If you tape a piece of wire to the nozzle tubing it will hold it straight. Also, one can buy an endoscope for your cell phone. That allows you to see inside the frame to check for rust that was missed or check for complete paint coverage after the paint is dry.
Very important to stay on top of this as preventative maintenance. My 2019 JL is showing signs of light rust, especially at the welds, going to tackle this when the weather warms up this spring. Cheers!
Seems like zip-tying a coat hanger or in-wall fish tool to the clear rubber line to give it some rigidity would solve all the problems. That's what I'm going to try. Great video though. Thanks for sharing
I restore 70's Chevelles .After I get the insides of the frame shaled , the best I can , I let it dry right out . Then I spray Rust-Mort or a compatable product . I make up a long wond of brake tubing , and put a rose-bud tip on it from a garden weed sprayer . I put the Rust-Mort in the sprayer container , then attach a air hose and in-line trigger [ regulated ] .Drawing the wand through the frame , gets everything .I let the excess drip on the ground . Its an acid . it etches the rusty metal , and turns the rust into carbon . Then I let it dry again . Then I use the same wand set-up to spray the paint of your choice .Again I spray it with the rose-bud tip , till its running out everywhere . Jeeps tend to rust over the diff arches , and I often have to replace sections . I make cardboard patterns , then cut my shapes from the crusher pile at the scrap yard , cause Im cheap .
Great how-to video. I was curious on how long you've had your jeep. For a 98 it looks to be in really good shape compared to the ones I have looked at. I'm new to the channel so I would like to know more about your jeep. Did you happen to do a walk around video when your first started your channel ? I'm anxious to see your upcoming videos. Thank you for your service.
I've sold the Jeep and have a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser. I needed a little more towing capacity for my overlanding rig. I've taken a break from filming but the FJ is just as much fun and project worthy as the TJ was. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the video. Ready to tackle the same job. Wanted to see if you could expand on a couple things. I see you cut out access in the bumper at the rear. Did you do the same for the front? Just curious because i was curious how you got the larger pieces of rust scale or flacks out when flushing. I may have missed in one of your other videos, maybe you drilled larger drain holes on the underside of the bumper as others often do? Lastly, did you do any degreasing before using eastwoods?
The front frame was not boxed shut. It did have a tube running through it near the opening but it caused little trouble in removing large rust flakes. I did drill larger drain holes at the base of the front frame where it curves up and at the rear where it curves up. I did not use any degreaser in the frame because I don't think there was any oil or grease present and I didn't want any degreaser to moisten the remaining rust and maybe compromise the eastwood's drying and adherence.
Great video! Question. Did you close up the access holes you created after you were finished or did you leave them open? If you closed them what was your process?
Appreciate and enjoy your videos but you made this much more complicated than need be. Buy a Clog Hog that attaches to your pressure washer and clean from the front. Buy tubing and cut the one in the box and extend it. Tape that to an electricians fishing rod and paint away. Job done in hours, not days. (just have to wait until frame dries before painting.
Nah..the best way to straighten the small hose is to tape it streched out on the bench, then use a HEAT GUN CAREFULLY heat the hose and let it cool and repeat until it is STRAIGHT..works very well !!
If you tape a piece of wire to the nozzle tubing it will hold it straight. Also, one can buy an endoscope for your cell phone. That allows you to see inside the frame to check for rust that was missed or check for complete paint coverage after the paint is dry.
Very important to stay on top of this as preventative maintenance. My 2019 JL is showing signs of light rust, especially at the welds, going to tackle this when the weather warms up this spring. Cheers!
Seems like zip-tying a coat hanger or in-wall fish tool to the clear rubber line to give it some rigidity would solve all the problems. That's what I'm going to try. Great video though. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video! Great DIY on what I need to do on my LJ
Also, a 1 1/2 inch hole saw works better for making a hole in the rear cross member instead of a saw & chisel.
Old School: Adapt, improvise, and overcome. Best way to do a job well done, is to pick the brain of others. Thanks for sharing!
AIO is a combat vet's way of life. Looking forward to many missions and equipment prep/repairs. Thanks for the comment.
