Before I traded my Crosstrek in for a gladiator I had the ironman 4x4 lift on it. And I can say I loved it. The lift did nothing but make the driving experience better and more clearance for larger tires. Very pleased with the company, and quality from Ironman.
Did you have the spec-c on your trek? I'm looking into getting the ironmans but trying to find more info on them so I can choose which ones I should get.
My son has the 2022 Outback Wilderness and I have the 2021 Crosstrek Sport Quetico. I recently did the full Bilstein Struts and shocks and Eibach springs .. 33" to the top of the front wheel well and 34" on the rear. My son has left his relatively stock as he enjoys camping with his girlfriend up in Minnesota. I'm here in AZ and have done Death Valley 4 times and Moab 3 times with the Trek .. once you start doing the off road stuff the suspension mod's are the best thing you can do other then tires. I'm running 225/65 17" BKG KO2's on stock rims with 1" spacers all around. I send my son your videos so he can make some sound decisions. Liked the one wear you say to hold off putting stuff on your rig until you know you really need it .. winch for example. I am on the same page there .. 🤠
Thanks for the clip on increasing the high on the Baru, looks awesome! Am having a RallyTeK 2” lift on my 24 OBW and I know it will look amazing just like yours! Happy Trails ✌️❤️
I was running the standard version of the iromnan kit on my '19 forester, and loved almost everything except for the sag. Just purchased the spec-c for my forester wilderness, and it'll be here tomorrow!
Got it from your other video! LP7 wheels and BF All Terrain T/A KO2 tires. Such a cool machine. Driving a WRX now but had two Outbacks in the past. Loving this new Wilderness!
Every since I watched Casey Ledelle's video a week or so ago I'm really wanting to do the Ironman lift on my wife's Crosstrek. She just wants a 2in lift and I was going to just do the spacer lift but this is overall so much better even if we aren't really going to off-road her Crosstrek. I will probably save up and do it though cause that's how I am, why do cheap when you can do something for more? Lol it's way better than just spacer lifts so it's totally worth the money.
I totally agree and in the next video I touch on the spacer lift concept. I think it’s a terrible idea for almost everyone. Thanks for the comment, Travis!
My neighbor has one he did the Ironman lift with Method wheels and 245/65/17 Maxxis Razor AT 811 that thing looks so bad ass and rides great! Also he's a single guy with a girlfriend and they go on trips every where. Don't fear the wagon single guys not just for family guys.😂😂😂
Thank you for a great video. Just put a Primitive Racing 1.5” lift onto wife’s Outback yesterday. Looking forward to the difference it makes, and to your next video!
A lot of people have channels on YT that spout misinformation unintentionally. They take information from press kits or old rumors and myths and repeat them. There's no malice or harm intended but it does make it difficult for people seeking real information to understand what a product or a vehicle might actually be capable of doing. First of all, your Power Wagon does NOT have 14.2 inches of ground clearance from the factory at the rear differential which is where every solid rear axle vehicle ever was measured from until RAM decided to measure from the highest point under the front axle tube and then pretend that meant the rear diff could also clear the 14 inch rock. Try it and you'll discover the truth. Guys who have actually measured the clearance to the rear diff get about 9 inches. Which is about right with 33" stock tires given how much the very large diff on the Power Wagon hangs below the center line of the tires. Adding full 37's would give you an additional 2 inches for a grand total of 11 inches to the diff give or take. Still not 14 as Ram claims or the 16 plus you stated in this video. The Power Wagon is still a worthy beast without the misleading marketing from RAM so I don't get the deception. Heck, Ford is doing the same sort of thing with tire sizes as their 315/70/17's on the Bronco and Raptor are actually 34.4 inches but they call them 35's. Sorry, but to round up you have to be at least half way there or more. Anyway, will it ever make a real difference? Probably not but rocks can't do math so imaginary numbers don't matter to them. In cases of serious wheeling know your real clearances everywhere. Now, as for the Outback, yes, you will get increased ground clearance but not increased wheel travel. In an independent suspension setup without changing the length of the control arms you will have the same amount of wheel travel as you did from the factory you will just start your up travel from a position farther down in the droop travel. If the new springs are too stiff then you will actually lose wheel travel as the car will begin to lift up on the springs before the bump stops are reached which would be the factory point of maximum up travel. So you can actually lose wheel travel with a lift with the wrong spring rates. The Power Wagon is an example of engineers softening the spring rates to allow for full articulation so the tow rating and payload go down versus a standard RAM 2500. Power Wagon has 1560 pounds of max payload and 10,520 pounds of max towing. Versus a Laramie Crew Cab 4x4 with same engine at 3130 pounds of payload and 14,660 pounds of max tow capacity. There's likely very little in the way of maximum available wheel travel between the two but the softer springs in the Power Wagon allow it to use all it has available to it. By the way, regarding the additional spring rate in the rear of your Outback, just because you add more spring rate to the rear doesn't mean the GVWR changes. Legally anyway. Less sag for the same weight is cool though. And you will lose wheel travel. It's the nature of the compromise beast. Anyway, back to the Outback. The Wilderness Edition comes stock with 225/65/17 Yokohama Go15's that measure to a manufactured spec of 28.5 inches. Or roughly seven tenths of an inch taller than the tires that come stock with every other version of the Outback except the Limited. Which actually wears taller tires than the Wilderness Edition at 225/60/18 or a factory spec of 28.8". So on the Wilderness Edition there is somewhere around a half inch of actual lift from the suspension and .35 inches from the tires. Which squares nicely with the Forester Wilderness Edition which gets the standard GO15's at 225/60/17 or 27.7" just like the highway tires and only has 9.2 inches of factory ground clearance because it doesn't have the .35 inches of tire lift, just the .50 inch of suspension lift. So, the two inch lift that Ironman and others are offering is pushing the suspension down into droop and additional 2 inches giving potentially 2.5 inches of total lift if they based them off the factory lift. But just two inches if based off the standard coils. Either way it still doesn't completely use up all the factory droop so it'll be fine. Now, switching out to the Nitto's was a good idea because of the lighter weight. KO2's are too heavy for almost every CUV application. Not because of fuel economy as same size tires will always perform about the same unless the weight is dramatically different or the tread pattern is TSL Swamper aggressive as you found out. But rotational mass is harder to handle when stopping whether on level ground or when a tire comes to an abrupt halt due to terrain which is more likely with a larger and heavier tire.. It's easier to break stuff with a heavier tire and components wear out more quickly. Put it this way, the typical KO2 245/65/17 everybody puts on these things is 46% heavier than the heaviest tire Subaru puts on the Outback from the factory. Whereas the Nitto is a hair less than 13% heavier. But folks really need to research their options as you can get much more aggressive tires in the 235/65/17 size at the same weight as the Nitto. The 235/65/17 is 29" mathematically and generally 29.1" to 29.3" as manufactured. So less than 2 tenths of an inch of ground clearance lost versus the 245 but without the need for spacers or new wheels. In the 235 size you can get a Wildpeak AT3W at 34#'s or the Toyo Open Country AT III also at 34#'s. Durability though more so than a super aggressive tread is what you need in most cases. It's surprising how little difference in traction there is between a mild A/T and an aggressive design in everything except mud. So, many tires will actually work. I've heard it said more than a few times that by the time you need more traction than a regular all terrain provides you need a mud terrain. I own a Subaru Impreza and it goes a lot of places haters pretend it won't. 186,000 miles on the CVT with no issues. Though I do think Subaru is missing a great opportunity by doubling down on the CVT and not developing a worthy 8 to 10 speed alternative as the AWD drive system is better than the tranny. The Outback is a great all around family and mild adventure car which is all Subaru ever designed it to be. Haters want to compare it to a built out Jeep Wrangler they don't own and say it isn't as good. Maybe not. But it's better than the imaginary Jeep they don't have. Again, I don't think you're trying to mislead people but when giving out information publicly, unless you're running for office, it's important to be accurate.
