need to clean that bore hole cautiously, with the valve body still attached from under the truck. Solenoids tested perfectly in Ohms and click sound with voltage. Shift valve 2-3, and 3-4 along with its shuttle, were cleaned using Scothbrite and trans fluid nicely, and inspected, and don't seem damaged. I think it's just that I can't see inside the bore hole, and get to cleaning it well- the fluid that was in there was nasty and almost completely black, so I know there is gunk and debri. It's just been a pain to try to get the valve out, and when I finally did, now the bore is super dirty and it's difficult to get a good angle to clean it.
I'm basically waiting for a flexible nylon brush (like the ones to clean bottles or glass tubes), and a long drill bit accessory that lets you spin it from an angle and while its bent at a gentle low speed. I was advised against using brass or steel bristle ones, obviously.
- I also have to be careful the metal of the brushes don't ding the inside of the bore, so I have to basically get it in there by hand, and hold the handle from touching the inner walls of bore, or just brush it by hand, flush the holes with fluid, blow it out with compressed air, and repeat this, until the valve can slide in clean. Each time I try, I also have to re-clean the valve, in case it picked up some deebri from the still-dirty bore hole. I wish there was a hone that is flexible and can be used at an abgle, to basically re-polish the inside of the bore nicely without taking off the valve body. I'm not an expert, and afraid of taking more bolts and pieces off wihtout the right tools.
I'm about to lose my mind, and all I want to do is have a backup valve, atleast for the 2-3, because this procedure of cleaning the bore and testing to see if the valve glides, can also damage or start to scratch the shift valve- and the point is I can't find the 2-3 shift valve that looks like how mine actually is, and also just how it is in this video.
Would you know why all sellers offer a different looking one? If I use one of these new ones, the cavity holes and specific fluid routes that my current valve regulates will not be the same ones if I buy these new valves. In other words, between my current valve and these on the market, where they have the fatter sections along them, they don't match up. Is that because there was an improvement made and I "should" use one of the new design ones? Any advice?
I am really trying to avoid taking down the valve body, or that will be a completely new mission and track, and the only thing holding up the process from wrapping up is that stuck valve issue. Any suggestions would be godsent at this point!
* You can see visually what I mean. Here is the supposed "4L60E 2-3 shift valve" that's being sold out there (www.amazon.com/Sonnax-HD-2-3-Shift-Valve/dp/B00BYG7S5E).
And like the ones in your video, and in my truck, here's what the original ones that I took out actually looks like (www.2carpros.com/images/question_images/10191/original.gif)
Notice in the diagram, it is part #368, and as you can see it's the 2-3 valve that goes with a shuttle along with shift solenoid B, and it has 5 "grooves" whereas the ones being sold out there only have 4. A completely different shape almost. What am I missing, or am I right in noticing a major difference? lol
Thanks!
In your situation, I would recommend going to a local transmission shop and seeing if they have a spare or a core with the same valve they could sell or give you.
Also, removing the valve body can be done with the transmission in place. Having the valve body on a work table would make it much easier to see if the bore is damaged and also to clean it. You can rent a torque wrench from your local automotive store like O'Reilly's to reinstall it. You will need new gaskets however.
Thanks for replying @@dudewecanfixit You know, funny thing, I fixed it myself. True DIY style, tho, but it's fixed.
So, the mystery of the valve is: apparently, the valve that is sold everywhere as the current "2-3 shift valve for 4L60e tran" is actually fine to use, even tho you see it has one less notch (or where 2 would be in the old style, there is 1 long one now.)
Supposedly, (and there's not just one source you can find this at- I had to do a LOT of tab-fu on my browser) my "old" valve's style presented problems that these new valves being sold "fix" with the new design. By blocking certain holes and pressure channels it improves performance, apparently, and works just fine without breaking anything. I was very concerned, so trust me, I LOOKED, and this is the case.
As for the full fix, yeah the bore hole was very dirty. I used a combination of sprays like PB, WD, tran fluid, and air duster cans, to clean it (valve body still on) with high quality NYLON bristle brushes; like the ones to clean bottles or glass tubes. I bought sets, in an assortment, and there were size gurths from lollipop handle to as wide as the circumference of a penny.
