You perfectly showed with the cymbal, that a small patch on a large surface area is enough to stop waves in a material aka sound. So there is absolutely no need to cover your whole floor with sound deadening material....!
Hi PJ. You're right. Moderate amounts of deadener make a significant difference. Once the middle of a panel has been covered, the additional deadener covering the panel has diminshing results. Auto manufacturer's will engineer sound proofing to a dollar point, researching the optimal positioning for deadening to just meet consumer expectations. Vibration dampening mats are most effective on single skin metallic surfaces. It is unnecessary to apply deadener to over-lapped metal sections, top hat, chassis sections etc as these areas don't resonant. To engineer a car it takes some skill and technical analysis to pin point key areas, in reality most people will cover everything as they don't mind spending a bit more to ensure they have achieved the desired results. With paying customers, most people want everything covered. Keep in mind that this is one stage in controlling sound in your vehicle. 😎👍
@@carbuilders1 Is it possible to take aftermarket double glazed side windows from more expensive vehicles and cutting them to fit in cheaper cars (like the VW golf for instance).
Love the fact that you put t on the cymbal as an example. A few of us did this to the underside of them in our music class at school, needless to say, the band were rather concerned before they looked underneath
Very well stated and presented. Most newer vehicles do not have an issue with the single most annoying source of noise in a vehicle, engine noise coming from sheetmetal openings. If you are doing an older vehicle blocking airborne noise can be tricky but the tiniest of holes will tank an otherwise good installation of sound deadening material.
What an EXCELLENT description of the different types of materials. This helps me out a ton as I'm working on dealing with some resonance in my MX-5 this week. Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
Same, I am here to learn and work on sound and heatproffing better my MX-5. Trying to do it with the least weight adding possible with the biggest return on sound and heat proofing
@@Moriggia Hi. Good and you? I haven't done this. It requires quite some free time that I don't have yet, or at least not desiring to spend it on my Miata. I have a few other things to install it plus repairing a scooter and I have had 0 rush on doing any of that. I work remotely and have been using my car only about one day a week in the past 10 mo. But if I happen to do this, changing the tube from the intake before the separator seems to help with engine noise (not removing the duct for the noise but changing the big section for a different material that is harder and transmits less outside undesired noise), plus sound proofing maybe mainly on top of the back wheels is something I will definitely do, just not sure when. I would like to heat proof the doors and the whole cabin wherever possible but I haven't found what to use that isn't heavy, is durable, not that costly, and is not a disaster/big problem to install as the weather in south FL is definitely one to consider. I installed window tinting in the front windshield, the clearest one one found and a good quality one $150 in Miami, and it made a big difference in temperature and glare (more comfortable driving) and no issues driving at night. Also, no issues with police as it doesn't even appear it has window tint in the windshield. My favorite simple mod so far.
Its not that easy. You would have to average HUNDREDS of miles over the same roads in the same conditions (traffic/temps/weather/etc) and then do it again with the treatments in place. I know. I've tried. Ive also tested vibration damping products in a controlled envinronment. While I dont agree 100% with everything here, this is one of the most accurate descriptions on youtube on how to fully treat a vehicle.
People have done it. Insulation, depending on the vehicle, is good for between 5-20dB of sound reduction. Really dependent on vehicle and how much you use.
@@gymkhanadog Taking short measurements before and after are misleading. Too many variables. Just a difference in temp changes air density and therefore noise levels.
@@chrispurdue5762 I'm not looking to argue, but saying that subjective testing, even short term, is worthless is also misleading... We aren't talking about putting a used vehicle in an anechoic and doing before and after measurements. That would actually be good science. We're talking about subjective testing in the real world. Which is why I said 5-20, which is a pretty big sound range. The difference of 5 dB could mean damaged hearing or just a very uncomfortably loud sound. Remember, sound is measured in a base 10 log unit. Factor of 10 to make it easier.
@@gymkhanadog I can agree with most of that. I simply feel its important to make sure people understand that these tests need to be done in as controlled of a manor as possible before making claims. Having worked on objectively testing vehicle sound treatments for the last 8 years, ive fought for the entire time to discredit claims that products such as peel n seal are equivalent to products like Dynamat based on other peoples subjective "knock" tests, etc.
I lined the interior walls and door of my clothes dryer while I was replacing the blower/fan. Now it's better than any dryer I've ever used! Did the same thing on a noisy steel drafting table too.
@@willfinney6598 Thanks! Similarly, I filled my 3-ton floor jack handle with spray foam. No more clanky handle!😀 AH... and maybe I'll put some sound deadening on my 4-way lug wrench... Just though of that!
Not a bad time to replace the bearing axle for the dryer drum while it's all apart. No more squeaking! Much easier to do than the blower in my opinion. (if your blower wheel is stuck on)
Great video explaining the basics! My first car that I put sound deadener in was a 99 grandam gt 2 door. 100% coverage. It dropped decibels readings up to 15db. It was a massive improvement to the cabin quality. I spent a lot of money on it too, but it was worth it cause I had the car 10 years. Now the cars I buy don't really need it to be honest. If I were to spend that amount of money again on material the diminished returns wouldn't justify the cost. My Acura TL is already quiet for the type of driving I do now. Plus I spend good money on tires and it shows. Finding a quality tire made a world difference in the cabin.
