There have been a few comments on this thread about using a bedliner and its benefits. It all comes down to what you are trying to achieve. If you just want a bash-around truck then they are right. However, if you go touring or are driving the truck on the road, then comfort may be important to you (and your grandma if your taking her back to the nursing home😉). Bedliner doesn't solve any sound or heat issues. Rather, if you are fairly hardcore 4x4ing and are regularly swamping it so you want a hose down finish, you can still treat acoustic and/or thermal issues with a paint by using Lizard Skin Sound Control or Lizard Skin Ceramic (paint). Still, the treatment shown above has taken water exposure into account. As you can see from other videos we have made, the Sound Deadener butyl mats create a water proof barrier preventing water getting between the panel and the mats. The Mass Load Vinyl mats are closed cell foam (water proof, doesn't absorb water) with the vinyl backing so they don't hold water and can also be removed if you have sunk the truck. Also, unlike the factory cotton jute underlay that the troopy's currently run, you will solve the problem of mould and potential rust.
Extremely informative video on the benefits of sound proofing almost any vehicle, especially new vehicles, to increase the perceived quality and value of the vehicle. 1.5 to 2 times sound quietening is an amazing improvement for a few hours of DIY work in a driveway. I'll definitely consider this option when buying my next vehicle. Great video! Keep up the good work with your channel!
Quality product. Did my LC76 with your sound deadener and mass noise liner. Used a lot more sound deadener than that and did the inner skins of the doors too (maybe excessive?). Wife approved modification..
@@adamg9430 we used to have to yell at each other to have a conversation when hwy driving now we don't. The audio quality is also massively improved. Maybe more noticeable that the noise reduction.. guess they go hand in hand. It's definitely worthwhile.
@@rogercole9942 Awesome. Thanks for the feedback. I guess I'll have to hit the boys up when they re-open on the 8th of Jan. We're heading from Melbourne to Perth and back in May, and I don't think the wife and kids fancy donning noise cancelling headphones, even though that prospect seems more than appealing to me! ;)
Looking forward to the painstaking task of doing this to my 2013 TT FJ CRUISER. Thanks to a few hours of watching your videos I now know the hardest part will be removing and reinstalling all the interior and headliner! I will def give you a shout out on my instagrams and Facebook when done. If you can leave that info here in a reply I’ll make sure to give you the credit needed! I have ordered NOICO 80mil and 315mil insulation foam for the ceiling and your video was awesome on the TROOPY ROOF. I have a minor stereo setup just 4 front and 1 12” in the rear in the custom box with a 500watt amp lifted just in case I decide to get it wet down the road. NOW TO THE QUESTIONS: (Keep in mind I would like to return my amazon orders and order your product if that works out even tho I live in Las Vegas NV.) What do you suggest I use to make it a smooth install but not to go to OVERBOARD. I was thinking about just using 315mil closed cell on top of the 80mil butyl for roof, and all 3 sides. But I’m not sure what to do with the floor because my FJ is equipped with a snorkel & with all rubber mats & waterproof seats but the carpet below the rubber mats I’m going to remove *if it gets wet it will mold) Notes: It’s more of a daily driver now, with it becoming more of a toy in the future. The DB inside is pretty low already being a 2013, but I would love the option to get it wet and not have to worry about issues in the future. I am coming from driving Mercedes so I like the quite too. (Will make sure to take special care of you once Vegas recovers too) Brian T. Vegas Promoter/Host ♦️♠️♥️♣️ All Vegas Nightclubs_ Stripclubs, Limos, Hotels + “LIKE” My Instagram: @BrianTvegas & @Babyota_ #885/2500 2013 TT FJ Cruiser EMAIL: BrianTvegas@gmail.com CELL: 1-408-896-5160
To avoid trapping moisture within a door or panel when you add a second vapor barrier (The first vapor barrier is always the exterior sheet metal.) be sure to allow some way for the space between the vapor barriers to vent so that the cavity can dry out. Without some kind of ventilation, condensation has nowhere to go.
Thank you Terry. Yes, it is important to be mindful of vents designed in doors for condensation/water egress. Covering the outer skin and inner door card won't make the door air tight and will still allow for the escape of trapped condensation.
Rob vH Whenever you gain access to a door cavity, clean the drain channel and drain holes. Also clean and lube anything that moves. Also lube the hinges and latch mechanism. This is especially important for the driver’s door, because it’s used the most.
Mercedes used to have workers attach dense pads in body cavities on the exterior sheet metal to prevent drumming. Now, robots squirt surprisingly small amounts of a dense caulking-like material in strategic locations to accomplish the same result.
Wish you guys were in the US, I've never been that interested in premium cars but after putting AT tires on my Subaru I'm really want to get this done.
The BIGGEST difference in the solidity of the “door shutting sound” is achieved NOT from increasing the weight of the door but the QUALITY of door sealing (the rubber door seal). Adding additional rubber door seals to each door is the most cost effective method to most easily create the most solid and tight “door shutting sound” WITHOUT increasing weight of the door. On any Japanese and Korean road cars, this would instantly produce a noticeable reduction in road noise, engine noise and exterior traffic noises from entering the cabin.
I have some genuine questions : 1) In the pursuit of insulation for very cold weather, Would it not be possible to line the rear cargo cards with one or both forms of insulation ? Would they carry the weight ? 2) Is there any reason why you wouldn't lay the silver first barrier insulation on the floors of the troop carrier before installing the foam backed material ? 3) I assume you would advise adding the first and second layers in the roof ceiling too to aid in sound and weather insulation ? 4) What would be your recommendation with covering over the rear windows with insulation to prevent heat loss ? Temporary silver foil such as windscreen sun reflector material ? NB : I am intending to add a diesel heater for quite cold conditions in northern hemisphere. General Comment : Putting the the first and second layers in the front doors would strengthen it. I live on an outback sheep and cattle station and we hit roos all the time. 2 things happen - roos jump straight into the side of the door and the other thing is that they hit the bullbar and spin around which dents the door. This is 90% of 70 series panel damage in the bush. Having both layers would stop damage in many cases I am sure. Your company seems very professional. Thank you.
Thank you Ade. We will ensure that we cover these questions in upcoming videos. However, to briefly address your questions. 1. If you are trying to insulation against extreme weather (rather than targeting sound) we would insulate the floor as we would the walls and roof. Firstly, put down one of our closed cell foams to slow down heat transfer and to act as a condensation barrier. We would then create an air gap with the structure of the floor framing. On this framing we would then blanket off the whole area with our Van Seal. The closed off air gap from the floor pan means that the Van Seal acts effectively as a non-emitter or reflector of heat but the air gap also prevents the conducting of heat out of the internal space. These products are light unlike the Mass Noise Liner which is targeting blanketing sound and it is a much heavier product. 2. We try to minimise the amount people need to purchase as well as limiting additional weight by identifying optimal areas for the sound deadening. The rear cargo has a structured design and doesn't vibrate to the level of the flat panels found in other areas. However, people do cover this area. 3.Yes. Our two stages target both aspects in the roof. Unfortunately Troopcarriers' factory roof lining only allows for one of these products. Many of our customers are trying to reduce sound so we have the sound deadening sheets in the roof. 4. Yes, the windows are a significant factor in heat transfer so some window blankets are very effective. Good luck with your project!
