I've actually started to go with aluminium instead of brass. A quality rig does not need to weigh 10 lbs to perform well and I agree that weight bias is much more important than just adding more. good video.
I find your videos very helpful as a newbie to the hobby full of information and not loads of pointless waffle. You are the first person I've seen say light wheels are better but after hearing your reason why I understand how that can help
On rock: With the body off try a climb which is too steep to get up. Then try it again but press vertically down on the front diff. What you'll find is a massive increase in traction. I tried this and was totally amazed. The amount I was pressing down was way more force than I could possibly create with adding brass. Lighten the chassis and load the axels with a 60 to 65% front bias.
Finally, someone talks some senses. I have been in and out of rc game, out more than in, recently decided to try crawler, waiting for a trx6 to arrive in fact. All those years while I was in the game, I usually think about trimming off weight as much as I can without upsetting the structure and the balance of the chassis and on the contrary, enhance it making it stronger. Isn’t it what we do on the real thing? Now what puzzles me is that most recommendations I see are adding weight all the time... I thought, what a strange approach. I intend to find out after I got the car, and am glad that the vid of yours says different. I ll still have to find out after I tried it, but what you said, makes a lot sense to me. Keep up the good stuff mate, well done and thanks for the effort.
Good video really liked it but I'd like to see a real world comparison two of the same truck setup with the same weight distribution but one truck with weighted tires and axles and see what happens🤔
You cant be without a bumper if you plan to run your RC in a Class 1, or 2 competition, just keep that in mind when removing things ;) Great video as usual, thanks!
I have a Redcat Everest 10 and have about 4 ounces of weight on the front and rear servo. I am working on the bias now. I also have 2.5 ounces in each wheel. Its not bad but I am still working for the magic number. I am an ex machinist and diesel technician and love the adventure.
Great video and a wonderful way to explain adding or removing weight, only time I've found it completely necessary to add the brass is if you have a lot of weight up high on a body like a metal roof rack with lots of scale accessories. I didn't need the weight on my Trx4 Sport until I added the rear rack and several different scale accessories.
A rig can be too light to provide sufficient ground pressure for traction. I’m facing that and will need to add weight, mostly up front, to help the tires do their job.
to my Sport i added afront brass 50 gramm diffcase cover and a front metal axeltube ,4 metal rims thats all of added weight.Brass tends to bent and break under extreme crawling conditions.
Recently got into crawling and was intrigued with the idea of adding weight to improve performance. It goes against almost every other kind of full size Motorsport edict. Quickly realised the actual goal should be reducing weight everywhere possible, then redistributing what you absolutely have to carry to get a front bias. Any added weight after that may improve some areas of performance (traction on slopes less than 45 degrees and climbing on high grip surfaces) but is unlikely to help on low grip, steeper terrain.
Hi there, awesome videos, not just this one! I wish you did not stop recording! Anyways, speaking of lightweight wheels - anyone got a suggestion for 3D printed 2.2 beadlocks? Thanks!
We just picked up the SKYRC Corner Scale , it is a great scale ! We are running 60% to the front and it works great for a 7-8lb. trx4 sport . Thanks for video , we are really into these crawlers ! Check us out if you have time , thanks again !
Adding weight is really not necessary from my experience I have a bone stock trx 4 defender and a bone stock red cat gen 7 pro and across the street from me is a construction site where a new house is being built they have a steep ten foot tall pile of loose gravel that both my rigs can get up to the top with no problem never tipped over backwards I just learned how to read the terrain where I know if I go up this way I’ll tip if I go that way I won’t tip I just take my time and go slow if I notice I’m about to lose traction I’ll pause think about my next move some guys will just reverse a bit try another line I never use reverse unless I have to
I added width. Now i'm working on adding a touch of weight. It's expensive and I'd rather not spend the money. I was thinking brass up front and aluminum in the rear.
So I have paused the video. I believe in super light and weight displacement. 60/40, good tracking and torque. Also picking the right lines. But the right weight in the right places is key. Watched the video. We are one the same page. Plus who wants to carry a 10 lb truck back out from a crawl. I'm old and don't have time for that.
So many ppl new to the hobby think the secret is to throw a pile of brass at the truck. That’s so wrong. But all in good time we all learn. Great video mate.
I am going to put all that on my truck I run Jeep Wrangler four-door Hardbody it flips easy so I'm go put all that weight on the bottom to change the white balance of my body
I've actually started to go with aluminium instead of brass. A quality rig does not need to weigh 10 lbs to perform well and I agree that weight bias is much more important than just adding more. good video.
Thank you!
I find your videos very helpful as a newbie to the hobby full of information and not loads of pointless waffle. You are the first person I've seen say light wheels are better but after hearing your reason why I understand how that can help
Thank you!
I'm new to crawling and been watching a few videos lately and now have found my go to guy.
Amazing, thank you!
On rock: With the body off try a climb which is too steep to get up. Then try it again but press vertically down on the front diff. What you'll find is a massive increase in traction. I tried this and was totally amazed. The amount I was pressing down was way more force than I could possibly create with adding brass. Lighten the chassis and load the axels with a 60 to 65% front bias.
