I worked for a small sculpture foundry . I was very good at making blanket molds with catalytic rubber . I did molds for Rubin Krammer, and Hans Schuler. The only bronze technique that I didn't get to learn was pointing. Rubin Krammer told me that if I could learn that skill my foundry education would be worth a half million dollars. I took my education to an industrial jewelry caster,where in 4years , I cast 1,200,000 penny weights of 10 carrat gold.
Thanks a lot maestro for step-by-step walkthrough. My Antwerpen 'tutor' was to selfish/useless/wasting my time to explained/demonstrate this procedure . Got the picture. Much appreciated. Thanks RUclips!
7 лет назад+4
This video is showing us how simplicity can create magic. Thanks for sharing.
Hello I wondered why your channel is called "funeral podcast". I tried to understand the name by having a look at google. But to no avail. Please enlighten me on this matter.
It's call The Sculptor's Funeral. I took the name from the title of a short story by Willa Cather, and I more fully excplain that in the first episode of the podcast. Thanks for listening!
@@arklenaut Now please just edit your good reply and copy paste the link to the video please. This is quite easy to do by clicking first on the "forward video" arrow below the video. Copy and paste into the reply. Thank you!
I don't have any pics of that, but it's the same principle. For a standing figure, if you put one nail up top in the head, and the other two on the base, so that the croce forms and inverted 'T', that should do it. Croces vary as much as the statues being copied, but as long as you can create a stable tripod attached to the cast, you are good.
@@CameraWithaGuy Yoiu usually don't need to. You can re-clamp the macchinetta to any part of the croce, and if it still doesn't reach, you can simply add a 'branch' arm to the croce that allows the macchinetta to reach. The croce only serves as a tripod - you can add as many extensions to it as you need. Sometimes if gets a little imbalanced (Like if the macchinetta is way off to one side), so you may need to counterwieght the croce as needed.
Great video. Thanks. Being a frustrated inventor, I can't help but wondering if a "point-ing" machine could be modified to be a "line-ing" machine or even a "plane-ing" machine. Now the last is probably unnecessary for any competent sculptor (which I'm not), but I suspect the other might have some value and might not be excessively difficult a modification to the pointing machine. Consider: Replace the needle and its round socket with a edged tool (like a sharp, symmetrical chisel) with a square or hexagonal shaft mounted in a square or hexagonal "hole". The "hole" would itself be free to rotate and be locked at any desired angle to the model. Now instead of marking a single point, the sculptor would be able to mark a line of length equal to the width of the "chisel", and, hence, to roughly carve out larger portions of the stone with fewer interruptions to mark points. Properly constructed, only one "machine" would be needed. The "chisel" could easily be replaced by a point made on hex stock. I'd be interested in reactions to this idea -- which I give freely without thought of compensation (but this posting constitutes a publication of the idea).
I think I see where you are going with this idea, but I am not sure it would be practical. The pointing machine isn't the tool doing the carving - you remove the 'machine' and cut away with chesels. The machine only tells you where to take away. having a chesel or flat 'point' would only be more vague in locating specific locations on the marble, and you certainly don't need a line or a plane point in order to remove areas and planes of material; proper use of the pointing machine isn't about locating points and digging out those points, it's about finding a few points which help you remove material in between points... a bit hard to explain, but if you actually tried to use one you would see for yourself (And you should try it!) Cheers.
