Just for those who are wondering how much labor will cost. My shop charged me about $400 just for labor… if you have the tools and patience, I’d highly recommend doing it yourself. This gentleman did a really good “how to” video. Made it look easy lol.
Thanks! It was pretty simple with the exception of the lower radiator hose. That was the most difficult part. And I checked out your channel. Looks like you have some great info over there. 👍🏽👌🏽🇺🇸
@@WorkingWithWimberley cool. I have a 04 convertable. Did you run into a problem with the two transmission lines not fitting into the new radiator? I checked online and i guess this is a problem for most people that replace there radiators on C5s
@@mrdude3540 My corvette is a manual and it doesn’t use those cooler lines. I think that’s only for automatics. So I didn’t use them. I’d look on corvetteforum.com Every single issue with these cars have been discussed and broken down at some point in those forums. That’s where I usually go when something is off and I can’t figure it out.
Hi Steve, Nice job on this video. I spent about an hour on that very difficult lower hose, and haven't got it off yet. I have new hoses as the car is 24 years old, with 129,115 on the clock. When I finally do get the hose off I'll definitely put on a nice screw clamp on. Hate those clamps they put on at the factory!
Thank you for an informative and straightforward video. Went to drive my 2000 to work this morning and noticed my radiator is leaking. Original one. I'll be doing this job this weekend. Now I have a heads up for the process of my replacement. 👍👍
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped! The only tricky part was the lower radiator hose. There’s not a lot of room there. Besides that, it was straight forward.
You are a gentleman and a scholar, my friend! I am putting in a double core radiator in my 00 yellow roadster right now ! You’re right on that lower hose !! Lol 🖖🏻
Thank you so much for the kind words! Yes, the lower radiator hose was by far the most difficult part. I wasn’t going to show 20 minutes of me struggling, but I had to say something and let you guys know what was in store. I’m glad the video helped!
Looks like a real straight forward job. Pretty easy. Thanks for the video. My c5 battery died a few weeks ago while in storage for the winter in the back garage. I threw my battery charger on it, let the car warm up and noticed that the radiator was leaking. Just one more thing I have to do before the spring.
Good video. I have a crack in the plastic end cap, drivers side, by the upper hose. Many of them do that. I bought a DeWitts and I am going to replace it right now. Im going to try without lifting the car. I hope I can manage it. Ive only had the car since April and have only lifted the car a corner at a time to change rotors/pads, and clean up calipers back to factory look. Your vid makes it easier. Thank you.
You’re welcome! I definitely had to lift it. I can’t fit under the Corvette at all unless it’s up on jack stands. If you can get to that lower radiator hose without lifting the car, that’s incredible!
@@WorkingWithWimberley I drove it onto a couple of 2×12 planks, and that was just enough to slither under there. I dont think my car is lowered either. I put a DeWitts in and it went well. Car is running in the 190's now with a new factory thermostat. I think theyre like 187°. The factory fans are what kept it from overheating. I bought the car 4-28-20, so im still learning about it, and wasnt sure if it should run that hot, but didnt think it was right. I drove to Orlando, bought the car and drove back to Pennsylvania( a truly horrible place to live). It had been consistent, so I thought maybe I had an Ls1 that ran hot. I read they can do that, but I now think that is wrong. I never researched to deeply because I didnt have a problem with it before. I have a 4th gen Z28 so Im a little familiar with the motor, but it ran at 210 religiously, and never went above that, even in summer traffic. Now I know what temp my c5 should run at and fixed it with your help. Im grateful.
Seems like I'm having the same problem, a leak that looks to be coming from the driver side top left of the radiator, close to the main hose (just not sure exactly where)
Good video walk-thru, thanks for sharing! I think I spied the exact same wet line crack in my radiator on the driver's side. Also just wanted to mention that that white plastic OEM drain plug is actually a valve; You don't have to remove it (you can, but might break it). If you just give it a 1/4 turn, it drains, albeit very slowly. And the radiator cover should snap into place before snugging it down with the 10mm bolts.