I've watched this and truly appreciate the explanation. I will order from them, they have earned my business and I had a helpful email as well. Nice, quality people
I appreciate how you showed the dampening on the cymbal. Also, about how a sound curtain behind seats is enough, instead of everywhere. That was a great video, very clear and easy to see how it all works together. Thanks.
I was a courier and once had to deliver bank bags that were vinyl and cloth in a Sentra. I had 300 pounds of sound deadening for a half hour - it was amazingly quiet, then back to "noisy". Try it yourself : pack your floorboards and trunk with towels and clothes about a foot deep and go for a ride.
Hi Peter. The effect was two-fold. You stopped vibration in the panels by adding weight and you also created a sound blanket for externally generated noise. 👍
Also very reasonable prices and finally some mass loaded vinyl carpet underlay replacements you guys really have covered all areas of Sound treatment and turning a tin can into a luxury feeling vehicle super impressed I see a comment from five years ago well bugger me no one told me lol although I did find some cool stuff at Jaycar that was also reasonably price and came in rolls like a poster which is far better than saying stinger roadkill sound treatment in a flat box where it's all stuck together. Wish I had known about this ages ago lol
I've met Aussies here in the USA. It's kind of like meeting cousins, especially if they're from the rural parts. You guys are big on self-reliance, you got killer critters (I wish we had Kangaroos!), and like US you got started by running afoul of the English authorities!
When going over bumps there is more resonating thump from the back, will soundproofing the trunk and spare tire space help reduce that noise that sounds like bass speaker.
You should consider providing links to where we can purchase the product and set it up as an affiliate so You get a little kick back for the referral. Great info, I had no idea there is even this many options.
Concrete works best hehe.... I like your two layer foam and mass loaded vinyl. Using all three..deadener, foam and vinyl makes a big difference especially in boot floor and under rear seat.
I'm using Butyl + Sound Bar(MLV) + Felt ..each for different purpose, Butyl to reduce vibrations, Sound Bar to block the sound and Felt to absorb sound :D
EvroNetwork That is the way to go. I dynamatted a car and was dissapointed in the results so I used foam as well...and it still wasnt good enough...only when I added Mass loaded Vinyl did I finally get a quiet car..I was driving over 1000kms per week on rough asphalt...you know when your car is well sound proofed when you hear that Ssshhhh sound at high speed....
Great video mate, just wanted to clarify if improved stereo sound is covered in general sound deadening or would you look at something specific for that purpose?
Hi Steve. All of this sound deadening is going to stop speaker panel vibration and improve stereo quality. Car audio guys will skin both the outer and inner doors if there are speakers in them to avoid the rear sound waves cancelling out with the front sound waves. It will also make the door act as a speaker enclosure, maximising sound pressure 👍
@@carbuilders1 hello, what about speaker installations in the footwell? Would the material get installed behind them? I am thinking of noise that may come from the front wheel wells. At some point, I am going to get a pair of speakers, that are built into a custom enclosure requiring no alteration to the interior panels. A small subwoofer will go under the carpeted panel behind the two bucket seats. I have other questions and will connect later. Thanks
Hi Tonnie. We aren't currently in that part of the world, we have been delayed by covid but hopefully in Europe next year. We do ship from Australia. If you want to email sales@carbuilders.com.au what you are after with all of your shipping details we can send you a quote.
When I close my driver's door, strangely, sounds like a hollow tin can, but the other doors sound fine when I close it. I seriously need to add this to my car, sometimes its small things like this that make me feel my car is complete if that makes sense. The noisiest thing in my car is the engine, even with new engine mounts, I hope when I buy this I will get a huge noise level improvement, and the insulation as an added bonus.
Nice explaining then i was outside took my interior apart and now need a big welder some metal then sound deadning lol thats how it is to have an old jeep cherokee from 95
Hi Travis. If heat is the greater issue, you can use heat shields or peel and stick peel shields to dramatically reduce heat within the car with very little additional weight.
that cymbal demonstration shows really well how little of the vibration deadener you need for vibrations. now i assume you still want good coverage for stuff like blocking your exhaust because even though its vibration deadener it is also a sound deadener with butyl rubber
@@cameronbeyer7687 try having a helmholtz resonator installed to cut back on drone, and not sure what summer tires comes stock in your area but replacing them will also cut back on road noise.
@@boldstar69 I actually have 4 resonators haha, but Dunlops come stock. Nah I'll take the added noise for improved handling. I currently have blizzaks on for the winter, and holy road noise that's fucking insane haha
Thank you Florin. The weight really depends on where you are going to cover and what stage 2 product (foam or vinyl weigh significantly different). The Sound Deadener is 6.5kg per box and you need two for the floor, one box for the doors and less than one for the roof. It would need two boxes of Acoustic Liner as underlay, it weighs less than 4kg in total. If you wanted the premium underlay (Mass Noise Liner Lite), you would also need two sheets and they weigh 7kg each. The second stage on the room is Insul layer and this is a foam (1.5kg). Feel free to contact us (03 8777 0960) to chat further about your install 👍
@@carbuilders1 I'm actually serious lol. I think it's usually classified as sound absorbing cotton that is to be applied inside pillars and inside door assemblies
Great stuff Trying to design insulation to suit a 25 yr old Civic track car that I still want insulated well enough to take the missus for a fast, not so noisy/drone weekend blast. Should I just give you a call? (I’m in Oz)
you probably won't see this but I am planning on reducing the car and street noise in my '95 Miatas cabin. I was wondering how much sound deadening you would recommend, since the car is relatively light and I wanna keep it that way, so the premium 2nd stage material is out of question. Should i just cover the entire floor with the first two materials?
