Part of the reason I love this channel is the amount of clever jigs, tips, tests and shortcuts that can be found in basically every video. That tip with the light and a straight edge is so simple but I’d never have come up with it.
I only stumbled on this when browsing your channel after the gate build video. I have this planer but not yet bothered with it and setting it up. This will really help. 👍. Great channel
One of my greatest concerns (being a 'micro-budget' DIYer) was the problem of these blades. I still invested in a 'low-end' P/T machine but the day it needs sharpening was bugging me. I see a lot of yt-ers singing the praises of spiral blades etc - argh! So, thanks Keith for de-mystifying the process of keeping straight blades, 'good-to-go'. I've discovered the skill that rules the whole workshop - sharpening. Time (and money) spent here is the saviour of precision and quality - and all my sharpening gets honed on a strop-block, of your design - cheers my friend.
Hi Keith, great video, it’s a pain changing these blades. I have the metabo, and found you can insert the blade and holder together if you screw the bolts all the way down first. After my blade dropped out while tightening, i found securing the blade to the holder with a tiny bit of double sided did the trick nicely.
Having the correct holder for the different type of blades makes it much easier. The holders in the video goes only with the thick blades and a different set of holders must be used for the disposable types. It has locating pins for the holes in the blades.
I've the same planer and sharpen the thicker blades every 6months or so. Mounting the blade on a jig really helps a) keeping the blade parallel to the bent consistently across its length b) my fingers well away from the belt. I've seen someone else mention Gid's jig that does both blades at once which I'd like to try sometime.
Not read comments so apologies if this is a repeat ... love the advice ... why not draw two lines on the tape then you don't need to measure with the ruler each time ?
5:46 got me good Kieth . On the sharpening side , I bought a cheap park side grinder same as the Clarke one , got some different grade belts . Now have a budget sorbet sharpener 😁
Can you adjust the plainer bed on thes ones. I just bout one of thees cheep and dident care to mutch to check it becuse of the price. Now i note that the plainertable is much lower on the treds on the right coner side than the left. Do you know if itcan be adjusted easily?
Another excellent video, Keith, which has prompted me to investigate improving my own planer thicknesser. It is a Scheppach Model 1070, which just has 8 bolts clamping the cutter blade, with no provision for adjustment like your two Allen-headed screws. For this reason, I have put off swapping blades as it is the sort of long job that drives me nuts. After watching your video, I investigated the latest version of the Scheppach machine, the Model 1080, and discovered it DOES have setting screws. I have therefore contacted Scheppach to see if it is possible to replace the 1070 cutter head with one for a 1080, and - if so - where to get one. Fingers crossed that I might end up with fitting nice sharp cutters once again, without having gone mad in the process.
Excellent work, Keith! 😃 I have a thicknesser/planer as well, but from a Brazilian brand. It's only 10 inch each, but it's more than enough for me. 😊 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Good video Keith, Gid joiner has a great little jig for sharpening both of his blades at once, it's basically a bit of 2x4 with 2 slots cut in it at 45° along the length, I use one with a belt sander to sharpen mine and it works a treat. 👍
@@mattknights274 i use the jig with belt sander too, up to 120g, then on lapping film, then remove from jig and take off the burr on the back. Much better way
Thanks Keith, I need to do this on my jointer, mostly because I hit a nail.....or five. 😒 How did you determine that you wanted the board to move 5mm when rotating the cutter head? Is that a suggested measurement, in the manual, or something you've just found to work best?
Yeah I know that feeling! 5mm is just what I've found to work best, I took the measurement from the old blades before I attempted changing them, seems to work fine
Interesting design with the accessible adjustment. Would have been nice on my old Delta jointer (3 knives). Thanks for the video. What RPM is your stone spinning at?
It would actually but look at the price of them. You could buy another planer like Dewalt 733 for the price of helical cutter head. Plus to replace existing one is not that easy. My Metabo HC 260 gives incredible nice finish at that's on stock 2x 1mm cheapo blades. If stepping up then maybe get proper machine with strong but quite induction engine and already installed helical cutter head but you are looking at £3000 plus. Not sure if really wroth it. Remember planing and joining is only to give you straight edges. No matter the machine you use you always have to sand all pieces anyway.