I would just add when putting radiator in... make sure fan mounts line up properly..they are a little tricky.. then make sure the top mount is set in completely correct.. oter than that... thanks for the video.. nice job,,,
I'll be doing the same job in a few months, also replacing all of the rad hoses. Rather than wrestle with the lower rad hose (5m15s into the video) could you just leave it attached, and detach it from where it goes into the water pump? Then before putting the rad back in, you would attach the lower rad hose. Don't know if there's enough space or not. I'll be pulling the fans out also. Thanks for the vids.
Per CorvetteForum.com: 1) Park the vehicle on a level surface. 2) Remove the surge tank cap: 3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. 4) Place a drain pan under the drain plug. 5) Open the radiator drain plug . 6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely. 7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following: Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below. Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step. Notice When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months. Notice Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems. 8) Close the radiator drain plug. Tighten. Tighten the radiator drain plug to 2 N•m (18 lb in). 9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank. 10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water. 11) Start the engine. 12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute. 13) Install surge tank cap. 14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F). 15)Shut off the engine. 16) Remove the surge tank cap. 17) Start the engine. 18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank. 19) Install the surge tank cap. 20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F). 21) Shut off the engine. 22) Remove the surge tank cap. 23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank. 24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment. 25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant. 26) Install the surge tank cap.
Nice man! I’m doing my 2000 on Monday along with the water pump. Both went at 62,000 miles within days. Yours must be a stick? The automatics have transmission cooling lines to remove and reinstall which is a pain
@@WorkingWithWimberley got ya. I hate my car. Owned a 97 and this 2000. I drive it only 1500 miles a year. Had it 16 years. Every thing has broken on it a real pos lol but still fun to drive when working
@@mickywinters8451 Geeze! You hate it? 😂 I’ve had mine since 2016. Only things that stopped me from driving was a bad wheel hub and a cracked radiator. Other than that, it’s been solid. Always starts, always goes.
@@WorkingWithWimberley you are lucky!!! I got a lemon when I got it with 26,000 miles. Here’s a few things I had happen Rocking seats…had to replace tracks and washers, took a whole day…transmission cable has snapped on me 2x leaving me stranded. Yep 2 brand new cables within 9000 miles both snapped. Car was stuck in drive twice. My heads up display dropped and had to remove dash to fix a 2 cent screw. Took 5 hours. My pull key wait 10 seconds message came up daily and car wouldn’t start or move. Had to install an lmc5 to bypass it. Left me stranded 2x once in valet parking. My harmonic balancer is bad. It’ started wobbling at 51,000 miles. Gonna be about $900 to fix. My ac actuators both went bad. Had to remove the whole dash again to replace them. My tachometer quit working. I left it for now. My oil pressure gauge quit and to replace the sending unit that’s $20 entails taking the whole intake off. They want $500 for that lol. My belt tensioner exploded last month for no reason after I replaced it about 2 years ago and the new belt I just put on ripped in half. Had that repaired. My radiator cracked left side last week and I’m waiting for it in mail. Next day I look under car and my water pump is leaking lmao. Both broke within days. Oh and my abs light keeps coming on and abs quit working. They don’t even make the part anymore and no one rebuilds them for the 2000 only the 01 and up. Let’s see oh yea my car wouldn’t trip the security light to start the car a few months back. I had to open the passenger door to start the car. Found out my computer got water in it from the ac leaking in. I can go on….This car has 62.0000. I’ve owned it for 16 years. Hardly drive it and all this shit happened. Also replaced both window motors and also my damn targa roof just cracked from the heat and sun in Florida. Both front speakers crackle and hiss. Gotta replace them now. My CD player quit working. My ac has a leak, I had my hvac ac digital cluster rebuilt. The led light went out and couldn’t see the temp of ac. Serious. My cars been a nightmare. My daily driver jeep has 250,000 miles on it and has never broke down once. I’ve replaced brakes,tires and oil that’s about it. But the c5? Everything and it’s barely broken in. I’m afraid to drive it and getting stuck in a drive through. I bought a lifetime warranty on the tranny cable but they are made of plastic and get hot and break from the heat. Uggh. Now you see? Lol. But I’m keeping it. It’s all black with z06 rims. It’s like a bad relationship you keep sticking a band aid on :D
Great video brother. So do you mean to tell me the fan assembly is just loose and not attached to the radiator? Thanks for the great video. I broke one of the small, upper hose connections. SOOOO lame they're plastic!!!!!