I appreciate your well thought out comment, but I’m going to refrain from picking it apart in an effort to avoid a internet battle about your perception of facts vs mine. We appreciate the input!
@@roamingwithjosh I'm not really an internet battle sort of guy. But I will re-read my comments if the host thinks I'm off base and you obviously do. And I will admit when I'm wrong or simply overstated my case as I do that sometimes and I know it. So I'm looking at the first comment about the Power Wagon and since I couldn't remember the exact measurements I went back to the sources and found that when measured to the differentials 4 Wheel Parts test mule had 9.25 inches of clearance under the front differential and 8.25 inches of clearance under the rear differential. They even commented about getting the rear diff hung up to the point of stopping the vehicle. The Truck King RUclips channel measured roughly the same rear clearance at 8.3 inches but they didn't measure the front. Turns out I was being generous at 9 inches at the rear. The 14.2 inches stock is a RAM marketing ploy measured from the highest suspension point above the low part of the differentials they could find. Actual ground clearance is measured from the lowest central portion of the vehicle and on a solid axle vehicle that is invariably the rear diff. Heck, I've seen some guys on RUclips measuring the height to their rocker panels and calling that ground clearance. Again, RAM is at fault here and should never market the vehicle like this as it's blatantly false. Heck, just taking half the diameter of the ring gear with no housing around it away from the half the diameter of the stock 33" tire size only gives a possible 10.75 inches and a ring gear with no carrier is just a paper weight. Also, the Power Wagon does have significantly lower tow and payload ratings than it's stablemates. This is a function of the softer suspension. Same with the Ford Raptor. Same with off road versions of every pickup on the market. As for the wheel travel you have a factory neutral position or factory set ride height. Maximum compression or up travel is defined by a fully compressed bump stop and extension or droop travel is reached in absence of other limiting factors when either the ball joints or the cv axles bind whichever comes first, usually the ball joints. The distance between these two maximums is potential wheel travel and it is almost never full achieved because you simply don't want to maximally extend your suspension to the point of ball joint or axle bind. So limits are often set via sway bars and sometimes shock travel as well as limiting straps or even droop bump stops. Disconnect the sway bars in pretty much any vehicle and you'll get more wheel travel. But only to the point of the next limiting factor. Using an extended travel shock may allow additional travel if it's available to be used but it doesn't create additional travel. Semantics? Perhaps. In any case, if the factory sway bar is the limiting factor and it's still connected without extended links then you will not gain this potential additional travel no matter how long the new shock may be. And, finally, a spring that does not allow full compression limits full travel so, yes, you can actually lose travel by adding a lift depending on a variety of factors most people never consider. Not saying you didn't consider them but most do not. The GVWR for legal purposes does not change just because the springs can technically bear more weight. You may just be after less sag within the same weight limitations as the factory vehicle allows. Nothing wrong with that. And I understand that you did not say adding the higher rate springs increased the GVWR but you said the vehicle would carry more load. This is an example where more information and context is needed. You aren't wrong but many will assume that adding higher rate springs now means they can more weight by a factor of the additional spring rate over what they could from the factory. Watch a Timbren SES video where they state just because their SES helper springs increase the spring rate that does not mean your vehicles GVWR has increased. More to hauling weight than springs rates. I suspect you know that though but not everyone does. It's more a legal matter that will almost never come into play. But in the case of a serious accident beware if you were overloaded and thought it was okay because of the new springs. As for the tires, well, that one is open for debate. Tire choice is related to a great many factors as you mentioned in your video about the Nitto tires. I've seen traction tests done on the same tires by different entities on different vehicles in different conditions and, as you might expect, they get different results. But tires with similar use cases tend to perform pretty similarly off road. On road is where they separate themselves. But in tires, to each their own unless they specify a need that their current choice doesn't meet. Maybe it was the semantics of things. But sometimes ideas need more complete explanations. They aren't necessarily wrong but without full context they aren't truly useful either. Good luck with the build and the channel.
I did not do a wheel spacer. I did the Primitive Racing 1/2” front and 3/4” rear strut spacer. It’s the polymer spacers. My thought was no metal on metal so less vibration transfer to frame. I plan on stealing your wheels at some point, I do like those LP’s. I’m trying to figure out if I want to throw a torque locking in.
Looks really nice. The first Iron Man review a while back showed that the lift in rear was great until you loaded it up with gear and then it lowered back down as if it didn’t have a lift. They admitted it was a bit soft, from what I was told, and were hoping to come out with a lift that would hold under load. PLEASE take measurements before you load it up and then after you fully load it with all you would take on an outing. Also very interested in knowing where you are able to get it aligned. I assume Iron Man provides new specs for the alignment person to use? Thanks for sharing the fun!
From what I know, Ironman came out with the spec C springs that are specifically designed for more load. I put the tire carrier on as well as the spare tire and didn’t notice any sag at all and that thing with the tire is nearly 125lb, so that’s positive news so far. I will make a video showing how the springs do under heavy load. That’s a great idea! Subarus only have a camber bolt and I took it to the tire discounters I always go to and they nailed it first try. Thanks for the feedback
Hi Josh, I’ve installed the same lift kit on my Wilderness. I’ve discovered a problem and informed Ironman. They are looking into it. Take a look at the clearance between the exhaust pipe and the CV boot by the differential. I’ve only got about 1/8” clearance. I’ll be installing some aftermarket exhaust hangers at the mufflers to resolve. Ironman said they could not provide me with their hangers because they are packaged in a “kit”. The initial response from them was that it is not a problem. After I sent some pictures, they said they would look into it. Take a look at your install and see what kind of clearance you have. I’d be interested to learn what your status is. Thanks, Scott
When you get a chance to check your clearance, take note of the exhaust hanger right by the diff. You will find it fully compressed. It is actually pushing down on the exhaust instead of holding it up.
All fixed. I went out to Amazon and ordered 3mirrors EPDM Exhaust Hangers Universal 4 Holes 12cm 0.47" Insulator Bracket Bushing Mount Adjustable Muffler Shock Absorber for Cars Truck Jeep SUV Upgrade. I used the longest hole position when installing. Clearance to the CV boot went from a little over 1/8” to one inch. These hangers worked perfectly. I also purchased the hanger removal tool found on Amazon. It made the swap very easy and it took about 15 minutes. A little silicone lube helps as well.
looks good! Did you have to go get everything realigned professionally after the install? you made the comment about how your camber was off on the front after installing
Hey Josh, this is Mark from Palubaru_Adventures. You're going to love it! I am curious if you had it aligned with or without the tire carrier and wheel/tire re-installed? I am still debating if I want to have Ironman send me the Spec-C's for the rear. As you know, I have the DirtCom carrier with a wheel and tire and didn't see any sag with the standard lift coils, but I didn't have my fridge, fridge slide, power supply or gear in when I had mine aligned. I am curious to see how it handles when it's all loaded up and if it effects the alignment. Since this is a daily driver I also didn't want it to be too stiff. Hit me up next time you're here in Utah. I'll make time to have a chance to compare each vehicle.
Hey, mark! I didn’t have it aligned with the carrier on, but after putting it on I noticed no difference in the alignment. We will absolutely give you a ring when we make it back!