My Grinding Station Video ruclips.net/video/cJBgWwmFpXA/видео.html HC260 / PT260 Planer Knives (Resharpenable) geni.us/3VQBtGh (Amazon) HC260 / PT260 Planer Knives (Disposable) geni.us/wtA0S (Amazon) Diamond Grinding Wheel Dresser geni.us/erPoGe (Amazon) Grinder Tool Rest geni.us/Xly7ACq (Amazon) Grinder Tool Rest geni.us/dgbv9n (Amazon) Grinder Tool Rest geni.us/XO7S8p (Amazon) Clarke Grinder/Sander geni.us/TulN (Amazon) Silverline Grinder/Sander geni.us/A9JZ (Amazon) I got my abrasive wheel from : www.abtec4abrasives.com/ 0:00 About My Machine 0:29 Types of Planer Knives 2:16 How To Sharpen Planer Blades 5:51 Setting The Planer Blades Height 7:10 Testing The Sharpened Blades 🔨 MY TOOLS 🔨 For links to the tools I use, plus some of my favourite consumables, finishes and more see links below. As an Amazon Associate I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases: UK affiliate store: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/ragnbonebrown US affiliate store: www.amazon.com/shop/ragnbonebrown 🤝 HELP SUPPORT THE CHANNEL 🤝 Support with RUclips channel membership: ruclips.net/channel/UCVyE_6jEtVZGmYGXtUOL5FQjoin Support with Patreon: www.patreon.com/ragnbonebrown Support with PayPal paypal.me/ragnbonebrown Shop With Amazon using my affiliate link: geni.us/iWD3K 💰 SHOP 💰 Etsy: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KeithBrownMaker teespring.com/stores/rag-n-bone-brown-merch 🎧 WORKSHOP BANTER PODCAST 🎧 ruclips.net/user/workshopbanter Also available on Spotify, Apple, Google and most other podcast platforms 🔗 LINKS: 🔗 Website: www.ragnbonebrown.com Facebook: facebook.com/ragnbonebrown Instagram: @ragnbonebrown Twitter: twitter.com/ragnbonebrown Email: ragnbonebrown@gmail.com Second RUclips Channel (non woodwork videos): ruclips.net/user/keefykeef
For the thin blades you need 2 other steel bars wich has 2 lock screws on the bottom to adjust. Also you should ever lock the screws in the middle first! Sorry for my bad english.
@@RagnBoneBrown The blade-holder you have are optional for using the 3mm HSS blades wich can be resharpened. The original 1mm Blades are one-way and can only be switched one time.
The thin disposable blades must be fitted with a different set of holders which has locating pins for the holes in the blades and two set screws which push up against the cutter block for adjustment. The two blade systems with it's respective holders are not compatible with each other. The better blades are the thick sharpenable ones. The disposable ones makes more sense for DIY'ers looking for simplicity.
Yeah I saw that, a proper bargain too! Jealous...I was going to comment on your video to warn you that you'll need an hvlp extractor for your table saw (I have the same one)
i have an ax,imister 10in planer/thicknesser and its a pile of crap, to change the blades you have to place a bar on the actual edge of the sprung load knives and push it down to the correct height and tighten the bolts once correct height is achieved, which is near impossible cos the springs under the blades are pushing the blade up whilst your trying to set them. this is extremely dangerous if you slip as your hand will be cut to pieces and also very stupid placing a metal bar on sharp blades that will now have blunt areas where you push the bar down on the blades. not really happy with axminster machinery, it is better made than most from china but nether the less it is from china and it shows by the design ideas.
looks good and sharp, but a terrible way to sharpen the knives, in my opinion! You can get faster, easier, sharper and more accurate results with a simple jig to hold the knives. Plenty of videos out there.
Waste of time so I just buy new ones and make knives or scribers out of the old ones. But if that’s what you like to do,sharpen, then , have at it. Good job though.
Part of the reason I love this channel is the amount of clever jigs, tips, tests and shortcuts that can be found in basically every video. That tip with the light and a straight edge is so simple but I’d never have come up with it.
"That's what she said" brilliant timing Keith 😂
I only stumbled on this when browsing your channel after the gate build video. I have this planer but not yet bothered with it and setting it up. This will really help. 👍. Great channel
One of my greatest concerns (being a 'micro-budget' DIYer) was the problem of these blades. I still invested in a 'low-end' P/T machine but the day it needs sharpening was bugging me. I see a lot of yt-ers singing the praises of spiral blades etc - argh! So, thanks Keith for de-mystifying the process of keeping straight blades, 'good-to-go'. I've discovered the skill that rules the whole workshop - sharpening. Time (and money) spent here is the saviour of precision and quality - and all my sharpening gets honed on a strop-block, of your design - cheers my friend.
Thanks alot for the video I have a second hand record power pt260 and blades are dull so will have ago
Haven't watched this yet, expect it to be as informative as always.
Just loving the ZOOM in at the start. Cheers!
Excellent tutorial
"That's what she said" you're a very naughty boy !!! Seriously I would not have known how to do this, brilliant, thank you !!!!