Good presentation. There's a leak in the area of the top left side hose which I have not yet determined to be the hose, loose clamp or the radiator but my '98 is grounded until it is fixed. It took me six hours to change the water pump and replace all hoses (and yes, the lower hose was a bitch) a few years ago, so I'm wondering how long did it take you to swap the radiator? You may have answered my question in comments below but I have not found it.
I'm about to replace mine. I didn't see any transmission lines going to the radiator. I assume that yours is a manual tranny. My question is, do you know if there is an issue with losing transmission fluid when you swap radiators in an automatic?
Yes, my car is a manual. I don’t know if any issue with losing transmission fluid. I’d check in corvetteforum.com There’s no topic that hasn’t been covered in that forum regarding the C5.
Out of PuertoRico my C5 works more than 220 in temperature with the air without the air it works in 210 you recommend me to change the radiator to aluminum one
Everything I’ve read in the Corvette forum states that 220°F is normal operating temperature for a C5 and that you won’t get a “COOLANT OVER TEMP” indicator warning until it gets over 256°F. I’d do some more research before deciding which aftermarket radiator to choose. I’ve always just replaced with the factory radiator so I’m not sure about aftermarket radiators. 👍🏽
Great video. How difficult do you think it would be to do this on a 94 Z28? Cabin fever. I am about ready to work on the brakes and calipers at this point. Coronavirus.
It’s difficult to say. The radiator isn’t that complicated. The main issue is how accessible the radiator is. They really cram all the parts under the hood these days lol. It was surprisingly not too bad with the C5. Once I drained it and detached all of the hoses, I was able to wiggle it out. I’ve never worked on a Z28, but if I was able to squeeze it out of the Corvette, I’d say you can squeeze it out of the Camaro! Hope this helps.
@@WorkingWithWimberley It does. I can do it. I like working on cars. It's weird I know, but I like football too so oh well. Thanks for the video. Look forward to the next one. God bless. Stay safe.
I did it in once day. It took me a few hours. It’s the magic of editing, but I try my best not to skip anything. That lower radiator hose is the only thing that caused me some issues. But I was able to eventually get it.
Thanks! I’m pretty sure you mean antifreeze/coolant. And I’m actually not sure. If I had to guess, it was maybe 1.5 or 2 gallons. I drained the old radiator before removing it, but there was still coolant in the engine. I had the engine running and just kept adding to the coolant reservoir until it was full.
@@WorkingWithWimberley speaking of tans fluid it seems your radiator was for an automatic, so how much fluid leaks out when removing the lines? Are they pressurized... You really didnt go much into that. Unless the radiator is universal and can be used on manuals im not sure
My Corvette is a 2002 Z06 which only comes in a manual. The radiator that I used was a GM (AC Delco) part that had connections for a trans cooler which I didn’t use since I have a manual. I’m sure the CorvetteForum could provide more details on the specifics of the cooling system than I can. I would check there.
I have a 01Zo6 about 2 1/2 inch on front built ramps with 4 pieces of 2x10 three screwed together put behind front wheel back onto first two steps put on 4th and back rest of way then can put long reach low profile jack under good luck
@@WorkingWithWimberley I need to change mine, so I just went to GM parts... can you believe the radiator core is discontinued?? Time to hit the aftermarket! Steve
U ain't lying, that bottom hose clamp is a bitch. When I replaced my water pump and hoses last year it took me about 20 minutes too. I put a regular hose clamp on it and I'm glad I did, now I have to replace my radiator and it should be much easier, the bottom OEM clamp has no room to grab and moves when u get a grip unless u have the special tool with the cable to grab OEM clamps. Thanks!