Hello, I appreciate all of your videos and I think i've watched them all. I bought a 2022 OBW in Geyser Blue and I would like to get the ironman 4x4 suspension and the Nitto Nomad 245/65/17 added to the car. Just want to confirm that the increased height from the ironman 4x4 suspension adds 2 inches to both front and rear? I read somewhere that the suspension only adds 1.25 inch for the wilderness trim. Also, because I do not plan on towing anything other than attaching a bike carrier to my hitch, would you recommend I get the medium load and not the Spec-Cs? Also, do you get any rubbing from the Nitto Nomad tires in the wheel well?
Hey, Richard the tires will fit with it without the lift and I read the same thing about the 1.25” increase in ride height and that was not my case. I did get 2 full inches of additional ride height and I still have that same 2”. I would definitely recommend getting the medium load. The spec c is very stiff and borderline uncomfortable to drive. Thanks for watching!
It's really hard to get the parts in Australia as the Subaru mods markets are too small. The order from the US has just arrived and finally will have them installed next Monday. Just curious does it make a huge difference on offroad capability please?
Hey can you please comment a bit about how it feels on washboard roads and over speed bumps compared to the stock wilderness suspension? I noticed a big difference with the previous model stock suspension and wilderness stock suspension... curious how this differs in performance overall but specifically related to washboard dirt road areas and speed bumps all over?
Awesome! I want to do the same. I didn’t hear you mention anything about the LP Adventure 2 inch lift? Wasn’t that on the OBW originally? Did you add the IronMan 4x4 lift on top of it? Also… I like the Garmin, I just got the Epix 2. I’m excited to see you test the OBW!!!!
Won't that mess up the original design effectivness? (and make it wear out or break sooner??) Curious to see what happens over time-- please make another video later after about 6 months using this. ONe guy on here has that-- but he also installed a LOCKER-- and cvt cooler, and a few other things.... check it out.
Did you ever notice any thuds or clunks in the front or rear in your original equipment suspension set up while off-road or going over bumps/speed bumps? If so what do you think it was?
I absolutely did and my wife thought I was crazy. I still don’t know for sure what it was, but I think it was the suspension bottoming out. It sounded like a loud thud in the rear!
@@roamingwithjosh, I heard it once or twice in the front as well. It scared the crap out of me it was so loud. I’ve heard bottoming out but also heard topping out could be the reason.
To be more clear, I think the suspension hit its max “droop” and that was the sound I was hearing. So bottoming out would have been the incorrect statement. Since the Ironman lift we haven’t had that issue. Hope that’s more clear!
Ahh exactly. When my OBW is fully loaded with passenger/cargo I don't have that trouble. Maybe the back of the car is not heavy enough for that suspension.
Hi Josh I just received my kit and went with the SPEC-C on both front and rear. I wanted to know how you were able to verify the invoice receipt Ironman4x4 give as an email match what you physically received? Only reason why I ask is some 6th gen owners in the forums received the standard when they ordered the SPEC-C. One even went as far as installing it to find that their rears was wrong and sagging on a trip. Love your wilderness content BTW.
Hey, Dude! Appreciate the kind words. I had to call them and make sure what I got was correct and they were able to confirm it. The invoice they send is less than helpful in identifying the difference.
Not yet tho liking may get one thinking the stock suspension is just. Crap for me and causing somthing to rattle under the dash or somthing mounted somewhere
It is also suitable for the Touring model. email info@adventurerigshop.com and I'm sure they will be able to help. If you in fact order, uses code nomad to save 5%.
You actually only get an additional 1.2 inches, The strut difference was 2" difference from the Original Outback model, but the struts on the wilderness were already .8inch longer.
@@roamingwithjosh in terms of the suspension, Greg0 is correct, you'd only have a gain of 1.2 inches. but if you have fatter tires, that will factor in obviously. the regular Outback/Outback XT and the Outback Wilderness have the same chassis, with the Wilderness just having .8 inch longer struts from the factory, so when you are replacing those factory struts with the Ironman 4x4, you will have the same ride height as a regular outback with the same Ironman 4x4.
I was looking at the iron man site and did not found anything specific to the wilderness , are the strut really longer by 2 inches over the wilderness one ?
You won't find a wilderness specific lift. It's under the Outback section, but states it fits the wilderness. I didn't measure the struts, but at first glance I would say yes they are.
@@roamingwithjosh As you measure 33.25 distance between ground and top of back wheel well , what would be this distance now after the lift installed ?? Ironman rep. told me i would gain 1.25 inches instead of 2 as the wilderness is already lifted at the factory .75 inches and the 2 inches figured apply to a standard Outback . My wilderness also measure 33.25 with 245 tires and stock suspension . Insight ??
With the spec c we gained 3” of lift in the rear. That’s before any settling or weight was added. Figure with gear loaded you will probably see 2” additional. I can’t comment on the standard Ironman set up because I have the heavy duty rear springs.
You use the factory camber bolts. I took it to tire discounters to have them get it perfect, we just tossed the bolts back in after the lift was done knowing I was taking it to get aligned.
Did you need to make any alterations to fit that size tires with the ironman lift? That's a bit bigger than what most people i see running on their crosstrek with a 2" lift. Is it because of the wilderness package? Are the wheel wells a bit bigger with this package. I am holding off until next year to see what the crosstrek wilderness looks like before i buy. Great video, tons of information. I would 100% go this route rather than spacers even though i don't offroad seems a bit better option.
Hey, Brian! This is the Outback wilderness not the crosstrek, I’m not sure if Subaru has released a crosstrek version of the wilderness yet. Nothing needed to be done at all to make the tires fit even before the lift was installed. Hope that helps!
@@roamingwithjosh yeah sorry i should have explained that better. i was just comparing lifted Subaru to lifted Subaru. The wilderness crosstrek is supposed to come out next year. The wheel diameter of what most people use on a lifted Subaru is about 29" where those are 29.5" which is why i asked about the alterations like plastic trimming etc etc. Thanks a lot man.
How are you liking the spec c in the back so far? I know it says on their site that if you get the spec c’s and you’re not constantly loaded up they will be stiff. I believe your wife daily drives the OBW and I can’t imagine it’s loaded down daily. Is the back pretty stiff?
The back is really stiff and she doesn't love the way it rides. After putting that spare tire carrier on it helped out a lot. I'm working on the plans for the fridge slide and drawer system now so once that's done she will be loaded out most of the time with a few hundred pounds.
@@roamingwithjosh Awesome information thank you. I'm conflicted with mine and what I want to order I guess. I won't be towing a trailer as of yet, and I'm sticking with stock tire size for at least the next couple years I'd guess. I would however like the additional ground clearance for a couple of spots we go to. I'm thinking the regular shocks will be fine with the ironman lift. Your OBW looks amazing though! Thanks again.
No worries! If you’re going to do the lift I would consider new tires. There’s going to be a lot of space in that wheel well and you’re going to see through to the frame where the paint it. I don’t know if you will like the way it looks being that tall with the already smaller geolanders. Just something to consider!
@@roamingwithjosh Definitely considering all options! The problem I have is my wife is not as on board with changing things out on a brand new car as I am 😂 so it’s a process for me lol. I have to do stuff piece by piece rather than all at once.
It did in fact lift my wilderness 2” and it hasn’t settled under 2”. My guess is that Ironman suspension system aren’t all perfect and based on the comments, a lot of people have had much different experiences. Thanks for the comment!