Excellent video! I am considering purchase of a 29.5 foot aluminum boat with a cab for fishing. The big knock on aluminum is the how noisy it can be relative to water. The manufacturer is suggesting a expandable spray foam in the hull. I did some homework and found out that while spray foam is an excellent insulator it is a very poor sound dampener. Then I saw your video on car treatments with butyl matting stuck everywhere. Obviously I will get the same kind on results with a boat cab. I have several questions I am hoping you can answer. The boat has two big outboards so I cannot dampen the engine noise as I could if the engine was an inboard. But there are 3 areas I can work on. They include a) The roof of the cab b) The walls of the cab to some extent...alot of glass in this area c) The hull , in the front section where you can sleep and also in those areas you cannot see once the hull is fully manufactured The manufacturer contact cements the carpet in the sleep area and on the roof of the cab. I have two options here: a) The adhesive sheeting with the silver backing b) Lizard skin paint It seems to me the sheeting will do a better job of sound deadening but once applied can you glue carpet to the silver side of the sheets? If carpet could be contacted cemented to the silver skin do you think the weight of it, over time, would pull the sheeting off the cab ceiling? If not would you recommend the lizard skin paint application. Again I am wondering how well the carpet would stick to the paint. Some of the best potential for sound dampening could be on the dry side of the hull during the manufacturing process. I do not really know if parts of it will be wet. I have to learn more about their process. If it was you would you be considering the sheeting or the paint application in this area? BTW, does your sheet material have a adhesive back or is it "sticky" all by itself? Thanks for any insights you can offer. It is much appreciated :).
Thanks Shawn. This one may be best tackled over the phone. Please give us a call to discuss what products will work best in your scenario. 03 8777 0960
Did my 79 cruiser single cab work mate and what a difference it made , a lot of noise was cut from sound deadening the doors , I can actually hear the radio down low now
when covering the whole car with the butyl sound deadening will rust start between the layer of sound deadening butyl and sheet metal as this could potentially destroy a car over the years, im raprotr bed lining a vehicle, will then try the butyl sound deadening 4mm , the 6mm foam with sticky backing and the 13mm foam is one or the other supposed to be used or can both be used, do any of the material on either of these crumble with age
I am half way through putting the stage one Matt in my GLX troop carrier I took the four screws out of the rear speakers but can’t see what to do next . Seems to be two more screws running east west holding it to the door
I live in the USA and I have an old 1996 Chevrolet 3500 diesel truck. When I drive at highway speeds I can't hear myself think. One time I got a call and I couldn't even hear the person on the other end. I'm going to try that Decibel X and see what the noise rating is in my truck. It's probably 400
@@carbuilders1 When I buy a Troop Carrier, I will be sure to engage your services to achieve the same outcomes. Top job, great video, you guys really know what you are doing!
Completely wrong. 63db is NOT twice as loud as 60db. dB calculation is logarithmic and far more complicated than that. "Cut the volume by 2---two WHAT? You're not even defining your terms. You don't know what the hell you're talking about and your spreading incorrect information to other people.
How about spray on cork. It’s heat resistant, water resistant and it still breathes whilst giving excellent sound deadening. Is it possible to apply this spray on cork over your product inside the panels? Thus increasing the overall effectiveness.
Great video and impressive noise reduction. I will be doing the Troopy but I'd like to know about the roof, ie; is the roof a significant source of noise, is it worth doing and is it safe to take those cross braces out to make it easier to get the 'cardboard' liner out of the way? Cheers
Im surprised how much difference insulsting the roof made on my np300 a few weeks back. Whilst installing a roof rack , i wasnt gonna miss it so full dampning and dual layer foam. Cause this was the second time installing this roof rack( had a loose bolt squeaking and had to install plates under the rack to prevent flex) we had the opportunity to see the difference between no roof rack, roof rack no insulation, and roof rack insulation. The difference in no rack to insulation was amazing. No surprise the big wide skin a roof has with no strength in creases. Then the ladder noise and bad rack design noise was allso so much better. Just gotta do the rest of the car, cant believe they didnt even use anti chip spray under neath to help deaden noise, but i guess its only a work ute to most. Do you guys suggest and external acoustic material. I mean i did the deadner in my 280zx under neath and it worked well but the utes diesel and road noise its a bit high pitched to remove all that. I do wanna go full on lexus style maybe even carpet in the wheel wells to reduce noise
Hi Ryan Macklin. Loved hearing what you have done. Glad to hear the np300 is cruising along! With regards to the road facing solutions, we will have a video out soon that I think you are going to like. However, for a paint-on sound solution take a look at the Lizard Skin Sound Control. It is a US product and there is a lot of information online (put Lizard Skin Sound Control into RUclips).
Hi Rick. People do and customers request it with our installs. In our packs we try to limit the weight (and cost) for customers. This area is structurally rigid due to its shape therefore it has limited panel vibration and we focus more on the external noise entering by smoothering it with the mass noise liner. 👍
Great video and work, just wondering though we did a 1970's car and found the thickness of the glass on the car was a lot less than modern cars. It was suggested that there is a lot of sound transfer through glass and as such one of the reasons new cars have thicker glass is to reduce noise, what are your thoughts?
@3:56 do you sell this tool? What do you call this tool you have there, Living in northern part of Europe so maybe could order it somewhat nearby.. but reckon the freight from Aus isnt too bad 😀 cheers n thanks for informative vids👍
It is one of the tools from our Trim Removal Kits www.carbuilders.com.au/trim-install-kit Shoot us an email and we can work out the cost, including shipping, for you. Thank you for the feedback 👍
Hi Dimitris. Thank you for the feedback. We do put stage 1 in the roof. You're right, stage 2 foam would help, however, with the design of the Troopy headlining sheets, there isn't enough room to even fit our 6mm Insul Layer. If you aren't using the factory headerlining then you have options.
Thanks for the answer so I got a couple of questions. Will you ship it to the US and how much did you use of the Stage 1 Sound Dampening sheets. Since I would like to do the same job for my truck also covering the Roof. You do excellent job Buddy, congrats
👍Roberto. For quantities you should check out our Troopy vehicle packs which gives quantities for different options/coverage areas www.carbuilders.com.au/troopy-packs We do ship to US however it can be expensive due to weigh of deadener. If you email us with which Troopy pack you are interested in we can give you a quote for shipping. With a stronger US dollar against the AU dollar it does off set this
Sound dampening does just that. It's not a sound proofing material. Most of the noise in a vehicle comes from the tires and wind noise, then suspension, then interior rattles, etc. It's a Toyota. Toyota doesn't insulate it's vehicles like European/American auto makers. Take, for example, VW: There are rubber insulating layers between just about all metal-metal suspension attachments to lower noise + vibration. Also, felt is used in various places throughout the vehicles. The windows are special glass and the window lining in the door has a felt seal. The wheel liners are typically made of a composite felt material that can handle the elements. --My understanding is that all that work is just reducing the vibration. It's not sound proofing anything.
Hi RobHTech. You are right. We are limiting/reducing/dampening sound and heat. Wind noise, rubbers and glass are areas that are difficult to control, however significant db reductions can be made by treating panels, floorpans, firewalls etc. Rather than European, US or Japanese made vehicles, it often comes down to year of the vehicle and model eg 70 series Landcruiser verses a 200 series. Many older cars and 4WD and vans (including VW) have limited sound deadening materials. You were half right about the reduction (and this is a common misconception that many people have when tackling sound) Stage 1 stops panel vibration e.g. noise made by panels highlighted when driving on dirt roads or over rutted surfaces. However, stage 2 (which goes over the sound deadening and replaces cotton jute/shoddy) is applied to blanket out external noise e.g. droning rather than panel noise. Thank you for getting involved 👍
@@carbuilders1 Not sure that it is a misconception. I simplified the explanation. I went to VW tech training school almost 20 years ago, and VW was using such examples of reducing cabin noise, etc. even back then.