@@thesculptorsfuneralpodcast3395 I would expect that a "line-ing machine" (or "line-segment-ing machine", which might be a more accurate name) that I described would replace the pointing tool. Rather, I see it as enabling the sculptor to mark significant line segments that could be sculpted down to in one go, rather than point-by-point. (My use of the term "chisel" was only to describe the shape of the piece that replaces the "point" or "needle" on the pointing machine, and did not imply that it would be used as a chisel to cut away stone.) Where the pointing machine locates points, my brainchild would located a series of points. I offer this idea as a possible option to someone who is building his own "machine", as it's a minor modification of that tool. I'm reminded, here, of a student of anthropology I encountered as an undergraduate. He was running around measuring the toes of volunteers to test some hypothesis or other. He was using an external (or "outside-joint") calipers (e.g., images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71GKN88rGpL._SY445_.jpg ) that must have been at least 10" long. The tool was completely inappropriate to the task. (A hermaphrodite calipers, e.g., www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/173872922651_/Starrett-No-41-Firm-Joint-Hermaphrodite-Caliper.jpg would have been more suitable, but a simple ruler would have sufficed.) He claimed he "had to" use these calipers because they were a tool approved for anthropological studies -- or some such BS. What I'm driving at is that if your only tool is a hammer, you see every problem as a nail. Sometimes it's better to examine the tool. (In science, it's essential to "ask" the right question.) So, if we want to modify the pointing tool, maybe to speed the work, suppose we replaced the needle with a long, narrow masonry bit. We use this on the model as usual, but when we get to the stone, we attach a Dremel tool to the bit and drill down to the marked point, rather than hand-chiseling down to it. Is this an advantage? Probably not to an experienced sculptor who has been using the pointing machine all his life. But a tool such as I just described is one step closer (than the pointing machine, which itself is already one large step closer than freehand sculpting by eye) to being a "tool of certainty". Is such a modification necessary or even desirable -- that's a matter for the user to decide. But it may be nice to have it as an option. This thesis is that a hammer and chisel (or other such tools) represent tools of "uncertainty" -- they'll do anything the skilled sculptor wants them to, without limits. By contrast, an investment mold is an extreme example of a tool of certainty -- it can produce one shape only. An artist naturally gravitates to the former, but there's much to be said for the latter. If we were not sculpting marble, but instead were rendering the model to bronze, the next step would be to prepare an investment mold from the model.
good point there, pun intended. Well if you'd make a different style of needle, it could be used to define a plane rather than a point, and then that whole plane could be cut with a flush cutting blade on an angle grinder. But be warned it would not be accurate enough and could only be used in the inital stages. For that there are other methods, such as templates for front and side views.
If you use transparent plastic, you can finds lots more details. And if you trace the outline (put the sculpture on its side on a large flat board or floor and mark the circumference with the use of a carpenter's square, then copy that onto paper, cardboard or plastic and then onto your stone), that'll save you lots of time in the pointing process. Pointing is slow but very accurate. If you don't need accuracy, there are lots of other ways of measuring. Outlines, for example, or put it in half a wooden box (bottom and two sides) and the stone as well, and measure from that with calipers, etc etc. But round shapes are harder to measure, and for that the pointing machine is great.
@@thesculptorsfuneralpodcast3395 or you can buy a better and much cheaper model here: www.arandarickert.com.ar Check the info and then feel free to send me an e-mail
hello mate do you where where I should buy one pointing machine for stone carving even if you help about pert name I can make my own ,nice to hear you!
I've used a few different homemade pointing machines - made by professional machinists even - but none were half as good as the ones made by Milani Utensili in Pietrasanta, Italy. They are a bit expensive, but the tools are handmade and will last generations. you can order directly from them - www.milaniutensili.it - but other sculpture suppliers will carry Milani tools as well.
constintine stjohn you but a pointing machine from the Milani company, based in Italy. www.milaniutensili.it . it's called a 'macchinetta a punto'. sculpture stores in the US nigh carry them as well. I think you can buy one at Blick Art Supplies
Ryan Hill glad you liked the video. the pointing machine is just for 1 to 1 scale. to enlarge or reduce, sculptor's use the compass technique, which was the main technique before the macchinetta was invented. I will do a video on that too - some day!
Sorry for the late response! any good stone carving supplier will sell them, but only Milani make them, and you can order directly from them: www.milaniutensili.it
I worked for a small sculpture foundry . I was very good at making blanket molds with catalytic rubber . I did molds for Rubin Krammer, and Hans Schuler. The only bronze technique that I didn't get to learn was pointing. Rubin Krammer told me that if I could learn that skill my foundry education would be worth a half million dollars. I took my education to an industrial jewelry caster,where in 4years , I cast 1,200,000 penny weights of 10 carrat gold.
I'm a student and I needed to now how this pointing machine works for my studies (archeology), so thanks a lot for explaining it! :D
Sylvain Rosseel really wonderful info. Love it and will do it.
Thanks a lot
Thanks a lot maestro for step-by-step walkthrough. My Antwerpen 'tutor' was to selfish/useless/wasting my time to explained/demonstrate this procedure . Got the picture. Much appreciated. Thanks RUclips!
This video is showing us how simplicity can create magic.
Thanks for sharing.
Excellent! It's about time, brilliant!
Always wondered how this tool is used. Now I know thanks to you mate.
So it's an ancient tool for three D mapping.
Very nice.
Nice work,I'm a jewller by trade so I enjoy quality and details.
Hello I wondered why your channel is called "funeral podcast". I tried to understand the name by having a look at google. But to no avail. Please enlighten me on this matter.