@@WorkingWithWimberley just replaced my radiator yesterday, it was a breeze thanks to your video and putting a regular clamp on the bottom when I replaced my hoses a while ago. Thanks again.
Would it have been possible to leave the lower rad hose in place on the radiator, and disconnect from where it goes into the water pump. Then lift out the rad with the lower hose still attached. If so, would save a bunch of knuckles!
I didn’t have to bleed mine. After topping of the reservoir, the engine temperature stayed steady and the heat worked inside the car. I can’t guarantee that you won’t need to bleed yours though.
The key part of that is “not knowing if there’s any other problems.” Inspect the car thoroughly or have someone you trust inspect it. If there’s no major problems, it may be a good deal.
If an 03 is 7k, it has other problems. Still look at buying it tho, just set aside a few grand. My 98 was 7k and i spent over 2k in repairs. Brakes, radiator, shocks, power steering pump, endlinks. Upgrade when doing these, z51 sways, z06 shocks, ss brakelines, phadt endlinks, etc. End result is worth it.
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You’re going to save someone a lot of money with this video. Great job!
Thank you so much! This one was tough to record. I really hope this can help some people out!
Just for those who are wondering how much labor will cost. My shop charged me about $400 just for labor… if you have the tools and patience, I’d highly recommend doing it yourself. This gentleman did a really good “how to” video. Made it look easy lol.
Thanks! It was pretty simple with the exception of the lower radiator hose. That was the most difficult part. And I checked out your channel. Looks like you have some great info over there. 👍🏽👌🏽🇺🇸
This is the best vid so far i have seen on replacement of the radiator for the C5.
Thanks! I definitely appreciate the support!
@@WorkingWithWimberley what year is your vette?
@@mrdude3540 It’s a 2002 Z06.
@@WorkingWithWimberley cool. I have a 04 convertable. Did you run into a problem with the two transmission lines not fitting into the new radiator? I checked online and i guess this is a problem for most people that replace there radiators on C5s
@@mrdude3540 My corvette is a manual and it doesn’t use those cooler lines. I think that’s only for automatics. So I didn’t use them. I’d look on corvetteforum.com Every single issue with these cars have been discussed and broken down at some point in those forums. That’s where I usually go when something is off and I can’t figure it out.
Hi Steve, Nice job on this video. I spent about an hour on that very difficult lower hose, and haven't got it off yet. I have new hoses as the car is 24 years old, with 129,115 on the clock. When I finally do get the hose off I'll definitely put on a nice screw clamp on. Hate those clamps they put on at the factory!
@@georgewhite8546 I totally understand! It doesn’t feel like these cars at that old yet. I love the C5s.
Thank you for an informative and straightforward video. Went to drive my 2000 to work this morning and noticed my radiator is leaking. Original one. I'll be doing this job this weekend. Now I have a heads up for the process of my replacement. 👍👍
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped! The only tricky part was the lower radiator hose. There’s not a lot of room there. Besides that, it was straight forward.
I love the slow-no of the unexpected fluid coming out of the last hose. I have felt that pain.
I left that part in on purpose! It was a pain to get that lower hose off and I took a bath in coolant.
Thanks for making the video very informative and easy to follow. Will be replacing my radiator soon
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Good video, very informative. The only thing that I may have added was showing exactly how the radiator sat in relation to the fans and the condenser.
You are a gentleman and a scholar, my friend! I am putting in a double core radiator in my 00 yellow roadster right now ! You’re right on that lower hose !! Lol 🖖🏻
Thank you so much for the kind words! Yes, the lower radiator hose was by far the most difficult part. I wasn’t going to show 20 minutes of me struggling, but I had to say something and let you guys know what was in store. I’m glad the video helped!