Carefully, and by bending the flexible handles at an angle, I would scrub the bore hole, one time only per brush, after rinses with the sprays. I'd get it in as strainght as possible, then straighten out the handle as much as do-able, as I pushed it inside. All the way to the back, then twist the brush as I pull it out, I'd scrub the hole like that. It took 10 brushed, because I was scared of re-using a brush, for the sake of not ripping a bristle off and getting that stuck in the bore hole. Finally, and THIS is really what did the trick, I had a magnetic tip pen, like the ones that retract like an old radio antenna. Luckily I could shrink it down to about 3" in length (exactly the amount of space I had from the enterance of the bore hole to a greasy obstruction of space) and slowly, holding it like a cigarette with one hand and with the other expanding it into the hole LOL yes I did this, I would gingerly drag it along the floor of the bore hole. Let me tell you, it scooped up a TON of metallic sludge that was so microscopic, you couldn't see it unless you pieced all the pieces together into like a drop, which the tip of the magnet picked up enough to form one DESTRUCTIVE drop of metallic sludge.
I say "this did the trick" because in one of my attempts to put the old valve back in after a thorough cycle of the rinsing and blowing, the valve kinda got stuck again.
After I used the magnet, it went in much smoother, and I was still hesistant to use the "new design" valve, which I already bought just in case. The old valve was a little dinged up and that was a factor.
In the final cleansing, the new valve went in perfectly, and the shuttle, so did the solenoid.
I only made the decision to use the new valve design for 2 reasons: one, out of necessity and in like "F-it" moment, just cause I wanted to get my truck out of where it was for a week. BUT, the more intelligent part of the decision, and second reason, was that I studied the valve body design REALLY intimately, and traced every valve channel that these new valves would be blocking or not blocking. After careful logical thinking, by analysing the fuid channels, nothing really was being affected other than Overrun, which would only be in a situation that I'd be hauling something on a hitch and in manual 3rd or 2nd, a situation I do not see myself ever in. What the new desigtn does is pretty much give it a "heavy duty" ability, by creating more pressure in one of the valleys. I don't know eactly, but something along those lines. What I mostly was looking for is if it blocked any critical functionality that didn't make sense to go through with. That was not the case after carefully studying the valve diagrams from the 4L60E 500-page service manual lol.
Not only did I get the truck home, but I have never felt it more powerful and clean while shifting since I bought it in 2018! When in 2nd, you can really feel the torque right on the tip of your foot on the accelerator; the slightest push on the pedal and whooosh! Instant reaction and quick pickup power!
I have never been happier, not just with the performance of the truck, but with the 'fixing it myself' thing.
In the future, now that I know it well, when I have a chance and the proper tools, and the right time, I WILL DEFINITELY be playing with it more, and this time taking off the whole valve body, maybe even just buying a new one, and all the Sonnax upgrades for the springs and other valves, with new OEM solenoids. Crank case had a good amount of fluid in it. I thought I'd have to put all (almost) 11 liters in it, but was good with 2 gallons. Have 1/8 of a gallon still left after cautiously slowly getting her back up to full in cold and hot tests.
No leaks (so far) running daily at almost 2 weeks now. I'm not pushing her hard. I'm just happy she's running again, and have learned to appreciate what I have more.
Thanks! Your video was a HUGE part of the educational process, and a confidence booster!
Thank you so much for making this and the quality you did it in. I have been wanting to build my 4l60e and was scared. I used your video and just finished it about 2 hours ago and shifts like butter. Thanks for helping me with my confidence and by watching your video I was able to do a good job. You guys are awesome!
Thanks, That's fantastic to hear! I'm glad you were able to do it yourself
@@dudewecanfixit where did you get the rebuilt kit?
95 k1500 here with no third or fourth gear.🤔
Transmission bench.com
@@dudewecanfixit 👍
because of this awesome video i rebuilt my o6 chevy pu trans and it works perfectly. put a lot of upgrades in it to shift better and hold pressure while towing. worked the first time. thank you so much. saved me about 3500. at a shop. Watching again today because i did another just the pump and missed two little things. will try again . Awesome and thank you so much/.