@@RobHTech Hi Rob, I was referring more generally about a misconception of a butyl based or stage 1 deadener. Some brands advertise this product as stopping all sound, however as you pointed out, it stops panel vibration. If you want to dampen an exhaust drone or external noise the butyl sheet is going to have limited success. You then need a mass loaded vinyl which I was referring to as Stage 2. This will smoother and reduce this noise source. 👍
Hi Carl. Thank you for your positive feedback 😎👍 We are currently looking at setting up some retailers in the US. Hopefully we're out there in the not-too-distant future.
41:18 - hey what sort of glue do you use for mass loaded vinyl please? And if you use this type of mass loaded vinyl, then there is no need for a closed cell foam, right? Thank you so much for this content!
Hi Millan. With the vinyl, we use our Spray Adhesive www.carbuilders.com.au/spray-adhesive. We use Mass Loaded Vinyl when there is limited packing space such as in the Defenders. Mass Noise Liner (which is the mass loaded vinyl with a closed cell backing) is preferred as the closed cell will inhibit heat transfer 👍
Hi Eric. So you applied stage 1 sound deadening sheets? Where did you use it e.g. walls, roof, roof etc? Did you lay any stage 2 mass loaded vinyl products over it?
@@carbuilders1 I applied stage 1 on roof, floor, door. Stage 2 on roof, front row floor and front roll door. Did not apply stage 2 on 2nd row door as it will be too heavy for sliding door. Also applied stage 1 and 2 on wheel arch. I am suspecting that tyre noise and wind noise becomes the dominant noise. The above set up did improve on lowering noise when travel at slow speed.
Jo... never do this with a 4x4 truck... The first instance of filth will leave you wishing you had used something easily washable... Bedliner is the only real way... Carpet and sound deadener holds moisture and creates rust... Carpet is for grannys house not a 4x4...
Hi Doe Benevrek. Yes, tyre noise is difficult. When the road is wet, the water spraying up the doors and down the floor pan etc gives you a visual of what sound waves from tyres are doing. Deadening over the arches stops vibration and noise from flying rocks etc. Stage 2 sound blankets then address the external noise created. We will have a video in the comes weeks/month where we add vinyls up in the wheel arches and use deadening painted in a combination to treat this problem. Regardless there will be a limit due to where the sound is travelling from this point. Door seals and window etc are always going to impact the success.
Great video mate! I want to do some sound deadening in my 110 Defender and was planning on using Dynamat, are you an Aussie company? Coz if so I'd be glad to support you, do you have any retailers in Sydney who can supply and install professionally? Although I wouldnt mind giving it a go myself as there are a lot more square edges and flat surfaces in a Defender!
Hi Mikhail. Yes, we are an Australian company and we would love to help you quieten down the Defender. We ship nationally and have a couple of retailers in Sydney (which you can find on our website). Please email us so we can provide an accurate update of our approved installers. 😎👍
Hi Roberto. We used two sheets of our Mass Noise Liner for the rear cargo area, which is 1.5 x 1m. www.carbuilders.com.au/mass-noise-liner and two sheets of Mass Noise Liner Lite for the front www.carbuilders.com.au/mass-noise-liner-lite 😎👍
Great video, great work, and great product. I wish i could get it but your website has limited shipping options. I live in saudi arabia and seek your help to get it. I have contacted your retailer in dubai but they charge double the price in your website. Can you help please
I have a Passat CC 2.0TDI with nearly 200k Km on the clock, engine started to be more noisier then other cars with the same engine but with less km, due to that i was started to thinking. To do some sound proofing but to do it correctly i have decided to first sort out the issues causing the more noise so car will be fully serviced and additives used i have found out that the LIQUI MOLY Cera Tec oil additive is decreasing the diesel noise about 5db! Thats a lot! Next I have done some research and its good to use some diesel additive like VIF, that will decrease the vibrations from the engine plus should keep it better running in a long run. Once this will be done I'm planning to add some sound proofing for the car - as its(at least for me) quite new car(2011) and there is not too much of a reason to take it whole apart i just want to isolate the basics. So what do you recommend to isolate? My original plan was to isolate the trunk, hood and doors and if there is any special isolation for the firewall and engine cover isolate that as well. I'm planning to do a series of videos on this with tests where i will measure the noise and vibration(yes modern phones can measure that as well) under different conditions after each modification leading it hopefully to much comfier and quieter car. Any suggestions welcome!
Good plan. If you can systematically track the sound then you will be able to deal with it more efficiently. Looking forward to seeing your videos. Happy sound hunting 👍
Hi Me Me. The stage 1 sound deadener will add weight as this weight is what stops the panel from being about to vibrate. In the Troopy, if you used 5 boxes to thoroughly cover the vehicle as shown in the video (including roof), this stage 1 will weigh 35kg (without roof, it is 21kg). If weight is a big issue, you could reduce the amount you use by further spreading out sheets. It will impact the result but will still reduce db. The stage 2 choice can make a significant difference in weight. The foam underlays are obviously very light (a couple of kgs). The mass loaded vinyl such as Mass Noise Liner is significantly heavier (around 18kg) but act as a far superior noise cancelling layer. Feel free to contact us to discuss further 03 8777 0960
Hi Bias B. We do install these products. If you would like to find other more information on this service, shoot us an email at sales@carbuilders.com.au 👍
Hi there. www.carbuilders.com.au/ If you are purchasing from overseas, please email us (sales@carbuilders.com.au) what products you are after and we can get you the price of the product and shipping 👍
😆they're pretty noisy prasad temkar. Yes, we have an authorised installer called Off Road Approved who specialise in 4x4 fit outs. They service south east Melbourne. Give Jonathan a call on 0437 007 879.
Bedline the truck... hose it out when muddy... indestructible... not gonna hold moisture either like this shit... Brother... Im a body tech of over 20 years and anytime ive seen this used improperly its costly headaches... rust from moisture... Rotted floors.... Bedliner sound deadens and can be hosed right out... get it muddy with no worries..
Hi Jmmothz Morga. Sorry it wasn't in this video as this was a customer's install and we had time constraints. You can see db testing in some other videos. You will find that the greatest db difference is when driven off road where there was a reduction of around 9-10db and on sealed roads it was around 3-4db (An increase of 3dB doubles the sound intensity but a 10dB increase is required before a sound is perceived to be twice as loud)
Pos that retails for over 100k. Theyre incredible vehicles mechanically but unfortunately are bare bones when it comes to luxury. They make the 200 series for that.
Not AUD$100K. A Troop Carrier GXL (comes with airconditioning and factory front and rear diff locks) is about $72K drive away Melbourne, VIC or Sydney, NSW, and probably $2K more in Perth, Western Australia.
@@tempestv8 72k doesn't include on road costs and most people delete the crappy suspension, get bullbars, upgraded gvm etc. They get pretty close to 100k, I dont know anyone thats taken one home for the 72k + onroad costs.