Looks like a real straight forward job. Pretty easy. Thanks for the video. My c5 battery died a few weeks ago while in storage for the winter in the back garage. I threw my battery charger on it, let the car warm up and noticed that the radiator was leaking. Just one more thing I have to do before the spring.
Thanks! It’s not a hard job, but the lower radiator hose is a pain to get off.
@@WorkingWithWimberley I'm sure I will get it. I need to replace the oil sensor and oil pan gasket. I'm sure oil pressure sensor will be a pain.
Good video. I have a crack in the plastic end cap, drivers side, by the upper hose. Many of them do that. I bought a DeWitts and I am going to replace it right now. Im going to try without lifting the car. I hope I can manage it. Ive only had the car since April and have only lifted the car a corner at a time to change rotors/pads, and clean up calipers back to factory look. Your vid makes it easier. Thank you.
You’re welcome! I definitely had to lift it. I can’t fit under the Corvette at all unless it’s up on jack stands. If you can get to that lower radiator hose without lifting the car, that’s incredible!
@@WorkingWithWimberley I drove it onto a couple of 2×12 planks, and that was just enough to slither under there. I dont think my car is lowered either. I put a DeWitts in and it went well. Car is running in the 190's now with a new factory thermostat. I think theyre like 187°. The factory fans are what kept it from overheating. I bought the car 4-28-20, so im still learning about it, and wasnt sure if it should run that hot, but didnt think it was right. I drove to Orlando, bought the car and drove back to Pennsylvania( a truly horrible place to live). It had been consistent, so I thought maybe I had an Ls1 that ran hot. I read they can do that, but I now think that is wrong. I never researched to deeply because I didnt have a problem with it before. I have a 4th gen Z28 so Im a little familiar with the motor, but it ran at 210 religiously, and never went above that, even in summer traffic. Now I know what temp my c5 should run at and fixed it with your help. Im grateful.
Seems like I'm having the same problem, a leak that looks to be coming from the driver side top left of the radiator, close to the main hose (just not sure exactly where)
Nice quality video, the captions were helpful! Thanks for keeping it clean too!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Great video man! I’m tackling this job soon for my father. I appreciate the upload! Big help. 👍🏼
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Just the video i was looking for. Good job dude. Thank you
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Good video walk-thru, thanks for sharing! I think I spied the exact same wet line crack in my radiator on the driver's side. Also just wanted to mention that that white plastic OEM drain plug is actually a valve; You don't have to remove it (you can, but might break it). If you just give it a 1/4 turn, it drains, albeit very slowly. And the radiator cover should snap into place before snugging it down with the 10mm bolts.
Thanks!
Great Job explaining step by step!
Thanks! I’m glad the video helped!
Great video, Wimberley! Thanks for your tutorial.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
You did a great job on this video. The visual was nearly perfect. Thank you
You’re welcome! It was challenging getting a shot of that lower radiator hose, but I did my best. 👍🏽
Literally the video I need it
Awesome! I hope it helps!
This is perfect! Doing this swap soon! Much thanks for the details and great video clips!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Excellent video...glad to hear God id your motivator! I am going for it my self.
Thank you! I’m glad the video helped! 🙏🏽
Good job my brother I'm about to go back here and do the same thing right now I just wanted to see how it go thank you
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
I would just add when putting radiator in... make sure fan mounts line up properly..they are a little tricky.. then make sure the top mount is set in completely correct.. oter than that... thanks for the video.. nice job,,,
@@Shimes Thanks for the tips.
Well done, thanks !
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Very helpful. Thanx
@@RamiroCuellar-m4b You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
I'll be doing the same job in a few months, also replacing all of the rad hoses. Rather than wrestle with the lower rad hose (5m15s into the video) could you just leave it attached, and detach it from where it goes into the water pump? Then before putting the rad back in, you would attach the lower rad hose. Don't know if there's enough space or not. I'll be pulling the fans out also. Thanks for the vids.