I liked the mention of running the MLV/CCF treatment on the rear seat backs since that was the method I plan to do in my car, to save weight and material. However, I was wondering, with a subwoofer in the trunk would this affect the low frequency bass coming into the cabin? I have 1 10" subwoofer in an Integra, aimed at the rear glass, and the removeable rear deck shelf will likely not be treated. If no one has an answer for me, I'll try out both ways in the coming week starting with treating the seat backs and follow up if I remember! My main goal is to kill road noise, something the Integra is plagued by being a cheaper 90's vehicle.
Hi Tom, if you had a sedan with a closed off trunk/boot and you lined the back of the back seat with MLV it would reduce the amount of bass coming through to the cabin. Because you have a hatch, the bass will be reflecting off the back window/hatch and going back to the cabin. Your removable parcel shelf panel will be the largest factor that will be blocking the bass from coming through. If you want to reduce road noise we would recommend applying MLV or Insulayer to your trunk floor, wheel arches and trunk side walls. 👍
Hey Rockin Sergio. Yes, it is important to inspect and treat rust before applying to panels. Once the sound deadening is laid they create a water proof barrier and protection from rust.
Been looking everywhere for a video like this. Would you say that (other than doors) most of the sound comes from the roof or the floors? Don't think I have the budget for all 4 doors, trunk, and floor + roof, so i'll probably have to choose between one of the latter two.
No, good question. The butyl facing the metal on the stage 1 sound deadening mats is water proof. We have a video where we pour liquid into a pocket of sound deadener to illustrate this. This type of material is used in plumbing applications to create water proof seals. It is important that you rust-treat the surface before applying the mats and that you roll the mats down without leaving air pockets. The sound deadener will act as a rust barrier. Around the mats you may still want to treat the metal with an anti-rust wax. Please free to call us to discuss further 03 8777 0960 👍
What would be the best product for noise reduction front my transmission? I need to put something under the boot of my shift stick. Mass noise reduction liner + something else maybe?
Hi Doobiez. The mass loaded vinyl range is best. The next thing to work out is how much tolerance or space you have under the factory carpet or vinyl. You may only be able to use a 2mm mass loaded vinyl or the thicker (8mm or 13mm) versions that have a closed cell backing foam www.carbuilders.com.au/interior/mass-loaded-vinyl/ 👍
Does your foam product have a mold inhibitor like some of your competitors? I don't see that listed on the website. It's nice that there's a closed-cell topper, but unless you intend to blanket your entire vehicle and seal every little seam and joint, moisture will still get down into the open-cell underlayment and mold. It may not rot the material like jute, but it will mold. What happens if you have a leak inside the vehicle? What happens if you spill a realistic amount of drink, as in, an entire cup of it (12-24oz)? It's going to soak through your carpet and the first seam in the insulation it it finds it's going to seep down through capillary action. Just because it isn't jute doesn't mean it can't or won't mold. This is still a very real concern for modern insulation.
Hi gymkhanadog. If moisture and mould is a concern/issue, we advise underlay's that are totally closed cell such as www.carbuilders.com.au/water-proof-carpet-underlay-stage-2~728
They look like great products! Can you get the 1st. (rubber) layer off if you choose to later? Also, is there ever a chance of water getting under it and eventually rusting the metal under it? Just making sure because I would be putting this on my 34 year old Dodge D150 truck with only 26 thousand original miles on it. It's like new so I am extremely careful what I do to it. The reason for my concern is the aftermarket rustproofing that is installed the most in the northern part of the country is a "rubberized" coating that is sprayed into the doors and the undercarriage and in time it pulls back enough to let in water and salt and the moisture stays there and just rots everything right through! I have seen frames of new trucks so rotten after less than 10 years old because of this issue that they are totalled!
Hi thoms_here I understand your concern. Yes, you can remove the butyl rubber once applied. It takes some elbow grease but can be done. We replace it once a year in our demonstration half car that we take to shows (to freshen up the display as it get constantly touched and rubbed). Unlike the old bitumen deadener, which would crack and allow moisture underneath it butyl doesn't harden and actually becomes tackier in warmer weather. Butyl is used in plumbing applications and you can see in another video we did that it creates a water proof barrier even when in a vertical application. ruclips.net/video/tNnmyFO8lcw/видео.html Good luck with the Dodge, sound like a nice ride 😎👍
I second that one, especially when the jute or crap the big 3 put in your new cars are just rust attracters soaking up wetness so as to make sure your investment is dead at 10 years old.
I've got Vauxhall/Opel Mokka (Buick Encore). I get that cost/weight cutting made this car an empty tin with thin metal all-around. Do you think that a few patches of this rubber sheet would help with overall road noise (and vibration throughout the thin sheets of steel around)?
Hi Mieczyslaw. Yes, you will achieve results by adding Stage 1 pads to single sheet metal panels and the Stage 2 Foams or Mass Loaded Vinyls will act to reduce external road noise. Good luck
Hello. I'd like to use the black sound deadener directly above and around my mufflers under the car, to reduce the noise entering in the boot. I understand this is an internal liner, but is it possible to use externally?
