Here are the tools and materials I used in this video (affiliate links): Torch assembly: amzn.to/39s66Bp Pencil reamer: amzn.to/2wcVJ6d Tinning Flux: amzn.to/2ON4uKs 3M Scuff Pads (Coarse): amzn.to/2uwPMkc Lead Free Solder (95/5): amzn.to/2EoqSFb Flat File (8"): amzn.to/2OJNrZZ
One thing i do different when soldering 2"+ L copper pipe is i focus the heat first on the Pipe going into the fitting. That way the pipe is already hot and expanded in the fitting. Then i focus the heat on the cup of the fitting. Nice work!
Yeah I do that too but only when I am soldering a lead-free valve for example because it doesn't transfer heat as well to the pipe ;) But yeah, heating the pipe a little can only help, thanks LorenzKamo!
Yep, when you get into bigger stuff, preheat and heat control is super important. On stuff bigger than 1", I use bigger torch tips to increase the BTU output/flame size, moving into a triple tip with propane/MAPP on 2" and bigger. Oxy/Acetylene is ok too, but I find that the lower temp of the MAPP or propane flame gives cleaner results in my experience. Another thing I haven't heard mentioned - you can use the "rainbow" color transition as an indicator that the joint was properly heated. Just a touch of rainbow evenly distributed? Perfect. Too much rainbow = too much heat. No rainbow = cold joint. Source: I have soldered 1000's of joints in large radiant hydronic systems.
That's really good work. Nice techniques. I like the fact that you start the solder on the bottom ( it's one of those "duh" moments for me) Why didn't I think of that, years ago? Nice job, man!
I remember my father long ago telling me to concentrate the flame where you want the solder to travel to. I've soldered 4" copper lines with oxy/acetylene with great success. An occasional 6" line, but they can be a bear to keep the entire joint hot enough. All piping was for potable water in a beverage manufacturing plant. Beautiful job. Just one thing I always kept in mind. Once you clean the joint don't touch it, especially with your your fingers. Dirt and oil from your hands will ruin your day.
Proper joint integrity was EXtremely important where I worked. The plant was located in an awkward location in the municipal water system. Normal supply was 150psi, but Often got surges/hammers and the result was up to 215psi. That pressure was great when you had to fill 20,000 gallon tanks quickly, but also was a concern in other area's of the plant. That led to various plant wide regulators, surge arrestors, expansion loops whatever the situation required. Was an interesting job.
You need one of those multiple tip torches. I’ve never used one personally. The biggest pipe I’ve soldered was 4” and acetylene with a 1/2” tip worked fine but I’ve seen those torches with multiple tips and was always curious how much they helped. I’m sure they wouldn’t be worth it unless you solder 3” plus regularly.
I stumbled upon your video looking for ways to direct water away from a newly built shed and landscaped as it is raining like heck with ground recently frozen up here in western maine and pooling in low spots. I keep clicking non-stop on your video's as they are all awesome. I originally thought I was "the man" but, after seeing your video's I am not as skilled as I thought I was. You sir are "the man". I will just keep on clicking and learning. I love to learn and keep educating myself on how-to home repairs and such. I like to do everything myself and never hire out. Everything comes out really great, good enough or eh. And if I get a nod from wife even the "eh" is great cause she believes I am a hero. And, well that's what it is all about...and money savings too, can't overlook that. And it makes me feel good.
Just did an old kitchen drain. 1.5 inch copper to 1.5 inch cast stack. I've done a fair amount of half and 3/4 inch with propane but the 1.5 was a lot tougher. I was able to do a nice enough job but propane definitely doesn't have enough heat to make easy work of it.
Awesome I’m a UA union plumber love to watch different ppl solder and what they have to offer I always love the way you do things it’s awesome great job bro 🤙🏼
Got2Learn, thanks for the excellent tutorial and for sacrificing your workmanship to prove the effectiveness of your method. I have to replace some corroded 1.5" copper down pipe coming from my bathtub and you saved me from doing it wrong. Keep up the good work and God bless. --mike, Toronto, ON
@@Got2LearnWe did, at 7pm! Apartment tenants wondering when the water will come on. I was worried when I saw him pull out a standard torch; I should have questioned him more then. Sprinkler systems are a pain, plumbers can't work on sprinklers but sprinkler guys have limited experience on copper water supply side.