You’re welcome. I’m not sure if that would work. I guess it’s possible, but I’ve never tried to do it that way.
Superb, sir. Suggestion - put in your description the refill and air-bleed process, please!
Per CorvetteForum.com:
1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Remove the surge tank cap:
3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4) Place a drain pan under the drain plug.
5) Open the radiator drain plug .
6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.
Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
8) Close the radiator drain plug. Tighten.
Tighten the radiator drain plug to 2 N•m (18 lb in).
9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
11) Start the engine.
12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
13) Install surge tank cap.
14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
15)Shut off the engine.
16) Remove the surge tank cap.
17) Start the engine.
18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
19) Install the surge tank cap.
20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
21) Shut off the engine.
22) Remove the surge tank cap.
23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
26) Install the surge tank cap.
Great video thank you , I got to do my radiator too.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Thank you!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Nice awesome, thank you so much for this video now I can fix mine soon 😀
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Nice man! I’m doing my 2000 on Monday along with the water pump. Both went at 62,000 miles within days. Yours must be a stick? The automatics have transmission cooling lines to remove and reinstall which is a pain
Yup. I have a Z06. They were only available in a manual for the C5 generation.
@@WorkingWithWimberley got ya. I hate my car. Owned a 97 and this 2000. I drive it only 1500 miles a year. Had it 16 years. Every thing has broken on it a real pos lol but still fun to drive when working
@@mickywinters8451 Geeze! You hate it? 😂 I’ve had mine since 2016. Only things that stopped me from driving was a bad wheel hub and a cracked radiator. Other than that, it’s been solid. Always starts, always goes.
@@WorkingWithWimberley you are lucky!!! I got a lemon when I got it with 26,000 miles. Here’s a few things I had happen
Rocking seats…had to replace tracks and washers, took a whole day…transmission cable has snapped on me 2x leaving me stranded. Yep 2 brand new cables within 9000 miles both snapped. Car was stuck in drive twice. My heads up display dropped and had to remove dash to fix a 2 cent screw. Took 5 hours. My pull key wait 10 seconds message came up daily and car wouldn’t start or move. Had to install an lmc5 to bypass it. Left me stranded 2x once in valet parking. My harmonic balancer is bad. It’ started wobbling at 51,000 miles. Gonna be about $900 to fix. My ac actuators both went bad. Had to remove the whole dash again to replace them. My tachometer quit working. I left it for now. My oil pressure gauge quit and to replace the sending unit that’s $20 entails taking the whole intake off. They want $500 for that lol. My belt tensioner exploded last month for no reason after I replaced it about 2 years ago and the new belt I just put on ripped in half. Had that repaired. My radiator cracked left side last week and I’m waiting for it in mail. Next day I look under car and my water pump is leaking lmao. Both broke within days. Oh and my abs light keeps coming on and abs quit working. They don’t even make the part anymore and no one rebuilds them for the 2000 only the 01 and up. Let’s see oh yea my car wouldn’t trip the security light to start the car a few months back. I had to open the passenger door to start the car. Found out my computer got water in it from the ac leaking in.
I can go on….This car has 62.0000. I’ve owned it for 16 years. Hardly drive it and all this shit happened.
Also replaced both window motors and also my damn targa roof just cracked from the heat and sun in Florida. Both front speakers crackle and hiss. Gotta replace them now. My CD player quit working. My ac has a leak, I had my hvac ac digital cluster rebuilt. The led light went out and couldn’t see the temp of ac. Serious. My cars been a nightmare.
My daily driver jeep has 250,000 miles on it and has never broke down once. I’ve replaced brakes,tires and oil that’s about it. But the c5? Everything and it’s barely broken in. I’m afraid to drive it and getting stuck in a drive through. I bought a lifetime warranty on the tranny cable but they are made of plastic and get hot and break from the heat. Uggh. Now you see? Lol. But I’m keeping it. It’s all black with z06 rims. It’s like a bad relationship you keep sticking a band aid on :D
Great video brother!