New subscriber here. Did you use jack stand pads and/or floor jack pucks with grooves to avoid damaging the pinch welds? Also, is it safe to use the center jacking points? Looks like you have an aftermarket rear diff cover. Anyway, there seems to be no consensus on the forums. BTW, are those OEM mud guards? And what is the lug nut torque spec? I know those are probably dumb questions for most Subaru owners, but I’ve come from the German car scene, and the jacking system is way different and we use lug bolts. I typically do more searching, but winter is fast approaching, and I need to do a couple things to this car before it snows. I just got my OBW and I don’t have tons of time to search. You seem like an expert regarding this vehicle, so I am coming straight to you.😊 Thank you.
Can you clarify this. I have read so many different things. When it comes to subaru if i have a brand new Subaru and i upgrade my suspension doeit void the warranty or will the subary dealership void any claims because i changed my suspension to a none subaru part?
That all comes down to your dealer. It seems they have the autonomy to do what they wish when it comes to the lift. My dealer has performed warranty work with no issue, even after my lift was installed.
Nice build! Can you give me the actual rim and tire sizes you used? Also, we’re there any other rim brands and designs you were considering before you chose your LP’s?
@@roamingwithjosh Also, you went with the medium load struts for the front. How are they now? Any sag now and would you have made the same decision if you did it again? One more thing, where did you get the spare tire carrier and was it ready to mount? Thanks again!
@@roamingwithjosh I hear ya. I've been running the BFGs on my truck for ten years now. Only ever had a flat once on a set of warn out KO1s. Never had a flat on any KO2s yet. Heavy offroad use. Was considering those new Nittos for my Crosstrek, but they seem a bit heavy for it.
Depending on what you do with the crosstrek, I would probably get something different. The tires are great, depending on your use. Some people love the geolanders, but my assumption is that they don't take their vehicles very far off the beaten path.
When the 2024 4Runner comes out you will have a good point, but the current 4Runners are slow and outdated so at the moment this vehicle is probably better in about every way.
I really struggle to understand the motivation behind lifting an Outback with a CVT transmission - I'd suggest figuring out how to install a winch because you're likely to get stuck. 😅 CVTs are not good for situations needing low speed torque - you're going to trash the transmission.
I would love nothing more then the opportunity to prove that statement wrong. I’m not a Subaru fan boy sticking up for the crappy CVT, I just think a lot of people have the wrong impression and with the right person behind the wheel these things will surprise you.
Subaru CVTs are a good option to offroad subarus, the cvt offers a lower "gear" or (drive) ratio for crawling than the 5speed auto and the manual trans subaru offers. Also the newest cvt subaru built in their Wilderness trim include stronger built cvts (thicker shafts, belts, gears etc) designed to handle offroad abuse, another huge thing is the CVT transmission cooler for the wilderness models. In fact the recent subaru CVTs have been plenty reliable. Nobody is claiming Subarus are gonna crawl like a jeep, but a good driver and a mild liftkit they will keep up with stocks 4x4 SUV's, while still getting better mpgs are cheaper maintenance and more comfortable on road.
OMG this guy clearly knows nothing about installing a lift. This is painful to watch! Completely disassembled the rear end wrong and did the hardest way in the book. Leave the wrenching to those that have common sense next time.
Before I traded my Crosstrek in for a gladiator I had the ironman 4x4 lift on it. And I can say I loved it. The lift did nothing but make the driving experience better and more clearance for larger tires. Very pleased with the company, and quality from Ironman.
I've gotten a lot of those same comments from people and that's why I ended up choosing this lift. Thanks for the input!
How’s the ride quality for a daily driver?
@@mdavidwagner it was great. Had no issues and it didn't really change the ride in my mind. If it was a bit stiffer I never noticed.
Did you have the spec-c on your trek? I'm looking into getting the ironmans but trying to find more info on them so I can choose which ones I should get.
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My son has the 2022 Outback Wilderness and I have the 2021 Crosstrek Sport Quetico. I recently did the full Bilstein Struts and shocks and Eibach springs .. 33" to the top of the front wheel well and 34" on the rear. My son has left his relatively stock as he enjoys camping with his girlfriend up in Minnesota. I'm here in AZ and have done Death Valley 4 times and Moab 3 times with the Trek .. once you start doing the off road stuff the suspension mod's are the best thing you can do other then tires. I'm running 225/65 17" BKG KO2's on stock rims with 1" spacers all around. I send my son your videos so he can make some sound decisions. Liked the one wear you say to hold off putting stuff on your rig until you know you really need it .. winch for example. I am on the same page there .. 🤠
Right on! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the info… From Minnie
Awesome guys. My late father knew how to disassemble/overhaul and reassemble vehicles and my bros learned the skill from him.
Thank you! It's something I was never taught so I'm trying to learn.
Thanks for the clip on increasing the high on the Baru, looks awesome!
Am having a RallyTeK 2” lift on my 24 OBW and I know it will look amazing just like yours!
Happy Trails ✌️❤️
no worries!
I was running the standard version of the iromnan kit on my '19 forester, and loved almost everything except for the sag. Just purchased the spec-c for my forester wilderness, and it'll be here tomorrow!
Right on! Spec C is the goat.
@@roamingwithjosh can't wait to get it installed! Feel like I can't do anything fun yet at its current height haha.
Got it from your other video! LP7 wheels and BF All Terrain T/A KO2 tires. Such a cool machine. Driving a WRX now but had two Outbacks in the past. Loving this new Wilderness!
Right on! Thanks for the input!
Every since I watched Casey Ledelle's video a week or so ago I'm really wanting to do the Ironman lift on my wife's Crosstrek. She just wants a 2in lift and I was going to just do the spacer lift but this is overall so much better even if we aren't really going to off-road her Crosstrek. I will probably save up and do it though cause that's how I am, why do cheap when you can do something for more? Lol it's way better than just spacer lifts so it's totally worth the money.
I totally agree and in the next video I touch on the spacer lift concept. I think it’s a terrible idea for almost everyone. Thanks for the comment, Travis!
My neighbor has one he did the Ironman lift with Method wheels and 245/65/17 Maxxis Razor AT 811 that thing looks so bad ass and rides great! Also he's a single guy with a girlfriend and they go on trips every where. Don't fear the wagon single guys not just for family guys.😂😂😂
lololol Awesome!
Wooooh! This is one I've been waiting for. Great choice.
Thank you!
Thank you for a great video. Just put a Primitive Racing 1.5” lift onto wife’s Outback yesterday. Looking forward to the difference it makes, and to your next video!
Awesome! Thanks for the comment!
I was going to do the LP spacer kit on mine and you got me thinking . I am just waiting for the 2nd video and your comment to take my final decision .
That video is coming out on Sunday!
Looks cool. We just picked up our Outback Wilderness. Lovin it so far and definitely nicer than anticipated
Thank you and congrats on the OBW!
Wait till you start having problems with your infotainment
@TonydlP650 you have had issues?