Hi Kana Kana. The cost of the Troopy packs is www.carbuilders.com.au/troopy-packs You can also navigate to individual items in the packs from that site. 😎👍
PHhh hahaha. What the hell is this? All that money and work to drop 5db, good lord. Well, the cost effectiveness might, probably, has something to do as to why Toyota didn't put all those materials in the vehicle. And, how is something 1.5 Xs quieter? Well, whatever. Good vid.
@@rhysbertrand8903 It can't be positively quieter is my point. There is no 1.5X quieter. It might be ...db quieter. It would be expressed as a negative, as the deadening/sound proofing is removing sound/noise, not adding it. That would be like the oxymoron of positively having -$50 in a bank account. ---It's the same trick that stores use to trick the dummies into "Saving more." There is no "Saving more" when you spend money to buy something. You might spend less, but surely not "Saving" anything. To save more, you simply spend less, i.e., restrict the outflow of your money, if you have any. I had to edit because I forgot to mention something. A volume control in an amp/head unit, etc. is essentially an attenuator--preventing the amplifier from going full power...it attenuates it via a potentiometer. A resistor resists the flow of current. A low value allows more to pass than a higher rated resistor. So high volume, or full power, is at the lowest resistance, while low volume is at highest resistance. Reducing the volume, thus, reduces the db by restricting power output. ---The volume control knob is not like a gas pedal, in that it doesn't go from 0 -100, even though Americans like to think so. It actually goes from -db to 0, 0 being ground on the potentiometer. That's why the speakers must be matched to an amp because if the amp produces way too much power, even the volume control could not be enough to restrict power output, leading to the speakers being overpowered, even with the gain turned all the way down. In this case, even a low volume level would lead to high output to the speakers and would thus be not so pleasant to use. ---A car/truck is similar. It has a certain db at idle, cruising, etc. To make the vehicle quieter, we must lower the db, i.e., lower the noise floor of the vehicle. ---For example, I took my '03 Rav4 and sound insulated it. By doing so, I reduced the noise floor by -9db. At idle, it went from 78db to 69db. Therefore, it is -9db quieter. And, I did so for just over $100 USD.
@@RobHTech lol youre being "that guy" just for the sake of it. You know that he means the sound difference is perceived as half. And yeh they got more noise from the roof rack. So remove that from the equation they mightve had 7 or 8 db difference. Half of what you wrote is irrelevant crap so I won't bother addressing it. Matter of fact is. You know what he means. You're just being a dick for the sake of it.
Ridiculous... bedline it ffs... it can be washed out afterward... Carpet is for grannys 1970 house... All this shit is gonna do is hold moisture and rot this truck to shit...
To avoid trapping moisture within a door or panel when you add a second vapor barrier (The first vapor barrier is always the exterior sheet metal.) be sure to allow some way for the space between the vapor barriers to vent so that the cavity can dry out. Without some kind of ventilation, condensation has nowhere to go.
Thank you Terry. Yes, it is important to be mindful of vents designed in doors for condensation/water egress. Covering the outer skin and inner door card won't make the door air tight and will still allow for the escape of trapped condensation.
There have been a few comments on this thread about using a bedliner and its benefits. It all comes down to what you are trying to achieve. If you just want a bash-around truck then they are right. However, if you go touring or are driving the truck on the road, then comfort may be important to you (and your grandma if your taking her back to the nursing home😉). Bedliner doesn't solve any sound or heat issues. Rather, if you are fairly hardcore 4x4ing and are regularly swamping it so you want a hose down finish, you can still treat acoustic and/or thermal issues with a paint by using Lizard Skin Sound Control or Lizard Skin Ceramic (paint). Still, the treatment shown above has taken water exposure into account. As you can see from other videos we have made, the Sound Deadener butyl mats create a water proof barrier preventing water getting between the panel and the mats. The Mass Load Vinyl mats are closed cell foam (water proof, doesn't absorb water) with the vinyl backing so they don't hold water and can also be removed if you have sunk the truck. Also, unlike the factory cotton jute underlay that the troopy's currently run, you will solve the problem of mould and potential rust.
Car Builders - Thermal & Acoustic insulation materials a
This is one of the best sound deadening videos I've seen on the tube. Great job and very informative. Cheers!
Wow, thanks!
Extremely informative video on the benefits of sound proofing almost any vehicle, especially new vehicles, to increase the perceived quality and value of the vehicle. 1.5 to 2 times sound quietening is an amazing improvement for a few hours of DIY work in a driveway. I'll definitely consider this option when buying my next vehicle.
Great video! Keep up the good work with your channel!
Thank you for the positive feedback diggleboy 😎👍
Quality product. Did my LC76 with your sound deadener and mass noise liner. Used a lot more sound deadener than that and did the inner skins of the doors too (maybe excessive?). Wife approved modification..
😆Wife approved is important 😎👍
Hey Roger, I have an LC76 and am curious as to how much of a difference it makes. What do you think? Big difference?
@@adamg9430 we used to have to yell at each other to have a conversation when hwy driving now we don't. The audio quality is also massively improved. Maybe more noticeable that the noise reduction.. guess they go hand in hand. It's definitely worthwhile.
@@rogercole9942 Awesome. Thanks for the feedback. I guess I'll have to hit the boys up when they re-open on the 8th of Jan. We're heading from Melbourne to Perth and back in May, and I don't think the wife and kids fancy donning noise cancelling headphones, even though that prospect seems more than appealing to me! ;)
that was a lot of work. good craftsmanship and experience!
Thanks 👍
Good vid! I think a few squares on the inside of the trim panels would probably help too...they are basically drums in the back of the vehicle.
😎👍
would haved loved to have seen the roof done in the video also. thanks for posting this!
Sorry mate. I dont think we did the roof in that install. Here is where we did a Troopy roof ruclips.net/video/_I1ixYbfHWY/видео.html
Looking forward to the painstaking task of doing this to my 2013 TT FJ CRUISER. Thanks to a few hours of watching your videos I now know the hardest part will be removing and reinstalling all the interior and headliner! I will def give you a shout out on my instagrams and Facebook when done. If you can leave that info here in a reply I’ll make sure to give you the credit needed! I have ordered NOICO 80mil and 315mil insulation foam for the ceiling and your video was awesome on the TROOPY ROOF. I have a minor stereo setup just 4 front and 1 12” in the rear in the custom box with a 500watt amp lifted just in case I decide to get it wet down the road.
NOW TO THE QUESTIONS:
(Keep in mind I would like to return my amazon orders and order your product if that works out even tho I live in Las Vegas NV.)
What do you suggest I use to make it a smooth install but not to go to OVERBOARD.
I was thinking about just using 315mil closed cell on top of the 80mil butyl for roof, and all 3 sides. But I’m not sure what to do with the floor because my FJ is equipped with a snorkel & with all rubber mats & waterproof seats but the carpet below the rubber mats I’m going to remove *if it gets wet it will mold)
Notes: It’s more of a daily driver now, with it becoming more of a toy in the future. The DB inside is pretty low already being a 2013, but I would love the option to get it wet and not have to worry about issues in the future. I am coming from driving Mercedes so I like the quite too. (Will make sure to take special care of you once Vegas recovers too)
Brian T. Vegas Promoter/Host ♦️♠️♥️♣️ All Vegas Nightclubs_ Stripclubs, Limos, Hotels + “LIKE” My Instagram: @BrianTvegas & @Babyota_ #885/2500 2013 TT FJ Cruiser EMAIL: BrianTvegas@gmail.com CELL: 1-408-896-5160
"Hello, this is Chef John from food wishes dot com"
😆
To avoid trapping moisture within a door or panel when you add a second vapor barrier (The first vapor barrier is always the exterior sheet metal.) be sure to allow some way for the space between the vapor barriers to vent so that the cavity can dry out. Without some kind of ventilation, condensation has nowhere to go.