Thanks! I’m glad the video helped!
Awesome video!
Thanks Scott! More to come.
Good video. You should mention why you replaced it.
Thanks! The old radiator had a crack in it. I usually just get right into the job with my videos.
Great walk through!!! Thank you 🙏🏻
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Really helpful. Thanks!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Nice work.
Thanks! I’m glad the video helped!
Great video brother. So do you mean to tell me the fan assembly is just loose and not attached to the radiator? Thanks for the great video. I broke one of the small, upper hose connections. SOOOO lame they're plastic!!!!!
It’s not loose, it fits down into slots that are made onto the radiator. But it’s not bolted to the radiator.
Good presentation. There's a leak in the area of the top left side hose which I have not yet determined to be the hose, loose clamp or the radiator but my '98 is grounded until it is fixed. It took me six hours to change the water pump and replace all hoses (and yes, the lower hose was a bitch) a few years ago, so I'm wondering how long did it take you to swap the radiator? You may have answered my question in comments below but I have not found it.
I don’t remember exactly, but I’d say 1.5 hours. The hardest thing was the lower hose. Everything else was pretty simple.
I'm about to replace mine. I didn't see any transmission lines going to the radiator. I assume that yours is a manual tranny. My question is, do you know if there is an issue with losing transmission fluid when you swap radiators in an automatic?
Yes, my car is a manual. I don’t know if any issue with losing transmission fluid. I’d check in corvetteforum.com There’s no topic that hasn’t been covered in that forum regarding the C5.
Out of PuertoRico my C5 works more than 220 in temperature with the air without the air it works in 210 you recommend me to change the radiator to aluminum one
Everything I’ve read in the Corvette forum states that 220°F is normal operating temperature for a C5 and that you won’t get a “COOLANT OVER TEMP” indicator warning until it gets over 256°F. I’d do some more research before deciding which aftermarket radiator to choose. I’ve always just replaced with the factory radiator so I’m not sure about aftermarket radiators. 👍🏽
I have a cracked driver side plastic resavore/tank. Is this common?
It’s common to older cars. The plastics get brittle and crack or break.
Great video. How difficult do you think it would be to do this on a 94 Z28? Cabin fever. I am about ready to work on the brakes and calipers at this point. Coronavirus.
It’s difficult to say. The radiator isn’t that complicated. The main issue is how accessible the radiator is. They really cram all the parts under the hood these days lol. It was surprisingly not too bad with the C5. Once I drained it and detached all of the hoses, I was able to wiggle it out. I’ve never worked on a Z28, but if I was able to squeeze it out of the Corvette, I’d say you can squeeze it out of the Camaro! Hope this helps.
@@WorkingWithWimberley It does. I can do it. I like working on cars. It's weird I know, but I like football too so oh well. Thanks for the video. Look forward to the next one. God bless. Stay safe.
You made it look simple I'm sure it's going to take me like 3 days. But great job on the video though
I did it in once day. It took me a few hours. It’s the magic of editing, but I try my best not to skip anything. That lower radiator hose is the only thing that caused me some issues. But I was able to eventually get it.
Great video!! My question is how much trans fluid did you have to add?
Thanks! I’m pretty sure you mean antifreeze/coolant. And I’m actually not sure. If I had to guess, it was maybe 1.5 or 2 gallons. I drained the old radiator before removing it, but there was still coolant in the engine. I had the engine running and just kept adding to the coolant reservoir until it was full.
Omg yes I’m sorry I must of been watching another video 🤦🏽♂️
@@WorkingWithWimberley speaking of tans fluid it seems your radiator was for an automatic, so how much fluid leaks out when removing the lines?
Are they pressurized... You really didnt go much into that.