A lot of people have channels on YT that spout misinformation unintentionally. They take information from press kits or old rumors and myths and repeat them. There's no malice or harm intended but it does make it difficult for people seeking real information to understand what a product or a vehicle might actually be capable of doing. First of all, your Power Wagon does NOT have 14.2 inches of ground clearance from the factory at the rear differential which is where every solid rear axle vehicle ever was measured from until RAM decided to measure from the highest point under the front axle tube and then pretend that meant the rear diff could also clear the 14 inch rock. Try it and you'll discover the truth. Guys who have actually measured the clearance to the rear diff get about 9 inches. Which is about right with 33" stock tires given how much the very large diff on the Power Wagon hangs below the center line of the tires. Adding full 37's would give you an additional 2 inches for a grand total of 11 inches to the diff give or take. Still not 14 as Ram claims or the 16 plus you stated in this video. The Power Wagon is still a worthy beast without the misleading marketing from RAM so I don't get the deception. Heck, Ford is doing the same sort of thing with tire sizes as their 315/70/17's on the Bronco and Raptor are actually 34.4 inches but they call them 35's. Sorry, but to round up you have to be at least half way there or more. Anyway, will it ever make a real difference? Probably not but rocks can't do math so imaginary numbers don't matter to them. In cases of serious wheeling know your real clearances everywhere.
Now, as for the Outback, yes, you will get increased ground clearance but not increased wheel travel. In an independent suspension setup without changing the length of the control arms you will have the same amount of wheel travel as you did from the factory you will just start your up travel from a position farther down in the droop travel. If the new springs are too stiff then you will actually lose wheel travel as the car will begin to lift up on the springs before the bump stops are reached which would be the factory point of maximum up travel. So you can actually lose wheel travel with a lift with the wrong spring rates. The Power Wagon is an example of engineers softening the spring rates to allow for full articulation so the tow rating and payload go down versus a standard RAM 2500. Power Wagon has 1560 pounds of max payload and 10,520 pounds of max towing. Versus a Laramie Crew Cab 4x4 with same engine at 3130 pounds of payload and 14,660 pounds of max tow capacity. There's likely very little in the way of maximum available wheel travel between the two but the softer springs in the Power Wagon allow it to use all it has available to it. By the way, regarding the additional spring rate in the rear of your Outback, just because you add more spring rate to the rear doesn't mean the GVWR changes. Legally anyway. Less sag for the same weight is cool though. And you will lose wheel travel. It's the nature of the compromise beast.
Anyway, back to the Outback. The Wilderness Edition comes stock with 225/65/17 Yokohama Go15's that measure to a manufactured spec of 28.5 inches. Or roughly seven tenths of an inch taller than the tires that come stock with every other version of the Outback except the Limited. Which actually wears taller tires than the Wilderness Edition at 225/60/18 or a factory spec of 28.8". So on the Wilderness Edition there is somewhere around a half inch of actual lift from the suspension and .35 inches from the tires. Which squares nicely with the Forester Wilderness Edition which gets the standard GO15's at 225/60/17 or 27.7" just like the highway tires and only has 9.2 inches of factory ground clearance because it doesn't have the .35 inches of tire lift, just the .50 inch of suspension lift. So, the two inch lift that Ironman and others are offering is pushing the suspension down into droop and additional 2 inches giving potentially 2.5 inches of total lift if they based them off the factory lift. But just two inches if based off the standard coils. Either way it still doesn't completely use up all the factory droop so it'll be fine.
Now, switching out to the Nitto's was a good idea because of the lighter weight. KO2's are too heavy for almost every CUV application. Not because of fuel economy as same size tires will always perform about the same unless the weight is dramatically different or the tread pattern is TSL Swamper aggressive as you found out. But rotational mass is harder to handle when stopping whether on level ground or when a tire comes to an abrupt halt due to terrain which is more likely with a larger and heavier tire.. It's easier to break stuff with a heavier tire and components wear out more quickly. Put it this way, the typical KO2 245/65/17 everybody puts on these things is 46% heavier than the heaviest tire Subaru puts on the Outback from the factory. Whereas the Nitto is a hair less than 13% heavier. But folks really need to research their options as you can get much more aggressive tires in the 235/65/17 size at the same weight as the Nitto. The 235/65/17 is 29" mathematically and generally 29.1" to 29.3" as manufactured. So less than 2 tenths of an inch of ground clearance lost versus the 245 but without the need for spacers or new wheels. In the 235 size you can get a Wildpeak AT3W at 34#'s or the Toyo Open Country AT III also at 34#'s. Durability though more so than a super aggressive tread is what you need in most cases. It's surprising how little difference in traction there is between a mild A/T and an aggressive design in everything except mud. So, many tires will actually work. I've heard it said more than a few times that by the time you need more traction than a regular all terrain provides you need a mud terrain. I own a Subaru Impreza and it goes a lot of places haters pretend it won't. 186,000 miles on the CVT with no issues. Though I do think Subaru is missing a great opportunity by doubling down on the CVT and not developing a worthy 8 to 10 speed alternative as the AWD drive system is better than the tranny. The Outback is a great all around family and mild adventure car which is all Subaru ever designed it to be. Haters want to compare it to a built out Jeep Wrangler they don't own and say it isn't as good. Maybe not. But it's better than the imaginary Jeep they don't have.
Again, I don't think you're trying to mislead people but when giving out information publicly, unless you're running for office, it's important to be accurate.
I appreciate your well thought out comment, but I’m going to refrain from picking it apart in an effort to avoid a internet battle about your perception of facts vs mine. We appreciate the input!
@@roamingwithjosh I'm not really an internet battle sort of guy. But I will re-read my comments if the host thinks I'm off base and you obviously do. And I will admit when I'm wrong or simply overstated my case as I do that sometimes and I know it.
So I'm looking at the first comment about the Power Wagon and since I couldn't remember the exact measurements I went back to the sources and found that when measured to the differentials 4 Wheel Parts test mule had 9.25 inches of clearance under the front differential and 8.25 inches of clearance under the rear differential. They even commented about getting the rear diff hung up to the point of stopping the vehicle. The Truck King RUclips channel measured roughly the same rear clearance at 8.3 inches but they didn't measure the front. Turns out I was being generous at 9 inches at the rear. The 14.2 inches stock is a RAM marketing ploy measured from the highest suspension point above the low part of the differentials they could find. Actual ground clearance is measured from the lowest central portion of the vehicle and on a solid axle vehicle that is invariably the rear diff. Heck, I've seen some guys on RUclips measuring the height to their rocker panels and calling that ground clearance. Again, RAM is at fault here and should never market the vehicle like this as it's blatantly false. Heck, just taking half the diameter of the ring gear with no housing around it away from the half the diameter of the stock 33" tire size only gives a possible 10.75 inches and a ring gear with no carrier is just a paper weight. Also, the Power Wagon does have significantly lower tow and payload ratings than it's stablemates. This is a function of the softer suspension. Same with the Ford Raptor. Same with off road versions of every pickup on the market.
As for the wheel travel you have a factory neutral position or factory set ride height. Maximum compression or up travel is defined by a fully compressed bump stop and extension or droop travel is reached in absence of other limiting factors when either the ball joints or the cv axles bind whichever comes first, usually the ball joints. The distance between these two maximums is potential wheel travel and it is almost never full achieved because you simply don't want to maximally extend your suspension to the point of ball joint or axle bind. So limits are often set via sway bars and sometimes shock travel as well as limiting straps or even droop bump stops. Disconnect the sway bars in pretty much any vehicle and you'll get more wheel travel. But only to the point of the next limiting factor. Using an extended travel shock may allow additional travel if it's available to be used but it doesn't create additional travel. Semantics? Perhaps. In any case, if the factory sway bar is the limiting factor and it's still connected without extended links then you will not gain this potential additional travel no matter how long the new shock may be. And, finally, a spring that does not allow full compression limits full travel so, yes, you can actually lose travel by adding a lift depending on a variety of factors most people never consider. Not saying you didn't consider them but most do not.