Love the content. Thank you
I restore 70's Chevelles .After I get the insides of the frame shaled , the best I can , I let it dry right out . Then I spray Rust-Mort or a compatable product . I make up a long wond of brake tubing , and put a rose-bud tip on it from a garden weed sprayer . I put the Rust-Mort in the sprayer container , then attach a air hose and in-line trigger [ regulated ] .Drawing the wand through the frame , gets everything .I let the excess drip on the ground . Its an acid . it etches the rusty metal , and turns the rust into carbon . Then I let it dry again . Then I use the same wand set-up to spray the paint of your choice .Again I spray it with the rose-bud tip , till its running out everywhere . Jeeps tend to rust over the diff arches , and I often have to replace sections . I make cardboard patterns , then cut my shapes from the crusher pile at the scrap yard , cause Im cheap .
You should do a video on this!
Hey I have the same tag on the front of my jeep tj 716th MP bn
377th ARTY - Camp Eagle - Phu Bai, Vietnam
Very helpful maintenance tips to prevent rust on internal frame using highly recommended Eastwood product. Thank you for your service Sir!
Thank you. Looking forward to the community that will evolve around this channel.
Very helpful, thank you. And your plate says disabled veteran, so thank you for your military service.
You're welcome. Thank you.
Awesome video. I will be doing this with my TJ. Thanks.
a possible follow up video could be to get an inexpensive borescope off of Amazon and record some video of the interior frame to confirm coverage
I'm looking into that. The best I can do now is feel inside each of holes and look in the ends. Stay tuned.
Mouse with a camera helmet , and a bag of shelled peanuts . [ Tell him not to pee in there . or no more peanuts ] .
A sewer jetter would do a great job. Can be had for around $30 or maybe less
Great how-to video. I was curious on how long you've had your jeep. For a 98 it looks to be in really good shape compared to the ones I have looked at. I'm new to the channel so I would like to know more about your jeep. Did you happen to do a walk around video when your first started your channel ? I'm anxious to see your upcoming videos. Thank you for your service.
I've sold the Jeep and have a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser. I needed a little more towing capacity for my overlanding rig. I've taken a break from filming but the FJ is just as much fun and project worthy as the TJ was. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the video. Ready to tackle the same job. Wanted to see if you could expand on a couple things. I see you cut out access in the bumper at the rear. Did you do the same for the front? Just curious because i was curious how you got the larger pieces of rust scale or flacks out when flushing. I may have missed in one of your other videos, maybe you drilled larger drain holes on the underside of the bumper as others often do? Lastly, did you do any degreasing before using eastwoods?
The front frame was not boxed shut. It did have a tube running through it near the opening but it caused little trouble in removing large rust flakes. I did drill larger drain holes at the base of the front frame where it curves up and at the rear where it curves up. I did not use any degreaser in the frame because I don't think there was any oil or grease present and I didn't want any degreaser to moisten the remaining rust and maybe compromise the eastwood's drying and adherence.
@@onmission316 Thanks so much! Appreciate all the help and information!
Appreciate the video sir! I'll be doing this to my 1st Gen Sequoia.
Best PM you can do.
Great video! Question. Did you close up the access holes you created after you were finished or did you leave them open? If you closed them what was your process?
I left them open ... primed and painted.
Thanks!@@onmission316
Outstanding helpful video. Nice job and thank you
Thank you.
Appreciate and enjoy your videos but you made this much more complicated than need be. Buy a Clog Hog that attaches to your pressure washer and clean from the front. Buy tubing and cut the one in the box and extend it. Tape that to an electricians fishing rod and paint away. Job done in hours, not days. (just have to wait until frame dries before painting.
I use a piece of a coat hanger and tape the hose to hanger works great you can shape it how you need it
Good idea.
What is the name of the long tool with chain pieces on it that you first inserted to remove or break apart the rust?
It's a plumber's "snake" normally used for clearing clogs in pipes.
@@onmission316 Thanks!
thank you for this.
My frame was all rotted on the bottom had to cut it off and weld new on
Very common problem. Worth the save and a little annual preventive maintenance will add years to the ride.
stop using salt on your roads. sand works better, anyway.
No salt here. We’re in South Carolina. We don’t even need sand on our roads, we use it on the beach.
Nah..the best way to straighten the small hose is to tape it streched out on the bench, then use a HEAT GUN CAREFULLY heat the hose and let it cool and repeat until it is STRAIGHT..works very well !!