Hi Keith, great video, it’s a pain changing these blades. I have the metabo, and found you can insert the blade and holder together if you screw the bolts all the way down first. After my blade dropped out while tightening, i found securing the blade to the holder with a tiny bit of double sided did the trick nicely.
Having the correct holder for the different type of blades makes it much easier.
The holders in the video goes only with the thick blades and a different set of holders must be used for the disposable types.
It has locating pins for the holes in the blades.
That's what she said 😀
That’s a really helpful video,I’m looking at a similar planer/thicknesser tomorrow so will check out the blades. Thanks for sharing
I've the same planer and sharpen the thicker blades every 6months or so. Mounting the blade on a jig really helps a) keeping the blade parallel to the bent consistently across its length b) my fingers well away from the belt. I've seen someone else mention Gid's jig that does both blades at once which I'd like to try sometime.
Not read comments so apologies if this is a repeat ... love the advice ... why not draw two lines on the tape then you don't need to measure with the ruler each time ?
5:46 got me good Kieth .
On the sharpening side , I bought a cheap park side grinder same as the Clarke one , got some different grade belts . Now have a budget sorbet sharpener 😁
The ‘that’s what she said’ nearly made me lose my tea 😂
Can you adjust the plainer bed on thes ones. I just bout one of thees cheep and dident care to mutch to check it becuse of the price. Now i note that the plainertable is much lower on the treds on the right coner side than the left. Do you know if itcan be adjusted easily?
Great video Keith. You've reminded me I need to get new stone wheels for my bench grinder mate lol love the comical bit ( that's what she said) 😅🤣
Great work Keith! Thanks for always sharing with us!👍💖😎JP
Great trick with this masking tape - it's a first time I seen it - another good and helpful video!!!! Thanks 😊
Another excellent video, Keith, which has prompted me to investigate improving my own planer thicknesser. It is a Scheppach Model 1070, which just has 8 bolts clamping the cutter blade, with no provision for adjustment like your two Allen-headed screws. For this reason, I have put off swapping blades as it is the sort of long job that drives me nuts. After watching your video, I investigated the latest version of the Scheppach machine, the Model 1080, and discovered it DOES have setting screws. I have therefore contacted Scheppach to see if it is possible to replace the 1070 cutter head with one for a 1080, and - if so - where to get one. Fingers crossed that I might end up with fitting nice sharp cutters once again, without having gone mad in the process.
Ahhh, let’s keep it clean Kieth. 😄
Excellent work, Keith! 😃
I have a thicknesser/planer as well, but from a Brazilian brand. It's only 10 inch each, but it's more than enough for me. 😊
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome, can I bring all my old nail filled and concrete covered scaffold boards over to clean up now?
🤣 nice try 👍
05:46 caught me xD great tips as always
👍🤣
Good video Keith, Gid joiner has a great little jig for sharpening both of his blades at once, it's basically a bit of 2x4 with 2 slots cut in it at 45° along the length, I use one with a belt sander to sharpen mine and it works a treat. 👍
Yeah I think I saw Matt at Badger Workshop do that too. Looks a good option, but I'd prefer to do it on a machine for speed
@@RagnBoneBrown I've made a new one for my dw735 this weekend, I do mine on a belt sander 👍
@@mattknights274 i use the jig with belt sander too, up to 120g, then on lapping film, then remove from jig and take off the burr on the back. Much better way
Thanks Keith, I need to do this on my jointer, mostly because I hit a nail.....or five. 😒
How did you determine that you wanted the board to move 5mm when rotating the cutter head? Is that a suggested measurement, in the manual, or something you've just found to work best?
Yeah I know that feeling! 5mm is just what I've found to work best, I took the measurement from the old blades before I attempted changing them, seems to work fine
I do like a good “that’s what she said”. 🤣
Interesting design with the accessible adjustment. Would have been nice on my old Delta jointer (3 knives). Thanks for the video. What RPM is your stone spinning at?
Cheers! Think it's 2950 RPM
Wow that’s awesome
Would converting to a helical cutter, be an option?
I don't think so, unfortunately
It would actually but look at the price of them. You could buy another planer like Dewalt 733 for the price of helical cutter head. Plus to replace existing one is not that easy. My Metabo HC 260 gives incredible nice finish at that's on stock 2x 1mm cheapo blades. If stepping up then maybe get proper machine with strong but quite induction engine and already installed helical cutter head but you are looking at £3000 plus. Not sure if really wroth it. Remember planing and joining is only to give you straight edges. No matter the machine you use you always have to sand all pieces anyway.