Great video! I love how you cut it apart and show details. I am soldiering 4" tomorrow for the first time and I'm glad to find anything with larger pipes. There aren't many videos on it.
Wonderful videos! I'm a subscriber and was up most of the night watching your videos. Have some things to do in my home and you are a great source of information. Thank you.
I'm old school. I'll take a shop rag and wipe the joint before the solder freezes. It looks better, and you can see any imperfections in the joint. If in doubt? Run another pass.
Amazing Job. I really like how you explained. Thank you. Is it possible at some point to make a video on how to plan and execute the piping for a bathroom? Thank you again for your good work.
@@Got2Learn that sounds greate. Looking forward for it. I recently started a small renovation project and you really helped me do a good job. Thank you again
I forgot how much easier it is with an acetylene torch. We don’t solder as much anymore so I only carry a little mapp gas torch. The only time I’ll pull out acetylene is 3”+
Hi, I love your videos. They are clear and concise. I was wondering, have you ever used a soldering tip that's rounded? There's this one by uniweld called capn hook? It looks interesting and possibly less susceptible to user error. Can you do like a test with it? Thanks.
I like your videos Dave, and you know what, I have a video on how to solder a lead-free valve coming up soon, thanks for being on the channel man :))))))
@@Got2Learn I should be thanking you being an HVAC tech who seeks everyday for valuable information, and you provide highly refined tips, it shows obviously from your every video, how meticulous, sharp, widely experienced, educated, attentive you are, also your unique voice with the natural dynamics and the intonations you have are entertaining and magnetic. I am a fan of your plumbing topics. Hats off brother
Thank you for the video. For cutting any size over 3/4 I like my portaband and debur/chamfer with a flap disc, soldering 1 1/2 and up I use an acetylene TurboTorch.
Greetings! I am interested in your concept. In your comments you stated anything over 3/4 inch you cut with a certain tool. I am looking for a easier way to cut piping in tight, tight, places.
@@JerryLynch2 I use the portaband for cutting any pipe I can but in tight spaces I use an angle grinder with a cutting wheel, it leaves a lot of material to be deburred but does the trick.
@inodoroguerrero First off, let me say thanks for getting back to me so fast! I never used a porta band to cut pipes. I am in Ohio and run into split pipes from cold weather. Boiler baseboard pipes are really soft. The 360 clamp on cutter crushes them. I use my Ridgid with the know and just go slow, but some of them I have to cut back further than I'd like and now you need double couplers, etc. On the Port-aband what size blade should I use? The finer would be better, right? Will it leave my cut straight?
@@JerryLynch2 Yeah, the hydronic baseboard copper pipe is lighter than type m, the Ridgid mini is a great option. 14-18 TPI is my preference on bandsaw blades.
@@inodoroguerrero Awesome! Thanks for your input. I appreciate your time and sharing of knowledge. Since reading your tip; I have been watching cordless porta-band videos. I am already Milwaukee tooled up and will probably pull the trigger on one of their models. Thanks for everything!
Dude, I just wanted to drop a comment to give you a shout-out and big thanks! I'm a 5 year plumber and have been obsessively watching your channel for a while now. You gave me a lot of cool ideas and tips! 🤘😀 *KEEP PRODUCING NEW CONTENT BECAUSE ITS INTERESTING* 😀👌
Wow, thank you so much for leaving this comment, you've made my day!!!!!! Please share if you can, it helps the channel out so much, you can't imagine!
@@Got2Learn Can you do a "explaining fixture units" video or "pipe sizing" when running waste/vent/water supply/etc. IDK if you guys do the same codes as USA (UPC and IPC) Striving to get my journeymans license 😁👌
Yes I am working on another similar video as the "Failed Inspection" video I recently did which will go thru pipe sizing and vents for a basic bathroom, so that should pretty much be what you are looking for. When is it going to be out? Not soon, it's quite complicated for me to make because I am used to the NPC codebook (Canada) so I gotta really do my research about IPC/UPC before coming out with a video like this, or it'll haunt me forever hehe ;)
@@Got2Learn wow fast reply i bought the same torch as you the Lincoln Electric Port-A-Torch Kit. How long should i heat up the the 2 in copper? before feeding the solder. too afraid to melt the copper with this powerful torch because it's my first time DIY
@@Got2Learnnice I got that right now! I measure the circumstance of the outside copper pipe to be 5 1/16 inch. what pipe do i need and can you sent me a link? is it a 1 1/2 inch copper pipe that I have right now? thanks
Thank you for all of your great videos - my solder joints and I both thank you. Btw - I don't have a 2 gas system, just propane,- but I do have a turbo torch head that generates a much hotter flame than a standard propone torch head. Do you think that will be sufficient for a 2inch copper pipe?