The GVWR for legal purposes does not change just because the springs can technically bear more weight. You may just be after less sag within the same weight limitations as the factory vehicle allows. Nothing wrong with that. And I understand that you did not say adding the higher rate springs increased the GVWR but you said the vehicle would carry more load. This is an example where more information and context is needed. You aren't wrong but many will assume that adding higher rate springs now means they can more weight by a factor of the additional spring rate over what they could from the factory. Watch a Timbren SES video where they state just because their SES helper springs increase the spring rate that does not mean your vehicles GVWR has increased. More to hauling weight than springs rates. I suspect you know that though but not everyone does. It's more a legal matter that will almost never come into play. But in the case of a serious accident beware if you were overloaded and thought it was okay because of the new springs.
As for the tires, well, that one is open for debate. Tire choice is related to a great many factors as you mentioned in your video about the Nitto tires. I've seen traction tests done on the same tires by different entities on different vehicles in different conditions and, as you might expect, they get different results. But tires with similar use cases tend to perform pretty similarly off road. On road is where they separate themselves. But in tires, to each their own unless they specify a need that their current choice doesn't meet.
Maybe it was the semantics of things. But sometimes ideas need more complete explanations. They aren't necessarily wrong but without full context they aren't truly useful either. Good luck with the build and the channel.
Put mine on with some 1/2 spacers a few weeks ago. Absolutely love it. Rides and handles better than factory in my opinion.
I would have to agree! Did you do a 1/2” wheel spacer?
I did not do a wheel spacer. I did the Primitive Racing 1/2” front and 3/4” rear strut spacer. It’s the polymer spacers. My thought was no metal on metal so less vibration transfer to frame. I plan on stealing your wheels at some point, I do like those LP’s. I’m trying to figure out if I want to throw a torque locking in.
Looks really nice. The first Iron Man review a while back showed that the lift in rear was great until you loaded it up with gear and then it lowered back down as if it didn’t have a lift. They admitted it was a bit soft, from what I was told, and were hoping to come out with a lift that would hold under load. PLEASE take measurements before you load it up and then after you fully load it with all you would take on an outing. Also very interested in knowing where you are able to get it aligned. I assume Iron Man provides new specs for the alignment person to use? Thanks for sharing the fun!
From what I know, Ironman came out with the spec C springs that are specifically designed for more load. I put the tire carrier on as well as the spare tire and didn’t notice any sag at all and that thing with the tire is nearly 125lb, so that’s positive news so far. I will make a video showing how the springs do under heavy load. That’s a great idea! Subarus only have a camber bolt and I took it to the tire discounters I always go to and they nailed it first try. Thanks for the feedback
Super cool tats dude. I bet they'll look great when you're 80.
Thanks for the comment!
Hi Josh, I’ve installed the same lift kit on my Wilderness. I’ve discovered a problem and informed Ironman. They are looking into it. Take a look at the clearance between the exhaust pipe and the CV boot by the differential. I’ve only got about 1/8” clearance. I’ll be installing some aftermarket exhaust hangers at the mufflers to resolve. Ironman said they could not provide me with their hangers because they are packaged in a “kit”. The initial response from them was that it is not a problem. After I sent some pictures, they said they would look into it. Take a look at your install and see what kind of clearance you have. I’d be interested to learn what your status is.
Thanks,
Scott
Additional info for other readers - The Ironman kit for the Wilderness does not come with hangers like the Crosstrek kit.
Thanks for the info! I’ll take a look this afternoon.
When you get a chance to check your clearance, take note of the exhaust hanger right by the diff. You will find it fully compressed. It is actually pushing down on the exhaust instead of holding it up.
All fixed. I went out to Amazon and ordered 3mirrors EPDM Exhaust Hangers Universal 4 Holes 12cm 0.47" Insulator Bracket Bushing Mount Adjustable Muffler Shock Absorber for Cars Truck Jeep SUV Upgrade. I used the longest hole position when installing. Clearance to the CV boot went from a little over 1/8” to one inch. These hangers worked perfectly. I also purchased the hanger removal tool found on Amazon. It made the swap very easy and it took about 15 minutes. A little silicone lube helps as well.
Looking forward to seeing a long term review at the end of your summer adventures.
I’ll put that one on the list!
Keep an eye out for those pesky porn bots as well@@roamingwithjosh.
@@roamingwithjosh how's the cv system holding up? My main curiosity when i seen that tire lean. Did it negatively effect wheel travel?
@@jesseredfield8194 Everything is working perfectly so far!
Thank you for making this video. BTW… those are the front struts you’re holding up.
Shows how much I actually know. Thanks for the comment!
@@roamingwithjosh you know more about overlanding than I do. That’s why I learn from your videos! ✌️
Man..I need a Matt in my life 😆
LOL we all need a matt!
Whish they would come out with one for the SJ Forester XT like they hinted at 2 years ago.
looks good! Did you have to go get everything realigned professionally after the install? you made the comment about how your camber was off on the front after installing
I did! We took it to tire discounters and they got it within .5 of a degree.
You should always do an alignment after suspension work, even if it's just changing out your bushings.
Looking really good Bro
Thank you!
Can you get a different color spring
No
Looks great!
Thank you!
Looks amazing!
Thank you!
Have measured the new approach, breakover and departure angles? The big bugaboo for me is the stock approach angle of the Wilderness.
I haven’t measured that, but I definitely will.
I wish ironman made lifts for the 2014 Forester 2.5i
Thank you for info!!
No worries!
Like the looks. Put our Outback up with a 2 in left and taller Geolander and LP Adventure Wheels. We like it for light off road . Thanks for sharing
Awesome! Thanks for the comment!
Hey Josh, this is Mark from Palubaru_Adventures. You're going to love it! I am curious if you had it aligned with or without the tire carrier and wheel/tire re-installed? I am still debating if I want to have Ironman send me the Spec-C's for the rear. As you know, I have the DirtCom carrier with a wheel and tire and didn't see any sag with the standard lift coils, but I didn't have my fridge, fridge slide, power supply or gear in when I had mine aligned. I am curious to see how it handles when it's all loaded up and if it effects the alignment. Since this is a daily driver I also didn't want it to be too stiff. Hit me up next time you're here in Utah. I'll make time to have a chance to compare each vehicle.
Hey, mark! I didn’t have it aligned with the carrier on, but after putting it on I noticed no difference in the alignment. We will absolutely give you a ring when we make it back!
Hello, I appreciate all of your videos and I think i've watched them all. I bought a 2022 OBW in Geyser Blue and I would like to get the ironman 4x4 suspension and the Nitto Nomad 245/65/17 added to the car. Just want to confirm that the increased height from the ironman 4x4 suspension adds 2 inches to both front and rear? I read somewhere that the suspension only adds 1.25 inch for the wilderness trim. Also, because I do not plan on towing anything other than attaching a bike carrier to my hitch, would you recommend I get the medium load and not the Spec-Cs?
Also, do you get any rubbing from the Nitto Nomad tires in the wheel well?
Hey, Richard the tires will fit with it without the lift and I read the same thing about the 1.25” increase in ride height and that was not my case. I did get 2 full inches of additional ride height and I still have that same 2”. I would definitely recommend getting the medium load. The spec c is very stiff and borderline uncomfortable to drive. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for posting. Biggest question I have. How’s the ride quality for everyday driving.
It’s not nearly as comfortable. Have those springs in the rear makes it a lot stiffer.
Are they the higher rate spring?
This only for the wilderness? Non of the other outbacks?
The ironman suspension is also for the standard outback.