That's great! I'm glad you found our video and we were able to help!
Probably one of the most informative videos I've watched. Make sure to fill the torque converter before installing it.
Thanks! Torque converters come pre-lubricated, but I do like to put some fluid in them before install.
We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs
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1:59:01 the lockup solenoid filter... The new harness has a solenoid that is black, and has no t-slot for the screen filter... so do you use the conical screen on the black solenoid. Whereas you show a tan solenoid and the filter fits into the t-slot.
So the question is, on the black lockup solenoid, is the conical screen (which you show, but ignore) to be used?
I'm not 100% sure. Check to see if the new solenoid has a filter in it. If it does, you're good to go. If not, I would assume, but cannot verify, that the other conical filter would work on that style solenoid.
I do apologize that I cannot verify because I have not had my hands on that style solenoid.
Awesome video the best and most detailed video iv have seen on this trans.. thank you for taking time to share!!
Thank you for the comment! We love to hear feedback!
We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs
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Totally Amazing, Patience (that I need before I reconnect just the exterior wiring ) and Step-By Step!!! WOW!!! I have more YT videos than I can shake a stick at and they are all helping a former Computer Programmer enjoy getting an S10 fixed and running. HUGE THANKS to all of you!!!
You can do it!
My grandfather was chief engineer of GM's hydra-matics division and he and his team designed the 4l60,. He would have loved how well this video was made. I did as I am currently rebuilding one. Thank you for the best 4l60 video series out there! Grandpa would have really liked you guys.
Thank you so much! We appreciate the feedback. Your grandpa definitely helped design one of the most versatile and easy to repair transmissions on the market.
Please subscribe and check out our new channel, homestead development!
@@dudewecanfixit Thank you, that's nice to hear. He had his hands in any tranny coming out of GM from the 50s on through the 70's I knew what he did when I was a kid in the 70's but I didn't realize the true significance and scope of such things then. What a gift it must have been to participate in those times. As I live off grid, I'm interested in your other channel too. Thanks again.
Awesome, I hope you find much more information and entertainment from our videos to come.
@@dudewecanfixit hey guys, update on the tranny rebuild. It was a total success. Super quiet and shifts like a dream. I did a ton of research but it was this video that caused me to say, " dude, I can fix it."
That's great to hear!
I'm glad we could help make it a reality!
Do you know the part numbers for the O-rings from 2:06:00 to 2:08:00 ?
I do not know the part numbers
Awesome video, a clear step by step approach to rebuilding your trans vs some other videos out there which seem more like a refresher course for some guys
Thanks, I try to make complete videos that have everything you need in one place
you all are the greatest! you helped me from start to finish. it took me a couple of times to get it right. but thanks to you both, I finally got it right. couldnt have done it without you. thank you so much!
That's awesome! We're glad to hear it! Thanks for leaving some feedback
What did you struggle with
@@williamdon3442 I couldn't quit breaking the Teflon seals
I followed all the steps and everything was great but I had no reverse when I put it back. I had to pull the trans again and redo the pump stator rings, this is where the reverse magic happens apparently, I replaced the old rings and didn't have the proper tool to resize them once I got them on and tried to do it makeshift with hose clamps and a plastic sleeve wrapped around them to go in between, I compressed them too much and they were not making a good enough seal on the shaft. I pulled the pump and used the $40 Ring Buddy tool to resize them properly. I learned that if the pump goes in too easy on reassembly, something is wrong, if it goes in too hard, something is wrong and you will tear or nick the seal if you force it. Pay attention on this part guys. Also the input drum seals were the hardest part of the job really, a PITA to get that piston back in with both seals intact. I used some cable ties to shrink down the seal on the outside one then put it in the freezer for 20 minutes so it would hold that shape until it warmed up. I used a water bottle top cut down to size to put over the middle shaft for the inside one. The piston slipped right in. I tore a seal on the first attempt using the feeler gauge method so be careful either way. Overall great video.
Yes, those piston rings are a PITA. Thank you for following up on your diagnosis
@@dudewecanfixit is pita just another name of a lip installer removal tool
@@barryr0676 yes it's a pain in the ass
How did you know the stator rings were causing your reverse problem? I’m in the process of rebuilding mine and already thinking to myself if something is wrong I’ll have no idea what the cause may be.