You solder starting from the bottom then upward. I do the opposite way by starting my solder from the top going downwards. The reason, Gravity. Solder will drip downwards and if you start from the top, solder will not pile up the way it does when you start from the bottom because in the end, they will accumulate at the bottom of the pipe. But this only applies to a horizontal pipe and not a vertical pipe. 4:53
Doesn’t matter where you start really. gravity doesn’t really matter because the solder goes into the joint with capillary action. Starting at the bottom of the fitting is how I do it too because heat rises and the top half of the fitting heats up while you solder the bottom. It’s faster. To each their own. Good points Made by all ! Great to hear others opinion.
Hmm, I just soldered a half dozen 1 1/4” joints and I now see I wasted a lot of time. I was doing it the same as 1/2” 3/4” by heating one side and just wait until the whole joint is hot enough to melt and draw the solder over. I used 2 small torches, and I really only added solder to the top 1/2 of the pipe. Yet I used lots and there was a decent amount that dripped by the time I was done. I might have to get a MAP gas tank and torch. Do they really need a specific torch? Wish I would’ve watched this first, damn.
Yeah....imo, as of 1 1/2" it's better you get a nice strong torch, but 1 1/4" or less, a normal torch will do just fine. I used to solder 2" with a normal propane torch, but it's much quicker with a btank ;)
When you say "re-solder" what do you mean, do you mean, just adding flux and then adding solder, or dismantling the whole thing and re soldering it from square one?
@@Got2Learn I have a pin hole leak at top end if a 2" T. Currenttly I wrapped duck tape to stop leak. Can I clean area and add flux. adding solder without taking apart?
I didn’t come here to learn, I have already done my apprenticeship. Just seen this video thumbnail and came for a laugh. Dude, you don’t need to move your torch parallel with your solder as you push it in and fill because all you do is melt it on the surface because it melts off the spool and falls. When the fitting is at the right temp it takes the solder (first year knowledge) second, use the hottest part of the flame to heat the fitting AND the pipe so they expand equally But focus more on the fitting. You are using the flame envelope to heat the fitting which takes way longer and you oxidize the fitting hence the discolorization. Based on the fitting color, I am sure you brushed it with flux to clean it up before you extensively polished it to cover up an barely average solder joint. Technically it’s filled and should hold, but man, clean up that technique and solder more. Looks like you haven’t soldered a lot of 2”, let alone 3” and up
Here are the tools and materials I used in this video (affiliate links):
Torch assembly: amzn.to/39s66Bp
Pencil reamer: amzn.to/2wcVJ6d
Tinning Flux: amzn.to/2ON4uKs
3M Scuff Pads (Coarse): amzn.to/2uwPMkc
Lead Free Solder (95/5): amzn.to/2EoqSFb
Flat File (8"): amzn.to/2OJNrZZ
What torch tip size for that? Im about to use my uniweld oxy/acet brazing torch but need a larger tip for 2"
That's a 3/4" joint
@@gabrielramos3385 2"
One thing i do different when soldering 2"+ L copper pipe is i focus the heat first on the Pipe going into the fitting. That way the pipe is already hot and expanded in the fitting. Then i focus the heat on the cup of the fitting. Nice work!
Yeah I do that too but only when I am soldering a lead-free valve for example because it doesn't transfer heat as well to the pipe ;) But yeah, heating the pipe a little can only help, thanks LorenzKamo!
@@Got2Learn Great content as always
thanks!!!!!!!!!!
Yep, that's the way I was taught to silver braze copper nickel pipe and fittings. Heat up the pipe, then the fitting.