Thank you Terry. Yes, it is important to be mindful of vents designed in doors for condensation/water egress. Covering the outer skin and inner door card won't make the door air tight and will still allow for the escape of trapped condensation.
Great video. Closing the driver door with the deadening is fantastic compared to the biscuit tin lid from the factory.
Thanks Rob!
Rob vH
Whenever you gain access to a door cavity, clean the drain channel and drain holes. Also clean and lube anything that moves. Also lube the hinges and latch mechanism. This is especially important for the driver’s door, because it’s used the most.
Mercedes used to have workers attach dense pads in body cavities on the exterior sheet metal to prevent drumming. Now, robots squirt surprisingly small amounts of a dense caulking-like material in strategic locations to accomplish the same result.
Wish you guys were in the US, I've never been that interested in premium cars but after putting AT tires on my Subaru I'm really want to get this done.
Thanks Taylor. Hopefully we are there in the not too distant future. 👍
Great video mate, very well done. Ill be doing my 80 series next but this video gave me a really good idea of what to expect. Thanks!
Thank you for the positive feedback! Good luck with your project 👍
What's the measurement for 80series land cruiser or how many rolls do I need?
Damn it, I wish I thought of doing a dB test before I installed my silent coat!
Very nice product and information mate.
Thanks 👍
The BIGGEST difference in the solidity of the “door shutting sound” is achieved NOT from increasing the weight of the door but the QUALITY of door sealing (the rubber door seal).
Adding additional rubber door seals to each door is the most cost effective method to most easily create the most solid and tight “door shutting sound” WITHOUT increasing weight of the door.
On any Japanese and Korean road cars, this would instantly produce a noticeable reduction in road noise, engine noise and exterior traffic noises from entering the cabin.
And,how do you do that?
As soon as you said Datsun I left a like 😂 nice videos fellas
😎👍
Jake Thomas Garner we are up and running again. The last upload was missing the crucial last 5 minutes. Enjoy
Awesome video! Customers are going to be really happy with the troopy kit.
A 5dB drop is impressive for sure.
Thank you Cameron 👍
Great video, very informative. Thank you
I have some genuine questions :
1) In the pursuit of insulation for very cold weather, Would it not be possible to line the rear cargo cards with one or both forms of insulation ? Would they carry the weight ?
2) Is there any reason why you wouldn't lay the silver first barrier insulation on the floors of the troop carrier before installing the foam backed material ?
3) I assume you would advise adding the first and second layers in the roof ceiling too to aid in sound and weather insulation ?
4) What would be your recommendation with covering over the rear windows with insulation to prevent heat loss ? Temporary silver foil such as windscreen sun reflector material ?
NB : I am intending to add a diesel heater for quite cold conditions in northern hemisphere.
General Comment : Putting the the first and second layers in the front doors would strengthen it. I live on an outback sheep and cattle station and we hit roos all the time. 2 things happen - roos jump straight into the side of the door and the other thing is that they hit the bullbar and spin around which dents the door. This is 90% of 70 series panel damage in the bush. Having both layers would stop damage in many cases I am sure.
Your company seems very professional. Thank you.
Thank you Ade.
We will ensure that we cover these questions in upcoming videos. However, to briefly address your questions.
1. If you are trying to insulation against extreme weather (rather than targeting sound) we would insulate the floor as we would the walls and roof. Firstly, put down one of our closed cell foams to slow down heat transfer and to act as a condensation barrier. We would then create an air gap with the structure of the floor framing. On this framing we would then blanket off the whole area with our Van Seal. The closed off air gap from the floor pan means that the Van Seal acts effectively as a non-emitter or reflector of heat but the air gap also prevents the conducting of heat out of the internal space. These products are light unlike the Mass Noise Liner which is targeting blanketing sound and it is a much heavier product.
2. We try to minimise the amount people need to purchase as well as limiting additional weight by identifying optimal areas for the sound deadening. The rear cargo has a structured design and doesn't vibrate to the level of the flat panels found in other areas. However, people do cover this area.
3.Yes. Our two stages target both aspects in the roof. Unfortunately Troopcarriers' factory roof lining only allows for one of these products. Many of our customers are trying to reduce sound so we have the sound deadening sheets in the roof.
4. Yes, the windows are a significant factor in heat transfer so some window blankets are very effective.
Good luck with your project!
@@carbuilders1 Thank you. most helpful, cheers :-)
Excellent video! I am considering purchase of a 29.5 foot aluminum boat with a cab for fishing. The big knock on aluminum is the how noisy it can be relative to water. The manufacturer is suggesting a expandable spray foam in the hull. I did some homework and found out that while spray foam is an excellent insulator it is a very poor sound dampener. Then I saw your video on car treatments with butyl matting stuck everywhere. Obviously I will get the same kind on results with a boat cab. I have several questions I am hoping you can answer. The boat has two big outboards so I cannot dampen the engine noise as I could if the engine was an inboard. But there are 3 areas I can work on. They include
a) The roof of the cab
b) The walls of the cab to some extent...alot of glass in this area
c) The hull , in the front section where you can sleep and also in those areas you cannot see once the hull is fully manufactured
The manufacturer contact cements the carpet in the sleep area and on the roof of the cab. I have two options here:
a) The adhesive sheeting with the silver backing
b) Lizard skin paint
It seems to me the sheeting will do a better job of sound deadening but once applied can you glue carpet to the silver side of the sheets? If carpet could be contacted cemented to the silver skin do you think the weight of it, over time, would pull the sheeting off the cab ceiling? If not would you recommend the lizard skin paint application. Again I am wondering how well the carpet would stick to the paint.
Some of the best potential for sound dampening could be on the dry side of the hull during the manufacturing process. I do not really know if parts of it will be wet. I have to learn more about their process. If it was you would you be considering the sheeting or the paint application in this area?
BTW, does your sheet material have a adhesive back or is it "sticky" all by itself?
Thanks for any insights you can offer. It is much appreciated :).
Thanks Shawn. This one may be best tackled over the phone. Please give us a call to discuss what products will work best in your scenario. 03 8777 0960
Did my 79 cruiser single cab work mate and what a difference it made , a lot of noise was cut from sound deadening the doors , I can actually hear the radio down low now
EXCELLENT presentation!! Bravo,,
Thank you Deigo!
Wow best deadening video I've ever watched!!!!
How many sheet do I need for my Suzuki Swift 2020? Roof and 5 doors only.
Thanks kmh 👍 If you put a sheet and a half in each door, you would get away with a box.
when covering the whole car with the butyl sound deadening will rust start between the layer of sound deadening butyl and sheet metal as this could potentially destroy a car over the years, im raprotr bed lining a vehicle, will then try the butyl sound deadening 4mm , the 6mm foam with sticky backing and the 13mm foam is one or the other supposed to be used or can both be used, do any of the material on either of these crumble with age
I am half way through putting the stage one Matt in my GLX troop carrier I took the four screws out of the rear speakers but can’t see what to do next . Seems to be two more screws running east west holding it to the door
I live in the USA and I have an old 1996 Chevrolet 3500 diesel truck. When I drive at highway speeds I can't hear myself think. One time I got a call and I couldn't even hear the person on the other end. I'm going to try that Decibel X and see what the noise rating is in my truck. It's probably 400
Haha.. yes, painful. These sort of trucks see significant improvement with the additional deadening treatment.