My Grinding Station Video ruclips.net/video/cJBgWwmFpXA/видео.html
HC260 / PT260 Planer Knives (Resharpenable) geni.us/3VQBtGh (Amazon)
HC260 / PT260 Planer Knives (Disposable) geni.us/wtA0S (Amazon)
Diamond Grinding Wheel Dresser geni.us/erPoGe (Amazon)
Grinder Tool Rest geni.us/Xly7ACq (Amazon)
Grinder Tool Rest geni.us/dgbv9n (Amazon)
Grinder Tool Rest geni.us/XO7S8p (Amazon)
Clarke Grinder/Sander geni.us/TulN (Amazon)
Silverline Grinder/Sander geni.us/A9JZ (Amazon)
I got my abrasive wheel from : www.abtec4abrasives.com/
0:00 About My Machine
0:29 Types of Planer Knives
2:16 How To Sharpen Planer Blades
5:51 Setting The Planer Blades Height
7:10 Testing The Sharpened Blades
🔨 MY TOOLS 🔨
For links to the tools I use, plus some of my favourite consumables, finishes and more see links below. As an Amazon Associate I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases:
UK affiliate store: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/ragnbonebrown
US affiliate store: www.amazon.com/shop/ragnbonebrown
🤝 HELP SUPPORT THE CHANNEL 🤝
Support with RUclips channel membership: ruclips.net/channel/UCVyE_6jEtVZGmYGXtUOL5FQjoin
Support with Patreon: www.patreon.com/ragnbonebrown
Support with PayPal paypal.me/ragnbonebrown
Shop With Amazon using my affiliate link: geni.us/iWD3K
💰 SHOP 💰
Etsy: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KeithBrownMaker
teespring.com/stores/rag-n-bone-brown-merch
🎧 WORKSHOP BANTER PODCAST 🎧
ruclips.net/user/workshopbanter
Also available on Spotify, Apple, Google and most other podcast platforms
🔗 LINKS: 🔗
Website: www.ragnbonebrown.com
Facebook: facebook.com/ragnbonebrown
Instagram: @ragnbonebrown
Twitter: twitter.com/ragnbonebrown
Email: ragnbonebrown@gmail.com
Second RUclips Channel (non woodwork videos): ruclips.net/user/keefykeef
Thank you
Keith those bladesnshoudnt just slide out luke that. They should be kept in place by some pins which are on the bar with the 10mm nuts.
The idea of stropping is longevity of the cutting edge you refine the scratch pattern I would be more concerned however with a correct bevel angle
The correct angle is already established, hence setting the tool rest to repeat it
That is indeed what she said.
Nice video Keith, well explained and executed... btw...you have to wiggle it fast 😂
For the thin blades you need 2 other steel bars wich has 2 lock screws on the bottom to adjust. Also you should ever lock the screws in the middle first! Sorry for my bad english.
Ah interesting, ok thanks. I don't think I have those with the machine but may buy some if I can source them
@@RagnBoneBrown The blade-holder you have are optional for using the 3mm HSS blades wich can be resharpened. The original 1mm Blades are one-way and can only be switched one time.
Awsome
The thin disposable blades must be fitted with a different set of holders which has locating pins for the holes in the blades and two set screws which push up against the cutter block for adjustment.
The two blade systems with it's respective holders are not compatible with each other.
The better blades are the thick sharpenable ones.
The disposable ones makes more sense for DIY'ers looking for simplicity.
I think your adjustment method is wrong. Did you referenced the blade off of the infeed table?
I just bought a spiral thicknesser planer, none of this business for me 😁 😝
Yeah I saw that, a proper bargain too! Jealous...I was going to comment on your video to warn you that you'll need an hvlp extractor for your table saw (I have the same one)
@@RagnBoneBrown yeah I used both quickly yesterday and thought I'd best get something. Will have to see if there are any bargains about 🤞
That’s what she said 😂😂😂👍
The height pf your blades should be the same height as your outfeed table.
magnetic blade setters
Ahhhhh i see now.
😂😂😂. That’s what she said
i have an ax,imister 10in planer/thicknesser and its a pile of crap, to change the blades you have to place a bar on the actual edge of the sprung load knives and push it down to the correct height and tighten the bolts once correct height is achieved, which is near impossible cos the springs under the blades are pushing the blade up whilst your trying to set them. this is extremely dangerous if you slip as your hand will be cut to pieces and also very stupid placing a metal bar on sharp blades that will now have blunt areas where you push the bar down on the blades.
not really happy with axminster machinery, it is better made than most from china but nether the less it is from china and it shows by the design ideas.
looks good and sharp, but a terrible way to sharpen the knives, in my opinion! You can get faster, easier, sharper and more accurate results with a simple jig to hold the knives. Plenty of videos out there.
Waste of time so I just buy new ones and make knives or scribers out of the old ones.
But if that’s what you like to do,sharpen, then , have at it.
Good job though.