Yep, when you get into bigger stuff, preheat and heat control is super important. On stuff bigger than 1", I use bigger torch tips to increase the BTU output/flame size, moving into a triple tip with propane/MAPP on 2" and bigger. Oxy/Acetylene is ok too, but I find that the lower temp of the MAPP or propane flame gives cleaner results in my experience. Another thing I haven't heard mentioned - you can use the "rainbow" color transition as an indicator that the joint was properly heated. Just a touch of rainbow evenly distributed? Perfect. Too much rainbow = too much heat. No rainbow = cold joint. Source: I have soldered 1000's of joints in large radiant hydronic systems.
FINALLY....... SOMEONE WHO KNOWS HOW TO SOLDER......
ALWAYS START AT BOTTOM OF FITTING AND LET THE SOLDER STACK ON ITSELF.........
I’m going to start sending these videos to my apprentice. Great job
Awesome, thank you!!
@@Got2Learn you the man. Thanks for your videos. Shit really helps us people trying to learn.
🙏🙏🙏
That's really good work. Nice techniques. I like the fact that you start the solder on the bottom ( it's one of those "duh" moments for me) Why didn't I think of that, years ago? Nice job, man!
I remember my father long ago telling me to concentrate the flame where you want the solder to travel to.
I've soldered 4" copper lines with oxy/acetylene with great success. An occasional 6" line, but they can be a bear to keep the entire joint hot enough. All piping was for potable water in a beverage manufacturing plant.
Beautiful job. Just one thing I always kept in mind. Once you clean the joint don't touch it, especially with your your fingers. Dirt and oil from your hands will ruin your day.
Yes, good tip, don't touch with your fingers or you might create a spot where the solder won't go! Thanks Matt!
Proper joint integrity was EXtremely important where I worked. The plant was located in an awkward location in the municipal water system. Normal supply was 150psi, but Often got surges/hammers and the result was up to 215psi.
That pressure was great when you had to fill 20,000 gallon tanks quickly, but also was a concern in other area's of the plant. That led to various plant wide regulators, surge arrestors, expansion loops whatever the situation required. Was an interesting job.
You need one of those multiple tip torches. I’ve never used one personally. The biggest pipe I’ve soldered was 4” and acetylene with a 1/2” tip worked fine but I’ve seen those torches with multiple tips and was always curious how much they helped. I’m sure they wouldn’t be worth it unless you solder 3” plus regularly.
I stumbled upon your video looking for ways to direct water away from a newly built shed and landscaped as it is raining like heck with ground recently frozen up here in western maine and pooling in low spots. I keep clicking non-stop on your video's as they are all awesome. I originally thought I was "the man" but, after seeing your video's I am not as skilled as I thought I was. You sir are "the man". I will just keep on clicking and learning. I love to learn and keep educating myself on how-to home repairs and such. I like to do everything myself and never hire out. Everything comes out really great, good enough or eh. And if I get a nod from wife even the "eh" is great cause she believes I am a hero. And, well that's what it is all about...and money savings too, can't overlook that. And it makes me feel good.
Learning is everything, cheers my friend 😉
Just did an old kitchen drain. 1.5 inch copper to 1.5 inch cast stack.
I've done a fair amount of half and 3/4 inch with propane but the 1.5 was a lot tougher. I was able to do a nice enough job but propane definitely doesn't have enough heat to make easy work of it.
That is awesome!
You saved me $1400 two weeks ago!!!! Thank you!
That's crazy, mission accomplished for you and I ! :))))))
@@Got2Learn See?I'm not the only one that finds contractor's and plumber's fees/rates hard to believe and even harder to pay for.
Awesome I’m a UA union plumber love to watch different ppl solder and what they have to offer I always love the way you do things it’s awesome great job bro 🤙🏼
Awesome, thanks brother!!
i love to see a pro at work. Thanx again for another great informative video.
Thanks for watching!
Great step by step and no wasting of time. With this explanation I am going to remove the dang shark bite valves they installed.
Great video am a plumber in Trinidad never solder 2" but the way you apply your technique of heating is like when butt welding
TY. Having trouble with 1.25" and had no idea why. TY again.