Hi Duane. As you have stated, this product is designed for interior use and we would recommend using it on the inside rather than outside. An issue underneath the car might also be the surface being dirty and greasy. If you are able to clean the exterior surface thoroughly (test with masking tape once clean- if that sticks and deadener will) then it can be placed in the area.
Hi Kool Range. The Sound Deadener? The butyl will get tackier in extreme temps. It won't peel off but in vertical positions such as door skins we like border it with our aluminium foil tape to ensure their is no chance of slip. www.carbuilders.com.au/aluminium-foil-tape
Curious to hear how crucial the added Stage 2 foam layers are to reducing road noise? I’m in the process of applying the stage 1 butyl and now a bit concerned that I’ll have to also buy and install some MLV or something of that nature to reap the full benefits of it?
Hi Bhagwan. Cotton can't replace dampening sheet as a Stage 1 product as the deadener is designed to connect directly to the sheet metal and control structure born and panel resonance. Stage 2 is addressing noise by filtering, something to consider is packaging in this stage.
You perfectly showed with the cymbal, that a small patch on a large surface area is enough to stop waves in a material aka sound. So there is absolutely no need to cover your whole floor with sound deadening material....!
Hi PJ. You're right. Moderate amounts of deadener make a significant difference. Once the middle of a panel has been covered, the additional deadener covering the panel has diminshing results. Auto manufacturer's will engineer sound proofing to a dollar point, researching the optimal positioning for deadening to just meet consumer expectations. Vibration dampening mats are most effective on single skin metallic surfaces. It is unnecessary to apply deadener to over-lapped metal sections, top hat, chassis sections etc as these areas don't resonant. To engineer a car it takes some skill and technical analysis to pin point key areas, in reality most people will cover everything as they don't mind spending a bit more to ensure they have achieved the desired results. With paying customers, most people want everything covered. Keep in mind that this is one stage in controlling sound in your vehicle. 😎👍
@@carbuilders1 And if you want better insulation as well as sound deadening (like me), then covering everything makes more sense, right? 🤔
@@carbuilders1 Is it possible to take aftermarket double glazed side windows from more expensive vehicles and cutting them to fit in cheaper cars (like the VW golf for instance).
@@BoMwarriorVlogI found it cheaper to use minimal sound deadening sheets and then a roll of 6mm dodo insulation.
@@g0rdyb1ker Thank you!! 😃 Is "Dodo insulation" a specific brand?
Love the fact that you put t on the cymbal as an example. A few of us did this to the underside of them in our music class at school, needless to say, the band were rather concerned before they looked underneath
😆👍
Glad people are making videos explaining this. It's so annoying when I'm looking for sound insulation and everyone just shows me butyl deadener lol
Thanks mate. Yes, that is just one component. Good luck with your project.
Very well stated and presented. Most newer vehicles do not have an issue with the single most annoying source of noise in a vehicle, engine noise coming from sheetmetal openings. If you are doing an older vehicle blocking airborne noise can be tricky but the tiniest of holes will tank an otherwise good installation of sound deadening material.
Great explanation. Teaching and sharing information (not emotions) was what the internet was originally created for.
Thank you for the feedback 😎👍
Not really. but ok?
I thought after porn went from beta-max, VHS, DVD, that the internet was the next medium for porn.
@Captain Buff The Third Sorry dude, but those feelings are nonsense. Logic, reason and understanding are the real answers.
@Captain Buff The Third You're not understanding. Logic, reason and basic events are all that need to be communicated. Beyond that is manipulation.
What an EXCELLENT description of the different types of materials. This helps me out a ton as I'm working on dealing with some resonance in my MX-5 this week.
Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
Bedline it inner floor and bottom...
Stone chip proof and its sealed from elements... loose the carpet... is the car a house from 1970?
@@octaneartllc If you don't have carpet, what would you have instead?
Same, I am here to learn and work on sound and heatproffing better my MX-5. Trying to do it with the least weight adding possible with the biggest return on sound and heat proofing
@@89andresp how is going? How much weight did you add? Is it worth? Thank you 😁
@@Moriggia Hi. Good and you? I haven't done this. It requires quite some free time that I don't have yet, or at least not desiring to spend it on my Miata. I have a few other things to install it plus repairing a scooter and I have had 0 rush on doing any of that. I work remotely and have been using my car only about one day a week in the past 10 mo. But if I happen to do this, changing the tube from the intake before the separator seems to help with engine noise (not removing the duct for the noise but changing the big section for a different material that is harder and transmits less outside undesired noise), plus sound proofing maybe mainly on top of the back wheels is something I will definitely do, just not sure when. I would like to heat proof the doors and the whole cabin wherever possible but I haven't found what to use that isn't heavy, is durable, not that costly, and is not a disaster/big problem to install as the weather in south FL is definitely one to consider. I installed window tinting in the front windshield, the clearest one one found and a good quality one $150 in Miami, and it made a big difference in temperature and glare (more comfortable driving) and no issues driving at night. Also, no issues with police as it doesn't even appear it has window tint in the windshield. My favorite simple mod so far.
Don't forget to check and change door seals on older cars. That includes window seals
are you jonny sins
Asking the real questions xD
😂
The guy with very many careers professionally 😂😂😂
Lmaooooooooooooo
😂😂😂
I never knew Johnny Sins has an automotive sound fetish
That man is truly an inspiration to everyone. A firefighter, doctor, mechanic and a severe cancer survivor on top of that.