Great Video! Liked and Subscribed. Where about's are you based in Australia? Do you only sell DIY kits or do you also install in the shop?
Thank you 👍Yes, we also do installs in our Melbourne warehouse. Please call us to discuss 03 8777 0960
@@carbuilders1 When I buy a Troop Carrier, I will be sure to engage your services to achieve the same outcomes. Top job, great video, you guys really know what you are doing!
The sound level is multiplied by two every 3dB.
You remove 3 dB you cut the volume by 2.
Completely wrong. 63db is NOT twice as loud as 60db.
dB calculation is logarithmic and far more complicated than that. "Cut the volume by 2---two WHAT? You're not even defining your terms. You don't know what the hell you're talking about and your spreading incorrect information to other people.
a very good job well done. I have a van and i would like to use those materials. but how much money do they cost and what are the names of materials?
Hi Erjon. You can find all the information on these products on our website www.carbuilders.com.au/interior/ 😎👍
How about spray on cork. It’s heat resistant, water resistant and it still breathes whilst giving excellent sound deadening.
Is it possible to apply this spray on cork over your product inside the panels? Thus increasing the overall effectiveness.
That wheel arch has the same dent as my 1986 troopy 😳 I always thought it got damaged 😂
😆👍 Fuel filler neck
Car Builders - Thermal & Acoustic insulation materials I know 😂 I’m a dumb ass.
Haha
Lol
Great video and impressive noise reduction. I will be doing the Troopy but I'd like to know about the roof, ie; is the roof a significant source of noise, is it worth doing and is it safe to take those cross braces out to make it easier to get the 'cardboard' liner out of the way?
Cheers
Hi Roger. Have you seen this video? ruclips.net/video/_I1ixYbfHWY/видео.html 👍
Im surprised how much difference insulsting the roof made on my np300 a few weeks back.
Whilst installing a roof rack , i wasnt gonna miss it so full dampning and dual layer foam.
Cause this was the second time installing this roof rack( had a loose bolt squeaking and had to install plates under the rack to prevent flex) we had the opportunity to see the difference between no roof rack, roof rack no insulation, and roof rack insulation.
The difference in no rack to insulation was amazing. No surprise the big wide skin a roof has with no strength in creases. Then the ladder noise and bad rack design noise was allso so much better.
Just gotta do the rest of the car, cant believe they didnt even use anti chip spray under neath to help deaden noise, but i guess its only a work ute to most.
Do you guys suggest and external acoustic material.
I mean i did the deadner in my 280zx under neath and it worked well but the utes diesel and road noise its a bit high pitched to remove all that.
I do wanna go full on lexus style maybe even carpet in the wheel wells to reduce noise
Hi Ryan Macklin. Loved hearing what you have done. Glad to hear the np300 is cruising along! With regards to the road facing solutions, we will have a video out soon that I think you are going to like. However, for a paint-on sound solution take a look at the Lizard Skin Sound Control. It is a US product and there is a lot of information online (put Lizard Skin Sound Control into RUclips).
Do we really require so much of butyl sheet or patches work the same?
Toyota land Cruiser 70(71, 76,78,79) series heavy-duty the best of the best 4×4☝️👍👍👍👍👍💪💪💪💪💪I❤️you CAR, 🎥👍👍👍👍👋👋👋👋😁
😆👍
@@carbuilders1 Dankeschön 🤝🤝🤝🤝👌
Why didn’t you use the sound deadening material in the cargo area like you did up toward the firewall and under the seating area?
Hi Rick. People do and customers request it with our installs. In our packs we try to limit the weight (and cost) for customers. This area is structurally rigid due to its shape therefore it has limited panel vibration and we focus more on the external noise entering by smoothering it with the mass noise liner. 👍
Nice job. Vehicles are much quieter at night though. Test it during the day and you’ll probably gain 2dBs.
Thank you Jerry
This claim is both complete bullshit with zero science behind it.
What?
Great video and work, just wondering though we did a 1970's car and found the thickness of the glass on the car was a lot less than modern cars. It was suggested that there is a lot of sound transfer through glass and as such one of the reasons new cars have thicker glass is to reduce noise, what are your thoughts?
@3:56 do you sell this tool? What do you call this tool you have there, Living in northern part of Europe so maybe could order it somewhat nearby.. but reckon the freight from Aus isnt too bad 😀 cheers n thanks for informative vids👍
It is one of the tools from our Trim Removal Kits www.carbuilders.com.au/trim-install-kit Shoot us an email and we can work out the cost, including shipping, for you. Thank you for the feedback 👍
Find any carpenters in your area.
They should be able to do this with ease.
Great work !!! I wonder about the roof though - or more precisely underneath the roof. Wouldn't some sound insulation help there?
Hi Dimitris. Thank you for the feedback. We do put stage 1 in the roof. You're right, stage 2 foam would help, however, with the design of the Troopy headlining sheets, there isn't enough room to even fit our 6mm Insul Layer. If you aren't using the factory headerlining then you have options.
Car Builders - Thermal & Acoustic insulation materials tnx
Thanks for the answer so I got a couple of questions. Will you ship it to the US and how much did you use of the Stage 1 Sound Dampening sheets. Since I would like to do the same job for my truck also covering the Roof. You do excellent job Buddy, congrats
👍Roberto. For quantities you should check out our Troopy vehicle packs
which gives quantities for different options/coverage areas www.carbuilders.com.au/troopy-packs We do ship to US however it can be expensive due to weigh of deadener. If you email us with which Troopy pack you are interested in we can give you a quote for shipping. With a stronger US dollar against the AU dollar it does off set this
Sound dampening does just that. It's not a sound proofing material. Most of the noise in a vehicle comes from the tires and wind noise, then suspension, then interior rattles, etc. It's a Toyota. Toyota doesn't insulate it's vehicles like European/American auto makers. Take, for example, VW: There are rubber insulating layers between just about all metal-metal suspension attachments to lower noise + vibration. Also, felt is used in various places throughout the vehicles. The windows are special glass and the window lining in the door has a felt seal. The wheel liners are typically made of a composite felt material that can handle the elements.
--My understanding is that all that work is just reducing the vibration. It's not sound proofing anything.
Hi RobHTech. You are right. We are limiting/reducing/dampening sound and heat. Wind noise, rubbers and glass are areas that are difficult to control, however significant db reductions can be made by treating panels, floorpans, firewalls etc. Rather than European, US or Japanese made vehicles, it often comes down to year of the vehicle and model eg 70 series Landcruiser verses a 200 series. Many older cars and 4WD and vans (including VW) have limited sound deadening materials. You were half right about the reduction (and this is a common misconception that many people have when tackling sound) Stage 1 stops panel vibration e.g. noise made by panels highlighted when driving on dirt roads or over rutted surfaces. However, stage 2 (which goes over the sound deadening and replaces cotton jute/shoddy) is applied to blanket out external noise e.g. droning rather than panel noise. Thank you for getting involved 👍
@@carbuilders1 Not sure that it is a misconception. I simplified the explanation. I went to VW tech training school almost 20 years ago, and VW was using such examples of reducing cabin noise, etc. even back then.