It's call The Sculptor's Funeral. I took the name from the title of a short story by Willa Cather, and I more fully excplain that in the first episode of the podcast. Thanks for listening!
@@arklenaut Now please just edit your good reply and copy paste the link to the video please. This is quite easy to do by clicking first on the "forward video" arrow below the video. Copy and paste into the reply. Thank you!
Great educational video....thank you so much!
So many thanks Jason Arkles 😃🙏🏼
Fantastico
GREAT VIDEO . THANX VERY MUCH
Excellent video.
Thank you so much.
I used this machine. You need aloooot of patience.
Thank you! Very Informative!
And you have a lot of fun!
A very good explanation of copying this kind of model but can you show how a "standing" model could be copied ?
I don't have any pics of that, but it's the same principle. For a standing figure, if you put one nail up top in the head, and the other two on the base, so that the croce forms and inverted 'T', that should do it. Croces vary as much as the statues being copied, but as long as you can create a stable tripod attached to the cast, you are good.
@@arklenaut Should you make stable mounts on both sides of the model -- say, front and back?
@@CameraWithaGuy Yoiu usually don't need to. You can re-clamp the macchinetta to any part of the croce, and if it still doesn't reach, you can simply add a 'branch' arm to the croce that allows the macchinetta to reach. The croce only serves as a tripod - you can add as many extensions to it as you need. Sometimes if gets a little imbalanced (Like if the macchinetta is way off to one side), so you may need to counterwieght the croce as needed.
Great video. Thanks.
Being a frustrated inventor, I can't help but wondering if a "point-ing" machine could be modified to be a "line-ing" machine or even a "plane-ing" machine. Now the last is probably unnecessary for any competent sculptor (which I'm not), but I suspect the other might have some value and might not be excessively difficult a modification to the pointing machine.
Consider: Replace the needle and its round socket with a edged tool (like a sharp, symmetrical chisel) with a square or hexagonal shaft mounted in a square or hexagonal "hole". The "hole" would itself be free to rotate and be locked at any desired angle to the model.
Now instead of marking a single point, the sculptor would be able to mark a line of length equal to the width of the "chisel", and, hence, to roughly carve out larger portions of the stone with fewer interruptions to mark points.
Properly constructed, only one "machine" would be needed. The "chisel" could easily be replaced by a point made on hex stock.
I'd be interested in reactions to this idea -- which I give freely without thought of compensation (but this posting constitutes a publication of the idea).
I think I see where you are going with this idea, but I am not sure it would be practical. The pointing machine isn't the tool doing the carving - you remove the 'machine' and cut away with chesels. The machine only tells you where to take away. having a chesel or flat 'point' would only be more vague in locating specific locations on the marble, and you certainly don't need a line or a plane point in order to remove areas and planes of material; proper use of the pointing machine isn't about locating points and digging out those points, it's about finding a few points which help you remove material in between points... a bit hard to explain, but if you actually tried to use one you would see for yourself (And you should try it!) Cheers.
@@thesculptorsfuneralpodcast3395 I would expect that a "line-ing machine" (or "line-segment-ing machine", which might be a more accurate name) that I described would replace the pointing tool. Rather, I see it as enabling the sculptor to mark significant line segments that could be sculpted down to in one go, rather than point-by-point. (My use of the term "chisel" was only to describe the shape of the piece that replaces the "point" or "needle" on the pointing machine, and did not imply that it would be used as a chisel to cut away stone.) Where the pointing machine locates points, my brainchild would located a series of points. I offer this idea as a possible option to someone who is building his own "machine", as it's a minor modification of that tool.
I'm reminded, here, of a student of anthropology I encountered as an undergraduate. He was running around measuring the toes of volunteers to test some hypothesis or other. He was using an external (or "outside-joint") calipers (e.g., images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71GKN88rGpL._SY445_.jpg ) that must have been at least 10" long. The tool was completely inappropriate to the task. (A hermaphrodite calipers, e.g., www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/173872922651_/Starrett-No-41-Firm-Joint-Hermaphrodite-Caliper.jpg would have been more suitable, but a simple ruler would have sufficed.) He claimed he "had to" use these calipers because they were a tool approved for anthropological studies -- or some such BS.
What I'm driving at is that if your only tool is a hammer, you see every problem as a nail. Sometimes it's better to examine the tool. (In science, it's essential to "ask" the right question.)