Thank you so much. What a great introduction! Now, to pick my deadener...
Thank you Haylee 😎👍
Wow. I was pretty skeptical of not needing 100% coverage, but I'm a believer after watching this.
How about just driving the car and taking decibel measurements before and after applying the insulation material?
Its not that easy. You would have to average HUNDREDS of miles over the same roads in the same conditions (traffic/temps/weather/etc) and then do it again with the treatments in place. I know. I've tried. Ive also tested vibration damping products in a controlled envinronment. While I dont agree 100% with everything here, this is one of the most accurate descriptions on youtube on how to fully treat a vehicle.
People have done it. Insulation, depending on the vehicle, is good for between 5-20dB of sound reduction. Really dependent on vehicle and how much you use.
@@gymkhanadog Taking short measurements before and after are misleading. Too many variables. Just a difference in temp changes air density and therefore noise levels.
@@chrispurdue5762 I'm not looking to argue, but saying that subjective testing, even short term, is worthless is also misleading... We aren't talking about putting a used vehicle in an anechoic and doing before and after measurements. That would actually be good science. We're talking about subjective testing in the real world. Which is why I said 5-20, which is a pretty big sound range. The difference of 5 dB could mean damaged hearing or just a very uncomfortably loud sound. Remember, sound is measured in a base 10 log unit. Factor of 10 to make it easier.
@@gymkhanadog I can agree with most of that. I simply feel its important to make sure people understand that these tests need to be done in as controlled of a manor as possible before making claims. Having worked on objectively testing vehicle sound treatments for the last 8 years, ive fought for the entire time to discredit claims that products such as peel n seal are equivalent to products like Dynamat based on other peoples subjective "knock" tests, etc.
I lined the interior walls and door of my clothes dryer while I was replacing the blower/fan. Now it's better than any dryer I've ever used! Did the same thing on a noisy steel drafting table too.
😆 nice work 👍
That is genius!
@@willfinney6598 Thanks! Similarly, I filled my 3-ton floor jack handle with spray foam. No more clanky handle!😀 AH... and maybe I'll put some sound deadening on my 4-way lug wrench... Just though of that!
Not a bad time to replace the bearing axle for the dryer drum while it's all apart. No more squeaking! Much easier to do than the blower in my opinion. (if your blower wheel is stuck on)
Great video explaining the basics!
My first car that I put sound deadener in was a 99 grandam gt 2 door. 100% coverage. It dropped decibels readings up to 15db. It was a massive improvement to the cabin quality. I spent a lot of money on it too, but it was worth it cause I had the car 10 years. Now the cars I buy don't really need it to be honest. If I were to spend that amount of money again on material the diminished returns wouldn't justify the cost. My Acura TL is already quiet for the type of driving I do now. Plus I spend good money on tires and it shows. Finding a quality tire made a world difference in the cabin.
yes tyres do matters.. specially youkohama advan db
The problem is good tyres especially Performance tyres are loud.
Great demo on the cymbal! That stuff is the real deal.
I've watched this and truly appreciate the explanation. I will order from them, they have earned my business and I had a helpful email as well. Nice, quality people
Thank you so much! Good luck with the install 👍
I appreciate how you showed the dampening on the cymbal. Also, about how a sound curtain behind seats is enough, instead of everywhere. That was a great video, very clear and easy to see how it all works together. Thanks.
Thank you for the positive feedback 🤙
This was very informative for my research for my Nova. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback Autofaze 👍
I was a courier and once had to deliver bank bags that were vinyl and cloth in a Sentra. I had 300 pounds of sound deadening for a half hour - it was amazingly quiet, then back to "noisy".
Try it yourself : pack your floorboards and trunk with towels and clothes about a foot deep and go for a ride.
Hi Peter. The effect was two-fold. You stopped vibration in the panels by adding weight and you also created a sound blanket for externally generated noise. 👍
lookin for a video like this for a long time especially on what to do to get rid of heat comin into the car
Hi firefox01 Glad that you have found the information you have been looking for here 😎👍
Thanks for posting. Effective and descriptive
So useful I watched it twice. Thanks!
Best video on the subject. Thank you very much.
Thank you Hung Pham 😎👍
I use 10mm cork pannel on my van... works ok, great for sleeping inside
A great video! What about a video on common areas to insulate. Spare wheel wheels, under seats, wheel arches etc etc?
Great video, just what I was looking for.
Thanks DJ. Good luck with your project.
Also very reasonable prices and finally some mass loaded vinyl carpet underlay replacements you guys really have covered all areas of Sound treatment and turning a tin can into a luxury feeling vehicle super impressed I see a comment from five years ago well bugger me no one told me lol although I did find some cool stuff at Jaycar that was also reasonably price and came in rolls like a poster which is far better than saying stinger roadkill sound treatment in a flat box where it's all stuck together. Wish I had known about this ages ago lol
Using the symbol as a demo is brilliant
I've met Aussies here in the USA. It's kind of like meeting cousins, especially if they're from the rural parts.
You guys are big on self-reliance, you got killer critters (I wish we had Kangaroos!), and like US you got started by running afoul of the English authorities!
😆🤙
Fantastic information. Really well explained
Thanks for the feedback Paul 👍
thanks for the clear straightforward information.
You're welcome!
Glad to see you're not covering every damn inch which is unnecessary. I swear videos that are made showing that are just so more product can be sold.