@@RobHTech Hi Rob, I was referring more generally about a misconception of a butyl based or stage 1 deadener. Some brands advertise this product as stopping all sound, however as you pointed out, it stops panel vibration. If you want to dampen an exhaust drone or external noise the butyl sheet is going to have limited success. You then need a mass loaded vinyl which I was referring to as Stage 2. This will smoother and reduce this noise source. 👍
Do you have a product provider here in California, USA? LOVE your expertise.
Hi Carl. Thank you for your positive feedback 😎👍 We are currently looking at setting up some retailers in the US. Hopefully we're out there in the not-too-distant future.
41:18 - hey what sort of glue do you use for mass loaded vinyl please? And if you use this type of mass loaded vinyl, then there is no need for a closed cell foam, right? Thank you so much for this content!
Hi Millan. With the vinyl, we use our Spray Adhesive www.carbuilders.com.au/spray-adhesive. We use Mass Loaded Vinyl when there is limited packing space such as in the Defenders. Mass Noise Liner (which is the mass loaded vinyl with a closed cell backing) is preferred as the closed cell will inhibit heat transfer 👍
That door panel is not MDF, it's Masonite. It's much more dense than MDF and made with fibers instead of basically dust.
Thank you csorrows. Both of these products need to be protected from water 👍unfortunately we find most after market door panels are made out of MDF
Hi, i have a minivan and did a full interior sound deadening. But the sound level still remains high. Any other methods to reduce noise?
Hi Eric. So you applied stage 1 sound deadening sheets? Where did you use it e.g. walls, roof, roof etc? Did you lay any stage 2 mass loaded vinyl products over it?
@@carbuilders1
I applied stage 1 on roof, floor, door. Stage 2 on roof, front row floor and front roll door.
Did not apply stage 2 on 2nd row door as it will be too heavy for sliding door.
Also applied stage 1 and 2 on wheel arch.
I am suspecting that tyre noise and wind noise becomes the dominant noise.
The above set up did improve on lowering noise when travel at slow speed.
@@carbuilders1 by the way, i learnt a lot from your youtube channel. Thanks.
Thanks. And which stage 2 product did you use? Was it a foam or a vinyl?
@@carbuilders1 I am using a foam type. call dr artex vibrobarrier 7+.
Do you sell this product in India? Or ship if I'm ready to pay for shipment?
Hi Jude. Please email sales@carbuilders.com.au with your address details and we can get a quote organised for you 👍
what's brand name of rear cargo sound deadener? Many tks.
👏👏
😎👍
How much weight does this add to the vehicle?
Hi tosgem. Our Premium Pack, including the roof, is a bit under 50kg
Just curious to know. How much weight did you add to the vehicle? Thanks
Hi fausto80. Our Premium Pack, including the roof, is a bit under 50kg. The basic pack will add under 25kg.
Great video mate! Don’t suppose you are going to do a 80 series land cruiser next?
What does something like this cost?
Thank you Joe Fussy. The 80 Series will be very similar. Check out our kits at www.carbuilders.com.au
Jo... never do this with a 4x4 truck...
The first instance of filth will leave you wishing you had used something easily washable...
Bedliner is the only real way...
Carpet and sound deadener holds moisture and creates rust...
Carpet is for grannys house not a 4x4...
what about applying insulation just behind the wheels in inner part most of noise i hear in my Audi is coming from tyres
Hi Doe Benevrek. Yes, tyre noise is difficult. When the road is wet, the water spraying up the doors and down the floor pan etc gives you a visual of what sound waves from tyres are doing. Deadening over the arches stops vibration and noise from flying rocks etc. Stage 2 sound blankets then address the external noise created. We will have a video in the comes weeks/month where we add vinyls up in the wheel arches and use deadening painted in a combination to treat this problem. Regardless there will be a limit due to where the sound is travelling from this point. Door seals and window etc are always going to impact the success.
What is the total weight of this solution for the Troopy? Thanks
Hi N Noddy. We have a couple of Troopy packs ranging from about 23kg to the premium shown here which is the heaviest at just over 50kg.
Great video mate!
I want to do some sound deadening in my 110 Defender and was planning on using Dynamat, are you an Aussie company? Coz if so I'd be glad to support you, do you have any retailers in Sydney who can supply and install professionally?
Although I wouldnt mind giving it a go myself as there are a lot more square edges and flat surfaces in a Defender!
Hi Mikhail. Yes, we are an Australian company and we would love to help you quieten down the Defender. We ship nationally and have a couple of retailers in Sydney (which you can find on our website). Please email us so we can provide an accurate update of our approved installers. 😎👍
Hi. Excellent video please could you tell how much material in length you use for the same truck
Hi Roberto. We used two sheets of our Mass Noise Liner for the rear cargo area, which is 1.5 x 1m. www.carbuilders.com.au/mass-noise-liner and two sheets of Mass Noise Liner Lite for the front www.carbuilders.com.au/mass-noise-liner-lite 😎👍
Great video, great work, and great product. I wish i could get it but your website has limited shipping options. I live in saudi arabia and seek your help to get it. I have contacted your retailer in dubai but they charge double the price in your website. Can you help please
Hi Fahad. To update you, we will be looking to announce a retailer in Saudi Arabia shortly.
Car Builders - Thermal & Acoustic insulation materials looking forward
I have a Passat CC 2.0TDI with nearly 200k Km on the clock, engine started to be more noisier then other cars with the same engine but with less km, due to that i was started to thinking. To do some sound proofing but to do it correctly i have decided to first sort out the issues causing the more noise so car will be fully serviced and additives used i have found out that the LIQUI MOLY Cera Tec oil additive is decreasing the diesel noise about 5db! Thats a lot! Next I have done some research and its good to use some diesel additive like VIF, that will decrease the vibrations from the engine plus should keep it better running in a long run.
Once this will be done I'm planning to add some sound proofing for the car - as its(at least for me) quite new car(2011) and there is not too much of a reason to take it whole apart i just want to isolate the basics. So what do you recommend to isolate?
My original plan was to isolate the trunk, hood and doors and if there is any special isolation for the firewall and engine cover isolate that as well.
I'm planning to do a series of videos on this with tests where i will measure the noise and vibration(yes modern phones can measure that as well) under different conditions after each modification leading it hopefully to much comfier and quieter car.
Any suggestions welcome!
Good plan. If you can systematically track the sound then you will be able to deal with it more efficiently. Looking forward to seeing your videos. Happy sound hunting 👍
Does this stuff add a
Lot of weight?
Hi Me Me. The stage 1 sound deadener will add weight as this weight is what stops the panel from being about to vibrate. In the Troopy, if you used 5 boxes to thoroughly cover the vehicle as shown in the video (including roof), this stage 1 will weigh 35kg (without roof, it is 21kg). If weight is a big issue, you could reduce the amount you use by further spreading out sheets. It will impact the result but will still reduce db. The stage 2 choice can make a significant difference in weight. The foam underlays are obviously very light (a couple of kgs). The mass loaded vinyl such as Mass Noise Liner is significantly heavier (around 18kg) but act as a far superior noise cancelling layer. Feel free to contact us to discuss further 03 8777 0960
Do you guys offer supply and installation services or just supply ?