@@cjf3838 I went back in my head through each step and remember checking all my pistons with air before putting the pump back in, I also remember the pump being a little too easy to drop back in and knew I used a homebrew makeshift tool to compress the rings, watched a few people putting pumps back in on YT and knew I should have felt some resistance from the rings. It was an educated guess and when I put the actual tool on it after pulling it apart again, I knew immediately that was the issue because the play on the shaft was noticeable.
I am going to be doing a rebuild step by step using your videos for a 2008 Tahoe 4L60 that has 250k miles on it. I lost 3rd and 4th.. and no check engine codes for transmission.
But I have a question. At about 1:47:30 you started to talk about the valve body and the torque converter regulator valve.
You said in most cases that after 100k miles on the valve body the bore is going to be reamed out and the torque regulator valve would not be doing it’s job correctly, and you will get a check engine code. And also that you would have to get the bore reamed and use the Sonnax Oversized Torque Converter regulator vale kit.
Did you mean to say that the bore would most likely be damaged over 100k miles and would need to be reamed out? Can I get some clarity because you reused yours and I’d like to do the same because reaming seems to be a pretty expensive process? Thanks for your video's
It is a common problem and is recommended to have the oversized valve installed to guarantee you won't have any issues.
If you were not having issues before, it may be acceptable to skip the upgrade. If you can afford it though, I would recommend it. I think the kit comes with the tool and a few valves for around $200
The transmission in this vehicle had the same issue as yours. Lost third and fourth gear. I do not think we replaced the valve and it has been fine for a few years now.
This video is absolutely priceless! Thank you guys for this education man seriously!!
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Please show you support and subscribe to our channel
@@dudewecanfixit already done 👍🏻. Can’t wait to rebuild this transmission now thanks to you? Thanks for the videos!
No problem, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
What kind of parts washer do you guys use with mineral spirits? All the 3.5 gallon washers i see say not to use mineral spirits. Thanks for the video!
Mine is a cheap one from harbor freight
@@dudewecanfixit Thanks for the reply
This video gave me the confidence to take my transmission apart and rebuild it myself. Thanks alot guys🙌👏💯💪💯💯👏👏🙌🙏
So happy we were able to help you! You can help us by subscribing and liking the video 😁 we appreciate you
This guy is excellent. Does a great job at explaining step by step details.
I appreciate that!
What kit was used?
I got the kit from transmissionbench.com
Fantastic video. It was a huge help getting my transmission rebuilt for my 98 Corvette. Excellent work, gents!
Happy we were able to help! Love hearing such positive feedback. Thank you!
I just built my 4l60e with some upgrades using this video. Thank you!
That's great! I'm glad I could help!
@@dudewecanfixit quick question. I got a little but of dust on some of my clutches and I cleaned them as good as could. You think it'll be ok?
I think it'll be fine. Ideally, they would be spotless, but if you cleaned them up, the ATF should do the rest. Automatic transmission fluid has a lot of detergents in it, hence why the inside of the transmission is so clean. It should finish cleaning any small particles that you missed and keep them suspended in the fluid. Just make sure to change the fluid every 30k miles
@@dudewecanfixit mine spit all the fluid out when I started it. I know you waited 10 to 15 minutes. I waited 30. And it still spits out. Idk what to do
Where is the fluid coming out at?
This was very useful, you guys helped me build 2 4l60e transmission's.. keep up with the word out there. You're doing a lot for people. Keep it going!!!
Thanks! I appreciate the thoughtful comment!
Fantastic video guys! I think I’m gonna give it a try
You can do it!
The most thorough video I have ever seen. They really went into detail with every step.
Thank you for the comment, I hope that our videos are very useful for you!
What a great video, thank you. Keep up the good work.
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Great job!! I have a 1992, is the rebuild significantly different? Is there a video to guide me?
If it is a 4l60, it should be very similar
DO NOT drive the pump bushing out from the INSIDE! There's a lip in the pump! You must drive the bushing from the outside towards the inside to remove it and install the new one from the inside until it reaches the lip.