You're right.
Brilliant explanation of the importance of understanding the science of insulation and moisture
Ideal products for campervan conversation
Thank you for the positive feedback Mohammed 👍
When going over bumps there is more resonating thump from the back, will soundproofing the trunk and spare tire space help reduce that noise that sounds like bass speaker.
Very good explanation!
Thank you Norbert!
Thanks. I enjoyed this video and learnt something.
Glad to hear it! 👍
OMG so glad I found you guys!! You have a new subscriber! :D
Welcome aboard!
Great presentation, thank you the help. 5.9 Cummins with 5 inch exhaust, lot of noise and heat. This helped me alot.
Thanks for the feedback Kody and good luck with the project.
@@carbuilders1 thank you!
You should consider providing links to where we can purchase the product and set it up as an affiliate so You get a little kick back for the referral. Great info, I had no idea there is even this many options.
Thanks Alex 👍
Great informative video - thanks for taking the time!
Thank you Peter. Much appreciated 👍
Great video, very thorough explanations and very knowledgeable
Thank you Barbara 😎👍
Concrete works best hehe.... I like your two layer foam and mass loaded vinyl. Using all three..deadener, foam and vinyl makes a big difference especially in boot floor and under rear seat.
I'm using Butyl + Sound Bar(MLV) + Felt ..each for different purpose, Butyl to reduce vibrations, Sound Bar to block the sound and Felt to absorb sound :D
EvroNetwork That is the way to go. I dynamatted a car and was dissapointed in the results so I used foam as well...and it still wasnt good enough...only when I added Mass loaded Vinyl did I finally get a quiet car..I was driving over 1000kms per week on rough asphalt...you know when your car is well sound proofed when you hear that Ssshhhh sound at high speed....
Nice overview, thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching! 🤙
Great explanation man. I Will do this way in my Xterra. Greetings from Brazil!
Thank you! Good luck with your project 😎🤙
Dooood thanks! 🙏 blessing for the information.
Thank you for breaking this down to make sense to me. Excellent review...
Thank you John 👍Good luck with your project.
Great explanation.. love from india! Thank you🙏
Glad it was helpful!
that cymbal trick btw, you will get similar effect with any random blanket
Very good explanation 👍
Should have a link to your shop mate
Thanks mate. I will add.www.carbuilders.com.au/
Great straight forward explanation ,, ! Thanxs central Florida.....
Thank you Jim 😎👍
Great video mate, just wanted to clarify if improved stereo sound is covered in general sound deadening or would you look at something specific for that purpose?
Hi Steve. All of this sound deadening is going to stop speaker panel vibration and improve stereo quality. Car audio guys will skin both the outer and inner doors if there are speakers in them to avoid the rear sound waves cancelling out with the front sound waves. It will also make the door act as a speaker enclosure, maximising sound pressure 👍
@@carbuilders1 hello, what about speaker installations in the footwell? Would the material get installed behind them? I am thinking of noise that may come from the front wheel wells. At some point, I am going to get a pair of speakers, that are built into a custom enclosure requiring no alteration to the interior panels. A small subwoofer will go under the carpeted panel behind the two bucket seats. I have other questions and will connect later. Thanks
Thanks mate. You just saved me a lot of research 👍
Thank you for the positive feedback MegaSkyline69 😎👍
Nicely explained 👍
Hello, great explenation. Sorry mayby the question is asked already. But how or were can i buy these products in my country Holland?
Hi Tonnie. We aren't currently in that part of the world, we have been delayed by covid but hopefully in Europe next year. We do ship from Australia. If you want to email sales@carbuilders.com.au what you are after with all of your shipping details we can send you a quote.
When I close my driver's door, strangely, sounds like a hollow tin can, but the other doors sound fine when I close it. I seriously need to add this to my car, sometimes its small things like this that make me feel my car is complete if that makes sense.
The noisiest thing in my car is the engine, even with new engine mounts, I hope when I buy this I will get a huge noise level improvement, and the insulation as an added bonus.
Nice explaining then i was outside took my interior apart and now need a big welder some metal then sound deadning lol thats how it is to have an old jeep cherokee from 95
Wish you would link some of those products.
Sorry, we need to start adding this to our videos. You can find these products at www.carbuilders.com.au 👍
This is so cool thank
You👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Glad you got something out of it 😎👍
I'm redoing a NA Miata. Heat and sound deadening is a must. Hopefully it won't add to much weight.
Hi Travis. If heat is the greater issue, you can use heat shields or peel and stick peel shields to dramatically reduce heat within the car with very little additional weight.
@@carbuilders1 nice thanks
Thanks for a clear explanation of the different materials / applications!
Thank you for the positive feedback Michael 👍
that cymbal demonstration shows really well how little of the vibration deadener you need for vibrations. now i assume you still want good coverage for stuff like blocking your exhaust because even though its vibration deadener it is also a sound deadener with butyl rubber
Very helpful! Thank you
Thank you Matt. Glad it was helpful.
yes question.. where's the link to buy this stuff?
Sorry, we are starting to put links in now. You can find all these products on www.carbuilders.com.au 🤙
Sooooo if I want to reduce exhaust drone and road noise I want.....?
Cameron Beyer a better exhaust setup and better tires?