What year vehicle? I didn’t catch it… looks killer btw! 👍
It's really hard to get the parts in Australia as the Subaru mods markets are too small. The order from the US has just arrived and finally will have them installed next Monday. Just curious does it make a huge difference on offroad capability please?
It will give you more ground clearance and down travel, but the capability comes more from the drivers experience.
Matt get over here and install your brother in laws 6.5in Jeep lift 😂
Hey can you please comment a bit about how it feels on washboard roads and over speed bumps compared to the stock wilderness suspension? I noticed a big difference with the previous model stock suspension and wilderness stock suspension... curious how this differs in performance overall but specifically related to washboard dirt road areas and speed bumps all over?
The Ironman suspension makes those roads less enjoyable then the stock suspension. Stock is far more enjoyable to drive.
Awesome! I want to do the same. I didn’t hear you mention anything about the LP Adventure 2 inch lift? Wasn’t that on the OBW originally? Did you add the IronMan 4x4 lift on top of it? Also… I like the Garmin, I just got the Epix 2. I’m excited to see you test the OBW!!!!
I never put on an Lp lift, I would advise ever putting a spacer lift on if you intend to push your OBW. Appreciate the comment!
@@roamingwithjosh I don’t know why I thought you did? Sorry about that lol. I’m freaking sold on this setup, looking forward to more videos.
All good! We appreciate the support!
Won't that mess up the original design effectivness? (and make it wear out or break sooner??) Curious to see what happens over time-- please make another video later after about 6 months using this. ONe guy on here has that-- but he also installed a LOCKER-- and cvt cooler, and a few other things.... check it out.
Right on! I already made another video on the suspension update. Thanks for the info!
@@roamingwithjosh Super-- I'll go watch!!! THANKS.
Love the build, I would have used blue thread locker on the bolts.
I couldn’t find anywhere that said to do that so we left it alone. Thanks for the comment!
Did you ever notice any thuds or clunks in the front or rear in your original equipment suspension set up while off-road or going over bumps/speed bumps? If so what do you think it was?
I absolutely did and my wife thought I was crazy. I still don’t know for sure what it was, but I think it was the suspension bottoming out. It sounded like a loud thud in the rear!
@@roamingwithjosh, I heard it once or twice in the front as well. It scared the crap out of me it was so loud. I’ve heard bottoming out but also heard topping out could be the reason.
To be more clear, I think the suspension hit its max “droop” and that was the sound I was hearing. So bottoming out would have been the incorrect statement. Since the Ironman lift we haven’t had that issue. Hope that’s more clear!
Ahh exactly. When my OBW is fully loaded with passenger/cargo I don't have that trouble. Maybe the back of the car is not heavy enough for that suspension.
Tebrikler..Güzel ve daha güçlü duruyor..Bu kiti takmaktaki amacınız daha yüksek olmasımı ya da daha fazla ağırlık taşıması mı?
Hi Josh I just received my kit and went with the SPEC-C on both front and rear. I wanted to know how you were able to verify the invoice receipt Ironman4x4 give as an email match what you physically received? Only reason why I ask is some 6th gen owners in the forums received the standard when they ordered the SPEC-C. One even went as far as installing it to find that their rears was wrong and sagging on a trip. Love your wilderness content BTW.
Hey, Dude! Appreciate the kind words. I had to call them and make sure what I got was correct and they were able to confirm it. The invoice they send is less than helpful in identifying the difference.
Ty for the help. Keep up the great content and safe travels. Let me know if you ever in NorCal would love to hang with you.
Not yet tho liking may get one thinking the stock suspension is just. Crap for me and causing somthing to rattle under the dash or somthing mounted somewhere
Can u use this same lift kit on an Outback Touring? Or is it only compatible with the wilderness trim? Thanks
It is also suitable for the Touring model. email info@adventurerigshop.com and I'm sure they will be able to help. If you in fact order, uses code nomad to save 5%.
Great videos! What LP Aventure wheel model is that?
LP7
What's the offset of your LP's? 35's are tough to come by. wondering if another offset would work.
I'd have to look them up again, but I think they're close to the 35.
You actually only get an additional 1.2 inches, The strut difference was 2" difference from the Original Outback model, but the struts on the wilderness were already .8inch longer.
The vehicles 3” taller in the rear before any settling. Unfortunately I didn’t measure the front, but I would be the car that it’s more then 1.2”.
@@roamingwithjosh in terms of the suspension, Greg0 is correct, you'd only have a gain of 1.2 inches. but if you have fatter tires, that will factor in obviously. the regular Outback/Outback XT and the Outback Wilderness have the same chassis, with the Wilderness just having .8 inch longer struts from the factory, so when you are replacing those factory struts with the Ironman 4x4, you will have the same ride height as a regular outback with the same Ironman 4x4.
I was looking at the iron man site and did not found anything specific to the wilderness , are the strut really longer by 2 inches over the wilderness one ?
You won't find a wilderness specific lift. It's under the Outback section, but states it fits the wilderness. I didn't measure the struts, but at first glance I would say yes they are.
@@roamingwithjosh As you measure 33.25 distance between ground and top of back wheel well , what would be this distance now after the lift installed ?? Ironman rep. told me i would gain 1.25 inches instead of 2 as the wilderness is already lifted at the factory .75 inches and the 2 inches figured apply to a standard Outback . My wilderness also measure 33.25 with 245 tires and stock suspension . Insight ??
With the spec c we gained 3” of lift in the rear. That’s before any settling or weight was added. Figure with gear loaded you will probably see 2” additional. I can’t comment on the standard Ironman set up because I have the heavy duty rear springs.
Does the kit come with camber bolts for alignment? How does all that work?
You use the factory camber bolts. I took it to tire discounters to have them get it perfect, we just tossed the bolts back in after the lift was done knowing I was taking it to get aligned.
@@roamingwithjosh Thanks for replying! Cool seeing what yall are doing
No worries at all, dude! Appreciate the support!
Did you need to make any alterations to fit that size tires with the ironman lift? That's a bit bigger than what most people i see running on their crosstrek with a 2" lift. Is it because of the wilderness package? Are the wheel wells a bit bigger with this package. I am holding off until next year to see what the crosstrek wilderness looks like before i buy. Great video, tons of information. I would 100% go this route rather than spacers even though i don't offroad seems a bit better option.
Hey, Brian! This is the Outback wilderness not the crosstrek, I’m not sure if Subaru has released a crosstrek version of the wilderness yet. Nothing needed to be done at all to make the tires fit even before the lift was installed. Hope that helps!
@@roamingwithjosh yeah sorry i should have explained that better. i was just comparing lifted Subaru to lifted Subaru. The wilderness crosstrek is supposed to come out next year. The wheel diameter of what most people use on a lifted Subaru is about 29" where those are 29.5" which is why i asked about the alterations like plastic trimming etc etc. Thanks a lot man.
No spacer go in the front?
No way
Nice! What about EyeSight though?
Still decent! Didn’t really notice a difference.
Question: how does this impact towing a trailer? +\-
I have the spec c rear suspension which is stiffer. So, for me, towing is better because I get less suspension sag and it feels more comfortable.
How are you liking the spec c in the back so far? I know it says on their site that if you get the spec c’s and you’re not constantly loaded up they will be stiff. I believe your wife daily drives the OBW and I can’t imagine it’s loaded down daily. Is the back pretty stiff?
The back is really stiff and she doesn't love the way it rides. After putting that spare tire carrier on it helped out a lot. I'm working on the plans for the fridge slide and drawer system now so once that's done she will be loaded out most of the time with a few hundred pounds.