Are you sure? In the video he beat it from the inside out just fine
@@BobbyBaran There is a lip cast into the housing, if you look closely you'll see it, it prevents the bushing from working its way out of the pump... with the seal removed you should see it. I took a pic but have nowhere to post it with ease.
Absolutely the most through and educational video I have ever watched! Excellent delivery and visual process start to finish. Thank you for sharing .
I'm glad you find this to be useful and I appreciate you taking the time to comment
Amazing video!
Excellent video. I have a 95 corvette with the one piece case will the arrangement and internal components be the same as the one you did in this video?
I'm not sure.
May need to ask a Corvette forum
Dat Shirt Raw 💯
Thanks!
This video gave me the confidence to say dude we can fix it our selves for my 4l60 rebuild
Awesome! You can fix it!
I used a large Crescent on the input drum around the shaft then 2 large clamps to compress input drum cage so feet of clamps on Crescent then the threaded part on the cage 👍
Me ciento muy contento y agradecido por este programa de transmisión be Chi he aprendido mucho de mecánica gracias
I stripped my sunshell during a hard acceleration. This video walked me through everything to get my transmission rebuilt. I decided to upgrade some of the components while I was at it. I installed a monster sun shell, sonax pinless accumulator pistons, zpack clutches, transgo shift kit, Corvett servo and high stall converter. I have it installed and is working great. Feels better then before. If driving casually it has very soft shifts that you can't feel but if you get on the gas the shifts get much firmer and faster. The only issue I have is my shifter display is acting a little weird and the column feels kinda sloppy in park. I'm sure a simple adjustment of the shifter cable or neutral safety switch will correct it. Feeling pretty happy right now.
Thank you guys for making such a thorough video.
That sounds like a great upgrade to your transmission!
Definitely adjust the neutral safety switch
@dudewecanfixit I tried adjusting it, then I replaced it twice with no improvement. It turned out being a broken wire on one of the harnesses that plug into the neutral safety switch. Fixed the wire and everything is working perfectly now. Thanks again.
You are absolutely the best. I have never seen the inside of a transmission and I got a used 94 4l60e. I want to do a complete rebuild. I was wondering if you could recommend the best kit to do this. Thank you
Transmissionbench.com
They sell high quality kits
damn too much work but hey ya did good
Thanks
dude, solid video. this earned a sub. im rebuilding my first 4l60. this video made it super easy. having the camera man while you work is key.
Thanks for the sub!
Thanks a million I never even had 1 apart now just gotter dun. I had to use some shim stock to get one of the pistons in but other than that I went step by step with no problem.
Glad you got it together without too much trouble!
What was your total cost?
About $500. It's also a good idea to spend the 300 extra to get a new torque converter
this video was a godsend. thank you so much just finished my 4l60 and about to put it in. yall are awesome
Thank you so much for the support! Hows she holding up?
great video. does transmission work bench new part come labeled.
I don't understand the comment. Can you rephrase it?
2:06:11 Hey Anthony question how’s this transmission holding up To this date with the parts and rebuild kit that you got for this build
I started to tear down mine and I want to see if I will go this route I love watching your videos especially the LS 5.3 Head Gaskets one’s it gave me the confidence to do the ones in my truck and now I’m working on my other truck 4l60e that needs work with the 3/4 burnt clutch pack Thanks bro keep up the good work.
I'm glad to hear it, that's why I make these videos!
The Tahoe is doing great, we haven't had any issues yet and it's been almost 3 years.
Thank you again! I just replaced my broken sunshell. I put my trans together and noticed my input shaft play has almost no play at all. I can turn the shaft by hand but I have almost no play at all. Is this an issue or can I install the transmission?
I don't remember the specs off the top of my head
Just wanted to say a big thank you on these videos. After watching them many times I have rebuilt mine. I am at a stand still waiting on a 1-2 accumulator spring. It’s been fun with a slight headache lol. Thanks again
You're welcome! I'm glad you were able to get it rebuilt!
We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs
ruclips.net/video/DPFRM2jOU4o/видео.html
How did it go I. Thinking on tackling this job was it worth it? And any poibters and best kits?