@@boldstar69 2019 WRX with the stock summer sport compound tires and a fill turbo back
@@cameronbeyer7687 try having a helmholtz resonator installed to cut back on drone, and not sure what summer tires comes stock in your area but replacing them will also cut back on road noise.
@@boldstar69 I actually have 4 resonators haha, but Dunlops come stock. Nah I'll take the added noise for improved handling. I currently have blizzaks on for the winter, and holy road noise that's fucking insane haha
Very informative! How much weight is added for a 4 door sedan?
Thank you Florin. The weight really depends on where you are going to cover and what stage 2 product (foam or vinyl weigh significantly different). The Sound Deadener is 6.5kg per box and you need two for the floor, one box for the doors and less than one for the roof. It would need two boxes of Acoustic Liner as underlay, it weighs less than 4kg in total. If you wanted the premium underlay (Mass Noise Liner Lite), you would also need two sheets and they weigh 7kg each. The second stage on the room is Insul layer and this is a foam (1.5kg). Feel free to contact us (03 8777 0960) to chat further about your install 👍
Nice Love from PUNJAB...
Thank you 👍
If a small section kills the resonance noise, could you just put small sections throughout and then use foam for outside noise?
Great video, very informative. I need to find one this like this in English.
Thanks Luke
“Cotton-jute carpet underlay” I had to turn captions on to figure that one out, lol
😆
Great video.
It would be great if you link the product names ?
Thank you for the feedback. We need to do this 👍All the products can be found here www.carbuilders.com.au/interior/
What about cotton sheets?
😆
@@carbuilders1 I'm actually serious lol. I think it's usually classified as sound absorbing cotton that is to be applied inside pillars and inside door assemblies
Great stuff
Trying to design insulation to suit a 25 yr old Civic track car that I still want insulated well enough to take the missus for a fast, not so noisy/drone weekend blast.
Should I just give you a call? (I’m in Oz)
Hi mate. Yes, definitely give us a call (03 8777 0960) and we can provide some detailed advice on the Civic.👍
You guys should do one specifically for the Tesla Model 3. Everyone is complaining about the noise. You'd do really well.
😆
Hi thete,
I can not see the "premium carpet underlay" that you presentind as third product on this video , in your website.....
you probably won't see this but I am planning on reducing the car and street noise in my '95 Miatas cabin. I was wondering how much sound deadening you would recommend, since the car is relatively light and I wanna keep it that way, so the premium 2nd stage material is out of question. Should i just cover the entire floor with the first two materials?
I liked the mention of running the MLV/CCF treatment on the rear seat backs since that was the method I plan to do in my car, to save weight and material. However, I was wondering, with a subwoofer in the trunk would this affect the low frequency bass coming into the cabin? I have 1 10" subwoofer in an Integra, aimed at the rear glass, and the removeable rear deck shelf will likely not be treated. If no one has an answer for me, I'll try out both ways in the coming week starting with treating the seat backs and follow up if I remember! My main goal is to kill road noise, something the Integra is plagued by being a cheaper 90's vehicle.
Hi Tom, if you had a sedan with a closed off trunk/boot and you lined the back of the back seat with MLV it would reduce the amount of bass coming through to the cabin. Because you have a hatch, the bass will be reflecting off the back window/hatch and going back to the cabin. Your removable parcel shelf panel will be the largest factor that will be blocking the bass from coming through. If you want to reduce road noise we would recommend applying MLV or Insulayer to your trunk floor, wheel arches and trunk side walls. 👍
And how do you take it off? For rust inspection etc...?
Hey Rockin Sergio. Yes, it is important to inspect and treat rust before applying to panels. Once the sound deadening is laid they create a water proof barrier and protection from rust.
@@carbuilders1 and how do you take it of when or if needed?
Great clarification video！
Thank you for your positive feedback Jiateng Wang
Nice video friend.
Thank you Albert 👍
Been looking everywhere for a video like this.
Would you say that (other than doors) most of the sound comes from the roof or the floors? Don't think I have the budget for all 4 doors, trunk, and floor + roof, so i'll probably have to choose between one of the latter two.
Hi there. What are you putting it in? Give us a call and we can advise on it 👍03 8777 0960
@@carbuilders1
I'm putting it in a honda accord 2018.
I'm not sure if I'd be able to buy your product so i didn't want to waste your time haha
fascinating, but how do you do this effectively on your car that is already assembled?
example the 2023 KIA NERO ev:
Any danger of moisture getting trapped when placing the materials down? Or am I overthinking it?...
No, good question. The butyl facing the metal on the stage 1 sound deadening mats is water proof. We have a video where we pour liquid into a pocket of sound deadener to illustrate this. This type of material is used in plumbing applications to create water proof seals. It is important that you rust-treat the surface before applying the mats and that you roll the mats down without leaving air pockets. The sound deadener will act as a rust barrier. Around the mats you may still want to treat the metal with an anti-rust wax. Please free to call us to discuss further 03 8777 0960 👍
Thats just how aussies speak, i used to live there for a few years, you dont get used to it.
😆
Totally used to it .. easy as. But hey, I’m an Aussie !
What would you use for a dash that rattles on bumpy roads? The most distracting noise in my car seems to come from the glove box door rattling.
I used Weather Strip window seal on my car for that. Seems to work well. Just run it along the few key areas to reduce vibration.
What would be the best product for noise reduction front my transmission? I need to put something under the boot of my shift stick. Mass noise reduction liner + something else maybe?