So, if we want to modify the pointing tool, maybe to speed the work, suppose we replaced the needle with a long, narrow masonry bit. We use this on the model as usual, but when we get to the stone, we attach a Dremel tool to the bit and drill down to the marked point, rather than hand-chiseling down to it. Is this an advantage? Probably not to an experienced sculptor who has been using the pointing machine all his life.
But a tool such as I just described is one step closer (than the pointing machine, which itself is already one large step closer than freehand sculpting by eye) to being a "tool of certainty". Is such a modification necessary or even desirable -- that's a matter for the user to decide. But it may be nice to have it as an option.
This thesis is that a hammer and chisel (or other such tools) represent tools of "uncertainty" -- they'll do anything the skilled sculptor wants them to, without limits. By contrast, an investment mold is an extreme example of a tool of certainty -- it can produce one shape only. An artist naturally gravitates to the former, but there's much to be said for the latter. If we were not sculpting marble, but instead were rendering the model to bronze, the next step would be to prepare an investment mold from the model.
good point there, pun intended. Well if you'd make a different style of needle, it could be used to define a plane rather than a point, and then that whole plane could be cut with a flush cutting blade on an angle grinder. But be warned it would not be accurate enough and could only be used in the inital stages. For that there are other methods, such as templates for front and side views.
Gracias iluminaste mi camino
At last I understood how it works! 👍👌
Simply incredible. I'm using a simple trace paper overlay and gut feel. Primitive by comparison.
If you use transparent plastic, you can finds lots more details. And if you trace the outline (put the sculpture on its side on a large flat board or floor and mark the circumference with the use of a carpenter's square, then copy that onto paper, cardboard or plastic and then onto your stone), that'll save you lots of time in the pointing process. Pointing is slow but very accurate. If you don't need accuracy, there are lots of other ways of measuring. Outlines, for example, or put it in half a wooden box (bottom and two sides) and the stone as well, and measure from that with calipers, etc etc. But round shapes are harder to measure, and for that the pointing machine is great.
Thanks a lot sir...
can you make sculpture for me, with my own design? thank you
thanks for the informative video. does this pointing device available online. Can you share where can i get one. Thanks in Advance
Milani Utensili in Pietrasanta, Italy is the company that makes these, and you can buy them directly from them online, milaniutensili.it.
@@thesculptorsfuneralpodcast3395 or you can buy a better and much cheaper model here:
www.arandarickert.com.ar
Check the info and then feel free to send me an e-mail
Very good! Lindo trabalho. Parabéns!
thanks for this video! Does anyone have plans or know where to find any to build my own pointer tool? These are ridiculously expensive!
Beautiful
I want pointing machine can you please tell me where I purchase this item
hello mate do you where where I should buy one pointing machine for stone carving even if you help about pert name I can make my own ,nice to hear you!
I've used a few different homemade pointing machines - made by professional machinists even - but none were half as good as the ones made by Milani Utensili in Pietrasanta, Italy. They are a bit expensive, but the tools are handmade and will last generations. you can order directly from them - www.milaniutensili.it - but other sculpture suppliers will carry Milani tools as well.
@@thesculptorsfuneralpodcast3395 thank you very much for all your information wish you a best!
Awesome
Thank you
where do you get the parts to make this???
constintine stjohn you but a pointing machine from the Milani company, based in Italy. www.milaniutensili.it . it's called a 'macchinetta a punto'. sculpture stores in the US nigh carry them as well. I think you can buy one at Blick Art Supplies
Thank you
Thanks for the info. Can this process be used when scaling up or down?
Ryan Hill glad you liked the video. the pointing machine is just for 1 to 1 scale. to enlarge or reduce, sculptor's use the compass technique, which was the main technique before the macchinetta was invented. I will do a video on that too - some day!
You can use a pantograph in combination with the pointing machine and/or a 3d pantograph.
@@thesculptorsfuneralpodcast3395 I found a video of an enlarging pointing machine: vimeo.com/rgbmedia/review/50334154/cb85885898
Imagine showing the inventor of the machinetta a modern CNC system.
Thx.
where to buy the the pointing machine ?
They are made by Milani Utensili in Italy. You can order from them, and I think Sculpture House in new York also carries them.
Grazie!
Thanks
wanderfull
They are so expensive
Croce literally means cross.
He makes it triangular.
Italians triggered.
True, it means cross, but it's also the name of the tripod you clamp the macchinetta to, regardless of shape. Good catch though
Thanks
Hi my friend can you tell where I can buy pointer machine?
Sorry for the late response! any good stone carving supplier will sell them, but only Milani make them, and you can order directly from them: www.milaniutensili.it