@@TonY74U it’s not a bad job. I just had issues with one clip. I bought from rock auto and cyclone transmission.
@@Gmt400 thank you! Ivalmist got the tranny dropped i will start by taking it apart and see how confusing it is lol im just a weekend wrencher reboaced several engines but ner opened a tranny.
at 1:26 I put mine in until it will not drop any lower. It feels fully seated in. However, the top drum is no longer touching the thrust bearing by just a little bit. Now it IS sitting on the new hardened sun shell so it is as far in as it will go. Is this still correct or should that very top drum still touch the thrust washer and my aftermarket hardened "the beast" sun shell have a defect?
Sorry, I am late replying to this. Did you find the answer you were looking for?
do you happen to know what that o-ring is called @ 2:06:00. Thanks in advance.
If I didn't name it in the video, then unfortunately I don't have a name for it.
1:28:26 I torqued down my pump and now I don't have enough space for the seal. Did I miss something or should I loosen it up to make room for seal then torque down the bolts?
My pump doesnt have a seal around it. The case has a seal. Figured it out just in case anyone has this question. I drive 2005 4wd tahoe, with np246 rear transfer case.
Glad you got it figured out!
We also appreciate you sharing the resolution.
I think this is well a explained tutorial. If you have the slightest bit of mechanical knowledge I believe this video is a huge help. Especially for the guys that don't have PROPER TOOLS. YOU KNOW THE TYPE..THE ONES LIKE YOU. THE ONES THAT DONT WANT TO GO SPEND HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS ON SPECIALTY TOOLS ONLY TO NEVER USE THEM AGAIN. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO. Im doing my transmission this weekend..fingers crossed and praying it goes well ..
Thank you! That is exactly the group of people I made this video for! Good luck on your rebuild!
Great video guys. Do you happen to have the measurements of the homemade tool you made to compress the spring packs. Id like to get one made so its ready for when i start my rebuild? thanks
I don't have the measurements on hand, but if I find it I'll let you know
What do you set your clearance on your clutch packs 3-4, forward, reverse input drum....ect?
If its not in the video, I don't have specs for it unfortunately.
I noticed you did not ream out the bore and put oversized torque converter regulator valve in. I am hesitant to do this as well (I have 05 Suburban) due to the $80 specialty tool. I did not have the 1870 code before, and am wondering how critical this replacement is?
Eventually, the bore will get worn out and start leaking by. However, our transmission has over 300k on it and it's still doing fine.
@@dudewecanfixit Thanks. I’m just over 200k so I will pass on it as well.
when you did the second set of clutch, did you not measure for clearance play after putting the snap ring?
I believe I mentioned the clearance after each step
At 1:54:15 you skipped past installing the accumulator. Did you replace the pistons in the accumulator?
Yes, the kit comes with new aluminum pistons
My 1997 GMC 1500 5.7 liter vortec 4l60e transmission 12 years ago was rebuilt and had a transgo shift kit and corvette servo up grade.For instance if I was to order a rebuild kit would the one that you used in this video be okay for me to order?
I would imagine so, you could call transmissionbench.com for further info.
I also didn’t get a new manifold pressure switch. Is cleaning up the original one acceptable?
You can try to reuse it and if it doesn't work out, you can just drop the pan and change it under your truck.
Love these videos. I'm rebuilding my transmission soon and watching hours of video before I take this on. I love a good challenge
You can do it!
For the pressure regulator valve is there always 2 springs? I only have one and I don’t know if I lost it or not
Ooh, I don't know. There could be different designs
Any advice on what I would need to get going again,truck been down for awhile this video gives me hope that it can be FIXED
What were the original symptoms?
I know the vid is 2 years old but I just wanna say thank you for such a good video, I was able to rebuild my 4L60 flawlessly by following your vid. Thanks again
Thank you for letting us know how it went! Beyond happy we were able to help. It’s one hell of a process so anything to make it easier helps. 😁
I'm glad we were able to help!
Got 300 miles on my rebuild, so far so good. Thanks for the help, great resource.
Great to hear!
Do you have to prime the pump, like you would on an engine oil pump. Some people pack engine oil pumps with grease or Vaseline,just wondering.