Hi Doobiez. The mass loaded vinyl range is best. The next thing to work out is how much tolerance or space you have under the factory carpet or vinyl. You may only be able to use a 2mm mass loaded vinyl or the thicker (8mm or 13mm) versions that have a closed cell backing foam www.carbuilders.com.au/interior/mass-loaded-vinyl/ 👍
Does your foam product have a mold inhibitor like some of your competitors? I don't see that listed on the website. It's nice that there's a closed-cell topper, but unless you intend to blanket your entire vehicle and seal every little seam and joint, moisture will still get down into the open-cell underlayment and mold. It may not rot the material like jute, but it will mold. What happens if you have a leak inside the vehicle? What happens if you spill a realistic amount of drink, as in, an entire cup of it (12-24oz)? It's going to soak through your carpet and the first seam in the insulation it it finds it's going to seep down through capillary action. Just because it isn't jute doesn't mean it can't or won't mold. This is still a very real concern for modern insulation.
Hi gymkhanadog. If moisture and mould is a concern/issue, we advise underlay's that are totally closed cell such as www.carbuilders.com.au/water-proof-carpet-underlay-stage-2~728
Helpful vid..
Cheers mate 🤙
Would be nice to see some links to these products, or others like them in the description
Hi Singh. You can find all of our products here www.carbuilders.com.au/ 😎👍
you have links to the mas loaded vylne you used here?
Sorry, I have just gone and added all the links to the products 👍
They look like great products! Can you get the 1st. (rubber) layer off if you choose to later? Also, is there ever a chance of water getting under it and eventually rusting the metal under it? Just making sure because I would be putting this on my 34 year old Dodge D150 truck with only 26 thousand original miles on it. It's like new so I am extremely careful what I do to it.
The reason for my concern is the aftermarket rustproofing that is installed the most in the northern part of the country is a "rubberized" coating that is sprayed into the doors and the undercarriage and in time it pulls back enough to let in water and salt and the moisture stays there and just rots everything right through! I have seen frames of new trucks so rotten after less than 10 years old because of this issue that they are totalled!
Hi thoms_here I understand your concern. Yes, you can remove the butyl rubber once applied. It takes some elbow grease but can be done. We replace it once a year in our demonstration half car that we take to shows (to freshen up the display as it get constantly touched and rubbed). Unlike the old bitumen deadener, which would crack and allow moisture underneath it butyl doesn't harden and actually becomes tackier in warmer weather. Butyl is used in plumbing applications and you can see in another video we did that it creates a water proof barrier even when in a vertical application. ruclips.net/video/tNnmyFO8lcw/видео.html Good luck with the Dodge, sound like a nice ride 😎👍
Hi, where can I get in Auckland New Zealand?
Hi Alifeleti Latu, sorry we are currently looking to set up with a retailer in NZ and hope to be there in the coming months.
Can you provide links for the materials used? I can't find the acoustic liner?
www.carbuilders.com.au/acoustic-liner-carpet-underlay-stage-2~725
Underlays are under 'Products' then 'Interior' 😎👍
I second that one, especially when the jute or crap the big 3 put in your new cars are just rust attracters soaking up wetness so as to make sure your investment is dead at 10 years old.
I've got Vauxhall/Opel Mokka (Buick Encore). I get that cost/weight cutting made this car an empty tin with thin metal all-around. Do you think that a few patches of this rubber sheet would help with overall road noise (and vibration throughout the thin sheets of steel around)?
Hi Mieczyslaw. Yes, you will achieve results by adding Stage 1 pads to single sheet metal panels and the Stage 2 Foams or Mass Loaded Vinyls will act to reduce external road noise. Good luck
Hello. I'd like to use the black sound deadener directly above and around my mufflers under the car, to reduce the noise entering in the boot.
I understand this is an internal liner, but is it possible to use externally?
Hi Duane. As you have stated, this product is designed for interior use and we would recommend using it on the inside rather than outside. An issue underneath the car might also be the surface being dirty and greasy. If you are able to clean the exterior surface thoroughly (test with masking tape once clean- if that sticks and deadener will) then it can be placed in the area.
@@carbuilders1 Thank you for your reply. I’ll clean the area thoroughly.
who makes that thick mat? nice video also what's the mm thickness
Hi ALL KNOWING BILLY. This is a Car Builders Mass Noise Liner. You can see them here www.carbuilders.com.au/interior/ 👍
Hey this stuff looks like a great option, just wondering how it would be removed down the track if ever needed?
Are there any issues with the mats peeling off in very warm weather?
Hi Kool Range. The Sound Deadener? The butyl will get tackier in extreme temps. It won't peel off but in vertical positions such as door skins we like border it with our aluminium foil tape to ensure their is no chance of slip. www.carbuilders.com.au/aluminium-foil-tape
Curious to hear how crucial the added Stage 2 foam layers are to reducing road noise? I’m in the process of applying the stage 1 butyl and now a bit concerned that I’ll have to also buy and install some MLV or something of that nature to reap the full benefits of it?
I'm getting this. The road noise on coarse chipseal in Australia is so bad.
Can we fill the door pannels with acrylic or cotton instead of damping ?
Hi Bhagwan. Cotton can't replace dampening sheet as a Stage 1 product as the deadener is designed to connect directly to the sheet metal and control structure born and panel resonance. Stage 2 is addressing noise by filtering, something to consider is packaging in this stage.