Got2Learn, thanks for the excellent tutorial and for sacrificing your workmanship to prove the effectiveness of your method. I have to replace some corroded 1.5" copper down pipe coming from my bathtub and you saved me from doing it wrong. Keep up the good work and God bless.
--mike, Toronto, ON
You are most welcome Michael 😇
I needed you last Friday ! The sprinkler company I hired couldn't get their 2" solder joint to seal. We had to call in a plumber at 5pm on a Friday!
Ahhh that sux man, did you get it fixed finally?
@@Got2LearnWe did, at 7pm! Apartment tenants wondering when the water will come on. I was worried when I saw him pull out a standard torch; I should have questioned him more then. Sprinkler systems are a pain, plumbers can't work on sprinklers but sprinkler guys have limited experience on copper water supply side.
@@rockyravine1155 👌
Love the animated bits, so well done and very professional 👌🏻👏🏻🙌🏻😍 the best as always!!!!!! Thank you Got2learn 😀🤗
You are welcome :)
Hello
One of the best soldering videos. Thank you.
Thank you!!
Great video! I love how you cut it apart and show details. I am soldiering 4" tomorrow for the first time and I'm glad to find anything with larger pipes. There aren't many videos on it.
Awesomeeee, have fun, 4" is really fun to solder!!
Howd it go?
Wonderful videos! I'm a subscriber and was up most of the night watching your videos. Have some things to do in my home and you are a great source of information. Thank you.
I am happy to keep you up at night 😂 thank you so much!!!
I like the way you explain, so Profitional
THANK YOU FOR THE TIME YOU SPEND TO MAKE THIS VIDEO❤
So nice of you!!!
Great video. I actually have a job on this weekend working with 54mm copper pipe. 👍
Awesome, lotsa fun man, cheers!
Never worked on that large pipe before. Largest I done is 32mm in copper. I have done 100mm in steel that’s all fabricated fittings (pre welded)
I'm old school. I'll take a shop rag and wipe the joint before the solder freezes. It looks better, and you can see any imperfections in the joint. If in doubt? Run another pass.
A superfire with mapp gas does the job fine. No need for bottles and hoses
Yeah like I said, that would do, I just have this kit cuz I also braze and oxy cut ;)
But I heard Mapp is now just branded version of propane and doesn’t burn hotter.
It burns a tad bit harder, not like the real mapp gas.
Just an excellent video, I learned quite a bit, thanks!
Amazing Job. I really like how you explained. Thank you.
Is it possible at some point to make a video on how to plan and execute the piping for a bathroom?
Thank you again for your good work.
Yes of course, I am working on a video like that as we speak! :))))))
@@Got2Learn that sounds greate. Looking forward for it. I recently started a small renovation project and you really helped me do a good job. Thank you again
Awesome Dany, love hearing this!
Haven’t seen two inch copper in a long time.
Even more wild when you see it used in old sprinkler systems, buried beneath the ground.
You should do a video on soldering 2 inch brass values copper. Great technique on the copper fittings.
I have a video coming on how to solder lead-free fittings, it's gonna be interesting.
You sure know your stuff, and thanks for the continuing tips!!
You are welcome Chris, I ain't stopping anytime soon :))))
Thank you I think you should upload more often.
Thank you so much!!!
Outstanding and so interesting
Thanks you very much A, I really appreciate it buddy!
I forgot how much easier it is with an acetylene torch. We don’t solder as much anymore so I only carry a little mapp gas torch. The only time I’ll pull out acetylene is 3”+
Hi, I love your videos. They are clear and concise.
I was wondering, have you ever used a soldering tip that's rounded? There's this one by uniweld called capn hook? It looks interesting and possibly less susceptible to user error. Can you do like a test with it? Thanks.
you watched my vid on taking the joint apart thanks. now you are the 2nd youtube to take apart the joint to make sure that its verified. woohoo!!!...
Watched your vid lol??
@@Got2Learn nice eh.
I like your videos Dave, and you know what, I have a video on how to solder a lead-free valve coming up soon, thanks for being on the channel man :))))))
@@Got2Learn kick ass
Good content. Great channel. Keep it up and thank you.