I would follow the video on that one. You can drizzle some ATF on it before you close it up.
Thank you for your awesome step by step assembly and wear check instructions. Make it look so easy. Right tools are a must. This video was a life saver. Took me 20 minutes to find a clip ring plier that would pull output shaft ring. my case was worn so couldnt get oneway/silencer out easily.Took hour to find tools to twist oneway around against silencer enough to pull oneway out. So nice to pop oneway back in the case despite the silencer. Case is worn a bit but its not going to be a drag machine or wall climber truck.
I'm glad this video helped you! Every rebuild is a little bit different, but I'm glad you got it!
Beyond happy that we were able to help!! You can thank us by subscribing and liking the video 😁
We also have a new homesteading channel if your interested! We are giving away $500 to one of our subscribers once we reach 1,000 subs
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Great video, can’t say enough about it. Quick question. My tranny needs to be rebuilt, and, I was wondering if you do rebuilds for customers?
Now i gotta try. Excellent work guys. Where did y'all get that kit?
Thanks!
transmissionbench.com
You did GREAT JOB with the transmission and your video is very helpful,I’ll follow your steps to rebuild my 4L65E transmission
THANK YOU
Thank you!
Best of luck on your rebuild. Take your time and do it right.
Not fully rebuilding mine but I am replacing drum assembly and major seals and gasket. I dropped a check ball in one of the holes and one somewhere else. I also forgot where they go. 1. where can I find new ones 2. is there a diagram anywhere showing where the check balls seat.
I don't have a diagram, but I so show the locations in the video. I would try transmissionbench.com for any parts.
Awesome video, thanks. I ran across it while trying to find out if the internal components can be swapped from a first generation one piece case to a second generation 2 piece case. The first gen one piece case on my 97 suburban got the threads of the bottom cooling line cracked and i have a 2 piece case from a 97 Blazer to which I plan to swap the internals of my old tranny, which was working good when I broke the threads. I know the 4 bolt tail adaptor to the transfer case is different, as the second generation tail has 6 bolts. Thanks for your input.
Is it interchangeable?
@@dudewecanfixit I don't know just yet, I already took apart the Blazer tranny, which looked quite good except for some rust in the valves of the valve body. I soaked the whole body on tranny fluid (which is an amazing cleaner by the way) and was able to get the valves out. Meanwhile, I bought a tranny rebuild kit and will rebuild this one using the valve body and the torque converter from the original tranny. I have been told that the internal components from 1996-1999 are interchangeable, will post the answer when I get to the actual swap.
I have watched lots of videos on this. Yours is the only one that covered all my questions.
Happy we were able to help! Consider subscribing 😁
Dude, do you recommend a specific rebuild kit for an OEM rebuild...'04 astro van...
I got mine from transmissionbench.com
@@dudewecanfixit hey, I've got to complement you. I've watched numerous videos on the 4l60e rebuild and yours was the only one that showed the simple check on the 3-4 ball valve. 👍
This was one of my concerns about taking on this project, as a shade tree-er....do 99% right and there's that one thing that's overlooked, requiring me to pull the tranny out a second time. Right on brother, thanks for sharing.
One more thing, any recommendations on the second gear reem. Effin sonnex wants almost $200 for their reemer, ffs.
Thank you. Just took for the test drive. 06 chevy half ton 4x4. First time doing it and it works great. You saved me 3700.00 wow. Yhe only thing I purchased were some small c clamps to remove the last spring pack in the tail shaft. Hope it lasts. Thanks again. Ginna do my allison now. Awesome video.
As a follow up I found it was shifting soft. So I pulled the valve body off and found the gasket had moved and covered some of the small holes. At the same time I put a stage 1 transgo it in it and a corvette servo. Wow works perfect. Thanks again.
I was wondering what the cost to rebuild it was? Did you also buy a upgraded sun shell?
@@bbay1977 I did the stage 4 kit from a company out of Vegas . useed stock sunger it was ok. Put in 5 cylinoids and a trans go shift kit. The cost was around 700. I did all yhe work but some pressed bushings were fone at a shop for 100.