Unless the radiator is universal and can be used on manuals im not sure
My Corvette is a 2002 Z06 which only comes in a manual. The radiator that I used was a GM (AC Delco) part that had connections for a trans cooler which I didn’t use since I have a manual. I’m sure the CorvetteForum could provide more details on the specifics of the cooling system than I can. I would check there.
@@WorkingWithWimberley i checked but to no avail, im just going to do it and get in there
Can you remove the cooling fans without removing the radiator?
I’m not 100% sure, but it looks like you can.
Great video. Replace your hoses when doing this tho. They are cheap. Thanks!!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Only problem I had was my vette is lowered what a pain to get it high enough to drain and loosen bottom hose
My Vette is lowered as well. I had all four wheels up on blocks in order to get room underneath it. You can kind of see it at 2:57.
I have a 01Zo6 about 2 1/2 inch on front built ramps with 4 pieces of 2x10 three screwed together put behind front wheel back onto first two steps put on 4th and back rest of way then can put long reach low profile jack under good luck
@@kiwiguy4764 thanks I'll try that I have ramps but it's too low for them lol
What brand of replacement radiator did you install?
I went with GM AcDelco.
@@WorkingWithWimberley Thanks
No problem!
You in wimberley texas?
No, I’m not but I definitely plan on visiting there one day.
Where did you buy the new radiator?
I ordered from gmpartsdirect.com
@@WorkingWithWimberley I need to change mine, so I just went to GM parts... can you believe the radiator core is discontinued?? Time to hit the aftermarket! Steve
@@ddelong1000 I’d try RockAuto.com as well. Often times I’ll get the part number from GM and then order it from RockAuto because the price is better.
U ain't lying, that bottom hose clamp is a bitch. When I replaced my water pump and hoses last year it took me about 20 minutes too. I put a regular hose clamp on it and I'm glad I did, now I have to replace my radiator and it should be much easier, the bottom OEM clamp has no room to grab and moves when u get a grip unless u have the special tool with the cable to grab OEM clamps. Thanks!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped! I just try to be honest in these videos. The lower clamp was by far the worst part of the job.
@@WorkingWithWimberley just replaced my radiator yesterday, it was a breeze thanks to your video and putting a regular clamp on the bottom when I replaced my hoses a while ago. Thanks again.
@@DiscoBoogieNJ you’re very welcome!
Would it have been possible to leave the lower rad hose in place on the radiator, and disconnect from where it goes into the water pump. Then lift out the rad with the lower hose still attached. If so, would save a bunch of knuckles!
What about the two spots u didn't mention on the lower left side of the radiator.. do they just get left with the tabs in??
@@RamonHolmes-f3b It’s my understanding that I would’ve used those if I had an automatic, but since I have a manual, my Corvette doesn’t use them.
didn't have to bleed the system at all?
I didn’t have to bleed mine. After topping of the reservoir, the engine temperature stayed steady and the heat worked inside the car. I can’t guarantee that you won’t need to bleed yours though.
Do y’all think I should buy a 2003 corvette for $7000 it needs a new radiator it’s in good condition I don’t know if any other problems
The key part of that is “not knowing if there’s any other problems.” Inspect the car thoroughly or have someone you trust inspect it. If there’s no major problems, it may be a good deal.
If an 03 is 7k, it has other problems. Still look at buying it tho, just set aside a few grand. My 98 was 7k and i spent over 2k in repairs. Brakes, radiator, shocks, power steering pump, endlinks. Upgrade when doing these, z51 sways, z06 shocks, ss brakelines, phadt endlinks, etc. End result is worth it.
I'm here bc mine just cracked 😣. Went with a Mcleod RXT and now the radiator cracked. FML. I haven't driven my car in months.
I’m sorry the hear that. The radiator isn’t a difficult swap. It probably took me a few hours. 👌🏽👍🏽
ayeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
I’m getting busy! I see you doing RUclips and twitch at the same time. I had to step my game up and get some videos out. More coming soon!
Took me 25 mins and a lifetime warranty radiator from O Reilly’s autopart.
That’s awesome! I’m glad the video helped!