Thanks buddy, really appreciate it!
superior video ... great lesson
Thanks! 😃
Great video and great information
Excellent knowledge, interpretation and presentation, wooooow
Thank you soooo much man 🤗🤗🤗
@@Got2Learn I should be thanking you being an HVAC tech who seeks everyday for valuable information, and you provide highly refined tips, it shows obviously from your every video, how meticulous, sharp, widely experienced, educated, attentive you are, also your unique voice with the natural dynamics and the intonations you have are entertaining and magnetic. I am a fan of your plumbing topics. Hats off brother
This channel needs more like you, cheers my man 🍻
Your videos are always the best - Thanks for all you help. You are a great mentor.
Glad you like them!!!
When I made my still I silver brazed 2 and 3 inch copper type L. I used a chop saw to cut it clean and straight....just go very slow.
Another great video as usual details accurate amazing
Thanks IRON, really appreciate it man, thank you so much for being part of this channel bud, have a great day man ;)
Thank you for the video. For cutting any size over 3/4 I like my portaband and debur/chamfer with a flap disc, soldering 1 1/2 and up I use an acetylene TurboTorch.
Greetings!
I am interested in your concept. In your comments you stated anything over 3/4 inch you cut with a certain tool. I am looking for a easier way to cut piping in tight, tight, places.
@@JerryLynch2 I use the portaband for cutting any pipe I can but in tight spaces I use an angle grinder with a cutting wheel, it leaves a lot of material to be deburred but does the trick.
@inodoroguerrero
First off, let me say thanks for getting back to me so fast! I never used a porta band to cut pipes. I am in Ohio and run into split pipes from cold weather. Boiler baseboard pipes are really soft. The 360 clamp on cutter crushes them. I use my Ridgid with the know and just go slow, but some of them I have to cut back further than I'd like and now you need double couplers, etc.
On the Port-aband what size blade should I use? The finer would be better, right? Will it leave my cut straight?
@@JerryLynch2 Yeah, the hydronic baseboard copper pipe is lighter than type m, the Ridgid mini is a great option. 14-18 TPI is my preference on bandsaw blades.
@@inodoroguerrero
Awesome! Thanks for your input. I appreciate your time and sharing of knowledge. Since reading your tip; I have been watching cordless porta-band videos. I am already Milwaukee tooled up and will probably pull the trigger on one of their models. Thanks for everything!
Dude, I just wanted to drop a comment to give you a shout-out and big thanks! I'm a 5 year plumber and have been obsessively watching your channel for a while now. You gave me a lot of cool ideas and tips!
🤘😀 *KEEP PRODUCING NEW CONTENT BECAUSE ITS INTERESTING* 😀👌
Wow, thank you so much for leaving this comment, you've made my day!!!!!! Please share if you can, it helps the channel out so much, you can't imagine!
@@Got2Learn not a problem.
Do you take suggestion or questions for new videos by chance?
Of course! :)
@@Got2Learn Can you do a "explaining fixture units" video or "pipe sizing" when running waste/vent/water supply/etc. IDK if you guys do the same codes as USA (UPC and IPC)
Striving to get my journeymans license 😁👌
Yes I am working on another similar video as the "Failed Inspection" video I recently did which will go thru pipe sizing and vents for a basic bathroom, so that should pretty much be what you are looking for.
When is it going to be out? Not soon, it's quite complicated for me to make because I am used to the NPC codebook (Canada) so I gotta really do my research about IPC/UPC before coming out with a video like this, or it'll haunt me forever hehe ;)
Excellent vídeo, thanks 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Renato!
Great Vid!! Could you explain how to solder a couple in horizontal and vertical joints for 2”size too?
I could, but honestly, it's kinda similar to this technique, but with the bigger torch hehe: ruclips.net/video/NQmWLr1qBsM/видео.html
Got2Learn I have prácticed using your vtideos, but I tried with bigger diameters and I think the method doesn’t work the sane way!!!
Thanks a lot!!
hello my kitchen leak badly after watching this video i have more confidence doing replacement maybe
what is the best torch for 2in the copper pipe?
Acetylene.
@@Got2Learn wow fast reply i bought the same torch as you the Lincoln Electric Port-A-Torch Kit. How long should i heat up the the 2 in copper? before feeding the solder. too afraid to melt the copper with this powerful torch because it's my first time DIY
For 2" it takes about 20-30 seconds before it starts melting the solder, but you must circle around with the heat, unlike smaller diameter piping.