@@douglasmueller4684 Oh okay thanks for the reply. So I see someone can save some cash but not a whole lot really. I haven't really got any good prices on transmissions. I checked my fluid again today and it did look burnt, so i was going to change the fluid and filter and I hope that fixes it.my issue is that I own a 2002 camaro and no lift 😆. Even changing the filter and fluid will be a pain to change. I do have some ramps, but if that doesn't fix my issue then I will have to see if i can push it off the ramps. Thanks
@@bbay1977 you can shop around and their are stock kits in the 250 to 300 range. The shops installed to were between 2800 and 4200 to rebuild it. Good luck and hope you get it to work.
Okay so I've got to the servo install. For some reason it won't seat all the way down for me to put the snap ring on. What could be causing it not to seat all the way in??? Any help would definitely be appreciated. This video made it simple to rebuild my 4l60e
Take it apart, lube everything up and put it back together. Sometimes things just don’t line up right and redoing it usually solves the issue
Best rebuild video I've watched, step by step. Great video, thanks
Glad you liked it!
My 3rd and 4th clutch plate stack out of a 2011 Silverado 1500 with a 4L60/65 only had 5 steels and 6 frictions and my final gap is much bigger than yours. Is this ok? I see that they can be model specific. @video time 50:06. I tried fitting a worn out steel plus the extra friction I got and I would have to compressing the final spacer a lot to fit the retaining ring.
I would not force anything in there, it should have a small amount of play. I think there were some revisions in the transmissions in 2009. Sorry, but I'm not certain how your 2011 is set up.
I would see how many of each came out and replace with the same number of each. But, you need to find someone with more experience on the newer models.
Thanks!
Is the yellow trans pump seal the sticks out stay on the outside or does it slide down into the transmission housing. Because mine stayed on the outside instead of going in
Can you give me a timestamp of when you saw this in the video?
1:28:28 but I figured it out. Checking out on google apparently if it has the metal seal on the end, it doesn’t need the yellow one on the pump
what kit exactly i have to order for my 4L60e 1999 s10 ? my truck stop working in Spain and cant get the transmission from state , decided to rebuild it , the problem is my truck wont change the gear from 3 to 4 thanks for great video .
I will add an Amazon link to a rebuild kit in the comment section
@@dudewecanfixit thanks nice of you
I had a transmission rebuilt tranmission sprayed out of the dip stick when checking the fluid level. Seem like a blockage. What could it be.
Probably too much fluid in the pan.
Thanks for the very detailed and informative video. Im highly confident in rebuilding my 60e for my 99 Camaro Z28. I was always hesitant up until now I really appreciate you guys!!
You can do it!
I just re-installed transmission, and now it does not try to shift to 3rd gear. 1995 Suburban 315k miles I took on the rebuild because I lost 3rd gear and just like everything says the 3-4 clutch pack was fried. I'm sure since it used to try and shift to 3rd, this change is due to a mistake I made. Any recommendation on where to look?
Absolutely loved the video and appreciate all the good information, thank you for making it.
There are so many little things that it could be I cannot begin to diagnose it. Maybe check with a local transmission shop.
Just in case it helps someone else, the check ball in the case they talk about checking was leaking. (I missed checking this my first time thru.) I tapped it with a hammer to seat, a bit of metal came out and then it sealed. 2,000 miles in and all is well.
@lo330ob7 Thanks for sharing!
Awesome content, where is a good place to order a full kit,Thanks
Transmissionbench.com
I can’t find anywhere that talks about it, is the case silencer needed? I just got my trans back in pieces from my builder and working on putting it back together and cannot find the case silencer
I'm not sure how it would go without the case silencer, I always put everything back the way I found it. You will need to ask a transmission shop.
I have finally rebuilt my own transmission thanks to your very thorough explanation on assembly thank you so much !!!!!
Great job!
I have a 4l60e on my 2005 Yukon and I’m getting some drips out the yoke weep hole by the ujoint. Upon removal of the housing I noticed I didn’t have the sleeve with oring, shouldn’t it be in there since my slip yoke has that hole on it? If not, should/could I add the sleeve?
I know there are a couple styles, but I have only done the type seen in the video.