Great suggestion, testing how added weight will work with spare fasteners/scrap.
Finally, someone talks some senses. I have been in and out of rc game, out more than in, recently decided to try crawler, waiting for a trx6 to arrive in fact. All those years while I was in the game, I usually think about trimming off weight as much as I can without upsetting the structure and the balance of the chassis and on the contrary, enhance it making it stronger. Isn’t it what we do on the real thing?
Now what puzzles me is that most recommendations I see are adding weight all the time... I thought, what a strange approach. I intend to find out after I got the car, and am glad that the vid of yours says different. I ll still have to find out after I tried it, but what you said, makes a lot sense to me. Keep up the good stuff mate, well done and thanks for the effort.
Wow thanks! The trx6 is pretty mad and rarely tips back due to the length. Seen some crazy lines with them
Great Video, At last someone who understands the correct balance, friction and weight.
Good video really liked it but I'd like to see a real world comparison two of the same truck setup with the same weight distribution but one truck with weighted tires and axles and see what happens🤔
have to agree %100. Got into small scale trail/ crawling over the past year. Mainly trail running, trying to climb and side hill id slide down hill.
Hundred percent on your team !! do spend some time testing ! It’s the best the best advice I can give!
Great advice!
You cant be without a bumper if you plan to run your RC in a Class 1, or 2 competition, just keep that in mind when removing things ;) Great video as usual, thanks!
Thanks for letting people know. We don’t have a lot of SORRCA comps in the UK so was more advice for the “out for fun” crawler
I have a Redcat Everest 10 and have about 4 ounces of weight on the front and rear servo. I am working on the bias now. I also have 2.5 ounces in each wheel. Its not bad but I am still working for the magic number. I am an ex machinist and diesel technician and love the adventure.
Great video and a wonderful way to explain adding or removing weight, only time I've found it completely necessary to add the brass is if you have a lot of weight up high on a body like a metal roof rack with lots of scale accessories. I didn't need the weight on my Trx4 Sport until I added the rear rack and several different scale accessories.
Thanks!
You use logic and I love it. Too much weight is counterproductive. It's all about weight distribution.
Thank you! Totally agree
I love that mercedes body,im wondering if it could be used on trx4 sport high trail
Lot's of great ideas here. Thanks, loving the channel.
Wow thanks for the kind words!
A rig can be too light to provide sufficient ground pressure for traction. I’m facing that and will need to add weight, mostly up front, to help the tires do their job.
to my Sport i added afront brass 50 gramm diffcase cover and a front metal axeltube ,4 metal rims thats all of added weight.Brass tends to bent and break under extreme crawling conditions.
Sounds sensible! I’ve definitely put too much on myself in the past and learnt from it
Recently got into crawling and was intrigued with the idea of adding weight to improve performance. It goes against almost every other kind of full size Motorsport edict. Quickly realised the actual goal should be reducing weight everywhere possible, then redistributing what you absolutely have to carry to get a front bias. Any added weight after that may improve some areas of performance (traction on slopes less than 45 degrees and climbing on high grip surfaces) but is unlikely to help on low grip, steeper terrain.
Yep. Always go as light as possible, then if you need to add weight you can add less to get the bias back
Hi there, awesome videos, not just this one! I wish you did not stop recording!
Anyways, speaking of lightweight wheels - anyone got a suggestion for 3D printed 2.2 beadlocks? Thanks!
Learned a lot thank you
You should check out what I did with my rgt.
Just to make it as light and low as possible with front bias...you got some great content big
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👍👍🍻🍻
Really informative, thank you!
We just picked up the SKYRC Corner Scale , it is a great scale ! We are running 60% to the front and it works great for a 7-8lb. trx4 sport . Thanks for video , we are really into these crawlers ! Check us out if you have time , thanks again !
Glad to hear! And yeah will check you out now
@@JustScalin Thanks again !
Adding weight is really not necessary from my experience I have a bone stock trx 4 defender and a bone stock red cat gen 7 pro and across the street from me is a construction site where a new house is being built they have a steep ten foot tall pile of loose gravel that both my rigs can get up to the top with no problem never tipped over backwards I just learned how to read the terrain where I know if I go up this way I’ll tip if I go that way I won’t tip I just take my time and go slow if I notice I’m about to lose traction I’ll pause think about my next move some guys will just reverse a bit try another line I never use reverse unless I have to
I added width. Now i'm working on adding a touch of weight. It's expensive and I'd rather not spend the money.
I was thinking brass up front and aluminum in the rear.
So I have paused the video. I believe in super light and weight displacement. 60/40, good tracking and torque. Also picking the right lines. But the right weight in the right places is key.
Watched the video. We are one the same page. Plus who wants to carry a 10 lb truck back out from a crawl. I'm old and don't have time for that.
So many ppl new to the hobby think the secret is to throw a pile of brass at the truck. That’s so wrong. But all in good time we all learn. Great video mate.
Thank you, and agree 100%!
I am going to put all that on my truck I run Jeep Wrangler four-door Hardbody it flips easy so I'm go put all that weight on the bottom to change the white balance of my body
I would add even more !
So basically the answer isn’t more weight, it’s more weight in the front