@@Got2Learnnice I got that right now! I measure the circumstance of the outside copper pipe to be 5 1/16 inch. what pipe do i need and can you sent me a link? is it a 1 1/2 inch copper pipe that I have right now? thanks
Like dividing the diameter of the pipe in 4 quarters
*You forgot to mention MapGas if you need better heat than propane*
Mapgas is discontinued. Thanks for watching!
@@Got2Learn actually I buy it all the time at Home Depot...good sweat though 👍
The gas you are buying is MAP Pro, which is "propene" and burns a tiny bit hotter than propane, but it's not real MAP gas.
Thank you for all of your great videos - my solder joints and I both thank you.
Btw - I don't have a 2 gas system, just propane,- but I do have a turbo torch head that generates a much hotter flame than a standard propone torch head. Do you think that will be sufficient for a 2inch copper pipe?
You can get away with it yes, but it's easier with the 2 tank setup, cheers man 🤟
Look at the triple tip setups for propane/MAPP. I prefer them to Oxy/Acetylene for large copper.
Good instructive video
Much appreciated, please share if you can, thanks Roger!
Awesome video like always !
Thanks Art, have a great day bud!!
I like to use a turbo torch.. heat is your friend. The more you have the faster you have to work.
You solder starting from the bottom then upward. I do the opposite way by starting my solder from the top going downwards. The reason, Gravity. Solder will drip downwards and if you start from the top, solder will not pile up the way it does when you start from the bottom because in the end, they will accumulate at the bottom of the pipe. But this only applies to a horizontal pipe and not a vertical pipe. 4:53
Doesn’t matter where you start really. gravity doesn’t really matter because the solder goes into the joint with capillary action. Starting at the bottom of the fitting is how I do it too because heat rises and the top half of the fitting heats up while you solder the bottom. It’s faster. To each their own. Good points
Made by all ! Great to hear others opinion.
I love hearing how other people solder their joints.
WRONG ! Doesn't matter were you start. Solder will always flow towards were the heat source is located.
Hmm, I just soldered a half dozen 1 1/4” joints and I now see I wasted a lot of time. I was doing it the same as 1/2” 3/4” by heating one side and just wait until the whole joint is hot enough to melt and draw the solder over.
I used 2 small torches, and I really only added solder to the top 1/2 of the pipe. Yet I used lots and there was a decent amount that dripped by the time I was done.
I might have to get a MAP gas tank and torch. Do they really need a specific torch? Wish I would’ve watched this first, damn.
I have never worked with 2 inch copper in residential. Is this a commercial job?
Commercial, yes ;)
Why am I burning the fittings and what do I need to adjust on my tank to prevent this? Or might I need to clean my tip orifice? Thanks
Too much heat.
So, when using a acetylene torch, how long do you heat the fitting/pipe before applying the solder?
When the solder starts to be pulled in.
how about 1-1/4"? I'm having a hell of a time getting a nipple to properly solder.
What’s your oxy acetylene ratio? And what size tip are you using? I solder 3” using just acetylene and have never had a problem
50/50, size 2 tip.
Got2Learn psi?
10/10
THX another great video.
You are very welcome, please share :)))))
Solid info as usual 😁👏👏👏👏
Thx man!!!!
@@Got2Learn no, thank you
😊😊
Like a boss👍
Thanks man, your the best bro!!!
A lot of goodness in there.👍
It's all about the goodness 👍
Do 3 " once in a while, 2 map gas torches get the job done you just can't rush the job.
Yeah it takes more time, but it can be done ;)
Rose bud works better on 2 inch and larger.
@@joshm5816 Go big or go home
@@tallbrian100 Rose bud is big. Been plumbing over 2 decades.
@@joshm5816 Yep, have only used the, for heating steel.
2:08 Mff, that is the fingy of a working man
👉
It doesnt happend to you to get some gap between the fitting and the pipe ? Cause the fitting is maybe 1/32 bigger ?
Gap? No this never happened to me.
Thanks for the vid!
Thank you so much, I love your videos too :))))
You da man!!
Safety glasses. You mean binoculars 😅
Thank you for the education sir.