@@roamingwithjosh Awesome information thank you. I'm conflicted with mine and what I want to order I guess. I won't be towing a trailer as of yet, and I'm sticking with stock tire size for at least the next couple years I'd guess. I would however like the additional ground clearance for a couple of spots we go to. I'm thinking the regular shocks will be fine with the ironman lift. Your OBW looks amazing though! Thanks again.
No worries! If you’re going to do the lift I would consider new tires. There’s going to be a lot of space in that wheel well and you’re going to see through to the frame where the paint it. I don’t know if you will like the way it looks being that tall with the already smaller geolanders. Just something to consider!
@@roamingwithjosh Definitely considering all options! The problem I have is my wife is not as on board with changing things out on a brand new car as I am 😂 so it’s a process for me lol. I have to do stuff piece by piece rather than all at once.
Good video except the ironman lift only lifts the outback wilderness 1.2" it is a 2" lift on a standard outback
It did in fact lift my wilderness 2” and it hasn’t settled under 2”. My guess is that Ironman suspension system aren’t all perfect and based on the comments, a lot of people have had much different experiences. Thanks for the comment!
is there any company that have air bags to go on the subaru outback?
Not sure!
New subscriber here.
Did you use jack stand pads and/or floor jack pucks with grooves to avoid damaging the pinch welds? Also, is it safe to use the center jacking points? Looks like you have an aftermarket rear diff cover. Anyway, there seems to be no consensus on the forums.
BTW, are those OEM mud guards? And what is the lug nut torque spec?
I know those are probably dumb questions for most Subaru owners, but I’ve come from the German car scene, and the jacking system is way different and we use lug bolts. I typically do more searching, but winter is fast approaching, and I need to do a couple things to this car before it snows. I just got my OBW and I don’t have tons of time to search. You seem like an expert regarding this vehicle, so I am coming straight to you.😊
Thank you.
No stand pads.
It’s safe to use center jack points.
Yes to oem mud guards.
90 ft lbs I believe.
Sorry for the delay! Hope that helps.
@@roamingwithjosh Thanks for the response. It really does help. I appreciate it.
how much mpg do you have after the lift? Just curious.
I haven’t reset it yet. I’ll do that tomorrow and see where she sits after 500ish miles
Can you clarify this. I have read so many different things. When it comes to subaru if i have a brand new Subaru and i upgrade my suspension doeit void the warranty or will the subary dealership void any claims because i changed my suspension to a none subaru part?
That all comes down to your dealer. It seems they have the autonomy to do what they wish when it comes to the lift. My dealer has performed warranty work with no issue, even after my lift was installed.
No thread sealer?...I too like to live dangerously!
LOL
Does this affect the warranty or anything?
There's conflicting information about that, and I don't know the answer because all dealers will say something different.
Nice build! Can you give me the actual rim and tire sizes you used? Also, we’re there any other rim brands and designs you were considering before you chose your LP’s?
Hey, Xavier! We have BFG KO2’s in a 245/65/17 for tires and the lp Aventure LP7’s 17x8 with a +35mm offset. Hope that helps!
To answer the second part of your question, we did consider method wheels as well, but ultimately decided on the lp Aventure wheels.
@@roamingwithjosh Thank you. It does! Any rubbing?
@@roamingwithjosh Also, you went with the medium load struts for the front. How are they now? Any sag now and would you have made the same decision if you did it again?
One more thing, where did you get the spare tire carrier and was it ready to mount? Thanks again!
No rubbing at all
Did you sell the stock wheels?
Not yet, but they’re for sale.
Does this lift dramatically change the angle of the cv axles? Increase wear?
I can’t say that I’ve noticed any additional wear. Time will tell tho.
Looks good!
Thank you!
This tires is good?
I love my tire setup, but some people have different opinions.
What size are your wheels ?
17" wheels
how does this effect Subaru eyesight?
I took it to Subaru to have it re-calibrated and everything works perfectly.
@@roamingwithjosh fantastic
I no you drive off road alot did ur car ever develop a front end rattle when driving over washboard dirt roads.
It has not
Damn mine has some anything rattling sound in drive side. And dealer cannot find anything nor can replicate it cause the dealer has no dirt around
@@jarrettrolff386 Do you have the ironman lift?
What tires are on it?
bfg KO2
Both rear and front spec-c?
I only went with spec C for the rear. They're really stiff and didn't want to feel like I was driving a tank.
Thanks. I’m planning to get one. I can’t decide if I go all spec C or all medium load
Just depends on what you carry with you and what you can live with ride wise. The spec c is extremely stiff when it’s unloaded.
I see the Nittos didn't last long lol
They’re fantastic road tires, but for the things I like to do I prefer to stay with what I know works. I’ll put them back on one day lol
@@roamingwithjosh I hear ya. I've been running the BFGs on my truck for ten years now. Only ever had a flat once on a set of warn out KO1s. Never had a flat on any KO2s yet. Heavy offroad use.
Was considering those new Nittos for my Crosstrek, but they seem a bit heavy for it.
Depending on what you do with the crosstrek, I would probably get something different. The tires are great, depending on your use. Some people love the geolanders, but my assumption is that they don't take their vehicles very far off the beaten path.
No way, the Subaru guy has a man bun?
Who would have thought?
Why would someone want a Subaru outback instead of something like a Toyota 4runner?
When the 2024 4Runner comes out you will have a good point, but the current 4Runners are slow and outdated so at the moment this vehicle is probably better in about every way.
Not to sound like an ass. But what's the point of lifting this vehicle? It's already at 9.5, that's not enough?
9.5” is never enough. If you watched any of our other videos you would see the kinds of places we took this thing.
@@roamingwithjosh ok
becoming a tank lol.
LOL agreed
You’re gonna need a bigger engine
I really struggle to understand the motivation behind lifting an Outback with a CVT transmission - I'd suggest figuring out how to install a winch because you're likely to get stuck. 😅 CVTs are not good for situations needing low speed torque - you're going to trash the transmission.
😂😂
Hey, if someone wants to destroy their car and still not be able to conquer the same terrain as a good stock SUV so be it!
I would love nothing more then the opportunity to prove that statement wrong. I’m not a Subaru fan boy sticking up for the crappy CVT, I just think a lot of people have the wrong impression and with the right person behind the wheel these things will surprise you.
Subaru CVTs are a good option to offroad subarus, the cvt offers a lower "gear" or (drive) ratio for crawling than the 5speed auto and the manual trans subaru offers. Also the newest cvt subaru built in their Wilderness trim include stronger built cvts (thicker shafts, belts, gears etc) designed to handle offroad abuse, another huge thing is the CVT transmission cooler for the wilderness models. In fact the recent subaru CVTs have been plenty reliable.
Nobody is claiming Subarus are gonna crawl like a jeep, but a good driver and a mild liftkit they will keep up with stocks 4x4 SUV's, while still getting better mpgs are cheaper maintenance and more comfortable on road.
@@tarzaan2603 o
OMG this guy clearly knows nothing about installing a lift. This is painful to watch! Completely disassembled the rear end wrong and did the hardest way in the book. Leave the wrenching to those that have common sense next time.
Thanks for watching!
Hermosa eleccion 7😍 PORNTINDER.Uno de mejor siempre en mi corazóns mañas no se la.🌹🤩💜 Son unos de los mejores conciertos.
quá xàm
Hermosa eleccion 7😍 X18TINDER.Uno de mejor siempre en mi corazónz mañas no se la.🌹🤩💜 Son unos de los mejores conciertos.
It looks great!
Thank you!
You’re gonna need a bigger engine.