How I Solder Vertical Copper Fittings Make Clean, Sealed, Sweat Connection
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- Опубликовано: 23 июн 2021
- In this video, I am soldering the final sweat connection, for my sprinkler system. I have a vertical copper fitting that faces down. First I clean the copper pipe and fittings. Next I ream out the inside of the pipe to reduce turbulence. Flux is needed to make solder flow around pipe. Over applying flux will lead to a runny messy solder joint. Therefore I show how to correctly apply flus. Finally I hear the copper pipe and melt solder into fitting.
The Great Hacker always works like crazy !
I'm working on something similar, I'm using 1 inch copper pipe type K, covered with 20mil tape for underground. Great job on the soldering and that long copper elbow looks better than the regular one.
As a fitter the most important thing for me for a leak free and good looking joint is cleaning the fittings and pipe! Usually I'll cut the fitting brush handle off and put the brush in a drill. I always use a scotch pad to clean my copper. Never use old flux! I use solderlene flux which is my favorite btw. And I always use silvabrite 100 as my solder. I try to always the right size tips when soldering with my B-tank, But sometimes I use whatever tip will work. I personally would have soldered the horizontal part of the 90 first then hit the vertical while the fitting was still hot so I can let the solder wick in and try to form a cap. Never wipe a fitting while the solder is still in a liquid state. Maybe you did that show show the subscribers just the vertical soldering? But everyone has their own way of doing things. Keep up the good work Bill!!
I know they say not to do it but I put a tiny amount of flux in the female fitting. Wiped clean with my finger. I find it gives me a perfect joint everytime. StaySilv solder is my go to.
The additional heat you did was interesting but more than likely unnecessary. You don't want to heat a pipe any more than you need to. Place the heat where you want the solder to go, get the solder in and call it a day.
Only thing that stops me from flux inside a small fitting. If a boiler it clogs the air vent over time.
Yes but the flux doesn’t melt into the water until the boiler is actually on. Yet I like to put flux sometimes on 1-1/2 and up copper just to make sure it spreads evenly.
@@thehvachacker Do you Solder your HVAC line set also..❓❓
Nice neat job Hackster as per usual ...
Looks good bro 👍
Everybody has the method, just my 02.....I Do not like to use a wet rag until things are cooled to wipe off excess flux. Just the way I was told years ago. Lost art soldering, I do not do enough. Everything pex and crimps for cost.
That coupling is ON you, it's the plumber that installed you gas pipe. On the fittings, Do you draw sand the Face of the fitting?
Yes I sand or clean the face of the fittings. Many don’t, I feel it helps the solder make a better seal. I wonder if I straightened out my meter if the utility company would care. You are correct. Past the meter is where I would tap off a gas line. Before is utility
@@thehvachacker Not many plumber's or HVAC guys do that. I think it makes big difference, been doing since mid 70's,
I can soldier and I’m good at it . But lately I can’t braze for nothing . I don’t know what the hell is going on . Lol
Sounds just like me
Too small a tip or not enough heat. With solder we control the heat. Brazing you need to cook the copper. Why I prefer staybrite 8. Also if your new to nitrogen purging. Just need to get use to it. When I finally decided I would try purging while brazing. The first few joints were nothing to be proud of. Even had to redo cause of leaks.
@@thehvachacker I think that's my issue. I feel like I'm over heating the material while in soldering it's like a few seconds and ready to solder and any longer you ruin what you are working with.
@@thehvachacker I do a 1 minute purge at 150 psi . But I have been using staybrite 8 and I do like it .
Great soldering technique!
Nice Job. Everything looks level and plumb
Not sure why I feel like I am creating art. On a canvas very few will be very see, or care about. Years ago wh n I was a helper I had a Forman who if the piping wasn’t, straight, squared and level. He would make me rip it out and redo it.
@@thehvachacker I agree 100 percent. Jobs look so much better when things are level and straight. Especially when the project is for your own place.
flux is actually a cleaner and keeps the copper from oxidizing, which is why it should be applied evenly to both halves of all joints being sweated. without it applied properly, the copper can/will oxidize and you may not get good flow over the hole joint. only applying to the pipe and not socket doesn't coat it properly and you can end up with poor flow and bad joints (fitting pull tests would show it fast). same issue occurs sweating on dielectric unions with the bushing and nut in place, you'll never heat it enough and end up with a "rim solder", yeah it may hold for many years or start to leak within minutes/hours/days/weeks/months/years.
not ball busting, but trying to help all :)
I'll append this. fluxing one side only, is about equivalent of only cleaning and cementing pvc/abs pipe. the cleaner(primer) and glue will just ball up and peel down the pipe O.D. with near zero penetration into the socket. a stiff breeze or natural expansion and contraction will knock it apart pretty fast(non-pressurized!) far easier than rim soldered copper, but still!.
Is there a reason why you went copper from the backflow to the sprinkler manifold instead of PVC?
I was considering it. It would cost less. I know most do that. My answer may only make sense to me. I like how it looks.
More fun soldering than glueing!
Nice. Everything looks level and plumb.
I believe it will also handle being in the sun better than pvc. Pvc can become chalky exposed to the sun.
@@thehvachacker fair point, was also worrying about oxidation of the copper as well
I think that coupling on the gas line is a conduit coupling. They're more of a sleeve with straight threads (non-tapered) so that the conduit can be threaded in until the sticks touch. Definitely not the correct thing for gas lines. I'm surprised they got it to seal, must have used a lot of dope.
I was modifying existing copper pipes for water line, it was the worst thing ever, valve wasn't holding and there was water still getting into the pipe, nearly impossible to get it up to temperature, steam was everywhere and it leaked the first time I did it lol
That’s where I grab the propress. I always grab my torch. Yet sucks when water stops pipe from getting hot enough for the solder. Been there many times. Did you try the old bread trick? It works when water keeps dropping from on top. Never tried it when water was still entering the main
@@thehvachacker I heard about that trick, but I was afraid to use it as it was 15mm copper going to various places including a furnace. Would most likely need to install additional valve just to blow out the bread. If the leak was any bigger I think it would be the only way
hint, wet/dry shop vac with small diameter steel/stainless tubing(1/4 or less) down the inside past the joint being sweated or through open ball-valve (slow leaking curb-stop with indoor sweated shutoff fix), I have replaced some for peanuts that was quoted $10K+ after digging up yard and street. it works for all small seeping/trickling flows.
just use a tubing/pipe that wont melt, or sweat in place if it contacts the wrong area and solder creeps in (none of us are perfect and it happens)
I'm a mess maker. I get paranoid so I go around it again and then the mess begins
If you take a licensing test some inspectors will only give you just enough solder to build the project, if you waste it you won’t have enough to hit all the joints. Rule of thumb is 1x the pipe size. So 1/2” of solder for a 1/2” fitting
@@OnTheToolsWithSal I've seen to many things fail from not enough solder so I use enough so it don't ever leak from not enough solder
Great soldering technique!