😁😇
The size of that pipe FFS bro do 15mm and 22mm
What about a good mix of solder flux
Don't forget solder ring ones aswell
Spot on video bro 👍🙂
I don't understand?
Thanks man!
Dont matter bro keep the vids coming 👍
Thanks Da ve, will do :)
what would cause a dramatic drop in water pressure when you flush the toilet, wash your clothes etc.
The size pipe you have ;)
You forgot to mention that it works by capillary attraction
if he had mentioned capillary action most of youtubers wouldn't have known what capillary action is anyways lol.
; ₩
I want to buy a bunch of copper and start practicing just for the hell of it.
Gooooo!!! 🤘🤘🤘
Thank you!
You are welcome Pat!
Desoldering these same way in reverse?
great channel
Do you plan on doing any brazing tutorials?
Already have: ruclips.net/video/LdCK58UcnhA/видео.html
Thank you 🙏
My pleasure Jose ;)
What about 1 inch or inch and a quarter copper do you need a special torch or can you use the same one that you use for 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch copper?
One or the other :)
You mean I can use either torch?
Yeah....imo, as of 1 1/2" it's better you get a nice strong torch, but 1 1/4" or less, a normal torch will do just fine. I used to solder 2" with a normal propane torch, but it's much quicker with a btank ;)
@@Got2Learn thanks
What is the pressure for the flame
5psi aceth. 5psi oxy.
Is it safe to say that a 2” joint takes 2 inches of solder to fill?
Yup.
U can use a mapp gass tank to butit takes forever
Perfect❗️👍
Thanks Luis, please share if you can :)))
Where are you based? Great vid
MONTREAL 🙂
@@Got2Learn cool 👍☺️
✌
I want you to do this on a 3" or 4"
Sure!
Thanks
No problem Elhadi :)
Why don't u use tubing cutters
It was an existing pipe that was cut off by a grinder and my pipe would not of fit in the wall ;)
Can you re-solder a leaking 2" elbow?
When you say "re-solder" what do you mean, do you mean, just adding flux and then adding solder, or dismantling the whole thing and re soldering it from square one?
@@Got2Learn
I have a pin hole leak at top end if a 2" T. Currenttly I wrapped duck tape to stop leak.
Can I clean area and add flux. adding solder without taking apart?
@@Got2Learn
Like to solder without dismantling.
No, you must dismantle it, here's a video I made on this that explains exactly how to do it: ruclips.net/video/8IV7oG43DZ0/видео.html
What tip did you use for that?
Don't remember the tip # but it was the smallest one in the kit, some people use a rosebud tip but in a wall it's not ideal.
@@Got2Learn i just scrolled down and found you used a #2 at 10/10 psi
Ahhhh there you go!!
Where and why would someone use 2 inch copper pipe? Is this a drain?
Commercial potable water line
Do use a pipe cutter instead of a grinder and when you’re using the grinder you gotta wear safety gloves !! PPE!
Or just use PEX tube
409k subscribers .... Saturday December 18, 2021. 75,212 views.
WooooohooooO!!!!
I followed your instructions to a T but after the fifth time of opening it up to inspect my work the customer fired me
I didn’t come here to learn, I have already done my apprenticeship. Just seen this video thumbnail and came for a laugh. Dude, you don’t need to move your torch parallel with your solder as you push it in and fill because all you do is melt it on the surface because it melts off the spool and falls. When the fitting is at the right temp it takes the solder (first year knowledge) second, use the hottest part of the flame to heat the fitting AND the pipe so they expand equally But focus more on the fitting. You are using the flame envelope to heat the fitting which takes way longer and you oxidize the fitting hence the discolorization. Based on the fitting color, I am sure you brushed it with flux to clean it up before you extensively polished it to cover up an barely average solder joint.
Technically it’s filled and should hold, but man, clean up that technique and solder more. Looks like you haven’t soldered a lot of 2”, let alone 3” and up
Idid not see the back?
Go at the end of the video and you get a shot of what it looks like inside, even better ;)
👌🏻
Thanks!
I just watched as much as I could bear of a 2 hours nightmare how to video demonstrating a soldering method that really could use your inputs...
👍
Thanks you very much :)
Great video! Where are you from? I noticed that you take your pronunciation of words very seriously. Russia?
Canada ;)