Hi Bias B. We do install these products. If you would like to find other more information on this service, shoot us an email at sales@carbuilders.com.au 👍
How much weight did all that sound proofing material add to the car?
Hi Aves. This pack would weigh around 40kg with roughly half the weight in sound deadening sheets and the other half in the mass loaded vinyl.
In Australia, a truck is a vehicle over 4.5 tonne.
How can I get this pro ..?
What is the link of this production
Hi there. www.carbuilders.com.au/ If you are purchasing from overseas, please email us (sales@carbuilders.com.au) what products you are after and we can get you the price of the product and shipping 👍
Hey mate, have u got a dealer in melbournewho actually does the whole job like this ? Am a defender owner and trust me I could benefit wit this :)
😆they're pretty noisy prasad temkar. Yes, we have an authorised installer called Off Road Approved who specialise in 4x4 fit outs. They service south east Melbourne. Give Jonathan a call on 0437 007 879.
Legend!! Thanks mate :)
Bedline the truck... hose it out when muddy... indestructible... not gonna hold moisture either like this shit...
Brother...
Im a body tech of over 20 years and anytime ive seen this used improperly its costly headaches... rust from moisture...
Rotted floors....
Bedliner sound deadens and can be hosed right out... get it muddy with no worries..
So the 2nd item at 19:46 is the sound barrier floor mat according to your website.
Hi Jason. Yes, that's right www.carbuilders.com.au/mass-noise-liner-floormat
Ei men you didnt try road test after the set up of soun deadeders
Hi Jmmothz Morga. Sorry it wasn't in this video as this was a customer's install and we had time constraints. You can see db testing in some other videos. You will find that the greatest db difference is when driven off road where there was a reduction of around 9-10db and on sealed roads it was around 3-4db (An increase of 3dB doubles the sound intensity but a 10dB increase is required before a sound is perceived to be twice as loud)
What gear shifter is in your Troopy?
You can’t but appreciate the attention to detail.How much would this cost in this vehicle.
Thank you Garry. We have this Troopy pack online here www.carbuilders.com.au/troopy-packs 👍
List of products you used?
Hi James. We used our Troopy pack for this install. You can find the pack and materials here www.carbuilders.com.au/troopy-packs 👍
So,how much of a POS was the truck?? No factory insulation at all?!
They are a bullet proof vehicle but it does surprise that these new 4WDs still have very little to no sound dampening installation.
Pos that retails for over 100k. Theyre incredible vehicles mechanically but unfortunately are bare bones when it comes to luxury. They make the 200 series for that.
Not AUD$100K. A Troop Carrier GXL (comes with airconditioning and factory front and rear diff locks) is about $72K drive away Melbourne, VIC or Sydney, NSW, and probably $2K more in Perth, Western Australia.
@@tempestv8 72k doesn't include on road costs and most people delete the crappy suspension, get bullbars, upgraded gvm etc. They get pretty close to 100k, I dont know anyone thats taken one home for the 72k + onroad costs.
Was all set to place an order and I discovered you don’t ship to the US
Now you know how us Aussies feel! 😂
@@edinread, was just about to write the same mate haha
@@arturkoziara4453 Good on ya mate. Stay safe, hey.
What model is this?
what does this material cost?
Hi Kana Kana. The cost of the Troopy packs is www.carbuilders.com.au/troopy-packs You can also navigate to individual items in the packs from that site. 😎👍
Where can I buy?
Hi Barrington Blake. All of these products are available on www.carbuilders.com.au/
What do you guys do about wind noise? And noise transmitted thru the windows?
Good rubbers will reduce sound leaking through gaps.
PHhh hahaha. What the hell is this? All that money and work to drop 5db, good lord. Well, the cost effectiveness might, probably, has something to do as to why Toyota didn't put all those materials in the vehicle. And, how is something 1.5 Xs quieter?
Well, whatever. Good vid.
Thank you Yabo.. i think 😆
Because half the db doesn't mean half the noise.... its an exponential scale.
@@rhysbertrand8903 It can't be positively quieter is my point. There is no 1.5X quieter. It might be ...db quieter. It would be expressed as a negative, as the deadening/sound proofing is removing sound/noise, not adding it. That would be like the oxymoron of positively having -$50 in a bank account.
---It's the same trick that stores use to trick the dummies into "Saving more." There is no "Saving more" when you spend money to buy something. You might spend less, but surely not "Saving" anything. To save more, you simply spend less, i.e., restrict the outflow of your money, if you have any.
I had to edit because I forgot to mention something. A volume control in an amp/head unit, etc. is essentially an attenuator--preventing the amplifier from going full power...it attenuates it via a potentiometer. A resistor resists the flow of current. A low value allows more to pass than a higher rated resistor. So high volume, or full power, is at the lowest resistance, while low volume is at highest resistance. Reducing the volume, thus, reduces the db by restricting power output.
---The volume control knob is not like a gas pedal, in that it doesn't go from 0 -100, even though Americans like to think so. It actually goes from -db to 0, 0 being ground on the potentiometer. That's why the speakers must be matched to an amp because if the amp produces way too much power, even the volume control could not be enough to restrict power output, leading to the speakers being overpowered, even with the gain turned all the way down. In this case, even a low volume level would lead to high output to the speakers and would thus be not so pleasant to use.
---A car/truck is similar. It has a certain db at idle, cruising, etc. To make the vehicle quieter, we must lower the db, i.e., lower the noise floor of the vehicle.
---For example, I took my '03 Rav4 and sound insulated it. By doing so, I reduced the noise floor by -9db. At idle, it went from 78db to 69db. Therefore, it is -9db quieter. And, I did so for just over $100 USD.
@@RobHTech lol youre being "that guy" just for the sake of it. You know that he means the sound difference is perceived as half. And yeh they got more noise from the roof rack. So remove that from the equation they mightve had 7 or 8 db difference. Half of what you wrote is irrelevant crap so I won't bother addressing it. Matter of fact is. You know what he means. You're just being a dick for the sake of it.
@@rhysbertrand8903 Ya. That's called ad hominem. Nice try.
Brah. A lil lengthy vid. Heads up.
Cheers for the feedback. We try to make this DIY friendly. Hope you were able to fast forward and get something out of it. 👍
Every 3db is double the energy/ sound..
that car didnt see dust, and your talking about water? :D
Its brand new it has not gone anywhere yet!!
Could it get more professional 👍👍👍
Thanks mate 🤙
somali national movement 1983 first cut of lancruiser used to Tekniko who product Engineer guutaale led by official snm Tekniko
Must have been the same Ar$* hole that installed my audio system
I see it as epic fail .
The sound must be blocked with open cell material plus and focusing on the wheel arches.
Good work better luck next time
Ridiculous... bedline it ffs... it can be washed out afterward...
Carpet is for grannys 1970 house...
All this shit is gonna do is hold moisture and rot this truck to shit...
To avoid trapping moisture within a door or panel when you add a second vapor barrier (The first vapor barrier is always the exterior sheet metal.) be sure to allow some way for the space between the vapor barriers to vent so that the cavity can dry out. Without some kind of ventilation, condensation has nowhere to go.
Thank you Terry. Yes, it is important to be mindful of vents designed in doors for condensation/water egress. Covering the outer skin and inner door card won't make the door air tight and will still allow for the escape of trapped condensation.